The **OFFICIAL** Marantz SR5008, SR6008 and SR7008 AV Receiver Owner's Thread - Page 133 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3961 of 3999 Old 06-08-2015, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueimage View Post
My SR7008 has started turning off and quickly flashing red. It seems to work if I unplug it for a few minutes. Then it will work for minutes, hours or days - and then stop. Is this potentially related to overheating? It has seemed really hot to the touch lately and the ambient temperature is rising now that it is "summer" - 31C / ~88F here today
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
A fast flashing light generally means one of three things ...

(1) A loose speaker wire from one post touching another post. Visually inspect the rear panel to ensure no loose wires.
(2) Trying to play 4-ohm speakers too loud. Lower the volume.
(3) Amp failure

If not (1) or (2), the unit comes with a 3 year warranty if purchased from an authorized dealer and will require repair.
trueimage,

If the surface of the SR-7008 is very hot, might want to consider an external cooling solution offered by the Cooler Guys here: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556095699.html

Place the cooling unit appropriately to draw in fresh cool air and expel the heated air away from the SR-7008. Check that there is sufficient space to allow for ventilation around the SR-7008. Place the thermostat probe near where the hottest surface of the SR-7008 is at, usually near where the HDMI board is at. Program the cooling unit on which temperature to turn ON/OFF.

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post #3962 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 11:18 AM
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I am looking to upgrade my Maratnz SR7300 (10+ years old). I do have a Samsung 4K JS8500 TV. I am looking at the SR7007 and SR7008. Should I be looking at anything else (Denon?). I see these have 4k pass-through. I thought true 4K was not available in the AVR's yet? Is this limited bandwidth and if so how will i notice it? Should I just wait until the true 4k ones come out?

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post #3963 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zoepup View Post
I am looking to upgrade my Maratnz SR7300 (10+ years old). I do have a Samsung 4K JS8500 TV. I am looking at the SR7007 and SR7008. Should I be looking at anything else (Denon?). I see these have 4k pass-through. I thought true 4K was not available in the AVR's yet? Is this limited bandwidth and if so how will i notice it? Should I just wait until the true 4k ones come out?
Both models are HDMI 1.4 with 4k 24/30Hz pass-through and upscaling, but neither is HDCP 2.2 (starting on the 2015 models) which would require passing the HDCP 2.2 video to the TV directly with HD audio to the AVR via a dual HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2 Blu Ray player. The SR7008 is the better buy though as it uses the more advanced version of Audyssey MultEQ XT32. The newer SR7010 should be released this September which will be HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2.

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post #3964 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Both models are HDMI 1.4 with 4k 24/30Hz pass-through and upscaling, but neither is HDCP 2.2 (starting on the 2015 models) which would require passing the HDCP 2.2 video to the TV directly with HD audio to the AVR via a dual HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2 Blu Ray player. The SR7008 is the better buy though as it uses the more advanced version of Audyssey MultEQ XT32. The newer SR7010 should be released this September which will be HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2.
SO is the 7009 any better? There are some real good prices on these 7007/7008 but i don't' want to desire a new one within a year

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post #3965 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by zoepup View Post
SO is the 7009 any better? There are some real good prices on these 7007/7008 but i don't' want to desire a new one within a year
The SR7009 has upgraded HDAM pre-amps and has Atmos 7.1.4 capability (w/2CH external amp).

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post #3966 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
A fast flashing light generally means one of three things ...

(1) A loose speaker wire from one post touching another post. Visually inspect the rear panel to ensure no loose wires as this is by far the most common cause for this issue.
(2) Trying to play 4-ohm speakers too loud. Lower the volume.
(3) Amp failure

If not (1) or (2), the unit comes with a 3 year warranty if purchased from an authorized dealer and will require repair.
Quote:
Originally Posted by g.costanza View Post
Surely it isn't 88 degrees in your house. If u aren't over taxing the amps (try different speakers...can't hurt) and/or blocking the ventilation, sure sounds broke to me. I'd either stick a known accurate thermometer near the heat sink or get one of those hand held laser thermometers and see how hot they are getting. Or could be faulty sensor. Doubt that's a user serviceable part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by g.costanza View Post
If u watch avr repair vids on utube, many units r returned for loose speaker wire shorting the amps. If a maker could come up with a way make the speaker connection by sliding an unterminated wire into widely spaced plastic receptacles on the unit, I bet it would save them a lot of $$$$ in warranty repair/shipping costs in the long run.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
trueimage,

