The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1030, RX-A2030, RX-A3030 and CX-A5000/MX-A5000 Thread - Page 120 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3571 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Peteybob35 View Post
Does anyone have any experience with the refurbs from accessories for less? Looking at the a2030
Yep, purchased a few things from them and had good experiences. A pair of Boston Acoustics VS 336 and a CX-A5000 in my main theater setup, also just grabbed a Denon AVR-4520CI for my secondary setup, no problems with any of these. Even returned a Marantz processor (7005, I think) I purchased from them after a couple of weeks due to a HW issue and the return was quick and simple.

Probably couldn't swing a few things I have w/out going refurb route, great bang for the buck.
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post #3572 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 07:03 AM
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Hi guys, I'm having a problem with my brand new RX-A2030 and wonder if someone here can help me before I contact Yamaha technical service.


The RX-A2030 is replacing a >10 year-old receiver that was working fine (B&K components). I have a "whole house" sound set up with individual volume knobs in each room. The sound is distributed by all speakers (16 total) by a wall amplifier set in the utility room where the furnace is. This was installed over 10 years ago when the house was built by the previous owner, the business that set it is no longer around. Behind the cabinet where the receiver sits, there is a wall plate with red/white line in jacks which is used to connect the RX-A2030 "zone out" audio to the utility room amp via RCA cables.


So, for some reason, the volume with the RX-A2030 zone out is very low compared to previous old receiver. I don' think it's lack of power because if I connect my iPod directly to the "line in" jacks behind the receiver, I get loud volume just like it was with the old receiver. Even when I raise the volume to maximum in the zone of the RX-A2030 and in the room where the speaker is, it is still very low. I tried change the cables thinking I may have a bad RCA but problem persists. I tried change the connection from zone 2 to zone 3 out or even one of the other line-outs, still low volume.


Another problem I'm having is that the volume of the 2 subs are very low compared to the old receiver.


Any idea of what the problem is please?
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post #3573 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CleveKing View Post
...So, for some reason, the volume with the RX-A2030 zone out is very low compared to previous old receiver. I don' think it's lack of power because if I connect my iPod directly to the "line in" jacks behind the receiver, I get loud volume just like it was with the old receiver. Even when I raise the volume to maximum in the zone of the RX-A2030 and in the room where the speaker is, it is still very low. I tried change the cables thinking I may have a bad RCA but problem persists. I tried change the connection from zone 2 to zone 3 out or even one of the other line-outs, still low volume.

Another problem I'm having is that the volume of the 2 subs are very low compared to the old receiver.

Not all receivers produce the same voltage on their pre-outs, so you may simply have to turn up the volume downstream. For the subs, turn up their own gain (volume) knobs. For the zone 2 out, you can maximize it by setting the zone 2 volume to "fixed" so that you only have to use the volume control in each room and not the volume on the 2030 (it's in the Setup menu under Multi-zone).

The thing you might not have noticed yet is that digital (e.g. HDMI or optical) sources connected to the 2030 won't play in other zones, but you can solve this with Party Mode.
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post #3574 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
Not all receivers produce the same voltage on their pre-outs, so you may simply have to turn up the volume downstream. For the subs, turn up their own gain (volume) knobs. For the zone 2 out, you can maximize it by setting the zone 2 volume to "fixed" so that you only have to use the volume control in each room and not the volume on the 2030 (it's in the Setup menu under Multi-zone).

The thing you might not have noticed yet is that digital (e.g. HDMI or optical) sources connected to the 2030 won't play in other zones, but you can solve this with Party Mode.
Thanks. So when you say "turn up the volume upstream" do you mean turn the volume up for that specific zone (in this case zone 2) in the remote, right? I have it set maximum and the sound in the house is still low even when I raise to maximum volume in the rooms.


For the subs, think you meant to turn up their amplifier volume, right? It's in the maximum too, but till not good.


Is this a matter of the receiver not having enough voltage? Can this be fixed? I wonder if I return this and get the Pioneer SC-75 9.2-Channel instead.

Last edited by CleveKing; 03-11-2015 at 11:16 AM.
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post #3575 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 01:04 PM
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After discussing this with a local sound provider, it looks like this may be a problem of the Yamaha receiver not being suitable to my system.


