Anthem MRX Receivers - 310, 510, 710 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 2690 Old 11-16-2013, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Warren View Post

I believe you are using the wrong type of cable between your pc and the receiver. The wiring configuration is different when directly connecting terminal devices. This is because you don't have a hub or switch on router between those devices.
This as not been true for a long time in modern hardware, you can use cable with cross pair or strait pair anywhere and it will work (the controller chip are able to sense it and switch internally as necessary).

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post #182 of 2690 Old 11-16-2013, 05:23 PM
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Already posted this in samsung forum, thought I'd also try it here...

Just bought the Samsung PN60F8500 Plasma a few months ago and had all my sources hooked up directly to the TV via HDMI.
All excited, I decided to upgrade my audio as the next step. I wanted to take advantage of all the new HDMI surround sound formats so I figured a new ROTEL 1562 would do the trick. Well after a couple of weeks of trouble shooting I could not get the ROTEL to switch HDMI sources consistently without getting the pink screen of death. So I did the obvious thing and switched HDMI cables, then I tried different inputs on the TV all to no avail. The only input that worked was HDMI 2 on the Samsung. So I replaced the ROTEL assuming it was the problem, still no luck. So I am going crazy, tried DVDO quick6 splitter, bypassed the ROTEL. After that, I gave up on ROTEL and tried the Anthem MRX 710. Finally, it worked, for one day! After 40 min. On the phone with tech support, they determined it was the amp and not the TV so I now i'm on my second anthem receiver! So far after 4 hours, everything in working!

So what's the problem right? I don't trust the Samsung. Am I wrong? Is it the TV? I'm on my fourth receiver! When will this one fail?

Has anyone else had problems with this model Samsung, Anthem, etc. when switching through a receiver?

Danny
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post #183 of 2690 Old 11-16-2013, 07:20 PM
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^ Your problem sounds suspiciously like "New Cable-itis". HDMI plugs are just friction fit. It only takes a tiny shift of plug in socket to screw up the signal quality. When folks put in new gear, they often use new cables, fresh from the packaging -- complete with the U-bend kinks in the cable from how it was packaged. What happens is the combo of cable weigh and those kinks -- which haven't smoothed out yet -- put strain on the plugs shifting them in the sockets. It is even worse if you have to bend the cable near the socket or if the socket is vertically oriented so that gravity is also tugging on the plug.

The symptom is that things work OK -- for a while -- and then everything seems to fall apart because the plug has, over time, shifted in the socket.

SO, what you should do is take a careful look at how your HDMI cables are run. Are there still kinks in the cables that might be pulling on the plugs? Do you need to bend the cable near the plug to get things to fit in the space available? Is cable weight (gravity) tugging on the plugs? Is anything else (weight of other cables) putting pressure on the HDMI cables near the plug ends?

One check is the "wiggle test": While the problem is happening, gently grab an HDMI cable about an inch from the plug, gently push the plug STRAIGHT into the socket, and give it a little "wiggle". Wait -- still holding the plug -- for about 6 seconds (long enough for HDMI to do a couple handshake retries). Does the problem go away? If so, you may need to support that cable near the plug.

HDMI is an end to end protocol so check both ends of each HDMI cable from the source device through to the display.

If lower bandwidth video works but higher bandwidth video still doesn't work, then that is almost always a sign of cabling problems.

You can check by lowering the output resolution of your Source device and turning off Deep Color if it has that option. In the new MRX units you can set Deep Color to 8-bit (i.e., normal output) in the HDMI Configuration. You can also try video Pass Through so that the output of the MRX tracks the input video resolution. NOTE: 480p (not 480i) with Deep Color OFF is the "simplest" HDMI signal.

Also keep in mind that HDMI cables are sold in two flavors: Normal and High Speed. You should be using ONLY High Speed cables -- again, end to end. Look for cables sold as "High Speed" or "For 1080p" or "Category 2", which all mean the same thing. Normal cables are only rated for use up to 1080i. Normal cables may work with 1080p, but not as reliably as High Speed cables.

