The **OFFICIAL** Marantz SR5008, SR6008 and SR7008 AV Receiver Owner's Thread - Page 121 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3601 of 4025 Old 03-11-2015, 04:21 PM
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Two issues now with the 6008:

Sometimes when I have it in Direct mode, the illustration of Active Speakers will indicate that the front left and right speakers AND the subwoofer are highlighted in yellow. Other times it only shows left and right highlighted and subwoofer white (not active). Is this some sort of bug? It's certainly made figuring out the Stereo vs. Direct stuff confusing.

Additionally, this Audyssey "L/R Bypass" option does not seem to exist for me. People say it's an option when toggling through Audyssey, but I only have MultiEQ, Audyssey Flat, Graphic EQ and Off. Why am I unable to see L/R Bypass?
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post #3602 of 4025 Old 03-11-2015, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rbf1138 View Post
Two issues now with the 6008:

Sometimes when I have it in Direct mode, the illustration of Active Speakers will indicate that the front left and right speakers AND the subwoofer are highlighted in yellow. Other times it only shows left and right highlighted and subwoofer white (not active). Is this some sort of bug? It's certainly made figuring out the Stereo vs. Direct stuff confusing.

Additionally, this Audyssey "L/R Bypass" option does not seem to exist for me. People say it's an option when toggling through Audyssey, but I only have MultiEQ, Audyssey Flat, Graphic EQ and Off. Why am I unable to see L/R Bypass?
You won't see L/R Bypass if the FL/FR speakers are the only speakers.

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post #3603 of 4025 Old 03-11-2015, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
You won't see L/R Bypass if the FL/FR speakers are the only speakers.
Ah, ok. What if I toggle Center speaker on? Will that mess with anything, or will it allow me to bypass the front two speakers and then get the EQ'd sub?

Secondly, does that seem strange to you that in Direct mode it's showing the subwoofer as yellow (active) even when it's clearly not being used? Or is it just showing that it's one of the currently connected and available speakers, along with front left and right?
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post #3604 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rbf1138 View Post
Ah, ok. What if I toggle Center speaker on? Will that mess with anything, or will it allow me to bypass the front two speakers and then get the EQ'd sub?

Secondly, does that seem strange to you that in Direct mode it's showing the subwoofer as yellow (active) even when it's clearly not being used? Or is it just showing that it's one of the currently connected and available speakers, along with front left and right?
If you configure Center speaker, then yes, you should be able to use "Bypass L/R." In Direct mode, and receiving a stereo 2.0 signal, sub should only be active if using "LFE + MAIN" setting.

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Last edited by jdsmoothie; 03-13-2015 at 04:18 AM.
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i have the SR6008 and i just bought an svs pb1000 sub to go with my definitive technology speakers. I have the pro cinema 600's for my fronts and surrounds, and the pro cinema 1000 for my center. I was reading in the svs section to set the sub at "LFE" only. It is currently at "LFE + main". I tried to switch it to "LFE" only, but when i reran audysey it wasnt recognizing the sub. Is there another setting i need to change? Also, does anyone know what the benefit is to having it at "LFE" only?
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post #3606 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bmock17 View Post
i have the SR6008 and i just bought an svs pb1000 sub to go with my definitive technology speakers. I have the pro cinema 600's for my fronts and surrounds, and the pro cinema 1000 for my center. I was reading in the svs section to set the sub at "LFE" only. It is currently at "LFE + main". I tried to switch it to "LFE" only, but when i reran audysey it wasnt recognizing the sub. Is there another setting i need to change? Also, does anyone know what the benefit is to having it at "LFE" only?
The setting of LFE + MAIN puts too much bass into the sub to include both the LFE and the lower frequencies of the FL/FR speakers which is why the factory default of LFE should be used. Try resetting the microprocessor (p. 208 Owner's manual).

