The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1030, RX-A2030, RX-A3030 and CX-A5000/MX-A5000 Thread - Page 82 - AVS Forum
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post #2431 of 3041 Old 05-12-2014, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

That's interesting. The screenshots I saw of the PEQ on the mains didn't make it seem that coarse. So it's 1/3 octave for those as well?

Yes.
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post #2432 of 3041 Old 05-12-2014, 06:02 PM
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So far I have used only receivers, but always wanted to have separates. So when the owner of the electronics shop I deal with told me about the CXA 5000 and the MX A 5000, both featured with eleven channels I got pretty happy. Read some reviews and pulled the trigger on these two beasts. But reading this thread I came to a halt. My home set up is 11.1 and right now I use an Onkyio 5010. It means I have frontal speakers, rear speakers and wide speakers. The last ones are my problem,  because  the Yamaha CXA 5000 don't use wides on its set up. In my lay out the wides are not located on the center of the room, they are more close to the front speakers. and I have two sofas from each side separating them from the back surounds. I don't know how I could utilize them. Is there a means I could use them , in my limited space, contributing effectively to the DSP surround field? As a noob, forgive me if the question is stupid, but could I use my Onkyo or the Denon 4520 as processors with the MX A 5000 as the amplifier. If possible, would it be a good match? Thanks in advance from the help you could give me with the situation presented.

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post #2433 of 3041 Old 05-12-2014, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ftboomer View Post

You were asking about 4 ohm speakers, my ML's ARE 4 ohm and work great with with my 1030, therefore they should work great for any 4 ohm speaker you might use.

Check the SPECS page here http://www.martinlogan.com/products/aeriusi


Thanks for the response. I misinterpreted your previous post regarding the 8 ohm setting as your MLs were 8ohm. Not so. I will only be driving the 3 fronts, Jamo 600D as LCRs in the 3000 cubic foot room. It looks like no big problem for the MX-A5000. Still, I will ensure good cooling, and as a bedroom setup, won't be blowing the doors down with it.
Jamo D600 LCR:
System Type 3 Way closed
Impedance 4
Tweeter (mm/in) 25 mm / 1" DTT
Woofer (mm/in) 2 x 165 mm / 6½"
Frequency Response (Hz, +/-3dB) 80 20.000 Hz
Power Handling (Watts Long/Short Term) 200W / 300W
Sensitivity (dB, 2.8V/1m) 89
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post #2434 of 3041 Old 05-12-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Yes.

And the consensus seems to be, even among picky users, that that is okay for the mains, but a picky person would probably add a minidsp to better find tune the sub?
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post #2435 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by waltiesantos View Post

So far I have used only receivers, but always wanted to have separates. So when the owner of the electronics shop I deal with told me about the CXA 5000 and the MX A 5000, both featured with eleven channels I got pretty happy. Read some reviews and pulled the trigger on these two beasts. But reading this thread I came to a halt. My home set up is 11.1 and right now I use an Onkyio 5010. It means I have frontal speakers, rear speakers and wide speakers. The last ones are my problem,  because  the Yamaha CXA 5000 don't use wides on its set up. In my lay out the wides are not located on the center of the room, they are more close to the front speakers. and I have two sofas from each side separating them from the back surounds. I don't know how I could utilize them. Is there a means I could use them , in my limited space, contributing effectively to the DSP surround field? As a noob, forgive me if the question is stupid, but could I use my Onkyo or the Denon 4520 as processors with the MX A 5000 as the amplifier. If possible, would it be a good match? Thanks in advance from the help you could give me with the situation presented.
If you do front heights and front wides you would be better to get the Marantz AV8801. In my room I can't use wides or surround backs but could have four presence speakers for a 9.x.

Main Kef: Reference 205/2 & 202/2c, Surrounds: Kef XQ40, Velodyne Optimum 12, Integra DHC 80.3, Oppo BDP-103, Bryston 4Bsst2, Parasound Halo A31. Second B&W: 685 (3), CCM618, Def Tech Powerfield 1500, Onkyo TX-NR1008, DBP 2010, Samsung BD-C7900, Zone 2 Klipsch AW650. Sitting still CCM616, Kef...
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post #2436 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

And the consensus seems to be, even among picky users, that that is okay for the mains, but a picky person would probably add a minidsp to better find tune the sub?

