Anthem MRX Receivers - 310, 510, 710 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 163 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4861 of 4890 Old 02-08-2017, 07:50 AM
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4K Video

Hey guys,
Need your advice. I currently have a 2.1 setup (PSB X2T's, Rythmik FVX15 and a NAD integrated), but have been eyeing the MRX 720 to move to an atmos setup. I bought surrounds last week used at a really good price in preparation.
I can't afford the 720 at the moment and i don't even have heights yet, so i was thinking of getting an MRX 510 used for under $1000 CAD. I have a 4k Vizio M series. It doesn't have HDR (2015 model), and i mainly use my Nvidia Shield TV 4k box which doesn't have optical out. Will the 510 pass through 4k properly? I won't be missing out on anything video wise while getting all the supported sound formats right?

Thanks for your help!

NAD D1050 > NAD C320BEE / MiniDSP 2x4 > PSB X2T's / Rythmik FVX15
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post #4862 of 4890 Old 02-08-2017, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
No one would be jeopardizing good auto-detecting Anthem work. They would be making it better by getting the most out of their sub if it's capable of playing lower than what 11th order set it to. ARC defaults to 11th order to protect subs that don't have protection. Otherwise people without protection built into their subs would scream ARC ruined my sub and now I have to buy a new one.

Flat doesn't change a single thing on any graph except the subwoofer graph. All the other speaker graphs will remain exactly as they were whether you change to flat or not.
...
In principle I would agree - but there is one thing to consider: Any frequency at the lower end, that doesn't reach sufficient levels of dBs, just stresses the amp section while being pretty useless. Eliminating such signals for the given sub (or any speaker really) will leave more power budget for the "audible" frequencies. Lifting unnecessary work from the speaker cone/coil is also a plus, the bass range can be extended.
Good subs with own amp section and signal treatment should take care of this on their own. But there surely are a lot subs/speakers out there that will benefit from the ARC treatment with a lower limit. It remains a case by case decision, the Anthem manual simply can't make a clear statement here. But everybody is save to give flat settings a try. Anybody who would manage to brake his sub by doin so is just getting rid of garbage IMHO. I doubt there are Anthem customers with such subs, but hey you never know.

Last edited by mazpri; 02-08-2017 at 11:44 AM. Reason: errata
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post #4863 of 4890 Old 02-08-2017, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mazpri View Post
In principle I would agree - but there is one thing to consider: Any frequency at the lower end, that doesn't reach sufficient levels of dBs, just stresses the amp section while being pretty useless. Eliminating such signals for the given sub (or any speaker really) will leave more power budget for the "audible" frequencies. Lifting unnecessary work from the speaker cone/coil is also a plus, the bass range can be extended.
Good subs with own amp section and signal treatment should take care of this on their own. But there surely are a lot subs/speakers out there that will benefit from the ARC treatment with a lower limit. It remains a case by case decision, the Anthem manual simply can't make a clear statement here. But everybody is save to give flat settings a try. Anybody who would manage to brake his sub by doin so is just getting rid of garbage IMHO. I doubt there are Anthem customers with such subs, but hey you never know.
I agree there is a point where you’re just pushing power and not getting any more usable SPL and just stressing the sub and distorting. Flat will let your sub play as low as it’s capable of and it’s the job of the sub’s internal protection to handle it, which is how it would be if you bought a receiver without ARC that doesn’t offer the option of setting the roll off. If a sub breaks playing down to its capabilities then it’s either a DIY sub with no protection or like you said the sub is garbage to begin with.

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post #4864 of 4890 Old 02-09-2017, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dcolaco View Post
Hey guys,
Need your advice. I currently have a 2.1 setup (PSB X2T's, Rythmik FVX15 and a NAD integrated), but have been eyeing the MRX 720 to move to an atmos setup. I bought surrounds last week used at a really good price in preparation.
I can't afford the 720 at the moment and i don't even have heights yet, so i was thinking of getting an MRX 510 used for under $1000 CAD. I have a 4k Vizio M series. It doesn't have HDR (2015 model), and i mainly use my Nvidia Shield TV 4k box which doesn't have optical out. Will the 510 pass through 4k properly? I won't be missing out on anything video wise while getting all the supported sound formats right?

