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post #1 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 01:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I recently purchased a RX-V575 receiver and am having trouble getting my subwoofer to work. All of my speakers (Epic Sound 7.1) are working fine but I am not getting any bass from my sub. I have a non-powered subwoofer with only 2 input and 2 output speaker wire connections. I tried using the bi-amp ports with the bi-amp option enabled but that did not work. I tried hooking my sub up to the front speaker ports but that did not work either (though when I chained the front speakers from the sub, they worked fine). I am positive the sub works and that the wires/connections/positive and negatives are all correct and working.

 

Since I am completely new to sound systems I had a friend help me set some of them up yesterday. The sub was working fine then but I did not have enough wire to set it up like I wanted. After buying wire today, unhooking what he had done previously and getting everything laid out like I wanted, I ran into the problem with my sub. He said he hooked the sub up through the front speaker ports which is why I tried it like that tonight (He was drunk and I do not recall where from where I unplugged the sub.) The guy at bestbuy is the one who suggested using the bi-amp ports.

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post #2 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 02:58 AM
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Sell the sub and purchase a "powered" sub with its own amp as the AVR is not designed to power your current sub.

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post #3 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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After reading a ton of stuff online, I realized the same thing, that my sub isnt powered and is not being powered by my AVR. But, when my buddy originally hooked it up, I was getting plenty of bass from it (I live in an apartment complex....I cant turn it up very loud most of the time). I dont know why I cant get it to work now.

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post #4 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Sell the sub and purchase a "powered" sub with its own amp as the AVR is not designed to power your current sub.
Gee, I wouldn't have expected such a unhelpful suggestion from somebody at AV Science. You sound like a salesman from BestBuy. The subwoofer was apparently working just fine for the OP before he changed the wiring. All that is necessary is to determine what changed.
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 09:39 AM
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OP, what is the make and model of the subwoofer? If the front speakers that are daisy chained through the subwoofer work, it indicates that the wiring from the AVR is likely correct.

FWIW your AVR is quite capable of powering typical un-powered subwoofers at modest levels. I ran one for years on an AVR with less power.
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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The sub came with the Epic Sound 7.1 Digital Series system I have. I dont see any type of model number on the sub or the box it came in. The only other information for the sub is some of the specs that is listed on the back.. 8 ohm impendnce, 300W power handling 87dB +/- 3dB, freq. range 35hz-250hz.

 

I got a suggestion to run it inline with the main channel but I have no idea what that means..... you are dealing with a complete noob to sound systems just fyi.

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post #7 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 10:19 AM
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I have a non-powered subwoofer with only 2 input and 2 output speaker wire connections.

Run the speaker wires from Front Left and Front right binding posts from the avr and hook them with Left and Right input binding posts on the sub respectively. Run another pair of speaker wires from Left and Right output binding posts on the sub to the Left and Right speakers.

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post #8 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braveheart123 View Post


Run the speaker wires from Front Left and Front right binding posts from the avr and hook them with Left and Right input binding posts on the sub respectively. Run another pair of speaker wires from Left and Right output binding posts on the sub to the Left and Right speakers.

 

I have done this already, set the AVR to no sub (which forced the fronts to be considered to be 'large') and am getting sound from those speakers but still no bass from the sub. This seems to be the common way to run a non powered sub from what I have been reading/hearing but its not working for me. I am going to triple check all my wiring and if its all right I guess I will need to check my sub on an amp to make sure its actually working.

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post #9 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 10:54 AM
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Get hold of a 9V battery. Run a wire from any one input binding posts on the sub to the 9V battery. If the cone moves, it's good. If not then either the sub is dead or the wire running from the crossover inside the sub to the driver is unhooked or the crossover is busted.

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post #10 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 10:56 AM
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If you are getting sound from your speakers then crossover is working fine. The speaker wire between the driver and crossover is probably unhooked.

History is written by those who have hanged heroes ...

The best EQ is no EQ ...

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Dual Dayton RSS390HO-4 Reference 15 Build For HT

Main System: Klipsch RF-82 II, Klipsch RC-62 II, RS-52 II, Onkyo 5010, Rythmik FV15HP, PSB S300
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post #11 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braveheart123 View Post

If you are getting sound from your speakers then crossover is working fine. The speaker wire between the driver and crossover is probably unhooked.

 

could you explain that in laymens terms and how I would go about fixing it?

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post #12 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
could you explain that in laymens terms and how I would go about fixing it?


Just like you have a crossover inside your AVR to send low frequencies to a subwoofer and high frequencies to speakers; there must be a crossover inside your passive subwoofer. That routes high frequencies to the speakers through Left/Right binding posts and low frequencies to the driver inside the passive subwoofer. That crossover is usually fixed at 80Hz.

Since your speakers are playing the sound when you hook them up through the sub, that part of crossover (High Pass Filter) is working for the higher frequencies. The part that routes the lower frequencies (Low Pass Filter) to the driver inside the box is not working properly. As your sub doesn't play back any sound. So, either the LPF is busted OR the wire that connects the driver with the crossover board inside the box is unhooked.

This all holds assuming your connections are correct.

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The best EQ is no EQ ...

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Dual Dayton RSS390HO-4 Reference 15 Build For HT

Main System: Klipsch RF-82 II, Klipsch RC-62 II, RS-52 II, Onkyo 5010, Rythmik FV15HP, PSB S300
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post #13 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 11:18 AM
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If nothing works, the only way to check is to open up the driver and see if the cable between the terminals on the driver and crossover is connected or not. If it is connected, use a 9V battery and directly connect it with the terminals on the driver itself using a speaker cable. If the driver still doesn't move, it surely is busted.

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The best EQ is no EQ ...

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Dual Dayton RSS390HO-4 Reference 15 Build For HT

Main System: Klipsch RF-82 II, Klipsch RC-62 II, RS-52 II, Onkyo 5010, Rythmik FV15HP, PSB S300
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post #14 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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After reading up on what I have and possible solutions for my problem, I am kind of leaning toward buying a powered sub. The speakers/sub I have did not cost me one penny and im only $450 in on the AVR and all the cables (wire/hdmis/opticals/surge protector) so another 200 or so for a decent sub seems worth it to bring the whole package together.

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