If 480p and 1080i video work, but 1080p video does not work, or if turning Deep Color OFF makes it work, then that suggests marginal cabling -- such as that plug shifting I just mentioned. Anything in the HDMI signal path should be suspect. Daisy chained cables, adapters, wall plates, gizmos like Darbee Darblet, HDMI switches, ANYTHING in the HDMI path could be the cause of HDMI cabling issues.

Another surprising truth is that HDMI cables which are TOO SHORT can also be a source of problems. The "best" length for the HDMI cable between any two devices is 6 feet (2 meters). The parts of the HDMI transmitter/receiver chips which correct for what happens to the HDMI signal as it traverses the cable are tuned to consider 6 feet to be the sweet spot length. Most folks know that cables that are too long can cause problems. The surprise is that cables that are too short can ALSO cause problems -- again because the assumptions built into the HDMI chips are not met. And just as some people use long cables without issues, others will use short cables without issues. The 6 foot length just gives you the best odds.

NOTE: The new Redmere technology cables don't follow this Rule of Thumb on length. They have an active circuit in one plug end -- and are thus directional, i.e., you have to plug them in the right way around -- which makes the Redmere cable, whatever its actual length, act like a 6 foot cable as far as the HDMI chips are concerned.
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post #184 of 2690 Old 11-18-2013, 04:08 AM
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I have had my MRX 510 for 10 days and twice I have experienced that there has been no sound when it is turned on. And it is the same no matter which input I choose (set top box, FM radio etc.) The only way to get the sound back seems to be to reset it completely. (Load Factory Default).

Am I the only one having had this problem?
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post #185 of 2690 Old 11-18-2013, 05:03 AM
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^ Your MRX likely needs warranty service. Call Anthem, and they can help diagnose this.
--Bob

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post #186 of 2690 Old 11-18-2013, 08:29 AM
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Curiosity got the better of me and I picked up an MRX 510 on Saturday to replace my 300. I do think it sounds better as others have said, and ARC-1M is much faster and easier to run, but I received what seemed to be a blank CD with the microphone calibration file on it. I can see a track burned onto it, but my Mac and Parallels both register it as a blank disc. I still had the mic from my 300 set up, so I used it instead. I emailed Anthem and hopefully they will provide me with a .cal file. As with my surprise that they would drop to 5.1 on the 310, I am a bit puzzled when they also dropped the switched outlet from the back panel. I had a cooling fan for my amp plugged into this and along with the 12V trigger, it was a nice setup. I also miss "All Ch Stereo" from the listening modes. I can't imagine people writing into Anthem to complain about it, so I don't see why they would not include it on this generation. I liked the sound of it, but I mainly used it to warm up all of my speakers for 30 minutes before running ARC. I guess I could use AnthemLogic, but it isn't the same. I do like the 20 inputs to set up, but they seemed to drop the idea of "presets". I was watching Pacific Rim at night and had "late night mode" engaged, but after it finished and I switched inputs, it was still on. I can see both sides of this, but if you forget it's on, it could be a while before you remember to turn it off.

The video also seems much cleaner, but I noticed that it doesn't show 1080p24 in the front display for the input source, just 1080. Not sure if this is a setup error on my part, but I switched a few things on the Oppo and couldn't get it to change. I also couldn't figure out the FM tuner as I didn't see anything in the manual. I figured out how to assign channel presets, but in the top right corner of the display it shows "Mono". I not sure if this is what it is receiving as I had a pretty good signal on a local station, or whether it is a option to prevent lesser reception quality from phasing in and out of stereo. I'll see if I can find an amplified antenna and try to get it to change.

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post #187 of 2690 Old 11-18-2013, 10:27 AM
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I have the same issue of loosing sound sometimes when my receiver is in standby overnight; and instead of turning off the 510; I reset my apple tv to bring sound back. My guess was its related to hdmi pass-thru and hoping its fixed in an update. I'm going to try and turn off the hdmi pass through on stand-by since I don't use it and see if that fixes the issue. I wish anthem had release notes on the updates and maybe a bug list.
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post #188 of 2690 Old 11-18-2013, 11:47 AM
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Anyone else having trouble opening saved measurements? I get this message when I am trying to open them..

failed to de-serialized file file may be corrupt

Content cant be converted to type the Float. Line 6, Position 18..

All I got is a "WTF" to that.