I'm going to call Yamaha today and see if they can solve this, if not, I'm returning it and getting the Pioneer SC-75. I got some encouraging news that the Pioneer may solve the problem.
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post #3576 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CleveKing View Post
After discussing this with a local sound provider, it looks like this may be a problem of the Yamaha receiver not being suitable to my system.

If your (old) system is expecting much higher voltages then many modern receivers will likely have the same issue (don't know about the Pioneer).

For the subs not playing with stereo sources, the classic problem is that the main speakers are set as Large instead of Small in the receiver.
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post #3577 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 01:56 PM
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What is more important, output level or impedance?


The Yamaha is actually rated 1V for zone out output while the Pioneer is only 390 mV (0.39V). Seems considerably less.


In the other hand, the Pioneer is rated 2.2 for output impedance while the Yamaha gets 1.2. I'm thinking maybe this is more important?


I can't find the info in the old receiver.
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post #3578 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 03:52 PM
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The voltage is the issue here. And I don't think the 390mV is for the zone pre-out. I couldn't find the value in the Pioneer manual.

BTW what was your old receiver? Maybe the specs will show it had a much higher pre-out voltage.

Last edited by kriktsemaj99; 03-11-2015 at 04:04 PM.
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post #3579 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
The voltage is the issue here. And I don't think the 390mV is for the zone pre-out. I couldn't find the value in the Pioneer manual.

BTW what was your old receiver? Maybe the specs will show it had a much higher pre-out voltage.
It is a B&K Components AVR101, don't even know these folks still make receivers but it surely worked.

I found the manual, very poor detail. It does not say specifically the specs for each analog outputs, it just says:

Maximum output level: 9V. If that is the voltage delivered in the pre-amp out, that surely explains it! Hard to tell but I can try measure it with my multimeter? Not sure if it's sensitive to detect that little voltage.

The pioneer does not have a specific zone out regions like the Yamaha, they just say you can create different zones by connecting one of the pre-amps to an amplifier. The only audio output voltage they mentioned was 390mV in the specs, so I'm assuming that is for all pre-amp outputs, no?

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post #3580 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 06:02 PM
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Just remember it will come by FedEx and you'll need to sign for it, that was only bummer ended up calling them after 2 attempts and went and picked it up but I will say I have fully enjoyed all of its features it's a fun experience

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post #3581 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 07:30 PM
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Just remember it will come by FedEx and you'll need to sign for it, that was only bummer ended up calling them after 2 attempts and went and picked it up but I will say I have fully enjoyed all of its features it's a fun experience
I got super lucky in that regard. Our general contractor who renovated our house (completed 1.5 years ago and haven't really seen much since) just happened to be on the premises for about an hour resolving a small issue related to some work from that project, and that just happened to be the time FedEx showed up with my A2030 so he signed for it.

Even without the sub working yet, the sound from the other 5 speakers is noticeably better. Also seems to run a good deal cooler, which is good since it's in an enclosed cabinet with a lot of other gear.
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post #3582 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CleveKing View Post
...
Maximum output level: 9V. If that is the voltage delivered in the pre-amp out, that surely explains it!

Apart from the individual volume controls in each room, does the amplifier in the utility room have a gain control? If not, maybe that amp can be replaced with one that's better matched to the Yamaha output level.
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post #3583 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 08:03 PM
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I called Yamaha technical support. They are blaming on the house amp, too many speakers connected to a single amp receiving just one line in. They think going with the Pioneer won't resolve the issue and I highly suspect they are right. I think changing the amplifier is probably going to cost a fortune, this is no regular set up, that thing was powering 16 speakers! I may just hold on to what I have for now and get a couple of regional audio providers to take a look and see what they suggest. Thanks!
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post #3584 of 3599 Old 03-11-2015, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tomd51 View Post
Yep, purchased a few things from them and had good experiences. A pair of Boston Acoustics VS 336 and a CX-A5000 in my main theater setup, also just grabbed a Denon AVR-4520CI for my secondary setup, no problems with any of these. Even returned a Marantz processor (7005, I think) I purchased from them after a couple of weeks due to a HW issue and the return was quick and simple.

Probably couldn't swing a few things I have w/out going refurb route, great bang for the buck.
Thanks for the replies, now that I'm looking at accessories4less I can't decide which receiver would be best for my setup. I've only got 5.1 since my couch is against the back wall, but I would want to have the option for more channels in the future. My fronts are RBH SX-4T's with a matching center, 4ohm's, looking for the best bang for the buck and coming from an Onkyo tx-sr806 that had the Onkyo issues. I fixed the capacitors and thought I was good to go, but the power went out the other day and when it came back on the receiver was putting horrible noises throughout the speakers. I don't know if that helps at all, but any suggestions would be welcome.

