The **OFFICIAL** Marantz SR5008, SR6008 and SR7008 AV Receiver Owner's Thread - Page 147 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gidgiddonihah View Post
How is that distinguished from speaker crossovers in terms of what the sub does? Are you saying that the sub set at 100Hz should only filter out the last 20 Hz (100 - 120Hz) of the LFE track but output my full speaker crossover? Guess I'm probably over thinking this.

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The following diagram for a 5.1 system might help.


A 7.1 system would simply have more channels to manage.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:31 PM
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Ugh. I was playing Battlefront on my PS4 when the audio cut out for a second, came back for about 5 seconds and then the receiver clicked off and then right back on.

I am waiting to see if it does it again. If it does I will do a hard and soft reset. Running some banana plugs so I seriously doubt it's my wiring that made it restart. What is odd is last Thursday my roommate was watching a movie on my PS4. I walked in the room as he was turning it off. As soon as the screen flashed to the Marantz logo (meaning the PS4 stopped outputting a signal) the receiver output the same ugly sound out of all of the speakers as my first SR5008 did right before it died. Wondering if it has something to do with the PS4 or the PS4 input as both incidents (today and last Thursday) were related to the PS4? Any ideas?
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gidgiddonihah View Post
Ugh. I was playing Battlefront on my PS4 when the audio cut out for a second, came back for about 5 seconds and then the receiver clicked off and then right back on.

I am waiting to see if it does it again. If it does I will do a hard and soft reset. Running some banana plugs so I seriously doubt it's my wiring that made it restart. What is odd is last Thursday my roommate was watching a movie on my PS4. I walked in the room as he was turning it off. As soon as the screen flashed to the Marantz logo (meaning the PS4 stopped outputting a signal) the receiver output the same ugly sound out of all of the speakers as my first SR5008 did right before it died. Wondering if it has something to do with the PS4 or the PS4 input as both incidents (today and last Thursday) were related to the PS4? Any ideas?

At what volume level? What impedance speakers? Regardless of whether using banana plugs, visually check all wiring.

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Old 02-27-2016, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
At what volume level? What impedance speakers? Regardless of whether using banana plugs, visually check all wiring.
It was low volume level (40ish to 50ish on the 0 to 98 scale) with a low load (quiet, high frequency gunshots).

I have driven this system much harder with much more difficult loads with (all speakers set on small) and without a sub (all speakers set to large) with no problems over the past few weeks. I even pulled up some difficult Interstellar scenes and cranked the volume right after it restarted to see if it would restart again. It handled Interstellar just fine. Doesn't seem to be relates to load.

Speakers:

Mains: ADS L400 (4 Ohms rated to 50 Watts)
Center: Polk Audio CSi3 (8 Ohms)
Rears: Philips Unknowns?? (8 Ohms)
Sub: Boston SW10

Mains and Center are crossed at 100 Hz. Rears are crossed at 80.

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Last edited by gidgiddonihah; 02-27-2016 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gidgiddonihah View Post
It was low volume level (40ish to 50ish on the 0 to 98 scale) with a low load (quiet, high frequency gunshots).

I have driven this system much harder with much more difficult loads with (all speakers set on small) and without a sub (all speakers set to large) with no problems over the past few weeks. I even pulled up some difficult Interstellar scenes and cranked the volume right after it restarted to see if it would restart again. It handled Interstellar just fine. Doesn't seem to be relates to load.

Speakers:

Mains: ADS L400 (4 Ohms rated to 50 Watts)
Center: Polk Audio CSi3 (8 Ohms)
Rears: Philips Unknowns?? (8 Ohms)
Sub: Boston SW10

Mains and Center are crossed at 100 Hz. Rears are crossed at 80.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

Then, yes .. .sounds like maybe an issue with the PS4.

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Old 02-27-2016, 11:34 AM
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Then, yes .. .sounds like maybe an issue with the PS4.
Do you have any ideas on what that could be? I disabled CEC on the PS4 this morning. I think it was called HDMI link or some such nonsense. HDMI control on the receiver is still on but HDMI power off is turned off and has been since I got the receiver (don't like things turning themselves off).

I never use the PS4 for movies (my PS3 and HTPC fulfill that purpose) so I could run the PS4's HDMI output to the TV and use optical from the PS4 to the receiver. If the receiver does freak out with the PS4 I may try that. If you have any other thoughts or ideas I would love to hear them.