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post #3607 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 01:31 PM
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The setting of LFE + MAIN puts too much bass into the sub to include both the LFE and the lower frequencies of the FL/FR speakers which is why the factory default of LFE should be used. Try resetting the microprocessor (p. 208 Owner's manual).
Thanks JD! i have another question if you dont mind helping. In the SVS thread people were saying to you want the sub trim as close to 0 as possible, and then adjust the actual volume on the sub. Does that sound right to you? Basically i ran audyssey 15 times after adjusting the volume on the sub each time. I finally got it to 0 and use the actual sub to control the volume. Does that sound right to you? Lastly, i have the sub located in the back of the room. i didnt want to run a 15 foot subwoofer cable under the carpet so i bought a rocketfish wireless sub kit and it works great, no loss in signal or anything. However, Audyssey set the distance at 23'6, when the sub is actually only a couple of feet from the main listening position. Am i ok manually changing the distance? sorry for all the questions, but i am relatively new to all of this.
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post #3608 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bmock17 View Post
Thanks JD! i have another question if you dont mind helping. In the SVS thread people were saying to you want the sub trim as close to 0 as possible, and then adjust the actual volume on the sub. Does that sound right to you? Basically i ran audyssey 15 times after adjusting the volume on the sub each time. I finally got it to 0 and use the actual sub to control the volume. Does that sound right to you? Lastly, i have the sub located in the back of the room. i didnt want to run a 15 foot subwoofer cable under the carpet so i bought a rocketfish wireless sub kit and it works great, no loss in signal or anything. However, Audyssey set the distance at 23'6, when the sub is actually only a couple of feet from the main listening position. Am i ok manually changing the distance? sorry for all the questions, but i am relatively new to all of this.
Depends on how often you adjust the sub. It's much easier making adjustments on the AVR so you know how much you're adjusting up/down. Most owners find the sub to be about 5db to low after running Audyssey. So you're better served, getting it to about -5db running Audyssey and then using the Manual Setup - Test Tones to raise it up to suit your preference, closer to 0db. Also note, you don't have to get it exactly to -5db, just somewhere close, say -7db to -4db. The goal is after raising it using the AVR, the final value should be about 0db to ensure a strong enough signal passes to the sub to power it ON (if using Auto mode on the sub). Did you do the Subwoofer Crawl (see link below or google it) to determine best placement of the sub, or are your forced to set it there due to WAF? The sub "distance" is actually a delay setting which accounts for the filters in the sub; however, generally isn't that far off, likely closer to maybe 10-15 ft farther than actual distance. You generally do not want to adjust the sub "distance."

The 'Official' 2014 Denon "S Series" / "X Series" AVR Model Owner's Thread & FAQ

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post #3609 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Depends on how often you adjust the sub. It's much easier making adjustments on the AVR so you know how much you're adjusting up/down. Most owners find the sub to be about 5db to low after running Audyssey. So you're better served, getting it to about -5db running Audyssey and then using the Manual Setup - Test Tones to raise it up to suit your preference, closer to 0db. Also note, you don't have to get it exactly to -5db, just somewhere close, say -7db to -4db. The goal is after raising it using the AVR, the final value should be about 0db to ensure a strong enough signal passes to the sub to power it ON (if using Auto mode on the sub). Did you do the Subwoofer Crawl (see link below or google it) to determine best placement of the sub, or are your forced to set it there due to WAF? The sub "distance" is actually a delay setting which accounts for the filters in the sub; however, generally isn't that far off, likely closer to maybe 10-15 ft farther than actual distance. You generally do not want to adjust the sub "distance."

The 'Official' 2014 Denon "S Series" / "X Series" AVR Model Owner's Thread & FAQ
all of this makes sense, thanks again for replying! As far as the sub placement, i did not do the sub crawl, and it has nothing to do with the WAF. i am just limited on placement. I have a 106' fixed projector screen on the wall. It is in a recessed wall. The total width of the wall is 108 inches, and my entertainment center is almost 100 inches, so i dont have enough room to put it in the front corner and i dont really want it sitting in front of the entertainment center. I moved the sub to the back of the room, behind one of the seats just so it isnt out in the open.
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post #3610 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 02:05 PM
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all of this makes sense, thanks again for replying! As far as the sub placement, i did not do the sub crawl, and it has nothing to do with the WAF. i am just limited on placement. I have a 106' fixed projector screen on the wall. It is in a recessed wall. The total width of the wall is 108 inches, and my entertainment center is almost 100 inches, so i dont have enough room to put it in the front corner and i dont really want it sitting in front of the entertainment center. I moved the sub to the back of the room, behind one of the seats just so it isnt out in the open.
I'd suggest doing the sub crawl then for more optimum sub placement.

