Official Pioneer SC-75/77/79 Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 1005 Old 10-04-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LairdWilliams View Post
In general, it is a bad idea to have an amplifier turned on with no load. You had a brief period where you did that to the center channel amp on your unit. In older systems with no safety circuitry, you might have cooked the power amp for the center channel if you played anything for a long time. The completely free flow of electrons through the system (the speaker load is what keeps the electron flow from becoming "free" in the first place) would have caused a heat build-up and fried it.

I doubt you damaged your system. Most modern units, including the Pioneers, have sensing circuits that cut things off when they get too hot so you don't melt anything. If it is still sounding and working fine, I would no be too concerned. It probably got a bit hotter than normal and you probably smelled a little ozone, but not hot enough for long enough to do any damage. If it sounds fine you should be good.

Just do yourself a favor and never "lie" to your amp again by telling it to expect a speaker where there isn't one. Current still flows in the amp even when the speaker wire is not connected or when you are careful not to short the wires. In fact, MORE current flows in the power amp the lower the load. A zero load is essentially an open circuit, which is bad. It is always better to not count on the safety circuitry.
Strange! I guess I always assumed that an electronics device like this would be able to detect if a speaker was attached (which is why I was worried about just having the cables attached, in case, somehow, the resistance of the wire was enough to make it think a speaker was attached).

Anyway, yes, it seems to be working fine now, and not generating a smell. I have a feeling, like you said, something was getting hot...(the smell gave me quite a headache, too).

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post #992 of 1005 Old 10-04-2014, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andytrackk View Post
Strange! I guess I always assumed that an electronics device like this would be able to detect if a speaker was attached (which is why I was worried about just having the cables attached, in case, somehow, the resistance of the wire was enough to make it think a speaker was attached).

Anyway, yes, it seems to be working fine now, and not generating a smell. I have a feeling, like you said, something was getting hot...(the smell gave me quite a headache, too).
The SC 7x series does have a speaker detector, but it is applied only of you run full-auto MCACC, which includes a speaker config section. If you override this manually or just set the speaker config yourself, however, then it takes you at your word.

Display: Panasonic P60UT50 (Plasma)
Speakers: (4) Monitor Audio Silver 9i (Front and Surround), (1) Monitor Audio Silver 12i (Center), (4) Monitor Audio Silver 4i (Rear and Wide), (2) Aperion Audio Bravus II 8d (Subwoofers)
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-87 AVR (9.2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103, Roku 3, Cable...
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post #993 of 1005 Old 10-04-2014, 04:36 PM
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New SC-LX77 owner here - was fortunate to be able to grab an "end of life" unit for a good price.

I'm a touch concerned about some of the video functionality, though. I am coming from a series of Onkyos (all of which have gone pfutt shortly after warranty!) and perhaps am just not used to Pioneer. Or maybe this is a Friday afternoon unit.

Basically, on my Onkyo, I could tell it that I wanted to output at 1080p, and it'd upscale anything lower, but respect framerate (24,50,60hz). So, if PlayStation is outputting 720p60 it becomes 1080p60. If HTPC is outputting 1080p50 it stays 1080p50. If Playstation is outputting 1080p24 it stays at 24hz.

On the LX77, the "auto" setting insists on outputting 720p when PS3 renders 720p which triggers different calibration stuff on the TV, plus I'm not a massive fan of the Panasonic TV scaler vs Qdeo (or Vida in Onkyo). I can force 1080p by selecting 1080p on v.conv res setting, but then it doesn't respect 24hz. If I select 1080p24 on that menu, then all sources are down-converted to 24hz. The only solution I can see is to manually adjust it depending on what I'm feeding in, but the mrs won't like that!

Next we have something of a killer - black levels. With v.conv enabled, the black levels seem more-or-less as I'd expect (ie. similar to connecting TV direct to source) - ie. RGB normal. With v.conv disabled or Standby Passthru, black level drops to RGB-full. The effect is that everything becomes darker and shadow detail is lost. This is a problem, because the obvious solution to the 1080p24 thing is to turn off v.conv when watching 24hz blu-rays. It *may* be that 24hz blu-rays aren't RGB so won't exhibit the problem (most of my sources are RGB by default), but that's harder to confirm.

Is all this normal?

At the moment, all I can do is run the system with v.conv on all the time (despite the Pioneer manual hinting that you may prefer it off) with either auto, 1080p, or 1080p24 depending on material. Fiddly.

Also, has anyone overcome the lack of definable inputs on the remote? I'm currently "wasting" TV, CD, iPod, Tuner, MHL and so on, whilst trying to feed in 6 HDMI sources. There are basically only 4 properly definable buttons as far as I can see?