Stu
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post #3585 of 3599 Old 03-12-2015, 03:40 AM
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Afraid it's not going to happen.
Or is it going to be a new version of this pre-amp?

Andy.
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post #3586 of 3599 Old 03-12-2015, 06:13 AM
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^ I don't think there's been an official announcement, but likely a new version will be out late this year (two years after the A5000).
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post #3587 of 3599 Old 03-18-2015, 08:12 PM
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Much of my two channel audio set up is 35 years old and was good stuff in its day. My biggest investment by far is not hardware but media, my NAS holds some 13,000+ movies and 25,000+ songs. Ideally in the future the NAS would be my only media source.

Equipment lists:

NAS - WD EX4 16TB
13,000+ mp4 video files
25,000+ songs - high quality mp3 files

LR Stereo Rack
Belkin R5C350 Surge Protector
Nakamichi MB2S CD Player
AIWA Cassette Deck
Carver TX-11 FM Tuner
Yamaha C4 Preamp
DBX 20/20 RTA
Yamaha M2 Power Amp
Dahlquist DQ-10 Speakers

LR Video Equipment
OPPO BDP-103
Samsung UN65H7165
Yamaha SRT-1000 speaker

All of the stereo rack units are in excellent working condition, for those of you who may not know audio equipment of the era:

The Yamaha M2 power amp is rated at 250W RMS (8 ohms) .003% THD or 350W RMS (4 ohms) .005% THD. The preamp pre dates CDs an while it is in excellent condition, and extremely clean it is lacks one essential feature I desperately want, a remote control.

I still love my Dahlquist DQ-10 speakers, speakers have been updated and completely rebuilt with all new drivers. They image well and still do everything I need. But I still wonder if a pair of Magnepan 1.7 speakers are not in my near future. I'm not a surround sound kind of guy, at least not for audio. My preferred "sound stage" consists of a 2.1 speaker system.

I'm not too impressed with the Yamaha sound plate, I'll turn it on for movies or football, by why turn it on for the news? Both the Samsung TV and the Oppo 103 pull files from the NAS just fine.

Without spending a dime I could use the Oppo to DAC and route L&R RCA to my Yamaha pre amp and listen to music via the DQ10 speakers. I could use the 65" Samsung as my android to select songs. To be honest I haven't tried it yet.

I got a bug up my rump (not a bright idea, just a bug) last week, I saw that Big River Retail had a Yamaha RX-V675 for almost half off and I wondered if I could not use that to replace my out dated but very clean Yamaha pre amp. The short answer is no, I could use a zone 2 as a pre out but I would have no volume control.

That got me thinking, instead of a half fast "patch" perhaps I should do this well?

I made a few phone calls and a helpful Yamaha dealer mentioned the RX-Ax040 series which he is willing to sell at very attractive prices. I am partial to Yamaha build quality, longevity and sound quality. The RX-A2040 is very attractive price -performance wise but if I buy pre-amps only every 35 years I might swing the RX-A3040 which may be over kill for my needs but a nice way to complement the old and clean 2 channel Yamaha M2 power amp. Then thinking a little further, I don't need an integrated amp, I just need a new pre-amp. . .

So I found this topic and read a little about the CX-A5000 was very interested. I am particularly attracted to its robust DAC abilities and while honestly I don't need 11.1 having more features than I need is OK. I may in time make use of some of them.

If I am running a single amp 2.1 system I do not see the loss of Dolby Atmos as a issue. What I do see as a problem is the whole system is dependent on (what I read is) a second rate external Yamaha wireless network adaptor? If that is true it may make the RX-A3040 a better choice than the CX-A5000 for me?

It is obvious to me that I do not stay as current on AV as most other folks here so I am inviting comments and feedback.

Thank you

Timothy Wright

All I really want to do is reach through my speaker and touch Jeff Beck when he is playing "People Get Ready" is that asking too much?
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post #3588 of 3599 Old 03-18-2015, 10:32 PM
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PCM output

Trying to pair the Sennheiser RS 175 with a Yamaha RX-A1030. I want to connect to the RS 175's digital optical input. Tried connecting from the A1030's digital optical output...no sound. Connected from the A1030's hdmi secondary output, ran that to an hdmi to spdif converter, then to the RS 175's digital optical input...still no sound. The RS 175's manual states that it can only handle PCM audio. I think that either of the connections that I made should have worked, so I think my problem may be that I can't seem to figure out how to output the audio of the A1030 in PCM format. Any advice?
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post #3589 of 3599 Old 03-19-2015, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothy Wright View Post

...

