*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 314 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9391 of 9807 Old 06-18-2017, 05:28 PM
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I just use Dyn EQ myself. I've tried increasing subwoofer levels beyond what is set by Audyssey and it just does not sound natural to me... though I am definitely not a bass head and tend not to play very loud. It seems that most enthusiasts prefer a bass emphasis.

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post #9392 of 9807 Old 06-18-2017, 06:18 PM
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4K Pass Through

I have an SR5010. I am looking at getting a 4K TV. Will this receiver pass through all 4K content and HDR formats, such as Dolby Vision, HDR 10+ and the newer HDR formats introduced like Active HDR that LG is putting in its 2017 model sets?
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post #9393 of 9807 Old 06-18-2017, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by srpawski View Post
I have an SR5010. I am looking at getting a 4K TV. Will this receiver pass through all 4K content and HDR formats, such as Dolby Vision, HDR 10+ and the newer HDR formats introduced like Active HDR that LG is putting in its 2017 model sets?
No. Denon confirmed it will not pass Dolby Vision and they will not be pushing an update. And they never promoted it as being Dolby Vision capable.

One might safely or conservatively assume that other new or future video formats are likely not going to be supported, either.

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post #9394 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
No. Denon confirmed it will not pass Dolby Vision and they will not be pushing an update. And they never promoted it as being Dolby Vision capable.

One might safely or conservatively assume that other new or future video formats are likely not going to be supported, either.
Ok, so if one has a UDH player, such as an Oppo UDP-203, how do you get it to pass Dolby Vision and HDR signals to the tv, by running a separate HDMI cable from player to tv and then run another to the output on the receiver for the rest of the video switching? Also, how do we take advantage of the newer higher end audio formats like those that require HDMI audio connections that optical audio can't pass?
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post #9395 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srpawski View Post
I have an SR5010. I am looking at getting a 4K TV. Will this receiver pass through all 4K content and HDR formats, such as Dolby Vision, HDR 10+ and the newer HDR formats introduced like Active HDR that LG is putting in its 2017 model sets?
Although these 2015 models can pass 4k HDR10 video, they cannot pass the other HDR formats, although at present only Dolby Vision is possible (via firmware update on the 2016 models and on board the 2017 models).

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Originally Posted by srpawski View Post
Ok, so if one has a UDH player, such as an Oppo UDP-203, how do you get it to pass Dolby Vision and HDR signals to the tv, by running a separate HDMI cable from player to tv and then run another to the output on the receiver for the rest of the video switching? Also, how do we take advantage of the newer higher end audio formats like those that require HDMI audio connections that optical audio can't pass?
1. Correct, one HDMI passes video to the TV and the other passes the HD audio to the non-Dolby Vision HDR.
2. The only higher end audio format currently is DD+ which can be passed to the SR5010 via HDMI(ARC); otherwise to pass HD Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD-MA requires an AVR with eARC capability which at present may be possible only on the 2017 models via a future firmware update.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 06-19-2017 at 01:24 PM.
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post #9396 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Although these 2015 models can pass 4k HDR10 video, they cannot pass the other HDR formats, although at present only Dolby Vision is possible (via firmware update on the 2016 models and on board the 2017 models).



