Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1190 - AVS Forum
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post #35671 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 07:54 AM
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OK! I just do not understand why the crackling is gone now with ARC

I will follow your advice and get my speaker checked out.
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post #35672 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildZero View Post

OK! I just do not understand why the crackling is gone now with ARC

I will follow your advice and get my speaker checked out.

Loose connections can do the same thing
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post #35673 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 09:37 AM
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I have a D2V with firmware 2.10.

I am using a Pronto 9600 remore with the RFX9600 serial extender to control the D2V to get direct access to several commands and this has been working great for over a year until yesterday.

I am using Windows 7 64 bit home premium with a Keyspan usb-serial adapter.

Yesterday I was using Livevideosettingseditor which is in the utilities folder of the latest ARC download to create some custom resolutions. When I was done messing with this and plugged my serial cable back into the serial extender, I no longer can control the D2V with serial commands.

Using the same cable and connecting back to a computer I can update the firmware, backup settings, and launch the Livevideosettingseditor and communicate with the D2V, but not with the extender.

I also control my pioneer tv from the extender and that is working. I switched the D2V to that serial port and reconfigured the software to use that port which I know works to control the D2V and still nothing.

The regular remote works fine. Is there some way the serial port on the D2V is damaged from connecting/disconnecting cables? If it was damaged, I would assume no other device or software would work either.

Any suggestions of help on this to ensure I didn't change something in the D2V to disable the serial port remote control feature? Is there an easy way to user hyperterminal or something similar to test communication and a list of command syntax to do so.

I have reloaded the firmware, but to no avail. Are there other tools available to do testing and troubleshooting? I see reference to the SETUP EDITOR which is different than Livevideosettingseditor, but cannot find and do not have access to the secure page on Anthem to look. You can PM me the logon information if I can get a new firmware or software there to try out.
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post #35674 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoehne View Post

I have a D2V with firmware 2.10.

I am using a Pronto 9600 remore with the RFX9600 serial extender to control the D2V to get direct access to several commands and this has been working great for over a year until yesterday.

I am using Windows 7 64 bit home premium with a Keyspan usb-serial adapter.

Yesterday I was using Livevideosettingseditor which is in the utilities folder of the latest ARC download to create some custom resolutions. When I was done messing with this and plugged my serial cable back into the serial extender, I no longer can control the D2V with serial commands.

Using the same cable and connecting back to a computer I can update the firmware, backup settings, and launch the Livevideosettingseditor and communicate with the D2V, but not with the extender.

I also control my pioneer tv from the extender and that is working. I switched the D2V to that serial port and reconfigured the software to use that port which I know works to control the D2V and still nothing.

The regular remote works fine. Is there some way the serial port on the D2V is damaged from connecting/disconnecting cables? If it was damaged, I would assume no other device or software would work either.

Any suggestions of help on this to ensure I didn't change something in the D2V to disable the serial port remote control feature? Is there an easy way to user hyperterminal or something similar to test communication and a list of command syntax to do so.

I have reloaded the firmware, but to no avail. Are there other tools available to do testing and troubleshooting? I see reference to the SETUP EDITOR which is different than Livevideosettingseditor, but cannot find and do not have access to the secure page on Anthem to look. You can PM me the logon information if I can get a new firmware or software there to try out.

Check the RS-232 Settings portion of Setup in the D2v. Odds are you reconfigured something in there when doing a firmware install or using the Anthem utilities. The usual culprit is the RS-232 TX Status setting which is OFF by default but needs to be ON for some remote control systems to work properly. The Flow Control setting may be the other culprit. See Section 3.11 in the Manual.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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post #35675 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildZero View Post

OK! I just do not understand why the crackling is gone now with ARC

I will follow your advice and get my speaker checked out.

If the crackling was happening in either speaker A or B at the point when ARC was transitioning from sending sweep tones to speaker A and starting to send them to speaker B then you likely have nothing to worry about. Sometimes ARC doesn't completely mute things properly during the transition between speakers.

If on the other hand the crackling was happening DURING the sweep tones for a given speaker then the odds are excellent either the speaker has an internal problem or it has loose speaker wire connections.

It is not unusual that ARC would expose a speaker problem you don't hear during normal playback. Typically ARC sends deeper bass and higher treble to your speakers then they would normally see in real use. Deep bass can cause vibrations that show up loose connections. High treble can show broken tweeters. And since ARC sweeps through all frequencies you will also hear problems that only show up at certain mechanical resonance frequencies.