Thanks for your help!
I think MRX may be a limiting factor if 4 K video passes through it. I see the following issues:

  1. HDMI is capable of 4K, but only up to 30 fps.
  2. There is no HDCP 2.2 support (content protection).
I don't know about your 4k Vizio M series TV, but maybe there is an optical there. For understanding what you loose you should have a look to how audio received over the HDMI input is converted over optical.

Media Server Audio: Teufel Connector 2 Media Server Video: XBMC TV: Panasonic TX-L37ET5E BD/DVR:Panasonic BMR-BWT735 Media player: Teufel Connector 2, WD TV Live (Remoto/cucina), HT Rec: ANTHEM MRX 510, Front: Woofer & Tweeter, Center: 2 Woofer & Tweeter, Surround: Bose acoustimass 5 series II, Sub: SVS SB2000
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post #4865 of 4890 Old 02-09-2017, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ebr9999 View Post
I think MRX may be a limiting factor if 4 K video passes through it. I see the following issues:

  1. HDMI is capable of 4K, but only up to 30 fps.
  2. There is no HDCP 2.2 support (content protection).
I don't know about your 4k Vizio M series TV, but maybe there is an optical there. For understanding what you loose you should have a look to how audio received over the HDMI input is converted over optical.


Thanks! I think i'm going to wait it out for a MRX 720 then. In the mean while, gotta sell my DAC and eventually my Amp. Hopefully prices drop soon. Just itching to make use of the LFE channel when watching movies with my Rythmik sub haha.

NAD D1050 > NAD C320BEE / MiniDSP 2x4 > PSB X2T's / Rythmik FVX15
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post #4866 of 4890 Old 02-14-2017, 02:55 AM
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Guys I need some advice.

I'm going to move to a new house where all the loudspeaker cables are going to be integrated in the walls and floors and they come together at one point at the livingroom where the whole installation will be installed.

First of all the set:
AV-Receiver: MRX710
Power AMP: Classé CA-2200
Stereo AMP with HT Throughput: Classé CP-700
Loudspeakers: B&W 803D, 805S and HTM2

I used MIT Magnum M3 Bi-Wire for the stereo part of the set, but that cable wasn't possible to integrate in our new house. For the HT part I used Kimber 8TC.

Now i'm looking for an affordable cable that I can buy on a role. This because of the lengths that I need. In total I need approximately 40 meters of cable. The cable can't be thicker that 18mm. What can you guys suggest?

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post #4867 of 4890 Old 02-19-2017, 09:32 AM
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I have an MRX 710. When trying to enable the Level Calibration ==> Test Noise, if I press the remote's Select button there is no On/Off choice presented using a dropdown. The menu item remains active (Off) but no other options are shown. I need the test noise. It worked a few years ago when I used it with a previous ARC calibration. I haven't tried to use it since then except for this weekend, so I'm surprised.

The latest firmware has been installed for some time - other activities work OK.

I'm considering a factory reset, or calling tech support (in 2 days) as last resorts.

Please advise.
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post #4868 of 4890 Old 02-19-2017, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post

I'm considering a factory reset, or calling tech support (in 2 days) as last resorts.

Please advise.