1. Correct, one HDMI passes video to the TV and the other passes the HD audio to the non-Dolby Vision HDR.
2. The only higher end audio format is DD+ which requires an AVR with eARC capability which at present may be possible only on the 2017 models via a future firmware update, otherwise your best bet is to use an external source (other than the TV) to stream the DD+ audio (eg. from Netflix 4k movies) to the SR5010.
So it is possible to change the audio output settings on the AVR to have it get its audio from an HDMI cable? How does that work in the settings so that it does not display the signal from the connected HDMI cable? I figured if you used a direct connection to the TV from the player you'd be screwed because the only audio source output would have to be from optical audio connected from the player to the receiver, but you are saying that you can instead of connecting an optical audio cable from the player to the AVR just the secondary HDMI cable from the HDMI 1.4 output on the player to the AVR and configure the AVR to get its audio from the blu ray player source selection from the HDMI cable instead? I guess this makes sense since that cable would also be passing a video signal but it would not display that picture since you would have the TV on a different HDMI input not being the one from the AVR but rather the player. Do these players simultaneously output video and audio signals from both of their HDMI outputs?
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post #9397 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by srpawski View Post
So it is possible to change the audio output settings on the AVR to have it get its audio from an HDMI cable? How does that work in the settings so that it does not display the signal from the connected HDMI cable? I figured if you used a direct connection to the TV from the player you'd be screwed because the only audio source output would have to be from optical audio connected from the player to the receiver, but you are saying that you can instead of connecting an optical audio cable from the player to the AVR just the secondary HDMI cable from the HDMI 1.4 output on the player to the AVR and configure the AVR to get its audio from the blu ray player source selection from the HDMI cable instead? I guess this makes sense since that cable would also be passing a video signal but it would not display that picture since you would have the TV on a different HDMI input not being the one from the AVR but rather the player. Do these players simultaneously output video and audio signals from both of their HDMI outputs?
All 4k/UHD Blu Ray players released to date have two HDMI outputs which are able to pass video to the TV and audio only to the AVR.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 06-19-2017 at 03:15 AM.
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post #9398 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The only higher end audio format is DD+ which requires an AVR with eARC capability which at present may be possible only on the 2017 models via a future firmware update, otherwise your best bet is to use an external source (other than the TV) to stream the DD+ audio (eg. from Netflix 4k movies) to the SR5010.
I get DD+ with Atmos over regular ol' ARC (by casting Vudu to my TV) from my Vizio P75 to my Marantz SR6010.
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post #9399 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
I get DD+ with Atmos over regular ol' ARC (by casting Vudu to my TV) from my Vizio P75 to my Marantz SR6010.
Correct. My mistake. Edited my post.
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post #9400 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
All 4k/UHD Blu Ray players released to date have two HDMI outputs which are able to pass video to the TV and audio only to the AVR.
I thought the main thing they had the dual HDMIs for wasn't the audio, but rather to bypass the receiver if its old enough to only support 1.4. I guess I never logicalized the passing of HDMI-necessary audio formats via simultaneous output to both outputs. So I guess then, really, the only inconvenience that these model year receivers present is not being able to use the receiver to switch video sources in order to get the newer 4K tech.

My other question is this - do you guys think renting of 4K will exist on a large scale as it has with Blu Ray, or do you think unless you are prepared to buy movies in 4K to watch, that Netflix and company will stay the primary service delivery method of 4K content? Seems like renting a physical disk is pretty much over.
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post #9401 of 9807 Old 06-19-2017, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srpawski View Post
I thought the main thing they had the dual HDMIs for wasn't the audio, but rather to bypass the receiver if its old enough to only support 1.4. I guess I never logicalized the passing of HDMI-necessary audio formats via simultaneous output to both outputs. So I guess then, really, the only inconvenience that these model year receivers present is not being able to use the receiver to switch video sources in order to get the newer 4K tech.



My other question is this - do you guys think renting of 4K will exist on a large scale as it has with Blu Ray, or do you think unless you are prepared to buy movies in 4K to watch, that Netflix and company will stay the primary service delivery method of 4K content? Seems like renting a physical disk is pretty much over.
IMO...

I don't think renting a physical disk is going to be as big as streaming or having some sort of device at home where you'd download the movie and watch it. Data is too cheap and bandwidth is top high for physical stores like blockbuster or even Redbox to be as big as it was. Also people are more convenience oriented.


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post #9402 of 9807 Old 06-20-2017, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by srpawski View Post
I thought the main thing they had the dual HDMIs for wasn't the audio, but rather to bypass the receiver if its old enough to only support 1.4. I guess I never logicalized the passing of HDMI-necessary audio formats via simultaneous output to both outputs. So I guess then, really, the only inconvenience that these model year receivers present is not being able to use the receiver to switch video sources in order to get the newer 4K tech.

