Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1384 - AVS Forum
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post #41491 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post

The unit was in to Anthem in February for an HDMI repair. I am pretty certain they updated the firmware to 1.47f at the time from 1.33, and that's what is on the D2.

I tried to downgrade the software using an XP laptop with a serial connection. Got a boot loader error, and Anthem said that's a problem separate from any HDMI processing issue. I don't know if I need to use the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter to do this, or if there's actually a problem with the D2 preventing me from being able to downgrade, but that's where things stand
.

You NEED to FLASH ERASE to go Backwards. That is what worked on my D2.

Run FLASH ERASE more than once.
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post #41492 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

You NEED to FLASH ERASE to go Backwards. That is what worked on my D2.

Run FLASH ERASE more than once.

What is Flash Erase? How do I run it?

Sorry - never heard of that process?
tx
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post #41493 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post

What is Flash Erase? How do I run it?

Sorry - never heard of that process?
tx

It is in your D2 Download package.

If you don't have it - PM Me
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post #41494 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveBoswell View Post

I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.

In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.

Dave

Interesting Dave, this is EXCELLENT news, thanks a ton! Was just struggling with the same thing this weekend, that screech is completely annoying. Always solved it the same way you did, by changing inputs, but I'll now try your trick with that EDID setting in the Xbox. Let's hope if we upgrade to the new XBOX one in November, that it won't suffer the same problems over HDMI. I just read recently that the new Xbox will not have any other video connection other than HDMI, so no Component at all, same with the Sony PS4. Like it or not, we're stuck with HDMI, so I hope Anthem is doing more testing than ever, and committed to do so for the new platforms as they become available.

Thanks again for finding a fix, I'll try it this afternoon and report back.

-Brian
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post #41495 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

It is Anthem not following the standards.

With all due respect, sir, tell that to HDMI, who has certified the D2, D2v, and their AVM cousins. The most recent re-opening of this dead-horse topic, born in this very thread in the year of 2006, seems to have started in post 41353

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23630319

excerpt from what you quoted to make your point about Anthem copping out:



Now THERE's a new one... Anthem is not even in his system but you're still telling the world it's Anthem's fault. As for your claim of no one else having problems, I didn't even finish typing a query when auto-complete started saying, "oh yes they do..."



To fact-check and proof-read would have taken 1% of the effort put into a single post.

Reminder: Please don't send me PM because on average I check in once every few months. The regular tech support channels are easily reachable.
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post #41496 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Interesting Dave, this is EXCELLENT news, thanks a ton! Was just struggling with the same thing this weekend, that screech is completely annoying. Always solved it the same way you did, by changing inputs, but I'll now try your trick with that EDID setting in the Xbox. Let's hope if we upgrade to the new XBOX one in November, that it won't suffer the same problems over HDMI. I just read recently that the new Xbox will not have any other video connection other than HDMI, so no Component at all, same with the Sony PS4. Like it or not, we're stuck with HDMI, so I hope Anthem is doing more testing than ever, and committed to do so for the new platforms as they become available.

Thanks again for finding a fix, I'll try it this afternoon and report back.

-Brian

Thanks, hope it works for you.
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post #41497 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 01:56 PM
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The problem with standards is they contain typos and ambiguities that leave it open to interpretation, plus people just make mistakes. If I coded my software to a spec and just sat back while our suppliers coded to their software to the same spec, without doing any integration testing, our customer simply would not have a working product. The plane would never leave the hangar. This is why they pay millions for a very lengthy qualification process sometimes taking years, despite all the documentation they have already paid millions for. In the consumer world people get impatient and demand new products and free upgrades fast so this level of testing gets pushed off onto them. So we become the "integrators" in our own living rooms.

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post #41498 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Actually, strike that. Your idea piqued my interest in this. It appears that I *may* be able to get some feedback via RS-232 (using my MX-5000's '2-way RS-232 support' as opposed to IR, which has no feedback of course. For this and other equipment reasons, I've decided to get a second MRX-1 and daisy chain it to the first one. Among other things, this will give me 2 more RS-232 ports! So the 8 million dollar question is this in regards to the Anthem - is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? You should at least be able to get Volume, Power status, Mute, Input, and Mode indicators on the screen of the MX-5000 remote or other 2-way RS-232 devices, if my understanding is correct.

Thoughts??

I'm using RS-232 with my Roomie Remote on iOS. It's flawless and I have two-way feedback. I tested two way feedback initially using RS-232 command line tools from the old days. I'll have to find what tool you're trying to use, but it works.

