Originally Posted by hoopsrgreat
I would bypss the receiver and see what happens. Run HDMI directly from several different input sources directly into your display device and see what happens. I have NEVER heard of something like this and assuming you have an issue with the receiver. If your picure has no issues when running directly from your DVR to your TV, then you know you have something going on with settings or a problem with the receiver itself.
This is actually extremely common and usually involves a problem with HDMI cabling and signal timing. My SC-77 was very sensitive to this. Things that screw up signal timing in HDMI/HDCP:
1) It can be as simple as your HDMI plugs are not properly seated in the jacks.
2) Too many connectors! The optimal HDMI connection has two and only two connectors - one at the input and one at the output - with one stretch of cable between them. Signal wire fan-out or fan-in, which is done for every connector in the path, alters timing in subtle ways. HDMI/HDCP timing is SO sensitive that these very small variations can mess things up. In practice this means that the following items should be avoided wherever possible (yes, sometimes they cannot): L-Adapters, coupling connectors, F-M extension cables, wall jacks.
3) Long cables. HDMI/HDCP timing is so tight that the longer a cable gets, the more likely that you will have problems.
4) Out-of-spec cables. Cables certified for HDMI 1.2 may or may not work in your rig for HDMI 1.3.
That does not mean that any of these items guarantee problems - but they do make them more likely. Combine them and problems become MUCH more likely.
Anecdote: I have a 30' run from AVR output to TV (wall mounted). When I first put it in, it went output to wall jack (6' cable), wall jack to wall jack (20' cable), wall jack to L adapter (3' cable), and the L-adapter to TV input. Yeah - the wall jacks looked really pretty and professional when they were not being used. This is not all that uncommon a configuration. It worked intermittently and failed intermittently. On a tip here, I tested a new cable (same manufacturer and model other than the length) that was long enough (30') to fish through the wall and come out an opening in each of the wall plates at both ends (rather than using the jacks and then using 2 more cables). The cable was about 10' longer than the "in-wall" cable had been and the overall run length was 1' longer. I still needed the L adapter on the TV end, but I went to 3 connectors/adapters/couplers from - count them - 9. All the blank screen and audio dropout issues disappeared.
We have had people here who had 1.5' HDMI cables that just did not work, so they went to 6' cables for the same connection and everything worked great from then on. The HDCP timing on the chipsets in their equipment was just too sensitive and could not adjust to the short cable length. Yes - you read that right - the cable was too SHORT. High quality, spec-certified, 6' - 12' cables seem to be some kind of optimum. That does not mean that longer or shorter cables won't work. Again, it is all about risk. These other cables will work fine in some rigs (I have a 30' cable and things are fine) and may not in others.
If I wanted to do it over again (which I don't) I would go get a 30' cable with Redmere compensation technology. The Redmere stuff seems to be pretty solid for long cable runs, since it is an active cable that has circuitry/design that compensates for its own length. Basically, every Redmere cable out there, no matter its length, LOOKS like a normal 6'-12' cable as far as the connected equipment can tell. I helped a buddy run a 50' Redmere cable from his PC to his bonus room AVR and it works like a champ. Again though - we also bypassed anything resembling a wall jack ;-)