So I found this topic and read a little about the CX-A5000 was very interested. I am particularly attracted to its robust DAC abilities and while honestly I don't need 11.1 having more features than I need is OK. I may in time make use of some of them.

If I am running a single amp 2.1 system I do not see the loss of Dolby Atmos as a issue. What I do see as a problem is the whole system is dependent on (what I read is) a second rate external Yamaha wireless network adaptor? If that is true it may make the RX-A3040 a better choice than the CX-A5000 for me?

...
Timothy,

I don't understand the comment about the "Yamaha wireless network adaptor" in the above, as it appears to be related to the CX-A5000. Since the CX-A5000 doesn't provide wireless support directly (it does, of course, support Ethernet) you lost me there. Also, since you appear to want to stick with your 2.1 channels, I feel that the CX-A5000 may be way over-kill. I run 11.2 channels in my setup, and love it but wouldn't choose the CX-A5000 for a 2.1 system (way too much of the unit that you won't be able to take advantage of).
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post #3590 of 3599 Old 03-19-2015, 06:36 AM
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Timothy,

I don't understand the comment about the "Yamaha wireless network adaptor" in the above, as it appears to be related to the CX-A5000. Since the CX-A5000 doesn't provide wireless support directly (it does, of course, support Ethernet) you lost me there. Also, since you appear to want to stick with your 2.1 channels, I feel that the CX-A5000 may be way over-kill. I run 11.2 channels in my setup, and love it but wouldn't choose the CX-A5000 for a 2.1 system (way too much of the unit that you won't be able to take advantage of).
I am not a fan of the wireless yamaha adapter. but if you want a remote control and don't need internet then it's no problem if you want to use the built in streaming features it's better to have a wired connection at home we have wired Ethernet to each room at my parents we used a Ethernet over power line to get networking to the tv/avr.
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post #3591 of 3599 Old 03-19-2015, 07:21 AM
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I am not a fan of the wireless yamaha adapter. but if you want a remote control and don't need internet then it's no problem if you want to use the built in streaming features it's better to have a wired connection at home we have wired Ethernet to each room at my parents we used a Ethernet over power line to get networking to the tv/avr.
Ah, I wasn't even thinking of the optional wireless adapter from Yamaha. I never even considered it as I always go wired when possible, and when not, I use a separate wireless bridge at the location. I then plug my devices into either it or a Ethernet switch connected to it (when there's more devices than the 4 ports in the bridges that I use).
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Ah, I wasn't even thinking of the optional wireless adapter from Yamaha. I never even considered it as I always go wired when possible, and when not, I use a separate wireless bridge at the location. I then plug my devices into either it or a Ethernet switch connected to it (when there's more devices than the 4 ports in the bridges that I use).
Yeah I am the same way but i got one free and tried to use it for my parents house.
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post #3593 of 3599 Old 03-21-2015, 07:19 PM
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First I would like to thank everyone who responded with their assistance.

It is possible but not easy to run Cat5 or Cat6 to my living room, I run all Gigabit Ethernet at home. Just thinking, it might be best to run wires in my attic not my basement? The Samsung TV has a (g/n) fast wireless built in card, the Oppo less so.

One simple solution is just to store all the music on a 2TB USB drive but I read that solution can create its own acoustic problems?

The real network speed issue is pulling up very large directories, and loading a blu-ray movie may take 10 or 15 seconds. Faster is almost always better.

Home theater is far less critical for me than the audiophile side. To be honest I am a bit out of my element, I'm not a huge fan of passing trends like 3D movies, or quadrophenia. I am more the old fashion 1970's straight wire with clean gain generation.

I am open to recommendations for how to do this smarter. That is why I am here.

I have enjoyed a very busy this week re ripping several thousand CD's to FLAC format and playing particular attention to getting all the meta data correct. I may have ordered 300 more CDs this week just rounding out my collection.