Let me also say that I'm getting far, far more than you listed in terms of display data. I can get queries back for what the current audio setting is and I've also coded in feedback for what radio station is playing, but Roomie needs to program that into the app for it to display the feedback.

Remember that the vendor (in my case, Roomie) has to then have proper support for the commands and display that the Anthem is sending back. Otherwise, the two-way communication doesn't work.

Bottom line, yes, RS232 works. It works wonderfully well and you get 2-way feedback if the remote supports it.

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post #41499 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

I'm using RS-232 with my Roomie Remote on iOS. It's flawless and I have two-way feedback. I tested two way feedback initially using RS-232 command line tools from the old days. I'll have to find what tool you're trying to use, but it works.

Let me also say that I'm getting far, far more than you listed in terms of display data. I can get queries back for what the current audio setting is and I've also coded in feedback for what radio station is playing, but Roomie needs to program that into the app for it to display the feedback.

Remember that the vendor (in my case, Roomie) has to then have proper support for the commands and display that the Anthem is sending back. Otherwise, the two-way communication doesn't work.

Bottom line, yes, RS232 works. It works wonderfully well and you get 2-way feedback if the remote supports it.

Very cool, thanks a ton for the feedback. I am using a URC remote, specifically the MX-5000, which supports 2-way RS-232 among other things. I will let you know perhaps tonight at 3am if it works (I had a delay as I just got back from the dealership getting the 3D board installed in my D2V! Wooooohoooo!). Now I get to re-connect 800 cables to it, trying not to forget how everything was wired, and then I can start the long process of programming all my new URC crap. Oh what fun it is, just in time though for football season, labor day, US Open tennis, and new seasons of Boardwalk Empire and other perfectly good ways to waste time!

-Brian
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post #41500 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?

I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight eek.gif and its an addiction I need to feed.

It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.

Tom

A quick update. Anthem is going to send me a different mic to see if it helps.

So far I cannot find an old ARC file from my D2 days, but attached are the graphs using my current mic. I will post the graphs from the new mic after I get it.

Alan

Arc graphs.pdf 146k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Arc graphs.pdf (146.4 KB, 14 views)
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post #41501 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

I'm using RS-232 with my Roomie Remote on iOS. It's flawless and I have two-way feedback. I tested two way feedback initially using RS-232 command line tools from the old days. I'll have to find what tool you're trying to use, but it works.

Let me also say that I'm getting far, far more than you listed in terms of display data. I can get queries back for what the current audio setting is and I've also coded in feedback for what radio station is playing, but Roomie needs to program that into the app for it to display the feedback.

Remember that the vendor (in my case, Roomie) has to then have proper support for the commands and display that the Anthem is sending back. Otherwise, the two-way communication doesn't work.

Bottom line, yes, RS232 works. It works wonderfully well and you get 2-way feedback if the remote supports it.

By the way, are you using an RS-232 splitter of some sort, so you can keep the connection for the remote control and still have a connection available for software and ARC updates? Of course, if you can easily access the back of your D2V this is no big deal to swap connections when you need to, but for those of us with no easy access to the back of the device once it's in its place, I am wondering what the solution is.
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post #41502 of 42984 Old 08-29-2013, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

By the way, are you using an RS-232 splitter of some sort, so you can keep the connection for the remote control and still have a connection available for software and ARC updates? Of course, if you can easily access the back of your D2V this is no big deal to swap connections when you need to, but for those of us with no easy access to the back of the device once it's in its place, I am wondering what the solution is.

No splitter. I manually unplug it for firmware updates or ARC. Good luck and hope it works. I also use direct IP control with 2-way feedback from Roomie on a Marantz and I prefer the RS232.

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post #41503 of 42984 Old 08-30-2013, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

Another method is to run optical out of the Xbox, Tens of millions of Xbox owners out there, good thing they all don't have a D2v.

I forgot that one, but I'm stubborn. It worked for years over HDMI, so I wanted it to continue to work over HDMI. If it wasn't for ARC, I'd be looking for another solution for this problem.
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post #41504 of 42984 Old 08-30-2013, 11:17 AM
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Is the headphone output of the D2v/50v pre or post ARC? I think its pre-ARC but I want confirmation...Thx!


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #41505 of 42984 Old 08-30-2013, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Is the headphone output of the D2v/50v pre or post ARC? I think its pre-ARC but I want confirmation...Thx!

