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post #30781 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 04:04 AM
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I spent another night trying to work out what is causing my 2nd Anthem to become faulty or at least work out if it just is a failure of the unit itself. I have connected the Oppo to my TV and it works perfectly, also connected my PS3 to the Anthem and all seemed stable but I get video/audio drop outs every 5-10mins using HDMI output 2 as output 1 is totally gone. Nothing I've plugged into it works being the Oppo, Digital set top box and PS3. The video/audio drop outs are allot more frequent on the Oppo pretty much every 5secs so not useable on HDMI output 2, but the PS3 lasts about 5-10mins before the drop outs occur.

I'm basically at the end of testing now and have concluded that the failure is in the Anthem as everything suggests that now. The Oppo works fine on my LCD TV so if it's HDMI input was damaged in anyway it would have come up and it didn't. This whole situation is just unbelievable and I hope 3 times is the charm and the next unit I get is flawless. I've explained everything I'm doing to the seller and nothing I'm doing suggests it's causing this issue. The testing I've performed has ruled out cables, BD player and Projector. Just to be 100% thorough I have removed my Thor PS10 power center out of the chain and put back in a more basic power board (Ear Science powerbox locally made in Australia) that I know works. I will have the Thor serviced or at least looked at to rule that out as well. I can't afford to keep going through D2v units and finding out it's been a fault with something I've got in hooked into. I've even ordered a new 15m HDMI cable for the projector to rule that out as well but that was before doing more testing and I know now it's not cable related.

Things are pointing at yet another failing Anthem and my first unit I was told definetly had a bad HDMI board. I will be eager to find out what the issue is with my current one when it gets returned to the distributer. It's been a tough journey and one I didn't expect to happen but it has but I'm sticking with it and don't want to have to move onto a different brand as I do love the sound the D2v brings to my system. It's worth pursuing.
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post #30782 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:31 AM
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Thanks for your response. I have the new Apple TV hooked up so will come back with some observations.
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post #30783 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 08:48 AM
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[I spent another night trying to work out what is causing my 2nd Anthem to become faulty or at least work out if it just is a failure of the unit itself. I have connected the Oppo to my TV and it works perfectly, also connected my PS3 to the Anthem and all seemed stable but I get video/audio drop outs every 5-10mins using HDMI output 2 as output 1 is totally gone. Nothing I've plugged into it works being the Oppo, Digital set top box and PS3. The video/audio drop outs are allot more frequent on the Oppo pretty much every 5secs so not useable on HDMI output 2, but the PS3 lasts about 5-10mins before the drop outs occur.

I'm basically at the end of testing now and have concluded that the failure is in the Anthem as everything suggests that now. The Oppo works fine on my LCD TV so if it's HDMI input was damaged in anyway it would have come up and it didn't. This whole situation is just unbelievable and I hope 3 times is the charm and the next unit I get is flawless. I've explained everything I'm doing to the seller and nothing I'm doing suggests it's causing this issue. The testing I've performed has ruled out cables, BD player and Projector. Just to be 100% thorough I have removed my Thor PS10 power center out of the chain and put back in a more basic power board (Ear Science powerbox locally made in Australia) that I know works. I will have the Thor serviced or at least looked at to rule that out as well. I can't afford to keep going through D2v units and finding out it's been a fault with something I've got in hooked into. I've even ordered a new 15m HDMI cable for the projector to rule that out as well but that was before doing more testing and I know now it's not cable related.

Things are pointing at yet another failing Anthem and my first unit I was told definetly had a bad HDMI board. I will be eager to find out what the issue is with my current one when it gets returned to the distributer. It's been a tough journey and one I didn't expect to happen but it has but I'm sticking with it and don't want to have to move onto a different brand as I do love the sound the D2v brings to my system. It's worth pursuing.]

I have the same identical problem that you have with the HDMI outputs (No picture from 1 and severe video dropouts with 2). My problem started after 5 months of flawless performance. My Dv2 just started with dropouts on output 1 without any updates being performed, of course I immediately installed the latest firmware without any success I tried 3 different 10m HDMI cables to my projector with no change (during this time output 1 stopped functioning completely and output 2 performed with the continued constant dropouts) I contacted Anthem and despite all suggestions the problem remained. I sent my unit to them for inspection about two weeks ago and I'm waiting patiently for a response. They responded as if this was the 1st episode they had of such a malfunction and of course your notation of 2UNITS!!! with this problem is very troubling too me. There is something definitely wrong with the Anthems HDMI or video board because I hooked up a $100+ Sony HDMI receiver and everything I have works perfectly fine through its video inputs and output. I'm still waiting to hear from Anthem.
I wish you all the success in fixing your problem and pray Anthem comes up with the correct fix!
Sorry here is a list of my pertinent equipment: Component Equipment:
Anthem Statement D2v - PRE/PRO
Digital Sources:
OPPO BDP-83SE NuForce Edition (Bluray Universal Disc Player )
Sony PS3- Bluray disc Player and gamer
Toshiba HD-XA2- HD DVD player
SA 8300HD DVR- Cable box
DirecTV HD DVR20 (2)- Sat DVR's
XBOX 360
HT Video:
Stewart HDTV 133" electrosol Luxus A Ultramatte 150- FS
JVC RS-1 - Projector(1080P/24)

[b]DrJ
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post #30784 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orup70 View Post

Unfortunately, jitter seems to be almost a religious matter in the hifi world so I'm not completely convinced what to believe.