I don't know how much of a consensus there is, but many people only worry about precise filtering on the sub channel. MiniDSP is a low-cost solution but it doesn't set the filters automatically (so you need more equipment and some expertise to make measurements). There are other automatic systems such as the Anti-Mode 8033.
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post #2437 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

I don't know how much of a consensus there is, but many people only worry about precise filtering on the sub channel. MiniDSP is a low-cost solution but it doesn't set the filters automatically (so you need more equipment and some expertise to make measurements). There are other automatic systems such as the Anti-Mode 8033.

Thanks. Then if I don't need extra power, and run a pretty traditional 6.1 setup (okay, right now 5.1, and the ".1" is actually two subs getting the same signal) and plan to use an external device for sub EQ, I don't give up much by going with the 1030, as opposed to a higher end model, near as I can tell.
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post #2438 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 08:08 AM
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Seeing the 10.2 configuration of the CXA 5000, instead the wide channels Yamaha (correct me If I'm wrong) uses rear presence speakers. Keeping my two speakers, now presence ones, as much as fast from my front towers will sound peculiar? Isn't there any means to rescue the two speakers and maintain the 10.1 set up I have now?

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post #2439 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 02:30 PM
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Couldn't wait any longer...I'm in the CX-A5000 club!

I found a deal on an open box unit from an authorized dealer. I can't wait to do a comparison with my RX-A2000, which I've been using as a pre-pro for the past 3 to 4 years.
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post #2440 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by goldielox View Post

Couldn't wait any longer...I'm in the CX-A5000 club!

I found a deal on an open box unit from an authorized dealer. I can't wait to do a comparison with my RX-A2000, which I've been using as a pre-pro for the past 3 to 4 years.
Congratulations, what speakers will you be driving?

Paradigm v.5 speakers: Studio 100s - Fronts, Studio CC-690 - Center , ADP-590s - Surround.
Pardigm V.4 speakers: Studio 20s - Rear Surround, Sub12
Pre/Pro - Yamaha CX-A5000, AMP - Yamaha MX-A5000
TV - Samsung UNDF658000
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post #2441 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 02:50 PM
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Congratulations, what speakers will you be driving?

B&W CM 10's (front), CMC2 (center), CM5's (sides), CMW 650's (back). I'm using the fronts, center and sides on "large," my backs are set to small. I'm also using dual HSU, ULS-15 subwoofers.
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post #2442 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 02:55 PM
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I'd be really interested to hear you feedback on the two subwoofers with the CX-A5000. I have a single paradim sub12, and I'm thinking of adding another. Where do you have yours placed? Front and rear, or both in the front?

Paradigm v.5 speakers: Studio 100s - Fronts, Studio CC-690 - Center , ADP-590s - Surround.
Pardigm V.4 speakers: Studio 20s - Rear Surround, Sub12
Pre/Pro - Yamaha CX-A5000, AMP - Yamaha MX-A5000
TV - Samsung UNDF658000
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post #2443 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 03:17 PM
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I'd be really interested to hear you feedback on the two subwoofers with the CX-A5000. I have a single paradim sub12, and I'm thinking of adding another. Where do you have yours placed? Front and rear, or both in the front?

Both in the front, but one sits near the front left speaker and the other sits just to the right of the main listening area. Two subs are great, but I've had some difficulty setting them up with my current receiver (RX-A2000)....I tried setting them automatically using YPAO, but it set them too low. When I balance them independently (with a sound level meter) using the .1 and .2, and run them accordingly, they sound too boomy!

So, I set the volume of each sub (independently), then using a "Y" splitter and a sound level meter, I connected both subs to the .1 jack using a "Y" connector. With both subs connected to the .1 jack (and playing concurrently) I adjusted the sub output on the receiver to match the volume of my main speakers. It seems to sound best this way!
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post #2444 of 3041 Old 05-13-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by goldielox View Post

Couldn't wait any longer...I'm in the CX-A5000 club!