My other question is this - do you guys think renting of 4K will exist on a large scale as it has with Blu Ray, or do you think unless you are prepared to buy movies in 4K to watch, that Netflix and company will stay the primary service delivery method of 4K content? Seems like renting a physical disk is pretty much over.
1. Correct. The main purpose of a dual HDMI BDP is to bypass an AVR that is not capable of passing the video (eg. 3D on HDMI 1.3 models, 4k on HDMI 1.4 models, etc.) but still being able to pass the HD audio to the AVR (otherwise, if the BDP is only connected to the TV, the best audio available from the TV would only be DD 5.1).

2. Although rental discs usage is slowly dropping about 15%/year (with streaming services increasing roughly 15%/year), reliable/smooth streaming of 4k video will generally require a "dedicated" broadband connection speed of at least 25 Mbps (ie. no other users in the household on that connection) and considering the vast majority of broadband connections in the USA are well below 25 Mbps, let alone generally not being dedicated to just movie streaming, 4k rental discs are bound to appear at some point (actually Netflix is considering adding 4k UHD discs for rental).
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post #9403 of 9807 Old 06-20-2017, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
(actually Netflix is considering adding 4k UHD discs for rental).
That would be awesome. I haven't seen that in the press. What is the plan? Timeline? Cost anticipated?
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post #9404 of 9807 Old 06-20-2017, 06:59 AM
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Auto switching inputs

Somehow, around the time of the last firmware update to my 5010, thre receiver stopped auto-switching between CBL/SAT and TV Audio when I move between DirecTV and streaming apps on my TV and I can't figure out why. What setting am I missing?
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post #9405 of 9807 Old 06-20-2017, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by nobrien1 View Post
Somehow, around the time of the last firmware update to my 5010, thre receiver stopped auto-switching between CBL/SAT and TV Audio when I move between DirecTV and streaming apps on my TV and I can't figure out why. What setting am I missing?
Set the "TV Audio Switching" setting (p. 177 Owner's manual) to ON.
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post #9406 of 9807 Old 06-21-2017, 07:55 PM
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I know this has been brought up numerous times in this thread and other marantz threads. But has anyone found a permanent solution to the trigger out's failing? I have a AVP 7702MKII and I've had to reset the damn thing several times in the year that I've owned it in order to get the trigger outs to start working again. They'll work for month our two and then fail again. The trigger out is powering on my Halo A51 amp.

When it fails I have to reset it to factory defaults and then reload my configuration file. I've even tried resetting it at least 5 times in a row before loading my configuration file. I've also tried saving a new configuration file before resetting the processor and then reloading the configuration file.

It works when I do the factory reset but only for another month or two. Then the trigger outs quit working again. I NEVER touch the trigger wire to the processor or amp unless the power is disconnected from both the processor and the amp. So I know that's not causing the issue. I also replaced the trigger wire with a brand new cable but I still have to reset it every month or two.

Maybe I have a defective unit but I know others have complained about this as well. For the money we spend on these things we shouldn't have to put up with this crappy engineering. Since this issue has been around for the last couple of years, at least, you'd think they would have redesigned the trigger out circuit by now. But apparently not.

Is this still an issue with the current AVP 7703 and other current Marantz units?
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post #9407 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 06:56 AM
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Another 7702mk2 question:
I'm having horrible volume swings from programs on TV to commercials. Oppo and Apple TV and tv apps like Vudu and You tube and Amazon do not suffer the large volume swings when commercials interrupt programs. I'm using fiber from the LG B6 oled to the 7702.