Thanks for all the help JD!

Last edited by gidgiddonihah; 02-27-2016 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 02-28-2016, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by gidgiddonihah View Post
Do you have any ideas on what that could be? I disabled CEC on the PS4 this morning. I think it was called HDMI link or some such nonsense. HDMI control on the receiver is still on but HDMI power off is turned off and has been since I got the receiver (don't like things turning themselves off).

I never use the PS4 for movies (my PS3 and HTPC fulfill that purpose) so I could run the PS4's HDMI output to the TV and use optical from the PS4 to the receiver. If the receiver does freak out with the PS4 I may try that. If you have any other thoughts or ideas I would love to hear them.

Thanks for all the help JD!
Sorry, but nothing more than as you indicate, the PS4 was the source involved in both incidents.

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Old 03-02-2016, 09:34 AM
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Sorry, but nothing more than as you indicate, the PS4 was the source involved in both incidents.
Well the receiver is dead. That makes two SR5008's and a SR5009 dead - all the same way (restart loops). When it died last night I was watching Jurassic Park and was on a very 'easy' scene - they were in a bunker with no noises other than guns being pulled out of a locker. Will call Marantz today. Something needs to change here. I am not a happy camper .

Did a soft reset which helped for about 2 minutes and then it went into a boot loop again. Hard reset made it much, much worse (hard reset it about 5 times). Pulled the Chromecast and all the sudden it was stable. When I plugged it back in, the receiver went back to bootlooping. When I pulled the Chromecast out again the receiver was stable. Curious I plugged in a Macbook Pro to the Chromecast input. Bootloop. I unplugged the Macbook (which made the unit stable again), logged the receiver into WiFi to restore the old settings to finish the movie and it went right back to a boot loop the moment it made a network connection.

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Old 03-04-2016, 10:47 AM
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volume down at 50% for dlna devices marantz 5008

sorry for my english.
i owner marantz sr5008 since 2014. recently the volume down at 50% for dlna devices. i resseted to factory and cpu reset too. nothing works, the issue continue.

i need help
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:55 PM
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I am looking for suggestions on what brand and model of bridge to purchase to connect to my PC and cable out to my SR7008.

I am in AZ now and would like to get a unit here prior to my return to Vancouver Island in April. I canot use the powerline solution as my HT room has a separate electric panel. The signal has to travel through two walls/windows.

I would appreciate any suggestions. A contractor was supposed to run a cable last summer but closed off the wall without installing the cable.

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2016, 07:00 PM
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Lately, my SR7008 has been awol on my network when I use the Marantz iPad app. It's just not there when I open the app, though my other devices are. I unplug it for 10 seconds, and it's back! I have it connected via Ethernet cable to my router.

Any ideas? This has really only started to be a consistent issue recently.

Thanks for any advice...


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Old 03-06-2016, 07:49 AM
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A question about LFE low pass filter settings.

I was digging through the Martantz settings for the bass channel, and I noticed the LPF for the LFE channel, which is normally at 120, goes all the way upto 250hz!

Do Blu-rays have any bass above 120 in the LFE specific channel, and is there any reason why I should set the LPF above 120 ?
If Blu-rays have bass upto 120hz, is it better setting the filter well above that so it doesn't interfere ?
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Old 03-06-2016, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Nutman View Post
A question about LFE low pass filter settings.

I was digging through the Martantz settings for the bass channel, and I noticed the LPF for the LFE channel, which is normally at 120, goes all the way upto 250hz!

Do Blu-rays have any bass above 120 in the LFE specific channel, and is there any reason why I should set the LPF above 120 ?
If Blu-rays have bass upto 120hz, is it better setting the filter well above that so it doesn't interfere ?
You may find this helpful.

http://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_7_...pril-2000.html

If I recall there is a recommendation to drop the LPF for the LFE to 80 Hz in the article.

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Last edited by gidgiddonihah; 03-07-2016 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:10 AM
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Lately, my SR7008 has been awol on my network when I use the Marantz iPad app. It's just not there when I open the app, though my other devices are. I unplug it for 10 seconds, and it's back! I have it connected via Ethernet cable to my router.

Any ideas? This has really only started to be a consistent issue recently.

Thanks for any advice...


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Could be an IP address conflict perhaps. Try setting DHCP to OFF and assigning a static IP address to it (p. 200 Owner's manual).

