The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1030, RX-A2030, RX-A3030 and CX-A5000/MX-A5000 Thread - Page 99 - AVS Forum
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post #2941 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keasley View Post
Question related to the YPAO discussion on this page:

So once I've run YPAO, can I still manually adjust the bass and treble using the tone control or does the bass/treble adjustment over-ride the YPAO settings? So far, I'm happiest with YPAO Flat, but would like it even more with a more bass and a little less bright at the high end.

Also, I'm running just a 2.0 system (yes, I know that's why I don't have quite enough bass) with a pair of Monitor Audio Silver 8 speakers. One of the values I can adjust with YPAO is the crossover, but is this even a factor without a subwoofer? It is currently set at 80hz. Any point of trying 60hz? And, I guess, related question, does manually adjusting things like crossover over-ride the existing YPAO?

thanks.

btw, I have an RX-V1075 that is functionally identical to the A-1030 which is why I'm posting in this thread.
Make sure your L/R are set to large and the cross over should not matter.
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post #2942 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keasley View Post
Question related to the YPAO discussion on this page:

So once I've run YPAO, can I still manually adjust the bass and treble using the tone control or does the bass/treble adjustment over-ride the YPAO settings? So far, I'm happiest with YPAO Flat, but would like it even more with a more bass and a little less bright at the high end.

Also, I'm running just a 2.0 system (yes, I know that's why I don't have quite enough bass) with a pair of Monitor Audio Silver 8 speakers. One of the values I can adjust with YPAO is the crossover, but is this even a factor without a subwoofer? It is currently set at 80hz. Any point of trying 60hz? And, I guess, related question, does manually adjusting things like crossover over-ride the existing YPAO?

thanks.

btw, I have an RX-V1075 that is functionally identical to the A-1030 which is why I'm posting in this thread.
You can also go into the Parametric EQ setting under manual set-up and change flat to Front, Natural, or Through for a different sound. I personally use the Natural as it takes a little edge off of the treble.
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post #2943 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keasley View Post
Question related to the YPAO discussion on this page:

So once I've run YPAO, can I still manually adjust the bass and treble using the tone control or does the bass/treble adjustment over-ride the YPAO settings? So far, I'm happiest with YPAO Flat, but would like it even more with a more bass and a little less bright at the high end.

Also, I'm running just a 2.0 system (yes, I know that's why I don't have quite enough bass) with a pair of Monitor Audio Silver 8 speakers. One of the values I can adjust with YPAO is the crossover, but is this even a factor without a subwoofer? It is currently set at 80hz. Any point of trying 60hz? And, I guess, related question, does manually adjusting things like crossover over-ride the existing YPAO?

thanks.

btw, I have an RX-V1075 that is functionally identical to the A-1030 which is why I'm posting in this thread.
My understanding is that without a sub present everything will go to the main speakers. Crossover frequency should not matter.
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post #2944 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 09:58 AM
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PretzelFisch: they are set to 'large'.

Audiohobby: I have cycled through Flat, Natural and Through and consistently found 'Flat' best. But it's not perfect. What I'd like to do is take the YPAO Flat setting and tweak it a bit with the 'old school' bass and treble adjustment found in the tone control -- if this is possible.

Orcone: yeah, makes sense. I thought maybe crossover would inform the relationship between the midrange and bass drivers within the stereo pair but, honestly, don't have enough background and experience with modern audio gear (and the underlying technology) to know what all the parameters control.

Thanks for your replies guys.

I think maybe the one thing I'm still hoping to find out is if I can build on the the YPAO setting with the bass and treble controls or if YPAO needs to be used as-is (aka: bass and treble controls invalidate the YPAO setting).
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post #2945 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 10:05 AM
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^ You can adjust bass and treble without affecting the YPAO settings.
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post #2946 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
^ You can adjust bass and treble without affecting the YPAO settings.
That's great.

Thanks kriktsemaj99!
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post #2947 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by orcrone View Post
My understanding is that without a sub present everything will go to the main speakers. Crossover frequency should not matter.
Correct
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post #2948 of 2962 Old 07-23-2014, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Kblev View Post
Hi All,
I have the 3030 and I just got a NAS hooked up and all my music files downloaded to it. My patio is zone 2. All my computers in the house recognize the NAS and my Gbox (Andriod TV device) does as well. The Andriod app on my phone does not. It still recognizes my other computers, but not the NAS.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Kblev,

Is your 3030 hardwired to the router? Check the AVR IP address and that you can bring up the setup page via the web browser.

This issue appears to related to networking. You'll need a DLNA server, either on the NAS or PC to "serve up" files from your NAS to all rendering devices connected on your network, by hardwired or wireless. The 3030 is considered a rendering device and needs to be served files to it.