I have set up an MRX at my parents house and I vaguely remember that the test noise was only available for certain setups. It may that it only works for the analog pre-outs but not hdmi.
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post #4869 of 4890 Old 02-19-2017, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Danonano View Post
I have set up an MRX at my parents house and I vaguely remember that the test noise was only available for certain setups. It may that it only works for the analog pre-outs but not hdmi.
The last time I did a speaker level calibration Test Noise was sent out via the speaker terminals and a sound level meter measured them. I don't see how that could relate to your suggestion.
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post #4870 of 4890 Old 02-19-2017, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post
I have an MRX 710. When trying to enable the Level Calibration ==> Test Noise, if I press the remote's Select button there is no On/Off choice presented using a dropdown. The menu item remains active (Off) but no other options are shown. I need the test noise. It worked a few years ago when I used it with a previous ARC calibration. I haven't tried to use it since then except for this weekend, so I'm surprised.

The latest firmware has been installed for some time - other activities work OK.

I'm considering a factory reset, or calling tech support (in 2 days) as last resorts.

Please advise.
I have tested with my 510 a couple of days ago and it worked.
I selected on and then each time the cursor selects one of the speakers below the test noise is emitted.
It goes off if I exit from the sub-menu.

Also noted something that appears as a little bug: all speaker levels are reset to 0. Not even restored by saved user settings (you need reloading ARC, or re inputting them manually).

Media Server Audio: Teufel Connector 2 Media Server Video: XBMC TV: Panasonic TX-L37ET5E BD/DVR:Panasonic BMR-BWT735 Media player: Teufel Connector 2, WD TV Live (Remoto/cucina), HT Rec: ANTHEM MRX 510, Front: Woofer & Tweeter, Center: 2 Woofer & Tweeter, Surround: Bose acoustimass 5 series II, Sub: SVS SB2000
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post #4871 of 4890 Old 02-19-2017, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post
I have an MRX 710. When trying to enable the Level Calibration ==> Test Noise, if I press the remote's Select button there is no On/Off choice presented using a dropdown. The menu item remains active (Off) but no other options are shown. I need the test noise. It worked a few years ago when I used it with a previous ARC calibration. I haven't tried to use it since then except for this weekend, so I'm surprised.

The latest firmware has been installed for some time - other activities work OK.

I'm considering a factory reset, or calling tech support (in 2 days) as last resorts.

Please advise.
I have an MRX-500 (with an Outlaw 5 ch amp); I do ARC calibrations quite regularly and have never had a problem manually testing sound levels with my Radio Shack Sound Level Meter....I would wait for Tuesday, and call tech support before doing a factory reset....

Anthem MRX-500,Outlaw 7500 5ch amp
Oppo BDP-103, Sony XBR-65X930D, Rotel RP-855, Phillips BDP-7501
Paradigm Studio 100 Fronts,Paradigm Studio ADP-590 Surrounds
Paradigm Studio cc-590 Center, Martin Logan Dynamo subwoofer, DefTech Supercube 4000
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post #4872 of 4890 Old 02-19-2017, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Danonano View Post
I have set up an MRX at my parents house and I vaguely remember that the test noise was only available for certain setups. It may that it only works for the analog pre-outs but not hdmi.
I'm thinking of the Oppo 103. For the Anthem I use ARC so haven't used the test noise.
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post #4873 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 02:42 AM
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Network access problem

Hello guys,

I am getting ready to send my MRX 710 in for repair tomorrow, but thought I would check if anyone else has had the same issue. I recently got the unit back from repair (unrelated issue) and now I cannot connect to it through my home network or using a direct connection.

When I plug in the network cable,the lights on the connector do not come on, and the unit is not able to pull an IP from the router. In the info section it says «LAN Status: Disconnected». I have tried the following:

Auto IP
Manual IP
Direct connection to the computer with static IP
Loading factory defaults
Factory reset

I never had this issue before. The receiver would connect to the router instantly and I would be able to access it no problem.

Is there anything else I could try?

Regards,
Mattias
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post #4874 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattias Godeseth View Post
Hello guys,

I am getting ready to send my MRX 710 in for repair tomorrow, but thought I would check if anyone else has had the same issue. I recently got the unit back from repair (unrelated issue) and now I cannot connect to it through my home network or using a direct connection.