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Old 03-07-2016, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Nutman View Post
A question about LFE low pass filter settings.

I was digging through the Martantz settings for the bass channel, and I noticed the LPF for the LFE channel, which is normally at 120, goes all the way upto 250hz!

Do Blu-rays have any bass above 120 in the LFE specific channel, and is there any reason why I should set the LPF above 120 ?
If Blu-rays have bass upto 120hz, is it better setting the filter well above that so it doesn't interfere ?

The LFE only goes from 20Hz - 120Hz with generally not much above 80Hz. Either leave the setting at 120Hz or lower it to 80Hz whichever you prefer.
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Old 03-08-2016, 05:07 PM
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Could be an IP address conflict perhaps. Try setting DHCP to OFF and assigning a static IP address to it (p. 200 Owner's manual).

JD -

Was about to try your suggestion, but I am a little confused...do I assign an IP Address in the Class A, B, or C range? Or does it matter?

Thanks!


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Old 03-09-2016, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Could be an IP address conflict perhaps. Try setting DHCP to OFF and assigning a static IP address to it (p. 200 Owner's manual).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tgterm View Post
JD -

Was about to try your suggestion, but I am a little confused...do I assign an IP Address in the Class A, B, or C range? Or does it matter?

Thanks!
Typically, you won't have an IP address conflict if the primary router is handling the assignments. To check all IP address assignments, open your router settings page and look at all connected network devices first before changing any devices to static IP's. Setting the Marantz to a static address helps with access from other devices that have configured themselves to the last AVR address. Even the smartphone Marantz app has to manually search for the device whenever the address changes. If it is a static value, the app opens right up without much delay.


On another note, I also have issues with the Network interface on my 7008. 50% of the time when I want to access the network to stream music, etc., the screen GUI will not initialize and display on the TV screen. I have to unplug the unit, wait 10 seconds, and plug it back in. That reboots the network card and all is fine after that. It is an annoyance I have decided to deal with since I won't send it for service for that minor issue.


If you want to change the IP address on your AVR, I suggest taking a photo of the IP address screen or write everything down BEFORE you turn off the DHCP. When DHCP is turned off, all of the address values on the table change to zero. Kind of stupid if you ask me. They should stay as they were and allow you to change only what is necessary. All you need to change is the three digits on the far right of the first row. Just make sure no other devices have been assigned the number you select. Enter the rest of the values as they originally were.
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Old 03-09-2016, 01:11 PM
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Typically, you won't have an IP address conflict if the primary router is handling the assignments. To check all IP address assignments, open your router settings page and look at all connected network devices first before changing any devices to static IP's. Setting the Marantz to a static address helps with access from other devices that have configured themselves to the last AVR address. Even the smartphone Marantz app has to manually search for the device whenever the address changes. If it is a static value, the app opens right up without much delay.


On another note, I also have issues with the Network interface on my 7008. 50% of the time when I want to access the network to stream music, etc., the screen GUI will not initialize and display on the TV screen. I have to unplug the unit, wait 10 seconds, and plug it back in. That reboots the network card and all is fine after that. It is an annoyance I have decided to deal with since I won't send it for service for that minor issue.


If you want to change the IP address on your AVR, I suggest taking a photo of the IP address screen or write everything down BEFORE you turn off the DHCP. When DHCP is turned off, all of the address values on the table change to zero. Kind of stupid if you ask me. They should stay as they were and allow you to change only what is necessary. All you need to change is the three digits on the far right of the first row. Just make sure no other devices have been assigned the number you select. Enter the rest of the values as they originally were.
I called Marantz last night about this and was impressed that they answered with no hold time! They had me turn DHCP off...exit the menu...go back in and turn it back on. Said this should resolve it. I had checked all my IP addresses and saw no obvious conflict...even before I contacted Marantz.

Waiting to see if this solved it...will test again tonight.

Thanks!

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Old 03-09-2016, 08:32 PM
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Marantz is just convinced that my environment is the cause (even though the first died 600 miles away with different speakers and sources, and that I have had two receivers setup in the current electrical system just fine for over a year and a half) of my issues.

Anyway, I thought I would post the curve of my mains and see what you guys thought - maybe these have killed the two of the three speakers that have died (first one was running B&W speakers). The Impedance curve is attached. My other speakers are all rated at 8 Ohms nominal so I seriously doubt those could be the culprit as they have a 75 watt rated max input.