I found a deal on an open box unit from an authorized dealer. I can't wait to do a comparison with my RX-A2000, which I've been using as a pre-pro for the past 3 to 4 years.

Congrats man!! I think you'll really like it I went from a 3010 to the 5000 and couldn't be happier.

Yamaha CX-A5000, ATI AT 2007 Amp (7X200W), ATI AT 2004 Amp (4X200W)
Klipsch RF 63's - Main, RB 61's - Front heights, RC-62 - Center, RS-62's - Surround, RS-52's - Rear Surround
2 Rythmik DS-1510 DIY Subwoofers (With PEQ600XLR3 Amp) each connected with Antimode 8033S-II
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post #2445 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 03:09 AM
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Congrats man!! I think you'll really like it I went from a 3010 to the 5000 and couldn't be happier.

Thanks smitty 8451. I've been reading your posts and it looks like you've had yours for quite a few months already. You even started with a newer and larger (3010) model than I am, so hopefully I too will be impressed!

Can I ask, did you find it necessary to raise the sub volume after calibration? I plan to merely use the YPAO settings "as is." I've been reading all the external equalization discussion and don't plan to go down that road, because most of it is over my head! I will probably continue to use five speakers in the full mode, two speakers (back) as small, and use the sub output jacks for my two subwoofers. Since my amp is very close to my preamp, I'm going to continue using my "unbalanced" blue jean cable 1meter connectors.
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post #2446 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by goldielox View Post

Thanks smitty 8451. I've been reading your posts and it looks like you've had yours for quite a few months already. You even started with a newer and larger (3010) model than I am, so hopefully I too will be impressed!

Can I ask, did you find it necessary to raise the sub volume after calibration? I plan to merely use the YPAO settings "as is." I've been reading all the external equalization discussion and don't plan to go down that road, because most of it is over my head! I will probably continue to use five speakers in the full mode, two speakers (back) as small, and use the sub output jacks for my two subwoofers. Since my amp is very close to my preamp, I'm going to continue using my "unbalanced" blue jean cable 1meter connectors.

Goldielox

The subs for me were the hardest part of my integration. Due to an unconventional room layout, just using YAPO to equalize the subs did not work the best for my scenario. I tried doing connections staight from the 5000 to the subs using both sub outputs but was not very thirlled with the result. I tried moving the subs, raising the trim on the 5000 and then the volume (gain) on the subs themselves and just could not quit get the sound I was after. So I invested in a Antimode 8033s-II unit and the results were excellent. This unit is about as simple a sub EQ as you can get, you put it between the output on the 5000 and the input on your sub, connect the microphone (its included) and run the calibration on the Antimode. After thats done then you run the YPAO setup. Again this is due to a weird room layout, but if I had a normal layout I do believe the YPAO would do pretty good on its own. From your description it's not the sub bass your missing but the mid bass as I base this off your post saying your subs either have very little output or they sound muddy and setting your other speakers to full size (aka LARGE) makes everything sound better. Here are some suggestions I may add and steps I took to finally get the sound I was after;

1. Run YPAO, this way all the speakers you have connected will be identifed
2. Set all speakers to small with the crossover set at 80hz for all speakers
3. Run YPAO again, but set it to do a single measurement and have your volume on your subs set at it's mid position
4. Once YPAO is done look at the results
5. Pay special attention to the sub levels, if YPAO sets the trim to the + side i.e. +1.5 then go to each sub in turn and raise the volume on the subs themselves just a little bit
6. Re-run YPAO with the mic at the same spot, look at the results, you should see the trim results for the subs go down on the 5000. The goal is to get YPAO to set the sub trim as close to 0.0 as possible so you want to keep adjusting/running YPAO until you get as close as you can.
7. Get earplugs, seriously, then go into the setup menu and find test tone, turn the Yamaha up to 0 on the volume control (but I would start at -30 and work my way down as to not damage your speakers)
8..Turn on the test tone and with a SPL meter in a fixed position (close to were you setup the YPAO mic) and turn the volume up to 0 slowly.
9. when the subs are getting the test signal write down what the SPL level was, now check the SPL for each speaker and adjust them to match the SPL you get from the sub using the trim feature on the Yamaha for each speaker.
10. Now you would want to play some music your familiar with and slightly lower or raise the sub trim on the 5000 only, so it fits your taste.
11. At this point if it still sounds like you have no bass, change the crossover on your main speakers to 70hz and listen. Slowly lower that crossover until it sounds good to you. If you reach 40HZ and it sounds good then just make those speakers LARGE in the Yamaha settings
12. Last but not least you may have to do the "Sub Crawl" to locate a better place for your subs as you may have a room nule that can't be adjusted.

