The **OFFICIAL** Marantz SR5008, SR6008 and SR7008 AV Receiver Owner's Thread - Page 95 - AVS Forum
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post #2821 of 2965 Old 08-13-2014, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by They_call_me_Roto View Post
I guess I did not explain it with enough detail. I have a 5 channel soundbar at the front of the room below the TV. The TV is on an audio stand, not wall mounted.

The new speakers are an LCR speaker which are mounted to the immediate left and right of the TV. I made a bracket that attaches to the VESA mounting points on the TV so the speakers are "hovering" alongside the screen. I did this because the TV is on a rotating base and I wanted these speakers to be in line with the screen when I change the position of the screen.

I have had the soundbar hooked up to the receiver as such:
L/C/R inputs on the soundbar connected to the FL/C/FR outputs on the AVR. The SL/SR inputs on the soundbar are connected to the front height outputs on the AVR. I have a pair of in ceiling speakers (8ft ceiling) in line with the seating position which serve as the SL and SR speakers. Finally there is another pair of LCR speakers mounted to the rear wall of the room at ~4ft height which serve as the SBL and SBR speakers in the system. I did not and do not plan to use the Audyssey setup.
Help me understand your setup. From your post, the current speaker configuration is as follows.

(1) Soundbar beneath the TV (individual left, center, right, left surround & right surround channels) with individual power terminals. Make and model number? Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. I.e. this would require 5 amps to drive the sound bar.
(2) Left of TV. One LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(3) Right of TV. Another LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(4) Surround Left. In-ceiling type. Make and model number? Single channel?
(5) Surround Right. In-ceiling type. Make and model number? Single channel?
(6) Surround Back Left. One LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(7) Surround Back Right. One LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(8) Do you have a sub? Make and model number?

If the above number of channels are correct, then the number of amps needed to drive all your speakers is = 5(Soundbar beneath the TV)+3(Left of TV)+3(Right of TV)+1(Surround Left)+1(Surround Right)+3(Surround Back Left)+3(Surround Back Right)=19 amps!
Please note that the SR-7008 only has nine amps internally, so you're going to have to choose which of those channels are higher priority. With 11 speaker terminals, the SR-7008 will allow you to connect up to 11 speakers, but internally power a maximum of 9 depending on the surround mode you select. The switching is done internally. The SR-7008 can process all 11 channels, but you'll need to purchase a two channel external amp to utilize this. It is still less than 19 speakers you've got. You might need to consider having a higher end processor as well as additional amps if you want to utilize all your speakers .

Quote:
Originally Posted by They_call_me_Roto View Post
I currently have all eleven speaker outputs on the AVR connected to speakers. I was hoping that I could listen to music as multi-channel stereo over all of the connected speakers. But this receiver only has nine channels of amplification so I'm beginning to think that I could only get music or movie audio out of a combination of nine speakers.

I prefer to let the BR player do the D/A conversion and I feed that to the AVR over the multi-channel analog outputs. Music has a very different sound if the BR player does the conversion compared to sending the audio to the receiver digitally and let the receiver do the D/A conversion. One of the reasons I purchased the SR7008 is because it has three separate speaker outputs for the front left and right channels. I was expecting that the receiver would output and FL or FR audio to all three front speaker pairs, but that does not appear to be the case. It seems to me that by using the 7.1 analog inputs on the receiver that it is only amplifying and outputting sound to the FL or FR speakers - no audio is being sent to the front height or front wide speaker outputs.
As jdsmoothie says, the analogue inputs into the SR-7008 are discrete channels and goes straight to the speaker terminals. I'd run Audyssey at your Main Listening Position. Then do comparison test(s) to that of your BR player (make and model number?) in both digital and analogue modes. You'll find there to be notable sound quality difference between the two. Only you can decide which one is preferable.

For all up-scaling of two channel stereo to multi-channel output, the SR-7008 needs to have digital input.

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post #2822 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 12:20 AM
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hi

i had owned a marantz sr5008 avr 2 months back. the unit was setup using auddysey. but some how i don't feel the bass/woofer is good enough. by playing the same mp3 song, i can feel the song play on my PC altec lansing speaker more punchy and better compare to the song play by sr5008 avr which output to wharfedale speaker.

is there something i missed out here on the AVR setup??

thanks in advance...
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post #2823 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 02:03 AM
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Joined this forum to seek advise & help...

I have exchanged X4000 to SR7008, connected and set it up with the help from member SanchoPanza.
I have been reading all the expertise & experiences from this thread, especially jdsmoothie.

Now may I ask a few questions, as I know very little to nothing about audio & HT system.

After run Audyssey, the crossover for the front is 40Hz, center is 60Hz, and rear 40Hz, SW 120Hz (LFE), and all speakers are set to small. The front was large but I have changed to small.
Are above mentioned figures correct? do I need to make any adjustment? 6 ohms or 8 ohms?