This hour long video addresses it and several other audio myths:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ

side topic - 5:15 - 8:00 nicely demonstrates how backwards other things have been since the quadrophonic days.

---------------------------

HDMI-out dropout problems:

There's the one unit that we recently recommended be sent here to be checked - it arrived on the 26th and had its video board replaced on the 27th. Feel free to contact us for status any time - tech@anthemav.com, or reply to your e-mail from Andrew or Piero, or call 905-362-0958, option 2.

Regarding the other two units, international distributors handle service but feel free to contact us directly regardless. We know nothing about the first one.

When we get a problem report, and this makes no difference who it comes from, we always start with the basics such as trying 8-bit output. From there the simple and common possibilities are eliminated step by step to determine the next one. Operators are standing by.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #30785 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 11:39 AM
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Hi all,

New owner of the AVM 50v and loving it! Quick q: not sure if this is the right forum, but figured I'd try. Any recommendations for a good <$1,500 phono stage (new or used) to go with the Anthem? Currently using a Simaudio LP3 with a VPI Classic, and looking to get more detail on the bottom and mids.
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post #30786 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jitenn View Post

Hi all,

New owner of the AVM 50v and loving it! Quick q: not sure if this is the right forum, but figured I'd try. Any recommendations for a good <$1,500 phono stage (new or used) to go with the Anthem? Currently using a Simaudio LP3 with a VPI Classic, and looking to get more detail on the bottom and mids.

There are several very good phono stages in this price range. I have the big brother to the LP3, the LP 5.3 and love it. Probably not unlike your LP3, it takes 150-200 hours to break in. I used a looping dedicated break in CD for the bulk of the task. The LP 5.3 has balanced outputs which I connect through my D2v's balanced 2-ch inputs. I recently just added the companion outboard power supply the PSX 5.3 and can appreciate the improvement - deeper soundstage and more separation between instruments. The two together is over your $1500 budget but I can certainly recommend the LP 5.3 alone. It is being supereceded by another model the LP310. You might be able to find an LP 5.3 on Audiogon or on clearance.
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post #30787 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 01:11 PM
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Hey everyone,

I posted this about a month back but I still am struggling with this. I use my D1 for 2.1 ch music only and I want to use the 2 ch balanced. I have everything connected correctly (I think) - balanced out of DAC>2 ch. in on D1>balance out of D1 to the amps and sub.

I went into the menu for 2 ch. BAL and changed it to AnalogDSP and it is fuzzier than all get out. I switched to AnalogDIR and it is clear as a bell. I went into the menus and made sure all of the levels were 0 b/c my buddy had the same thing but noticed his input level was really high - when he moved it to 0 it was perfect. At this point I have it connected RCA analogDSP for CD as well and it is clear as well but this is not my preferred connection b/c it is a little more precise/focused using the XLR.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,

Jeff
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post #30788 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post


This hour long video addresses it and several other audio myths:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ

side topic - 5:15 - 8:00 nicely demonstrates how backwards other things have been since the quadrophonic days.

---------------------------

HDMI-out dropout problems:

There's the one unit that we recently recommended be sent here to be checked - it arrived on the 26th and had its video board replaced on the 27th. Feel free to contact us for status any time - tech@anthemav.com, or reply to your e-mail from Andrew or Piero, or call 905-362-0958, option 2.

Regarding the other two units, international distributors handle service but feel free to contact us directly regardless. We know nothing about the first one.

When we get a problem report, and this makes no difference who it comes from, we always start with the basics such as trying 8-bit output. From there the simple and common possibilities are eliminated step by step to determine the next one. Operators are standing by.

Very cool to see the folks at Anthem respond to issues in real time on this forum. Thanks for the confidence booster Nick as I am about to pull the trigger on one of your units.
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post #30789 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb5200 View Post

Hey everyone,

I posted this about a month back but I still am struggling with this. I use my D1 for 2.1 ch music only and I want to use the 2 ch balanced. I have everything connected correctly (I think) - balanced out of DAC>2 ch. in on D1>balance out of D1 to the amps and sub.

