Media Furniture that Can Store Large Amps - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-16-2013, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello AVS Audio Enthusiasts. Up to now, I've hung out in the video neighborhood of AVS - but I thought I'd venture into audio-land to pick your brains about how you store your large amps.

I would like to find an enclosed media stand to house my power conditioner, pre/pro, amp, Bluray player, and cable box. I want it to sit under my Pioneer plasma (which is about to be moved down to 30" from the floor)

Is there such a thing? What do you folks do with your large amps? Do any of you store them in enclosed media cabinets? Ideally, I would like to spend under $1000, but I'll go a bit higher if I must. If it holds my center speaker too, even better! (not essential)

I am just moving up into the world of separates. I am getting an Emotiva Pre/Pro and hopefully, either a Rotel or Parasound amp. A dealer who I know offered me a really superb deal on a demo Parsound A52. It is significantly bigger than the rest of my equipment. The problem dimension is the 19.75 depth. I don't want to choose an amp on the basis of its size, but I have spent untold hours looking, and am beginning to think I should just go with the Rotel because it fits in all standard consoles.

I welcome all input. Thank you in advanc for sharing your insight with this audio newbie.




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post #2 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 05:35 AM
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I built my own using 80/20 strutted aluminum and the wood of my choice. I liked it so much I built a second one for my wife. Check out my avatar picture and see my profile pictures for more ideas. The nice thing about DIY is you can design it the way you want and can modify it in the future to expand and contract the layout as needed. I have two 100 lb amps on the top of one of mine with no problems. I would not recommend placing an amp in an enclosed rack as heat is electronics worst enemy. If you would like more details please PM me and I can give you more information.smile.gif

Yamaha CX-A5000, ATI AT 2007 Amp (7X200W), ATI AT 2004 Amp (4X200W)Klipsch RF 63's - Main, RB 61's - Front heights, RC-62 - Center, RS-62's - Surround, RS-52's - Rear Surround, 2 Rythmik DS-1510 DIY Subwoofers (With PEQ600XLR3 Amp) each connected with Antimode 8033S-II, Oppo BDP-95, MMF-7.1, Project Phono Box RS, XBox 360, XBox One
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post #3 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 06:15 AM
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It's funny you mention this. There have been a few threads about Onkyo receivers failing and some stated the problem is people don't provide adequate ventilation. My gripe with this was the media cabinets that are sold in the same stores as Onkyo receivers don't accommodate what Onkyo receivers need. Not by a long shot. They need something like 8" clearance on all sides and with a typical media cabinet sold at Best Buy or Wal-Mart, you're lucky if you can get 2" of clearance.

Having said that...
You can find something if you shop around and are willing to spend maybe $800 or more. Wayfair and Amazon have a good selection. If the amp depth is 20", you'll likely need something 24" deep to accommodate the connections and take into account that the stated depth is typically the outside dimensions and not the dimensions of the interior shelf space. I recently bought a media cabinet that has slots cut in the shelves and bottom for ventilation. If I keep the doors open during operation, things stay relatively cool. I have a NAD amp that is heavy. Maybe 60 lbs and I attached a piece of 2x4 under where the amp sits for extra support. If you get down on your hands and knees you can see it, but from a typical seat, you don't notice it.
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post #4 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 07:50 AM
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Those are some of the reasons I went the DIY route, I looked for many years and just couldn't find something that would meet my requirements of space and ventalation. I looked at the Salamander brand and they also use the strutted aluminum for there supports but just couldn't justify the price. If a person has the time and minimal woodworking skills they can build something that would rival anything out there on the market. My equipment is both deep and heavy so I went with a 24" deep rack with each section 20" wide. This allows more than the recommended space for required ventalation. I used solid 2" X 2" oak for support under the shelves that the amps sit on. With the skirting I glued to the main panels the oak supports are totally hidden. The other nice thing is I can add more shelves at anytime by just making another shelf. Here is a rough breakdown of what the unit in my avatar cost.

Aluminum, shelf supports and assorted fasteners - 1400
Grade A Red Oak 3/4" Plywood (7 layer) - 120.00 (three sheets 4' X 8')
South American Cocobolo for trim - ??? I had it on hand and re-sawed lumber left from another project. All trim is 1/4" thick
Watco Natural Oil Finish

Comparable Salamander Stand using MDF for shelving and vinyl finish - 2500

I also made another level three section stand using Eastern White Maple Plywood and Canary wood for trim for the wife and it cost about the same. Tthe only difference is I ordered the strutted aluminum anodized black and painted all the associated hardware a flat black to match. I also incorportated drawers and side screens (cat deterents) into the wifes rack for further functionality.smile.gif