This is what I have...
Front: Martin Logan SL3
Center: Martin Logan Cinema
Rear: Martin Logan Script
SW: Rel Storm III
Classe CAV150 & Marantz SR7008. Only use the pro-out from SR7008.

Thank you all for your time!

Jim
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post #2824 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
hi

i had owned a marantz sr5008 avr 2 months back. the unit was setup using auddysey. but some how i don't feel the bass/woofer is good enough. by playing the same mp3 song, i can feel the song play on my PC altec lansing speaker more punchy and better compare to the song play by sr5008 avr which output to wharfedale speaker.

is there something i missed out here on the AVR setup??

thanks in advance...
zenzenjiajia,

When you play the tune via the PC and into the altec lansing speaker (model number?) what is your setup and how far away are the speakers from the listening position? If it is near field, you'll have to compensate. Have you done a frequency sweep with this setup using a calibrated mic and REW? You might find a bass hump that colors the sound and something that you like.

What type of setup have you got connected to the SR5008? Is the room and listening position the same for the PC system? What sub have you connected to the SR5008?

A sketch of the room and setup would be appreciated.

Have you tried increasing the dB level in the Audyssey setup menu? Some bass happy people like to do this for taste.

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post #2825 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
hi

i had owned a marantz sr5008 avr 2 months back. the unit was setup using auddysey. but some how i don't feel the bass/woofer is good enough. by playing the same mp3 song, i can feel the song play on my PC altec lansing speaker more punchy and better compare to the song play by sr5008 avr which output to wharfedale speaker.

is there something i missed out here on the AVR setup??

thanks in advance...

If you have a dedicated subwoofer, ensure your FL/FR speakers are set to SMALL/80Hz.

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post #2826 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1290 View Post
Joined this forum to seek advise & help...

I have exchanged X4000 to SR7008, connected and set it up with the help from member SanchoPanza.
I have been reading all the expertise & experiences from this thread, especially jdsmoothie.

Now may I ask a few questions, as I know very little to nothing about audio & HT system.

After run Audyssey, the crossover for the front is 40Hz, center is 60Hz, and rear 40Hz, SW 120Hz (LFE), and all speakers are set to small. The front was large but I have changed to small.
Are above mentioned figures correct? do I need to make any adjustment? 6 ohms or 8 ohms?


This is what I have...
Front: Martin Logan SL3
Center: Martin Logan Cinema
Rear: Martin Logan Script
SW: Rel Storm III
Classe CAV150 & Marantz SR7008. Only use the pro-out from SR7008.

Thank you all for your time!

Jim
Raise the speaker crossovers to either 60Hz or 80Hz. No adjustment to impedance 6/8 ohm required.

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post #2827 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 05:56 AM
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Audyssey Set-up

A couple of different posters have recently written to ask for advice/troubleshooting assistance with respect to Audyssey. I would strongly encourage anyone new to Audyssey, or anyone who thinks he may need some troubleshooting help, to start by reading the FAQ linked below. That represents the accumulated experience and wisdom of hundreds of Audyssey users, compiled over a period of several years. It will answer almost any question you can think of in a pretty straightforward way. And then if you do have some specific issue which the FAQ didn't cover, it will make troubleshooting much easier because you will have started with a good basic set-up and calibration.


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post #2828 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 06:06 AM
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Thank you jdsmoothie!

I am certain that I will have more questions about SR7008 in the near future.
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post #2829 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Help me understand your setup. From your post, the current speaker configuration is as follows.

(1) Soundbar beneath the TV (individual left, center, right, left surround & right surround channels) with individual power terminals. Make and model number? Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. I.e. this would require 5 amps to drive the sound bar.
(2) Left of TV. One LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(3) Right of TV. Another LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(4) Surround Left. In-ceiling type. Make and model number? Single channel?
(5) Surround Right. In-ceiling type. Make and model number? Single channel?
(6) Surround Back Left. One LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(7) Surround Back Right. One LCR soundbar consisting of three channels for left, center and right. Each channel can be connected to a separate amp. Make and model number? I.e. this would require 3 amps to drive the sound bar.
(8) Do you have a sub? Make and model number?

