The "OFFICIAL" 2016 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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The "OFFICIAL" 2016 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ

2016 Denon AVR models ---> S510BT/S720W/S920W/X1300W/X2300W/X3300W/X4300H/X6300H

D+M USA has released information on the new 2016 Denon models. The X6300H will be the highest model released for 2016 while the 2015 Denon X7200WA will remain the "flagship" D+M AVR and has its own thread (actually 2 of them, (1) X7200WA Owners thread, and (2) Denon 2014 Atmos Owner's thread).


What's new for the 2016 models?

S720W/S920W/X1300W/X2300W/X3300W/X4300H/X6300H
- Dual band 802.11n Wifi (5Ghz added to previously only single band 2.4Ghz)
- Bluetooth Class 1 (X4300H/X6300H only) - up to 98ft/30m
- Auto Lip sync delay (increased from 200ms to 500ms adjustment)
- RC Source Select (allows changing of an HDMI standby pass through source while the AVR is in Standby mode - 2015 and older models require powering on the AVR to change the pass through source)
- Playback of high resolution audio files (DSD 5.6 Mhz - increased from 2.8 Mhz) via USB and network
- DTS:X / DTS Neural:X (via firmware update on X3300W and lower models and installed at the factory on the X4300H/X6300H)
- Video Mode - new "Bypass" setting (S920W/X2300W only as a result of the Video Conversion setting being removed)
- Audyssey iOS/Android phone app (est $20) - using the Audyssey mic, provides the ability to customize target curves, save them, and share them with others (ETA April 2017)
- The "H" series models (X4300H/X6300H only) include a HEOS module which will allow streaming the currently dozen music services using the HEOS iOS/Android app to the "H" model as well as allow streaming 2CH sources to one or more HEOS wireless speakers placed around the home
- Auto Update (X4300H/X6300H only) - (default - OFF), allows for firmware updates while the unit is in Standby
- Auro 3D (X6300H) - able to use powered Surround Back L speaker post for VOG/Top Surround

What was dropped from the 2015 models?

S920W/X2300W
- Analog --> HDMI conversion

X4300H/X6300H
- Front Wide speakers (in fact all major brands dropped Front Wide speakers on their 2016 models )
- Web Control - to be replaced by a new app capability with SAVE/LOAD via USB - early 2017)
- vTuner - must use TuneIn (on board or using HEOS app) for internet radio which doesn't allow the user to manually add new stations as is the case with vTuner
- iPod/iPhone connectivity via USB
- Video Select (iPod/USB)

See post 7 for additional specific 2016 vs. 2015 model differences

-------------------------

- All "S" series models have a 2 year warranty if purchased new/open-box from an authorized dealer
- All "X" series models have a 3 year warranty (2 years in Canada) if purchased new/open-box from an authorized dealer
- All refurbished models have a 1 year warranty if purchased from an authorized refurb dealer


Denon model web page info and Owner manual links

- S510BT - MSRP $279, 5.2 CH, 70W, HDMI In/Out (5/1) - (cont'd from 2015)

This is a 5CH AVR which was first released in 2015 and will continue for 2016 as the entry level model which features Bluetooth, but is not a networking model. Firmware updates would be installed via the USB jack. It includes a mic for a basic (ie. non-Audyssey) single position speaker/sub calibration. It can display the GUI over 2D/3D video on HDMI1 and HDMI2 and pass through 4k/60Hz video from HDMI3/HDMI4/HDMI5 but cannot display the GUI over 4k video. It does not feature: HDMI(ARC), HDMI Control, Audyssey, speaker posts (uses spring clips) or Component Video inputs/output.

http://usa.denon.com/us/product/home...rsht/avrs510bt

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRS510BT/NA/EN/index.php


- S720W - MSRP $479, 7.2 CH, 75W, HDMI In/Out (6.1) - avail April (now)

Upgrading from the S510BT adds 1 more HDMI input and two more audio channels for a 7CH model and the lowest model to feature Audyssey MultEQ (6 mic positions), networking, HDMI Control, HDMI(ARC), DSD via USB/network source, Atmos 5.2.2, DTS:X (via firmware update summer 2016) and uses speaker posts. Firmware updates are installed via a network connection or USB. It can display the GUI over 2D/3D video from all HDMI inputs, but not over 4k video. It features 5.1 + Zone 2 capability using the Surround Back speaker posts for Zone 2. There are no Zone 2 pre-outs. No noticeable difference in power, however, audio quality should be improved after running Audyssey.

http://usa.denon.com/us/product/home...ersht/avrs720W

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRS720W/NA/EN/index.php

Press release on the S720W and S920W ---> https://usa.denon.com/us/news/news


- S920W - MSRP $579, 7.2CH, 90W, HDMI In/Out (8/2, main/main outputs) - avail April (now)

Upgrading from the S720W adds 2 more HDMI inputs, 1 more main zone monitor output (eg. when using a TV and PJ), 2 component video inputs / 1 output, 4k/30Hz upscaling, on board Web Control (able to use laptop/tablet for setup/control), and SAVE/LOAD of configuration file which can be restored if doing a factory reset. No noticeable difference in either power or audio quality.

http://usa.denon.com/us/product/home...ersht/avrs920W

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRS920W/NA/EN/index.php


- X1300W - MSRP $599, 7.2CH, 80W, HDMI In/Out (6/1) - avail May (now)

This model is similar to the S720W in features but adds: improved audio quality using the higher Audyssey MultEQ XT (8 mic positions), Zone 2 pre-outs, Crestron/Control 4 interface, and also as the lowest "X" series model adds 1 more year of warranty (total 3 years).

http://usa.denon.com/us/product/home...rsht/avrX1300W

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX1300W/NA/EN/index.php

Press release on the new X1300W and X2300W ---> http://www.ecoustics.com/products/de...-av-receivers/

- X2300W - MSRP $799, 7.2CH, 95W, HDMI In/Out (8/2, main/main outputs) - avail May (now)

This model is similar to the S920W in features but adds: improved audio quality using the higher Audyssey MultEQ XT, Zone 2 pre-outs, RS-232, Crestron/Control 4 interface, ISF (Day/Night) calibration settings (to be set by an ISF calibrator) and 1 more year of warranty (total 3 years).

http://usa.denon.com/us/product/home...rsht/avrX2300W

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX2300W/NA/EN/index.php


- X3300W - MSRP $999, 7.2CH, 105W, HDMI In/Out (8/2, main/Zone 2 outputs) - avail July (now)

Upgrading from the X2300W adds: Zone 2 custom settings (bass, treble, HPF, stereo/mono), 12v trigger (1), DSD over HDMI, Zone 2 HDMI Monitor output, HDMI/digital PCM 2.0 audio to Zone 2 speaker posts/pre-outs, GUI over 4k video, 4k/60Hz upscaling, and the lowest model with 7.2 main zone pre-outs. No noticeable difference in power, but much better audio quality using the more advanced Audyssey MultEQ XT32 and Sub EQ HT (dual sub level/delay).

http://usa.denon.com/us/product/home...rsht/avrx3300w

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX3300W/NA/EN/index.php



- X4300H - MSRP ($1499), 9.2CH, 125W, HDMI In/Out (8/2, main/Zone 2 outputs) avail Sep (Now)

Upgrading from the X3300W adds: 2 additional on board amps (with capability to expand to 11 using an external 2CH amp), a second main zone HDMI monitor output, 11.2 main zone pre-outs, Zone 3, a 2nd 12v trigger, front panel display of speaker inputs (or outputs), PHONO input, 32 bit DAC, metal front panel with 2 line display, Custom 2 CH settings (using FL/FR or dedicated Front B)(LARGE/SMALL; crossover settings, sub – on/off, distance, level), on board Denon HEOS module (allows streaming of HEOS app music services to the AVR as well as streaming PCM 2.0 source from the AVR to HEOS wireless speakers set up around the home), one internal cooling fan, and Auro 3D capable (via firmware upgrade - $199USD).

https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hom...vers/avrx4300h

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX4300H/NA/EN/index.php


- X6300H - MSRP ($2199), 11.2CH, 140W, HDMI In/Out (8/2, main/Zone 2 outputs) avail Sep (Now)

Upgrading from the X4300H adds: 2 additional on board amps, more robust amps, HD Radio, mfr'd in Japan, gold plated connectors, Dialog Enhancer, two internal cooling fans, and if the Auro 3D upgrade ($199USD) is installed, ability to use the Surround Back L speaker post for powered VOG/Top Surround instead of Sub pre-out 2.

https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hom...vers/avrx6300h

http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX6300H/NA/EN/index.php



Welcome to the Official 2016 Denon AVR-S/X models thread (S510BT/S720W/S920W/X1300W/X2300W/X3300W/X4300H/X6300H).


If this is your first visit to this thread, and you want to ask a question about one of the 2016 Denon AVR models, either one that you own or one that you are thinking of buying, please provide the following information to allow for better responses to your questions:

(a) Identify the model number in question (eg. X2300W), as there are 8 different models (S and X series) discussed in this thread. Also if you have not posted in several days since your initial post, please post the model # again so we don't have to back track to learn which model you are referencing.

(b) Identify what you've done so far to troubleshoot the issue and what the front panel is displaying if an audio issue, (also take a few minutes to review the Troubleshooting section provided in post ##3 as your question may already be answered there),

(c) Unless you indicate what settings have been changed, the assumption will be that all settings are on the factory defaults (ie. usually "Auto"),

(d) If the advice given seems to simplistic or obvious, don't shoot the advice giver as we have no idea of the level of your technical understanding,

(e) If there is no response to your post, it either means no one knows the answer or it has simply been overlooked so please repost if you still haven't resolved your issue,

(f) If you post a question in this thread and are given advice and either it or some other advice (eg. Denon phone support, Denon "Ask a Question" email support) resolves your issue, have the common courtesy to post back what solution resolved your issue so others can learn from it as well,

(g) If the issue is not user error or not just a misunderstanding on how the AVR works, please call Denon support so the issue is registered,

(h) When responding to another post that is providing assistance to you, please press the "Quote" button in the lower right corner of that other poster's response so that response is also listed with your new post to provide some context, and,

(i) If you don't live in either the USA or Canada, please either indicate your country location in your profile or your post as some Denon models from other regions in the world differ in configuration from their USA/Canada counterparts otherwise responses made will be regarding the USA/Canada models.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 03-24-2017 at 10:01 AM.
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post #2 of 5339 Old 05-04-2016, 03:58 PM
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Batpig's Take: Frequently Asked Questions, Buying Advice and Important Stuff To Know

What's new in the 2016 models?

In many respects, not much. Some model year changes are major, some are just minor evolutions of the previous lineup. The 2016 models fall into the latter category -- for the most part, they are virtually identical to the 2015 lineup.

Most of the major changes happened last year -- the introduction of HDCP 2.2 / HDMI 2.0a for full support of copy-protected 4K / UHD / HDR sources, and the addition of immersive audio support (Dolby Atmos and DTS:X) for all models. With these fairly groundbreaking additions, the AVR landscape looks relatively stable for at least a couple of years.

So what has changed?

For the lower levels models (everything below the X3300W), the changes are minor:

- Upgrade to dual band WiFi
- Ability to change HDMI sources while in standby passthrough
- Increase in available lip sync delay (whoopie!)

So, not much. However the higher up you go, the more significant the changes:

- The X3300W gets Audyssey MultEQ XT32 (a fairly major upgrade from previous models with XT)
- The X4300H becomes a 9 amp / 11ch model, which lowers the price point point for entry to a full 7.1.4 setup
- The X6300H now has 11 amps built in, so if you don't need a ton of power, you can run a full 7.1.4 setup without any external amps
- The X4300H and X6300H have HEOS functionality built in, allowing them to integrate seamlessly into a HEOS multiroom audio system

Also, one pretty significant change which appears to impact the entire 2016 lineup (vs previous years) is rumours of a new Audyssey app which will allow more tweaking and customization of target curves.


So should I get one of the 2016 models or nab a 2015 model at closeout pricing?

As noted above, the big changes start with the X3300 and up. If you are shopping below the price point of the X3300, it's probably a smart move to grab a 2015 model on closeout pricing unless you REALLY care about some of the minor changes noted above.



What about the X series vs. the S series? Is it true that the X series uses higher quality components?

The "S series" vs. "X series" distinction is an evolution of the older 3-digit model numbers vs. 4-digit "CI" models of Denon's past. Essentially, the S series is the "consumer focused" lineup, what you would find at a normal big box store like Best Buy, with 3 entry to mid level models based on the smaller (13.3" depth) chassis. The X series is the higher end "custom installer focused" lineup, with two lower level models as X series versions on the 13.3" depth chassis, and then progressively larger and higher end models extending higher up in price point and features.

In general, moving from the S series to the X series equivalent (S720W = X1300W / S920W = X2300W) gets you three significant changes: (1) superior audio quality with MultEQ XT instead of basic MultEQ calibration; (2) a third year of warranty; (3) better multizone support with Zone 2 pre-outs, allowing you to maintain 7.1 in main zone rather than having to forgo two amp channels to power the other zone.

Despite what you may read, there is no difference in basic build quality, amp quality etc. between the two series.


What about these Denons vs. the extremely similar Marantz models?

It's a well known fact that, for several years now, the Marantz AVR models are essentially Marantz-o-fied clones of Denon receivers. If you compare the layout of the back panels, the manuals, the GUI design, settings and features, etc. they are essentially identical. The difference comes down to mostly market positioning, with Marantz utilizing its legacy as a more "audiophile" brand to offer some niche features that may appeal to critical music listening and/or analog fans.

In most cases -- e.g. the Denon AVR-X2200W vs. the Marantz SR5010 -- the platform is the same, with the Marantz coming in at a slightly higher price point for the same basic features ($100 extra msrp in this case). What you get for that extra outlay is (1) Marantz's proprietary HDAM analog circuitry, which is said to improve transparency and fidelity; (2) multichannel 7.1 analog input for connecting a high end SACD player or something; and (3) pre-amp outputs at a lower price point, for connecting external amplifiers.