Finally, is there any way to switch volume presentation into 0-100 rather than 11 to -70db notation? I find the latter overly complex, and again trying to explain why volume is negative to the good lady is, well, "interesting". I know the Onkyo offered both via a config option.


PS, am loving the audio quality, so don't want to sound like a moaning-minnie, but it's just that the video and general usability seems a big step back from my (2.5 year!) old Onkyo.
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post #994 of 1005 Old 10-06-2014, 09:30 AM
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networking help

Having trouble with the networking on my SC-77. Basically can't get airplay to consistently work from iTunes Winodws PCs on my network. It will show the SC-77 available and I've got my router set to give that mac a specific IP address. Unit is connected to a wireless bridge with plenty of bandwidth (ASUS AC87U router to ASUS AC68U router configed as media bridge).

I think the problem is with the SC-77. Streaming performance to other devices on that bridge is flawless. I've done 4K Netflix to the tv with no issue. Same with the XBOX One and DirecTV. No issues downloading or streaming HD content. Everyone gets an IP and just works. The 77 will seem to have an IP but often drops out of site. I can't even PING it. Is there anything I can do to either reset it or make it work consistently. I have it connect with DHCP and no proxy. Are they working on this firmware? I see it hasn't been updated this year.

adam
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post #995 of 1005 Old 10-07-2014, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LairdWilliams View Post
In general, it is a bad idea to have an amplifier turned on with no load. You had a brief period where you did that to the center channel amp on your unit. In older systems with no safety circuitry, you might have cooked the power amp for the center channel if you played anything for a long time. The completely free flow of electrons through the system (the speaker load is what keeps the electron flow from becoming "free" in the first place) would have caused a heat build-up and fried it.

I doubt you damaged your system. Most modern units, including the Pioneers, have sensing circuits that cut things off when they get too hot so you don't melt anything. If it is still sounding and working fine, I would no be too concerned. It probably got a bit hotter than normal and you probably smelled a little ozone, but not hot enough for long enough to do any damage. If it sounds fine you should be good.

Just do yourself a favor and never "lie" to your amp again by telling it to expect a speaker where there isn't one. Current still flows in the amp even when the speaker wire is not connected or when you are careful not to short the wires. In fact, MORE current flows in the power amp the lower the load. A zero load is essentially an open circuit, which is bad. It is always better to not count on the safety circuitry.
I didn't know this could happen. Thanks for the info. I don't run my receiver with no speaker running, but this is very good to know.

home theater addict
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post #996 of 1005 Old 10-17-2014, 04:53 PM
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Greetings all,
I want a fan to move a little bit more air in the cabinet where my SC-77 lives.

Years ago I bought a 110v auxiliary fan that I was able to plug in to the switched outlet on the back of my old Yamaha receiver. The Sc-77 has no provision, of course. It does have a couple of USB ports that could possibly utilize to power a small fan. I'm unsure if this is doable. I've done some looking on line and have seen some elaborate setups with separate power supplies and controllers. I don't think I need that much CFM and I'd rather keep it simple.

Is there a particular port I should use to power a fan, or is either OK as long as I stay under the amp rating for that particular port?

Thanks
B
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post #997 of 1005 Old 10-20-2014, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Billerator View Post
Greetings all,
I want a fan to move a little bit more air in the cabinet where my SC-77 lives.

Years ago I bought a 110v auxiliary fan that I was able to plug in to the switched outlet on the back of my old Yamaha receiver. The Sc-77 has no provision, of course. It does have a couple of USB ports that could possibly utilize to power a small fan. I'm unsure if this is doable. I've done some looking on line and have seen some elaborate setups with separate power supplies and controllers. I don't think I need that much CFM and I'd rather keep it simple.

Is there a particular port I should use to power a fan, or is either OK as long as I stay under the amp rating for that particular port?

Thanks
B
As long as you stay under that particular port amp rating you should be fine. I have a small USB powered desk fan from Target that is super quiet and moves just enough air to keep things cool around my SC-75. It definitely gets the job done, and turns on automatically any time the receiver is on. I have a PS3 on a different shelf that I do the exact same thing with.
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post #998 of 1005 Old 10-31-2014, 01:25 PM
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Separate Video and Audio Source?

I thought I read somewhere this wasn't possible, but making sure because it would come in handy once in a while.

Can i have a different audio and video source? For instance, I might want to be watching DirecTV video but have audio from my Squeezebox. I.e. keep an eye on the game but listen to some totally unrelated music instead.

Curious about 2 HDMI sources or an HDMI video source with non-HDMI audio source.
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post #999 of 1005 Old 11-02-2014, 01:18 AM
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Hi Guys,

Just joined the forum. Thanks in advance for the help.

I just purchased a SC-LX77 and BDP-450. I'm exceedingly happy with it but I do have one query.