If the above number of channels are correct, then the number of amps needed to drive all your speakers is = 5(Soundbar beneath the TV)+3(Left of TV)+3(Right of TV)+1(Surround Left)+1(Surround Right)+3(Surround Back Left)+3(Surround Back Right)=19 amps!
Steve, Thank you for your input. In the past few days I have learned a valuable lesson about the SR7008. Let me clarify some things about my speaker arrangement. I am one of those people who holds enough paranoia about the internet and personal information being harvested that I choose not to disclose the details (brand/model) of my home theater. But I will explain my speakers as such:
1) Soundbar - 5 channel soundbar with 5 speaker terminals.
2 & 3) LCR speakers, not soundbars. Individual speakers with single pair of +/- terminals. These are typically low profile, thin speakers that can be used as a left, center, or right speaker at the front of a room alongside your monitor.
4 & 5) Single channel speakers in these positions.
6 & 7) LCR speakers. I chose to use these at the rear of the room as they could be mounted on-wall and they are only a couple inches deep so they do not protrude from the wall like a small bookshelf speaker would
8) Subwoofers - Yes I have two, each of which are connected to the LFE outputs on the receiver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
As jdsmoothie says, the analogue inputs into the SR-7008 are discrete channels and goes straight to the speaker terminals. I'd run Audyssey at your Main Listening Position. Then do comparison test(s) to that of your BR player (make and model number?) in both digital and analogue modes. You'll find there to be notable sound quality difference between the two. Only you can decide which one is preferable.
I had made the incorrect assumption that the receiver would use the front left and right inputs and output those signals to all three of the front L/R speaker terminals. Now that I know that is not the case I will change which front speakers are plugged into the front, front height, and front width outputs to get the soundstage I want. The room that this HT is in is relatively small so I set it up by ear using the test tones. I did not use Audyssey because after owning a couple different Denon receivers and this Marantz, it is my understanding that once the Audyssey setup has been done, you cannot adjust the speaker settings to tailor the sound to your liking. I say that because I did not read anything in the owners manuals that showed changes could be made to the room setup following an Audyssey setup. Even without Audyssey setup I already hear a very noticeable difference between the sound of music when I let the BR player do the digital-analog conversion versus sending the signal digitally to the receiver and letting the receiver do the D/A conversion. I much prefer the BR conversion because it sounds much cleaner with a better balance across the audio spectrum. When I listen to music that the receiver is converting it sounds muddy and there seems to be too much bass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
For all up-scaling of two channel stereo to multi-channel output, the SR-7008 needs to have digital input.
Lesson learned.

JR
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post #2830 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 09:12 AM
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Adjusting Speaker Settings

^^^

You actually can manually adjust speaker settings (crossovers, distances, and trim levels) post Audyssey without affecting the filters that Audyssey implemented in any way. The reason that I have suggested looking at the FAQ is because issues like that are covered in a simple question and answer format. I personally think that the Marantz owners manuals leave a lot to be desired, and I have heard that Denon is worse. That is particularly the case with respect to Audyssey which is a pretty sophisticated proprietary technology which is simply leased to, and implemented by, the manufactures of the AVR's.

Most of us can't get a really good calibration without a decent understanding of how we can and can't tweak things, both with respect to initial set-up, and post calibration. It's a great technology, but it takes a little work to dial it in. Well worth the effort, though, IMO.


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post #2831 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 04:19 PM
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so I bought a 5008 from A4L and am 99% happy with it. One issue. a few times I've put on WPTS out of Pittsburgh (over internet) and either walked away leaving it as background noise and/or fell asleep. When coming back it will be on WBCN or WRNR (which are other stations in my favorites list)

Does this happen if WPTS goes off the air for the night? Or is this an issue with my receiver?

Again, I'm in NoVA so I'm streaming these stations, not receiving them through my antenna (if I am listening to the radio OTA, my antenna is actually hooked to a Sangean HDT-1X, I don't use the tuner in the 5008.

thanks!
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post #2832 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 05:21 PM
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^^
More likely an issue with the AVR as it should not change stations on it's own. Try a soft reset by unplugging the unit for 10 minutes.
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post #2833 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by They_call_me_Roto View Post
Steve, Thank you for your input. In the past few days I have learned a valuable lesson about the SR7008. Let me clarify some things about my speaker arrangement. I am one of those people who holds enough paranoia about the internet and personal information being harvested that I choose not to disclose the details (brand/model) of my home theater. But I will explain my speakers as such:
Understand the privacy concerns, after Edward Snowden blew the whistle on what the NSA does for a living.

Quote:
Originally Posted by They_call_me_Roto View Post
1) Soundbar - 5 channel soundbar with 5 speaker terminals.
2 & 3) LCR speakers, not soundbars. Individual speakers with single pair of +/- terminals. These are typically low profile, thin speakers that can be used as a left, center, or right speaker at the front of a room alongside your monitor.
4 & 5) Single channel speakers in these positions.
6 & 7) LCR speakers. I chose to use these at the rear of the room as they could be mounted on-wall and they are only a couple inches deep so they do not protrude from the wall like a small bookshelf speaker would
8) Subwoofers - Yes I have two, each of which are connected to the LFE outputs on the receiver.
Thanks for the clarification. So your left + right and all your surrounds are single channel transducers thus require only a single amp. The only complication is your soundbar beneath the TV which has 5 transducers. That means your speaker setup is 5+2+2+2=11 channels. The SR7008 has sufficient processing for all 11 channels, but only 9 amps to drive all your transducers. The question is how you intend to wire them up. Below is a sketch of what's recommended based on your listening position.