Circuitry wise I don't know if the headphone is taken off before or after, but ARC will be completely bypassed when using headphones - as the 'Room' no longer exists to require Correction.
Regards, Mike
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post #41506 of 42984 Old 08-30-2013, 01:46 PM
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Right. Besides, sticking the ARC mic up your nose is no fun....

Headphone output is processed in the sense that it is the Stereo down-mix of the Main Path audio. Bass, Treble, and Balance adjustments are also available (Manual Section 4.7) if Bypass is not selected. And of course Volume.

The easiest way to remember this is to think of ARC as an output stage function, tied to each speaker. There's no ARC data for the Headphone speakers, nor for the speakers on Zone 2 or Zone 3.
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post #41507 of 42984 Old 08-30-2013, 04:03 PM
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Thanks AV and Bob. Y'all make sense now ... Was never aware the headphone output is a stereo down-mix of all 7.1 output channels.


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #41508 of 42984 Old 08-31-2013, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

By the way, are you using an RS-232 splitter of some sort, so you can keep the connection for the remote control and still have a connection available for software and ARC updates? Of course, if you can easily access the back of your D2V this is no big deal to swap connections when you need to, but for those of us with no easy access to the back of the device once it's in its place, I am wondering what the solution is.

I use SR-2 Serial Routers to enable multiple device control of RS232 components. wink.gif

--
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post #41509 of 42984 Old 08-31-2013, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Korey View Post

I use SR-2 Serial Routers to enable multiple device control of RS232 components. wink.gif

Interesting. I'm tempted, but for 150 bucks, I think I can pull my rack out and connect the laptop to do firmware updates and ARC re-calibration (barely twice a year on average). Thanks though, this is bookmarked now for consideration in the future.

-Brian
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post #41510 of 42984 Old 08-31-2013, 05:08 PM
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You could use an old switchbox, or just connect the wires together manually with the right gender adapter.


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post #41511 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 12:55 PM
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Having a problem with my HDMI2 output to the small rack TV that was working fine before I had the dealer do the 3D video board upgrade. I use this small TV as a way of avoiding turning on my large TV when I simply want to stream music from my Oppo 95, or watch my SAT source or CABLE source when I'm sitting right next to the rack and don't need a nice big TV. Okay, since the D2V upgrade to add the 3D capable board, I can no longer get proper HDMI syncing from the Oppo 95 when using the HDMI2 display when the main HDMI1 display is turned off. The SAT Tivo and the Cable Series 3 Tivo both work fine without the main display on, but the Oppo source does not. It tries like mad to get a "lock" on the signal, but after 3 seconds of displaying properly, it flakes out and goes back and forth like that forever. I've tried lowering the resolution on the Oppo to 480p or 480i (instead of Source Direct) and still no luck. I've tried moving the Oppo input to a different HDMI port on the D2V, and no luck (upper vs. lower 4 inputs, tried them both). No change. This was working perfectly without the 3D board upgrade (even with 3.09 code I had put on *before* the hw upgrade). Of course, immediately after the upgrade, I put 3.09 on again, as dictated by Anthem's release notes and others here. I'm at a complete dead end. This is a MAJOR problem, as one of the most important requirements is to be able to surf the Oppo and use its many features *without* needing to power on the main HDMI1 out display.

I know there are others from years passed here that have projectors or what not off HDMI1 and small little displays on HDMI2 like mine for exactly this purpose, anybody have 3.09 with the 3D board upgrade and with an Oppo Blu-ray player of some sort, even if not the 95?

Thanks for any help anyone can think of...

-Brian
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post #41512 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 03:00 PM
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3D upgrade? Wow, I've been gone a LONG time. Email subscription notifications just started showing up again for me. Hey, look! I'm still a gold subscriber member!