When I plug in the network cable,the lights on the connector do not come on, and the unit is not able to pull an IP from the router. In the info section it says «LAN Status: Disconnected». I have tried the following:

Auto IP
Manual IP
Direct connection to the computer with static IP
Loading factory defaults
Factory reset

I never had this issue before. The receiver would connect to the router instantly and I would be able to access it no problem.

Is there anything else I could try?

Regards,
Mattias
Maybe try a cable (cat5) you know works with other connected devices? If it still fails then I would say something may still be wrong with the Anthem.

Anthem MRX-500,Outlaw 7500 5ch amp
Oppo BDP-103, Sony XBR-65X930D, Rotel RP-855, Phillips BDP-7501
Paradigm Studio 100 Fronts,Paradigm Studio ADP-590 Surrounds
Paradigm Studio cc-590 Center, Martin Logan Dynamo subwoofer, DefTech Supercube 4000
Roku Ultra, DIRECTV Genie DVR, OPPO Sonica DAC
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post #4875 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattias Godeseth View Post
...I recently got the unit back from repair (unrelated issue) and now I cannot connect to it through my home network or using a direct connection.
I have an MRX710. I calibrated speaker levels a few days ago. It has the latest firmware.

Just to be sure, Direct Connection usually means: using a regular network cable, plug one end of it into the receiver and the other end into the PC (the PC should ideally already have ARC 2 software installed). If successful, after a few moments you can verify the IP address in the receiver's Network/RemoteControl -> IP Configuration menu. Expect to see IP = 192.168.x.y . I didn't change anything on the PC (a laptop that nominally connects to the LAN using WiFi) - everything simply worked automatically. I personally have never had a connection to the router work, but the direct connection method works for me.

If you still have trouble connecting maybe you could give a very detailed explanation, using bullets, of exactly what you're doing, not skipping even the tiniest details.
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post #4876 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post
I have an MRX 710. When trying to enable the Level Calibration ==> Test Noise...
Test Noise now works.

Here are the things Anthem tech support asked me to try. I ultimately performed them many times, sometimes switching sequences around, because first attempts didn't fix the problem. I lost track of which steps or combinations of them finally fixed the problem because I spent a lot of time slavishly retrying possible remedies in disbelief.

  • factory reset - I verified the receiver's ARC info was blanked out in its menu. Before the first reset, values were visible.
  • power cycle
  • pull the power plug and hit the Power button a few times, to drain capacitors. Insert the Power plug, then power on and retry the Test Noise function.
What didn't help (in both cases, using 2 otherwise reliable FAT32 formatted USB 2 flash drives, the receiver said "no updates found")

  • Couldn't downgrade the firmware
  • Couldn't re-install the currently installed firmware
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post #4877 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 09:45 AM
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Maybe try a cable (cat5) you know works with other connected devices? If it still fails then I would say something may still be wrong with the Anthem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post
I have an MRX710. I calibrated speaker levels a few days ago. It has the latest firmware.

Just to be sure, Direct Connection usually means: using a regular network cable, plug one end of it into the receiver and the other end into the PC (the PC should ideally already have ARC 2 software installed). If successful, after a few moments you can verify the IP address in the receiver's Network/RemoteControl -> IP Configuration menu. Expect to see IP = 192.168.x.y . I didn't change anything on the PC (a laptop that nominally connects to the LAN using WiFi) - everything simply worked automatically. I personally have never had a connection to the router work, but the direct connection method works for me.

If you still have trouble connecting maybe you could give a very detailed explanation, using bullets, of exactly what you're doing, not skipping even the tiniest details.
Thanks for the suggestions. I believe I have exhausted all options. The company that serviced the unit said they replaced the MCU board. Could this be related to the issue I am having now?
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post #4878 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I believe I have exhausted all options. The company that serviced the unit said they replaced the MCU board. Could this be related to the issue I am having now?
Ask a friend to try troubleshooting with your unit. Extra eyes can't hurt.