Just as a refresher: two SR5008's and a SR5009 died a bootloop death. The first SR5008 was in a different house 600 miles away from my apartment when it died. The second SR5008 and the SR5009 were both at my apartment.

Speakers:
Boston Acoustics SW10
Polk CSi3 Center Channel
ADS L400 Mains (Impedance Curve Attached)
Cheap 8 Ohm Nominal Phillips Bookshelf Rear Speakers
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:47 AM
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Marantz is just convinced that my environment is the cause (even though the first died 600 miles away with different speakers and sources, and that I have had two receivers setup in the current electrical system just fine for over a year and a half) of my issues.

Anyway, I thought I would post the curve of my mains and see what you guys thought - maybe these have killed the two of the three speakers that have died (first one was running B&W speakers). The Impedance curve is attached. My other speakers are all rated at 8 Ohms nominal so I seriously doubt those could be the culprit as they have a 75 watt rated max input.

Just as a refresher: two SR5008's and a SR5009 died a bootloop death. The first SR5008 was in a different house 600 miles away from my apartment when it died. The second SR5008 and the SR5009 were both at my apartment.

Speakers:
Boston Acoustics SW10
Polk CSi3 Center Channel
ADS L400 Mains (Impedance Curve Attached)
Cheap 8 Ohm Nominal Phillips Bookshelf Rear Speakers
Yup, certainly possible if you tried setting the AVR master volume level very loud as they are 4-ohm very inefficient speakers not to mention unable to take much power. Did the AVRs have proper ventilation (ie. at least 3" on both sides and top with open front/back)?

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Old 03-10-2016, 09:08 AM
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Yup, certainly possible if you tried setting the AVR master volume level very loud as they are 4-ohm very inefficient speakers not to mention unable to take much power. Did the AVRs have proper ventilation (ie. at least 3" on both sides and top with open front/back)?
2 to 3 inches on each side and at least 2.5 feet on top.

Wouldn't the protection circuit kick in if damage to the amps is possible? And if the speakers can only draw 75 Watts, how would they go over what the receiver could provide? Just curious and trying to figure out what is going on. Environment doesn't make sense as all have died very similar deaths and one died with efficient B&W bookshelves 600 miles away.

Also, if it matters the crossovers for the mains were at 100 Hz. These mains sound really quite amazing, I don't want to give them up until I make a large move upward. Oh and on the curve, green is the impedance. I copied the reviewer's comments on the curve below.

"ADS L400 Impedance magnitude (Ω), and phase angle versus frequency. (R&S UPL; +90º is capacitive, -90º is inductive.)

Yes, it's really 4 Ω nominal and 3.4 Ω minimum. It's resistive at the lowest impedances, so good times."

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Old 03-10-2016, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by gidgiddonihah View Post
2 to 3 inches on each side and at least 2.5 feet on top.

Wouldn't the protection circuit kick in if damage to the amps is possible? And if the speakers can only draw 75 Watts, how would they go over what the receiver could provide? Just curious and trying to figure out what is going on. Environment doesn't make sense as all have died very similar deaths and one died with efficient B&W bookshelves 600 miles away.

Also, if it matters the crossovers for the mains were at 100 Hz. These mains sound really quite amazing, I don't want to give them up until I make a large move upward. Oh and on the curve, green is the impedance. I copied the reviewer's comments on the curve below.

"ADS L400 Impedance magnitude (Ω), and phase angle versus frequency. (R&S UPL; +90º is capacitive, -90º is inductive.)

Yes, it's really 4 Ω nominal and 3.4 Ω minimum. It's resistive at the lowest impedances, so good times."

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At what max volume level were you using?

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Old 03-10-2016, 11:25 AM
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At what max volume level were you using?
63 for 98% of movies bitstreamed off my HTPC and Blu-rays on my PS3. Some movies are encoded really quiet and I've had to go higher. 67 is probably the highest I've gone with those quieter movies.

Now that I think about it, the receiver output that awful sound through the speakers when I turned the PS4 off after a movie my roommate commented was quiet and had I turned the volume up to ~67ish. Could be related?

I used the 0-98 scale for my roommates - makes it easier for them to understand the volume.

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Last edited by gidgiddonihah; 03-10-2016 at 12:57 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:05 PM
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2 to 3 inches on each side and at least 2.5 feet on top.

