best amp for buttkickers - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-16-2013, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I posted a similar question in the subwoofer forum without any luck, so I'm trying over here.

I currently have 6 buttkickers in my media room. 3 are in the series and the other 3 are in series and then I hooked the 2 sets together in parellel. I had a behringer ep4000 amp for the last 2 years, but it has now failed. I am wanting to replace it, but I'm wondering if I should be buying 2 different amps, or changing how I have them wired etc.

any ideas?
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post #2 of 16 Old 09-16-2013, 11:58 AM
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er, I'd try a subwoofer power amp instead with filters to focus on relevant frequencies.
You might wanna try www.reckhorn.org or at least have a look there at setup configurations for their body shaker and subwoofer amp. Might give U some ideas.wink.gif
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-16-2013, 12:22 PM
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Why not the BK amp?

Noah
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-16-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

Why not the BK amp?
I dont' know "the BK" amp, nor do I know how various sub amps do compare. There is also RBH Sound for instance making external sub amps, Klipsch, Sonance, B&W, u name it. However, I think phase control, good filter sets and most importantly getting the Ohms right is key - pricy sound quality not so much rolleyes.gif
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post #5 of 16 Old 09-17-2013, 12:17 PM
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-17-2013, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

It's the amp made by BK for he BK; good bang for the buck
looks decent, a phase knob would help to align it with audible subs. But hey, better suited than a full range amp w/o freq. banding. smile.gif
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post #7 of 16 Old 09-20-2013, 12:52 PM
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I think it's lame. I can't switch individual buttkickers on and off, can't change gain on each transducer. need to power off when changing number of tranducers (even when using their $150 switch). Has not remote control. Pretty poor for $350
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-20-2013, 02:39 PM
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Take a look at Earthquake's XJ-600R. It has just about everything you need to run your transducers, with gain and full adjustment knobs (phase included), as they use transducers themselves. Don't let the MSRP scare you off - that's not standard retail.

I have 3 of their small transducers I'm using with the 600R and has worked great for the past 2 years. I have a like new in the box 300R I'm not using and is collecting dust and would sell cheap.

http://www.earthquakesound.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=91&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=82

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post #9 of 16 Old 09-22-2013, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojr74 View Post

Take a look at Earthquake's XJ-600R. It has just about everything you need to run your transducers, with gain and full adjustment knobs (phase included), as they use transducers themselves. Don't let the MSRP scare you off - that's not standard retail.

I have 3 of their small transducers I'm using with the 600R and has worked great for the past 2 years. I have a like new in the box 300R I'm not using and is collecting dust and would sell cheap.

http://www.earthquakesound.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=91&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=82

Thanks

Couldn't find it anywhere for under $1000
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post #10 of 16 Old 09-23-2013, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

I can't switch individual buttkickers on and off, can't change gain on each transducer. need to power off when changing number of tranducers (even when using their $150 switch). Has not remote control.
Well thats quite an odd list of requirements and IMO not possible with a single amp - sub amps I know come all mono. Even more since i understood u/he had just 2 (rows of 3) on one stereo amp in parallel before. Better get a number of small amps, one per seat(s) you want to operate individually and put the amp in hands reach/underneth i'd suggest (if fiddling with settings is really necessary). If possible go for 2ohms in setups and make sure the amps can handle it continuously, make sure they don't waste power on freq. not needed. IMHO better don't buy wrong equipment again just because the right setup is too expensive, in the end its just money wasted. wink.gif

And btw i just saw the buttkicker website has plenty of options and a clear advice what setups work - when using their transducers there is hardly doing anythin wrong if followed their setup advice. All these amps lack is phase control and fine grainded filters for the sensitive butts out there. tongue.gif
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post #11 of 16 Old 09-23-2013, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazpri View Post

Well thats quite an odd list of requirements and IMO not possible with a single amp - sub amps I know come all mono. Even more since i understood u/he had just 2 (rows of 3) on one stereo amp in parallel before. Better get a number of small amps, one per seat(s) you want to operate individually and put the amp in hands reach/underneth i'd suggest (if fiddling with settings is really necessary). If possible go for 2ohms in setups and make sure the amps can handle it continuously, make sure they don't waste power on freq. not needed. IMHO better don't buy wrong equipment again just because the right setup is too expensive, in the end its just money wasted. wink.gif