I went into the menu for 2 ch. BAL and changed it to AnalogDSP and it is fuzzier than all get out. I switched to AnalogDIR and it is clear as a bell. I went into the menus and made sure all of the levels were 0 b/c my buddy had the same thing but noticed his input level was really high - when he moved it to 0 it was perfect. At this point I have it connected RCA analogDSP for CD as well and it is clear as well but this is not my preferred connection b/c it is a little more precise/focused using the XLR.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff,
I have my Ayre cdp hooked up to my D2 via xlr and it works fine. So should yours. The only difference I hear between Analog-dsp or direct is the loss of bass and ARC. IMHO, mine sounds significantly better in analog-dsp because of ARC and added bass. It shouldn't sound fuzzy.
You will need to use analog-dsp in order to use the bass management in the D1. It sounds as if you have it set correctly, but please check a couple of settings.

Are you using ARC, or setting the speakers and crossovers yourself? Make sure youre speaker configuations are set correctly for movie and music. For music you will need fronts and sub only. Your cross-overs should be set accordingly for your speakers.

Make sure your 'source preset' for 2-ch is for 'stereo' and not some multi-channel setting like DTS music.

Make sure that you have chosen 'music' and not 'movie' or 'auto lfe' in the 2-ch souce set-up.

FWIW I have my 2-ch set to -6 in the 'analog input level' section since the balanced connection runs a little higher.


You mention that you are running balanced into the D1 from your dac.
Are you running a cdp into the dac with balanced or rca? Or a computer via usb to the dac?
If you are running a cdp to your dac and you have balanced out on the cdp, have you tried bypassing the dac and going balanced in directly from the cdp to the D1?

Is there a way you can check your dac by connecting it to another pre/pro or receiver at a freinds house or A/V store? It is possible that the problem could be the balanced circuity in the dac and not the D1. This could rule out a problem with the dac's balanced circuity.

Are there settings in your dac that could affect the balanced output, and if so are they set correctly?

Bottom line is your D1 should sound as good or better with a balanced connection from your dac. It is pssible ther is a problem with the D1's balanced cicuity, but unlikely. Its possible that there is a problem with your dac's balanced circuity, but unlikely. Most likely a simple setting error.

Good luck,
Tom

"You can have my remote when you pry it from my cold dead fingers" tngiloy
Anthem D2v;Anthem A5;Golden Ear Aon3,SuperCenter XL,SuperSat3;SVS SB13 Plus x 2;Oppo BDP-103D;Ayre CX-7eMP;Panasonic plasma; Dish Hopper;PS Audio Power Plant 5- Subject to change without prior notification.
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post #30790 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 04:46 PM
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Sorry if this has been asked and answered. I have searched this thread and the user manual without luck.

Can the D2v simultaneously support the output of one video source and a different audio source -- say SAT for video while audio comes from DVD or CD...

- when using HDMI?
- When using analog inputs?

Thanks
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post #30791 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 04:51 PM
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When we get a problem report, and this makes no difference who it comes from, we always start with the basics such as trying 8-bit output. From there the simple and common possibilities are eliminated step by step to determine the next one. Operators are standing by.

Thanks for that. I have received an e-mail from one of your support guys and he suggested the 8bit but I had already covered that having dealt with this issue with my first unit and ran out of ideas but obviously he doesn't know my history. I haven't however heard anything back after I sent him my serial number early yesterday of my current unit. As you know I've spent quite a bit of time eliminating everything I can possibley think of but to no avail...it has to be the Anthem.

Nick has anything changed in relation to Anthem's supplier of the boards? Clearly going by my experiences and now KIDSMD1 now having the same issues something may have changed. My brother's has worked flawlessly since he purchased his earlier this year but for me to go through 2 units within a month is just crazy for this sort of level of equipment. Can I be so unlucky that 2 units are both faulty?

I have faith in this product but it's really strectching it now that this has happened to me twice and spending far too much time personally trying to rule things out and testing when after doing this the answer has to be the D2v being at fault as it's the only thing that's changed in my setup. It's costing me a bit as I'm doubting that it's the D2v and it's something else so I've spent $189 on a new HDMI cable (15m) and new USB-RS-232 cable $54 etc. I've sent the seller that sold me my Oppo BD-83 explaining the situation and in the 4 years of them selling Oppo's there've never heard of one shorting out an HDMI input. Unfortunatly this is a very long process when you have to personally rule every component out as one has to think that a processer this good can't be at fault,considering how many happy owners there are on this forum.

Sorry for the rant but I just want a D2v to be perfect so I can actually sit back and enjoy the purchase but so far it's been a nightmare. Thank you KIDSMD1 for sharing your experience as that now has confirmed it's not my other equipment it's the Anthem. Please Nick can we get to the bottom of this ASAP.
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post #30792 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulF View Post

Sorry if this has been asked and answered. I have searched this thread and the user manual without luck.