Yamaha CX-A5000, ATI AT 2007 Amp (7X200W), ATI AT 2004 Amp (4X200W)Klipsch RF 63's - Main, RB 61's - Front heights, RC-62 - Center, RS-62's - Surround, RS-52's - Rear Surround, 2 Rythmik DS-1510 DIY Subwoofers (With PEQ600XLR3 Amp) each connected with Antimode 8033S-II, Oppo BDP-95, MMF-7.1, Project Phono Box RS, XBox 360, XBox One
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post #5 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 08:56 AM
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If you don't want to DIY and have some money to spend, this company makes beautiful stuff that is designed for HT components. I don't have one but I've seen some of these models in person. I was considering the Nora myself. It's 22" deep but you can remove the rear panel if you have XLR connectors that will stick out past that depth.

http://www.bdiusa.com/theater/index.shtml

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post #6 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 09:17 AM
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Have a look at VTI Manufacturing. The have shelves as high as 13 inches and a depth of 19" on the BL 404 with open backs, so an amp and cables can hang out of the back if needed. I too have just discovered this company.

http://www.vtimanufacturing.com/BL%20Series.htm
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post #7 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 10:51 AM
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Note that the OP wants an enclosed media stand.

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post #8 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty8451 View Post

Those are some of the reasons I went the DIY route, I looked for many years and just couldn't find something that would meet my requirements of space and ventalation. I looked at the Salamander brand and they also use the strutted aluminum for there supports but just couldn't justify the price. If a person has the time and minimal woodworking skills they can build something that would rival anything out there on the market. My equipment is both deep and heavy so I went with a 24" deep rack with each section 20" wide. This allows more than the recommended space for required ventalation. I used solid 2" X 2" oak for support under the shelves that the amps sit on. With the skirting I glued to the main panels the oak supports are totally hidden. The other nice thing is I can add more shelves at anytime by just making another shelf. Here is a rough breakdown of what the unit in my avatar cost.

Aluminum, shelf supports and assorted fasteners - 1400
Grade A Red Oak 3/4" Plywood (7 layer) - 120.00 (three sheets 4' X 8')
South American Cocobolo for trim - ??? I had it on hand and re-sawed lumber left from another project. All trim is 1/4" thick
Watco Natural Oil Finish

Comparable Salamander Stand using MDF for shelving and vinyl finish - 2500

I also made another level three section stand using Eastern White Maple Plywood and Canary wood for trim for the wife and it cost about the same. Tthe only difference is I ordered the strutted aluminum anodized black and painted all the associated hardware a flat black to match. I also incorportated drawers and side screens (cat deterents) into the wifes rack for further functionality.smile.gif

That is a nice rack you got there. I wouldn't have the time or skill to build something like that, but I agree if you know what you're doing, that would probably be the way to go.
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post #9 of 25 Old 09-17-2013, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBWIII View Post

If you don't want to DIY and have some money to spend, this company makes beautiful stuff that is designed for HT components. I don't have one but I've seen some of these models in person. I was considering the Nora myself. It's 22" deep but you can remove the rear panel if you have XLR connectors that will stick out past that depth.

http://www.bdiusa.com/theater/index.shtml

We use the low/wide BDI Cirrus, and it fits some large gear such as an ATI AT2007 amp. (See system link in my signature.) It's less expensive than the Nora model, but the media storage shelves are both open.

The ventilation is well thought-out, and remotes work through the glass in the doors. The downside it that it cannot fit 19"-wide components, such as pro-amps with rack ears.

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post #10 of 25 Old 09-20-2013, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty8451 View Post

Those are some of the reasons I went the DIY route, I looked for many years and just couldn't find something that would meet my requirements of space and ventalation. I looked at the Salamander brand and they also use the strutted aluminum for there supports but just couldn't justify the price. If a person has the time and minimal woodworking skills they can build something that would rival anything out there on the market. My equipment is both deep and heavy so I went with a 24" deep rack with each section 20" wide. This allows more than the recommended space for required ventalation. I used solid 2" X 2" oak for support under the shelves that the amps sit on. With the skirting I glued to the main panels the oak supports are totally hidden. The other nice thing is I can add more shelves at anytime by just making another shelf. Here is a rough breakdown of what the unit in my avatar cost.

Aluminum, shelf supports and assorted fasteners - 1400
Grade A Red Oak 3/4" Plywood (7 layer) - 120.00 (three sheets 4' X 8')
South American Cocobolo for trim - ??? I had it on hand and re-sawed lumber left from another project. All trim is 1/4" thick
Watco Natural Oil Finish

Comparable Salamander Stand using MDF for shelving and vinyl finish - 2500

I also made another level three section stand using Eastern White Maple Plywood and Canary wood for trim for the wife and it cost about the same. Tthe only difference is I ordered the strutted aluminum anodized black and painted all the associated hardware a flat black to match. I also incorportated drawers and side screens (cat deterents) into the wifes rack for further functionality.smile.gif

Sounds like a great cabinet you made there!