I suspect my biggest investment is in the music and movies not the hardware. I could just use my OPPO Blue ray player to pipe into my existing pre-amp, and I haven't even tried that yet. My Oppo is mid range 103 not a 103 Drabee or a 105 Darbee. I don't honestly know how well I'll like it. I think Monday I'll call Oppo and ask if I may trade up?

The very last speakers I listened to before I purchased my Dahlquist DQ10s were a nice set of Magnepan and I'd like to listen to them again. One's musical preferences can mature in 35 years and I read mostly good things about the "maggies" except they still lack the impact in the woofer range, but to a lesser degree. My local audiophile shop sold their last set of MG 1.7 not that long ago and is expecting another set in a few weeks. I can wait that long.

Maybe one reason I ended up looking at the Yamaha CX-a5000 is because I'd be replacing one top of the line Yamaha pre amp with another? It seems awkward to have the stereo rack right beside the TV and they exchange no information?

In the same way that I was very meticulous about my turntables 35 years ago, I want to take some care in selecting my DAC. It needs to be able to stream flawlessly from my NAS. When I read reviews of top of the line DACs that are just a few years old almost all of them would not meet my current needs. In particular they are not network ready. In contrast Yamaha is a name I trust and respect. I've had very outstanding luck with top-of-the-line Yamaha stuff in my past. If my last Yamaha pre-amp lasted 35 years in another 35 years I may be deaf of dead at age 96 (or more likely both). So if it out lives me and gives me great sound and trouble free service, that would not be over kill.

If in my case the music starts with the FLAC files on my NAS then in theory there is a chain of custody, from one device to another. Every device can preserve the sound quality, but none can actually improve it. (ignoring compressed Music Enhancer, over sampling, YPAO and DSP for now) So it is like a legal chain of custody and in my case it comes down to who can you trust with your music?

> I use a separate wireless bridge at the location. I then plug my devices into either it or a Ethernet switch connected to it (when there's more devices than the 4 ports in the bridges that I use).

Now that I think about it I do have 2-3 linksys wireless routers laying about unused. Or I could just spring for a new ASUS router, I like then very much.

> Yeah I am the same way but I got one free and tried to use it for my parents house.

How did that work out for you? It was the Yamaha wireless adapter? I have several really nice fast USB wireless network adaptors in inventory any of which I suspect would do a better job than the outdated Yamaha optional accessory, if they worked?

Doing a little research the YWA-10 is IEEE 802.11b/g/n compatible.
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post #3594 of 3599 Old 03-22-2015, 02:00 PM
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Hey is anyone else running the 3030 with a Behringer iNuke? I just hooked up mine 3000DSP to my newly built subs and the gain and all the other adjustments are pretty much maxed out to achieve desirable listening, granted my subs are low efficient on the dB scale but just wondered if some one may chime in and give me some pointers. Also had the dreaded ground loop that I read about to after hooking up the iNuke and isolated it to my antenna to receiver and since Yamaha doesn't ground this beast I did what another person on here did and ran a ground wire from the Phono ground to the plug ground this fixed it after eliminating my antenna. Kudos!! to who did that and documented it here! Anyway any feed back on the settings would be great.

2-RTi-10's 1-CSi5 2-TSi400 6-r150's 1-Velodyne DPS-12
Yamaha RX-A3030 and Emotiva XPA-200
Samsung UN65F7100
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post #3595 of 3599 Old 03-24-2015, 09:50 PM
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I just ordered a 3030 from accessory's for less, I also ordered the wireless adapter to stream music, I am new at this, I am looking for hints and help on how to do this, thanks
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post #3596 of 3599 Old 03-25-2015, 03:35 AM
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I just ordered a 3030 from accessory's for less, I also ordered the wireless adapter to stream music, I am new at this, I am looking for hints and help on how to do this, thanks
Hardwire if at all possible.
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post #3597 of 3599 Old Today, 01:19 PM
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I posted before about my system and my plans and I want to thank all who helped. My Oppo DBP-105D just arrived by FedEx so I am one step closer to the finished line. I think one must choose whether they one a home theater or an audiophile listening room. One can do either or both but I think one can't do both well in the same room. I will have an audiophile listening room and a limited home theater.

The irony is that the ONLY pre amp Yamaha sells is the CX-A5000, and I'll be replacing my older Yamaha C4 pre amp with the CX-A5000. The funny part is in that process of accumulating a new system my stereo rack with much of it's contents becomes obsolete. What I will keep will fit on the shelves underneath my TV. I have 2 glass shelves one 7.5" tall, the other 8" tall. Each shelf is 58" wide or wide enough for (3) 17" components.