Can the D2v simultaneously support the output of one video source and a different audio source -- say SAT for video while audio comes from DVD or CD...

- when using HDMI?
- When using analog inputs?

Thanks

See "Simucast" in the manual (4.4.2 in D2 manual). One of the connections has to be analogue.
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post #30793 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

See "Simucast" in the manual (4.4.2 in D2 manual). One of the connections has to be analogue.

Thanks, I must have scanned right over it. This will do what I need. I just need to run an extra analog audio cable from my Blu-Ray player. No biggie.
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post #30794 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulF View Post

Sorry if this has been asked and answered. I have searched this thread and the user manual without luck.

Can the D2v simultaneously support the output of one video source and a different audio source -- say SAT for video while audio comes from DVD or CD...

- when using HDMI?
- When using analog inputs?

Thanks

Yes, in fact it's easy. You can set up a Source definition to do just that or use the "Simulcast" feature to do that on the fly.

EXCEPT: You can't combine audio from an HDMI source with video from any other source. The reason is that HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI video (even if that's just a black screen from an "audio only" HDMI source). That means the HDMI signal has to be "processed" to extract the audio from the video, and that's done by the video processor.

There is only one video processor in the D2v, so if it is busy extracting the audio from some HDMI source it can't also process the video from some other source.
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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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post #30795 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

See "Simucast" in the manual (4.4.2 in D2 manual). One of the connections has to be analogue.

It's less restrictive than that. The correct statement is that the audio signal can not be on HDMI if you want to mix distinct audio/video sources.

So for example you can combine an HDMI video signal from one source device with an optical digital audio signal from some other source device.

But you can't combine an HDMI audio signal with video coming in on anything other than that very same HDMI cable.
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post #30796 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

Thanks for that. I have received an e-mail from one of your support guys and he suggested the 8bit but I had already covered that having dealt with this issue with my first unit and ran out of ideas but obviously he doesn't know my history. I haven't however heard anything back after I sent him my serial number early yesterday of my current unit. As you know I've spent quite a bit of time eliminating everything I can possibley think of but to no avail...it has to be the Anthem.

Nick has anything changed in relation to Anthem's supplier of the boards? Clearly going by my experiences and now KIDSMD1 now having the same issues something may have changed. My brother's has worked flawlessly since he purchased his earlier this year but for me to go through 2 units within a month is just crazy for this sort of level of equipment. Can I be so unlucky that 2 units are both faulty?

I have faith in this product but it's really strectching it now that this has happened to me twice and spending far too much time personally trying to rule things out and testing when after doing this the answer has to be the D2v being at fault as it's the only thing that's changed in my setup. It's costing me a bit as I'm doubting that it's the D2v and it's something else so I've spent $189 on a new HDMI cable (15m) and new USB-RS-232 cable $54 etc. I've sent the seller that sold me my Oppo BD-83 explaining the situation and in the 4 years of them selling Oppo's there've never heard of one shorting out an HDMI input. Unfortunatly this is a very long process when you have to personally rule every component out as one has to think that a processer this good can't be at fault,considering how many happy owners there are on this forum.

Sorry for the rant but I just want a D2v to be perfect so I can actually sit back and enjoy the purchase but so far it's been a nightmare. Thank you KIDSMD1 for sharing your experience as that now has confirmed it's not my other equipment it's the Anthem. Please Nick can we get to the bottom of this ASAP.

Simon, I'm sorry to hear you are having a repeat problem. The odds of this being two video board failures are pretty slim. It could happen, but your first thought should be that there is something else going on here.

My inclination would be to investigate the mechanical connection you are using for HDMI 1. Is it a bad plug that's damaging the socket? Is it the weight of the cable that's levering the socket loose from the PC board?

You are already acting on my second thought, which is that the cable to your projector is marginal in some way.

Now of course there is still a possibility that you were so unfortunate as to get two lemon units in a row. But it really is worth looking at the other possible causes.

If you can't get HDMI video now from HDMI 1, even using a short cable to a display, then yep that HDMI socket is dead. The trick is to figure out WHY that happened. Twice.
--Bob

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post #30797 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:23 PM
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Tom,

Thanks for the tips. I have a computer connected to my DAC with coax in using a hiface. I did check to make sure that the mode was in stereo - I checked just about every menu setting and and no luck.

The weird thing is when I put it on AnalogDIR it is perfect, as soon as I change it to AnalogDSP it is super fuzzy like something isn't connected right.

I did run ARC and left all of those settings the same so I will try the menus again.

This happened to my buddy when he got his and we went through all the menus and found one of the input levels was high and we put it to 0 and it was fixed. But like I said I checked all the levels and they were 0.

I am going to try running ARC again to see if that helps anything but I don't see how that will. I am at a loss!