So, where are we with the Statement products? I'm an "original" D2 owner, not a D2v. I asked about an upgrade a few years back and was told there wasn't an upgrade path... I got a "trade in" price, but it certainly didn't make sense.
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post #41513 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Having a problem with my HDMI2 output to the small rack TV that was working fine before I had the dealer do the 3D video board upgrade. I use this small TV as a way of avoiding turning on my large TV when I simply want to stream music from my Oppo 95, or watch my SAT source or CABLE source when I'm sitting right next to the rack and don't need a nice big TV. Okay, since the D2V upgrade to add the 3D capable board, I can no longer get proper HDMI syncing from the Oppo 95 when using the HDMI2 display when the main HDMI1 display is turned off. The SAT Tivo and the Cable Series 3 Tivo both work fine without the main display on, but the Oppo source does not. It tries like mad to get a "lock" on the signal, but after 3 seconds of displaying properly, it flakes out and goes back and forth like that forever. I've tried lowering the resolution on the Oppo to 480p or 480i (instead of Source Direct) and still no luck. I've tried moving the Oppo input to a different HDMI port on the D2V, and no luck (upper vs. lower 4 inputs, tried them both). No change. This was working perfectly without the 3D board upgrade (even with 3.09 code I had put on *before* the hw upgrade). Of course, immediately after the upgrade, I put 3.09 on again, as dictated by Anthem's release notes and others here. I'm at a complete dead end. This is a MAJOR problem, as one of the most important requirements is to be able to surf the Oppo and use its many features *without* needing to power on the main HDMI1 out display.

I know there are others from years passed here that have projectors or what not off HDMI1 and small little displays on HDMI2 like mine for exactly this purpose, anybody have 3.09 with the 3D board upgrade and with an Oppo Blu-ray player of some sort, even if not the 95?

Thanks for any help anyone can think of...

-Brian

Brian

It must be either your HDMI cable or the OPPO setup as the HDMI 2 is in parallel with HDMI 1.
Do you have the same problem if you have HDMI 1 as the output for the OPPO ?
Check the OPPO for designated output selections instead of auto etc.

Stew
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post #41514 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Brian

It must be either your HDMI cable or the OPPO setup as the HDMI 2 is in parallel with HDMI 1.
Do you have the same problem if you have HDMI 1 as the output for the OPPO ?
Check the OPPO for designated output selections instead of auto etc.

Stew

Not the cable Stew, its a high speed cable, same one as I was using 5 days ago when it was working perfectly. And I'm not talking about the Oppo's 2 HDMI outputs, I'm talking about the D2V's HDMI Main Out and HDMI2 out (you know, there are 2 outputs on the D2V). One is processed, one is not. HDMI2 is not just a parellel path of HDMI1. I am only using 1 HDMI out on the Oppo itself, that being HDMI1, it goes to the D2V. The issue revolves around the fact that I use 2 different displays as output from the D2V, one for my large TV and one for the small rack monitor. Again, I have 2 Tivo's that don't exhibit this problem at all, only the Oppo doesn't handshake properly when HDMI1 output on the D2V (the main large TV) is powered off.

-Brian
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post #41515 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Having a problem with my HDMI2 output to the small rack TV that was working fine before I had the dealer do the 3D video board upgrade. I use this small TV as a way of avoiding turning on my large TV when I simply want to stream music from my Oppo 95, or watch my SAT source or CABLE source when I'm sitting right next to the rack and don't need a nice big TV. Okay, since the D2V upgrade to add the 3D capable board, I can no longer get proper HDMI syncing from the Oppo 95 when using the HDMI2 display when the main HDMI1 display is turned off. The SAT Tivo and the Cable Series 3 Tivo both work fine without the main display on, but the Oppo source does not. It tries like mad to get a "lock" on the signal, but after 3 seconds of displaying properly, it flakes out and goes back and forth like that forever. I've tried lowering the resolution on the Oppo to 480p or 480i (instead of Source Direct) and still no luck. I've tried moving the Oppo input to a different HDMI port on the D2V, and no luck (upper vs. lower 4 inputs, tried them both). No change. This was working perfectly without the 3D board upgrade (even with 3.09 code I had put on *before* the hw upgrade). Of course, immediately after the upgrade, I put 3.09 on again, as dictated by Anthem's release notes and others here. I'm at a complete dead end. This is a MAJOR problem, as one of the most important requirements is to be able to surf the Oppo and use its many features *without* needing to power on the main HDMI1 out display.

I know there are others from years passed here that have projectors or what not off HDMI1 and small little displays on HDMI2 like mine for exactly this purpose, anybody have 3.09 with the 3D board upgrade and with an Oppo Blu-ray player of some sort, even if not the 95?

Thanks for any help anyone can think of...

-Brian
For diagnosis, try the same thing but with the cable disconnected from the D2v's HDMI 1 output. If that works then the problem is that the TV is keeping that HDMI 1 connection "live" even though the TV is OFF, but it's not responding as expected during he handshakes. It may be possible to work around that by disabling things like HDMI CEC in that TV (may mean switching to a different HDMI input on it).