In nearly every other respect, consider them identical.
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Last edited by batpig; 07-26-2016 at 10:24 AM.
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post #3 of 5339 Old 05-04-2016, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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2016 Denon AVR FAQ, Setup, and Troubleshooting Guide

- Note that although this information is geared towards the 2016 Denon models, in many cases (esp. Troubleshooting) it applies to older Denon and Marantz models as well.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Audyssey MultEQ

.......... a. Audyssey Mic Not Included
.......... b. Audyssey Setup
.......... c. Sub Settings


2. AVR General Info
.......... a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion
.......... b. GUI/Menu
.......... c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion
.......... d. Master Volume Adjustment
.......... e. Microprocessor Reset
.......... f. Mute Icon
.......... g. Power OFF AVR
.......... h. Power Ratings
.......... i. Power Indicator Light when AVR in Standby
.......... j. Protection Mode
.......... k. Remote Control
.......... l. Settings - Memory Retention
.......... m. Setup Lock


3. Denon Website Info
.......... a. Owner's Manual


4. Features
.......... a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling
.......... b. X4300H - Extra Speaker Posts/Pre-outs
.......... c. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp
.......... d. ARC (Audio Return Channel)
.......... e. Bluetooth Adapter
.......... f. X series Models
.......... g. HDMI Audio Out
.......... h. HDMI Standby Pass Through
.......... i. SAVE/LOAD config settings
.......... j. Stream iPhone/DLNA server music to S510BT
.......... k. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source


5. Known Issues: See "post #4 " of this thread.


6. Miscellaneous
.......... a. Bitstream vs. PCM
.......... b. HDMI Cable 1.4 vs. 2.0
.......... c. Keep the box
.......... d. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks
.......... e. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models
.......... f. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb


7. Networking
.......... a. Airplay
.......... b. Connecting to Home Network
.......... c. Firmware Updates
.......... d. Network Reset
.......... e. NET/USB
.......... f. Remote Control Smartphone Apps


8. Purchasing Info
.......... a. Best Buy/Magnolia
.......... b. On-line Dealers
.......... c. Warranty


9. Rear Panel Connections
.......... a. 12v Trigger
.......... b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit
.......... c. Switched Outlets
.......... d. Turntable/Phono


10. Speakers/Sub
.......... a. Audyssey DSX Front Height / Front Wide
.......... b. Minimum number of speakers
.......... c. Speaker Recommendations
.......... d. Speaker/Sub Volume
.......... e. Speaker Wire
.......... f. Subwoofer - Best Location
.......... g. Subwoofer - Cable option
.......... h. Surround Speaker Placement/Connections
.......... i. Tower Speakers w/built in sub


11. Troubleshooting
.......... a. Airplay Icon not showing up
.......... b. "Airplay Speaker Not Available"
.......... c. AVR randomly changes to other sources
.......... d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes
.......... e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON
.......... f. Cannot see networked Denon on my WIN XP computer/laptop
.......... g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV
.......... h. "Connection failed. Check the device"
.......... i. Green screen on TV
.......... j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo
.......... k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts)
.......... l. HTPC won't pass audio/video
.......... m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video
.......... n. No audio from single speaker
.......... o. No Video on AVR front panel display
.......... p. Projector - no video displayed
.......... q. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No Video or Intermittent Video Issue
.......... r. Speaker volume change won't stick
.......... s. Sub not working
.......... t. Surround mode changes
.......... u. Unresolved Issues
.......... v. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box
.......... w. White sparkles on TV
.......... x. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?
.......... y. Why does front panel display read "Multi Ch In" and not DD/DTS/DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA/ATMOS/DTS:X?
.......... z. Why only "STEREO" or "Dolby Surround" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?
.......... z1. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect
.......... z2. WIN 7/8/10 PC shows up as "Not Authorized"
.......... z3. WMP 11/12 audio files won't play from PC via wireless network


12. Zone 2
.......... a. 2-CH Amp
.......... b. Source Limitations
.......... c. Whole House Audio
.......... d. Wireless Headphones



1. Audyssey MultEQ

a. Audyssey Mic Not Included: If you think Denon forgot to ship the Audyssey mic with your new AVR ... check again. The mic is located inside a small white box that may be embedded inside the styrofoam packaging itself so check all around the styrofoam.

  • All 2016 models (except the S510BT): These models ship with the Audyssey ACM1HB mic which is interchangeable with the Audyssey DM-A409 (2008-2011 Denon models) and Audyssey ACM1H (Onkyo/Marantz) mics. Note to there is a 90 day warranty on the mic, so if the mic appears to be defective, contact Denon Parts dept for a warranty replacement.
If the mic is indeed missing, you cannot use just any mic from another brand (other than Onkyo or Marantz) as the DM-A409/ACM1H/ACM1HB mics have been calibrated to work with the Denon AVRs. Contact Denon for a replacement or you can usually find one on eBay for about $25 (although don't purchase one from outside the USA as they may be knockoffs).


b. Audyssey Setup: The Setup Wizard and Speakers - Audyssey Setup can be run at any time. Just because you only have the front main (FL/C/FR) speakers or even just a 2.0 stereo setup is no reason not to run Audyssey Setup. If you add more speakers, simply run it again. You'll also want to rerun it if you move the speakers or any furniture in the room. Regardless of how many actual seats are in your listening room and where they are physically located, ideally you will want to run all 6 (MultEQ) or 8 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions using the included "rocketship" cardboard mic stand or a camera tripod or (boom mic stand + mic adapter) within no more than a 2'-3' radius around the #1 mic position (ie. main listening position (MLP) or roughly ear height of the center of "your" head) in order to provide the most data points for the Audyssey filters. One of the reasons you likely bought a Denon AVR was for Audyssey, so take advantage of its capability by providing it with as much data as possible. The whole process shouldn't take more than 20 -30 minutes (depending on whether you have a 5 speaker setup or 11 speaker setup), although ensure it is completely quiet in the room (ie. no pets or kids running around, no A/C noises, no PJ noise). Also, the test tones can be quite loud (75db), so best not to do this at night (especially if living in an apartment) when others are sleeping.

The Audyssey mic cable length is 25'. If you have the AVR located in a closet or a longer distance from the main zone, you can buy a 25' extension cable like this one; however, 50' from the AVR to the mic is the maximum length that Audyssey recommends to avoid any signal degradation.

Prior to running Audyssey Setup, you'll ideally want to have your front main speakers toed in towards the main listening position, the center speaker angled up/down (as appropriate) to aim towards the main listening position (ear height) and if using on-wall/in-ceiling speakers, aimed down towards the main listening position.

It doesn't matter what settings you have set prior to running Audyssey Setup as they will be ignored and any previous Audyssey settings will be written over each time Audyssey Setup is run. Simply follow the directions listed in the SETUP WIZARD or follow along in the Denon Owner's manual. Also note that some speakers are intentionally wired "out of phase" by the mfr so if you get a PHASE error and have confirmed the speaker is wired correctly (i.e. +/+ and -/-) then simply press SKIP and move on to the next speaker. Initially just run 3 mic positions with the sub volume/gain knob set to 10 o'clock and check to see what the Denon set the sub volume to ... if it's -12db (ie. this means the sub is too loud and the Denon has reached the maximum limit of -12db in attempting to lower it to the 75db calibration volume), you'll want to lower the volume knob on the sub (eg. to 9 o'clock) and run Audyssey Setup again for 3 mic positions. As long as it's < -10db (eg. -9db, -8db, -7db, etc.) you're good to go to complete the remaining 5 (MultEQ) or 7 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions. There is no reason to get it as close to 0db as possible (unless the sub signal is not causing the sub to turn ON and in that case, get the trim closer to 0db so the AVR sends a stronger signal to the sub) as doing so simply allows more room to adjust the sub volume lower even more with the remote (which isn't what most will want to do, rather most will likely want to raise it a few db louder).

The AVR will generally set any speaker that is capable of playing a < 50hz frequency (regardless of what the mfr's spec is on paper) in your room to LARGE. Note this setting is NOT about the physical size of the speaker, rather simply whether it can play low frequencies (LARGE) or not (SMALL). However, after running Audyssey Setup, if you are using a sub, go into the Denon GUI and change ALL speakers to SMALL and raise any crossovers that were set below 80Hz up to either 60Hz or 80Hz (whichever you prefer). This not only transfers those lower frequencies to the sub (which is generally able to handle them better as it's got it's own amp) but also frees up some extra headroom for the AVR. Also note that there are 64x (MultEQ) and 8x (MultEQ XT) more Audyssey filters used for the sub then for the speakers so your setup will likely sound better by transferring more to the sub (note that XT32 employs the same number of filters for the speakers and sub). Feel free to adjust the sub or speaker volume level higher/lower using the Manual Setup - Test Tones menu to suit your preference as doing so will not affect the Audyssey filters. For better center channel dialog during TV viewing, make sure the center speaker is angled up/down (as required) towards ear height of your main listening position. If you have having low dialog issues with the cable/sat box, you can also set the Audyssey Dyn EQ Reference Level Offset setting to "10db." .


Note that in order to use Audyssey, as well as the Audyssey related features Dynamic EQ (increases bass and surround audio at lower volumes below 0db) or Dynamic Volume (tames loud commercials/explosions for late night viewing), you must run Audyssey Setup. Generally most folks will want to use Dynamic EQ for all sources, all the time (as most everyone listens at below 0db), and use Dynamic VOL (MEDIUM) for TV and late night movie viewing only (when it's important to keep the loud explosions down due to sleeping kids, etc.), leaving it OFF for regular movie viewing when there's no need to be quiet.


c. Sub Settings: Prior to running Audyssey Setup, the sub knobs should be set as shown below. Refer to your AVR Owner's manual section on "Setup Speakers (Audyssey Setup) - Setup subwoofer." For information on setting up dual subs, refer to the Audyssey Setup Guide para III.

  • Volume : “10 o'clock position” (manual recommends starting at 12 o'clock but the vast majority will end up lowering to closer to 10 o'clock)
  • Crossover frequency : “Maximum/Highest Frequency” (eg. if 80hz-150hz, then set to 150hz) •
  • Low pass filter : “Off” or maximum/highest frequency (eg. if 80hz-150hz, then set to 150hz) Note: This is not the same as the "LPF for LFE" setting on the AVR which should be left at it's factory default setting of 120hz
  • Standby mode : “Off” (ie. sub should be powered ON and not in AUTO) •
  • Phase : 0
Once Audyssey Setup settings are saved and you are satisfied with the settings (ie. sub is not set to -12db), DO NOT make any further volume adjustments on the sub itself (other than possibly changing the power from "ON" to "AUTO"), rather adjust the sub volume using the remote control, the GUI menu. Although the speaker "distances" will likely be spot on, the sub "distance" will likely be longer as it is actually a value that allows for a delay due to filters in the sub so do NOT manually change the sub distance to its actual distance.[*]


  • Although there is a note in the manual that specifies "After performing Audyssey Setup, do not change the speaker settings or subwoofer volume. In event of a change perform Audyssey Setup again.", this really should say "if adding additional speakers or changing the location/orientation of the speakers/sub" as neither changing the speaker settings or subwoofer volume will require you to rerun Audyssey again.
For more questions about Audyssey, refer to the Audyssey 101/FAQ Guide or go to Ask Audyssey.



2. AVR General Info

a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion: This feature is no longer available on the lower level models below the X3300W to include the "S" series models. Another alternate option is to use a component --> HDMI converter or if you have a Wii you can use the Wii2HDMI.

b. GUI/Menu display All models can ONLY display the GUI/status menu over an HDMI connection to your TV. Although much of the information can be read on the front panel display, some setup information is NOT displayed so you are much better served reviewing the GUI setup on the TV. To display the GUI, simply press the appropriate menu button on the remote (ie. INFO, OPTION, or SETUP). If you only use a projector with no HDTV, you may want to consider purchasing a small 12" HDMI display for setup use only.

c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion: If you have an older non-HDMI TV, note that there is no HDMI--> Component video conversion by any current AVR on the market. Either you must use the 2016 (S920W, X2300W and higher), which have (2) component video inputs AND (1) output, or you can use an external 3rd party device that can do the conversion.

d. Master Volume Adjustment: Unlike perhaps your older receiver that was really loud at say 1/4 of the maximum master volume scale, Denon AVRs use a logarithmic volume scale and will require the volume turned to roughly 2/3 of the maximum for average volume levels. Denon AVRs have two volume scales, the default being "absolute" (0-98) and "relative" ( -79.5db to +18db). If you have run Audyssey Setup, then average volume for most folks with 8O speakers and at least 87db+ efficiency, will be around -40db to -30db (41-51 absolute) for TV listening and -30db to -10db (51-71 absolute) for movie/music listening. Each model has a "Volume Limit" setting that defaults to OFF although can be set to 60(-20db), 70 (-10db), or 80 (0db). Setting this to 70 (-10db) is a good idea to ensure that others in the house cannot raise the master volume too loud which might cause the AVR to shut down in protection mode or clip the speakers. Also, to ensure the AVR doesn't shut down in protection mode, it's a good idea to not raise the volume above 80(0db) (little additional volume gained at the price of an extreme increase in power required). Also note that when adjusting the volume using the remote, it's better to tap the volume up/down buttons as pressing and holding it down for several seconds results in a HUGE change in volume. This is common to ALL stock Denon remotes.

e. Microprocessor Reset: See post 5 of this thread.

f. MUTE Icon: There is currently no way to remove the MUTE icon from the TV display when in the MUTE mode. To prevent the relays from clicking when pressing MUTE, change the “Mute Level” setting from “FULL” to “-40db.

g. Power OFF AVR: The only way to turn the AVR completely OFF is to unplug it, otherwise it is either ON or in Standby. Each model will use anywhere from roughly 65W-85W when ON (no audio playing) to 80W-100W at reference volume (0db) using 8ohm speakers of at least average sensitivity (ie 87db+). In Standby they will use 0.1W with HDMI Control OFF, 0.5W with HDMI Control ON, and about 2.7W with IP Control set to ON.