Thanks again Tom!
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post #30798 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:24 PM
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Bob, you asked earlier about guys who charts are showing up ~60db, here are my charts which are centered ~61db. Level was set to 75 db before calibration & sub adjusted properly. A digital sound meter was used, I brought another new one home from work today, a different model & measured similar results to the first meter. When I check my ARC calibrated levels, I get around 72db on my sound meter. As for loudness level after ARC, it appears to be "normal"

What are everyones thoughts on the charts? I know my sub is an issue, as it rolls off much to quickly but as the system is currently in a bedroom, I don't have alot of choice on sub size & placement (SVS SB-12 plus). I know that ~125hz dip in the left front is also an issue but I can't do much with placement. The speakers are about the best I can do, with the room but I got a new bed that's 30" tall & this seems to be part of my issue. The system will be moved to another room in the future.

For the surround's, their on-wall speakers that are currently sitting on not so great stands (they need to be filled I think) till I get them properly mounted. I was hoping once mouted properly their bottom end will be better but currently it looks like I can change the crossover from 110 to 100 or maybe 95 with descent results. I haven't played much as their not in their correct spot.
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #30799 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb5200 View Post

Hey everyone,

I posted this about a month back but I still am struggling with this. I use my D1 for 2.1 ch music only and I want to use the 2 ch balanced. I have everything connected correctly (I think) - balanced out of DAC>2 ch. in on D1>balance out of D1 to the amps and sub.

I went into the menu for 2 ch. BAL and changed it to AnalogDSP and it is fuzzier than all get out. I switched to AnalogDIR and it is clear as a bell. I went into the menus and made sure all of the levels were 0 b/c my buddy had the same thing but noticed his input level was really high - when he moved it to 0 it was perfect. At this point I have it connected RCA analogDSP for CD as well and it is clear as well but this is not my preferred connection b/c it is a little more precise/focused using the XLR.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff, it sounds to me like you have a hardware failure in the circuit path that digitizes that 2-Channel balanced input. Try this: Get some simple RCA to XLR adapters and run RCA from your player through those into the XLR inputs on the Anthem. Does it still sound screwed up? If so then that XLR input needs service.

Now be aware that XLR, by design, has a different voltage (volume) level from RCA. So you may need to adjust the analog audio input level (in Setup menu) for the 2-Channel input if your source is putting out different voltage from what it expects. But the fact that things sound OK using Analog-Direct suggests that isn't the problem.
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post #30800 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by daren_p View Post

Bob, you asked earlier about guys who charts are showing up ~60db, here are my charts which are centered ~61db. Level was set to 75 db before calibration & sub adjusted properly. A digital sound meter was used, I brought another new one home from work today, a different model & measured similar results to the first meter. When I check my ARC calibrated levels, I get around 72db on my sound meter. As for loudness level after ARC, it appears to be "normal"

What are everyones thoughts on the charts? I know my sub is an issue, as it rolls off much to quickly but as the system is currently in a bedroom, I don't have alot of choice on sub size & placement (SVS SB-12 plus). I know that ~125hz dip in the left front is also an issue but I can't do much with placement. The speakers are about the best I can do, with the room but I got a new bed that's 30" tall & this seems to be part of my issue. The system will be moved to another room in the future.

For the surround's, their on-wall speakers that are currently sitting on not so great stands (they need to be filled I think) till I get them properly mounted. I was hoping once mouted properly their bottom end will be better but currently it looks like I can change the crossover from 110 to 100 or maybe 95 with descent results. I haven't played much as their not in their correct spot.

I think the evidence is building that we have just another chart error. I.e., the shape of the chart curves is correct, but the volume level being reported is wrong.

I've got no idea why only some folks are seeing this.

-------------------------------

As to your results, it looks like the sub is too small for the room, thus the inability to go below 30Hz. For your Music configuration, even though your fronts can do just about as well as your sub (from the chart), I think you might still be better off leaving the sub in the configuration as it most likely can do better down there when the volume goes up.

For the 125Hz dip, try lowering Room Gain a bit as that will decrease the hump near the crossover frequencies. You could easily lower it 1/2 dB without hearing a difference. You might hear a 1 dB decrease, but if that gets you a clean solution that might be better.
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post #30801 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

I have a theater with 2 rows of seats (3 chairs in each row). The seats in the back are on a 12" riser. I'm about to load ARC 3.0 (D2) and was wondering about the mic placement for the rear seats. Should I put the mic at the same height as the front row or should I put it up on the riser with the mic sitting at the same height as the rear chairs?
I should add that I have a 7.2 speaker system with 2 speakers in the rear.