When I play SACDs (I have HDMI control on, PQLS activated), the receiver displays that the incoming signal is PCM, not bitstream. Is this correct? I would have thought that the signal for SACDs, being DSD, should be bitstream and not PCM. The "HDMI audio output" option on the BDP-450 menu is greyed-out so I can't select bitstream. Can you tell me if "PCM" is correct and if I can change it to bitstream - and if so, how to?

Thanks again for the help.

Cheers,

Eugene.
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post #1000 of 1005 Old 11-09-2014, 05:05 PM
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Speaking of SACDs...

(And sorry, I'm not sure about the PCM issue, but I do think I remember reading somewhere that DOP is the standard (DSD over PCM) that the receiver uses to play DSD).

My questions are a little more specific.

First, I'm using a USB stick to play .dsd/dff files, and some of them just don't play. That is, the receiver tries for a second or two and then skips to the next song that it decides that it can play. I've tested these files with a media player on my computer and they play without issue. I cannot figure it out.

Second, one album I have simply refuses to sound correct--there is a noticeable distortion present (percussion sounds flat, and guitar is tinny and incorrect). Again, the sound is noticeably different (and correct) when played back on my laptop.

I admit I'm not a SACD/dsd expert, and maybe the receiver simply handles these files different than a computer would and therefore exposes some issues with the rip/file that the computer doesn't, but that seems strange to me.

tl;dr, has anyone encountered any issues playing DSD files from the USB input?

Sony HW50ES projector
Pioneer SC-1523-k
B&W CM5 (front)
B&W CMC2 S2 (center)
B&W 686 (surround)
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post #1001 of 1005 Old 11-09-2014, 05:58 PM
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How can I bi-amp the from L&R speakers. I gave a 7.1 setup on SC-75
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post #1002 of 1005 Old 11-10-2014, 05:05 AM
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How can I bi-amp the from L&R speakers. I gave a 7.1 setup on SC-75
check your manual on the AV Navigator disc or download it from Pioneer

select speaker configuration C in the speaker setup menu, pg 20 and follow wiring diagram on pg 26 for speaker config C.

if you need help figuring out the menu, check pg 98 for Manual Speaker Setup.

then run MCACC for that speaker configuration so that all speakers are calibrated.

it's pretty straightforward

Steve
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post #1003 of 1005 Old 11-11-2014, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andytrackk View Post
First, I'm using a USB stick to play .dsf/dff files, and some of them just don't play. That is, the receiver tries for a second or two and then skips to the next song that it decides that it can play. I've tested these files with a media player on my computer and they play without issue. I cannot figure it out.
Just an update. I've tried "DSD Direct" and "DSD to PCM" modes and neither will play some of my DSD files. What bothers me is that it seems completely random. I've got 20 albums, and about half have 1 or 2 files that won't play. The receiver skips to the next file, or, if it's the last on the list, just displays the word 'unknown' and sits there.

Sony HW50ES projector
Pioneer SC-1523-k
B&W CM5 (front)
B&W CMC2 S2 (center)
B&W 686 (surround)
SVS SB-2000

Last edited by Andytrackk; 11-11-2014 at 08:45 AM.
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post #1004 of 1005 Old 11-24-2014, 09:28 PM
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Hi, I have just set up my amp. When playing back blu ray discs I only get PCM displayed and not the audio for at as indicated on the disc. My previous Denon would display Dolby True HD or DTS HD Matster Audio etc...
I've looked in the manual and it asks to select 'receiver' and scroll through but the button does nothing. Also, it should automatically select the audio format, surely?
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post #1005 of 1005 Old Yesterday, 05:33 AM
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Do you have the player set to bitstream? Which player?

And the receiver doesn't select the track automatically. 1) select the track in disc menu, just like always 2) set audio format in the receiver to Direct mode if you want only what's on the disc or Auto Surround (includes stereo mixdown, ALC, Optimum) or directly select one of the Standard audio modes to add Dolby PLIIx/z, DTS NeoX post-processing to straight decoding from the disc.

Audio processing modes are buttons on the remote or you can use the i-app.

Direct plays strictly what's on the disc but with MCACC calibration (5.1 stays 5.1 etc)
Pure Direct is same as above but turns off MCACC calibration
Auto Surround & Standard modes allow you to add post processing (ALC, Optimum, PLIIx, NeoX) to get 7.1/9.1 from 5.1/2.0. Note: Direct & Pure Direct are Auto Surround modes.

This is not really different than what Denon does but the terminology and how you select the various audio modes may be different.

But start with the first, if your player is set to decode the track itself and pass as PCM, that's why the receiver is getting PCM.

Also, some early Blu-ray titles, notably from Sony, had uncompressed PCM tracks but this has largely disappeared for movies with DTS-MA & TrueHD, but you may find an occasional music or movie Blu-ray done in PCM.

Steve
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