Wouldn't the protection circuit kick in if damage to the amps is possible? And if the speakers can only draw 75 Watts, how would they go over what the receiver could provide? Just curious and trying to figure out what is going on. Environment doesn't make sense as all have died very similar deaths and one died with efficient B&W bookshelves 600 miles away.

Also, if it matters the crossovers for the mains were at 100 Hz. These mains sound really quite amazing, I don't want to give them up until I make a large move upward. Oh and on the curve, green is the impedance. I copied the reviewer's comments on the curve below.

"ADS L400 Impedance magnitude (Ω), and phase angle versus frequency. (R&S UPL; +90º is capacitive, -90º is inductive.)

Yes, it's really 4 Ω nominal and 3.4 Ω minimum. It's resistive at the lowest impedances, so good times."

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The minimum impedance occurs around 200Hz, so having the crossover at 100Hz isn't really going to do much to help off load the fronts to the sub(s).

What are distance and level settings for the LCR as reported by Audyssey after the auto-calibration run?

Have you made any manual adjustments to the LCR level settings after running Audyssey?

The Polk Audio CSi3 as the center channel has a sensitivity of 89dB/W/m. Is the center channel pointed towards the Main Listening Position (MLP)?

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The minimum impedance occurs around 200Hz, so having the crossover at 100Hz isn't really going to do much to help off load the fronts to the sub(s).

What are distance and level settings for the LCR as reported by Audyssey after the auto-calibration run?

I am running off of memory as I am out of town and the receiver is out of commision.

L/R Channel Distances: ~6.1 ft (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Center Channel Distance: ~5.8 ft (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Left Channel Trim: -4.5 dB (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Right Channel Trim: -3.5 dB (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Center Channel Trim: -3.5 dB


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Have you made any manual adjustments to the LCR level settings after running Audyssey?

I have only changed the center channel trim. I think I changed it from the -3.5 dB value to -2.5 dB.

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The Polk Audio CSi3 as the center channel has a sensitivity of 89dB/W/m. Is the center channel pointed towards the Main Listening Position (MLP)?

It is centered with the TV and MLP. I also have it propped up to match ear and tweeter levels of the mains.


(Edit) I have attached an old photo of my setup. The mains are now much further spaced out and the center channel is slightly angled up with door stops. I was sitting in the MLP when the photo was taken.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:56 PM
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I am running off of memory as I am out of town and the receiver is out of commision.

L/R Channel Distances: ~6.1 ft (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Center Channel Distance: ~5.8 ft (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Left Channel Trim: -4.5 dB (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Right Channel Trim: -3.5 dB (set by Audyssey - haven't changed this value)

Center Channel Trim: -3.5 dB

I have only changed the center channel trim. I think I changed it from the -3.5 dB value to -2.5 dB.

It is centered with the TV and MLP. I also have it propped up to match ear and tweeter levels of the mains.

(Edit) I have attached an old photo of my setup. The mains are now much further spaced out and the center channel is slightly angled up with door stops. I was sitting in the MLP when the photo was taken.
Does the top of the AVR get hot within the enclosure?

Forgot to ask the level and distance setting of the sub. What is the speaker efficiency of the fronts (ADS L400)?

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Does the top of the AVR get hot within the enclosure?

Forgot to ask the level and distance setting of the sub. What is the speaker efficiency of the fronts (ADS L400)?
It gets warm but not hot. It has probably 2 ft of vertical clearance.

Don't remember the distance on the sub. Was at least a foot and a half further away than it was measured with a measuring tape (which I've read is very normal). I messed with the physical dial on the sub until I could get Audyssey to correct to 0.0 dB (I am more than a bit OCD). I think I bumped it up to +2 or 3 dB.

Efficiency of the mains is discussed above. Nominal of 4 Ohms and a minimum of 3.2. Dunno the dB/W/m value.

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Old 03-10-2016, 09:51 PM
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^The sub distance is affected by the plate amp and built-in electronics which adds to the group delay. So using physical distance between the sub and Main Listening Position (MLP) wont be the right method. If you use the Audyssey mic in the auto-calibration step, it will take the entire group delay into account and give the right distance.

When you adjusted the level of the sub plate amp gain, you want to be in the negative territory such that after after any manual change such as bumping up the sub level on the AVR, the end result is close to 0.0dB. In your case the post Audyssey level of the sub should be at least -3dB so that after manual adjustment of +3dB, the end result is close to 0.0dB.