If that doesn't work then contact the repair company ASAP and ask them if they tested networking before shipping the receiver back to you. Maybe they'll give a reason why the repair couldn't be, or may be, responsible for your problem. I wouldn't speculate here as to the cause.
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post #4879 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 11:43 AM
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@Mattias Godeseth I'd suggest if you sent it in with the network working and got it back without your best bet is contacting the vendor.

Anthem MRX 720, ELAC F5, SVS Ultra Center, Klipsch R-2650 Sony XBR 75X940D & 75X910C, OPPO BDP-93, Samsung UBD K8500, Roku Ultra, Hopper 3, HTPC, HSU VTF-15H MK2
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post #4880 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 11:45 AM
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... I believe I have exhausted all options.
With all respect do you realize what you're doing here? You're pretending your troubleshooting methodology is infallible instead of taking time to list each troubleshooting step for us and its observed result.

Sometimes in my experience, and I'm certainly including myself in the group of people who have had tech problems, people state they tried everything (with not enough stated details) and "it's still not working". Then we find some troubleshooting step was missed after all, when we peel away the layers.
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Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post
Ask a friend to try troubleshooting with your unit. Extra eyes can't hurt.

If that doesn't work then contact the repair company ASAP and ask them if they tested networking before shipping the receiver back to you. Maybe they'll give a reason why the repair couldn't be, or may be, responsible for your problem. I wouldn't speculate here as to the cause.
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@Mattias Godeseth I'd suggest if you sent it in with the network working and got it back without your best bet is contacting the vendor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post
With all respect do you realize what you're doing here? You're pretending your troubleshooting methodology is infallible instead of taking time to list each troubleshooting step for us and its observed result.

Sometimes in my experience, and I'm certainly including myself in the group of people who have had tech problems, people state they tried everything (with not enough stated details) and "it's still not working". Then we find some troubleshooting step was missed after all, when we peel away the layers.

Thanks again for the suggestions. I am certainly not saying my troubleshooting is infallible, I just haven't had time to list all the steps I've been through yet (busy night). Sorry if I didn't make that clear earlier on. I will try once more and list the steps.
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post #4882 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 12:39 PM
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One of the reasons I’m reluctant to continue troubleshooting is the lights on the network connector on the receiver do not come on. From memory, that happened straight away before I sent it in for repair. Is that the case with your units?

Anyway, here are the steps I have been through:

Direct connection:
• Cat5 network cable between PC and receiver
• Windows 10 PC in static IP mode (IP: 192.168.1.2, subnet mask: 255.255.255.000, gateway: 192.168.1.1)
• Receiver in direct connect mode (IP: 192.168.1.3, subnet mask: 255.255.255.000, gateway: 192.168.1.1)
• IP control enabled

LAN connection, auto:
• Cat5 network cable between router (Apple AirPort Extreme) and receiver
• Receiver in auto IP mode
• IP control enabled

LAN connection, manual:
• Cat5 network cable between Apple AirPort Extreme router and receiver
• Receiver in manual IP mode (IP: 10.0.1.30, subnet mask: 255.255.255.000, gateway: 10.0.1.1)
• IP control enabled

My PC is a 2013 model, and I have recently upgraded the network card. I did this while the receiver was being serviced, but I don’t think that should be a factor?

I have also tried connecting through the Anthem apps on my iPhone. This worked prior to the repair.

Finally, I have tried pinging the receiver through CMD on the PC and through the Fing network app on the iPhone. Also to no avail.
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post #4883 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 05:46 PM
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In a bright room I connected the receiver first, then PC, and I didn't pay attention to the LED status. As soon as I saw the PC was connected to the receiver during the receiver search dialog I stopped worrying about networking.

My experience is with Windows PCs.