Did the FCC rules change to allow commercials to be super loud?
Is there a tv or pre/pro setting I can utilize to limit volume during commercials?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

Thanks a bunch,
AK
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post #9408 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by airkitty View Post
Another 7702mk2 question:
I'm having horrible volume swings from programs on TV to commercials. Oppo and Apple TV and tv apps like Vudu and You tube and Amazon do not suffer the large volume swings when commercials interrupt programs. I'm using fiber from the LG B6 oled to the 7702.

Did the FCC rules change to allow commercials to be super loud?
Is there a tv or pre/pro setting I can utilize to limit volume during commercials?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

Thanks a bunch,
AK

You can set the Audyssey Dynamic Volume to one of three settings to suit your preference, although "Medium" is likely the most common setting.
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post #9409 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 10:49 AM
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Set the "TV Audio Switching" setting (p. 177 Owner's manual) to ON.
Thank you for the suggestion. TV Audio Switching is on but it isn't working.
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post #9410 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 11:02 AM
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Thank you for the suggestion. TV Audio Switching is on but it isn't working.
Try powering off and unplugging the TV and AVR for 10 minutes. Then power on the TV, pause 5 seconds, then the AVR.
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post #9411 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 11:23 AM
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way to test for distortion and equal volume

I occasionally have distortion and static in my speakers. They are Paradigm prestige F75 towers. It's much more on the right than the left. Also, the right seems quieter as well. The Audyssey EQ graphs don't look too different and I have the fronts set at the same volume -1dB. If I lean toward the tweeter at a -20dB, I can hear a little static so it's not the cleanest signal.

This distortion generally happens during bass scenes but is not consistent. I generally listen with MV at -20dB at max. I have the crossovers set to 60Hz and theses speakers range goes down to 42Hz. I've had it happen with the cross-over at 80Hz as well.

So it could be the AVR, the speakers, or the speaker wire (banana plug).

1) Thoughts on this?
2) How can I test to see if they output coming out the same?
3) Is there a way to test for distortion?

I have a multi-meter, a measurement mic, and REW. So I have some means of testing.

I'm leaning speaker-wire then AVR as the culprits.

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post #9412 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 01:30 PM
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Airplay speakers and the nr1606

This may have come up somewhere already in the hundreds and hundreds of replies, but a quick search did not yield my result. This is also likely a silly question, but I am fairly new to the whole receiver world.

I have the nr1606 with two wired speakers. I have two other 'wireless' speakers connected to an Apple Airport Express in another room.

I get that the nr1606 can receive audio from an iPhone/iTunes and play seamlessly with my 'wireless' speakers in the other room.

Is there a way to pair the 'wireless' speakers to the nr1606 so that any audio fed into the receiver (for example, playstation 4) can play from the 'wireless' speakers? I don't know if the receiver could act as an "airplay device" similar to how an iPhone/iTunes works or if since the speakers are connected to the same network is enough to make the 'wireless' speakers play from the receiver. My guess is no.

Then the other question is, what can I do besides running a wire from the speakers in the other room to the receiver to use those speakers (and don't say move the speakers!)? Are there any alternatives for wireless speakers aside from Bluetooth?

Any information is greatly appreciated, thanks!
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post #9413 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 02:47 PM
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Issue with On Screen Volume - 6010

Has anyone had an issue with the 6010 not displaying the volume level on screen? If so, any suggested fixes?

In the last week or so, my on screen volume has disappeared. I have tried manipulating every setting, including the on screen volume setting in the setup. The issue is persistent across all HDMI inputs. I am hoping to avoid a hard reset. Any help is appreciated.

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post #9414 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by slick7108514 View Post
Issue with On Screen Volume - 6010

Has anyone had an issue with the 6010 not displaying the volume level on screen? If so, any suggested fixes?

In the last week or so, my on screen volume has disappeared. I have tried manipulating every setting, including the on screen volume setting in the setup. The issue is persistent across all HDMI inputs. I am hoping to avoid a hard reset. Any help is appreciated.
I have that issue with anything that doesn't force a 1080p signal. The only device it works for me with is my SteamLink. Both AppleTV and my HTPC, I cannot see the volume OSD. If I could find my posts from a while back it would better explain it:

edit here: *Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread

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post #9415 of 9807 Old 06-22-2017, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick7108514 View Post
Issue with On Screen Volume - 6010



Has anyone had an issue with the 6010 not displaying the volume level on screen? If so, any suggested fixes?



