The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1030, RX-A2030, RX-A3030 and CX-A5000/MX-A5000 Thread - Page 133 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3961 of 3988 Old 06-13-2016, 07:33 PM
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This is how the web UI looks like in radio mode.


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post #3962 of 3988 Old 06-22-2016, 08:36 PM
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Just started noticing my CX-A5000 will lose network connection (stop playing Pandora) after a couple songs.

I think this problem started after the newest firmware update. Anyone else having similar issues?
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post #3963 of 3988 Old 06-22-2016, 10:18 PM
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If you power off/on the mains to soft reset the unit, does it solve the problem?


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post #3964 of 3988 Old 06-23-2016, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamzu View Post
Just started noticing my CX-A5000 will lose network connection (stop playing Pandora) after a couple songs.

I think this problem started after the newest firmware update. Anyone else having similar issues?
Its happened with every Yamaha Ive owned. Sometimes the next update will fix it.
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post #3965 of 3988 Old 06-24-2016, 06:00 AM
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9 channel stereo level

I have a 2050 and when selecting 9 channel stereo for the DSP, the volume level is considerably lower than the other DSPs. Has anyone else experienced this or know why? Thanks.
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post #3966 of 3988 Old 07-09-2016, 07:38 PM
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Zone 2 issue - Need help!!!

I have Yamaha 2030 AVR and I am using Zone 2 with Sennheiser wireless headphones for night time viewing when kids are sleeping. I just bought LG OLED65B6P and using its netflix/amazon app to stream. I finally figured out HDMI ARC and got it working in the main zone but I can't get it to send the damn audio to Zone 2. I don't want to give up on LG OLED apps as that's the only way to stream HDR and I can't get the audio to work with zone 2/headphones.

Is there a way to make this work? Any suggestions? Will optical audio out from TV work with Zone 2?
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post #3967 of 3988 Old 07-09-2016, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
Zone 2 issue - Need help!!!

I have Yamaha 2030 AVR and I am using Zone 2 with Sennheiser wireless headphones for night time viewing when kids are sleeping. I just bought LG OLED65B6P and using its netflix/amazon app to stream. I finally figured out HDMI ARC and got it working in the main zone but I can't get it to send the damn audio to Zone 2. I don't want to give up on LG OLED apps as that's the only way to stream HDR and I can't get the audio to work with zone 2/headphones.

Is there a way to make this work? Any suggestions? Will optical audio out from TV work with Zone 2?
I could be wrong but I don't think you can send any digital audio source to Zone 2.

I would love to know how you got ARC working with your 65b6. I just purchased a 55b and have a 1030 and can't get ARC to work for the life of me. I resorted to using an optical cable
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post #3968 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenthan View Post
I could be wrong but I don't think you can send any digital audio source to Zone 2.

I would love to know how you got ARC working with your 65b6. I just purchased a 55b and have a 1030 and can't get ARC to work for the life of me. I resorted to using an optical cable
I have 2030 and mine worked after I changed my HDMI cable. I was having no success despite changing all the settings initially. Have you tried changing your HDMI cable to the one that is High speed with documented ARC support? Also, make sure you reboot both after changing cable. I am not sure if it makes any difference but thats how I did it.
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post #3969 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 04:51 AM
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HDMI 1.4 supports ARC. Need to Ensure right cable used.


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post #3970 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 05:00 AM
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Can you even buy an HDMI cable that doesnt support ARC anymore?
Maybe if you pick one up at the grocery store..
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post #3971 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
I have 2030 and mine worked after I changed my HDMI cable. I was having no success despite changing all the settings initially. Have you tried changing your HDMI cable to the one that is High speed with documented ARC support? Also, make sure you reboot both after changing cable. I am not sure if it makes any difference but thats how I did it.
Thanks for the idea.

I did try 3 different hdmi cables with one of them specifically saying its was high speed on the actual cable(the other 2 had no markings so I don't know if they are high speed or not, both pretty old)

At one point I had control kind of working but no audio. I say kind of because the only thing that worked was the 1030 would switch inputs when the TV should have been outputting sound. The ARC never worked.

Maybe I'll pick up a hdmi cable so I'm 100% sure it is compatible just to rule cabling out.


On a side note I figured out that the xx30 series can't pass HDR or Dolby vision though so that's a bit disappointing. I liked having everything ran through the AVR. Can't really justify an upgrade at this point. Guess I'll have to do some rewiring once I have some new sources to hook up.

Thanks again

Last edited by Lenthan; 07-10-2016 at 06:15 AM.
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post #3972 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Lenthan View Post
Maybe I'll pick up hdmi cable I'm 100% sure is compatible just to rule cabling out.
Any cable at Monoprice. Worth $5 just to test.
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post #3973 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenthan View Post
Thanks for the idea.