You should be aiming for the correct 7.2 speaker arrangement first (labelled as 7.1 in the above sketch), then try out the heights and wides to suite your listening taste (the red additional speakers). Note the angles relative to the Main Listening Position (MLP) on plan view. Refer to page 30 of your SR7008 owner's manual for the section view of the speaker setup angles. See attached image.


Check the orientation of your front left and front right transducers. The design of some speaker manufacturers must have the speaker vertically arranged to reproduce the correct sound field. If the speaker is horizontally arranged, interference patterns will result in comb filtering and produce the dreaded lobing issue. The same for your surrounds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by They_call_me_Roto View Post
I had made the incorrect assumption that the receiver would use the front left and right inputs and output those signals to all three of the front L/R speaker terminals. Now that I know that is not the case I will change which front speakers are plugged into the front, front height, and front width outputs to get the soundstage I want. The room that this HT is in is relatively small so I set it up by ear using the test tones. I did not use Audyssey because after owning a couple different Denon receivers and this Marantz, it is my understanding that once the Audyssey setup has been done, you cannot adjust the speaker settings to tailor the sound to your liking. I say that because I did not read anything in the owners manuals that showed changes could be made to the room setup following an Audyssey setup. Even without Audyssey setup I already hear a very noticeable difference between the sound of music when I let the BR player do the digital-analog conversion versus sending the signal digitally to the receiver and letting the receiver do the D/A conversion. I much prefer the BR conversion because it sounds much cleaner with a better balance across the audio spectrum. When I listen to music that the receiver is converting it sounds muddy and there seems to be too much bass.
You didn't mention what previous Denon models you had before, but the version of Audyssey on the SR7008 is the top end XT32 with sub EQ HT. It has significant more filters than previous versions and can equalize two subs. Try out the following close microphone pattern at your listening position. Use a microphone boom stand with your Audyssey mic as it gives more consistent/repeatable results and ensure you're at least 24" away from reflective walls.
* 1st position is Main Listening Position (MLP) at center of your head.
* 2nd position is 3 inches forward of MLP
* 3rd position is 3 inches up of MLP
* 4th position is 3 inches up & 3 inches forward of MLP
* 5th position is 3 inches left of MLP
* 6th position is 3 inches right of MLP
* 7th position is 6 inches left of MLP
* 8th position is 6 inches right of MLP

Within Marantz Audyssey menu, there are a few options to customize the sound. This includes front left/right speaker bypass and Graphic EQ with the ability to manually adjust a 9 band graphic equalizer for each speaker. See page 165 of your SR7008 owner's manual. You also have tone adjustments, center width, center gain, panorama, dimension, DSX, M-DAX, reference level offset and dynamic volume settings to play with.

A lot of options to customize the sound to your taste. If you've touched nothing after Audyssey setup, it makes everything sound flat as possible in the room - which can sound boring to some.

Might be the reason why you're hearing muddy bass. When I adjusted the reference level offset from 0dB to 15dB, the bass was more clean and tighter. I liked it better there when playing tunes. When watching BR movies, I turn it back to 0dB as that is the correct reference standard.

If you've noticed a sound difference between your BR player's DAC and the Marantz DAC (this is the only difference I can think of from what you're describing), carry out a frequency sweep using REW (it's free) and a calibrated USB microphone from Cross Spectrum Labs here: http://www.cross-spectrum.com/ to verify what you're hearing is true and not due to placebo affect.

The step-by-step guide on how to carry out room measurements has been generously written by AVS member Jerry Austin here: Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs, it is a treasure trove of insights.

Once you get the hang of it, the ability to measure and correct for sound quality improvements become valuable. For instance Audyssey doesn't do a very good job at the crossover (the splice between your speakers and sub). Some adjustments in the sub(s) distance is/are needed to ensure the smoothest transition and to do this you would need to carry out some measurements. It can't be done by ear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by They_call_me_Roto View Post
Lesson learned.
Sorry to hear about this. But if you're willing to experiment and learn, there are a lot of possibilities there for you.
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Last edited by steveting99; 08-24-2014 at 06:11 PM. Reason: typo and clarification on the speaker setup
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post #2834 of 2965 Old 08-14-2014, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
zenzenjiajia,

When you play the tune via the PC and into the altec lansing speaker (model number?) what is your setup and how far away are the speakers from the listening position? If it is near field, you'll have to compensate. Have you done a frequency sweep with this setup using a calibrated mic and REW? You might find a bass hump that colors the sound and something that you like.

What type of setup have you got connected to the SR5008? Is the room and listening position the same for the PC system? What sub have you connected to the SR5008?

A sketch of the room and setup would be appreciated.