Anyone confused.gif
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post #189 of 2690 Old 11-18-2013, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Therien View Post

Anyone else having trouble opening saved measurements? I get this message when I am trying to open them..
failed to de-serialized file file may be corrupt

It sounds like you are using the old version of ARC-2. You can download v1.0.1 which should fix the problem here:
http://anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php
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post #190 of 2690 Old 11-18-2013, 01:12 PM
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@ xatic

Updated it two weeks ago, but you were absolutly right man, thanks!
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post #191 of 2690 Old 11-19-2013, 06:39 AM
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Hello,

Saw a mention of powering on but no audio.

Was wondering if anyone has had any glitches, as new product usually means there are issues to iron out.

Looking to get back with Anthem, figured I'd wait for a few firmware releases first though. Had a Statement D1 with ARC and loved it, only sold it as wanted to integrate everything with HDMI and have been kicking myself since selling it..............
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post #192 of 2690 Old 11-19-2013, 07:41 AM
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Could anyone shed some light on how the D2 would compare to the 510/710. I have an opportunity to trade my five year old D2 in and get a credit towards a new receiver. Are they comparable or is one better than the other?
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post #193 of 2690 Old 11-19-2013, 07:01 PM
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Wondering whom is using the 710 or 510 as a preamp and their impression of it with separate amps?

Thanks

Don

Don Lynch
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post #194 of 2690 Old 11-19-2013, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~Ohdee~ View Post

Could anyone shed some light on how the D2 would compare to the 510/710. I have an opportunity to trade my five year old D2 in and get a credit towards a new receiver. Are they comparable or is one better than the other?

If you already have a D2, my recommendation would be that you keep it.

The 510/710 will add the ability to input 7.1 HDMI LPCM and also LPCM up to 192KHz. The D2 is limited to 5.1 and 96KHz. But for example all movie tracks are 48KHz so no problem. The 510/710 also add the ability to accept HDMI Bitstream input of lossless Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA Blu-ray tracks. With the D2 your player decodes those to LPCM so again, except for the 5.1 input limit, no problem.

Presuming you have the ARC kit for your D2, I suspect that going to the 510/710 will be a step down in audio quality.

For video for Blu-ray discs it is probably a wash -- neither the D2 nor the 510/710 will be doing any significant processing of video for HDMI Input to HDMI Output.
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post #195 of 2690 Old 11-20-2013, 12:41 AM
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Hello,

 

Do Anthem MRX (310, 510 or 710) have enough power for a 5.1 setup of B&W 683 x2, 686 x2, HTM61 x1 and ASW610? Or is a power amp needed to run the 683's? 

 

Thanx

Mike

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post #196 of 2690 Old 11-20-2013, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nerd81 View Post

Hello,

Do Anthem MRX (310, 510 or 710) have enough power for a 5.1 setup of B&W 683 x2, 686 x2, HTM61 x1 and ASW610? Or is a power amp needed to run the 683's? 

Thanx
Mike

yes!
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post #197 of 2690 Old 11-20-2013, 01:22 AM
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yes!

Thanx for your response but are you answering the first or the second question?

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post #198 of 2690 Old 11-20-2013, 02:02 AM
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Thanx for your response but are you answering the first or the second question?

You should be okay with the 510 and 710. Maybe someone who has the 310 can answer your question. I have the B&W 805D and don't use an external amp.
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post #199 of 2690 Old 11-20-2013, 03:38 AM
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Thanks alot for your answer Brian!

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post #200 of 2690 Old 11-20-2013, 12:56 PM
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Are there forum sponsors that sell Anthem? Just wondering if I would be able to put money towards a sponsor here or not.
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post #201 of 2690 Old 11-20-2013, 11:51 PM
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I had an input just stop working tonight. I switched from HDMI 4 to 6 and got my signal back after testing it direct to the TV. Haven't switched it back to see if the problem persists. I just got a black screen after switching activities with a Harmony One. OSD wouldn't even show up on the TV, but it was responding to commands as the display changed, and once I reassigned the input it has worked fine since. I also get a slight popping from my sub whenever it locks onto a signal, like after fast forwarding my PVR. It's not a relay click like on my Denon 4810 and not as loud as the initial pop when I power on the sub.