h. Power Ratings: For marketing purposes, Denon generally uses 6 ohm ratings (ie. gives a higher wattage rating) on the lower level AVRs which is why you will find them advertised (eg. Best Buy) at higher power ratings than listed in their Owner manuals or in these info posts both of which use the 8 ohm rating. Remember to read the fine print when checking the power ratings of an AVR. Also note that the difference in power ratings between these models is moot as going from the 75W (S720W) to the 125W (X4300H) will result in less than a 3db increase in volume .... 3db being the lowest amount of volume that can generally be detected by most people. For this reason, if you truly want additional volume capability, you are better served adding an external amp of at least 200W+ (although this can only be done with the 2016 (X3300W/X4300H/X6300H) models as they are the only models with main zone pre-outs to connect to an external amp) or simply buying speakers that are at least 3db more efficient (eg. from 86db to 89db efficiency/sensitivity rating).

i. Power Indicator Light when AVR in Standby: When either "HDMI Control" or "HDMI Pass Through" are set to ON or "Network Control” is set to ALWAYS ON, the power indicator light above the power button on the AVR's front panel will change to solid "red" when placed in Standby mode.

j. Protection Mode: If the AVR shuts off in protection mode and the power indicator light flashes red, it generally means the following based on the frequency of flashes:

- Every 1/2 sec = speaker wire from one post touching another post (most common); driving 4O speakers too loud (ie. >-10db); or amp failure
- Every 2 sec = temperature of the AVR is too hot (provide more ventilation)


The most common cause for shutting down, is a loose speaker wire strand touching another post. A great way to shore up loose speaker wire strands is to use banana plugs on those models that accept banana plugs (ie. "X" series). Visually check the speaker connections at both the AVR and the speakers themselves to guarantee that speaker wire from one post isn't touching another post. Pull the AVR out of the rack or cabinet if you have to in order to ensure this is the case. If you have in wall speaker wire, it's very possible a nail may have split the speaker wire casing causing it to short. If you have confirmed there are no speaker wire issues and are not running 4 ohm speakers excessively loud, then disconnect all sources and add one at a time to see if the issue is being caused by a particular source. If not, then disconnect all the speakers and add one speaker back at a time to see if the issue is caused by a particular speaker. If not and you are using a power strip, try connecting directly to the outlet as you may have a bad power strip. If still no joy, then try resetting the microprocessor as a last resort. If still no joy, you're likely looking at having to send the unit in for repair as it could be amp failure.

k. Remote Control: The Denon 2016 stock remotes (except X4300/X6200W) cannot operate other 3rd party devices. If you want to boost your Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF), your best bet is to purchase a Harmony (or other universal/programmable) remote which can be used for not only most every function on the Denon stock remote but also to control your other devices as well. Simply download the remote codes for your particular Denon AVR model (and other devices) from the Logitech data base. Numerous Harmony models from $50 on up are available.

l. Settings - Memory Retention: All settings in the AVR to include the Audyssey settings should be retained for at least 1-2 weeks if the power cable is disconnected from the AVR. In a few instances, it has been reported by a few forum members that if the power is interrupted (eg. power outage) while the AVR is powered ON, the settings "may" return to their factory default settings.

m. Setup Lock: When you have small kids in the house, it may be a good idea to consider setting the "Setup Lock" feature to ON. This setting defaults to OFF from the factory. Also, with cats around, check for loose cable connections at the rear panel if you suddenly start having connection issues.


3. Denon Website Info

a. Owner's Manual: Denon no longer provides a hard copy Owner's manual, but rather a CD with a .pdf file of the Owner's manual. This same .pdf file can be downloaded from Denon's website here.


4. Features

a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling:
  • 2016 models (S510BT, S720W, X1300W): These models can only pass through up to 4K/60fps video.
  • 2016 models (S920W, X2300W): These models can pass through up to 4K/60fps video and upscale up to 4K/30fps video.
  • 2016 models (X3300W, X4300H/X6300H): These models can pass through and upscale up to 4K/60fps video.

b. X4300H extra speaker posts: Although the X4300H features 11 sets of speaker posts, it can only provide 9CH of on board audio at a time ... the extra speaker posts are merely provided for convenience so as not to have to rewire for other configurations. This model can expand from 9CH to 11CH audio in the main zone by using an external 2CH amp connected to either the FL/FR or HT2 L/R speaker pre-outs.


c. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp: Using this mode (known as "passive bi-amping") generally produces no noticeable improvement in either audio quality nor extra power as you're simply sending the same full range signal to each set of posts on the bi-ampable speaker (which they would still get with a single connection) from the same single power supply in the AVR. If you want extra power for the speakers (which in most cases is not necessary for 8ohm speakers with an 86db+ efficiency in small/med sized rooms), the only USA models that will allow for an external amp connection are the X3300W/X4300H/X6300H all of which have at least 7.2 main zone pre-outs.

d. ARC (Audio Return Channel): This is the feature that will pass audio from the TV (eg. OTA, Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, etc.) back to the AVR over the same HDMI cable that connects the AVR from the Monitor Out jack to the TV. In order for the ARC feature to work, it must be offered on both the TV and the AVR. Just because the TV and AVR are HDMI 1.4 or higher DOES NOT mean they offer the ARC feature. Note the S510BT does NOT offer ARC and therefore ARC will not work when connected to a TV with ARC. In order to use the TV's ARC feature you must set the TV's "HDMI-CEC" setting (LG - SimpLink; Phillips - EasyLink; Panasonic - VieraLink; Sony - BraviaSync; Samsung - Anynet+; Toshiba - CE-Link,RegzaLink) to ON as well as setting the AVR's "HDMI Control" setting to ON as the factory default is OFF. Some TV's also require the audio to be set to external speakers (eg. Samsung - set to Home Theater). Also make sure the HDMI cable from the AVR is plugged into the ARC labeled jack on the TV (eg. HDMI1 - Panasonic, HDMI2 - Samsung, Panasonic). Once these settings are made, turn all devices OFF for a few minutes and then ON again ... TV first and then the AVR (although if that order doesn't work, try AVR first and then TV). Note that a side effect when using the TV's HDMI-CEC/ARC set to ON is that the AVR will always shift to the "TV Audio" source input when first turned ON rather than going to the last input that was on prior to the AVR being put into Standby (as is the case when ARC is OFF). First introduced on the 2014 models, there is a new "TV Audio Switching" setting which defaults to ON, but can be set to OFF in order to prevent the AVR from automatically switching to the "TV Audio" source. Also on the 2016 models is an "ARC" setting which defaults to OFF but should be set to ON when in use. If you are unable to get the ARC to work, try replacing the HDMI cable from the AVR --> TV with a newer cable as doing so will often resolve the issue.

Note also that with some TVs (eg.. Samsung) the AVR will also revert to the TV input while in Standby which will prevent you from using the HDMI pass through feature (eg. cable/sat box) without turning the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to OFF. If this is too annoying, either turn off the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on the TV when not using it or forgo the ARC feature (set HDMI-CEC/ARC to OFF) and use an optical cable from the TV to the AVR. The optical cable will pass the same audio (PCM 2.0 or DD 5.1) that the HDMI cable would have passed with no loss in audio quality. If you have the cable/sat box connected directly to the TV (eg. due to an HDMI handshake issue), check your TV owner's manual to see if the TV will pass DD 5.1 from connected sources when using the ARC connection (as some down mix to stereo only). If not, then connect an optical cable from the sat/cable box to the AVR instead if it passes DD 5.1 over the optical audio out.

e. Bluetooth Adapter:: All 2016 models include built-in Bluetooth capability so a 3rd party adapter is not required. Note this capability is for streaming Bluetooth audio "to" the AVR. To stream "from" the AVR will require purchasing a 3rd party Bluetooth adapter.

f. X series Models: The "X" series models include such features as remote control jacks (used with IR extenders/repeaters), RS-232 jack for remote access (eg. home automation systems like Crestron), and maintenance mode (pro installer or service tech only). The "X" series models also offer a 3 year warranty (vice 2 years for the S series models).

g. HDMI Audio Out: This feature only works with devices connected to the AVR with an HDMI cable. It's an "either/or" setting in that the audio can be set to pass to the "AVR" or the "TV", but not both at the same time.

h. HDMI Standby Pass Through: This feature allows you to pass HDMI connected sources only through the AVR (when in Standby) to the TV. On the 2015 models, HDMI Control does not need to be set to ON as there is an "HDMI Pass Through" setting which defaults to ON with the "Pass Through Source" defaulting to CBL/SAT so connect an HDMI source to the CBL/SAT input should pas through without making any further changes. If you decide to change the Standby source to either LAST (source used) or another HDMI source, once making these change, turn the AVR and TV off for a few minutes, then power both back on, the TV first, then the AVR. If this feature is not working for you, try setting the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on your TV to OFF.

i. SAVE/LOAD config settings: The 2016 (S920W, X1300W, X2300W, X3300W) come with the feature to SAVE/LOAD the config/settings file (includes Audyssey settings) to a PC using the on board Web Control feature via the AVR's OSD. Note: Although this feature is not offered on the S720W; both the Web Control and the SAVE/LOAD features can still be accessed using the procedure noted below. If you are having difficulty SAVE(ing) a file, make sure to stop any network playback by first playing something on the network and then either pressing the Stop Playback (black square) or the ENTER button on the remote for a few seconds. You may also need to set "Network Standby" to OFF (contrary to what the Owner's manual indicates). The config.dat file should be about 348kb for all models except the X4300H/X6300H (952kb); however, it's a good idea to confirm the AVR is actually saving data in the file as the file size will be 348kb or 952kdb whether it's all zeroes or filled with zeroes and some data. If it is all zeroes, it will not LOAD successfully. Use a Windows hex viewer (eg. http://download.cnet.com/HxD-Hex-Edi...-10891068.html) or Mac hex viewer (eg. http://hexedit.en.softonic.com/mac) to view the file and confirm whether it is all zeroes or not. If you do get a file with all zeroes or if a file with data won't load properly, then set Network Standby to OFF/Off in Standby, cycle the AVR OFF/ON and then try a SAVE again which should result in a config.dat file with non-zero data. It's also a good idea to SAVE the settings prior to a firmware update even though firmware updates generally don't change the system settings. If you are having difficulty using IE, try using Firefox or Chrome (see Post #2775 of the 2013 Denon AVR thread). If still no joy when trying to LOAD the config.dat file, try setting IP Control to "Off in Standby", cycle the AVR to OFF, then ON again and try the LOAD. If yet still no joy, try resetting the microprocessor and then do the LOAD again.

How to gain access to the Web Control and SAVE/LOAD features using the S720W

Enter the AVR's IP address (eg. 192.168.XXX.XX) in the web browser of a laptop. If the Web Control menu does not display, enter the following additional information after the IP address. Using the previous example IP address ....

Web Control: 192.168.XXX.XX/MainZone/index.html

Note: Although the Web Control feature is no longer provided on the X4300H and X6300H, a firmware update later in 2016 will provide the capability to SAVE the config file to a USB thumb drive and then LOAD it back from the thumb drive.


j. Stream iPhone/DLNA music to non-network models (ie. S510BT): If you have a PS3, xbox360, or laptop that is connected to your home network as well as hard wired to your AVR, you can use the AirMusic iPhone app to stream audio to these devices and play it through your surround setup. There are also several other devices that can be used to include Apple TV, Airport Express, as well as converting the audio to a FM frequency and playing it via the built in TUNER. Read this article for more details.

k. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source:You have a couple of different options here. One option is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV w/optical from the cable/sat box to the AVR. That way you can use the HDMI to the TV for video and then select whatever audio source you want on the AVR. Another option is with any video source (to include HDMI) can be selected while listening to USB, Tuner, or network sources using the "OPTION - Video Select" setting. On the models with a CD analog audio input (ie. S920W, X2300W, X3300W, X4300H, X6300H) you can connect an external source to the CD analog or optical input (as long as there is no video assigned to CD) and listen to it while watching a separate HDMI video source. The X4300H and X6300H also add the Phono input which can be used with "Video Select" as well.


6. Miscellaneous

a. Bitstream vs. PCM: When playing audio from a BD/DVD, you can set the Blu Ray player (BDP) to either "bitstream" or "PCM/Direct". By setting it to "PCM/Direct" the BDP will decode (or unzip) the file which will then pass the audio in its original uncompressed format (ie. multi-channel PCM) to the AVR which will then display "MULT CH IN" on the front panel, or you can "bitstream" the audio and just let the BDP pass the compressed file directly to the AVR to let the AVR decode (or unzip) it in which case you will see the compressed file codec used (eg. DD, DTS, Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD MA, etc.) on the front panel display. Either way the audio quality will be the same, although the bitstreamed audio will likely sound a bit louder, and most prefer to see the compressed file codec on their AVR's front panel display rather than just "MULT CH IN". When bitstreaming the audio, ensure the "Secondary audio" or "Audio Mix" setting (if there is one) on the BDP is set to OFF. Also note that HD audio tracks can be either 5.1 or 7.1; regardless, it will be downmixed to however many speakers are in your setup.