Have you tried increasing the dB level in the Audyssey setup menu? Some bass happy people like to do this for taste.
for PC, in a living room, on working desk
i am using altec lansing vs4621, 2.1 speaker. place beside the monitor. distance around 2 feet

for AVR, in living hall
FL/FR - wharfedale diamond 10.2
surround - wharfedale diamond 10.1
center - wharfedale diamond 10cs
sub - wharfedale spc-10

distance of FL/FR and sub to listening position around 10 feet.

FL/FR speakers already change to small, but the crossover was at 40Hz (value set from auddysey), should i change it to 80Hz?

regarding below questions, how to to it? sorry quite new to HT
Have you done a frequency sweep with this setup using a calibrated mic and REW?
-comment:so far i only run the auddysey by placing the mic on the few listening position, are you referring to this?
Have you tried increasing the dB level in the Audyssey setup menu?
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post #2835 of 2965 Old 08-15-2014, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
for PC, in a living room, on working desk
i am using altec lansing vs4621, 2.1 speaker. place beside the monitor. distance around 2 feet
Welcome to AVS! Apologies for not greeting in the earlier post.

Your PC speaker setup differs as it is near field and the room interaction is different when it comes to sound reproduction - depending how far away from the walls the speakers are. Because the PC speakers are close by, the direct sound waves going to your ears is more than the reflected ones coming from the walls. That is why it would sound different to that of your living hall where the AVR is located and with another type of speakers (Altec Lansing vs. Wharfedale). You probably have the Altec Lansing 6.5" sub close by (about 2"?) and thus would feel the bass more present. If you placed the sub further away, the bass would be less pronounced. Run a pink noise test on your PC setup and calibrate to 75dB - using an inexpensive radio shack sound power level (SPL) handheld meter. This should be the same SPL that Audyssey sets to in your living room.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
for AVR, in living hall
FL/FR - wharfedale diamond 10.2
surround - wharfedale diamond 10.1
center - wharfedale diamond 10cs
sub - wharfedale spc-10

distance of FL/FR and sub to listening position around 10 feet.

FL/FR speakers already change to small, but the crossover was at 40Hz (value set from auddysey), should i change it to 80Hz?

regarding below questions, how to to it? sorry quite new to HT
Have you done a frequency sweep with this setup using a calibrated mic and REW?
-comment:so far i only run the auddysey by placing the mic on the few listening position, are you referring to this?
Have you tried increasing the dB level in the Audyssey setup menu?
(1) Try placing the sub nearfield. I.e. same distance as your PC sub. Re-run Audyssey due to this revised location. On the sub, have the phase set to 0 deg. Gain at 12 o'clock position. Run the sub out from your Marantz SR-5008 to the LFE input of the sub.
(2) Look at the previous posts regarding speaker placement relative to the listening position. What you want is an equilateral triangle for at least the FL/FR speakers. The tweeters should be at ear height. If you make any speaker placement adjustments, re-run Audyssey.
(3) Your wharfedale diamond 10.2 F3 (lower -3dB) rating is 40Hz. The wharfedale diamond 10.1 F3 is 48Hz and the wharfedale diamond 10cs is 70Hz. Try setting them to small in the speaker setup menu and common crossover of 80Hz for all.
(4) When carrying out the Audyssey setup, did you use a mic boom stand? This is highly recommended as it gives a more consistent result. When carrying out Audyssey setup, be sure to there is sufficient gap to nearby wall surfaces as reflections will be an issue. I'd have at least 12" and more if possible. Try the close mic position pattern given in the previous post.
(5) In the Marantz audio menu, there is a tab for the sub setting. When you carried out the Audyssey setup, hopefully it's giving a negative dB value for the sub. Just raise the number up by +3dB at first to see if the bass is more to your liking.
(6) Check that you've engaged Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume. Play with the Dyn Vol setting as well as the reference level offset from 0dB up to 15dB.
(7) REW in-room measurements. This is different and a bit more advanced than the simple Audyssey setup using it's supplied mic. You can do this once you've got the basic setup correct. See previous post for some details. A sketch of your room layout would be helpful.

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Last edited by steveting99; 08-15-2014 at 12:37 AM. Reason: additional text added for clarity
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post #2836 of 2965 Old 08-15-2014, 12:38 AM
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How do I select HDMI sources without powering up SR7008?
It doesn't give much choices.
I have a Popcorn Hour A400, is it correct just connect to media player HDMI on the SR7008? Do I need optical or coaxial cable to go along with it?

Thank you very much!

Jim
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post #2837 of 2965 Old 08-15-2014, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Welcome to AVS! Apologies for not greeting in the earlier post.