In the last week or so, my on screen volume has disappeared. I have tried manipulating every setting, including the on screen volume setting in the setup. The issue is persistent across all HDMI inputs. I am hoping to avoid a hard reset. Any help is appreciated.


If the ip scaler is on then the osd will appear. When I had this issue I unplugged it for a while and when plugged in again it worked.


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post #9416 of 9807 Old 06-23-2017, 03:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
I occasionally have distortion and static in my speakers. They are Paradigm prestige F75 towers. It's much more on the right than the left. Also, the right seems quieter as well. The Audyssey EQ graphs don't look too different and I have the fronts set at the same volume -1dB. If I lean toward the tweeter at a -20dB, I can hear a little static so it's not the cleanest signal.

This distortion generally happens during bass scenes but is not consistent. I generally listen with MV at -20dB at max. I have the crossovers set to 60Hz and theses speakers range goes down to 42Hz. I've had it happen with the cross-over at 80Hz as well.

So it could be the AVR, the speakers, or the speaker wire (banana plug).

1) Thoughts on this?
2) How can I test to see if they output coming out the same?
3) Is there a way to test for distortion?

I have a multi-meter, a measurement mic, and REW. So I have some means of testing.

I'm leaning speaker-wire then AVR as the culprits.
A quick test to try is to switch the speaker cables left/right. First, do this at only the AVR end, and see if the difference you heard before between left and right stays with the AVR output or with the wire/speaker combo. If it stays with the AVR output, the AVR is the culprit. If it stays with the wire/speaker, then switch the speaker cables left/right at the speaker end, and see if the difference stays with the wire or with the speaker.
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post #9417 of 9807 Old 06-23-2017, 06:51 AM
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If the ip scaler is on then the osd will appear. When I had this issue I unplugged it for a while and when plugged in again it worked.


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unplugged the HDMI cable or the power cable?

Marantz 7010 for 7.2.4
2 x Paradigm Prestige 75F's
1 x Paradigm Prestige 55C
8 x Paradigm CI Pro P65-R's
Sub 2 x Rythmik LVX12's
TV: LG 65B6
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post #9418 of 9807 Old 06-23-2017, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by lightbox View Post
A quick test to try is to switch the speaker cables left/right. First, do this at only the AVR end, and see if the difference you heard before between left and right stays with the AVR output or with the wire/speaker combo. If it stays with the AVR output, the AVR is the culprit. If it stays with the wire/speaker, then switch the speaker cables left/right at the speaker end, and see if the difference stays with the wire or with the speaker.
Great idea! I'll combine that with REW!

Marantz 7010 for 7.2.4
2 x Paradigm Prestige 75F's
1 x Paradigm Prestige 55C
8 x Paradigm CI Pro P65-R's
Sub 2 x Rythmik LVX12's
TV: LG 65B6
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post #9419 of 9807 Old 06-23-2017, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
unplugged the HDMI cable or the power cable?


For me it was the power cable. I basically hard reset the device and it worked again. Also I forgot to mention in my last post I turned off the scaler and the osd before I pulled the plug. Then I turned it on afterwards after I restored the power connector


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post #9420 of 9807 Old 06-23-2017, 07:20 AM
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unplugged the HDMI cable or the power cable?
Unplugging from wall power for about 10 minutes is called a "soft reset". That'll often clear up problems.

Either a "hard reset" (which wipes out Audyssey and other settings) or a "network reset" (which clears only the network settings; both of which involve front-panel buttons) usually is needed if a "soft reset" doesn't work.

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Fronts=NHT 2.9+AC2, FH+TM=DefTech PM1000, LCR+TM amped
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