Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1079 - AVS Forum
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post #32341 of 43405 Old 02-07-2011, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jayray View Post

Do you notice any diff in the charts pre and post v.3.01?
John

I didn't really study the differerence between my old charts and the new ones with 3.01, and I have already deleted the old files and charts. However, from memory I don't think my new charts look much different.
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post #32342 of 43405 Old 02-07-2011, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlbrand View Post


I didn't really study the differerence between my old charts and the new ones with 3.01, and I have already deleted the old files and charts. However, from memory I don't think my new charts look much different.

I noticed better correction with dips on my speakers and better low freq. correction on my sub. The consensus is v.3.01 was a substantial improvement.
John

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post #32343 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 05:23 AM
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I guess I was spoiled as my first ARC measurements were done with 3.01. In your opinion, what improvements could be made with another updated version of ARC?
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post #32344 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benleeys View Post

If your sub has both LFE and line level inputs, it should be perfectly fine to connect both at the same time without any damage. I have a Martin Logan Descent-i sub and it also has these inputs featured.

Your sub manual should have instructions on this issue.

Ben

Thanks Ben. I have a Focal Chorus sub and the manual does not tell me much. Trying to find out from Focal directly.
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post #32345 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xMEATx View Post

I guess I was spoiled as my first ARC measurements were done with 3.01. In your opinion, what improvements could be made with another updated version of ARC?

Mine sounds so good now I can't imagine what else they could do
John

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post #32346 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdc View Post

So what does this mean exactly? As I recall the CalMan software works with a number of devices, is this true? Or would I need to specify a calibrator that uses CalMan?

The following is a quote from my calibrator who is very familiar with CALMAN.

"It means that things like brightness and contrast and the other user controls are controllable from my laptop versus having to struggle through the anthem remote. Does it change anything for you? No. All the good stuff is done at the projector end of things and done well. The anthem comes in if there was something we could not fix or get right. The Calman V4 is getting control functionality over a whole bunch of displays and processors."
John

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post #32347 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 09:28 AM
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http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support

This is the same as sending an e-mail to tech@anthemav.com except that e-mail has a spam filter which can on occasion remove wanted messages from newly seen sender addresses.

phone:
(+1) 905-362-0958, option 2

This is more effective for new issues than trying to contact an individual's extension. Off-peak hours are midweek, midday. If all lines are busy, almost guaranteed on Monday mornings and Friday afternoons, simply leave a voice message including your inquiry and someone will reply at earliest opportunity.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #32348 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

The following is a quote from my calibrator who is very familiar with CALMAN.

"It means that things like brightness and contrast and the other user controls are controllable from my laptop versus having to struggle through the anthem remote. Does it change anything for you? No. All the good stuff is done at the projector end of things and done well. The anthem comes in if there was something we could not fix or get right. The Calman V4 is getting control functionality over a whole bunch of displays and processors."
John

All true - an external processor is to be used when the projector doesn't have adequate control, for example 10-point gamma correction.

To clarify what recently released CalMAN v4 is about, it's basically a video version of automatic room eq. A measurement instrument with known parameters talks to the PC which inturn talks to the processor to adjust output accordingly. CalMAN always did that except that with v4 it's automated. With previous versions there was a lot of trial and error, like manually adjusting an equalizer and testing again after each manual adjustment, until hitting the bullseye.

Does this mean anything for the end user? Not really, in my opinion, but it's nice for the professional calibrator. If you have tens of thousands of dollars to spend on measurement equipment and a serially-controllable test pattern generator, and the time to take ISF, THX, and/or SMPTE courses then you can become your own pro calibrator but for most people I'd recommend hiring someone to set up the system.

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post #32349 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 10:31 AM
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I have ARC for my D2v along with a SUB 15. Is the PBK kit worth purchasing or do you only want to use PBK if you don't have ARC? If they are both intended to work together, which do you run first? Does anybody have any comment including the process/steps to execute ARC and PBK assuming they are intended to work together. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.
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post #32350 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

I have ARC for my D2v along with a SUB 15. Is the PBK kit worth purchasing or do you only want to use PBK if you don't have ARC? If they are both intended to work together, which do you run first? Does anybody have any comment including the process/steps to execute ARC and PBK assuming they are intended to work together. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.