Just to clarify though, no Salamander products use a vinyl finish. Almost all use solid wood, real wood veneers or on some of the black finishes it is a powder coat on MDF.

Also Salamander uses MDF for audio and stability reasons.

The audio reason is it reduces vibration better than most other types of sturdy structural material.

The stability reason is MDF is less likely to warp over time than solid wood and some plywoods.

As a side not when you order a cherry or walnut cabinet, you get real cherry or walnut wood not what is typically done on cheaper furniture which is usually a cheaper pine or maybe maple wood stained to look like cherry or walnut.
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post #11 of 25 Old 09-20-2013, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salamander Jim View Post

Sounds like a great cabinet you made there!

Just to clarify though, no Salamander products use a vinyl finish. Almost all use solid wood, real wood veneers or on some of the black finishes it is a powder coat on MDF.

Also Salamander uses MDF for audio and stability reasons.

The audio reason is it reduces vibration better than most other types of sturdy structural material.

The stability reason is MDF is less likely to warp over time than solid wood and some plywoods.

As a side not when you order a cherry or walnut cabinet, you get real cherry or walnut wood not what is typically done on cheaper furniture which is usually a cheaper pine or maybe maple wood stained to look like cherry or walnut.

Hello, I was not degrading the Salamander brand, not in the least. It is very nice audio furniture and I looked at it in depth even driving 100 miles one way to actual see the brand personally. I was caught in a delima as my equipment and the layout I envisioned was not possible with the Salamander brand even when using the online build tool. I will say that of all the audio furntiure I looked at the Salamander brand was the best and for a audiophile just looking for a standard layout it really can't be beat other than by DIY if you have the time and knowledge. I do believe the Salamander rack I saw was the powder coated MDF which now that you have clarified was not vinyl.

Yamaha CX-A5000, ATI AT 2007 Amp (7X200W), ATI AT 2004 Amp (4X200W)Klipsch RF 63's - Main, RB 61's - Front heights, RC-62 - Center, RS-62's - Surround, RS-52's - Rear Surround, 2 Rythmik DS-1510 DIY Subwoofers (With PEQ600XLR3 Amp) each connected with Antimode 8033S-II, Oppo BDP-95, MMF-7.1, Project Phono Box RS, XBox 360, XBox One
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post #12 of 25 Old 09-20-2013, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty8451 View Post

I built my own using 80/20 strutted aluminum and the wood of my choice. I liked it so much I built a second one for my wife.

You store your wife in a media cabinet? Doesn't that screw-up the sound?
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post #13 of 25 Old 09-20-2013, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys. I was out of town and off line for a couple of days. It's great to come back to these ideas. I especially liked the pictures from the Manhattan minimalist
apartment. I'm not a Do It Yourselfer. I'm starting with no skills in that area. Though it's cool to read about what others have done. Some of the stands you
mentioned sound good - but I don't think any of them can accomodate the 19.75 inch depth of the Parasound. Anyway, good food for thought here. Any more
ideas out there? I really appreciate all thoughts.
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post #14 of 25 Old 09-20-2013, 08:45 PM
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Vashti

I would still check out the salamander stuff, the items I looked at had backs that were removable so your equipment should fit fine. There is a gentleman who posted on this thread that could probably answere any question you may have. Also you can go to there website and design your own cabinet and it will give you a breakdown of the parts and price for what you want. Best of luck:)smile.gifsmile.gif

Yamaha CX-A5000, ATI AT 2007 Amp (7X200W), ATI AT 2004 Amp (4X200W)Klipsch RF 63's - Main, RB 61's - Front heights, RC-62 - Center, RS-62's - Surround, RS-52's - Rear Surround, 2 Rythmik DS-1510 DIY Subwoofers (With PEQ600XLR3 Amp) each connected with Antimode 8033S-II, Oppo BDP-95, MMF-7.1, Project Phono Box RS, XBox 360, XBox One
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post #15 of 25 Old 09-20-2013, 10:22 PM
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With all those wonderful items you have, why would you want to have them enclosed? Seems having the fronts visible is a plus.

If you need to have them behind glass, either get a stand that has or can have installed, some fans to avoid over heating your great set up.

Is your Pioneer going to sit on the stand or is mounted to the wall? If the latter, you have way more choices as to what to do with your audio/video set up.

If you were willing to spend more, you could consider StandOut designs (I think that is the name as they make some high end furniture that would meet your needs). They are not cheap but have some excellent solid wood offerings. They sometimes have sales going on.