Now this is how I tweeked my system for music and once I was done I saved the speaker settings as speaker pattern2. I then watched a blue ray movie and if the bass was to heavy lowered the trim on the yamaha and then saved that speaker pattern as speaker pattern1 as I found that the yamaha treats LFE channels and derived sub levels from music differently. Also there are a lot of other settings on the Yamaha that can affect the sound so look at Adaptive DRC, Compressed music enhancer, High-Res mode, DAC Digital Filter, and the different PEQ settings (I have mine set to THROUGH) by turning them on and off and finding what sounds best to you makes a difference.

My advice if you can afford it is to check out the antimode solution, once I installed it and ran its calibration (keep the Yamaha off during this) and performed the above steps the bass was amazing. Its is very simple to connect and use and once done does not need to be messed with plus its about the size of a 3.5 PC hard drive. If you do decide to go this route, buy one unit and connect it to only one sub output on the yamaha and then use a Y cable to connect both subs to it.

I used XLR cable on my system to connect my amps only because I had them on hand, like the fact they cannot come loose from there connections and since I run Klipsch speakers which are very sensitive wanted to keep the noise floor (hiss) to a minimum. If I would not have had them I would have went your route with the short cables from monoprice as you did.

Best of luck and congrats on the purchase and if you have any questions let me know.

Yamaha CX-A5000, ATI AT 2007 Amp (7X200W), ATI AT 2004 Amp (4X200W)
Klipsch RF 63's - Main, RB 61's - Front heights, RC-62 - Center, RS-62's - Surround, RS-52's - Rear Surround
2 Rythmik DS-1510 DIY Subwoofers (With PEQ600XLR3 Amp) each connected with Antimode 8033S-II
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post #2447 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 08:26 AM
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I think if someone takes the time to do it properly everyone would say the subs are the hardest part of integration.

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post #2448 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by smitty8451 View Post



My advice if you can afford it is to check out the antimode solution, once I installed it and ran its calibration (keep the Yamaha off during this) and performed the above steps the bass was amazing. Its is very simple to connect and use and once done does not need to be messed with plus its about the size of a 3.5 PC hard drive. If you do decide to go this route, buy one unit and connect it to only one sub output on the yamaha and then use a Y cable to connect both subs to it.

This is interesting. I'm reading in another thread about using two subs, and making sure to run them off of different outputs, in order to get distance etc right for each one. And then using TWO anti-modes.

Sounds like you had success without going down that route?
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post #2449 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

This is interesting. I'm reading in another thread about using two subs, and making sure to run them off of different outputs, in order to get distance etc right for each one. And then using TWO anti-modes.

Sounds like you had success without going down that route?

I actually have two Antimode 8033S-II and tried them in the following ways with the following results;

2 Antimode units with each connected to dedicated sub output on Yamaha, subs connected via RCA cable to Antimode. Each Antimode calibration ran individually
- This was a good setup but due to my room setup and the inability to move the subs the results were OK but not to my taste YPAO did get distances for each sub within 1'

2 Antimode units with each connected to dedicated sub output on Yamaha, subs connected via XLR Cable to Antimode
- Local stereo shop manufactured RCA to XLR balanced cable per instructions from manufacturer, this increased sub output by 6db and made for a deeper bass response. This was a better sound than 1 and I have no idea why. YPAO got distance on the money

1 Antimode unit with connection to sub output 1 on Yamaha, subs connected via RCA to XLR adapter then ran to XLR Y cable then out to subs via XLR
- This setup, and I still can't understand why, absolutely was a game changer. Bass was more dramatic and accurate, louder and YPAO set the sub distances dead on.