First check that all your speaker connections are tight -- Anthem to amp to speaker.

If that doesn't fix it, swap the outputs at the back of the Anthem between the problem speaker and any other speaker. If the crackling stays in the problem speaker, then the odds are excellent that speaker needs service.
--Bob

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post #35676 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkojevnikov View Post

Thank you Bob. First I will try to buy a pair of better cables (OPPO->Anthem->TV). Re-installing the Anthem firmware is problematic as I have 2.11 with my unit but there is only 2.10 available on the site. I sent an official request to Anthem to provide me with the test beta to test on my unit but I am not sure if I will get it and when. But I want to try better cables first although I don't understand how a 3 feet Monoprice high speed cable can be bad (when I was testing Anthem together with OPPO but with no TV, although Oppo's cable did not work even in this combination, without TV, but works well with other equipment). Funny thing, when I had OPPO connected to Anthem and TV disconnected, I was getting 1080p on the screen. Connecting the TV cable instantly changed 1080p to MAIN (and no video/audio), disconnecting the TV restored the link between OPPO and Anthem. It is like there was something wrong with the whole HDMI handshaking sequence between three of my components but I could not find a solution on how to fix it (re-sending the HDMI handshake request from OPPO would probably help but nothing I tried worked)

Let Anthem know you need V2.11. Anthem tech support can get you access to their password protected download page. The download which includes the V2.12x "test" firmware also includes V2.11 for use with units that already have that installed.

I use the Oppo provided cables all the time. I also use cables from Blue Jeans Cable (an AVS Forum sponsor). Of course any cable can have a defect. Have you checked all plugs and sockets for signs of pin damage yet?

The HDMI handshake involves ALL connected devices. If any connection is marginal it can screw up HDMI even over paths not using that connection.

By the way, you could also give Oppo a call and they too can give you assistance diagnosing this.

ETA: Another test to try is to do delayed power up in reverse order of the HDMI connections. That is, power up the display. Wait. Then power up the Anthem. Wait. Then power up the Oppo.

If that works then that suggests the problem is that your display is not handling its HDMI properly during power up. This is not uncommon. Once the display gets confused, it tends to remain confused.
--Bob

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post #35677 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The Mode button has different functionality for "press" and for "press and hold" and for "press and hold then release then press again".

As such, you probably need Harmony to replace your "learned" command with one that's been tweaked by their command editors. Frankly, at this point I'm surprised it isn't already correct in their database for the D2v as they've had a correct version of the command for several years now.
--Bob

You are right. Their template was wrong.
But I managed to solve the problem. The regular way to learn IR commands is called Analyzed (whatever that means?!). But in Advanced mode it can learn IR commands in Raw mode (?!). That's the one that worked.
Thanks for bringing my attention on the complexity of that command.
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post #35678 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Let Anthem know you need V2.11. Anthem tech support can get you access to their password protected download page. The download which includes the V2.12x "test" firmware also includes V2.11 for use with units that already have that installed.

I use the Oppo provided cables all the time. I also use cables from Blue Jeans Cable (an AVS Forum sponsor). Of course any cable can have a defect. Have you checked all plugs and sockets for signs of pin damage yet?

The HDMI handshake involves ALL connected devices. If any connection is marginal it can screw up HDMI even over paths not using that connection.

By the way, you could also give Oppo a call and they too can give you assistance diagnosing this.

ETA: Another test to try is to do delayed power up in reverse order of the HDMI connections. That is, power up the display. Wait. Then power up the Anthem. Wait. Then power up the Oppo.

If that works then that suggests the problem is that your display is not handling its HDMI properly during power up. This is not uncommon. Once the display gets confused, it tends to remain confused.
--Bob

Thank you Bob. I actually grabbed a pair of new HDMI cables exceeding the specifications 4X times. Result is the same. I now more inclined to think that this is an issue with HDCP handshake between my TV and Anthem (but not TV and OPPO as they both work fine). I have rather old TV Toshiba 52XV540U and I guess there is some bug somewhere in HDCP handshake between my component. And I am sure it is HDCP protection as I see all the signs like black screen, no sound, blinking screen, white noise etc.

BUT THE ISSUE IS GONE after I connected my TV to hdmi2 out and all my other equipment to HDMI5-HDMI8 ins (so all from the bottom HDMI row). Right now HDMI2 from OPPO goes to HDMI7 in Anthem and HDMI2 from Anthem to TV. This combination works fine. I know that Anthem uses different boards for HDMI1-HDMI4 ins and HDMI1 out, so my OPPO -> Anthem -> TV combination does not work reliably through this top HDMI set. Fortunately I am getting those swapped out with new 3D version by my dealer and maybe it will solve the issue with the top row (not that I really need it). For now I am staying at bottom HDMI row.