If the surface of the SR-7008 is very hot, might want to consider an external cooling solution offered by the Cooler Guys here: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556095699.html

Place the cooling unit appropriately to draw in fresh cool air and expel the heated air away from the SR-7008. Check that there is sufficient space to allow for ventilation around the SR-7008. Place the thermostat probe near where the hottest surface of the SR-7008 is at, usually near where the HDMI board is at. Program the cooling unit on which temperature to turn ON/OFF.
The clearance is a bit low. It is a temporary setup. I put a pedestal fan pointed at it and it ran fine for a few hours. I checked all the cables and they seem fine, but I'm using some old monster speaker wire bare - no banana plugs or anything.

My speakers are Paradigm Studio 100 v5 with the "bridge" across the two sets of posts - only using one, and Paradigm Studio CC-590 center. Both says "compatible with 8 ohms" on Paradigm's site. It isn't like anything is being moved, and it happens and then stops for long periods.

Also, overheating probably isn't it since it happened when being powered on "cold" (had been off overnight)

The receiver was a refurb (from an authorized retailer) and I received it in about April. Does that diminish my warranty length? I'm assuming I have at least 1 year.
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post #3967 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 01:24 PM
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^^
The 1 year refurb warranty is good and depending on what credit card you used, the card issuer may add an extra year to that warranty. Although generally recommended to get a longer warranty as the replacement of an HDMI board (although not common) will set you back about $400.

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post #3968 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 03:52 PM
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7008 question

I just bought the 7008 from Cruchfield and I was wondering if its strong enough for my Klipsch rf-82 ii's, rc-62, rb-61...

Also hoping I made the right choice. Budget was $1000.
Upgraded for a Sony dh550.


Thanks.
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post #3969 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 05:30 PM
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^^
Klipsch are very efficient speakers. Even the Marantz slim-line models (NR1504 or NR1604) could power them.

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post #3970 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc6284 View Post
I just bought the 7008 from Cruchfield and I was wondering if its strong enough for my Klipsch rf-82 ii's, rc-62, rb-61...

Also hoping I made the right choice. Budget was $1000.
Upgraded for a Sony dh550.


Thanks.
Hi dc6284,

Welcome to AVS!

The Klipsch speakers are horn type and generally very efficient speakers. The technical specs of the Klipsch rf-82 ii have a sensitivity of 98dB/W/m, which means at a distance of 1m from the speaker and with just 1 W of power, the Sound Pressure Level (SPL) is 98dB in your room. That's really loud and most would want to turn it down else there is a risk of hearing damage. The same thing for the Klipsh rc-62.

How far away will you be sitting from the speakers? The reason I ask is because SPL drops by 6dB when the distance is doubled. So if you're sitting at 2m away from the Klipsch rf-82 ii, the SPL drops to about 92dB, which is still pretty loud.

Double the distance again to 4m (13 feet) and the SPL drop to around 86dB.

Around 85dB at the Main Listening Position (MLP) is generally referred to as Reference Level. You're able to achieve that with just one speaker and with 1W of power.

Once you start to add additional speakers such as the second Klipsch rf-82 ii for a two channel stereo pair, then a center channel with the Klipsch rc-62, for a total power requirement of just 3W - there's going to be an increase in SPL at the MLP. You'll more than likely would turn it down.

The SR-7008 is rated for 125W per channel in two channel "solid" stereo mode with 0.08% THD at the full frequency spectrum of 20Hz to 20kHz. That is more than 20dB headroom to take into account transients. So the SR-7008 has sufficient power to cleanly drive your Klipsch speakers to Reference Level.

If you want a guide on speaker power requirements, try the following web app calculator, based on your room/speaker arrangement: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

Target is to reach 105dB peak at the MLP.

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post #3971 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 07:16 PM
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I was asking because my friend has the XPA-200 and has the same speakers an it sounds atleast 5x as loud and deep as mine without any subs running. Just didnt know if there was something else in my price rang I should look for. I want the marantz to suit my needs. But didnt know.