They can be used together only if needed. Do a quick measure with your sub and see if it is a good location. If so, just use ARC. If not a good spot, move your sub until quick measure says it's a good spot. Then run ARC. Depending on the best measure you get, PBK can be used first and then run ARC but post your Charts so people can give you some suggestions. PBK is just a version of ARC for subs.
John

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post #32351 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

Mine sounds so good now I can't imagine what else they could do
John

Jayray,
I am still using ARC 3.0. Do you think ACR 3.01 is good improvement above 3.0?
I just don't want to do ARC again for something not noticible.

Thanks,
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post #32352 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

Jayray,
I am still using ARC 3.0. Do you think ACR 3.01 is good improvement above 3.0?
I just don't want to do ARC again for something not noticible.

Thanks,

I can't even remember the diff b/t these versions or even if there is much. Just read the release notes for 3.0 and then for 3.01.
John

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post #32353 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 01:47 PM
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Thanks, I've attached my latest mesaurement/uploaded charts. Note, I changed the Frequency from the default of 5000 to 20000. I uploaded these to my D2V after running ARC 3.01 in the default 5 position.

As far as the PBK kit, will it work on my SUB15 (one of the first ones to be made) seeing as I only have a USB port. In other words, it's not a USB port that specifically denotes PBK on the back of the sub.

Trying to check with Paradigm on this also. In the meantime, any comments on my charts would be appreciated.
LL
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post #32354 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Thanks, I've attached my latest mesaurement/uploaded charts. Note, I changed the Frequency from the default of 5000 to 20000. I uploaded these to my D2V after running ARC 3.01 in the default 5 position.

As far as the PBK kit, will it work on my SUB15 (one of the first ones to be made) seeing as I only have a USB port. In other words, it's not a USB port that specifically denotes PBK on the back of the sub.

Trying to check with Paradigm on this also. In the meantime, any comments on my charts would be appreciated.

the sub 15 works with PBK. the usb port on the back is for PBK. Your sub has a DSP in it that is required for PBK. Anthem recommends 5K as the upper freq for correction and most here have reverted to this with excellent results. Try moving your sub to see if you can get rid of the dip at 100 Hz. in the measured red curve. Try also changing in ARC the sub high pass to Flat from auto. Your sub is capable of going below 20 Hz. with good volume. Post the sub chart after you try some of these suggestions.
John
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post #32355 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

I can't even remember the diff b/t these versions or even if there is much. Just read the release notes for 3.0 and then for 3.01.
John

Thanks Jayray.
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post #32356 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 04:58 PM
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Ok,

Set the HPF to Flat and the Max EQ Freq to 5000. Reran the tests/calcs but the sub curve looks the same. I am not in a position to really move my sub either.

On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.

Thanks again.
LL
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post #32357 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Ok,

Set the HPF to Flat and the Max EQ Freq to 5000. Reran the tests/calcs but the sub curve looks the same. I am not in a position to really move my sub either.

On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.

Thanks again.

Leave the sub at flat. There is a slightly flatter curve below 20Hz. Leave the correction at 5000Hz. Now listen to something familiar with good LFE. Your other speakers look fine. Some tweaking can be done but for now just listen for a while.
John

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post #32358 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv View Post

Seems that the only adjustment is for analog inputs, so if its still an issue I'll switch to component and optical as there is no hd audio coming through the dish anyways.....

Thanks guys

Ofcourse, you could use HDMI for video and analog in for audio from the receiver. Are you sure that thre's no settin in the receiver that affects output volume?

Also, enabling Dolby Volume bumps up the volume siginificantly. I use this s the default settin for my cable box. A benefit is that is naturally helps level with those loud commercials to reasonable levels w/o affect the sound quality of your intended program you are watching.

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #32359 of 43405 Old 02-08-2011, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Ok,

Set the HPF to Flat and the Max EQ Freq to 5000. Reran the tests/calcs but the sub curve looks the same. I am not in a position to really move my sub either.