Your PC speaker setup differs as it is near field and the room interaction is different when it comes to sound reproduction - depending how far away from the walls the speakers are. Because the PC speakers are close by, the direct sound waves going to your ears is more than the reflected ones coming from the walls. That is why it would sound different to that of your living hall where the AVR is located and with another type of speakers (Altec Lansing vs. Wharfedale). You probably have the Altec Lansing 6.5" sub close by (about 2"?) and thus would feel the bass more present. If you placed the sub further away, the bass would be less pronounced. Run a pink noise test on your PC setup and calibrate to 75dB - using an inexpensive radio shack sound power level (SPL) handheld meter. This should be the same SPL that Audyssey sets to in your living room.



(1) Try placing the sub nearfield. I.e. same distance as your PC sub. Re-run Audyssey due to this revised location. On the sub, have the phase set to 0 deg. Gain at 12 o'clock position. Run the sub out from your Marantz SR-5008 to the LFE input of the sub.
(2) Look at the previous posts regarding speaker placement relative to the listening position. What you want is an equilateral triangle for at least the FL/FR speakers. The tweeters should be at ear height. If you make any speaker placement adjustments, re-run Audyssey.
(3) Your wharfedale diamond 10.2 F3 (lower -3dB) rating is 40Hz. The wharfedale diamond 10.1 F3 is 48Hz and the wharfedale diamond 10cs is 70Hz. Try setting them to small in the speaker setup menu and common crossover of 80Hz for all.
(4) When carrying out the Audyssey setup, did you use a mic boom stand? This is highly recommended as it gives a more consistent result. When carrying out Audyssey setup, be sure to there is sufficient gap to nearby wall surfaces as reflections will be an issue. I'd have at least 12" and more if possible. Try the close mic position pattern given in the previous post.
(5) In the Marantz audio menu, there is a tab for the sub setting. When you carried out the Audyssey setup, hopefully it's giving a negative dB value for the sub. Just raise the number up by +3dB at first to see if the bass is more to your liking.
(6) Check that you've engaged Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume. Play with the Dyn Vol setting as well as the reference level offset from 0dB up to 15dB.
(7) REW in-room measurements. This is different and a bit more advanced than the simple Audyssey setup using it's supplied mic. You can do this once you've got the basic setup correct. See previous post for some details. A sketch of your room layout would be helpful.
1) existing setup already in such way
2) i had attached the sketch diagram. for your further advice
3) speaker already set to small, just change the front crossover to 80Hz, now seems more punchy
4) i used tripod when place the the mic during run auddysey. position was in the sketch diagram
5) original is -10db, previously already increase to -2.0. can't feel the significant change on bass
6) currently was at 0db.will try to play with it.
7) i think leave this option to the last..
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post #2838 of 2965 Old 08-15-2014, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
1) existing setup already in such way
2) i had attached the sketch diagram. for your further advice
3) speaker already set to small, just change the front crossover to 80Hz, now seems more punchy
4) i used tripod when place the the mic during run auddysey. position was in the sketch diagram
5) original is -10db, previously already increase to -2.0. can't feel the significant change on bass
6) currently was at 0db.will try to play with it.
7) i think leave this option to the last..
(1) Are you flexible in the layout? From front to the back wall, try either the 38% MLP to see if there are improvements to the sound quality. Generally you'd want the front wall to be the short length of the room with the left and right speakers at 0.25L positions from the side walls.
(2) Based on your speaker position and MLP, what are the front and side wall dimensions? How tall is your ceiling? Would like to know the total volume of the room that the sub has to displace to re-produce the low frequencies. Check that the total volume is within the limits of what the sub can re-produce cleanly; i.e. minimal distortion. As your sub is corner loaded, it's most likely exciting all the room modes and you're experiencing peaks/nulls in the bass depending at your listening position. Try the sub woofer crawl as outlined here:
or try placing the sub at either 0.25L or 0.5L wall lengths, or consider two sub solution.
Are you able to place the sub behind your sofa?

(4) Tripod is okay. Did you re-run the Audyssey setup with the close mic positions as outlined in post 2,833?

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post #2839 of 2965 Old 08-15-2014, 08:35 AM
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Steve,

You wrote a whole series of really good posts here. Very helpful stuff! One thing I wanted to clarify is the use of Graphic EQ. I know you already know this, but of the various adjustment options you listed, this is the only one which will disable Audyssey. Frankly, there are so many potential adjustment options for dealing with too-bright sound, or muddy bass, or too much or too little bass, that it is hard to know where to start in describing them. Fortunately, many of them are already collated in the FAQ, and I sort of like troubleshooting from that starting point. But I greatly admire your patience and attention to detail.