For those that have suggested DIY, I am in your camp if one has the tools available and a bit of know how. Nothing nicer than a custom cabinet, in the finish one wants and the feeling that comes from completing and using the cabinet.
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post #16 of 25 Old 09-21-2013, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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The reason that I want them enclosed is that I HATE the lights! I go to great lengths to get a dark room to watch moves. I have Cinemaquest lights attached to the back of
my TV, which give films an incredible three dimensional look. Having a bunch of distracting blue lights coming from my components interferes with the picture and the movie
experience.

My Pioneer will be mounted on the wall. Currently, it is 40" from the ground. I will be lowering it 10" to make it eye level very soon.

Thanks for the thoughts.
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post #17 of 25 Old 09-21-2013, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought I'd add some pictures to show you folks what I'm dealing with here. It is a small room which functions as a living room/dining room/kitchen. The space along the wall under the TV if only 70" from the nearside of the beam to the table (and there is nowhere else for the table to go). The TV is 58" wide.

There is an extremely good chance that I will be loaning my piano to a friend until I am in a bigger apartment. I plan to lower the TV 10". The piano would prevent that - and it is just too big of a hard surface to have in front of a speaker.

The shelves that are currently attached to the wall will not work. They will not support the heavy amp that I am getting. My equipment will be changing slightly. The Denon receiver is being replaced by an Emotiva pre/pro and a Parasound Halo amp. The HD-DVD player is going.

Here are a few pics:







Thank you all so much for your help with my tough AV setup. I love the AVS community.
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post #18 of 25 Old 09-23-2013, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Bumpity.

By the way, the piano is now definitely going (until I can get a bigger space) so that wall is freed up.

Anyone?
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post #19 of 25 Old 09-24-2013, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrehdd View Post

With all those wonderful items you have, why would you want to have them enclosed? Seems having the fronts visible is a plus.

I put all my electronics in an enclosed cabinet because my wife hates the way they look. It's a compromise that I can live with. I agree with her. It looks a lot nicer looking at a piece of wood furniture than a stack of black boxes. Plus, it keeps the dust out.
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post #20 of 25 Old 09-24-2013, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Kidhorn. What kind of cabinet do you use? Does your amp overheat in there?
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post #21 of 25 Old 09-25-2013, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Vashti View Post

Thanks Kidhorn. What kind of cabinet do you use? Does your amp overheat in there?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSLLLA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was the last one I bought. It's big. I can hold a denon 4311ci and a NAD T955 amp. They barely fit, but I can close the doors cleanly. What's nice about this unit is there are slits on the bottom and shelves which helps with circulation. I usually keep the doors open when I use it to help with heat and close them when not in use, but my kids never open the doors and I haven't had any heat related failures. It requires assembly, but it's sturdy and heavy. Not a piece of junk like many similar units.
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post #22 of 25 Old 12-09-2013, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucka View Post

Have a look at VTI Manufacturing. The have shelves as high as 13 inches and a depth of 19" on the BL 404 with open backs, so an amp and cables can hang out of the back if needed. I too have just discovered this company.

http://www.vtimanufacturing.com/BL%20Series.htm

Do you know of the build quality of VTI manufacturing audio racks? I am considering buying an audio rack (BL 304) and VTI's prices are very reasonable.
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post #23 of 25 Old 12-09-2013, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBWIII View Post

If you don't want to DIY and have some money to spend, this company makes beautiful stuff that is designed for HT components. I don't have one but I've seen some of these models in person. I was considering the Nora myself. It's 22" deep but you can remove the rear panel if you have XLR connectors that will stick out past that depth.

http://www.bdiusa.com/theater/index.shtml

So glad you posted this. We've been looking high and low for something to fit in with our Mid Century Modern home and décor. Now we just have to decide between the Corridor or the Ola in walnut. Wife is thinking Ola, but I have a feeling after she talks to her coworkers we will end up with the Corridor. She's a commercial interior designer, so they have lots of interior decorators on staff.
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post #24 of 25 Old 12-09-2013, 08:51 AM
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If you choose the Corridor and have a center channel speaker, be mindful that you might feel compelled to open the doors to listen to it. And if you have a center channel, regardless of which one you go with, look at the specs on the BDI website and make sure that it will fit. I am lucky that I didn't get the Nora since it has a vertical support that bisects the top compartment, making it too shallow for my modestly-sized center. (The two you're considering look like they have larger center compartments though so I think you'll be fine.)

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post #25 of 25 Old 12-09-2013, 09:16 AM
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Currently my center speaker is on a stand over the top of the TV. I don't know how reasonable this will be after the upgrade from the 60ST50 to the 65VT60. That will put the center really high in the air relative to our seating position. I'm also on a shorter console now than the Corridor is. The Ola is 7" shorter than my current console though. If I am estimating correctly, my 7" high center will fit in the center area of both consoles.

I think either will work. I have pretty modest equipment requirements. Denon AVR-X4000, HTPC, and a PS3.
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