TIA,
Ken

My recommendation is that you set the mic height to seated ear height for each row (i.e., different heights).
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post #30802 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

Well that's what happended with me (sort of) as well when it got to the last part of uploading the parameters (yours gets past mine) got less than half way and then my laptop got the blue screen then rebooted. The D2v doesn't do anything so I turned it off from the front panel but 2 lights were still on so had to turn it off via the power switch at the back of the unit. As mentioned when I started up ARC again and loaded the file it saved after the calibration it sucessfully uploaded it. But 9/10 times when I run ARC for the first time it does the above, no idea why and I should have taken a screen shot of the error code windows displayed after it rebooted as it produced a report showing the error. I went to the Event log but it wasn't there which sucks as I could have sent that to Anthem tech support.

I've sent Anthem a detailed event message explaining my situation so hopefully they can resolve this as I just don't believe it's anything I'm doing. It's relatively simple procedure running ARC and uploading it as it all automated. I made sure that my comport had all the correct settings as per Anthem which was saved anyway from using it with the last unit , but I always double check just in case anything has changed. The laptop always finds the D2v no problem.

I have purchased a new 15m HDMI cable to replace the 12m one that is currently connecting the projector to the Anthem which was done just over 4 years ago. I still don't believe it's cable related as the unit was working perfectly for a week.

I suggest you use the Manual mode with ARC. This lets you decide separately to do a Measurement, a Calculation, and an Upload.

After you get a good Measurement, save the file and then go back into ARC, do your Calculation, with any tweaking, and then do the Upload.

The automatic ARC process that does each in turn should work of course, but doing the steps separately might help work around whatever resource constraint or bug in your laptop is preventing the Upload from completing normally.
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post #30803 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I think the evidence is building that we have just another chart error. I.e., the shape of the chart curves is correct, but the volume level being reported is wrong.

I've got no idea why only some folks are seeing this.

-------------------------------

As to your results, it looks like the sub is too small for the room, thus the inability to go below 30Hz. For your Music configuration, even though your fronts can do just about as well as your sub (from the chart), I think you might still be better off leaving the sub in the configuration as it most likely can do better down there when the volume goes up.

For the 125Hz dip, try lowering Room Gain a bit as that will decrease the hump near the crossover frequencies. You could easily lower it 1/2 dB without hearing a difference. You might hear a 1 dB decrease, but if that gets you a clean solution that might be better.
--Bob


Thanks for the input Bob. I only have about two spots I can put the sub, the posted chart is actually with the sub in the corner but there's furniture that's ~15" tall , about 2' infront of the sub so that may not be helping things (sealed, front firing). The other spot is closer to the middle of the room, it may have actually not rolled off quite as much (did my origional ARC 2.4 with it in the other position) but it doesn't seem to be night & day difference when comparing charts (ie maybe a db difference). I may switch back to the other spot & try again.

I wouldn't think the room is too large as its on the small side approx 13x14x8, I would think the sub should pressurize the room but it doesn't appear to be doing so.

As for running the sub with 2 channel music, I've tried & defently don't get the results I get with just the two towers. While ARC has done a great job at integrating the sub, it still doesn't offer the quality, speed, detail & tone in the bottom end the towers do by themselves. I've switched back & forth & while the sub may offer a db or two more in the lower end, its not worth the trade off in quality & in most music its not even noticeable or only noticeable on certain songs if you switch back & forth. My towers have 4 7" drivers in each cabinet & have never been close to running out of steam, the more you turn them up, the better they sound Not my normal choice of music but you can put on a hiphop/rap etc song with very heavy bass & crank it up as loud as you want, to the point where everythings shaking & you still won't get a hint of any strain from the towers

On the 125hz dip, room gain was actually something I was going to play with. I do like my bottom end but like you say I might be able to bring it down a touch, to help out the dip & not notice the reduced gain. I was also curious if reducing the room gain some would increase the very bottom end with freeing up some of ARC's resources (or atleast sound like its increasing the very bottom end as the mid low-bass wouldn't be as strong)
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My inclination would be to investigate the mechanical connection you are using for HDMI 1. Is it a bad plug that's damaging the socket? Is it the weight of the cable that's levering the socket loose from the PC board?

Thanks Bob. When I received the second unit the first thing I did was purchase 5 XLR interconnects so I would get a solid connection b/w the power amp and the Anthem. Then I made sure that there was sufficient slack for both HDMI connectors, one from the Oppo (1m) and one from the Projector and they were not pulling down in any way or causing a bend. I was very careful when I conencted them (also did this with the first unit), and the HDMI inputs are at the top of the D2v which is great as it's each cable doesn't have to bend that much. What I am going to do when i take out the existing Anthem is cut the current hole in the back of the lowline unit and make it bigger on both sides so that both cables don't bend at all and go in straight. To be honest I've had 2 other units before the Anthem (NAD T-175 and Onyko SR-805) and never had an issue and I've used the same HDMI cable that I always have from the projector plus both units were in the same shelf as the D2v.