OPPO has an upgraded Anthem in their lab, and may also be able to offer assistance. My guess is the other sources aren't trying to negotiate Copy Protection to the powered down TV.
--Bob

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post #41516 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 05:29 PM
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^ Another thing to try is to switch the main TV to a different HDMI input -- perhaps one not even cabled -- before turning it OFF. It may only be keeping its "last used" HDMI input live when it is turned off.
--Bob

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post #41517 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Not the cable Stew, its a high speed cable, same one as I was using 5 days ago when it was working perfectly. And I'm not talking about the Oppo's 2 HDMI outputs, I'm talking about the D2V's HDMI Main Out and HDMI2 out (you know, there are 2 outputs on the D2V). One is processed, one is not. HDMI2 is not just a parellel path of HDMI1. I am only using 1 HDMI out on the Oppo itself, that being HDMI1, it goes to the D2V. The issue revolves around the fact that I use 2 different displays as output from the D2V, one for my large TV and one for the small rack monitor. Again, I have 2 Tivo's that don't exhibit this problem at all, only the Oppo doesn't handshake properly when HDMI1 output on the D2V (the main large TV) is powered off.

-Brian

Brian
I understand what you are trying to accomplish.
After I read your post I moved my display to HDMI 2 OUT to test HDMI 2 and it works for every input from the HDMI inputs 1-6.
There is No on screen display from the Anthem from HDMI 2 out
Try different Anthem HDMI inputs from 1 to 4 on the top board.

From Anthem's web site
"It’s now 3D equipped. Fully featured 7.1-channel audio and video processor, 8 HDMI Inputs and 2 Parallel HDMI outputs with the top four ports (HDMI 1 through 4) and top output (HDMI 1) supporting true bypass sensing 3D inputs automatically, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio, PCM 24/192, highest quality 1080p upscaling with 1080p24 compatibility, Anthem Room Correction, premium quality A/D and D/A converters, 24-bit/192 kHz upsampling on all channels in main zone, two stereo zones."

Also try an input on the lower board for the OPPO bypassing the 3D sensing
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post #41518 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

For diagnosis, try the same thing but with the cable disconnected from the D2v's HDMI 1 output. If that works then the problem is that the TV is keeping that HDMI 1 connection "live" even though the TV is OFF, but it's not responding as expected during he handshakes. It may be possible to work around that by disabling things like HDMI CEC in that TV (may mean switching to a different HDMI input on it).

OPPO has an upgraded Anthem in their lab, and may also be able to offer assistance. My guess is the other sources aren't trying to negotiate Copy Protection to the powered down TV.
--Bob

Okay, I tried what you suggested, removing HDMI1 out completely from the back of the D2V, and voila! the picture stays synced properly to the little TV attached to HDMI2 out of D2V. So, it is definitely something about the D2V really wanting to sync badly with the TV, even though it is off. I then tried your suggestion of looking for disablement of HDMI CEC on the TV itself, and there are no such settings, I looked everywhere (it's a Sharp Elite 70 inch). Then, I tried switching the TV to a different HDMI input (one with nothing attached in fact) before powering it off, and still it forces the little display to freak out and not get a solid signal from the Oppo. I even tried changing the TV input to the Component input to try and fool it, and still no luck. The TV, no matter what it's set to, is still keeping HDMI1 input "live" as you say. But again, the weirdest thing is that none of my other sources (DirecTV Tivo THR-22 nor Tivo Series 3 for cable) exhibits this problem. I can watch them all day long on the little TV with the main TV totally turned off. I suspect that Oppo is the problem, the real issue lies with how it wants to sync with a powered off device. No?

Thanks again Bob, very much appreciate your helping me track this down.

-Brian
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post #41519 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 08:05 PM
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^ Actually it sounds to me like the HDMI copy protection check is failing, so you are getting constant retries. The OPPO knows the TV on that cable is "live", but the TV is not responding in the expected fashion.

In any event, I suggest you give OPPO Tech Support a call and see if they can help diagnose this for you. As I said, they have an upgraded Anthem in their lab, and may also have some history with your model of main TV.

Obviously you should also check that you have the latest firmware in your OPPO.
--Bob

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post #41520 of 42984 Old 09-03-2013, 08:51 PM
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Brian,
I am guessing that since the "3D" upgrade you have video output config set to "through"? Try setting it to an explicit 1080p mode and see if the problem goes away. There are known handshake problems with sources in this mode when the display is off. Let us know.
Stefan

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