Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1387 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #41581 of 44653 Old 09-12-2013, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by barhoram View Post

what is the latest version of ARC that works with the D2 (not V). I downloaded the version on the Anthem site, but it says it is for D2v..not the D2. I was able to take test measurements with it, but keep getting an error when it tried to upload.

ARC v3.0.2 from the Anthem web site is the correct version for the D2 as well. Your D2 should have firmware v1.33 installed.

Does it begin the Upload and fail part way, or does it fail to Upload at all? If you are also using the RS-232 port for remote control, be sure to set it's settings back to their defaults in Setup while using ARC. The setting regarding echoing input back to the sending device is often the issue. Also check the properties of your serial output on the computer.
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post #41582 of 44653 Old 09-12-2013, 04:59 PM
 
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It gets stuck at around 10%. Stayed there for about an hour until I hit abort.

What should the default settings be set at?

I think I have 1.47 firmware...but I never have had a problem with ARC on it before.
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post #41583 of 44653 Old 09-12-2013, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by barhoram View Post

It gets stuck at around 10%. Stayed there for about an hour until I hit abort.

What should the default settings be set at?

I think I have 1.47 firmware...but I never have had a problem with ARC on it before.

See the picture of that RS-232 settings menu in the Setup menu portion of the Manual.

Firmware v1.47 should work just as well.

Odds are you've got a problem with the serial connection. Is there another computer you can use to do the Upload?
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post #41584 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 08:29 AM
 
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Thanks. I got it. Needed to lower baud rate to 9600 and it worked.

I am looking to re-position my sub (Velodyne DD15) from the front stage wall to somewhere more towards the back of the theater. I have a spot to the right of the back row next to the wall that I am trying. Here is the response that I get when I move it to this location:

[IMG


How does it compare to the original location?

[IMG
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post #41585 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 08:52 AM
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Does anyone have any information related to the new (and improved?) version of ARC, the ARC M1, that is been detailed as a specification for the new MRX 310, 510, and 710 AVRs supposed to be released today and shipping in October?

Cheers.
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post #41586 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 10:14 AM
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F
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Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

Does anyone have any information related to the new (and improved?) version of ARC, the ARC M1, that is been detailed as a specification for the new MRX 310, 510, and 710 AVRs supposed to be released today and shipping in October?

Cheers.

Forgive my ignorance on this but the M1 was Anthem's amp, wasn't it? I'd be very interested to know about any forthcoming revisions to ARC.

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post #41587 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 10:22 AM
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F
Forgive my ignorance on this but the M1 was Anthem's amp, wasn't it? I'd be very interested to know about any forthcoming revisions to ARC.

Interesting tidbit is available here: CEDIA 2013 VIP Edition

Cheers.
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post #41588 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by barhoram View Post

Thanks. I got it. Needed to lower baud rate to 9600 and it worked.

I am looking to re-position my sub (Velodyne DD15) from the front stage wall to somewhere more towards the back of the theater. I have a spot to the right of the back row next to the wall that I am trying. Here is the response that I get when I move it to this location: . . . .

Neither position looks great. Your original position is showing excessive Boundary Gain, leading to the high output as you get down to 20Hz. So repositioning the Sub makes sense. But the new position shows even worse results, with dramatic roll of in the lowest bass.

I suspect that in the course of moving the Velodyne you ended up using the wrong settings in it. You unplugged it of course, and it may be that you still have it set to default to one of the more restricted output curves as its default on power up.

Go into the Velodyne's setup page and check which settings are in effect. You want to pick the setting that disables its built-in parametric EQ (choice 6 as I recall). And in there you also want to make sure its built-in crossover processing is disabled. It's been a while, but my recollection was that you set the cursor on the crossover value in the upper left of the table for setting such stuff and then press Reset on the Velodyne's remote. If you've done it right ALL of the crossover related values should change to "N/A". Check the Velodyne manual. If you alter any settings in the Velodyne you will, of course, have to re-Measure for ARC.

While you are at it, make sure it's choice of power on settings and power on volume are set correctly, so that you don't get screwy results from the Sub after a power failure. Double check that by unplugging the Velodyne and making sure it comes back up with the desired settings once you plug it back in. Note that the settings table choice and volume choice that you can make on its "home page" are *NOT* remembered across power cycles. The power up defaults need to be set on its settings page.
--Bob

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post #41589 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

Does anyone have any information related to the new (and improved?) version of ARC, the ARC M1, that is been detailed as a specification for the new MRX 310, 510, and 710 AVRs supposed to be released today and shipping in October?