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post #3611 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 02:15 PM
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I'd suggest doing the sub crawl then for more optimum sub placement.
Got it. Thanks again!
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
If you configure Center speaker, then yes, you should be able to use "Bypass L/R." In Direct mode, sub should only be active if using "LFE + MAIN" setting.
As a reference for others, if you set Center channel to Small manually and you don't actually have a Center, Audyssey can only be On or Off, there were no other options. You can't tell Audyssey that the Center channel exists because when it calibrates it knows it's not there, making it impossible to "trick" the AVR into allowing for L/R Bypass mode without actually having a Center.
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post #3613 of 4025 Old 03-12-2015, 06:55 PM
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Got it. Thanks again!
bmock17,

As jdsmoothie suggested, the sub crawl will identify a few places where the sub should be placed with respect to the Main Listening Position (MLP) in terms of peak bass output. Audyssey XT will try and smooth out the peaks, but will not do so well with the nulls. The room dimensions and physics of long wavelength bass frequencies work against you on this.

You'll find that a single sub will struggle in getting smooth bass due to room modes below 300Hz (the Schroeder Frequency) and while it maybe okay at the MLP - just a seat away, the bass will sound very different.

Be sure to check the F3 response of the PM600 in your room as Def Tech as specs are a little bit on the generous side. A high crossover frequency set on the SR6008 (say 120Hz or more) will risk localization of the sub - where one hears both the sub and speaker. This may or may not bother you, but for some it's enough of a distraction to spoil the movie watching experience.

Once the Audyssey setup is complete, always make sub level adjusts on the Marantz SR6008. The plate amp volume level adjustment on the sub was used as an input during the Audyssey setup and modifying this may have an impact to the filters created for room correction. Furthermore, the plate amp is working in the analogue domain and not as precise as on the receiver which is working in the digital domain complete with bass management. It's much easier to get back to the default state on the Marantz SR6008 if one is fiddling around don't like the results.

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post #3614 of 4025 Old 03-13-2015, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rbf1138 View Post
As a reference for others, if you set Center channel to Small manually and you don't actually have a Center, Audyssey can only be On or Off, there were no other options. You can't tell Audyssey that the Center channel exists because when it calibrates it knows it's not there, making it impossible to "trick" the AVR into allowing for L/R Bypass mode without actually having a Center.
Correct. If a speaker has not been EQ'd by Audyssey, then it doesn't exist as far as Audyssey is concerned.

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post #3615 of 4025 Old 03-13-2015, 06:15 AM
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I finally got the 6008 to factory reset which in turn fixed my DC trigger problem. I had to unplug the CAT5 cable from the back because that was keeping the receiver from actually turning off. I don't know why disabling network control didn't do the same thing, but I think it may have all been attributed to a stuck logic gate or something similar. Anyway, all is good now so I wanted to thank everyone for their support and patience.

On another note, since I think that splitting my 12VDC out might have caused this (or it was just a big coincidence) does anyone have any solutions to effectively parallel splitting the 12vdc output? I have searched around and havent seen a decent solution. I do not have a switched ac outlet on the 6008, nor is there one on the outlaw amp. Right now my sub is on audio sense which works, but if I upgrade my sub to one that does not have that feature then I would be stuck.
Hi everybody,

An issue appeared in my SR7008 DC trigger logics.
Both trigger turn on and off when SR7008 is turned on and off, and that's ok...BUT....logic settings for both triggers are not working. With AVR turned on, both DC triggers are ON, even with all entries in the trigger menu desabled, including Main zone, zones 2 and 3 and all other entries. Both triggers output according to AVR turned on or off.
Fortunately my Sub is triggered when I turn my AVR on and off, but I cannot program the triggers anymore. Ex. Can't program trigger 2 to power ON the Zone 2 Amp.
I have the latest firmware installed. Tried Factory reset. Tried soft reset (power cable off for 30 min).
Problem remains.

Any idea? other than malfunction in trigger logic board.....Thanks a lot.
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post #3616 of 4025 Old 03-13-2015, 06:38 PM
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Last two evenings I came home to find the AVR on, with 00:00 displayed. I know that I definitely turned it off the night before. Any ideas why it's turning on like this on it's own?
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I have a 7008. Out in the open however still gets pretty hot on top. Does anyone have a fan on thier unit. I have a small desk fan and i think it would help however blowing it from above n to the top i think would be counter productive pushing the hot air back down. Do you think having it blowing cool air in the left side of the unit would be beneficial for it? I use it a lot and would like it to last years.
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post #3618 of 4025 Old 03-15-2015, 01:36 PM
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^^
JUst turn it around and pull the air away from the AVR.