Thanks....
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post #3972 of 3999 Old 06-09-2015, 07:19 PM
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I was referring to 5x as deep as my sony dh550. Just just was wondering with the Marantz if I would hear a difference.


Thanks.
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post #3973 of 3999 Old 06-10-2015, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc6284 View Post
I was asking because my friend has the XPA-200 and has the same speakers an it sounds atleast 5x as loud and deep as mine without any subs running. Just didnt know if there was something else in my price rang I should look for. I want the marantz to suit my needs. But didnt know.


Thanks....
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc6284 View Post
I was referring to 5x as deep as my sony dh550. Just just was wondering with the Marantz if I would hear a difference.


Thanks.
Hi dc6284,

Does your friend have the same room and components (apart from the speakers) as yourself? The room has a significant impact to sound reproduction as you've found out - even though both you and your friend have the same speakers and up-stream gear.

Perhaps the fist thing to consider is the proper setup of the speakers and sub(s) in your listening room environment. Set the speakers according the recommendation given in the SR-7008 owner's manual, pay particular attention to the angles for each speaker and the Main Listening Position (MLP). Then place the sub(s) where the best bass response is going to be so that it's smooth at the MLP.

Edit: See the speaker layout for a 5.1 system as shown in the Marantz owner's manual.


Edit: To find a few good positions for the subs, do the sub crawl test as shown in the youtube video by Axiom audio:

Once you've got the best place for the speakers and sub(s) sorted out, you would want to enable Room EQualization (REQ) that will make correction filters for each speaker to a target curve that will take into account the anomalies/distortions created by the room. Think of REQ as the final step in a sound reproduction system.

The Audyssey XT32 with sub EQ HT on the SR-7008 is one of the best commercially available Room EQualization (REQ) systems for ordinary folks. Be sure to follow the setup tips given by AVS member Keith Barnes in the following post: "Official" Audyssey thread (FAQ in post #51779)

Audyssey XT32 applies more correction filters in the bass region where 20 to 30 dB variations in the frequency response is common in most rooms.

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Last edited by steveting99; 06-10-2015 at 08:26 PM. Reason: typo and additional text for clarity. Picture and video links provided.
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post #3974 of 3999 Old 06-10-2015, 01:36 PM
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My SR7008 just got delivered and I have a quick question. I am currently running a 2.1 setup with a NAD 1600 pre and an Adcom 545 amp. Speakers are Polk SDA 2's and a SVS pb-10isd.

I am keeping everything the same except adding two minimus 7's for rear channels bringing the total system up to a 4.1 system for now, going to go to 5.1 in the future as soon as I figure out an appropriate center channel speaker. Also replacing the NAD with the 7008

So the question is, should I continue to let the Adcom 545 power the SDA's and let the 7008 power everything else, or just let the 7008 power everything, or let the Adcom power the rears, or the center, or some other config?

Thanks,
Todd
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post #3975 of 3999 Old 06-10-2015, 02:04 PM
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Why not give both a try? I use a Marantz 5008 to power the center and surrounds and let the Onkyo/Integra M504 power my mains for movies. The 5008 hardly gets warm after a 2 hour movie. I haven't tried letting the 5008 drive all five speakers but it probably would do fine. I just like the XSP-1/M-504 combo for 2 channel more than the 5008 for 2 channel.

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post #3976 of 3999 Old 06-10-2015, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spawndn72 View Post
My SR7008 just got delivered and I have a quick question. I am currently running a 2.1 setup with a NAD 1600 pre and an Adcom 545 amp. Speakers are Polk SDA 2's and a SVS pb-10isd.

I am keeping everything the same except adding two minimus 7's for rear channels bringing the total system up to a 4.1 system for now, going to go to 5.1 in the future as soon as I figure out an appropriate center channel speaker. Also replacing the NAD with the 7008

So the question is, should I continue to let the Adcom 545 power the SDA's and let the 7008 power everything else, or just let the 7008 power everything, or let the Adcom power the rears, or the center, or some other config?

Thanks,
Todd
Welcome to AVS!

