I have noticed allot of people who report on threads, the models such as RX-V1500 and RX-2500, excessive heat, the 24v internal fan does not come on, the unit resets after 2 or 3 seconds...
Not all of those at the sametime of course.
It is amazing that many of these people actually state inside the thread that they cant even unhook ALL the various RCA's and speaker wires from their own AVR system...whatever it maybe... because they are afraid, because they paid some "professional" to do the initial install.
I have experience using car amps inside the house. I love them. They get power from a switched DC source , mainly Gel batteries that are fed by a solar array. So actually allot of components
in my system run isolated and on DC. Its really cool. However my old 1987..Dobly Prologic "Processor" unit (yeah i was rocking that), My prized possession.. had truely had it. After what ...25 years.
Previously in that unit, for academic purposes... i re soldered the timing crystal (cold solder joint)...fixed it for a few years. Resoldered a cap (cold solder joint)...fixed it a few years.....
Today, i got a Yamaha RX-V2500 for $40 bucks. It works too. However the tall tale signs it requires repair very soon...are there. So far the only warning sign is a buzzing sound from the unit itself.
It is infact NOT coming from speakers, but the unit itself. I also noticed it gets very hot where the transformer is located. the most heat is from the transformer.
Now i know what you are thinking... No, it is not the transformer. That transformer is connected to a small board directly in front of it, mounted vertical. This board is filled with capacitors... 16v at 10,000uf..
and 25v at 3300uf. More importantly, TWO (2) RECTIFIERS.... and guess what... one of those rectifiers is getting really **** HOT.... and the circuit board around where the rectifier is soldered to, has changed color to indicate allot of heat comes from that rectifier.... Now an identical rectifier sits in a seemlessly identical spot with no heat damage on the board...no evidence of heat at all and feels only luke warm to touch after operating the unit for 30 minutes, while the other is so hot it would burn you, and did so to my finger.
The whole power setup..... makes me feel that yamaha knowingly and intentionally built the power portion to fail. Owners do not ever suspect that it is defective design, they always suspect they did it, or that the problem is only localized to their own unit, like some bad part. NO.. this is very much incorrect way to go about this. Yamaha put sensor wires.... basically monitoring wires on everything in there....you may not notice, but if any of the power portion does fail,, the unit has at least the ability to know, what it does with that info i do not know yet. However, assuming that this company built the unit correctly, is absurd. I tested the caps... and they are not just caps OK.... the affected Rectifier has the following caps across its DC output +/and/- terminals , they are 2 caps soldered on parallel rails...followed by the PLUS rail hooking to the negative side of another set of 2 caps... so this is "SERIES" now... ok... parallel for 2 ... series ...and parallel for another 2.... so ....then there is another set
of caps grouped lower on the board... which is parallel on the rails of the 2nd set... so 3 Sets....
this mix and match capacitor ....parallel and series and parallel again..... is amazing to track down. It has 2 tracers which goto a pair of wires called (B+) (B-). This circuit must be 24 Volts DC.
I will post my results soon, but anyone who has no fan working,... and it heats up on one side...we will be in for a surprise when i tell you the REAL problem of this unit.
Not like you dont already know, many of you i have read have sent your unit back ... to get the "caps" replaced. Yeah, that board.... right there.... is what they are working on, and they simply desolder
1 bad cap....not all of them, but 1, and replace it. Worthless. I wish more consumers knew how to solder and how to do things. I am out in Portland, Oregon.
I wanted to write this because, people seem to assume, that the overall design is correct and that they are in good hands with any company, and that they assume the company they deal with is honest.
Just like cancer and products.... it takes time... 30 years from now... is hard to prove that happy meal toy you ate as a kid...lol didnt have lead in it.
Same as the capacitors...i know where they come from... and they are not always the best quality. Caps fail when the company purposely chooses a 3rd world factory to produce
electronic parts for them the way they want it... Now here is speculation... we dont know. However it makes sense, that since they are corrupted anyway out in that 3rd world country....
that quality and accountability etc is not an issue. clearly. But most importantly, Yamaha knows exactly what parts fail.
They did it so, rich people are sort of well,,...forced to upgrade. When the caps go out, or short the rectifier, or whatever... Its a time bomb.
They make more money this way, considering the price of these units. Basically the caps are designed to last with a spec that put its out of its useful service life of what yamaha determines to be.
I hope this helps a fellow electronics oriented person repair some "RICH" guys garbage....high end equipment, which part ?
At least, I took the thing apart... have not broken it yet.. and are making an effort to tell everyone who may find this, that yes..you can fix this, and it is not complex.
They even arranged the little board...to swing out and has enough wire so that presumably a serviceman can replace the caps or rectifier, whichever dies...probably both die...considering
what i see in there.... first the caps go...then it forces the rectifier to die...? plausible. We will see...
Even if i dont find the problem...the fact this is happening to others ...means that overall they intentionally designed a product to crap out on you. By using "timed" components.
ANOTHER THOUGHT : For anyone out there...... use external amps.... Use them and hack this or other units... take the whole garbage .. rectified transformer power supply out of there...
and solder underpowered supplies in there. Maybe use the surround only...definitely not the mains... I wonder if tiny switching power supplies can be clean enough these days... to mimic
the original stock power circuits.... Just feed the rectifiers DC.... it will pass the DC through i promiss. Tests are your friend. make this 100W oven .... into a 10 or 20 watt "switcher/processor" and move the power amps over to "REAL AMPS". Saves power...and wont put load on your AC unit in the summer.
We can always think about it....