I did try 3 different hdmi cables with one of them specifically saying its was high speed on the actual cable(the other 2 had no markings so I don't know if they are high speed or not, both pretty old)

At one point I had control kind of working but no audio. I say kind of because the only thing that worked was the 1030 would switch inputs when the TV should have been outputting sound. The ARC never worked.
Thanks again


After reading few other posts, I went back and played with the settings again and I was able to get ARC to work with my original HDMI cable. Its 3 yrs old so likely 1.4 and not 2.0.

First, you need to connect HDMI ARC input on TV to HDMI out 1 on Yamaha AVR and make sure the HDMI direction is right if you are using an active HDMI cable.
Than here are the settings I am using

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...539449&thumb=1
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...539441&thumb=1
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...539433&thumb=1


Once you have this adjusted, restart everything and it should work.
When you start netflix or any other TV app, AVR will switch to Audio 1. It should automatically do so because if you have to change it manually than something is not right and it wont work.



Having said this, I think you should stick with optical cable. HDMI-CEC is nothing but 'pain in the butt'. Every time I turned the system on it would automatically switch to my BD player. I turned off the HDMI CEC on Samsung BD player and now it automatically switches to Roku input no matter what activity I start. Roku 3 doesn't even have HDMI CEC but as it is always on (it keeps sending that stupid Roku screensaver signal so TV and AVR senses it as on). There is no way to turn this off on Roku or selectively turn on/off HDMI CEC on AVR HDMI ports. The only option is to buy a HDMI cable which specifically doesn't support CEC (there are few in the market). Hence I am actually thinking of going to optical route too and turn off HDMI CEC on all components as I am tired of these glitches.

Also, I figured out the Zone 2 issue. Digital signal can be sent to zone 2 only if it is PCM and 2 channel as per manual. I will have to play with it little more to see if I can get it working.


Hope this helps.
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post #3974 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
HDMI-CEC is nothing but 'pain in the butt'.
Agreed.
I have a Logitech Harmony remote that takes care of all that for me.
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post #3975 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
After reading few other posts, I went back and played with the settings again and I was able to get ARC to work with my original HDMI cable. Its 3 yrs old so likely 1.4 and not 2.0.

First, you need to connect HDMI ARC input on TV to HDMI out 1 on Yamaha AVR and make sure the HDMI direction is right if you are using an active HDMI cable.
Than here are the settings I am using

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...539449&thumb=1
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...539441&thumb=1
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...539433&thumb=1


Once you have this adjusted, restart everything and it should work.
When you start netflix or any other TV app, AVR will switch to Audio 1. It should automatically do so because if you have to change it manually than something is not right and it wont work.



Having said this, I think you should stick with optical cable. HDMI-CEC is nothing but 'pain in the butt'. Every time I turned the system on it would automatically switch to my BD player. I turned off the HDMI CEC on Samsung BD player and now it automatically switches to Roku input no matter what activity I start. Roku 3 doesn't even have HDMI CEC but as it is always on (it keeps sending that stupid Roku screensaver signal so TV and AVR senses it as on). There is no way to turn this off on Roku or selectively turn on/off HDMI CEC on AVR HDMI ports. The only option is to buy a HDMI cable which specifically doesn't support CEC (there are few in the market). Hence I am actually thinking of going to optical route too and turn off HDMI CEC on all components as I am tired of these glitches.

Also, I figured out the Zone 2 issue. Digital signal can be sent to zone 2 only if it is PCM and 2 channel as per manual. I will have to play with it little more to see if I can get it working.


Hope this helps.
Thank you for that reply. I may play around with it to see if it will work(at one point I was getting the control to work as the input would change but no sound). I don't know if the optical will carry all of the signal that the HDMI could and even if it can't my receiver probably cant decode any signal that optical can't carry. Realistically I simply want the audio return to the AVR I have a harmony remote and don't need or want any of the control or power functions. Seems like there should be an option to turn off all control but sometimes logic does not factor into these standards.

Thanks again

Last edited by Lenthan; 07-10-2016 at 07:02 PM.
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post #3976 of 3988 Old 07-10-2016, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenthan View Post
Thank you for that reply. I may play around with it to see if it will work(at one point I was getting the control to work as the input would change but no sound). I don't know if the optical will carry all of the signal that the HDMI could and even if it can't my receiver probably cant decode any signal that optical can't carry. Realistically I simply want the audio return to the AVR I have a harmony remote and don't need or want any of the control or power functions. Seems like there should be an option to turn off all control but sometimes logic does not factor into these standards.

Thanks again
Optical will support anything your tvs built in apps can throw at it.
What it will not support is lossless codecs (DTS HD MA, Dolby True HD) but your apps dont output that anyway.
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post #3977 of 3988 Old 07-24-2016, 04:32 PM
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Is anyone familiar with the inner workings of the A1030?

I recently was given one that I think is in need of repair. The owner said that the audio was working, but would drop out for several minutes and then return. After hooking it up myself, I was unable to get any audio out of the unit unless I specifically used the "Pure Direct" mode. I attempted to update the firmware a total of 4 times, twice over a network connection and twice via USB. I received errors 0040 and 0010. I believe there is something wrong with the inner workings, and since I got this unit for free, I'm trying to avoid paying a fortune to have it fixed.