Please note that the Polk SDA 2 are full range speakers with a 12" passive radiator and despite a 92 dB sensitivity rating, likes a lot of current. While they are rated at 4 ohms, the impedance curve drops below 3 ohms. Check the impedance vs. frequency graph. Polk also recommends the SDA 2 to be paired with amps that have common ground according to this review: http://www.highfidelityreview.com/polk-audio-sda-2.html

The SR-7008 is rated for 125W per channel in stereo mode and into an 8 ohm nominal load, it's not really rated for 4 ohm loads at reference level. The Adcom 545 is rated for 4 ohm load so will be able to provide the needed current for the SDA 2 during transients at reference levels.

The best combination seems to be using the pre-outs for the front left and front right to the Adcom 545 which will drive the power hungry Polk SDA 2. That will leave sufficient power left over for the surrounds.

Power requirements is also dependent on the distance between the speaker and Main Listening Position (MLP), placement within the room, maximum Sound Pressure Level (SPL) that one can tolerate at the MLP.

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post #3977 of 3999 Old 06-11-2015, 05:11 AM
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Thanks SteveTing99,

That is exactly what I was looking for. It has been a while since I looked at the impedance of the SDA's. It all came back to me as I was reading your post.

Got everything hooked up last night, Very happy so far. My new to me subwoofer sounds much better.

Thanks,
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post #3978 of 3999 Old 06-11-2015, 09:13 PM
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I got the Denon 4520ci instead of the 7008. Did I make the better choice over all?
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post #3979 of 3999 Old 06-11-2015, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
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I got the Denon 4520ci instead of the 7008. Did I make the better choice over all?
Depends on your needs. I got the 7008 over its near-twin x4000 because (a) I've already owned several Denon's but never a Marantz and (b) the Marantz looks so much better, lol. If only we could get it in silver in the U.S.
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post #3980 of 3999 Old 06-12-2015, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dc6284 View Post
I got the Denon 4520ci instead of the 7008. Did I make the better choice over all?
Hi dc6284,

The Denon 4520ci is the previous flagship model that's built in Japan and has the ability to handle 4 ohm load with a slightly higher power output- 150W per channel on the Denon vs. 125W per channel on the Marantz. Not much difference in power and it depends a lot on your room, speaker sensitivity, how far you sit from the speakers, the maximum Sound Pressure Level (SPL) that you're willing to tolerate, etc.

The Denon has a 4 port Ethernet hub at the back. The internal components will be of a better spec than the SR-7008. Believe the DACs on the Denon are 32bit rather than 24bit on the Marantz - which is inaudible in a blind ABX test.

Both units have Audyssey XT32 with sub EQ HT so room correction wise, both will be the same.

If you got a good price for the Denon 4520ci due to it end of life and like the looks, by all means enjoy the flagship until the up-grade bug bites.

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post #3981 of 3999 Old 06-14-2015, 07:06 PM
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I got mine Friday and set it up and I am in love with it! I thought my pioneer SC-37 was the best, this blows it away. The unit drives my main Focal 1027Be's Overall it sounds much more hi fidelity than the Pioneer. It's probably the class D type amplification on the pioneer. So so far I love it and it matches my old school Marantz 6300 turntable. That is were I noticed the audio quality. Getting used to the setup and will read the setup tips using the mic.

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post #3982 of 3999 Old 06-15-2015, 06:10 AM
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Hi dc6284,

The Denon 4520ci is the previous flagship model that's built in Japan and has the ability to handle 4 ohm load with a slightly higher power output- 150W per channel on the Denon vs. 125W per channel on the Marantz. Not much difference in power and it depends a lot on your room, speaker sensitivity, how far you sit from the speakers, the maximum Sound Pressure Level (SPL) that you're willing to tolerate, etc.

The Denon has a 4 port Ethernet hub at the back. The internal components will be of a better spec than the SR-7008. Believe the DACs on the Denon are 32bit rather than 24bit on the Marantz - which is inaudible in a blind ABX test.

Both units have Audyssey XT32 with sub EQ HT so room correction wise, both will be the same.

If you got a good price for the Denon 4520ci due to it end of life and like the looks, by all means enjoy the flagship until the up-grade bug bites.
The Denon flagship models are "designed" to power 4-ohm speakers to reference volume levels (ie. 0db/80) as the amps used are much more robust and higher quality than the D+M non-flagship models (eg. SR7008). The 25W difference between the SR7008 and SR5008 makes much less difference than does the 25W difference between the 4520CI and the SR7008.