Note: When playing an Atmos BD, you must have the BDP set to "bitstream."

b. HDMI Cable 1.3 vs. 1.4: There is no difference between a "High Speed" HDMI 1.3 cable and a "High Speed" HDMI 1.4 cable. Cables are either “High Speed” (1080p) or “Standard speed” (720p/1080i). If it is an HDMI 1.3 cable and can pass 1080p video, you don't need to buy new cables because you upgraded to a new HDMI 2.0 AVR. For cable and switch needs consider forum sponsors Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable where good quality "High Speed" 6' HDMI cables can be had for about $5 each. There's no reason to get ripped off buying overpriced Monster cables at Best Buy. There's also no reason to pay more for an HDMI cable w/Ethernet as none of the current models can take advantage of the Ethernet feature in this cable.

c. Keep the box: The original Denon box the AVR comes in should be kept for the life of the AVR as it will be needed if the AVR has to be returned to the vendor you purchased it from or if it needs to be shipped to a repair facility for firmware updates or repair.

d. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks:: If you have an older generation AVR that lacks HDMI jacks and the only reason you want to upgrade to an HDMI AVR is to get the new HD codecs (DD TrueHD and DTS HD MA), then unless you want to spend more money, keep your old AVR as the lossy DD/DTS tracks on BD's are created at a higher bitrate (~640kbps vs. 430kbps) on a regular DVD. Many will be unable to discern any audio difference between these tracks and the HD audio tracks via HDMI.

e. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models: Although the USA/CA and Europe/Asia Pacific models are very similar, there are some noted differences to include: (1) The USA/CA X1300 features Zone 2 pre-outs whereas the Europe/Asia Pacific X1300 does not, and (2) None of the "S" series are offered in Europe/Asia Pacific, rather they are replaced by the X520BT instead, (3) The USA/CA X1300W and X2300W feature (1) Coax-digital and (1) RS-232 jack not found on the Europe/Asia Pacific models. Also note there is a 2 digit code on the OEM shipping box with the model number that identifies the region of the AVR (eg. X2300W E3): EU or E3 = USA, EC = Canada, E1 = Asia, E2 = Europe, and EA = Australia.

f. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb: When purchasing an other than new in box unit (ie. demo/used/refurb), you'll want to reset the microprocessor (see post 5 of this thread) before starting the setup process which will ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults.


7. Networking

a. Airplay: The Airplay feature (audio only) is offered on the S720W and higher networking models. It allows you to stream your iTunes songs wirelessly from your laptop, iPhone 3GS or newer (will not work with iPhone 3G), or iPad to one of the above models when both are connected to your home network. This feature can also be replicated on non-networking model by using an Apple TV (audio and video) or Airport Express (audio) connected to the AVR. Also note that Apple currently has only licensed AVR mfr's to use Airplay in "audio only" mode (ie. no video). If you want to pass video, you'll to need to add the Apple TV (ATV).

A "wired" connection from the AVR to the router/modem is preferred to reduce connection issues and reduce audio dropouts due to buffering (eg. AVR front panel display reads “Buffering 60%). If you don't want a networking model, adding an Apple TV will give you Airplay, although there are noted issues with the ATV having audio dropouts regardless of the brand of AVR connection. Some have noted that turning off bluetooth and closing background applications on your iphone, ipad, etc. will reduce/eliminate the Airplay audio dropouts. Also, if having connectivity issues, try unplugging the AVR for a few minutes and then power on again.

Notes: (1) When using Airplay, the source controls the initial volume so make sure it is turned down on your laptop, iPhone, iPad, etc. before starting to stream the audio through your surround speakers. (2) If you want to turn the AVR ON to use Airplay, make sure NETWORK CONTROL is set to ALWAYS ON (default setting), and download one of the REMOTE apps listed in para 7(f) below. (3) In order to use Airplay with an Android phone, you can use the doubleTwist app (free) along with the doubleTwist add on MagicPlay app ($2.99). (4) When selecting Airplay to play to Zone 2, the main zone will initially be hijacked and play the same Airplay source selected for Zone 2, although once playing in Zone 2, you can reselect the source that was playing in the main zone. Note that although with the older 2012 (XX13) models you cannot turn the main zone off while Airplay is playing to Zone 2; this is no longer the case with the 2013 and newer models.

b. Connecting to a home network: All of the 2015 models (except the S510BT) feature a "wireless" capability. Note that when doing a firmware update, a "wired" connection is recommended as it is generally more reliable.

A couple of alternative connections are: (1) Powerline adapters that plug into nearby outlets that can then connect to your wireless router/modem which effectively turns your house wiring into a "wired" network, or (2) Ethernet over coax MoCA adapters which use your existing coax cable used for your TV.

If you don't plan on using the network capability for other than firmware updates, 100' Cat 5/6 ethernet cables are fairly inexpensive and available from forum sponsor Monoprice. You can also purchase 1000' Cat 5/6 bulk cable if longer length is required; however, note the maximum length without signal amplification is 100m or roughly 300'.

If you are experiencing intermittent audio dropouts while using the network streaming feature, consider connecting the AVR directly to the router rather than a wireless connection or consider upgrading to a newer, better quality router that is able to handle more bandwidth. Additionally, if you have a NETGEAR router which is causing problems, try disabling the UPnP mode. Also make sure that the router's SSID is not "hidden", nor should it have a blank (" ") in its’ name. If you are using a XFinity cable/modem, try setting it to "bridge" mode.

c. Firmware Updates: See post #6 of this thread.

d. Network Reset: See post #5 of this thread.

e. NET/USB: When finished using the NET/USB input source, it's important to back all the way out of the menus otherwise the connection will remain open.

f. Remote Control Smartphone apps: The 2016 Denon REMOTE app is a FREE app that can be downloaded from the iTunes website here and used by an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad to control the networking models from anywhere in the house (where wireless internet is available). For the more experienced iPhone/iPad remote users, you may want to try the iPhone GUI Design application, Demopad . The Denon REMOTE app for Android phones is also FREE and can be downloaded here. Android phone users can also download AVR-Remote free as well which works on both Denon and Marantz AVRs.

A couple of other similar apps (fee required), DenONOFF and DeRemote can also be used on prior year models going back to XX08. Or if having audio/drop out issues using Airplay, consider using the 2Player android app. Make sure the Network Standby setting is set to ON in order to turn the AVR ON from Standby. If the remote app should suddenly stop working, try powering off the AVR and unplug it for a few minutes.


8. Purchasing Info

a. Best Buy/Magnolia: Best Buy is Denon's largest customer so you can generally find the full line of Denon AVRs at their stores, although specific models will be limited depending on whether there is a Magnolia/Design Center in the store or not. Best Buy stores with no Magnolia/Design Center will generally only sell the lower level models (ie. "S" series) while those with a Magnolia/Design Center will sell the "X" series models. Do you have Best Buy gift cards but would prefer to buy at one of the on line authorized resellers that offer a discount? There are several web sites that will buy your gift cards at roughly 90% of face value including CardCash. Although you will generally always pay full MSRP when purchasing the current year models at a Best Buy/Magnolia with a 10% discount for open box/demo units, the benefit of purchasing here is there is no restocking fee if returned within 15 days (longer if Rewards Member), regardless of whether it's defective or not, whereas the on-line authorized resellers that provide a discount will normally charge a 15-20% restocking fee plus require you to pay return shipping. Also note that Best Buy has some great deals when clearing out previous year's models so be sure to visit the store before considering a current year's model.

b. On-line Dealers: AVScience (877-823-4452) is an authorized Denon dealer, but is listed on Denon's store front authorized dealer webpage (as opposed to the on line dealer webpage).

c. Warranty: In order for the Denon warranty to be valid, the AVR must be purchased from an authorized dealer, either on-line or B&M store. Although Amazon is an authorized reseller, that is only if they are the "seller" so check where it says "Ships from and sold by XXXX" to ensure the XXXX company is either Amazon or another Denon authorized reseller. Unless they are listed on Denon's website as an authorized reseller, the warranty may not be valid (ie. some vendors are not listed on the website but purchase from authorized resellers and therefore the warranty is still valid so call Denon if in doubt). If purchasing from an unauthorized reseller, you may want to purchase a 3rd party "Date of Purchase" warranty which is often times offered by the unauthorized vendors. In some cases the reseller will offer their own in house warranty.

Warranty period (when purchased from an authorized reseller)

  • New or demo or "open box": "S" Series - 2 years ; "X" series - 3 years
  • Refurbished (any model) – 1 year (note that Amazon Warehouse deals of "used" models is not considered an authorized dealer, so Denon will not honor the warranty)
Notes:


(a) Denon has been known to extend the warranty period up to 45 days beyond normal expiration, so check with Denon first.

(b) If your unit requires service and the service center cannot repair/return it within 30 days, the repair facility "should" offer a refurbished unit if available. If you accept the refurbished unit, rather than wait, your warranty on the refurbished unit would be the time remaining from the original new unit purchase.

(c) Buying refurbished units can be a good way to save some money, although receiving a defective "refurbished" unit is not uncommon. There's also no guarantee that the refurbished unit will have any updated firmware installed.

(d) "Open box" deals from an authorized dealer will generally come with a full mfr's warranty (although note that Amazon Warehouse deals are not warrantied by Denon at all). In general these can be great deals as often times the previous buyer simply didn't understand how to set up the AVR (and obviously didn't know about AVS forum) and so there's often nothing wrong with the AVR. Check to make sure you have all the included accessories, although if the mic is missing, you can generally buy one off of eBay (ACM1HB - US distributors only) or from Denon directly for about $25.

(e) Some credit card issuers will add an additional year to the mfr's warranty (new or refurbished), so before you give up on your old AVR, or consider adding to the Denon warranty with a 3rd party warranty (eg. SquareTrade), if you purchased with a credit card, check to see if they offer a free Extended Warranty benefit.


9. Rear Panel Connections

a. 12v Trigger: When connecting a trigger jack to an external device that also has a trigger jack, first ensure both devices are powered OFF. Then use a 1/8" to 1/8" Mono cable like this one to connect the AVR to the device you want to trigger (eg. external amp, projection screen, lights, etc.). Although triggers are more sophisticated than switched outlets, the simple ON/OFF feature of a trigger can be replicated using a smart power strip (although note this particular model doesn't work with all AVRs) rather than getting the X3200W (1 trigger) or X4200W/X6200W (2 triggers). If you are using an external amp that goes to Standby when powered back on (eg. Emotiva), consider using this trigger switch from Emotiva along with the smart power strip.

b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit: An IR extender/repeater kit can be used to extend the IR signal of the Denon remote when the AVR is located in a closet or other room. There are numerous 3rd party kits on the market which will include a powered "blaster" and a receiver, although not all may work with your model so before buying, ask the reseller if it's been tested with your model. The powered "blaster" will have either a single or multiple wired emitters connected to it (generally with no more than 6' wire) that are placed over the IR sensor on the front panel of each device you want to control and as such, can be used with ANY Denon AVR model. The receiver is then placed in the room in which you will be using the remote control. Some kits cannot be used in close proximity to a LCD or plasma TV and others have limited range so be sure to read the fine print before buying one of these kits. On Denon AVRs the IR sensor is located about 1/3 from the left side of the front panel display (see picture in your Owner's manual). The "X" series models include a Remote Control IR IN jack which can provide a cleaner connection in the rear panel of the AVR rather than having to place an emitter over the IR sensor on the front panel display. If you have a X model and would prefer to use the Remote Control IN jack, there are kits that use a 3.5mm plug instead of an emitter or AFAIK, you can simply replace the emitter with a 3.5mm mono-to-mono cable. Google "IR extender kit" or "IR repeater kit" and ensure you read the fine print to get a model that is appropriate for your particular requirements. Also make sure it is returnable if it doesn't work correctly.

c. Switched Outlets: Denon AVRs no longer include switched outlets; however, they can be easily replicated by using a smart power strip like this one or this one. Also, as a reminder, when using an AVR with switched outlets, never plug the subwoofer into them as they are not designed for a high amperage device like a subwoofer.

d. Turntable/Phono: Although the X4300H and X6300H are the only 2016 models with a Phono input, you can connect a turntable to any model using a phono pre-amp similar to this one (if one is not built in to the turntable). Simply connect the pre-amp to any of the analog inputs on the AVR.


10. Speakers/Sub

a. Audyssey DSX Front Height/Front Wide: Front Wide speakers are no longer supported so Audyssey DSX has been removed.

b. Minimum number of speakers: All models can run with a minimum of 2 speakers up to 5 (or 11) depending on the model. Audyssey will work just as well with 2 speakers as it will with up to and including 11 speakers.

c. Speaker Recommendation: When considering speakers, the general rule of thumb for a good 5.1 setup is to budget at least 2x the cost of the AVR (ie. $500 AVR -> $1000+ 5.1 speaker setup), the bottom line is you're much better served with a lower quality AVR and better quality speakers, then a higher level AVR and lower quality speakers. If you're considering one of the lower level models (or your budget is < $500 for speakers), a good setup is either the Energy Take 5.1 Classic , Klipsch HDT 300 5.1, Jamo 5.1, or the Fluance 5.0 (so you'll need to add a sub). If you don't mind spending some time in the used market (eg. Craigslist), you can sometimes find a $1000-$1500 5.1 original MSRP setup for $500 or less. Although Denon AVRs are designed to work with 6-8ohm speakers, you can generally safely use 4ohm speakers if the volume is limited to average listening volume only (ie. max volume roughly -20db). However, it's generally better to stick with 8ohm speakers unless using the X3300W/X4300H/X6300H in which case you can add an external amp if necessary. Review this post for more information on the impact of speaker efficiency. Bottom line is that going from speakers rated at 86db efficiency to 89db efficiency is like going from a 75W AVR to a 150W AVR so look for more efficient speakers rather than a higher powered AVR. Ideally you would want to demo different speakers at a Best Buy/Magnolia or other Hi Fi shop, keeping in mind these stores generally do not run the AVRs EQ program (eg. Audyssey) so if you like their sound in the store, they'll likely sound even better when in your home after running Audyssey Setup. If you are just starting to build your speaker setup, it's better to have better quality front three speakers L/C/R and sub and hold off on the surround speakers until you can afford them. If TV and movies will make up the majority of your audio listening, you'll ideally want the center speaker to be of the same (or better) quality than your front L/R speakers as 80%+ of the dialogue will come from the center speaker.