Mike


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post #2840 of 2965 Old 08-15-2014, 12:07 PM
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No OSD for network and internet radio

My SR5008 does show OSD on the TV for USB but not for network and internet radio. The receiver is connected to the TV with a HDMI cable only.What am I missing?
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post #2841 of 2965 Old 08-15-2014, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
(1) Are you flexible in the layout? From front to the back wall, try either the 38% MLP to see if there are improvements to the sound quality. Generally you'd want the front wall to be the short length of the room with the left and right speakers at 0.25L positions from the side walls.
(2) Based on your speaker position and MLP, what are the front and side wall dimensions? How tall is your ceiling? Would like to know the total volume of the room that the sub has to displace to re-produce the low frequencies. Check that the total volume is within the limits of what the sub can re-produce cleanly; i.e. minimal distortion. As your sub is corner loaded, it's most likely exciting all the room modes and you're experiencing peaks/nulls in the bass depending at your listening position. Try the sub woofer crawl as outlined here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3oLLMgS-M or try placing the sub at either 0.25L or 0.5L wall lengths, or consider two sub solution.
Are you able to place the sub behind your sofa?

(4) Tripod is okay. Did you re-run the Audyssey setup with the close mic positions as outlined in post 2,833?
1) mind to explain more details about 38% MLP? basically the cable already fixed and quite hard to relocate the speaker. what is the measurement L stand for?the living hall is open concept, the distance between FR speaker to side wall is about 5.5 feet, but there is no wall on the FL speaker.

2) since it's open concept type of living hall, the "room" volume will be huge, something 17 feet (width) x 50 feet (length) x 10 feet (height). but if we just specifically focus on living hall, the volume will be 17 feet (width) x 17 feet(length) x 10 feet (height), please take note there is no wall after the FL speaker.
i can't do sub crawl as the cable is not flexible enough

4) it seems very challenging to me as the measurement in inch, which is very small distance and hard to get it position correctly.

basically, after i change the front speaker crossover from 40Hz to 80Hz, i can feel the bass is already more punchier, will try current setup for few days with various source input, then only will see how can i adapt above recommendation into my current HT setup. Thanks steve for your great help.
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post #2842 of 2965 Old 08-16-2014, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luchou View Post
My SR5008 does show OSD on the TV for USB but not for network and internet radio. The receiver is connected to the TV with a HDMI cable only.What am I missing?

18. Network GUI does not display: A few owners have had this issue which can be resolved by either replacing the unit or trying the below procedure which worked for forum member GoodMan:

Starting with the unit already powered up and (any) NETWORK source selected;
a. Verify from the unit's front panel display that the source is indeed the network,
and the monitor device (TV) is not showing the network GUI.
b. Imagine a line at the back panel just above where the hdmi connectors are that extends across the unit from left to right side.
c. Repeatly exert some moderate finger pressure on the unit's back panel along the imaginary line while watching the output video device until the network GUI displays.

If still no joy, try loosening the screws at the back that attaches the cover to the back panel to give it more "give", then repeat the above process.

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post #2843 of 2965 Old 08-16-2014, 04:09 AM
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I am using the Classe CAV150 to power all 5 channels, except SW.
Is it better to use the Classe just for the front two speakers and use the SR7008 for other 3 channels?

Why my TV & Sat/Cable sounded quite low through SR7008?
I have connected HDMI Main to TV, and plus an optical cable.

Thank you very much!
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post #2844 of 2965 Old 08-16-2014, 04:11 AM
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What is OSD? It's early,
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post #2845 of 2965 Old 08-16-2014, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1290 View Post
I am using the Classe CAV150 to power all 5 channels, except SW.
Is it better to use the Classe just for the front two speakers and use the SR7008 for other 3 channels?

Why my TV & Sat/Cable sounded quite low through SR7008?
I have connected HDMI Main to TV, and plus an optical cable.
1. With it only powering the FL/FR there is more power available although surrounds don't draw much power so not likely much difference either way.
2. Average volume levels for most external sources will be 50-60/-30db to -20db.

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post #2846 of 2965 Old 08-16-2014, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senojhrj1 View Post
What is OSD? It's early,
OSD = On screen display (ie. the AVR menu that displays on your TV)

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post #2847 of 2965 Old 08-16-2014, 05:35 AM
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Thank you jdsmoothie! You are very helpful
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post #2848 of 2965 Old 08-17-2014, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
1) mind to explain more details about 38% MLP? basically the cable already fixed and quite hard to relocate the speaker. what is the measurement L stand for?the living hall is open concept, the distance between FR speaker to side wall is about 5.5 feet, but there is no wall on the FL speaker.
L represents length. In a rectangular room there is the front to back wall length, side to side wall length and floor to ceiling length. The low frequency standing waves in a room will produces peaks and nulls at it's fundamental and harmonics for each room length. These are know as axial room modes. The listening position needs to be in between these peaks and nulls. A good starting point is 38% of room length.

