Official Pioneer SC-75/77/79 Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 998 Old 10-04-2014, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LairdWilliams View Post
In general, it is a bad idea to have an amplifier turned on with no load. You had a brief period where you did that to the center channel amp on your unit. In older systems with no safety circuitry, you might have cooked the power amp for the center channel if you played anything for a long time. The completely free flow of electrons through the system (the speaker load is what keeps the electron flow from becoming "free" in the first place) would have caused a heat build-up and fried it.

I doubt you damaged your system. Most modern units, including the Pioneers, have sensing circuits that cut things off when they get too hot so you don't melt anything. If it is still sounding and working fine, I would no be too concerned. It probably got a bit hotter than normal and you probably smelled a little ozone, but not hot enough for long enough to do any damage. If it sounds fine you should be good.

Just do yourself a favor and never "lie" to your amp again by telling it to expect a speaker where there isn't one. Current still flows in the amp even when the speaker wire is not connected or when you are careful not to short the wires. In fact, MORE current flows in the power amp the lower the load. A zero load is essentially an open circuit, which is bad. It is always better to not count on the safety circuitry.
Strange! I guess I always assumed that an electronics device like this would be able to detect if a speaker was attached (which is why I was worried about just having the cables attached, in case, somehow, the resistance of the wire was enough to make it think a speaker was attached).

Anyway, yes, it seems to be working fine now, and not generating a smell. I have a feeling, like you said, something was getting hot...(the smell gave me quite a headache, too).

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post #992 of 998 Old 10-04-2014, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andytrackk View Post
Strange! I guess I always assumed that an electronics device like this would be able to detect if a speaker was attached (which is why I was worried about just having the cables attached, in case, somehow, the resistance of the wire was enough to make it think a speaker was attached).

Anyway, yes, it seems to be working fine now, and not generating a smell. I have a feeling, like you said, something was getting hot...(the smell gave me quite a headache, too).
The SC 7x series does have a speaker detector, but it is applied only of you run full-auto MCACC, which includes a speaker config section. If you override this manually or just set the speaker config yourself, however, then it takes you at your word.

Display: Panasonic P60UT50 (Plasma)
Speakers: (4) Monitor Audio Silver 9i (Front and Surround), (1) Monitor Audio Silver 12i (Center), (4) Monitor Audio Silver 4i (Rear and Wide), (2) Aperion Audio Bravus II 8d (Subwoofers)
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-77 AVR (9.2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103, Roku 3, Cable...
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post #993 of 998 Old 10-04-2014, 03:36 PM
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New SC-LX77 owner here - was fortunate to be able to grab an "end of life" unit for a good price.

I'm a touch concerned about some of the video functionality, though. I am coming from a series of Onkyos (all of which have gone pfutt shortly after warranty!) and perhaps am just not used to Pioneer. Or maybe this is a Friday afternoon unit.

Basically, on my Onkyo, I could tell it that I wanted to output at 1080p, and it'd upscale anything lower, but respect framerate (24,50,60hz). So, if PlayStation is outputting 720p60 it becomes 1080p60. If HTPC is outputting 1080p50 it stays 1080p50. If Playstation is outputting 1080p24 it stays at 24hz.

On the LX77, the "auto" setting insists on outputting 720p when PS3 renders 720p which triggers different calibration stuff on the TV, plus I'm not a massive fan of the Panasonic TV scaler vs Qdeo (or Vida in Onkyo). I can force 1080p by selecting 1080p on v.conv res setting, but then it doesn't respect 24hz. If I select 1080p24 on that menu, then all sources are down-converted to 24hz. The only solution I can see is to manually adjust it depending on what I'm feeding in, but the mrs won't like that!

Next we have something of a killer - black levels. With v.conv enabled, the black levels seem more-or-less as I'd expect (ie. similar to connecting TV direct to source) - ie. RGB normal. With v.conv disabled or Standby Passthru, black level drops to RGB-full. The effect is that everything becomes darker and shadow detail is lost. This is a problem, because the obvious solution to the 1080p24 thing is to turn off v.conv when watching 24hz blu-rays. It *may* be that 24hz blu-rays aren't RGB so won't exhibit the problem (most of my sources are RGB by default), but that's harder to confirm.

Is all this normal?

At the moment, all I can do is run the system with v.conv on all the time (despite the Pioneer manual hinting that you may prefer it off) with either auto, 1080p, or 1080p24 depending on material. Fiddly.

Also, has anyone overcome the lack of definable inputs on the remote? I'm currently "wasting" TV, CD, iPod, Tuner, MHL and so on, whilst trying to feed in 6 HDMI sources. There are basically only 4 properly definable buttons as far as I can see?

