The **OFFICIAL** Marantz SR5008, SR6008 and SR7008 AV Receiver Owner's Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 2740 Old 08-31-2013, 10:28 PM
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Yes, but what I meant was nothing from a non hdmi source will pick up and go over hdmi.... Like airplay or Internet radio.... That's what causes me to have to run a separate stereo cable.
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post #272 of 2740 Old 09-01-2013, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklion View Post

Any one using the Marantz MM7055 5-channel Power Amplifier with a 5008? Any significant improvement in volume output aka loudness? Or simply not worth the money?

I have the MM8077, firstly connected to the SR7007 and now to the SR7008. I run 5 channels on the MM8077 (inc FL, C, FR) with the remainder of a 9.1 set up being driven by the AVR. I noticed an appreciable difference when I installed the power amp. The scale, dynamics and soundstage were much improved both with music and movie/tv content. It's a long story why I bought the power amp and was rather skeptical over the improvement it would make, but for me it has been a great buy. I do intend on going the pre-amp/processor route at some point in the future.

With this all being said, I'm wouldn't say that an AVR doesn't have enough power and I would happily run without a power amp. However, it is pretty obvious to me that even if the amps in both components were identical, the fact that 9 channels are being split across 2 systems - inc the power their respective power supplies - means that there will be more power and control on tap to each speaker vs. all channels being driven by a single system.
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post #273 of 2740 Old 09-01-2013, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mothman07 View Post

Yes, but what I meant was nothing from a non hdmi source will pick up and go over hdmi.... Like airplay or Internet radio.... That's what causes me to have to run a separate stereo cable.

Ah, yes correct ... only inputs from HDMI 1-6 can pass through the Zone 2 HDMI out. To get Airplay to Zones 2/3, you must use either the speaker posts or Zone 2/3 pre-outs.

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post #274 of 2740 Old 09-01-2013, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaledii View Post

I have the MM8077, firstly connected to the SR7007 and now to the SR7008. I run 5 channels on the MM8077 (inc FL, C, FR) with the remainder of a 9.1 set up being driven by the AVR. I noticed an appreciable difference when I installed the power amp. The scale, dynamics and soundstage were much improved both with music and movie/tv content. It's a long story why I bought the power amp and was rather skeptical over the improvement it would make, but for me it has been a great buy. I do intend on going the pre-amp/processor route at some point in the future.

With this all being said, I'm wouldn't say that an AVR doesn't have enough power and I would happily run without a power amp. However, it is pretty obvious to me that even if the amps in both components were identical, the fact that 9 channels are being split across 2 systems - inc the power their respective power supplies - means that there will be more power and control on tap to each speaker vs. all channels being driven by a single system.

Did you rerun Audyssey again after connecting the 8077 (recommended) as external amps generally have a higher gain structure. Unless you are comparing using the 8077 vs. the 7008 internal amps at exactly the same SPL, most perceive even a slightly higher db level as "better" audio quality.

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post #275 of 2740 Old 09-01-2013, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Ah, yes correct ... only inputs from HDMI 1-6 can pass through the Zone 2 HDMI out. To get Airplay to Zones 2/3, you must use either the speaker posts or Zone 2/3 pre-outs.
Yes... And in my original post I documented the troubles I was having getting those pre outs to work while using the hdmi out to zone 2 as well...
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post #276 of 2740 Old 09-01-2013, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Did you rerun Audyssey again after connecting the 8077 (recommended) as external amps generally have a higher gain structure. Unless you are comparing using the 8077 vs. the 7008 internal amps at exactly the same SPL, most perceive even a slightly higher db level as "better" audio quality.

Absolutely, yes, every time I make changes to the speaker/amp configuration I re-run the Audyssey calibration.
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post #277 of 2740 Old 09-01-2013, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaledii View Post

I have the MM8077, firstly connected to the SR7007 and now to the SR7008. I run 5 channels on the MM8077 (inc FL, C, FR) with the remainder of a 9.1 set up being driven by the AVR. I noticed an appreciable difference when I installed the power amp. The scale, dynamics and soundstage were much improved both with music and movie/tv content. It's a long story why I bought the power amp and was rather skeptical over the improvement it would make, but for me it has been a great buy. I do intend on going the pre-amp/processor route at some point in the future.

With this all being said, I'm wouldn't say that an AVR doesn't have enough power and I would happily run without a power amp. However, it is pretty obvious to me that even if the amps in both components were identical, the fact that 9 channels are being split across 2 systems - inc the power their respective power supplies - means that there will be more power and control on tap to each speaker vs. all channels being driven by a single system.