If you have a 5.1 surround setup from a HTIB that you want to use with your new AVR ... DON’T, at least not without checking what impedance the speakers are rated. More often than not, HTIB speakers are generally only 2-4ohm speakers designed to work only with the receiver that came with the HTIB and in some cases have special wire connectors. If they are 6ohm or 8ohm speakers (as is the case with Denon Boston Acoustics setups), you're good to go, otherwise, sell the HTIB speaker setup on Craigslist or eBay and buy a stand-alone 8ohm speaker setup. Also, ideally stay away from Bose speaker systems as they generally don't work well with Audyssey due to having to be connected to the Bose Acoustimass module first so the AVR never sees the sub.

d. Speaker/Sub Volume: Press the SETUP button on the remote and change the speaker levels in the Manual Setup menu. These adjustments can be made without impacting the Audyssey filters. However, before making adjustments to the sub (esp. increasing the volume), try leaving it at the current setting (after running Audyssey Setup) for at least 2-3 weeks to adjust to the "reference" setting the mixer intended rather than the boomy bass many are used to hearing from older model receivers. If after that time, you still feel you want the sub volume louder, then bump it up a few db using the AVR menu to suit your "preference."

e. Speaker Wire: For speaker wire runs up to 80', a 16AWG wire will be sufficient. Longer runs should use 14AWG wire. A good place to buy speaker wire is from forum sponsor Monoprice.

f. Subwoofer - Best location: To learn more about the best place in your room to place your subwoofer, follow the
.

g. Subwoofer - Cable option: If you don't have a digital coax cable handy to connect the sub preout on the AVR to the sub, you can use the "yellow" composite video cable as a suitable substitute.

h. Surround Speaker Placement/Wire Connections: With a 5.0 or 5.1 setup, the surround speakers are considered "side" surrounds and should be connected to the speaker posts labeled "Surround" and ideally be placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and within 90-110 degrees from the main listening position (ie. to the "sides" of the main listening position and NOT the rear). When you add a 2nd set of surrounds in a 7.0 or 7.1 setup, or "rear" surrounds, they should be connected to the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" speaker posts and also ideally placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and about 3' directly behind the main listening position. See the Dolby Digital website here for more information. Note: If you only have a 5.0/5.1 setup and the surround speakers are already wired in the rear, then you must still connect those speakers to the "side" SURROUND speaker posts as this is the proper setup for a 5.0/5.1 setup.

i. Tower Speakers w/built in sub: When using this type of speaker (eg. Def Tech) and no external sub, connect the LFE cable from the AVR sub preout to a "Y" splitter and then to each speaker's sub. After running Audyssey Setup, you will still want to set the front mains to SMALL (regardless of what the mfr's speaker manual recommends) as there are 8x (MultEQ XT) and 64x (MultEQ) more Audyssey sub filters than speaker filters. This configuration will also then allow you to adjust the sub channel volume to suit your preference. Note with XT32, there are an equivalent number of speaker and sub control points, so without a dedicated sub in the setup, you can go either way with either a LARGE or SMALL setting.


11. Troubleshooting

a. Airplay icon not showing up If the Airplay icon is no longer displayed, try one or more of the following steps to resolve the issue:

  • Set the AVR to Standby and unplug it for 10 minutes. Then plug back in and turn on again. You may need to do this several times.
  • If using an iPhone or HTPC, try cycling it OFF/ON/OFF/ON while it's connected to the network.
  • Close/Open iTunes a few times.
  • Power cycle the router, wireless bridge, or Powerline adapters OFF/ON/OFF/ON.
  • If your router has a "multicast" option, try setting it to YES.
  • Cycle DHCP OFF/ON/OFF/ON.
  • Assign the AVR with a static IP address of its own. Turn off DHCP and select an IP address out of the normal range (1-100, eg. 192.168.1.101 ) and then leave the subnet address that's there. Give it a few minutes after you type it in and you should see the icon pop up on your device.
  • If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router, go to the Advanced tab (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable "IGMP Proxy" which should resolve the issue. On newer Actiontec routers, if you don't see the IGMP setting, but do see a "Routing" setting, then select Routing/Routing Protocols/IGMP and disable "IGMP Proxy" there. Another setting which has been shown to work is to enable the setting just above the setting on the main Advanced menu. The issue here generally only presents when the AVR is wired directly to the Actiontec router and the iDevice is connected wirelessly. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.
  • Regardless of the type router being used, if there is a "Disable IGMP Proxy" setting that is checked, try unchecking it and see if that resolves the issue. Otherwise, try toggling the "IGMP Proxy" setting ON/OFF/ON.

b. “Airplay Speaker Not Available”: This issue may be a result of not turning OFF the NET/USB source on the AVR (as opposed to just changing inputs). When you are finished with the Airplay audio, press/hold the remote ENTER button. Another solution is to uncheck the Airplay symbol on the iPhone/iPad (putting it on the iphone/iPad speaker and thus breaking the handshake).

c. AVR randomly changes to other sources: This may indicate a defective HDMI board. Reset the microprocessor as listed in your Owner's manual and if still no joy, then give Denon a call to have it repaired.

d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes: A good rule of thumb is to not raise the master volume above 0db (relative) or 82 (absolute) as it may result in clipping/distortion from the speakers. You can set the "Volume Limit" setting to 0db to ensure this doesn't happen. If the AVR is shutting down at volumes lower than 0db (eg. -10db) then it is most likely the result of a loose speaker wire from one post on the back of the AVR touching another post so verify all speaker connections are clean. Pull the AVR out of the cabinet or rack if you have to in order to visually check the rear panel as more than one owner has learned a cursory look with a flash light may not be good enough to see the single wire strand that is causing the problem.

e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON: This occurs because you have the HDMI-CEC/ARC feature on your TV set to ON as well as HDMI Control on the AVR set to ON. The "TV Audio Switching" (SETUP - VIDEO - HDMI Setup - TV Audio Switching) factory defaults to ON. Set this to OFF to resolve this issue. You would then need to manually select the "TV Audio" source on the remote when you want to pass the TV smart app audio back to the AVR.

f. Cannot see networked Denon on my computer/laptop: Try doing the following: Go to "control panel"..."my computer"... "my network places"..."show icons for networked upnp devices." If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router, go to Advanced (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable IGMP Proxy which should resolve the issue. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an Ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.

g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV: Adjust the Dynamic EQ "Reference Offset" setting from 0 to 10db. You can also try increasing the center channel volume by adjusting the Center Dialogue setting. Setting Dynamic Volume to ON(Evening/Medium) will also help to improve lower level dialogue. And lastly, another option is to use the "Multi CH Stereo" mode which will add the dialog to the surround speakers bringing it closer to your main listening position.

h. "Connection failed. Check the device": This error occurs with the networking models when the AVR is unable to connect to the home internet router/modem. Place the AVR in Standby and unplug for a few minutes. Reset the router or connect directly to the router if connecting wirelessly. You also may want to consider replacing the router if it is more than several years old with one that is capable of handling higher bandwidth. If you are using an Apple device, make sure that "Home Sharing" is turned ON (as it may have been turned OFF by updating the firmware/iOS). If you use a NETGEAR router, try disabling the UPnP mode. If the SSID of your router contains a "space", rename the router without the space.

i. Green screen on TV: This is usually the result of either a bad HDMI cable or HDMI handshake issue with the TV. Try replacing the HDMI cables with "High Speed" (1080p) cables. Also try the HDMI Handshake resolution tips listed in item (k) below. If after doing the suggested tips, you are still seeing a green screen, give Denon a call as there may be an issue with the AVR's HDMI board.

j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo: Sometimes when a TV station indicates the HD show is in DD 5.1, they will only broadcast a stereo signal but do it over a 5.1 audio track with blank channels so although the front panel display will say Dolby Digital you will only hear audio from your front L/R speakers. And because it is detected as DD 5.1, you cannot use a simulation mode (eg. DD PLII or Dolby Surround) to simulate 5.1 audio. Note also that not all HD channels are broadcast using DD 5.1 audio and even those that are advertised as DD 5.1, the station may only broadcast stereo 2.0.

k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts): Handshake issues will most often present as "audio dropouts" or sometimes video display issues. Ensure the source device having the issue has the latest firmware installed and has been reset (ie. powered down, unplugged for a few minutes, then powered back ON again). For a more detailed HDMI reset try the following procedure ....


  • HDMI HDCP reset
  • With all devices powered on, remove the two HDMI cables at both ends from the source device to the AVR and from the AVR to the TV.
  • Power off all devices and disconnect power cables to all devices.
  • Wait 10-15 minutes.
  • Reconnect HDMI and power cables to all devices.
  • Power on the devices in this order ... TV, wait a few secs, AVR, wait a few secs, and then source device (although this is the generally recommended order, in some instances, you may have better luck powering on the AVR first and then the TV, then the source last ... bottom line if it's still not working, try a different power on sequence).
If the issue only involves the cable/sat box, HDMI handshake issues with cable/sat boxes are quite common (with any brand of AVR) and are usually always the fault of the cable/sat box not being designed to be connected to an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) which is why they work without issue connected directly to the TV. Give your cable/sat box provider a call to see if there is a separate firmware update that can be applied to the box to resolve the issue although note that in some cases, a future firmware update to the cable/sat box may very well cause an HDMI handshake issue as well, so your best option to avoid the issue now (or in the future) is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV and also connect an optical cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR for surround audio. If you don't have an optical cable available, and your cable/sat box has a coax digital "orange" output, you can also use a coax digital cable (note: a "yellow" composite video RCA cable is a suitable substitute) and connect it to the SAT/CBL coax digital input on the AVR (ie. right next to the optical jack). Note that with this configuration (ie. HDMI straight to TV) you will lose the GUI/status menu for the cable/sat box, but you retain the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only with the AVR in Standby (eg. news, sports, wife, kids). Another option, if your AVR features a component video input is to connect both a component video cable and an optical (or digital coax) cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR noting that although you gain the GUI/status menu feature, you will lose the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only. You may also want to try upgrading to a different model cable/sat box.


Other possible solutions:
  • Try inserting an HDMI switch in between the AVR and the TV (or better yet add either an HDMI Dective Plus or Dr HDMI).
  • Ensure there is proper ventilation around the AVR (at least 3-4" above the unit) and if enclosed in a cabinet, use a PC fan to exhaust the heated air out the back of the cabinet
  • HDMI performance can also vary between the different HDMI input jacks due to quirks of circuit board design so be sure to try each of the other HDMI inputs as one may work better than another
  • With the (S920W/X2300W) and higher models, if you are having a video issue, try setting the "Resolution" setting to the resolution of the TV(eg. 1080p) rather than using the "Auto" setting.
  • Try inserting the Dr. HDMI between the AVR and the TV/PJ.

l. HTPC won't pass audio/video: HTPC connections can be "iffy" at best. If you are having problems trying to connect your HTPC to the AVR, ensure the HDMI port on the HTPC is selected for audio/video output and that the latest firmware is installed on the HTPC video card or try a different video card if one is available. Try each of the HDMI inputs on the AVR (especially the one closest to the HDMI Monitor Out jack) as well as ensuring the HTPC is set to a standard TV resolution rather than the default resolution of the HTPC's display. If using a 6' HDMI cable, try using a longer HDMI cable (12'+) as this has been known to work in some instances. The issue likely involves incorrect EDID information being passed to the HTPC video card from jhe AVR. Refer to this post and this post both of which discuss an EDID Override procedure. If you are having problems using Windows Media Player then try using TVersity. If you are having problems playing .flac files, try using ffdshow. Sometimes connecting a Gefen HDMI Detective between the HTPC and the AVR has been known to resolve the EDID issues. The HDMI Detective also works well with DVI TV's that are having EDID issues. If you are trying to connect to a Panasonic plasma, and getting the 10 red blinking light on the Panny, check out this post for several solutions.


NVIDIA video card owners: Try the following: Bring up the NVIDIA control panel. For display options, select the AVR (not the HTPC display). AVR->Adjust desktop color settings->Apply the following enhancements->Content type reported to the display->Full-screen video (vice the default of AUTO).

If the HTPC is having issues reconnecting after coming out of "sleep" mode, then refer to this ATI solution or this NVIDIA solution for more info to resolve the issue.

Another option is to set the “Video Mode" setting to either "MOVIE" or "GAME" vice "AUTO."

m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video: Other than the possibility of an HDMI handshake, try connecting the HDMI cable to each of the other inputs on the AVR to determine if one HDMI jack works better for you with that input (previous year's models have shown that HDMI1 and HDMI2 react differently than the other inputs). Also try all the HDMI inputs on your TV as well as ensuring there is a tight, secure connection at both ends of the HDMI cable as sometimes the cable can just be loose. Note that just because the HDMI cable works when connected directly to the TV, doesn't necessarily mean it will work when connected to the AVR. When in doubt, try another HDMI cable that is confirmed to work with the AVR. You may also want to try inserting an HDMI switch between the AVR and the TV.

n. No audio from single speaker: If there is no audio coming from a single speaker, try swapping the speaker with another speaker to ensure it works. If it works, it's not the speaker. Place it back in its’ original location. Unhook the speaker wire at the AVR posts and connect it to a AA battery (+/+ and then tap the - to the -). If you hear static at the speaker, then there is no short in the wire itself and the issue is with the AVR channel. Try resetting the microprocessor as noted in post #5 to see if that resolves the issue. If not, time to call Denon or your local Denon authorized repair facility.

o. No Video on AVR front panel display: If you suddenly find no video being displayed on the front panel display, check to see that the PURE button on the remote wasn't pressed and changed the surround mode to PURE DIRECT which turns off the front panel display. Also check to make sure all your cable connections are securely inserted into their jacks as kids, cats, and cleaning folks have a habit of getting to the back panels and can accidently loosen the connection.

p. Projector - no video displayed: If you are running an HDMI cable from the AVR to a projector that is longer than 20' and it won't pass 1080p video but will pass 720p, then the signal is too weak. Test this by using a shorter cable to the PJ. HDMI generally only works to about 15'-20' without issues, although some owners have indicated with a Monoprice 50' HDMI cable they have no issues. Monoprice also now sells “active” HDMI cables. . If replacing the cable is not possible, you'll likely want to try a powered HDMI extender. Check Monoprice as there are several models offered. For those of you using HDMI--> CAT 5/6 converters, and having video display issues, you may want to try using this HDMI voltage enhancer.

q. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No video or intermittent video issue: On the PS3 or Blu Ray player, set the "Deep Color Output" setting to OFF. Ensure the game machine is set to a standard TV resolution otherwise the AVR won't recognize the signal. Additionally, on the xBox, try turning off “auto-detect display settings” and forcing the display settings to match the TV.