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post #3983 of 3999 Old 06-18-2015, 03:34 PM
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I'm back with a Zone 2-3 question. Volume output for zone pre-outs.
I finally got Zone 2 to work, by setting Speakers -> Amps to 9 channel, therefore Zone 2 is analog pre-outs. Then RCA cables to an input on my Kenwood (which runs two sets of speakers elsewhere).
I went into Zone 2 settings and raised the volume to 0. Left other settings alone.
The Kenwood puts out reasonable sound now. So everything is working but my question is, what exactly doe that setting do since it is going to a pre-out? just raising the output gain? If so what is a proper number for that. Seems like -79 to +10 is quite a range for pre outs.


I am not used to an AVR that had settings for pre outs or room B.
I didn't even realize at first that I had to turn Zone 2 ON for the pre-out to work, I understand that is because it has the option of having a different source than zone 1. Right?

Music, more music.
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post #3984 of 3999 Old 06-18-2015, 04:02 PM
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^^
An external amp generally needs to be set to 80-100% of maximum volume. Zone 2 can pass either the same source as the main zone or a different source and yes, Zone 2 must be set to ON regardless of whether using the speaker posts or pre-outs.

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post #3985 of 3999 Old 06-23-2015, 03:20 AM
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How have you guys set up the hdmi arc ?
I cant get it to work...

Have an sr7008 and LG55LA660v. Both are ARC compatible, i selected the "tv sound out" in the tv-menu to "arc/optical" the only option exept internal speakers..

Connected the TV hdmi to Monitor1 (ARC) in the AVR.
Did the signalguide and selected tv-audio ARC in the AVR.

When I look at the connections, in the setupmenu I can se that tivo,ps4 htpc have HDMI dedicated to them, 1,2,3,4 and so on.. But the Tv-Audio only have an X.. And I can´t switch it to Monitor1.

Really don´t know whats wrong, beginning to belive that either the TV or the AVR is broken ?
Sorry about the crappy english, can post images on everything if that would help u guys.
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post #3986 of 3999 Old 06-23-2015, 03:22 AM
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Didn´t find the Edit button for my post..
Have the HDMI cable in the ARC in the tv also..
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post #3987 of 3999 Old 06-23-2015, 03:35 AM
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I get it to work with an optical cable..
But it doesent give me dolby from netflix..
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post #3988 of 3999 Old 06-23-2015, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nirov666 View Post
How have you guys set up the hdmi arc ?
I cant get it to work...

Have an sr7008 and LG55LA660v. Both are ARC compatible, i selected the "tv sound out" in the tv-menu to "arc/optical" the only option exept internal speakers..

Connected the TV hdmi to Monitor1 (ARC) in the AVR.
Did the signalguide and selected tv-audio ARC in the AVR.

When I look at the connections, in the setupmenu I can se that tivo,ps4 htpc have HDMI dedicated to them, 1,2,3,4 and so on.. But the Tv-Audio only have an X.. And I can´t switch it to Monitor1.

Really don´t know whats wrong, beginning to belive that either the TV or the AVR is broken ?
Sorry about the crappy english, can post images on everything if that would help u guys.
When using HDMI(ARC) there is no source setting on the AVR, rather on the AVR you simply set HDMI Control to ON. On the LG, the HDMI-CEC (SimpLink) must also be enabled. Once all settings are made, power off both TV and AVR .... power on the TV, wait a few seconds, then power on the AVR. If the connection is working correctly, the AVR will automatically switch to the TV Audio source a few seconds after being powered on. If it doesn't work (as is sometimes the case) use the optical audio out connection and select the TV Audio source when you want to listen to the TV's smart apps (eg. Netflix). Note that the optical is more likely to pass DD 5.1 than the HDMI(ARC).

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post #3989 of 3999 Old 06-23-2015, 06:23 AM
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jdsmoothie:
You´re the best!

Sitting here pressing F5 since I post it in waiting for replys..

TOTALY missed the Simplink setting in the LG...
Huge thanks! Made all the difference!
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post #3990 of 3999 Old 06-25-2015, 12:02 PM
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I just purchased a used SR7008, planning to use it to power up my 5.1 focal dome speakers.
I will give it try for my 2.1 setup as well, will report back once I receive and set it up.
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