Thanks for the feedback! Can't afford the 8807 - my budget can cover only the 7025 or 7055. I don't intend to go pre-pro. Going by your comments, I'm now wondering if I'd not be better served just getting the 7025 to power the fronts (hopefully also improve 2-channel music) and let my 5008 power the center and surrounds.

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post #278 of 2740 Old 09-01-2013, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris0119 View Post

I for one have no experience with pre-pro configurations...but I have spoken with enough folks who do and done enough reading to say without equivocation that jrhooper is correct. External amps are lovely if you 'blast' music on the regular, or have a larger than 25' X 25' room with cathedral ceilings and need the extra juice. If not, and in most circumstances the AVR alone (especially with Marantz as their power ratings seem largely accurate) - the built-in amps should adequately suffice for most listening requirements. Speakers also have to be taken in to account...you can drive the ^&%$ out of your speakers with an external amp but unless they are up to the challenge, the ROI is a slipperly slope and the returns are very diminishing. To that end, if pre-pro is your preferred option than get a dedicated pre-amp & processor - not a traditional AVR receiver. Better circuitry, less 'noise' = cleaner signal.

Thanks! I do blast music on the regular but my listening area is not a large room with cathedral ceilings. No plans to go pre-pro either.

I must admit here that upgraditis and aesthetics are key motivations to get the power amp. I just love matching gear and the 7055 would be lovely in my rack...tongue.gif

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post #279 of 2740 Old 09-02-2013, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bgruner View Post

I just purchased a 7008 and everything seems to be working well except for one thing - I am getting no sound from my subwoofer. It's a legacy Boston Acoustics VR2000 that was working fine with an old Harman/Kardon AVR85 (using the pre-out sub connection)....

Sorry for the delay in following up - I've been away for the weekend. Thank you to Chris and jd for their replies - it was definitely a problem with the sub in that it wasn't turned on.
When I was reassembling the components after I got my new equipment on Friday, I was dealing with the sub against the wall and upside down and my eyes aren't so good anymore either. I assumed that moving the sub's power switch up so that it lit green signified it was turned on. Guess what? - not so much. I was able to locate the original manual for the VR2000 (pretty good, given that it was purchased in 1997 along with all components I was replacing), which revealed my mistake.
Thank you again for the input. Obviously, it has been a long time since my last foray into AV systems, and I promise to read all my manuals a couple of times before posting new questions.
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post #280 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklion View Post

Thanks for the feedback! Can't afford the 8807 - my budget can cover only the 7025 or 7055. I don't intend to go pre-pro. Going by your comments, I'm now wondering if I'd not be better served just getting the 7025 to power the fronts (hopefully also improve 2-channel music) and let my 5008 power the center and surrounds.

IMHO I would expect that the MM7025 and MM7055 perform similarly to the MM8077 (despite the upgraded power supply, copper shielding etc). Indeed, I too had intended on getting the MM7025 to improve music performance. As I said it is a long story why I ended up with the MM8077, but part of the reason was that I ended up moving towards the MM7055 and then I was offered a good price on the M8077 from my dealer, which was too good to refuse for me.
The original thought process to go with the MM7055 was so that I could drive the centre speaker and FH speakers with a 7.1 AVR (which I assumed the SR7008 was going to be before details of the specifications emerged).
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post #281 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kaledii View Post

IMHO I would expect that the MM7025 and MM7055 perform similarly to the MM8077 (despite the upgraded power supply, copper shielding etc). Indeed, I too had intended on getting the MM7025 to improve music performance. As I said it is a long story why I ended up with the MM8077, but part of the reason was that I ended up moving towards the MM7055 and then I was offered a good price on the M8077 from my dealer, which was too good to refuse for me.
The original thought process to go with the MM7055 was so that I could drive the centre speaker and FH speakers with a 7.1 AVR (which I assumed the SR7008 was going to be before details of the specifications emerged).

If you don't mind my asking, what speakers do you have in your set-up?

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post #282 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by blacklion View Post

If you don't mind my asking, what speakers do you have in your set-up?

I run Quad Lite-2 speakers for the front 5 and sub, along with Wharfedale Diamond DFS rear speakers. The latter are bi-pole speakers and in the room I have, which is a small lounge, with the sofa close to the back and side walls, this arrangement works well for me.
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post #283 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 05:14 AM
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I picked up an SR5008 over the weekend to replace an old AVR. I put the SR5008 to work with a couple of Blurays (Oblivion and Warm Bodies) and it sounds great, a worth while upgrade for sure.