Finally, is there any way to switch volume presentation into 0-100 rather than 11 to -70db notation? I find the latter overly complex, and again trying to explain why volume is negative to the good lady is, well, "interesting". I know the Onkyo offered both via a config option.


PS, am loving the audio quality, so don't want to sound like a moaning-minnie, but it's just that the video and general usability seems a big step back from my (2.5 year!) old Onkyo.
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post #994 of 998 Old 10-06-2014, 08:30 AM
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networking help

Having trouble with the networking on my SC-77. Basically can't get airplay to consistently work from iTunes Winodws PCs on my network. It will show the SC-77 available and I've got my router set to give that mac a specific IP address. Unit is connected to a wireless bridge with plenty of bandwidth (ASUS AC87U router to ASUS AC68U router configed as media bridge).

I think the problem is with the SC-77. Streaming performance to other devices on that bridge is flawless. I've done 4K Netflix to the tv with no issue. Same with the XBOX One and DirecTV. No issues downloading or streaming HD content. Everyone gets an IP and just works. The 77 will seem to have an IP but often drops out of site. I can't even PING it. Is there anything I can do to either reset it or make it work consistently. I have it connect with DHCP and no proxy. Are they working on this firmware? I see it hasn't been updated this year.

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post #995 of 998 Old 10-07-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LairdWilliams View Post
In general, it is a bad idea to have an amplifier turned on with no load. You had a brief period where you did that to the center channel amp on your unit. In older systems with no safety circuitry, you might have cooked the power amp for the center channel if you played anything for a long time. The completely free flow of electrons through the system (the speaker load is what keeps the electron flow from becoming "free" in the first place) would have caused a heat build-up and fried it.

I doubt you damaged your system. Most modern units, including the Pioneers, have sensing circuits that cut things off when they get too hot so you don't melt anything. If it is still sounding and working fine, I would no be too concerned. It probably got a bit hotter than normal and you probably smelled a little ozone, but not hot enough for long enough to do any damage. If it sounds fine you should be good.

Just do yourself a favor and never "lie" to your amp again by telling it to expect a speaker where there isn't one. Current still flows in the amp even when the speaker wire is not connected or when you are careful not to short the wires. In fact, MORE current flows in the power amp the lower the load. A zero load is essentially an open circuit, which is bad. It is always better to not count on the safety circuitry.
I didn't know this could happen. Thanks for the info. I don't run my receiver with no speaker running, but this is very good to know.

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post #996 of 998 Old 10-17-2014, 03:53 PM
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Greetings all,
I want a fan to move a little bit more air in the cabinet where my SC-77 lives.

Years ago I bought a 110v auxiliary fan that I was able to plug in to the switched outlet on the back of my old Yamaha receiver. The Sc-77 has no provision, of course. It does have a couple of USB ports that could possibly utilize to power a small fan. I'm unsure if this is doable. I've done some looking on line and have seen some elaborate setups with separate power supplies and controllers. I don't think I need that much CFM and I'd rather keep it simple.

Is there a particular port I should use to power a fan, or is either OK as long as I stay under the amp rating for that particular port?

Thanks
B
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post #997 of 998 Old 10-20-2014, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billerator View Post
Greetings all,
I want a fan to move a little bit more air in the cabinet where my SC-77 lives.

Years ago I bought a 110v auxiliary fan that I was able to plug in to the switched outlet on the back of my old Yamaha receiver. The Sc-77 has no provision, of course. It does have a couple of USB ports that could possibly utilize to power a small fan. I'm unsure if this is doable. I've done some looking on line and have seen some elaborate setups with separate power supplies and controllers. I don't think I need that much CFM and I'd rather keep it simple.

Is there a particular port I should use to power a fan, or is either OK as long as I stay under the amp rating for that particular port?

Thanks
B
As long as you stay under that particular port amp rating you should be fine. I have a small USB powered desk fan from Target that is super quiet and moves just enough air to keep things cool around my SC-75. It definitely gets the job done, and turns on automatically any time the receiver is on. I have a PS3 on a different shelf that I do the exact same thing with.
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post #998 of 998 Old Today, 12:25 PM
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Separate Video and Audio Source?

I thought I read somewhere this wasn't possible, but making sure because it would come in handy once in a while.

Can i have a different audio and video source? For instance, I might want to be watching DirecTV video but have audio from my Squeezebox. I.e. keep an eye on the game but listen to some totally unrelated music instead.

Curious about 2 HDMI sources or an HDMI video source with non-HDMI audio source.
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