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post #2949 of 2962 Old Yesterday, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ShakeMan View Post
Has anyone had any HDMI handshake issues with the A3030? I installed a new A3020 today, replacing my Onkyo, and I have HDMI issues galore (green screen, corrupted video, no video/sound). I was really impressed by the DSP on a Yamaha receiver I had years ago, and I've heard nothing but praises for the Cinema HD3 on the newest models. This HDMI deal has me gun-shy, however. I'm sending the A3020 back. I'm just trying to decide whether to replace it with another A3020 (maybe I just got a dud?) or change to the A3030 in hopes that a totally different video processor might keep lightning from striking twice. It took a whole day to set everything up, realize it was glitchy, and put the Onkyo back in again. Not fun. Any opinions? And thanks.
I am replying to your post as someone now going through a similar issue with my newly acquired RX-A2030 (Dec 2013). Long story short, HDMI 2 input has failed numerous times. A factory reset brings it back to life perfectly, and it will work with either my Verizon FIOS STB or my Oppo Blu Ray player. For a few days. Every other HDMI input works just fine, regardless of the input source component (FIOS STB or Oppo). Yamaha factory service has no idea how to fix it - I already drove it 50 miles and back while they checked it out. The unit has a self diagnostic in it and apparently there are no 'codes'. It has always had the most recent firmware. Once it loses the ability to sync the signal from the source component, which is always the STB, it simply my HDTV simply displays the default screen saver image (inside of a Yamaha Grand piano). All inputs are set exactly the same regarding video processing and sound. None has failed except HDMI 2. This is my first and last Yahama. My older Pioneer never had any issues. Further, I had two identical FIOS Set Top Boxes. I thought one of them failed, and so Verizon shipped me one, but it was the newer model. At the time I hooked up to the RXA2023, as input HDMI 2, it failed to sync the signal at all. This was in fact the start of things, it seems. I tried that newer box on other HDMI inputs, and NONE would sync that signal. I don't recall if they would even do a pass through. But I didn't pay $$$$ for a pass through. OK, so I moved the newer STB into the bedroom, hooked directly to the HDTV there and it works fine. Hooked the older STB to the RXA2030, and it works with all HDMI inputs, include HDMI 2, when it works. Just before I brought to factory service for them to look at it, I did the firmware update from the end of June. And I hooked up the newer STB to the RXA2030 just to see what might have changed. All HDMI inputs worked better, but still with that newer STB, each one lost the signal, going to a 1 second gray snow screen every minute or so. HDMI 2, as I recall it, didn't work at all at that time. Nice, huh?
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post #2950 of 2962 Old Yesterday, 01:53 PM
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It's odd that only one HDMI input has failed because there's multiple ports connected to a single chip. For all I know now, only one HDMI chip is needed, have no seen a service manual in a long time.

So that implies it's the port electronics which are not working, which seems like an all or nothing thing.

This is likely not your issue, but I have had HDMI stop working due to excess heat. I had to run the AC during the summer or the HDMI on my RX-V2700 stopped working. 4 years ago or longer for the 2700, so perhaps they are more robust.

It's interesting how often HDMI ports seem to be an issue. I guess they have not perfected it, in spite of it being around for quite some time

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #2951 of 2962 Old Today, 06:33 AM
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So, I had basically decided that I was going to get myself an RX-A3030, given that the 3040 is coming out and I expect(ed) that the 3030's would be available on close-out. I'm currently running an RX-A800, but I'm expanding and I want the ability to go to 11.2 in multi-zone configuration(s).

But, now that I've started searching, I am kind of coming up empty in my local area (note, I'm in Canada, so the internet choices are a bit more limited given that the US sites either won't ship to Canada, can't ship to Canada due to warranty restrictions, or if they will it is very expensive).

This morning, I got an email from a dealer I had contacted a few days ago (he is all out of 3030's) saying that the 3040's are ready for shipping. He offered me the same deal on the 3040, that my local dealer offered me on the 3030 about 2 weeks ago. This dealer is about 2 - 2.5 hours drive away.

So, I guess I'm now wondering whether I should just go for the 3040? Based on my research, the 3030 would do everything I need; other than Atmos (which I'm not likely to be using in the near future), what else does the 3040 add?

Even with my "luck" so far, I'm still thinking that there might be a deal to be had on the 3030 somewhere over the next couple of months, or even getting a used one from a serial-upgrader. But, my biggest fear is that there won't be a deal and/or they vanish completely, and then this introductory deal I've been offered on the 3040 will be off the table as well, and I'm stuck waiting another year.

Anybody got the 3040 yet?

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post #2952 of 2962 Old Today, 07:05 AM
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Anybody got the 3040 yet?
I would like to go for the 3040 as well (currently using Z11) but here in France this new model is only available in the end of august
I prefer to go for the 3040 rather than 3030 because the last model seem´s to be upgradable and the price difference is 'only' 300€
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post #2953 of 2962 Old Today, 08:16 AM
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Question re: Sub output on the 3030:

Is sound routed to the sub ONLY if there's a LFE channel, or will all sound below the crossover set for the speakers be routed to the sub?