Bob, are there different chips used for top and bottom HDMI rows? I am just trying to understand why do I have so different behavior with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 and HDMI5:HDMI8+HDMI2. It is rock solid right now, no issue with HDCP and handshake is much faster on border of unnoticeable (with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 I could have several seconds of blinking and switching on and off)
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post #35679 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 02:16 PM
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Just thought I would share my impressions on firmware 2.12x. Almost everything is perfect except for one thing, the switching of sources. My setup is pretty basic with just an Oppo BDP-95 connected and Epson EH TW-3200 projector (1080p). I have 2 settings, one for Blu-Ray and one for USB (.avi's on a stick) and when I switch to either for the first time the menu for the Oppo is average where the words look low rez (jaggered). When I switch back the issue is resolved and going back and forth from then on is fine no problem. It's the first switching that is (for me) that I get the issue. It's not a deal breaker but can be annoying if you want things just to be right .

I cannot test to see if the DTS-HD MA issue is fixed, but some others here have confirmed it. Not sure if it's just me but I've listened to 2 Blu-Rays with DTS-HD MA and to me they sounded louder than before with a bigger sound stage and the bass seems more potent. Main volume level was the same so I'm just confirming that the DTS-HD MA issue has definitely been resolved and I'm just imagining this difference I'm hearing .
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post #35680 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkojevnikov View Post

Thank you Bob. I actually grabbed a pair of new HDMI cables exceeding the specifications 4X times. Result is the same. I now more inclined to think that this is an issue with HDCP handshake between my TV and Anthem (but not TV and OPPO as they both work fine). I have rather old TV Toshiba 52XV540U and I guess there is some bug somewhere in HDCP handshake between my component. And I am sure it is HDCP protection as I see all the signs like black screen, no sound, blinking screen, white noise etc.

BUT THE ISSUE IS GONE after I connected my TV to hdmi2 out and all my other equipment to HDMI5-HDMI8 ins (so all from the bottom HDMI row). Right now HDMI2 from OPPO goes to HDMI7 in Anthem and HDMI2 from Anthem to TV. This combination works fine. I know that Anthem uses different boards for HDMI1-HDMI4 ins and HDMI1 out, so my OPPO -> Anthem -> TV combination does not work reliably through this top HDMI set. Fortunately I am getting those swapped out with new 3D version by my dealer and maybe it will solve the issue with the top row (not that I really need it). For now I am staying at bottom HDMI row.

Bob, are there different chips used for top and bottom HDMI rows? I am just trying to understand why do I have so different behavior with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 and HDMI5:HDMI8+HDMI2. It is rock solid right now, no issue with HDCP and handshake is much faster on border of unnoticeable (with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 I could have several seconds of blinking and switching on and off)

The upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem is handled by the same type of hardware, but on a separate daughter board. It is possible that board has a problem.

The HDMI 1 output of the Oppo has a more complicated HDMI handshake since it has to include the player's video processor in the protocol.
--Bob

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post #35681 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by xtrips View Post

You are right. Their template was wrong.
But I managed to solve the problem. The regular way to learn IR commands is called Analyzed (whatever that means?!). But in Advanced mode it can learn IR commands in Raw mode (?!). That's the one that worked.
Thanks for bringing my attention on the complexity of that command.

Analyzed means they attempt to match the raw input against their database and replace the raw input with a code already in their database if they think they have a match.
--Bob

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post #35682 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkojevnikov View Post

...
Bob, are there different chips used for top and bottom HDMI rows? I am just trying to understand why do I have so different behavior with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 and HDMI5:HDMI8+HDMI2. It is rock solid right now, no issue with HDCP and handshake is much faster on border of unnoticeable (with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 I could have several seconds of blinking and switching on and off)

I am not Bob, but I think that the D2v uses a daughter board for the top row of hdmi connections and this is what get replaced with the 3D upgrade.
It could be that the internal connections to daughter got loosed inside if you have recently moved your D2v.

Edit: well the real Bob was faster that me.
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post #35683 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem is handled by the same type of hardware, but on a separate daughter board. It is possible that board has a problem.