As far as I'm concerned both HDMI connections were firm and showed no signs of bending. Thanks for suggesting the manual ARC method, I will try that when I get the 2nd replacement unit.
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post #30805 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

Thanks Bob. When I received the second unit the first thing I did was purchase 5 XLR interconnects so I would get a solid connection b/w the power amp and the Anthem. Then I made sure that there was sufficient slack for both HDMI connectors, one from the Oppo (1m) and one from the Projector and they were not pulling down in any way or causing a bend. I was very careful when I conencted them (also did this with the first unit), and the HDMI inputs are at the top of the D2v which is great as it's each cable doesn't have to bend that much. What I am going to do when i take out the existing Anthem is cut the current hole in the back of the lowline unit and make it bigger on both sides so that both cables don't bend at all and go in straight. To be honest I've had 2 other units before the Anthem (NAD T-175 and Onyko SR-805) and never had an issue and I've used the same HDMI cable that I always have from the projector plus both units were in the same shelf as the D2v.

As far as I'm concerned both HDMI connections were firm and showed no signs of bending. Thanks for suggesting the manual ARC method, I will try that when I get the 2nd replacement unit.

Assuming there really is an external cause to these two failures, the only other thing I can think of is that you have a ground loop which is sending voltage from the projector to the D2v along the cable shield of the HDMI cable and somehow frying that HDMI output. Or it could be going the other way: I.e., that some other device is sending faulty ground garbage into the D2v on a cable shield which is then finding a path back to ground (to complete the circuit and let current flow) via the HDMI cable to the projector -- again frying that HDMI output.

Do you have any signs at all of ground loop problems? Typical symptoms would be hum, even at a very low level, from the speakers, or horizontal interference lines in video.

These are not very likely failure scenarios, but then the odds of getting two failed video boards in a row is also not very likely.
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post #30806 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by daren_p View Post

Thanks for the input Bob. I only have about two spots I can put the sub, the posted chart is actually with the sub in the corner but there's furniture that's ~15" tall , about 2' infront of the sub so that may not be helping things (sealed, front firing). The other spot is closer to the middle of the room, it may have actually not rolled off quite as much (did my origional ARC 2.4 with it in the other position) but it doesn't seem to be night & day difference when comparing charts (ie maybe a db difference). I may switch back to the other spot & try again.

I wouldn't think the room is too large as its on the small side approx 13x14x8, I would think the sub should pressurize the room but it doesn't appear to be doing so.

As for running the sub with 2 channel music, I've tried & defently don't get the results I get with just the two towers. While ARC has done a great job at integrating the sub, it still doesn't offer the quality, speed, detail & tone in the bottom end the towers do by themselves. I've switched back & forth & while the sub may offer a db or two more in the lower end, its not worth the trade off in quality & in most music its not even noticeable or only noticeable on certain songs if you switch back & forth. My towers have 4 7" drivers in each cabinet & have never been close to running out of steam, the more you turn them up, the better they sound Not my normal choice of music but you can put on a hiphop/rap etc song with very heavy bass & crank it up as loud as you want, to the point where everythings shaking & you still won't get a hint of any strain from the towers

On the 125hz dip, room gain was actually something I was going to play with. I do like my bottom end but like you say I might be able to bring it down a touch, to help out the dip & not notice the reduced gain. I was also curious if reducing the room gain some would increase the very bottom end with freeing up some of ARC's resources (or atleast sound like its increasing the very bottom end as the mid low-bass wouldn't be as strong)

Before you reject using the sub for music, double check that the Polarity and Phase settings are correct for the sub so that you aren't getting phase cancellation through the cross-over region where both the sub and the main speakers are producing the same audio. This is a step you have to do manually. ARC can't do it as it doesn't hear the sub and the mains playing at the same time.

See the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread for some guidance.
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post #30807 of 43027 Old 11-02-2010, 10:02 PM
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Do you have any signs at all of ground loop problems? Typical symptoms would be hum, even at a very low level, from the speakers, or horizontal interference lines in video.

Just on a month now I had a electrician install 2 dedicated 20A circuits with filtering via a module on the main power board and that is what the D2v is plugged into as well as my Oppo via a Thor PS10 power center. Now I do have a slight hum from the Thor itself which I've always found odd as my brother who owns the newer version of it doesn't hum. I've taken the Thor out now and I'm using an Ear Science Powerbox (locally made) power board which I know is a very good product refer to link. I have the the one in the pic and the newer one as well:

http://www.carltonaudiovisual.com.au/?q=node/view/282


I'm going to call Thor and see if they will service or at least have a look at my Thor unit and see if it's that. The sparky said that I would no longer need to run anything into a power board as that is what the filtering module is for on the main board but I do just to be sure. I'm trying to blame all the other things which is normal and I understand what your saying about having 2 faulty Anthems but I've had the NAD plugged into the Thor for ages (before upgrading to the D2v) and never had an issue and if i was getting this power surge via the projector ,then the NAD would have suffered but it didn't. Plus the projector has never missed a beat and shows no horizontal interference lines at all.
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post #30808 of 43027 Old 11-03-2010, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by daren_p View Post

Thanks for the input Bob. I only have about two spots I can put the sub, the posted chart is actually with the sub in the corner but there's furniture that's ~15" tall , about 2' infront of the sub so that may not be helping things (sealed, front firing). The other spot is closer to the middle of the room, it may have actually not rolled off quite as much (did my origional ARC 2.4 with it in the other position) but it doesn't seem to be night & day difference when comparing charts (ie maybe a db difference). I may switch back to the other spot & try again.

