The "Official" Onkyo TX-NR929 Owner's Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 543 Old 09-13-2014, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by onkyose View Post
I am playing around and added a 2nd amplifier to the 929.
Running 11.2 with an older Akai apm;icier for the 11.2 configuration so the Akai amp powers the From Wide speakers.
I have a Harman Kardon AVR 430 (80 watts per channel - vintage 2003.) and am connecting the HK to the Front speaker pre-outs and then the front speakers to the HK.
When I run the Audyssey MuiltEQ Full Setup what volume level (Low - Med - High or give me a % of volume?) should I set the HK to?
May be start with 50% volume on your external amp.
Check the level after Audyssey has run. If it shows at or around 0db, you are all set. If it it is way + or -, adjust the volume accordingly (if level is + then reduce the volume else increase).
I think this is how everyone sets the volume on external amp.
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post #542 of 543 Old 09-13-2014, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rsar View Post
I have just purchased and hooked up the 929 and am very disappointed in the sound quality. (The sound on my previous Onkyo stopped working again after it had been repaired, so I decided to replace it).

Am I doing something wrong with the setup? I used the Audyssey and the sound from that setup process seemed strong, but when I go to a DVD or go to Cable the sound just is not strong and I am not sure I am hearing much beyond the front speakers (Center and front surround).

Any suggestions?

Try this: Override Audyssey and set your own speaker levels like this:

Front Left: +6dB
Center: +8dB
Front Right: +6dB (the front left and rights should be equidistant from you for these settings to work)
Surround Left: +6dB
Surround Right: +6dB (again, these settings are good if you are totally equidistant between the two surrounds; if not, lower the one closest to your seating position until it "seems" closer in volume to the other)
Sub: This one is tough; try +2dB for now...

Now -- under your SOURCE SETUP in the SETUP menu, find IntelliVolume and adjust the setting for the input you're having volume issues with (DVD/BD etc.) to +10dB.

Report back...

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post #543 of 543 Old Today, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ptlurking View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by stikle 

Yes. A trigger is a trigger. It's really weird there's no Zone 1 trigger though.

My solution was to run the trigger cable from Zone 2 to my second amp, and then program my Harmony remote to also turn on Zone 2 when the 929 is turned on.

Awesome! Thanks so much for the speedy response.
Time for me to pull the trigger!
I am a little late to the "trigger" here since I just got my 929 over the weekend but I wanted to share what I did here.

The above solution should work if you always use the remote control but I have also heard that people have troubles with the Audyssey setup turning off zone 2 and that shutting down external amplifiers during its setup that were triggered by it which makes the setup not work (and they have to bypass the trigger during setup) so I went with a hardware approach...

Onkyo seems to make it harder and harder to get a trigger every couple of generations! My tx-sr804 has a switched 120v outlet that I can use directly on my Belkin PF60 or could plug a wall wart into if I want a 12v trigger. On my tx-nr809 I had to use a 5v trigger with a custom cable that connects a mono plug to the rear USB ports power pins . Now on the tx-nr929 even the rear USB is gone.... This is getting irritating... This is probably not something most users do since most rely on internal amplifiers, don't run cooling fans, etc but to me it is annoying.

So anyway... I looked at 2 ideas for a trigger and finalized on one that works very well.

Avoided Serial Port solution that could work:

I looked at some crazy solutions like triggering from the DB9 serial port DTR/DTS/etc pins and while the diode/transistor circuits aren't that bad it is still a pain and should still use an external power supply to be safe and reliable. So I looked elsewhere...

Avoided USB solution that could work

I could connect to the front panel USB port but would need to leave the door open. I could also open the case and solder on a tap off from that port but it would void my warranty so that isn't really an option.

Final HDMI trigger Solution:

I looked up the specs for HDMI and it requires a supply with a 50mA current capacity. Fortunately my Belkin PF60 only requires 10mA on its trigger input!

So I went into my pile of cables and found an old HDMI 1.3 cable that I don't need and cut an end off from it. I isolated the 5V wire (red in this case but could be any color) and the bare ground wire. I then put a meter on them while turning on the 929 in various modes with the HDMI sub port enable and disabled and found that the HDMI Sub Out port indeed outputs 5V on HDMI even if it is disabled (which is nice so that I don't have to enable the port just for the trigger).

Note: Be sure that your trigger won't draw more than 50mA or at best it won't work and at worst you could possibly damage the HDMI port or draw too much power from the HDMI board.

I then found a solder type mono cable end and connected it to the HDMI +5 and ground pins which works very well as a trigger. Take care to make sure that the data signals that were cut do not short into the cable shields or other cables. I cut them off at various lengths to ensure that they are isolated and put shrink wrap on them. I then put shrink wrap on the +5V line and then around everything to ensure that I have a sound mechanically strong cable with no shorting wires.

Note: If you use HDMI passthrough this trigger method won't work. I however don't recommend using HDMI passthrough on these receivers because it leaves the HDMI board on and on my 809 it was always warm to the touch and ultimately I had to have the board replaced. Instead I now use an external HDMI 1:4 splitter/repeater that was about $40 so that I can put my receiver in full standby when I am not using it in the main room. This works fine because I really only want to have a single source to multiple rooms. If I wanted all sources I would probably also need a switch but those are also simple and cheap.

This HDMI trigger cable seems like a lot of work compared to just always pushing a additioal power buttons but I did it for a specific reason. I have a 200mm laptop cooling pad on top of the receiver to keep temperatures down (it makes a huge difference). I don't ever want that fan off (or the one on the external amplifier) when the receiver is on so therefore it should be controlled by the receiver's switch.


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