Does anyone here have any experience with this type of problem?
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post #3978 of 3988 Old 07-25-2016, 08:51 PM
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I am interested in feedback from folks who own the MX-A5000 amp. How satisfied are you with it? I'm interested in 11 channels of amplification for an Atmos upgrade and I'm trying to decide between the Yamaha and other options, like a combo of Emotiva XPA Gen3 and Outlaw Model 5000. The costs are comparable, but which is the better option for driving a 7.2.4 Atmos setup?
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post #3979 of 3988 Old 07-25-2016, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by csj2116 View Post
Noob question: I have the 2030 and I am trying to get more bass out of my front left & right speakers. Where in the settings can I adjust this?

Thanks
Hit the "Option" button on the remote. Bass and treble adjustments adjust there using the cursor.

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post #3980 of 3988 Old 07-28-2016, 04:08 PM
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Firmware Update 1.86 is available says it fixes network issues and connectivity with the app,etc.

Spoiler!
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Firmware Update 1.86 is available says it fixes network issues and connectivity with the app,etc.
Which model?
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post #3982 of 3988 Old 07-30-2016, 07:37 AM
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Which model?
My CX-5000 just did the update so it's included


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post #3983 of 3988 Old 09-10-2016, 10:31 PM
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I have a question regarding the RX-A1030 zone functionality. I'm currently using the "Basic" Power Amp Assign option with the 5 core channels (FL, FR, C, SL, SR) running off an external amp, and front presence speakers running off of the unit. There are no surround back channels.

Now, I have a spare 2-channel amp that I wanted to use for Zone 2 in another room. I'm not too clear on what the manual is saying, but I believe it says that if I use Zone 2 "7ch +1Zone" Power Amp Assign option, even with an external amp, I will lose my front presence speakers. In another words, the unit doesn't support both Zone 2 and front presence speakers even if I use the Zone 2 pre-out to an external amp. Is that correct?
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post #3984 of 3988 Old 09-11-2016, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by red_5ive View Post
I have a question regarding the RX-A1030 zone functionality. I'm currently using the "Basic" Power Amp Assign option with the 5 core channels (FL, FR, C, SL, SR) running off an external amp, and front presence speakers running off of the unit. There are no surround back channels.

Now, I have a spare 2-channel amp that I wanted to use for Zone 2 in another room. I'm not too clear on what the manual is saying, but I believe it says that if I use Zone 2 "7ch +1Zone" Power Amp Assign option, even with an external amp, I will lose my front presence speakers. In another words, the unit doesn't support both Zone 2 and front presence speakers even if I use the Zone 2 pre-out to an external amp. Is that correct?
Since you are not powering Zone 2 with the RX-A1030 you do not have to change the Power Amp Assign setting. Simply attach some audio cables from the Zone 2 output to your external amp. Switch on Zone 2, pick an input, and enjoy some Stereo sound. That is what I take away from the manual.

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post #3985 of 3988 Old 09-12-2016, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by bguzman View Post
Since you are not powering Zone 2 with the RX-A1030 you do not have to change the Power Amp Assign setting. Simply attach some audio cables from the Zone 2 output to your external amp. Switch on Zone 2, pick an input, and enjoy some Stereo sound. That is what I take away from the manual.
Cool, thanks. So does that mean then that I can still use the presence speakers still powered by the 1030?

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post #3986 of 3988 Old 09-12-2016, 05:19 PM
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Cool, thanks. So does that mean then that I can still use the presence speakers still powered by the 1030?
That's the way I read it.

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post #3987 of 3988 Old 09-14-2016, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bguzman View Post
That's the way I read it.
I finally got around to reconnecting the presence speakers to the 1030 and trying it along with the zone 2 pre-out to the external amp. Seems to be working fine. The wife is in her studio listening to music (zone 2) while she paints, and I'm watching a movie with the presence speakers going. I guess my concern is historically when you use the pre-outs on an AVR, you don't want to keep speakers connected to the corresponding AVR speaker terminals. I realize this situation is different as the "extra/zone2/presence" channels on the unit don't serve the exact same purpose as a basic pre-out, but based on that it had me concerned nonetheless. Anyway, thanks for the help.

On another note, I didn't think I'd miss the presence speakers too much, but once I plugged them back in after having them disconnected the last few days it's like wow! The dynamics and sound field depth are back. I was never big on the presence speakers over the decade or so that I owned pre-Aventage Yamaha gear (I even had 2 pre-Aventage flagships), but since getting my first Aventage unit back in 2012 (RX-A3010), I've been a believer of the DSPs and YPAO.

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post #3988 of 3988 Unread 09-15-2016, 05:18 AM
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You're welcome, glad it worked out.

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Yamaha Aventage Rxa 1030 Receiver , Yamaha Rxa2030bl Aventage Home Theater Receiver , Yamaha Rxa3030bl Aventage Home Theater Receiver
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