Did you do the sub crawl test to check the best positions to place the sub? If not, it's a worthwhile endeavor since you've only got a single sub. Note that multiple subs will help smooth out the bass, provide a larger sweet spot and lessen the impact of localization due to a high crossover frequency.

Also, if you've moved the speakers/sub and/or the MLP, it's best to re-run the Audyssey auto-calibration to get the new levels and distances. Did you use a boom stand mic or tripod to carry the auto-calibration? The boom stand mic will give a more consistent and repeatable result.

Think I found the sensitivity of the ADS L400 bookshelf speakers: 90dB/W/m with maximum power of 75W. The frequency range is 60Hz to 20kHz (+/-3dB), so the crossover of 100Hz is about right.

I did a quick check using the following online app to determine the SPL/power requirements based on your reported numbers for the pair of ADS L400 (1983-1986). Using 6' distance, 90dB/W/m sensitivity and the speakers away from the wall, 75W per channel gets about 106dB at the MLP. The target is to reach 105dB. One only needs about 53W per channel to get the peak of 105dB.

The Marantz SR-5008 can easily deliver this power as it's rated to 100W/channel into "solid" stereo mode. In particular that you've enabled bass management by setting the fronts to SMALL and implement a 100Hz crossover frequency.

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Last edited by steveting99; 03-10-2016 at 10:03 PM. Reason: revision in numbers
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:42 AM
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^The sub distance is affected by the plate amp and built-in electronics which adds to the group delay. So using physical distance between the sub and Main Listening Position (MLP) wont be the right method. If you use the Audyssey mic in the auto-calibration step, it will take the entire group delay into account and give the right distance.

When you adjusted the level of the sub plate amp gain, you want to be in the negative territory such that after after any manual change such as bumping up the sub level on the AVR, the end result is close to 0.0dB. In your case the post Audyssey level of the sub should be at least -3dB so that after manual adjustment of +3dB, the end result is close to 0.0dB.

Did you do the sub crawl test to check the best positions to place the sub? If not, it's a worthwhile endeavor since you've only got a single sub. Note that multiple subs will help smooth out the bass, provide a larger sweet spot and lessen the impact of localization due to a high crossover frequency.

Also, if you've moved the speakers/sub and/or the MLP, it's best to re-run the Audyssey auto-calibration to get the new levels and distances. Did you use a boom stand mic or tripod to carry the auto-calibration? The boom stand mic will give a more consistent and repeatable result.

Think I found the sensitivity of the ADS L400 bookshelf speakers: 90dB/W/m with maximum power of 75W. The frequency range is 60Hz to 20kHz (+/-3dB), so the crossover of 100Hz is about right.

I did a quick check using the following online app to determine the SPL/power requirements based on your reported numbers for the pair of ADS L400 (1983-1986). Using 6' distance, 90dB/W/m sensitivity and the speakers away from the wall, 75W per channel gets about 106dB at the MLP. The target is to reach 105dB. One only needs about 53W per channel to get the peak of 105dB.

The Marantz SR-5008 can easily deliver this power as it's rated to 100W/channel into "solid" stereo mode. In particular that you've enabled bass management by setting the fronts to SMALL and implement a 100Hz crossover frequency.
I appreciate the math. It's what I guessed but it's nice to have reassurance. Any ideas on why I keep getting duds?

I didn't bother with the sub crawl as I really only have one spot that it could go in my current room. I will be moving in the next few months but for now there is only one spot in my room it can go. I do plan on doing the crawl when I move . I haven't changed the sub distance that Audyssey set for those very reasons.

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Last edited by gidgiddonihah; 03-11-2016 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:25 PM
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I appreciate the math. It's what I guessed but it's nice to have reassurance. Any ideas on why I keep getting duds?

...
Your ADS L400 are vintage speakers and rated for 4 ohms nominal impedance. The SR-5008 is not rated to drive 4 ohms load and thus being asked to provide more current than its been designed for, hence failures are occurring.

If you do want to keep the vintage ADS L400 because you like their sound signature, might want to look at getting an external amp that's rated to drive 4 ohm loads. The SR-5008 has pre-outs that can be used to provide the signals to the external amp.

The crossover network of the ADS L400 might need to be checked out to see if any of the components needs refurbishment/replacing. Check also the voice coil of the ADS L400 drivers to see if there is any re-winding needed.

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