r. Speaker volume change won't stick: When you make individual speaker/sub volume changes using Manual Setup - Test Tones, the changes are global and will apply to all source inputs. If you want to make source specific changes, use the OPTION - Channel Level Adjust.

s. Sub not working: If there is no audio coming from the sub, it could be the sub is dead, the sub's power cord isn't plugged in and the sub powered ON, the sub coax digital cable is bad, there is an issue with the AVR sub preout, or the AVR's speaker settings are incorrect. First make sure the sub is plugged in and powered ON. Remove the cable from the AVR sub preout jack and rub your finger over the connector tip. You should hear some static from the sub. If not, replace the cable with another cable (use a "yellow" composite video cable to test with) and try again. If still no noise from the sub, then you may have a busted sub. Otherwise if there is noise from the sub, the issue is with the AVR. Make sure that all speakers are set to SMALL (Manual Setup as well as 2CH Direct/Stereo custom settings if your model has this feature) with no lower than 80hz crossovers which will then pass all audio below 80hz to the sub. If you have your front speakers set to LARGE and the sub set to LFE, then although the sub will play the low bass in the 0.1 (LFE) channel during DD/DTS 5.1 movies, it will not play the low bass in stereo (2.0) music unless you change the sub setting to LFE+Main, although the issue with no bass during music is alleviated if the front mains are set to SMALL w/80hz crossovers as is suggested after running Audyssey Setup.

t. Surround mode changes: You change the surround mode for SD channels from stereo to DD PLII - Cinema but it changes back to stereo the next time you turn on the AVR. The most common cause for this is that you are using a Quick Select button to select the source and didn't re-memorize the new surround setting to the Quick Select by pressing/holding the QS button for 3-4 seconds after making the change. Otherwise, the Personal Memory Plus feature of the AVR will remember the setting and use that same setting the next time that source signal is received.

u. Unresolved Issues: If you are experiencing an issue with your AVR that is not listed in post #4 of this thread, and for which you cannot get a resolution either by (a) reviewing the information in this thread, (b) unplugging the AVR for a few minutes, (c) resetting the source device, (d) ensuring the source device has the firmware updated (if possible), (e) ensuring the AVR has it's firmware updated (if a networking model), (f) resetting the microprocessor using the procedure in your Owner’s manual, or (g) posting the issue in this thread, then call Denon CSR at 800-497-8921 and report the issue. If you have not reported it to Denon yourself personally, don't assume that Denon is aware of the issue. If the CSR response is "I've never heard of your issue before," ask the CSR if they can test it out on one of their units there and call you back. If they don't comply, go to Denon's website here, review their FAQ and if still no resolution, then register, and submit your issue with the AVR as well as the response provided by the Denon CSR via the "Ask A Question" tab. Regardless of how you submit your question, if you receive a response from Denon that resolves your issue, please post Denon's response here in the thread so others might learn from it as well.

v. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box: Setting Audyssey Dynamic Vol to OFF for the AT&T U-Verse source input should resolve this issue, otherwise you can bypass the AVR with HDMI from the box to the TV and optical from the box to the AVR.

w. White sparkles on TV: If you see white sparkles (ie. snow) displayed on the HDTV when the source is connected via HDMI, this may be a sign the HDMI cable is defective. Before replacing the cable; however, try powering on your equipment in this order: TV, AVR, source device and see if that resolves the issue. If not, you can find inexpensive High Speed (1080p/4k) or Standard (720p/1080i) replacement cables at forum sponsor Monoprice. If it's happening with your Blu Ray player (BDP) only, try setting Deep Color Output to OFF. Some LG BDP's output in Deep Color and don't have a setting to turn it OFF. If you are having issues with it, you may want to consider changing to another brand of BDP.

x. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?: The AVR will set any speaker to LARGE if it detects it can handle frequencies < 50hz in your room (regardless of what they are rated for on paper). If there is no sub in your setup, the front mains must default to LARGE, otherwise if there is a sub, then manually set the speaker to SMALL with at least a 60hz or 80hz crossover. For more information on bass management and the LARGE/SMALL settings refer to this article.

y. Why "Multi Ch In" and not DD/DTS/Dolby TrueHD/DTS MA HD/Atmos/DTS:X?: This is because your source device (eg. Blu Ray player or HTPC) is set to "PCM" and so it is decoding/uncompressing the audio to PCM. If you want the AVR to do the decoding (although it won't matter audio quality wise which one decodes it) so you can see the compressed audio track on the AVR's front panel display then set the source device to "bitstream" with either the Secondary Audi/BD Audio Mix set to OFF. Note that when playing an ATMOS or DTS:X BD, the source device must be set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio (OFF).

On the PS4: The PS4 has two audio settings, the main audio settings for games and apps, which should ideally be set to LPCM. This is so it doesn't need to reencode the PCM audio data that games output to whatever audio codec you set. While the second audio setting is only available by opening up the pop-up menu when watching a blu-ray or DVD; this is where you can set bitstream audio to receive Dolby True-HD/Atmos or DTS-HD/X.

z. Why only "STEREO" or "Dolby Surround" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?: This is because you likely had your Blu Ray player or game box connected directly to your TV (prior to adding the AVR) which could only receive a stereo signal so the source device is only passing a stereo 2.0 signal. Reset the BDP/game box while connected to the AVR so it will pass a multi-channel signal (also see above para (y)). Refer to your BDP or game box owner's manuals on how to reset them to pass multi-channel audio noting that with some 2015 and newer BDPs (ie. Panasonic and Sony), it is no longer possible for the BDP to decode other than 2CH audio, so the BDP will have to be set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio/BD Audio Mix set to OFF to pass multi channel audio to the AVR.

z1. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect: If you have a (S510BT/S720W/X1300W) (ie. no video card), there is no ASPECT setting, so regardless of what you have the Wii set to, it will only display to 16:9 if you change your TV setting from "AUTO" to "Fullscreen" (or whatever the setting is to expand 4:3 content to 16:9). Note that any other picture display/format changes must also be made using the TV as there are no video display setting changes.

z2. WIN 7/8/10 PC shows up as "Not Authorized": On the AVR, set DHCP to OFF, then put in a manual address for the router and set DHCP back to ON. Also check Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> View Network Computers and Devices --> Denon AVR-XXXX .... change setting from "Blocked" to "Allowed."

z3. Windows Media Player (WMP 11/12) audio files won't play from PC via wireless network: If you have an extremely large media library which includes artwork with the files and some of the files are not playing on the AVR, try using MediaMonkey to strip/hide the artwork from the AVR. First when adding the library to MediaMonkey, you have to go to tools\\options\\library and uncheck “scan file directory for artwork”. After the transfer you still have the artwork for every single song embedded in the tag. You can easily remove that by hitting the right button over the picture and after choosing “remove image” also check the option “remove image from all the tracks in the album”. Doing so should then allow you to play the album wirelessly to the AVR. Removing the artwork can be done with the FREE version, although review the website for the benefits of using the Gold version if additional capabilities are needed.


12. Zone 2

a. 2-CH Amp: The "X" models each have Zone 2 pre-outs (the X4300H and X6300H also have Zone 3 pre-outs) which can be used to connect a red/white RCA cable to an external amp if you want to run a 7.1 setup in the main zone plus Zone 2 and/or Zone 3 speakers, otherwise, if you only want to run a 5.1 setup, you can use the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts to power the Zone 2 speakers (7.1 models only). You can generally find used 2CH amps on Craigslist for ~$50 or you can buy a new AudioSource Amp100VS . You can also re-purpose an old AVR you own as well by connecting the RCA cable to one of the 2nd AVR's stereo analog inputs and connecting the Zone 2 speakers to the FL/FR speaker posts on the Zone 2 AVR. Set the surround mode on the old AVR to "DIRECT" and the volume level to at least 80%.

b. Source Limitations:

Depending on the model, the Zone 2 models (all but S510BT) have up to two ways to pass HDMI audio to Zone 2. The 2016 (S720W. S920W) and all "X" models feature an "All Zone Stereo" feature that can pass the same stereo HDMI audio playing in the main zone to the Zone 2 Amp Assign speaker posts or Zone 2 pre-outs (X series only). Additionally the 2016 (X3300W/X4300H/X6300H) models are able to pass the same or an independent HDMI1-7 (rear panel only) PCM 2.0 audio source to the Zone 2 (HDMI) monitor out jack (note that when the same HDMI source is selected for both main and Zone 2, the main zone will be down mixed to the lowest common denominator of the two TVs connected to the monitor outputs even with Zone 2 set to OFF such that if the Zone 2 TV can only process a stereo 2.0 signal, the main zone will be down mixed to stereo as well).


Otherwise, on the (S720W, S920W, X1300W, X2300W) models, to pass independent external sources to Zone 2 will require connecting an analog RCA (red/white) cable from the source to the AVR in addition to the HDMI cable for the main zone.

c. Whole House Audio: If you have other than the S510BT and want to send the "same" audio to more than just one zone/room, you can connect a multi zone impedance matching speaker selector (eg. 4 zone speaker selector) to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts. If adding more than 2 additional rooms; however, you will want to consider an AVR model that has Zone 2 pre-outs (ie. "X" models only) so that a separate 2CH amp can run the whole house speakers. You would then connect the speaker selector between the speakers and the external amp.

d. Wireless Headphones: One advantage of having a model with Zone 2 pre-outs (ie. "X" model), is that you can connect a set of analog wireless headphones (eg. Sennheiser) and listen to music elsewhere in the house while someone is watching a movie or playing a game in the main zone (noting the Zone 2 limitations listed above).



Disclaimer: All information posted above is believed to be accurate. If you find that to not be the case, please PM me with the corrected information to include links which may no longer work. Also if you have any other 3rd party product recommendations please PM with that information as well.

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Known Issues (or carried over from 2015 models until identified as resolved) relating to the 2016 Denon S/X Series models


This post will be used to list any known issues or clarifications being discussed in this thread or identified by Denon as well as their resolution (if any). If you are experiencing any issues, ensure the unit has the latest firmware update installed. The first troubleshooting step if the AVR starts acting abnormally would be a "soft reset" which is just setting the unit to Standby and unplugging the power cord for 10 or more minutes.

1. Changing Audyssey settings okay: The below listed notes in each of the Owner's manuals often causes confusion and needs some clarification ....



o If you change the speaker settings after performing Audyssey Setup, you will no longer be able to select Audyssey MultEQ XT, DynamicEQ, or Dynamic Volume.

The above does not apply to changing the LARGE/SMALL/distance/crossover/speaker or sub volume settings, rather only applies if you add additional speakers that have not previously been EQ'd by Audyssey. After running Audyssey, make any sub volume changes using the AVR rather than the gain/volume knob on the sub itself.

2. Unable to use DSU on DTS audio track: By design, when playing a "bitstream" DTS HD audio track with Height speakers, on the 2016 models (unlike on the 2014 Atmos models where it is possible) it is not possible to use the Dolby Surround upmixer to simulate audio to the Height speakers. If listed on the BD, select the DD or standard DTS track or set the BDP to "PCM" and let it decode the audio first (ie. the front panel will display "Multi CH IN") in order to use the DSU. Once the DTS Neural:X firmware update is added at a future date (ETA August - X3300W and lower models), it will be possible to simulate audio to the Height speakers playing a "bitstream" DTS HD audio track. Update: Denon will be releasing a firmware update later in 2016 that will allow cross format mixing (ie. DSU on DTS audio and DTS Neural:X on DD audio) for all Atmos models.


3. SAVE/LOAD: Using IE to perform a SAVE of the config.dat file may or may not work, however using another browser will generally work every time. Enter the following URLs into your laptop/desktop web browser replacing the 192.168.0.XXX with your own unit's IP address.

SAVE - 192.168.0.XXX/SETUP/OTHERS/SAVE/f_config_save.asp

LOAD - 192.168.0.XXX/SETUP/OTHERS/LOAD/f_config_load.asp


Note: The X4300H and X6300H no longer feature an on board Web Control capability. A future firmware update will allow using the SAVE/LOAD to a USB thumb drive.


A. Using Internet Explorer
Note that if you are using Internet Explorer 10 (or other browser) and do not immediately see the SAVE/LOAD setting below the General button (as noted in the image below), after selecting the Setup Menu from the top menu, per forum members Ace Deprave/Sean Spamilton, try either selecting the Compatibility View icon (broken square) in the URL address bar on your laptop or go to Tools - Compatibility View Settings and add the AVR's IP address and you should see the SAVE/LOAD ...



B. Using Google Chrome
To use Google Chrome, follow the instructions listed in this post ----> Post #2775 of 2014 Denon AVR Owner's thread..

C. Using Firefox or Safari
Forum member enricoclaudio reported that you can use either Firefox or Safari by entering the following URL into either browser window....http://192.168.0.236/SETUP/OTHERS/f_others.asp replacing the "192.168.0.236" in the IP address with your own AVR's IP address.

----------------------

Regardless of which browser you use, although the AVR may successfully load the config.dat file to your PC, it may not power back on afterwards as is noted on the SAVE page.

For more general helpful information, refer to the SAVE/LOAD info listed in post 3 item 4.i of this thread.


4. Subwoofer Level Adjust (SLA) - This setting should be linked to the Manual Setup - Levels - Test Tones (Subwoofer); however, is not linked, such that if your sub is set to -6db in Manual Setup and you set the SLA setting to ON (without modifying the factory default setting of 0db), the sub volume level will be increased to 0db, so in other words, in this instance doing so would increase the volume by +6db (-6db --> 0db). Much better to use either the Manual Setup - Test Tones - Subwoofer for a global change to all sources or the Option - Channel Level Adjust - Subwoofer for a change to that specific source only. Note the Dialog Level Adjust acts the same way when adjusting the volume of the center speaker, so again, use the Test Tone - Center setting instead when you want to raise/lower the center speaker volume level for all sources.