Drilling down

  • To ensure port 14999 is available disable any firewall during testing.
  • (receiver) Is Network/RemoteControl ->TX status = On?
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post #4884 of 4890 Old 02-26-2017, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattias Godeseth View Post
One of the reasons I’m reluctant to continue troubleshooting is the lights on the network connector on the receiver do not come on. From memory, that happened straight away before I sent it in for repair. Is that the case with your units?

Anyway, here are the steps I have been through:

Direct connection:
•Cat5 network cable between PC and receiver
•Windows 10 PC in static IP mode (IP: 192.168.1.2, subnet mask: 255.255.255.000, gateway: 192.168.1.1)
•Receiver in direct connect mode (IP: 192.168.1.3, subnet mask: 255.255.255.000, gateway: 192.168.1.1)
•IP control enabled

LAN connection, auto:
•Cat5 network cable between router (Apple AirPort Extreme) and receiver
•Receiver in auto IP mode
•IP control enabled

LAN connection, manual:
•Cat5 network cable between Apple AirPort Extreme router and receiver
•Receiver in manual IP mode (IP: 10.0.1.30, subnet mask: 255.255.255.000, gateway: 10.0.1.1)
•IP control enabled

My PC is a 2013 model, and I have recently upgraded the network card. I did this while the receiver was being serviced, but I don’t think that should be a factor?

I have also tried connecting through the Anthem apps on my iPhone. This worked prior to the repair.

Finally, I have tried pinging the receiver through CMD on the PC and through the Fing network app on the iPhone. Also to no avail.
Sounds like the repair people forgot to connect the NIC after carrying out the repair.

My last resort would be to hard reset the unit.

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post #4885 of 4890 Old 02-27-2017, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zforgetaboutit View Post
In a bright room I connected the receiver first, then PC, and I didn't pay attention to the LED status. As soon as I saw the PC was connected to the receiver during the receiver search dialog I stopped worrying about networking.

My experience is with Windows PCs.

Drilling down

  • To ensure port 14999 is available disable any firewall during testing.
  • (receiver) Is Network/RemoteControl ->TX status = On?

Thanks again. Yes, I have tried disabling the firewall and I have forwarded port 14999. I have also tried changing the port number. TX status is enabled.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisGTL View Post
Sounds like the repair people forgot to connect the NIC after carrying out the repair.

My last resort would be to hard reset the unit.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Thank you for your reply. Yes, that is my best guess too. Hard reset would be: holding setup while also holding the power button and wait for "reset" in the display? That is, the same as master reset as described in the manual?
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post #4886 of 4890 Old 02-27-2017, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattias Godeseth View Post
Thanks again. Yes, I have tried disabling the firewall and I have forwarded port 14999. I have also tried changing the port number. TX status is enabled.





Thank you for your reply. Yes, that is my best guess too. Hard reset would be: holding setup while also holding the power button and wait for "reset" in the display? That is, the same as master reset as described in the manual?
Exactly right. Good luck!

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post #4887 of 4890 Old 03-20-2017, 03:38 AM
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HI Guys, new to Anthem. Just purchased a 3 year old MRX710 from an AV forums member, upgraded from a 8 year old Sony STR 2400ES, sounds amazing, beautiful sound.

I just wanted to know if someone could look at my ARC charts and let me know what you think.

Also the last owner never done any of the firmware updates, would it be worth doing them and what are they for?

I have 7.1 set up, Tannoy Arena's for all satellites and a Tannoy TS10 sub

Loving my new toy, thanks in advance
Indy
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Arc File 1.pdf (107.9 KB, 39 views)
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post #4888 of 4890 Old 03-27-2017, 02:23 AM
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Anthem provides version history in txt files