All-in-all just experiment, you cant really go wrong by using 2 units or 1 unit with a Y splitter either via RCA or XLR (you must buy or manufature an RCA to XLR adapter per there website for XLR). I have also seen people do it both ways and I think the room and setup will determine which works best. You just have to remember when integrating an Antimode into any system to:

1. Run Antimode calibration (Receiver/Pre-pro ect. OFF)
2. Run YPAO/MCAC/Audysee (Antimode ON)
3. Check speaker SPL levels (use SPL Meter)

Yamaha CX-A5000, ATI AT 2007 Amp (7X200W), ATI AT 2004 Amp (4X200W)
Klipsch RF 63's - Main, RB 61's - Front heights, RC-62 - Center, RS-62's - Surround, RS-52's - Rear Surround
2 Rythmik DS-1510 DIY Subwoofers (With PEQ600XLR3 Amp) each connected with Antimode 8033S-II
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post #2450 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 09:14 AM
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Thanks for sharing that info.

Mono bass is usually what works best with a multisub set up -- for canceling room modes -- with proper placement. So it's not totally surprising that you got the best results that way.
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post #2451 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 12:36 PM
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All of this discussion regarding subwoofers has got me thinking. My system consists of the following speakers:

4 Definitive Technology BP-8080STs, front left/right & surround left/right
1 Definitive Technology CS-8060HD, center
2 NHT VR-3s, rear surrounds
4 NHT Classic 2s, front and rear surrounds
2 Definitive Technology Trinity Signatures, front left/right subwoofers.

All 5 of my main speakers (the Def Techs) have built in powered subwoofers. The BP-8080STs have a rated response down to 18Hz so I have them set to large (I currently have the center speaker set to small). The two Trinity Signatures have a rated response to 10Hz. Consequently there's quite a bit of low frequency potential there.

However, I doubt that this makes it any easier to attempt to tune/optimize. I don't have any devices such as the Antimode 8033S-II to calibrate low frequency response. And, given the number of low frequency drivers, I'm not sure if it would help to use them on the subwoofers and not on the main speakers.

Note that I don't know if I have a problem or not. I am currently pleased/satisfied with bass performance in my room (mine is a pretty standard room layout), but also I'm not sure if I'm simply missing an even better experience! biggrin.gif
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post #2452 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty8451 View Post

Goldielox

The subs for me were the hardest part of my integration. Due to an unconventional room layout, just using YAPO to equalize the subs did not work the best for my scenario. I tried doing connections staight from the 5000 to the subs using both sub outputs but was not very thirlled with the result. I tried moving the subs, raising the trim on the 5000 and then the volume (gain) on the subs themselves and just could not quit get the sound I was after. So I invested in a Antimode 8033s-II unit and the results were excellent. This unit is about as simple a sub EQ as you can get, you put it between the output on the 5000 and the input on your sub, connect the microphone (its included) and run the calibration on the Antimode. After thats done then you run the YPAO setup. Again this is due to a weird room layout, but if I had a normal layout I do believe the YPAO would do pretty good on its own. From your description it's not the sub bass your missing but the mid bass as I base this off your post saying your subs either have very little output or they sound muddy and setting your other speakers to full size (aka LARGE) makes everything sound better. Here are some suggestions I may add and steps I took to finally get the sound I was after;

1. Run YPAO, this way all the speakers you have connected will be identifed
2. Set all speakers to small with the crossover set at 80hz for all speakers
3. Run YPAO again, but set it to do a single measurement and have your volume on your subs set at it's mid position
4. Once YPAO is done look at the results
5. Pay special attention to the sub levels, if YPAO sets the trim to the + side i.e. +1.5 then go to each sub in turn and raise the volume on the subs themselves just a little bit
6. Re-run YPAO with the mic at the same spot, look at the results, you should see the trim results for the subs go down on the 5000. The goal is to get YPAO to set the sub trim as close to 0.0 as possible so you want to keep adjusting/running YPAO until you get as close as you can.
7. Get earplugs, seriously, then go into the setup menu and find test tone, turn the Yamaha up to 0 on the volume control (but I would start at -30 and work my way down as to not damage your speakers)
8..Turn on the test tone and with a SPL meter in a fixed position (close to were you setup the YPAO mic) and turn the volume up to 0 slowly.
9. when the subs are getting the test signal write down what the SPL level was, now check the SPL for each speaker and adjust them to match the SPL you get from the sub using the trim feature on the Yamaha for each speaker.
10. Now you would want to play some music your familiar with and slightly lower or raise the sub trim on the 5000 only, so it fits your taste.
11. At this point if it still sounds like you have no bass, change the crossover on your main speakers to 70hz and listen. Slowly lower that crossover until it sounds good to you. If you reach 40HZ and it sounds good then just make those speakers LARGE in the Yamaha settings
12. Last but not least you may have to do the "Sub Crawl" to locate a better place for your subs as you may have a room nule that can't be adjusted.