The HDMI 1 output of the Oppo has a more complicated HDMI handshake since it has to include the player's video processor in the protocol.
--Bob

Thank you! I will just wait then for those upper daughter boards to be swapped with the new 3D ones, no reason to hurry as with low HDMI row everything works perfectly now. The most amazing thing is that everything else works fine with those daughter boards except from OPPO BDP-93.

I have one more theoretical question about Anthem AVM 50V. When I am feeding the 192 KHz music, is it down-converteing to 96 KHz first to be processed by DSP/ARC or DSP/ARC work in 192 KHz domain, or Anthem does not apply some corrections to 192 Khz input? I am asking because when looking at input and output format I can see 192 KHz for input but 96 KHz (or sometimes even 48 KHz) for output on LCD screen so I am wondering why not 192 KHz for output.
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post #35684 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 04:29 PM
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Quick question. If arc sets the x-over roll-off for my left, center and right to 60hz, is it ok to change them back to 80 without screwing up the eq that was done by arc. 60hz is just to low and at high volumes depending on the listening material the mud-woofers are bottoming out.
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post #35685 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PlatinumSV View Post

Quick question. If arc sets the x-over roll-off for my left, center and right to 60hz, is it ok to change them back to 80 without screwing up the eq that was done by arc. 60hz is just to low and at high volumes depending on the listening material the mud-woofers are bottoming out.

You can do it in your Targets View. After you make the change, then Calculate, Save ARC File, and then upload the ARC File.
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post #35686 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post


You can do it in your Targets View. After you make the change, then Calculate, Save ARC File, and then upload the ARC File.

Thank you. Do you access that before or after you run arc.

Joe
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post #35687 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by PlatinumSV View Post


Thank you. Do you access that before or after you run arc.

Joe

The file you saved after running ARC is what you use to change the targets.
John

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post #35688 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Check the RS-232 Settings portion of Setup in the D2v. Odds are you reconfigured something in there when doing a firmware install or using the Anthem utilities. The usual culprit is the RS-232 TX Status setting which is OFF by default but needs to be ON for some remote control systems to work properly. The Flow Control setting may be the other culprit. See Section 3.11 in the Manual.
--Bob


Bob, thanks for your response. I did reset the values per your suggestion and it didn't work, so I kept digging thinking I was close. I did notice in a response earlier about setting the serial port to 8-N-2 so I decided to double check the setting in my remote where they were 8-N-1. I corrected that and all is well and back to normal. I have no idea why it worked before and then stopped working as I never remember changing those settings, but maybe some updates in the D2V made it realize it didn't want to communicate on 8-N-1 anymore.

Are there any other pieces of software that can be used to configure the D2V? It seems like the Video settings can be setup, but you still have to do many of the configurations to assign Video Output via the D2V on screen menu. Just curious if this could be done easier by PC or not.
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post #35689 of 43234 Old 01-15-2012, 09:55 PM
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You can see the 6 Ft tall speakers in this picture

Doc ...are these Carvers original ribbons ("The Amazing Loudspeaker")? How far from the back and side walls do you have them placed? I know they love lots of room to breath...

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #35690 of 43234 Old 01-16-2012, 09:27 PM
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New day, new problem.

I am using Livevideosettingseditor to upload a custom resolution to my D2V running 2.10.

The resolution works great until i turn the D2V off and on. The D2V defaults to 720/60P and the custom resolution is no longer in the D2V.

It seems like it is not retaining uploaded settings and now I am wondering if other settings like are are also not being retained.

Please help figure out how to make the settings be retained and verify ARC is also being retained
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post #35691 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by hoehne View Post

New day, new problem.

I am using Livevideosettingseditor to upload a custom resolution to my D2V running 2.10.

The resolution works great until i turn the D2V off and on. The D2V defaults to 720/60P and the custom resolution is no longer in the D2V.

It seems like it is not retaining uploaded settings and now I am wondering if other settings like are are also not being retained.

Please help figure out how to make the settings be retained and verify ARC is also being retained

I am not an expert on the LVSE, but after you did the upload you may want to go into the D2v's setup and save the user settings/installer settings.
Don't know if it will work, but a pretty simple procedure.

I think your speaker levels would all be '0' if ARC somehow got erased during the LVSE upload.
You can always upload your ARC again to make sure if you are worried.

It would probably be a good idea to check your other settings in the D2v setup menu if you are worried.

Tom

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post #35692 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 09:24 AM
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Also isn't there something about having to be on at least firmware 2.11 or 2.12 for LVSE to work?