5. Video issues with long (ie. >15') HDMI cables w/HDMI 2.0/4k sources - Passing a full 4k/HDCP 2.2 video signal may cause problems with your existing HDMI cables if they are not of sufficient quality even though there are no problems passing a 1080p signal over the same cable. The following cables have been shown to work with 4k sources:

a. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...iglink20246-20

6. HTPC takes 30-60 seconds to connect: Try setting the Video Conversion setting to OFF. Note that in doing so the GUI will no longer overlay on the source video.

7. Audio drop-outs while playing Atmos Blu Ray disc on older model Blu Ray players (BDP): If you’re using an older BDP (eg. Oppo 93) and listening to an Atmos audio track which makes use of Seamless Branching, you may run into random audio dropouts. A work around is to set the BDP to "PCM" vice "bitstream" and let the BDP decode the Dolby TrueHD audio to PCM and on the AVR select the "Multi CH IN + Dolby Surround" mode which will simulate audio to the "height" speakers with no audio dropouts; however, in order for the AVR to play the "bitstream" Atmos track without the random audio dropouts, you'll need to upgrade to a newer BDP. This is true for any brand of AVR. Note, however, that if you are not using "height" speakers (ie. only 5.1 or 7.1), this issue should not apply to you as your setup is only playing the Dolby TrueHD core audio track.

8. Connecting a FireTV using a 1080p TV results in "TV is not HDCP 2.2" message displayed: Member bull3964 was able to resolve this issue with his FireTV by completing the setup of the FireTV connected directly to the 1080p TV, getting it updated, and then forcing 1080p60 in the resolution settings of the FireTV rather than going with Auto.

9. AVR won't power on when Samsung TV powers on: Try setting the "Instant On" setting on the Samsung TV to OFF.

10. 4k Video issues: Several members have noted their older Monoprice Redmere cables will not pass 4k video so they will have to be replaced with the newer 18Gbps "Premium" certified cables. This also holds true for most 4k video related issues (ie. upgrade to the new "Premium" certified cables).

11. DTS:X will not bitstream from Sony disc changer: Several Sony disc changers (to include BDP-CX960/CX5000/CX7000) are not able to bitstream the DTS:X audio track after installing the DTS:X firmware update. Forum member "Paul Logan" found a work around by inserting an HDMI switch with "adjustable EDID" which resolved the issue and allowed the Sony disc changer to bitstream the DTS:X audio. Refer to this post --> Marantz AV8802 13.2 XLR Pre/Pro **Official Thread**

12. "No HDCP 2.2 hardware detected" message displayed: Several owners have indicated that when playing some 4k/UHD BDs (Mad Max, Fantastic 4) this message will display when the disc initially loads the menu, however, once the movie is selected and starts playing, the 4k video is passed to the TV without further issue.

13. 1.5 second audio lag streaming X4300H/X6300H AVR audio to HEOS speaker: There is currently a 1.5 second delay between the AVR audio and other HEOS devices when grouped and playing a 2CH source that is connected to an AVR input. This is required to maintain lip sync for the TV audio. The ability to delay the AVR audio to match the HEOS group will be added in an upcoming firmware update.

14. Unable to add vTuner account @ radioDenon.com: In order to create a new vTuner account (Note: vTuner no longer available on the X4300H or X6300H), you must first play a few of the available Internet Radio stations so the vTuner servers can recognize the AVR's MAC address. Once having done so, you should then be able to use your PC and go to <radiodenon.com> and enter your AVR's MAC address (using the AVR's remote ---> SETUP - NETWORK - INFORMATION - MAC ADDRESS). After the account is created, you should then be able to add more Internet Radio stations to your AVR's list of available stations.

15. Unable to logon to Pandora: Pandora updated their security certificates late June 2016 without notifying the mfr's which requires a firmware update to resolve. D+M started releasing the fix in August according to the schedule linked here ---> http://denon.custhelp.com/app/answer...-using-pandora.

16. Color banding: A couple of X3300W and X4300H owners have noticed a color banding issue present on 4:2:2 10-bit video content. Try setting Video Conversion to OFF and if still no joy, call Denon CSR to report the issue if it presents on your unit.

17. Unable to pair Bluetooth device: Disabling Wifi should allow for pairing the Bluetooth device after which the Wifi setting can be enabled again.

18. Hissing noise using X6300H + Audyssey at loud volume levels: This issue presents on some X6300H units at louder volume levels although may not be noticeable unless using very sensitive/efficient (eg. Klipsch 98db) speakers. Call Denon CSR to report the issue if it presents on your unit.

19. Source will not pass HDR10: On the S920W/X2300W set the Video Mode = "Bypass" while on the X3300W and higher models set Video Conversion to OFF.

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How do I reset the microprocessor or do a network reset on my 2016 Denon S/X series AVR?

When the AVR is acting up or doing something strange, the first thing to try is a "soft reset" (ie. set the AVR to Standby and unplug the power cord for about 10 minutes, then plug back in the power cord and turn ON). If this doesn't resolve the issue, then you'll need to reset the microprocessor. You'll also want to reset the microprocessor before doing anything else if you purchased the AVR as an "open box" or demo/used/refurb unit to ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults. The "X" models (and S920W) feature the Web Control (SAVE/LOAD) that allows the config file (including the Audyssey setup) to be saved to a PC that can then be loaded after the reset to restore all previous settings (as all settings will be wiped out and require you to run Audyssey Setup again otherwise). Although it doesn't have the on board Web Control feature, S720W owners can gain access to these features as well (see note below). The reset instructions are listed in your owner's manual as shown below ...

Microprocessor Reset (aka "Reset to original factory settings")

S510BT - p. 105

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing the "SOUND MODE" and "TUNER PRESET CH +" (leftmost buttons just under the front panel display)
3 - Remove your fingers when "Initialized" appears on the front panel display.

-------------------------

S720W - p. 225
S920W - p. 239
X1300W - p. 233
X2300W - p. 243
X3300W - p. 250
X4300H - p. 286
X6300H - p. 288


1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY on the front panel.
2 - Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing:

[S720W/S920W/X1300W/X2300W/X3300W] "TUNER PRESET CH +" and "TUNER PRESET CH -" (leftmost buttons just under the front panel display on "X" series models);

[X4300H/X6300H] - "INFO" and "BACK"

3 - Remove your fingers when "Initialized" appears on the front panel display.

--------------------

** NOTES:
(1) Prior to resetting the microprocessor for the "X" models (and S920W), you can SAVE the config/settings (to include Audyssey settings) to a PC file using the Web Control feature listed on the pages below. This process will take about 15 minutes to complete.

S920W - p. 139
X1300W - p. 139
X2300W - p. 141
X3300W - p. 144
X4300H - (not listed)
X6300H - (not listed)


(2) If the SAVE procedure is not completing successfully using either Internet Explorer (PC) or Safari (Mac), try using Firefox instead.

How to access the SAVE/LOAD feature using the S720W

Enter your unit's IP address (eg. 192.168.100.19) into the PC's web browser which should display the Web Control screen and the SAVE/LOAD settings. If not, then enter the following additional information after the IP address. Replace the example IP address below with your AVR's IP address ....:

Web Control: 192.168.100.19/MainZone/index.html

SAVE/LOAD: 192.168.100.19/Setup_Index.asp

-------------

Discrete network chip only reset (settings retained)

1 - With the AVR powered ON, select "Online Music" as the input source.
2 - Simultaneously press/hold the: S720W/S920W/X1300W/X2300W/X3300W - "TUNER PRESET CH + / TUNER PRESET CH -; X4300H/X6300H - "DIMMER+ ">" (right arrow)" buttons on the front panel
3 - Hold the buttons for a few seconds until the display reads "Network Restart" and then release the buttons. The process will take a few minutes.

-------------

HARD RESET (network + microprocessor reset)

Although not listed in the Owner's manual, a "Hard reset" can be done using the below listed procedures which will not only reset the network card but will also do a microprocessor reset in the process and return all settings to their factory defaults.

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Simultaneously press/hold the: S720W/S920W - "Tuner Preset Ch+" and "Tune -"; X1300/X2300/X3300W - "Zone 2 Source" and "Dimmer" ; X4300H/X6300H - "UP/DOWN" arrow buttons on the front panel and then press the ON/STANDBY button on the front panel.
3 - Once the display starts flashing at intervals of about 1 second, release the two buttons (hold for at least 4-5 seconds).

** If in step 3 the display does not flash at intervals of about 1 second, start over from step 1.
-------------

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Firmware Update Information for the 2016 Denon S/X Series models


(1) Firmware updates for all 2016 models should be available via Denon's website and can be downloaded and installed via USB thumb drive. You will need to enter the serial number of the AVR at the website page to obtain the update. Note this is the only method to update the S510BT as it is not a networking model. I provide a detailed description of how to do a USB update in post 6301 of this thread linked here.

(2) Firmware updates for the network models (ie. S720W and higher) can also be installed by the owner via an internet connection to the Denon servers. Although it's not necessary to update your unit if you are not experiencing any problems, it's generally a good idea to keep it updated so that if there are any problems with the update the unit will still be covered under warranty. The update process generally doesn't take more than 30 minutes once the download begins and also generally does not erase any settings, although it's always a good idea to SAVE the settings config.dat file using the Web Control feature prior to doing the update just in case. Note that if the update process is stuck on "Authenticating", ensure a source other than NET/USB is selected and just let it continue for up to a few hours and it should eventually begin the update process (although note that Denon's servers have been known to crash the first day of release due to the overload, so you may want to wait a few days before trying again). Some have noted that rather than selecting the "Check for Update", instead simply selecting the "Start Update" will avoid the "Authenticating" issue. One prior model year owner found that disconnecting ALL sources to the AVR enabled the unit to connect to the Denon servers and update the firmware when the update process had previously been unsuccessful.

Other tips if having problems with the update include setting "Network Standby/IP Control/Network" to OFF, cycling the DHCP setting on the AVR, or using a static IP address.

During the update, the AVR will go into Standby mode, but will continue to update status on the front panel display. If the update seems to be hung up (ie. goes beyond 1 hour) ... power the AVR to Standby, unplug it for a few minutes and power back on and attempt the update again. If the update fails to load, check the network environment (ie. reset the router, replace the router with a more current/robust model, or ideally wire directly to the router if connecting wirelessly) If still not having any luck with the update, perform a Network Reset as shown in post ##5 above. You may also want to consider purchasing a long (100'+) Cat5/6 cable for network updates only for a higher probability of a successful install.

Networking model owners will be notified automatically when there is a firmware update when the AVR is turned ON as long as the Notification Update setting is set to ON (factory default). For more information refer to Setup - General - Firmware - Notifications -Update in your respective Owner's manual. To manually check for an update, refer to Setup - General - Firmware - Update - Check for Update.

(3) What is my unit's current firmware version? The current firmware version on the S720 and higher models can be determined from the AVR's menu: Setup --> General --> Information --> Firmware Version.

(4) There are two firmware notification settings, both of which default to "ON" from the factory..... "Update" (fixes) and "Upgrade" (new feature). When either an "update" or "upgrade" is available the networking models will display a message alerting you to this "update" or "upgrade" every time you turn on the AVR. If you prefer not to install the update/upgrade, then simply change the appropriate setting at General --> Firmware --> Notifications ---> Update/Upgrade to OFF (factory default is ON) and it will go away.


This area will be used to track the change log of the firmware updates for 2016 S/X series models

X6300H
1. 11-28-2016
- Added the Distribution Standby (HEOS ON) feature: The firmware supported to the streaming feature of Legacy Source (The sources other than network: Ex. CD source etc.) to other HEOS devices when the AVR was in the state of the standby.
- Modifying of music streaming service name (LOGO display of TV UI): The firmware supported service name changes from Amazon Music to Amazon Unlimited.
- Numerous HEOS additional bug fixes (not listed here)

X4300H
1. 11-28-2016
- See X6300H for this date


X3300W
1. 9-26-2016
- Unable to logon to Pandora
- Added DTS:X and DTS Neural:X
- Added DD/DTS cross mix capability
2. 3-7-2017
- Supported the AVR Remote 2.1.0
- Allows continued use of Spotify Connect after Spotify Connect Servers are updated
- Even if the customer registers the Audyssey MultEQ/XT setting to the Quick Select in the following specific operation, the setting of the MultEQ/XT changes when calling the Quick Select


X2300W
1. 9-26-2016
- See X3300W for this date
2. 3-7-2017
- See X3300W for this date



X1300W
1. 9-16-2016
- Unable to logon to Pandora
- Added DTS:X and DTS Neural:X
- Added DD/DTS cross mix capability
2. 3-3-2017
- Supported the AVR Remote 2.1.0
- Allows continued use of Spotify Connect after Spotify Connect Servers are updated
- Even if the customer registers the Audyssey MultEQ/XT setting to the Quick Select in the following specific operation, the setting of the MultEQ/XT changes when calling the Quick Select

S920W
1. 9-26-2016
- See X3300W for this date
2. 3-7-2017
- See X3300W for this date

S720W
1. 9-16-2016
- See X1300W for this date
2. 3-3-2017
- See X1300W for this date

S510BT
1. 10-28-2015
- User may be confused in case of HDMI monitor unconnected during Setup Assistant because front panel display doesn't indicate anything.
- Video Appears Washed Out.
- No Recognition of Android devices via USB connection (front panel display indicates just 'Loading').
- Change TV UI indicating just 'USB Not Supported' to one suggesting to connect via Bluetooth.


** NOTES:
(1) The change log information above is provided as is, without any further explanation and only when I am able to obtain it. If the information listed above doesn't make sense, please don't ask for clarification, as I have none.
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Notable differences comparing the 2016 to 2015 S/X models

Note: The below does not list the difference between each model upgrade within the 2016 series (see post 2) but rather simply the difference from the 2015 model it is replacing. So for example the "X" series have Zone 2 pre-outs but the "S" series do not; however, this feature has not changed from the 2015 models, and therefore is not listed below.