On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.

Thanks again.

MStanic, have you phase matched your subwoofer to the mains? If interested, read my post below for using the subs distance setting to do so:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630

You're wasting your time optimizing the rest of your speaker system if you haven't first phase matched the subwoofer to the mains.

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #32360 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 10:48 AM
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Hello,

I've tried the last 3 days to download the ARC 3.01 version but always get this message;

Quote:
The document is being edited/updated by a User and is unavailable at this moment
Anyone else having the same issue?

erikno
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post #32361 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikno View Post
Hello,

I've tried the last 3 days to download the ARC 3.01 version but always get this message;



Anyone else having the same issue?

erikno
There is this posting
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post #32362 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikno View Post

Hello,

I've tried the last 3 days to download the ARC 3.01 version but always get this message;

Anyone else having the same issue?

erikno

Use the file for the AVM 50v, they all use the same file. Only diff. is the manual will be for the AVM 50v.
John

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post #32363 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 11:37 AM
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Thanks!

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post #32364 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jayray View Post

Use the file for the AVM 50v, they all use the same file. Only diff. is the manual will be for the AVM 50v.
John

I believe that it asks you which model you have during installation (AVM,D2,MRX) and installs the proper manual.
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post #32365 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 11:45 AM
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Hopefully someone has some insight on my video issue. When watching DTV or media streamer (Dune Prime) through my AVM50v to my JVC X7, the picture stutters. All connections HDMI. This made the Superbowl un-watchable through the AVM. I had to go directly from sat box to projector. With the media streamer, the picture sometimes gets a slightly slow-motion look to it. I can hit pause/play and it is better for a while. Again, no issues with the streamer direct to the projector.
Is there a setting that I am missing? Any ideas?
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post #32366 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CerberusII View Post


I believe that it asks you which model you have during installation (AVM,D2,MRX) and installs the proper manual.

Either way it will work.
John

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post #32367 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Ofcourse, you could use HDMI for video and analog in for audio from the receiver. Are you sure that thre's no settin in the receiver that affects output volume?

Also, enabling Dolby Volume bumps up the volume siginificantly. I use this s the default settin for my cable box. A benefit is that is naturally helps level with those loud commercials to reasonable levels w/o affect the sound quality of your intended program you are watching.

Didn't think of running an optical from the Dish, nor have tried the Dolby Volume at all just yet, thats a good idea... What settings is everyone using on the DV for situations such as this....

Thanks Dmusoke...
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post #32368 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv View Post

Didn't think of running an optical from the Dish, nor have tried the Dolby Volume at all just yet, thats a good idea... What settings is everyone using on the DV for situations such as this....

Thanks Dmusoke...

I leave mine more or less at the standard settings.

Dolby Volume: Cinema Reference. This uses the most aggressive volume leveling.
Dolby level: 5 (9 is the default).
Half Mode: ON



- David

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #32369 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 02:44 PM
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Thanks David.... I'll give it a shot... Appreciate your help
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post #32370 of 43405 Old 02-09-2011, 06:54 PM
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Thanks, but I'm a little confused.

First off, I have set the speaker distances (from the main listening position to each speaker) and calibrated their levels to 75db prior to running ARC. Is this still the proper process prior to running ARC?

As far as the SUB, I'm not sure I follow regarding either method:

NULL Method:

1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).

2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.

3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.



PEAK Method:

1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.

Same steps 2-3 as above.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

Assuming I choose to follow the peak method, what is step 3 about? Play my noise source .. is this referring to the test tone generated by the D2v and how do I recognize the minimum reading? As well, is my SUB 15 set correctly to even try these steps based on the 3 settings I described earlier? These setting specifically:

On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.

Finally, setting the HPF to Flat, recalculating and uploading to my D2v completely killed my SUB sound. It was basically not even evident. I had to go back to HPF at Auto, recalc and upload to the D2v to get sub sound back again.

All this calibration stuff and there is still some very manual stuff that needs to get done outside of ARC and PBK it seems. Thank ALL, for your help and input.
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