Thanks all -

Mike
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post #2954 of 2962 Old Today, 09:08 AM
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^ As long as you set your main speakers as Small, bass below the crossover for those channels goes to the sub. If you set them as Large, only LFE goes to the sub.

There's also an Extra Bass setting that routes bass to the sub for speakers set as Large, but setting them as Small is the recommended way to go.
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^ As long as you set your main speakers as Small, bass below the crossover for those channels goes to the sub. If you set them as Large, only LFE goes to the sub.

There's also an Extra Bass setting that routes bass to the sub for speakers set as Large, but setting them as Small is the recommended way to go.
Thanks krik - I've experimented with both settings (small - 80hz crossover/Large with Extra Bass) but my subs still aren't turning on, even when I turn up the volume as high as -32db. This occurs for either my DirecTV receiver or my DVD watching Amazon streaming. Movies (DVD/BluRay) on the DVD player seem to be okay, though. Any other suggestions?
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Originally Posted by mjmcmahon67 View Post
Thanks krik - I've experimented with both settings (small - 80hz crossover/Large with Extra Bass) but my subs still aren't turning on, even when I turn up the volume as high as -32db. This occurs for either my DirecTV receiver or my DVD watching Amazon streaming. Movies (DVD/BluRay) on the DVD player seem to be okay, though. Any other suggestions?

Have you checked the Low-Pass Filter on your sub itself? I believe it should be set to off or thru, etc. depending on the make/model.

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post #2957 of 2962 Old Today, 09:56 AM
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Have you checked the Low-Pass Filter on your sub itself? I believe it should be set to off or thru, etc. depending on the make/model.
AC -

yes - both subs have their low-pass filter set at 120Hz (Max)
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AC -

yes - both subs have their low-pass filter set at 120Hz (Max)

Others might have some additional ideas; the only other thing I can think of is that I recall there is a setting in the speaker setup for the subwoofer on/off. Not sure if this turns itself on if there is a subwoofer detected and/or you run YPAO or if you have to do that yourself.

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post #2959 of 2962 Old Today, 10:04 AM
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I've experimented with both settings (small - 80hz crossover/Large with Extra Bass) but my subs still aren't turning on, even when I turn up the volume as high as -32db. This occurs for either my DirecTV receiver or my DVD watching Amazon streaming. Movies (DVD/BluRay) on the DVD player seem to be okay, though. Any other suggestions?

It could just be a case of not enough signal level to activate the sub's auto-on circuit. -32dB is not very loud, but it also depends how the sub level trim is set. What is the current sub level set to in the receiver? You could turn down the gain knob on the sub and turn up the level trim in the receiver, then the signal to the sub will be higher.

Does the sub eventually turn on when you increase the volume more (-20 or higher)?
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Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post
Others might have some additional ideas; the only other thing I can think of is that I recall there is a setting in the speaker setup for the subwoofer on/off. Not sure if this turns itself on if there is a subwoofer detected and/or you run YPAO or if you have to do that yourself.
I've confirmed that the subs are set to 'On' in the speaker setup - subwoofers are also showing 'On' on the front panel.
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
It could just be a case of not enough signal level to activate the sub's auto-on circuit. -32dB is not very loud, but it also depends how the sub level trim is set. What is the current sub level set to in the receiver? You could turn down the gain knob on the sub and turn up the level trim in the receiver, then the signal to the sub will be higher.

Does the sub eventually turn on when you increase the volume more (-20 or higher)?
I'll have to confirm, but I believe the sub level trim is set at +2.5db. The thing that doesn't make sense is that the subs function just fine when I'm playing a DVD or BluRay - just nothing from streaming or DirecTV. I'll play with the sub level trim when I get home this evening and see what I can figure out.

Thanks guys,

Mike
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post #2962 of 2962 Old Today, 12:33 PM
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I have the 3030 and was wondering what apps (apple and android) that works best with my unit. I have the Yamaha AV controller that works wonderfully with controlling the unit and its zones. I also downloaded Yamaha HT controller and NP controller and not sure what they do yet. And when using android I use the Bubble UPnP but really don't care for its interface. If anybody can find anymore useful Apps please list. I read somewhere there was an app for PEQ to help with calibrating the unit.
OH and just found out for sure from Yamaha level 2 support that the receiver outputs signals down to 10hz and YPAO begins correction at 62hz. And I must say that after running room correction previously with a Denon X4000, which utilizes XT32, it did not correct (at least to me) any better than what YPAO did on the 3030. In fact I felt that with YPAO, or the receiver itself, sounds so much richer and fuller than what the Denon presented and the Denon sounded 10 times better than my Pioneer SC-25 (but I've got to tell you that I could never really figure out MCACC).
Just so things were all fair the front 3 main speakers in all listening tests were run through a B&K AV 5000 (although I really don't know if the Pioneer really benefited much as it is a real powerhouse).
And now running 11.1 is truly spectacular especially with the DSP's that Yamaha uses. I never used any DSP previously and always thought it as gimmicky, but this thing has really turned me around on that and I find it very useful especially for everyday use.
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