David

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post #35693 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 10:29 AM
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^^ That is correct, you need 2.12 and CustomResolutionManager. LVSE is no longer supported unless you have a very old firmware.

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post #35694 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

Just thought I would share my impressions on firmware 2.12x. Almost everything is perfect except for one thing, the switching of sources. My setup is pretty basic with just an Oppo BDP-95 connected and Epson EH TW-3200 projector (1080p). I have 2 settings, one for Blu-Ray and one for USB (.avi's on a stick) and when I switch to either for the first time the menu for the Oppo is average where the words look low rez (jaggered). When I switch back the issue is resolved and going back and forth from then on is fine no problem. It's the first switching that is (for me) that I get the issue. It's not a deal breaker but can be annoying if you want things just to be right .

Since I've been playing with Custom resolution, I've been doing lots of switching with 2.12 firmware. There are definitely glitches but I often had switching glitches (blank screens or colored screens) with my factory installed 2.10 firmware. I find that if I avoid interlaced modes (1080i) and leave nothing to fate (AUTO) the switching is much more reliable.

Quote:


I cannot test to see if the DTS-HD MA issue is fixed, but some others here have confirmed it. Not sure if it's just me but I've listened to 2 Blu-Rays with DTS-HD MA and to me they sounded louder than before with a bigger sound stage and the bass seems more potent. Main volume level was the same so I'm just confirming that the DTS-HD MA issue has definitely been resolved and I'm just imagining this difference I'm hearing .

The soundstage should be broader than before. Depending on your main speakers you may get more bass now too.

If you are still applying front speaker volume trims as was recommended when the issue was identified here, then you are now hearing the front L/R too loud compared to the center speaker.

If you are NOT applying front speaker volume trims, which (I think) should be the default after firmware update process, then you are now hearing the fronts at the correct level. Please check and ... Enjoy!

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post #35695 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

First check that all your speaker connections are tight -- Anthem to amp to speaker.

Also inspect the entire cable for damage. I once had a cable partially hidden by a cover plate and accidentally drove a screw through it. It still played sound but slowly killed the amp!

If your wires are in-wall the same could happen... or they could have been chewed by mice this time of year. In that case get an ohm-meter and measure the end-to-end resistance of each leg (should be very close to 0 ohms).

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post #35696 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 01:29 PM
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Quote:


If you are NOT applying front speaker volume trims, which (I think) should be the default after firmware update process, then you are now hearing the fronts at the correct level. Please check and ... Enjoy!

Yes it was the first thing I checked. All trims were back to "0" after the firmware update and loading User Settings.

Thanks for the reply.
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post #35697 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Let Anthem know you need V2.11. Anthem tech support can get you access to their password protected download page. The download which includes the V2.12x "test" firmware also includes V2.11 for use with units that already have that installed.
--Bob

OK, I finally got info from Anthem. I updated my firmware to ver. 2.11x and everything works fine now. All the HDMI inputs, outputs, and HDCP handshake is much faster. Setup menu is also much faster now. So I am finally happy. Thank you all for your help.
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post #35698 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

^^ That is correct, you need 2.12 and CustomResolutionManager. LVSE is no longer supported unless you have a very old firmware.

My firmware is 2.10 and LVSE is part of the ARC 3.0.2 download from Anthem. I assume these are all compatible.

I may try to use CRM with firmware 2.12p or higher according to the readme. What is the easy math to determine a 1080P/48Hz output from the Anthem in CRM? In LVSE is provided an easy way to choose this output and changed the settings accordingly.
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post #35699 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by hoehne View Post


My firmware is 2.10 and LVSE is part of the ARC 3.0.2 download from Anthem. I assume these are all compatible.

I may try to use CRM with firmware 2.12p or higher according to the readme. What is the easy math to determine a 1080P/48Hz output from the Anthem in CRM? In LVSE is provided an easy way to choose this output and changed the settings accordingly.

I know they bundled the software that way but sadly it doesn't work. Anthem also needs to update the user manuals to remove reference to LVSE.

Sorry I can't help you with the math. I don't know what timings your display needs. I experimented with Powerstrip on my laptop driving my PJ directly to come up with my own timings. Once known I input them to CRM. It was a long battle and wait but we've come a long way and it's finally working.

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post #35700 of 43234 Old 01-17-2012, 09:02 PM
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Well my D2v's display has been replaced so should get it back tomorrow. Now to wait for my projector to get repaired. Hopefully have it up and working by this weekend. Fingers crossed.
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