2016 vs. 2015 models:
- Dual band 802.11n Wifi (2.4Ghz, 5Ghz)
- Auto Lip sync delay (increase from 200ms to 500ms)
- RC Select (allows changing of an HDMI pass through source while the AVR is in Standby mode)
- Playback of high resolution audio files (DSD 5.6 Mhz - increased from 2.8 Mhz) via USB and network
- Audyssey phone app (ETA fall 2016) - able to tweak Audyssey EQ (all but S510BT)

Additionally:
S720W vs. S710W:
- n/a

S920W vs. S910W:
- No analog --> HDMI video conversion (ie. only HDMI --> HDMI; Component --> Component; Composite --> Composite)

X1300W vs. X1200W:
- n/a

X2300W vs. X2200W:
- No analog --> HDMI video conversion (ie. only HDMI --> HDMI; Component --> Component; Composite --> Composite)

X3300W vs. X3200W:
- Audyssey MultEQ XT32, Audyssey Sub EQ HT (dual sub level/delay)

X4300H vs. X4200W:
- 9CH AVR (w/expansion to 11CH via 2CH external amp), Denon HEOS module on board (stream audio to AVR using HEOS app or stream 2CH audio from AVR to up to 32 HEOS wireless speakers set throughout the house), Note: Front Wide speakers no longer supported and Web Control no longer available (to be replaced by new app capability with SAVE/LOAD via USB later this fall); Bluetooth Class 1 - up to 98'.

X6300H vs. X6200W:
- 11CH AVR (no further expansion capability), Denon HEOS module on board (stream audio to AVR using HEOS app or stream 2CH audio from AVR to up to 32 HEOS wireless speakers set throughout the house), Smart Menu (use TV remote to control AVR), HDMI (ARC) - ON/OFF, and able to use the Surround Back L pre-out for the Auro 3D Top Surround/Voice of God speaker instead of the Sub pre-out 2. Note: Front Wide speakers no longer supported and Web Control no longer available (to be replaced by new app capability with SAVE/LOAD via USB later this fall); Bluetooth Class 1 - up to 98'.
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3D Immersive Audio formats:


Dolby Atmos + Dolby Surround upmixer (aka DSU; simulates audio to height/ceiling speakers from non-Atmos BD/DVDs)

The X3300W/X2300W/X1300W/S920W/S720W are all capable of Atmos 5.2.2 (ie. 2 height speaker maximum). You will have the choice of selecting the specific speaker pair to be used as the Atmos Height speakers (except Top Rear or Rear Height). If able to install in-ceiling or on-ceiling mounted speakers, the best location will be "Top Middle" either directly above your seated position or slightly forward of the seated position.




Notes:
(1) Speaker abbreviations used in this thread: Subwoofer (SW), Front L/R (FL/FR), Center (C), Surround L/R (SL/SR); Surround Back L/R (SBL/SBR); Front Height L/R (FHL/FHR); Top Front L/R (TFL/TFR); Top Middle L/R (TML/TMR); Top Rear L/R (TRL/TRR); Rear Height L/R (RHL/RHR), Front Dolby L/R (FDL/FDR); Surround Dolby L/R (SDL/SDR); Rear Dolby L/R (RDL/RDR).

Note the Top Rear, Rear Height, and Rear Dolby locations are only available on the X4300 and X6300 as these are both capable of 4 Height speakers whereas the lower models are only capable of 2 Height speakers.

(2) If you only have a 2.0/2.1/3.0/3.1 setup, you can still add 2 height (FH, TF, TM, or DF) speakers for a 2.X.2 or 3.X.2 setup. However, when adding 2 Surround Back speakers you must first have a 5.1 setup, although you can simply move the "side surround" speakers behind you but still connect them to the Surround speaker posts.

(3) If you already have in-ceiling "side" surrounds for a 5.1 setup, you can do a 3.1.2 setup configuring the ceiling surrounds as Top Middle or with a 5.1.2 setup, if you can add (a) Front Heights (front wall mounted), (b) Top Fronts (in-ceiling or ceiling mounted a few feet forward and above the FL/FR speakers), or (c) Front Dolby (upward firing speakers placed on top of (or near) the FL/FR speakers. Yet another option would be to add some floor side surrounds and configure the current ceiling speakers as Top Middle.

(4) For more detailed questions and additional information on Dolby Atmos, please refer to the Official Dolby Atmos thread.


Auro 3D/2D + Auro-Matic (simulates audio to height speakers from non-Auro BD/DVD) Upgrade instructions (USA models only)

Only the X4300 and X6300 can be upgraded to Auro 3D/2D (firmware upgrade available beginning Jan 5, 2017):

1. Connect the unit to the internet.
2. Ensure the unit has the latest firmware update installed.
3. Using the GUI, select Upgrade now or go to GENERAL -- FIRMWARE -- ADD NEW FEATURE and write down the "Upgrade ID" listed on the display
4. Go to the Upgrade website at http://upgrade.denon.com/na/denon/pages/home.aspx
5. Complete the Auro 3D upgrade Personal form to include personal information, the unit's serial number (listed on back of unit or on original box), and the Upgrade ID obtained in step 3.
6. Enter credit card information - cost is $199 USD which will also include the Auro 3D Demo disk.
7. Once the card has been processed, the Auro 3D upgrade will be available to download to the unit (estimated download time - will vary depending on internet connection)

Notes:
(1) For those X4300 and X6300 owners not wanting to upgrade to Auro 3D at this time, you will be given the option to set Upgrade Notification to OFF on initial setup or you can go to SETUP -- GENERAL -- FIRMWARE -- NOTIFICATIONS -- UPGRADE and select OFF so you don't get the Upgrade notification each time the unit is powered ON.

(2) A number of prior year model owners with the Auro 3D upgrade have noted they prefer the Dolby Surround upmixer (DSU) for movies and Auro-Matic for music.

(3) Additional information on Auro 3D/2D can be found in the Official Auro 3D thread.


DTS:X and DTS Neural:X

The DTS:X and DTS Neural:X firmware update is expected to be released to the X3300W and lower models in August.

Note: This update is free. Refer to the link below for additional download instructions:

http://www.denon.com/DtsxUpdate/DTS-...ENG_150331.pdf
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post #9 of 5339 Old 05-04-2016, 06:16 PM
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What is the official stance on embedded artwork using airplay? Can artwork thicker than 500ppi
still refuse to play or has this been modified?
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Originally Posted by kikkenit2 View Post
What is the official stance on embedded artwork using airplay? Can artwork thicker than 500ppi
still refuse to play or has this been modified?
Based on the new Owner's manuals, the 500x500 pixel limitation still exists.
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Originally Posted by kikkenit2 View Post
What is the official stance on embedded artwork using airplay? Can artwork thicker than 500ppi
still refuse to play or has this been modified?
I have tons of,music pirchased through itunes, those, those files play fine on x4200 with an album art and all, not sure whats the album art on music purchased through itunes

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post #12 of 5339 Old 05-05-2016, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by nohcho View Post
I have tons of,music pirchased through itunes, those, those files play fine on x4200 with an album art and all,
not sure whats the album art on music purchased through itunes
Thanks JD.
I don't buy from itunes, but I do use airplay. The users that had trouble with itunes automatically embedding
1000 ppi cover art on an owned cd that locked up their marantz. Usually itunes doesn't actually embed the picture.
They just link to another file that displays as artwork. Those pictures may not actually be embedded
in your music. There is a simple way to tell. Play a song with usb. Only embedded artwork displays.
What is the ppi (pixel per inch) of your embedded artwork? Not very many people have embedded artwork.
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post #13 of 5339 Old 05-05-2016, 02:45 PM
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What's new for the 2016 models?
All Models (except the S510BT)
- Dual band 802.11n Wifi (2.4Ghz, 5Ghz)
- Auto Lip sync delay (increase from 200ms to 500ms)
- RC Select (allows changing of an HDMI source while the AVR is in Standby mode)
That's it? It doesn't appear that there are many substantial changes at all in the 2016 flavors. Hopefully the 2015 models get their prices cut in half once their newer siblings are out.
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That's it? It doesn't appear that there are many substantial changes at all in the 2016 flavors. Hopefully the 2015 models get their prices cut in half once their newer siblings are out.
Note that manuals have only been released up to the X2300W.
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post #15 of 5339 Old 05-05-2016, 04:02 PM
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That's it? It doesn't appear that there are many substantial changes at all in the 2016 flavors. Hopefully the 2015 models get their prices cut in half once their newer siblings are out.
Yeah, not really seeing a reason to go with a x4300 2016 model, unless there are some other features on the horizon.
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post #16 of 5339 Old 05-05-2016, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Wonderful View Post
Yeah, not really seeing a reason to go with a x4300 2016 model, unless there are some other features on the horizon.
Maybe a redesigned network adapter...

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Smile

Wasn't there some chatter of having another row of Atmos speakers? Front Atmos L&R; Center Atmos L&R; Rear Atmos L&R ?? That might be a worthy upgrade to some; not that we have content that is coded that way, but heck it works for selling 4K equipment!
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I wonder why they removed analog to digital video conversion in the S920 and X2300? Since the manuals have only been released up to the X2300 so far, I wonder how far up the line this feature loss may go. Might make the 2015 models a better buy for some, since so far there seems to be very few changes.
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post #19 of 5339 Old 05-05-2016, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by vipergts2207 View Post
I wonder why they removed analog to digital video conversion in the S920 and X2300? Since the manuals have only been released up to the X2300 so far, I wonder how far up the line this feature loss may go. Might make the 2015 models a better buy for some, since so far there seems to be very few changes.
This is a major downer IMO. The $100 price drop for the X2300W is nice but IMO doesn't compensate. In this case, the X2200W is simply the better buy, esp. since the X2200W will likely be cheaper street (until stock runs out). Get the X2200W while you can!

This doesn't bode well for the 2016 Marantz SR5011 either but we shall see.
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post #20 of 5339 Old 05-06-2016, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipergts2207 View Post
I wonder why they removed analog to digital video conversion in the S920 and X2300? Since the manuals have only been released up to the X2300 so far, I wonder how far up the line this feature loss may go. Might make the 2015 models a better buy for some, since so far there seems to be very few changes.
Agreed. Analog to HDMI conversion is actually a very useful feature for many. Smells like cost cutting to me.
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post #21 of 5339 Old 05-06-2016, 03:14 PM
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Thanks JD.

Can you elaborate on "Auto Lip sync delay (increase from 200ms to 500ms)"?


You state "analog --> HDMI conversion" under S920W, but earlier say it's removed in all models up to at least X2300.


Like others said, so far it looks like 2015's models are better because of the analog to HDMI video.
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post #22 of 5339 Old 05-06-2016, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Agreed. Analog to HDMI conversion is actually a very useful feature for many. Smells like cost cutting to me.
The vast majority of new owners buying a surround sound AVR likely have only HDMI sources, so dropping analog --> HDMI conversion actually makes sense.
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post #23 of 5339 Old 05-06-2016, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks JD.

Can you elaborate on "Auto Lip sync delay (increase from 200ms to 500ms)"?


You state "analog --> HDMI conversion" under S920W, but earlier say it's removed in all models up to at least X2300.


Like others said, so far it looks like 2015's models are better because of the analog to HDMI video.

1. The new delay setting simply provides additional delay.
2. I actually say "No analog --> HDMI conversion"
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To bridge the gap between my budget and technology advancements I purchased, as mentioned before, a Pioneer 1124 to fill the void. If everything goes according to plan looking at a X4300 this fall. Although as others have noted a discounted X4200 could be might appealing.

To my question.

One of the things I do not like about the way the Pioneer, and other makes, is the logic for some of the program access. For Pandora it is not a discrete option. The way you access Pandora is cycle through the other on-line type apps. Makes it difficult to program a Harmony universal remote.

Internet radio-Pandora-Tunein-Airplay----etc.

How does the X4300 do this? Are the on-line streaming apps like Pandora assigned to their own discrete command or do you have to cycle through the different types of on-line apps?

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I love the fact that they added the Yamaha feature "RC Select" ................ this can be a very useful feature. This was one big advantage that Yamaha receivers possessed and it is nice to see Denon add this feature.
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To bridge the gap between my budget and technology advancements I purchased, as mentioned before, a Pioneer 1124 to fill the void. If everything goes according to plan looking at a X4300 this fall. Although as others have noted a discounted X4200 could be might appealing.

To my question.

One of the things I do not like about the way the Pioneer, and other makes, is the logic for some of the program access. For Pandora it is not a discrete option. The way you access Pandora is cycle through the other on-line type apps. Makes it difficult to program a Harmony universal remote.

Internet radio-Pandora-Tunein-Airplay----etc.

How does the X4300 do this? Are the on-line streaming apps like Pandora assigned to their own discrete command or do you have to cycle through the different types of on-line apps?

You first cycle through the various networking services and select Pandora and then select your saved station. Once it starts playing, you can then save your selection to one of the (4) Quick Select buttons on the remote. When you want to play it again, you can simply press the Quick Select which will not only power on the AVR but also start your Pandora radio station.
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"You first cycle through the various networking services and select Pandora"

Thanks but that's what I don't like about the way the Pioneer does things. I never did Pandora on my 3808.

No discrete command to go right to Pandora?

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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1. The new delay setting simply provides additional delay.
What's the use case for more than 200ms of delay? Not that I have a problem with more range in case it's needed, but the only things I can think of are sitting 70 meters away from the screen to need that much delay, extremely badly made discs, and serious broadcast problems.


Quote:
2. I actually say "No analog --> HDMI conversion"
Under the S920W heading: "Upgrading from the S720W adds ... analog --> HDMI conversion, ..."
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"You first cycle through the various networking services and select Pandora"

Thanks but that's what I don't like about the way the Pioneer does things. I never did Pandora on my 3808.

No discrete command to go right to Pandora?
Yes .. it's called a Quick Select as I noted.
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post #30 of 5339 Old 05-07-2016, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What's the use case for more than 200ms of delay? Not that I have a problem with more range in case it's needed, but the only things I can think of are sitting 70 meters away from the screen to need that much delay, extremely badly made discs, and serious broadcast problems.



Under the S920W heading: "Upgrading from the S720W adds ... analog --> HDMI conversion, ..."
1. No clue, rather the setting has been increased.
2. Oops! Yes, my bad. Thanks for pointing that out.
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