One of the things I was wondering is that if a second sub is being used (eg. connected to subwoofer 2 preout) how can it be adjusted independently of subwoofer 1? My main speakers are KEF 3005 series, with two additional matching KEF speakers to make it 7.1. So on subwoofer 1 I have the matching KEF sub connected. On the subwoofer 2 output I have a Buttkicker transducer and Buttkicker amp connected. I turned off the Buttkicker during Audyssey configuration as recommend by the FAQ.

I find the Buttkicker is far stronger than it was with my previous AVR and I want to know if I can make any adjustments to it (eg. level, crossover) independently from my other sub. Obviously I'd like to avoid disabling Audyssey in the process as well.

Thanks.
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post #284 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 06:26 AM
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^^
The dual sub pre-outs on the 5008 and 6008 are nothing more than an internal "Y" splitter and therefore there is no individual sub volume level control as there would be with the 7008 which uses Sub EQ HT for dual sub EQ and provides for individual sub volume level adjustment.

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post #285 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
The dual sub pre-outs on the 5008 and 6008 are nothing more than an internal "Y" splitter and therefore there is no individual sub volume level control as there would be with the 7008 which uses Sub EQ HT for dual sub EQ and provides for individual sub volume level adjustment.

Hi jdsmoothie, thanks for clarifying this for me. I guess I'll have to try and do my adjustments on the Bittkicker amp itself. Unfortunately the 7008 was way outside my price range, and thats why I ended up with the 5008.

Cheers.
Simon
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post #286 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 07:23 AM
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Understood. Others have done the same configuration as well with the Buttkicker and just adjusted the volume using the knob on the amp. And you are correct in that you do NOT want it connected while running Audyssey.

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post #287 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 07:36 AM
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Hi. I have another question regarding subs, Audyssey and the SR5008. My sub is a KEF htb2se and has no volume control. The only volume related control is a switch for bass boost with 3 settings, 0db +6db and +12db. What position should the switch be in during calibration? During the first try I left the switch at +6db, but I am now wondering if this is the optimal position.

TIA.
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post #288 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 07:56 AM
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The 0db setting as you want the AVR doing the bass management and not the sub. Also note you want the Power switch set to MANUAL during the Audyssey Setup and once completed, you can set it to AUTO.


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post #289 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonseys View Post

Hi. I have another question regarding subs, Audyssey and the SR5008. My sub is a KEF htb2se and has no volume control. The only volume related control is a switch for bass boost with 3 settings, 0db +6db and +12db. What position should the switch be in during calibration? During the first try I left the switch at +6db, but I am now wondering if this is the optimal position.

TIA.

As jdsmoothie noted above go with 0dB. If you thumb through the Auddysey thread/FAQ - it does mention to try to get your sub within a trim level of +/- 3.5dB. The reason for this I am not entirely clear, but I would suppose it has something do with letting your sub produce sound in a 'neutral' state (i.e - you are not amplifying a baseline signal to acheive the correct level). Perhpas it is in my mind - but - when I ran Audyssey the first time and had my sub dial set to half way I got a sub level volume adjustment through the AVR of -8dB. I then turned the volume down on the sub, re-ran it - and got a setting of -3dB. The difference is hardly discerable but my LFE signals do sound somewhat (and we are talking very minor), a little more tight & controlled. This could just be my sub, or maybe just my mind telling me it sounds better...but I do believe as a general rule is preferable not to amplify low frequncy at the sub but rather at the pre-out (receiver).
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post #290 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 10:37 AM
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One of the main reasons for the +/-3db volume range is that you want the signal going to the sub to be strong enough to power on the sub when set to AUTO and if the sub level is set to -8db, that may not be the case.

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post #291 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mothman07 View Post

Yes... And in my original post I documented the troubles I was having getting those pre outs to work while using the hdmi out to zone 2 as well...

Hmmmm...a lot of connections going on here, but so I understand correctly is the issue that the Marantz will not output an audio signal through the analog pre-out for the same Zone (2), in which it is also connected via HDMI? Could be an HDCp issue of some sort.
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post #292 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The 0db setting as you want the AVR doing the bass management and not the sub. Also note you want the Power switch set to MANUAL during the Audyssey Setup and once completed, you can set it to AUTO.

Thank you, yet again! I am going to rerun Audyssey again as I better understand it after reading the FAQ and Audyssey this morning.

So far however, even with a quick calibration this receiver sounds fantastic. My main reason for upgrading was to be able to use the HD sound tracks on Blurays as my previous receiver did not decode DTS-HD or TrueHD. It really does sound amazing. My only quibble is that coming from a class D receiver, that I could fry an egg on top of the SR6008 after a watching a movie. These guys really do get hot.