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post #3619 of 4025 Old 03-15-2015, 01:58 PM
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Mine is not out in the open & can get warm in the summer. I put one of these on it with a thermostat to control it. It's not totally silent, but pretty darn quiet.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835345004
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clicking noise

Hey all,
This is my first post but have been reading these forums for a long time. I just upgraded from the SR 7007 to the SR 7008 as I want to add front height speakers to my setup. I am running an Emotive XPA 3 with a 7. speaker setup made up of Paradigm Monitor 7 series speakers and 2 subs, an SVS PB 2000 and an Energy ESCW 10. I am using all the same connections/cables as I did with the 7007 but now when watching tv I am getting a constant clicking sound from the receiver during commercials or when fast forwarding/ rewinding the pvr. I have an optical cable going from the pvr/cable box to the 7008. I have tried setting the format on the receiver with no luck and the only option I have on my cable box is Dolby Digital/AC3. I have also noticed the sane clicking sound when going from the menu to concert on a concert bluray on my Oppo 103D. The clicking sound is coming from the receiver switching formats, you can see it go from stereo to master audio etc on the display when it is happening. I didn't have this issue on the 7007 and can't come up with a way around it. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
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post #3621 of 4025 Old 03-15-2015, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Federo5 View Post
I have a 7008. Out in the open however still gets pretty hot on top. Does anyone have a fan on thier unit. I have a small desk fan and i think it would help however blowing it from above n to the top i think would be counter productive pushing the hot air back down. Do you think having it blowing cool air in the left side of the unit would be beneficial for it? I use it a lot and would like it to last years.
You might be interested in the solution offered by The Cooler Guys here: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556082491.html which is placed on top of the receiver.

It's got a spot thermal probe that you can place on the receiver - generally place it near the video board is as that tends to generate the most heat. The fan will automatically switch ON once the temperature goes above 88 deg F and switch OFF once the temperature goes below 81 deg F. An adjustable thermostat is available for an extra $15. There are also two and three fan versions available to be placed on top of the receiver if extra cooling is needed. The fans run quiet so it wont disturb the movie/TV watching experience.
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post #3622 of 4025 Old 03-16-2015, 03:46 PM
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You are very welcome! I'm glad it worked out well, at least until your wife gets home. I knew it was fun to help other people spend money!
my SR7009 arrived today :-)

just did a quick Audyssey install, so far impression: what a beautiful machine, what a sound and sooooo easy to use.
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post #3623 of 4025 Old 03-17-2015, 11:50 AM
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hi all,

received my SR7009 yesterday, first impression: amazing looking machine, great sound and soooo easy to use. Just did a quick Audyssey run with my Infinity 5.1 (the new stereo speakers are yet to come) and this already sounds so good. Als just ordered a CD6005 to play from CD's again (I usually play a lot from HDD).

happy happy happy :-)
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hi all,

received my SR7009 yesterday, first impression: amazing looking machine, great sound and soooo easy to use. Just did a quick Audyssey run with my Infinity 5.1 (the new stereo speakers are yet to come) and this already sounds so good. Als just ordered a CD6005 to play from CD's again (I usually play a lot from HDD).

happy happy happy :-)

You know, I was listening to music last night and feeling the same way about my sound system. People who aren't audio buffs would probably think we are both crazy, but we should be in good company here on AVS Forum.
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post #3625 of 4025 Old 03-17-2015, 01:20 PM
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Up here in canada eh we had future shop dealio..999.OTD
So i pulled the trigger.Ive always been a Marantz fan,just not the price tag.Anyway love the sound once adjusted and dialed in for 2 ch.especially the tight punchy bass it seems to deliver.
I am replacing a Onkyo 818(shouldnt say replace as it's sitting off to the side waiting for my decision),I feel the Onkyo outshines the marantz in the HT side of things though..Music not a chance,especially with 7008's better on board DAC.

I bought it last Friday,did the firmware update and have been enjoying and test driving it.It has changed inputs by itself on me twice though...strange.It seems about 10-15 minutes of initial tv watching or such it just jumps to phono....Once i set it back to cab/sat it never does it again all night.another thing i notice when i go into the level menu it seems low compared to what the onkyo measured them at.
It does get pretty warm on top something im not too happy about since mostly made up of soldered circuit boards.