One reason I think a preamp is a better choice than an integrated AV amp is because new features come out every year and I don't see upgrading both pre and power amps every year and that is exactly what an integrated amp is. Today I started planning the layout of the components on the shelves and I noticed that 2030, and 3030 are all to tall to fit on an 8" shelf. In a way that decides the issue for me. That is a hell of a way to select a $3,000 pre amp, the other stuff will not fit on my shelf.

I have been working with a local home theater shop and I am taken back by their hostility toward all Japanese electronics. My father survived Iwo Jima so I'm not so much pro Japanese as I am sick of poor quality American made automobiles. Thirty five years ago I started preferring Japanese motor cycles to American motor cycles of the same era. In my opinion not everything Japanese is automatically better, nor automatically worse.

Now I am told by people I like and respect that any non Japanese amp will always sound better than a Yamaha because the Yamaha are always "too bright", "too harsh", "too shrill", and have "too much detail." I guess I just don't know how to process this; I am not trying to start a brawl but I'll invite kind and poised comments on the topic.


Thank you for listening,

Timothy
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post #3598 of 3599 Old Today, 01:19 PM
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I posted before about my system and my plans and I want to thank all who helped. My Oppo DBP-105D just arrived by FedEx so I am one step closer to the finished line. I think one must choose whether they one a home theater or an audiophile listening room. One can do either or both but I think one can't do both well in the same room. I will have an audiophile listening room and a limited home theater.

The irony is that the ONLY pre amp Yamaha sells is the CX-A5000, and I'll be replacing my older Yamaha C4 pre amp with the CX-A5000. The funny part is in that process of accumulating a new system my stereo rack with much of it's contents becomes obsolete. What I will keep will fit on the shelves underneath my TV. I have 2 glass shelves one 7.5" tall, the other 8" tall. Each shelf is 58" wide or wide enough for (3) 17" components.

One reason I think a preamp is a better choice than an integrated AV amp is because new features come out every year and I don't see upgrading both pre and power amps every year and that is exactly what an integrated amp is. Today I started planning the layout of the components on the shelves and I noticed that 2030, and 3030 are all to tall to fit on an 8" shelf. In a way that decides the issue for me. That is a hell of a way to select a $3,000 pre amp, the other stuff will not fit on my shelf.

I have been working with a local home theater shop and I am taken back by their hostility toward all Japanese electronics. My father survived Iwo Jima so I'm not so much pro Japanese as I am sick of poor quality American made automobiles. Thirty five years ago I started preferring Japanese motor cycles to American motor cycles of the same era. In my opinion not everything Japanese is automatically better, nor automatically worse.

Now I am told by people I like and respect that any non Japanese amp will always sound better than a Yamaha because the Yamaha are always "too bright", "too harsh", "too shrill", and have "too much detail." I guess I just don't know how to process this; I am not trying to start a brawl but I'll invite kind and poised comments on the topic.


Thank you for listening,

Timothy
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post #3599 of 3599 Unread Today, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Timothy Wright View Post
Now I am told by people I like and respect that any non Japanese amp will always sound better than a Yamaha because the Yamaha are always "too bright", "too harsh", "too shrill", and have "too much detail." I guess I just don't know how to process this; I am not trying to start a brawl but I'll invite kind and poised comments on the topic.
I worried a ton about selecting my receiver, and demoed tons of different units. I finally narrowed it down to the Sony STR-DA5300ES and the Yamaha RX-A2000. The Sony was impressive. Right out of the box it had the pressure to drive any Hollywood explosion through the back wall of my living room. The Yamaha was exactly as you described: very bright, a little harsh, shrill what have you, and the low end was absent. But it is the comment about "too much detail" that really hits the nail on the head. Listening to music, it was night and day between the Sony and the Yamaha. The Sony sounded amazing by itself, but side by side with the Yamaha, it sounded muddy. I knew that the Yamaha would be great for music to hear the detail of the instruments, but the Sony would excel at movies. I decided on the Yamaha because I assumed I could get the low end heavier with the right subs, etc, but I knew it would be impossible to get more detail out of the Sony. Thanks to some folks on this thread, I learned how to change the EQ on the computer, and was able to match the sound I was looking for with little effort. Now I think the Yamaha does perform equally well for music and movies, so I am really happy with my choice.
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