Simon
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post #293 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 11:56 AM
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After running Audyssey, ensure you have all speakers set to SMALL with a minimum of 80Hz crossover. What master volume level are you using as the AVR should not get hot at all?

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post #294 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 12:49 PM
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Simon,

Don't forget that the receiver needs plenty of room around it for air flow to cool it. If you can't provide several inches of clearance above it so the hot air can escape, you should consider getting some fans.

JDS didn't explicitly mention that one of the reasons for setting the speakers to small is that it diverts the power-hungry low frequencies to the self-powered subwoofer, causing the receiver to run cooler.

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post #295 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been running these two guys 24/7 for the last 5 years on top of my last four receivers (Onkyo's TX-SR705, SR876, NR809 and Marantz SR7008). They are very silent and keep my AVRs cool even after long sessions of music or movies.



They are Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E that I got at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-S-FLEX-SFF21E-120mm-200rpm/dp/B000EISIQQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1378243768&sr=8-2&keywords=sflex+fan

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post #296 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 03:38 PM
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Quick question....
I just bought the sr5008!!!!! YAY ME!
Now, I have a micca ep600 media player streaming HD track flac files off of shared folder on my network. My question is this... my media player is configured to send raw audio over the HDMI to my receiver, but when I play a hi-res flac file it just says PCM. Is that right? I was disappointed hitting the info button didn't give more info about the file playing (like 24bit 192khz type of info). So I'm wondering if I am doing something wrong that it is showing simply PCM instead of FLAC? And is there a way to get more info about the file currently playing?
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post #297 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 03:59 PM
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Quick question....
I just bought the sr5008!!!!! YAY ME!
Now, I have a micca ep600 media player streaming HD track flac files off of shared folder on my network. My question is this... my media player is configured to send raw audio over the HDMI to my receiver, but when I play a hi-res flac file it just says PCM. Is that right? I was disappointed hitting the info button didn't give more info about the file playing (like 24bit 192khz type of info). So I'm wondering if I am doing something wrong that it is showing simply PCM instead of FLAC? And is there a way to get more info about the file currently playing?

Yes it right, as there is nothing to decode especially if you are not using any of the DSP modes. Your network is not is not transmitting a 5.1 track like DTS-MA or Dolby True HD.
*Unless I am mistaken* just because you are playing FLAC or AFLAC (any uncompressed music data) - does not mean the receiver will have "FLAC" indicated on the display the same way as high definition discrete-channel audio formats would be (Dolby, DTS).
If you want to see the bit rate and other 'audio-pertinents', while the track is playing - open up the set up menu, scroll down to "General", then "Audio", and you will see more detailed info regarding the audio signal / channels etc.
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post #298 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 04:04 PM
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One other thing, if you are playing FLAC's, I would recommend setting the sound mode to "Direct"...as this will provide the least amount of sound alteration/degredation. "Pure Direct" is even better but only accesibile if the incoming signal is being transmitted through HDMI. Is your media player connected via HDMI, or ethernet cable?
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post #299 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 04:35 PM
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Thanks for the tip! My network player is hooked up to the network via network cable and the player is hooked up to the SR5008 via HDMI. I would have thought the raw data streaming from the Media player would be decoded by the sr5008... hence me being confused as to why it's only showing pcm and not the file type it is decoding... I wonder if my media player re-encodes flac files to pcm?
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post #300 of 2740 Old 09-03-2013, 05:30 PM
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Think of it like this...there is always going to be some basic level of decoding that goes in the AVR...this is inevitable, that said - PCM (Pulse Code Modulation) is 'direct link' if you will. Some argue it is preferable over Bitstream, but some people don't like it because they do not see Dolby Digital or DTS MA running across the front of their AVR. Also, in most cases it is actually preferable to have the receiver decode, especially in the case of a mid to high end receiver like the SR line from Marantz.
PCM is as lossless as Bitstream, only diff is it is decoded at source instead of AVR, whereas Bitstream is 'zipped' and decoded (un-zipped) when the AVR receives the signal. Now that said, music soundtracks being as they are (not discrete 5.1, but rather 2.1) don't have the same moniker (True HD or Master Audio) as movie soundtracks because they are simply stereo by nature.
To sum, it's either lossy, or lossless...and FLAC's are lossless (Free Lossless Audio Codec)...so sending unzipped PCM in 2.1 configuration (set the Marantz to 'Pure Direct')...is as they say - as good as it gets amigo :-)
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