The 818 would be barely luke warm to the touch if I was kickin the knob up ,in either movie or music mode.I have owned the 818 since Jan 2013 and its never gave me a hint of issues...looking for wood to knock on.....

Should i keep the Marantz and add fans or pound the 818 till it craps the bed..The Marantz definately has a better stigma attachment to it.

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post #3626 of 4025 Old 03-17-2015, 02:08 PM
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That's where I got mine as well, pretty good deal. I had an issue with excessive relay clicking when watching tv or blu rays, have you noticed anything like that? I contacted support and their response was " The SR7008 has a new processor which interprets incoming signals differently. There are no real settings that could help with this, but you can try running the unit in Multi-Channel stereo to reduce the processing that's going on." I tried this and it didn't do anything with regards to the switching plus I really didn't like the sound.
I am using the exact same setup as I was on my 7007, same cables and sources, just switched them out. I never experienced this issue on the 7007, I find it hard to believe that a newer processor would be so far behind the previous model that it would cause this.
I just exchanged it at Future Shop and have another here now in the box but won't get a chance to set it up until after the weekend. I am hoping that the clicking was a one off and not common. Has anyone else noticed this and if so did you have any luck getting around it?
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post #3627 of 4025 Old 03-17-2015, 02:58 PM
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SR5008 Failed After 8 Months - How About You?

Hello,

I purchased my SR5008 late 2013 - After 8 months, I began to hear pops and crackles. Jiggling the wiring made the noise stop. After 12 months, the noise became an unbearable whizzing.

I sent the unit to Marantz's repair facility, United radio. They were unable to repair the issue. In return Marantz sent me a Refurbished SR5008.

Do you feel this is the right thing for Marantz to do? It seems unethical to me. I feel that they should have provided a new model or a comparable current model in exchange.

Just curious what you think?

Thank you in advance.
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post #3628 of 4025 Old 03-17-2015, 06:29 PM
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^^
You bought a SR5008. It stopped working, so Marantz provided you with a working SR5008. The only reason they would upgrade you to a newer model is if they were out of your model. Not sure why you think this is "unethical?"

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post #3629 of 4025 Old 03-17-2015, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newfieninja View Post
That's where I got mine as well, pretty good deal. I had an issue with excessive relay clicking when watching tv or blu rays, have you noticed anything like that? I contacted support and their response was " The SR7008 has a new processor which interprets incoming signals differently. There are no real settings that could help with this, but you can try running the unit in Multi-Channel stereo to reduce the processing that's going on." I tried this and it didn't do anything with regards to the switching plus I really didn't like the sound.
I am using the exact same setup as I was on my 7007, same cables and sources, just switched them out. I never experienced this issue on the 7007, I find it hard to believe that a newer processor would be so far behind the previous model that it would cause this.
I just exchanged it at Future Shop and have another here now in the box but won't get a chance to set it up until after the weekend. I am hoping that the clicking was a one off and not common. Has anyone else noticed this and if so did you have any luck getting around it?
Hi from BC
If your relays are clicking while your not switching inputs or interacting with the receiver then you def got some issues.As for 2 ch music its got some legs and the internal processing and overall gui is better than the onkyo.But the onkyo is no slouch in the home theater section and it also has a lot of internal options.
Im still on the fence..i should be able to get 5-600 cdn for the onkyo so the investment wouldnt be too much.
why does it have a mind of its own though..earlier tonight i was listening to network/internet radio for approx 10 min then it decided to change to fm tuner.??

keep us posted for thoughts after the weekend install #2


Last edited by snowyo; 03-17-2015 at 07:34 PM.
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post #3630 of 4025 Old 03-17-2015, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
You might be interested in the solution offered by The Cooler Guys here: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556082491.html which is placed on top of the receiver.

It's got a spot thermal probe that you can place on the receiver - generally place it near the video board is as that tends to generate the most heat. The fan will automatically switch ON once the temperature goes above 88 deg F and switch OFF once the temperature goes below 81 deg F. An adjustable thermostat is available for an extra $15. There are also two and three fan versions available to be placed on top of the receiver if extra cooling is needed. The fans run quiet so it wont disturb the movie/TV watching experience.
so i need to take apart the av or remove the top and place it inside the unit?
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