Now this is how I tweeked my system for music and once I was done I saved the speaker settings as speaker pattern2. I then watched a blue ray movie and if the bass was to heavy lowered the trim on the yamaha and then saved that speaker pattern as speaker pattern1 as I found that the yamaha treats LFE channels and derived sub levels from music differently. Also there are a lot of other settings on the Yamaha that can affect the sound so look at Adaptive DRC, Compressed music enhancer, High-Res mode, DAC Digital Filter, and the different PEQ settings (I have mine set to THROUGH) by turning them on and off and finding what sounds best to you makes a difference.

My advice if you can afford it is to check out the antimode solution, once I installed it and ran its calibration (keep the Yamaha off during this) and performed the above steps the bass was amazing. Its is very simple to connect and use and once done does not need to be messed with plus its about the size of a 3.5 PC hard drive. If you do decide to go this route, buy one unit and connect it to only one sub output on the yamaha and then use a Y cable to connect both subs to it.

I used XLR cable on my system to connect my amps only because I had them on hand, like the fact they cannot come loose from there connections and since I run Klipsch speakers which are very sensitive wanted to keep the noise floor (hiss) to a minimum. If I would not have had them I would have went your route with the short cables from monoprice as you did.

Best of luck and congrats on the purchase and if you have any questions let me know.
Thanks!
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post #2453 of 3041 Old 05-14-2014, 10:17 PM
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Folks - with the 3030, would it be possible to have a 7.1 system (LCR SR SL with front prescence), and, using a separate power amp for the front L and R, still run zone 2 and 3 in stereo? I know you can do it with the avr-4520 but need to have this function on any receiver I get.
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post #2454 of 3041 Old 05-15-2014, 11:43 AM
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RX-A840 and RX-A740 "in the wild...?"

http://www.wwstereo.com/Yamaha/RXA840BL

http://www.wwstereo.com/Yamaha/RXA740BL


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post #2455 of 3041 Old 05-15-2014, 12:53 PM
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Both links say "Temporarily Unavailable".

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
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post #2456 of 3041 Old 05-15-2014, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floatingkiwi View Post

Folks - with the 3030, would it be possible to have a 7.1 system (LCR SR SL with front prescence), and, using a separate power amp for the front L and R, still run zone 2 and 3 in stereo? I know you can do it with the avr-4520 but need to have this function on any receiver I get.
No. Zone 2 & 3 share the same outputs as presence. The rear surrounds are dedicated to zone 1.
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post #2457 of 3041 Old 05-15-2014, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Both links say "Temporarily Unavailable".

True, but did I miss a prior press release or is this the first time we have seen the specs?
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post #2458 of 3041 Old 05-15-2014, 07:40 PM
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buger. avr-4520 it is then.
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post #2459 of 3041 Old 05-15-2014, 09:26 PM
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buger. avr-4520 it is then.
Add a cheap ($100) stereo amp for zone 2 and get the main zone presence back. And get the good manual peq on subwoofer & main channels.
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post #2460 of 3041 Old 05-15-2014, 09:45 PM
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I'm trying to minimise boxes and power cables as well. Don't have the rack space. Whats peq?
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Yamaha Aventage Rxa 1030 Receiver , Yamaha Rxa2030bl Aventage Home Theater Receiver , Yamaha Rxa3030bl Aventage Home Theater Receiver
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