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post #202 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 12:00 AM
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Anybody has problem with subwoofer?
When I send Test Noise from MRX 710 I get the signal from subwoofer. But when I play anything 5.1 or 2.0 material, I get no sound from subwoofer.
The subwoofer is ON on the Speaker configuration and ARC is also ON for the Input.
I also unplugged and replugged it but didn't help.

Any idea is appreciated.
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post #203 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 12:55 AM
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^ There are two sets of speaker configurations you can define. Make sure the Sub is enabled in the one you are using for the Input that's not producing Sub output.

Some Subs come out of standby based on the volume of the input signal. You may not be generating enough volume to the Sub. See if the Sub has an "always On" choice to test this.

Of course for your 2.0 content, there won't be any Sub output if you've configured the LF/RF speakers as Full Range (i.e., disabled Crossover processing for those 2 channels).
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post #204 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelseyhorne View Post

Just wondering if anyone else on this forum has experienced any of the following issues.

1. The onscreen display goes all distorted , and the only way to fix it is to turn power off then on again.
2. Mrx 510 sometimes locks up in idle? the blue light on the power turns off but the unit is still on, cannot change volume or anything without unplugging.

any help would be great.

GIve Anthem Tech Support a call. Your 510 may need warranty service. They can help you diagnose this.
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post #205 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ There are two sets of speaker configurations you can define. Make sure the Sub is enabled in the one you are using for the Input that's not producing Sub output.

Some Subs come out of standby based on the volume of the input signal. You may not be generating enough volume to the Sub. See if the Sub has an "always On" choice to test this.

Of course for your 2.0 content, there won't be any Sub output if you've configured the LF/RF speakers as Full Range (i.e., disabled Crossover processing for those 2 channels).
--Bob

Thanks Bob,
I cranked it and got some base from subwoofer but it is hardly any base. I maximized the base on the 710 and maximized the gain on the sub and still not much.
Attached are my charts. I appreciate your comments. I have one more issue. When I play songs from Youtube, the sound gets distiorted. I have to turn it off and on then get the sound.

ARC_2.jpg 194k .jpg file
ARC_3.jpg 192k .jpg file
ARC_4.jpg 196k .jpg file
ARC_8.jpg 157k .jpg file
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ARC_8.jpg (157.2 KB, 40 views)
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post #206 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 03:12 PM
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Well, my bass problem is solved. I found that the Anthem logic Music does not produce enough base.
There is something wrong with the Anthem Logic Music. Anthem Logic Cinema works fine.

Now I have a different problem. When I raise the volume to reference level (-10 to -8 db), MRX shuts itself down.

Anybody has this problem.
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post #207 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

Well, my bass problem is solved. I found that the Anthem logic Music does not produce enough base.
There is something wrong with the Anthem Logic Music. Anthem Logic Cinema works fine.

Now I have a different problem. When I raise the volume to reference level (-10 to -8 db), MRX shuts itself down.

Anybody has this problem.
That last one sounds like the MRX is being driven beyond the limit of what it's amps can handle to power your speakers under load. What speakers do you have and what is their efficiency and ohms? It's also possible that you have a bad speaker wire somewhere too that under load is causing the MRX to shutdown.

"What do you mean it's too loud? My ears aren't even bleeding yet!"

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post #208 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 06:14 PM
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Has anyone compared the 510 to the 710 directly? Is it really worth the extra money or would one be well served with the 510? I know the 700's amplifier was completely different, but is there a huge difference between the 510 and 710?
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post #209 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlynch34 View Post

Wondering whom is using the 710 or 510 as a preamp and their impression of it with separate amps?

Thanks

Don

I will let you know on Tuesday. My 510 arrives then. I sold my Anthem AVM 30 and will be doing this exact setup into my Anthem PVA-7.
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post #210 of 2690 Old 11-21-2013, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

That last one sounds like the MRX is being driven beyond the limit of what it's amps can handle to power your speakers under load. What speakers do you have and what is their efficiency and ohms? It's also possible that you have a bad speaker wire somewhere too that under load is causing the MRX to shutdown.

Thanks Leggaire.
I have Paradigm signature S6 for front C3 for center and ADPs for surround.
They are very efficient and have nominal 8 ohms.
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