Quote:
Originally Posted by Indiana Bones View Post
H....
Also the last owner never done any of the firmware updates, would it be worth doing them and what are they for?
I have 7.1 set up, Tannoy Arena's for all satellites and a Tannoy TS10 sub
Loving my new toy, thanks in advance
Indy
Hi Indy. Odd to see your surrounds perform better at 100Hz an below than your fronts n center. In case these should be performing same sth is wrong. Redo the setup using QuickMeasure to position and toe in the correct angle of your speakers. Leave one setting to all auto to start with and for comparison of manual settings. Setting no.1 looks messed up alot, subwoofer at 300-700Hz? These Tannoys can't do 80Hz crossover.
Afaik the firmware has changed some things and is recommended for latest ARC PC software, the downloads include a version history. I recommend to use the latest ones only, both firmware and ARC software.
This is for the latest firmware:
Quote:
Changes in v1.2.9:

1. When using ARC v1.1.2882 or later to load a file, there is no longer a 3 dB level reduction when ARC is enabled in MRX.

2. Fixes for certain cases of sub channel muting after changing speaker configuration or tone settings.

3. Fix for AnthemLogic not appearing on selection list under certain conditions.

4. After Process Analog Input was set to No in setup menu, the corresponding N/A menu items weren't being grayed - fixed.

5. When Back Amp was set to Zone 2 and its volume was set much higher than Main volume, noises sometimes resulted while making other changes - fixed.

6. Fix for Zone 2 volume being too high if power-on volume was lowered in setup menu and Z2 was power cycled.


Changes in v1.2.6:

1. DSP meant for main outputs was being applied to headphone output - fixed.
2. Tuner station was misreported via IP during station seek - fixed.
3. PLII Music adjustments (Center Width etc) weren't being saved at power-off - fixed.
4. HDMI issue with certain 4K TV - fixed.
5. Renamed Control 4 drivers:

Anthem MRX-710.c4i
Anthem MRX-510.c4i
Anthem MRX-310.c4i

to

receiver_Anthem_MRX-710.c4i
receiver_Anthem_MRX-510.c4i
receiver_Anthem_MRX-310.c4i

Note: For new ARC measurement or upload, ARC v1.1.2882 should be used as v1.0.1.7 may not connect reliably.


Changes in v1.2.1:

1. Fixed issue where with certain source components, the first half-second of music tracks was muted.

2. Fixes for AnthemLogic availability for certain speaker configurations, and output levels.

3. Added Control4 SDDP.

4. Various fixes and improvements for serial and IP communication and feedback (refer to notes in latest IP/serial command list).

5. Zone 2 audio output wasn't always muting when Main was on and Zone 2 was off - fixed.
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post #4889 of 4890 Old Yesterday, 01:09 PM
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MRX 720 or 510

Good afternoon, everyone! I've also posted this in the MRX Gen 3 forum.

I have a quick question for the masses. I'm about done with my basement redo which will start off with a 5.1 setup using GoldenEar Triton 3+ L/R (maybe 2+), SuperCenter XL and Invisa 650s for rears for now. It has been wired for Atmos but that could be a year or two down the road.

Since I have a Panny VT65 plasma that is not 4K, do I really need the bump to the MRX 720 or can the 510 do me well for now and for the next few years? I've seen the 510 go for 1/3 the price of the 720.



Thanks!

dwgncat

Starting to complete the basement home theater build now looking into components
Basement Home Theater - Panasonic TC-65VT60
Family Room - Panasonic TC-P55ST30, ZVOX 580
Master - Pioneer Kuro 5080
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post #4890 of 4890 Old Today, 04:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwgncat View Post
Since I have a Panny VT65 plasma that is not 4K, do I really need the bump to the MRX 720 or can the 510 do me well for now and for the next few years?
I'd recommend the 510. It can do 4k loop through as well so it might even get you started, there is always options to route video directly without going via the AVR too. You can add some additional amps in case power is lacking. For 4k i'd never ever invest in future usecase today, rather wait for HDMI2.1 units hitting the market and until everything in HDR is sorted out. Also for Atmos n DTSX there might be room for improvements or more budget friendly units some months down the road.
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