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How can I bi wire a B&W center channel?

18K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  sivadselim 
#1 ·
I only see two inputs on the AVR but 4 on the box ? Thx
 
#2 ·
those are for bi amping
to have one amp per frequency range


which center do you have?
 
#5 ·
Not meant to be bi-amped...besides it does nothing
 
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#6 ·
#8 ·
Is this considered "bi-amping"? I guess technically it seems to be but are there benefits to this?
I thought I read that they weren't recommended for bi-amping.
Interesting...
 
#10 ·
What advantage could you possibly get from doing this, versus just wiring with jumpers?


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#17 · (Edited)
Here's the best block diagram I've found to help consumers understand the complete folly of bi-wiring. [It uses sarcastic terminology but it is 100% correct in the point they are illustrating]:


As long as you are using the proper thickness of wire in the first place there is absolutely no difference. Bi-wiring was invented to make consumers buy-wire, twice as much as they actually need.

Interestingly even some electrical engineers just don't get it, so they apply advanced electrical prinicples such as transmission line theory [which has little to do with the frequencies and distances we use in a home audio setting] and when their computer modelling calculates a tiny, tiny, little decrease in insertion loss they proudly wave their results in our faces and proclaim, "See, it is small and maybe inaudible, but it does make a difference!" They are wrong though because they improperly used different effective wire gauges for their modelling as I shall now explain.

What they don't get is that using double the number of copper strands running across one's living room floor from the amp to the speaker will lower the load (i.e. the resistance the amp sees) and this may have a tiny, inconsequential, (usually) inaudible effect*. . . but you also could have applied that to any conventional speaker without bi-wire posts equally as well, simply by using the same two parallel runs used for bi-wiring but twisting them together, on both ends, and connecting that to any run-of-the-mill speaker without bi-wire posts. It nets the exact same results! [Or alternatively use a single thicker wire run from the get go. Again, the only change is that the amp sees a slightly easier load because more strands means an effectively thicker pipe and less resistance.]


*The change to double the number of copper strands could have an audible effect if one has purposefully used an inadequately thick wire for the original single wire run distance. But we all know an adequate gauge of wire matters so just use the right one in the first place.
 
#19 · (Edited)
#21 · (Edited)
I have a right to express both facts and opinions, as does everyone else.

A speaker with bi-wire posts should not be bi-wired. That would be a waste of money. Jumper straps, either factory ones or hand constructed ones if the free, factory supplied jumper bars are missing, should be used instead. Normally you use the supplied jumper bars, which I have now verified do come with this speaker when new.

There are many ways to do this if the free, factory ones have gone missing, for example:


Another common and simple way is to strip off a vey long, say 6 inch length of insulation from the speaker wire being used and run that from the lower set of terminals straight up to the top ones. Just be sure to keep them short enough so they don't touch the plus to the minus.

The exact method doesn't matter. Different people address it different ways.
 
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