Most house/apartment have walls, floors and ceilings to protect from outside elements, there should be a boundaries on all sides in your listening room. These boundaries would determine the total volume of the room.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
2) since it's open concept type of living hall, the "room" volume will be huge, something 17 feet (width) x 50 feet (length) x 10 feet (height). but if we just specifically focus on living hall, the volume will be 17 feet (width) x 17 feet(length) x 10 feet (height), please take note there is no wall after the FL speaker.
i can't do sub crawl as the cable is not flexible enough
Based on your room dimensions, the total volume is 8,500 cu. ft. That's a lot of air that a single sub has to move to produce the low frequencies. Bass acts like a wave, is omni-directional until it hits the nearest surface and interacts. This large room volume is the main issue of why the bass is not meeting expectations compared to the PC setup.

A wireless transmitter/receiver such as this: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-W...r+receiver+kit might open some possibilities for you in sub placement. For such a large room volume and a single sub, a near field placement should be considered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zenzenjiajia View Post
4) it seems very challenging to me as the measurement in inch, which is very small distance and hard to get it position correctly.

basically, after i change the front speaker crossover from 40Hz to 80Hz, i can feel the bass is already more punchier, will try current setup for few days with various source input, then only will see how can i adapt above recommendation into my current HT setup. Thanks steve for your great help.
A close mic measurement position while doing the Audyssey setup seems give more consistent results. A mic boom stand like this one will help: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

By all means enjoy your system as there's an improvement in sound quality. Later on you can experiment some more and see if more improvements can be made.

Maranatz NR1504, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, LG LW6500, aTV, WDTV Live, Harmony 650 remote, KEF E301, MiniDSP(2x4), Rythmik F12G

Last edited by steveting99; 08-17-2014 at 06:41 PM. Reason: typo and clarification on the setup
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post #2849 of 2965 Old 08-18-2014, 01:25 PM
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I am using Marantz sr5008 with Toshiba 46wl863, WDTVLIVEHUB and a Cisco 4682 DVB SetTopBox (Cable TV tuner/decoder).


I am using HDMI ARC for TV sound, WD unit is connected to the SR5008 via HDMI and the SetTopBox directly to the TV.


Everitthing worked great for some time, apart from sound from cable tv (CISCO unit) muting for a part of a second every few minutes or longer, but this was not so important.
For no particular reason I started experiencing no sound issues a few days ago - no sound through none of the inputs, and as from today, there is no picture through the Marantz either.


The first time this happened, I disconnected and reconnected the HDMI cable from TV to the AVR, and it worked normally for a couple of days.
Today, unplugging the devices and HDMI, I got sound on TUNER and NETWORK RADIO, but no video, no on-screen menu. I could display only the Marantz logo, when I set video out to some other input which has no physical connection (i.e. game), but no on screen menu.


I swithed HDMI control to off, but after this, I could change any of the settings, since there was no response from the remote, even on the tiny display of the unit.


After the Unit was reset to default settings (holding power+sone2+ mdax), I got video and sound again, but in the middle of Automatic Speaker setup, sound stopped coming from the speakers again.


Any advice on how to solve this issue?
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post #2850 of 2965 Old 08-18-2014, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
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I am using Marantz sr5008 with Toshiba 46wl863, WDTVLIVEHUB and a Cisco 4682 DVB SetTopBox (Cable TV tuner/decoder).


I am using HDMI ARC for TV sound, WD unit is connected to the SR5008 via HDMI and the SetTopBox directly to the TV.
Hi AVSnewbie123,

Welcome to AVS! ARC had given me a lot of grief and I've switched it off. Most TV sets which receive DD over the air broadcast will down grade into 2.0 and cause handshake issues over HDMI. Since you've got the Cisco DVB, I'd use that as the main source.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AVSnewbie123 View Post
Everitthing worked great for some time, apart from sound from cable tv (CISCO unit) muting for a part of a second every few minutes or longer, but this was not so important.
For no particular reason I started experiencing no sound issues a few days ago - no sound through none of the inputs, and as from today, there is no picture through the Marantz either.


The first time this happened, I disconnected and reconnected the HDMI cable from TV to the AVR, and it worked normally for a couple of days.
Today, unplugging the devices and HDMI, I got sound on TUNER and NETWORK RADIO, but no video, no on-screen menu. I could display only the Marantz logo, when I set video out to some other input which has no physical connection (i.e. game), but no on screen menu.


I swithed HDMI control to off, but after this, I could change any of the settings, since there was no response from the remote, even on the tiny display of the unit.


After the Unit was reset to default settings (holding power+sone2+ mdax), I got video and sound again, but in the middle of Automatic Speaker setup, sound stopped coming from the speakers again.


Any advice on how to solve this issue?
While the best person to answer this is jdsmoothie, I'd try a soft reset. Unplug the power for about an hour. See if you're able to run Audyssey setup again.

The SR5008 has an ethernet port and if your router is nearby, connect to it via hard wire. Once you've gone through Audyssey setup, via the PC web interface, connect to your SR5008 through it's IP address. Save your settings on the PC so that if something goes wrong again in the future, you can reload your settings without going through the entire setup again. It will save all your custom settings also. It is a useful and time saving feature.

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