And btw i just saw the buttkicker website has plenty of options and a clear advice what setups work - when using their transducers there is hardly doing anythin wrong if followed their setup advice. All these amps lack is phase control and fine grainded filters for the sensitive butts out there. tongue.gif

Thanks for reply

I bought the kit from buttkicker as it's guaranteed to work. Right now I'm just exploring options and getting used to it. I've been fiddling with the settings quite a bit, and will only know if I need to have easy access to controls after living with it, and watching several movies

I bought the big LFE transducers and the only amp they sell that provides 1000w is the one I bought. I have a sofa and a recliner. The second LFE arrives today, so I'll see if I need significantly different settings for each type of furniture
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post #12 of 16 Old 12-13-2013, 07:50 PM
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Before you buy another amp there are a few things you must realize...
1: The Buttkicker LFE (the top of the range) has a frequency response curve that goes all the way down to 5Hz.
2: Lots of movies also have LFE's (low end effects) that go way below 20Hz, some even down to 10Hz.
3: Very few amps have a frequency response curve that is effective below 20Hz. With most amps, the roll-off from 20Hz is often quite steep.
4: There are amps available that do have response curves that go to almost DC (0Hz). Most, but not all, are expensive, but you have to search for the less expensive variety. PA amps are the best source because anything in the "hi fi" range is ludicrously expensive. I could buy a seat on a moon trip cheaper.

Some amps also have a switchable crossover that will allow output below 20Hz. Using this option with speakers is obviously not a wise thing to do, but a definite requirement for the BK LFE.

A thing about running these devices in series and parallel...

Be very mindful of the current, as well as the inductive and resistive loads you placing on the amplifier. Very few amps will stand the strain of running high output into low impedance loads, even though they mention these loads in the spec sheet when referring to output power. 3 sets of 4 ohms units wired in series gives around 12 ohms (but not precisely). 2 sets of 12 ohms in parallel will result in a load of around 6 ohms, so in impedance terms with the BK's running at 4ohms you are probably safe. But the actual current load on the amp is pretty high and as you discovered, will eventually give up. Any amp with a power supply weighing less than a ton will be unsuitable (if you get my drift).

Because high power PA amps (Fostex and Behringer) can be more moderately priced compared to other alternatives, this is the obvious way to go, but if they roll-off steeply at 20Hz, then you will only realize about 80% of the potential of BK's. But you will have to suffer the noisy fans they use (or change the fan).

I am one of the lucky ones who had a 2x300w Fostex available (delivers around 700w mono bridged into 4ohms) when I bought my first BK LFE and I love it.
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post #13 of 16 Old 12-14-2013, 11:49 AM
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Actually a lot of pro amps have nondefeatable infrasonic HP filters.

The Peavey ipr's (at least the 3000 I have) is strong to at least 10 Hz, and I believe the Behringer inukes are down just a few dB there.

People in the DIY Speaker forum could tell you which amps go down to 10 or 5 Hz.

Noah
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post #14 of 16 Old 12-16-2013, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murbella7 View Post

Because high power PA amps (Fostex and Behringer) can be more moderately priced compared to other alternatives, this is the obvious way to go
But at 2Ohms you'll get most out of it in movement, on the other side typical stereo PAs are usually not designed for such use. I guess that's how he bricked his Behringer in first place. No need for heavy kilos. rolleyes.gif
So no, dont waste money on a stereo PA, get a propper subwoofer amp, there are plenty at good value for money, no high end hifi of curz. And there is nothing wrong about the ones that are supposed to be used, just FAQ the manufacturer of the kicker.
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post #15 of 16 Old 12-16-2013, 06:39 AM
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Well I resolved my problem

I bought a Xantech Remote gain controller, which has IR control and On/Off, Up/Down, Mute, and 12 preset levels. (RGC11)

here's how it's connected

  • Split the sub signal at receiver
  • Send half to Sub (unmodified)
  • Send 2nd half to Xantech
  • Output of Xantech goes to BK amp line in


I programmed my URC MX-780 with the Xantech codes and I now, finally, have remote control over the BK strength. Fantastic.

Regards

Mark
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post #16 of 16 Old 12-16-2013, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazpri View Post

ow he bricked his Behringer in first place.

I believe the ipr's are fine with 2 ohms.
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Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

I bought a Xantech Remote gain controller...

Another way might be with Zone 2 and its volume control if available.

Noah
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