I wouldn't think the room is too large as its on the small side approx 13x14x8, I would think the sub should pressurize the room but it doesn't appear to be doing so.

As for running the sub with 2 channel music, I've tried & defently don't get the results I get with just the two towers. While ARC has done a great job at integrating the sub, it still doesn't offer the quality, speed, detail & tone in the bottom end the towers do by themselves. I've switched back & forth & while the sub may offer a db or two more in the lower end, its not worth the trade off in quality & in most music its not even noticeable or only noticeable on certain songs if you switch back & forth. My towers have 4 7" drivers in each cabinet & have never been close to running out of steam, the more you turn them up, the better they sound Not my normal choice of music but you can put on a hiphop/rap etc song with very heavy bass & crank it up as loud as you want, to the point where everythings shaking & you still won't get a hint of any strain from the towers

On the 125hz dip, room gain was actually something I was going to play with. I do like my bottom end but like you say I might be able to bring it down a touch, to help out the dip & not notice the reduced gain. I was also curious if reducing the room gain some would increase the very bottom end with freeing up some of ARC's resources (or atleast sound like its increasing the very bottom end as the mid low-bass wouldn't be as strong)

You could use the quick measure function to get a look at your sub in the two positions. You need to use manual operation of ARC 3.0 and it's under the tools menu. This will display the response in real time of the sub as you move it around. Once you choose the spot you'll have to do the phase and polarity adjustment. This does change your settings for speaker config so you will have to upload a ARC result after doing this measure.
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post #30809 of 43027 Old 11-03-2010, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

Just on a month now I had a electrician install 2 dedicated 20A circuits with filtering via a module on the main power board and that is what the D2v is plugged into as well as my Oppo via a Thor PS10 power center. Now I do have a slight hum from the Thor itself which I've always found odd as my brother who owns the newer version of it doesn't hum. I've taken the Thor out now and I'm using an Ear Science Powerbox (locally made) power board which I know is a very good product refer to link. I have the the one in the pic and the newer one as well:

http://www.carltonaudiovisual.com.au/?q=node/view/282


I'm going to call Thor and see if they will service or at least have a look at my Thor unit and see if it's that. The sparky said that I would no longer need to run anything into a power board as that is what the filtering module is for on the main board but I do just to be sure. I'm trying to blame all the other things which is normal and I understand what your saying about having 2 faulty Anthems but I've had the NAD plugged into the Thor for ages (before upgrading to the D2v) and never had an issue and if i was getting this power surge via the projector ,then the NAD would have suffered but it didn't. Plus the projector has never missed a beat and shows no horizontal interference lines at all.

not sure where the display is plugged in to the A/C
as Bob said it could be a ground loop
if the HDMI output is being fried then it would be between the D2v and the display
you say you had new A/C installed a month ago - is that when the 1st D2v died, or was it before that?
i'm with Bob on this one, it might be 2 defective D2v's, but i suspect a mechanical or electrical issue 1st

mark
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post #30810 of 43027 Old 11-03-2010, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jb5200 View Post

Tom,

Thanks for the tips. I have a computer connected to my DAC with coax in using a hiface. I did check to make sure that the mode was in stereo - I checked just about every menu setting and and no luck.

The weird thing is when I put it on AnalogDIR it is perfect, as soon as I change it to AnalogDSP it is super fuzzy like something isn't connected right.I did run ARC and left all of those settings the same so I will try the menus again.

This happened to my buddy when he got his and we went through all the menus and found one of the input levels was high and we put it to 0 and it was fixed. But like I said I checked all the levels and they were 0.

I am going to try running ARC again to see if that helps anything but I don't see how that will. I am at a loss!

Thanks again Tom!

The only thing different between Analog DSP and AnalogDIR in your setup is ARC.
I think a re-run and/or a new upload of ARC is an excellent idea.
If your system sounded good for a while after your last ARC upload, but later sounded bad in AnalogDSP, then a new upload of ARC may be all that is needed.
If it has sounded bad since your last ARC run, then I would do new measurements and a new upload.
ARC is a software program and software can get corrupted. Its worth a try for sure.
I would also do a new download of ARC from the Anthem website before running a new ARC just to be sure that is uncorrupted.


Tom

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