Cheers.
I'm guessing, and I do mean guessing it is a user interface refresh and USB/Ethernet support. They would also need to update for the new improved processors in the receivers. I kind of doubt any of the improvements other then possibly the user interface will make it to the pre-pros but I'd wouldn't mind being surprised by a performance improvement. Sure would be nice if some of the hardware improvements trickle up to the pre-pros. Multiple subwoofer channels, 4K video, IP control and USB are all on my upgrade list.
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post #41590 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 11:43 AM
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Brian,

If your issues are resulting from HDCP copy protection problems as Bob suggested a while back, the following may help. One way potentially to "cure" HDCP issues is with a ViewHD 2 port 1x2 powered mini HDMI splitter. If you put this little $24 device between your Oppo and your D2v, it might work around your issue if it is in fact a HDCP copy protection issue. For what it is worth, I have a Slingbox 500 that got HDCP errors on most channels when I used the Slingbox's HDMI connection (Sling usually suggests connecting the Slingbox bothe with HDMI and component connections to deal with HDCP issues). I used this extremely small ViewHD splitter to split my HDMI out from a Tivo Roamio to my Sling and my TV and voila, no more HDCP problems -- the Sling now works on all channels at all times using just its HDMI connection. Just a thought.

Alan

Alan, Stew, Tom and others:

So, my saga is seemingly over on the whole "HDMI2 output from D2V to 7inch rack monitor" issue - the Cliff's Notes version is that I now have things working, thanks to my HDMI Detective Plus from Gefen. Here's the long story for anyone interested in my perfectly good waste of the better part of 4 days:

I tried many many things, so many I won't recount all of them - but I did purchase the ViewHD Mini and actually one of their slightly larger boxes, and neither one of them did the trick. I used them between the D2V and the little Xenarc monitor, they did nothing to fix the problem. I then tried them one at a time, between the D2V and the Main Sharp display, and still nothing. Then I dug around the basement for hours and found the HDMI Detective Plus. After testing many other things to make sure I isolated the symptoms accurately and provded "repeatable failure", I then placed the HDMI Detective Plus between the D2V and the Main big-boy Sharp display, at the Sharp end of course, and programmed the Sharp Elite's EDID to it. Then I connected everything and did hours of testing different power on sequences, video outputs, etc. In short, the HDMI Detective Plus is working to allow me to power off the Main Sharp display and simply use the little Xenarc, with ALL sources (Oppo included!).

I believe the reason it is working is that even with the Main Display powered off, the HDMI Detective is answering the request for an EDID that is coming from the D2V - in fact, it's "tricking" the D2V into thinking there is an active display connected. When the D2V sees that, it stops trying to "negotiate" the HDMI handshake, and it simply sends the signal to both outputs. Of course, HDMI1 out is off, but HDMI2 is on and it shows the display just fine on the little 7 inch Xenarc. So, the question might also be asked "why didn't the ViewHD devices do anything in this case?"....I believe it is because my issues were not with HDCP per se, but only with the EDID situation. The ViewHD's don't do ANYTHING for EDID.

By the way, though I now have this working, and have verified EVERY video source works with it, including DVD's, Bluray's, AppleTV, DirecTV Tivo, OTA Series 3 Tivo, etc., I do have 1 "gotcha" that I cannot get rid of. The issue is with 3D sources. [Recall that I do indeed have the 3D Upgrade board in my D2V]. The HDMI Detective Plus will pass the 3D signal just fine, actually watched Avatar in 3D through the thing for hours on the Main Display (of course the little guy shuts off when in "Through" mode like this, I don't need it anyway for such things). HOWEVER! I have to manually switch one of the Dip switches on the HDMI Detective Plus before powering on the main TV in order for 3D viewing to work. The dip switch I have to toggle corresponds to the "HDCP Passthrough" option on the HDMI Detective Plus. For ALL other viewing of every other source and normal Blurays (not 3D), DVD's, everything, the switch for PassThrough should NOT be engaged. So, 95% of the time, I can just leave it in the standard position. But when using the "Through" mode (what I call my Blu-3D virtual input on the D2V), the main TV will not work at all if I don't engage HDCP PassThrough on the HDMI Detective Plus. And the evil little thing is that you cannot fix it while the TV is still on. It won't actually change anything until you powercycle the TV. So, thinking in terms of the end goal here with my fancy shmancy MX-5000 URC remote, I will need to build a Macro for the "Watch 3D Bluray" activity, such that it peforms an "If/Else" sequence where it checks the power on the TV, and if it's currently OFF, it just proceeds normally to power the right things on in order of course like always and do the normal routines. But if the TV is currently ON, the macro needs to do something like this:

Power off the TV (discrete)
Power off the D2V Main Zone (discrete)
Immediately display a reminder on the MX-5000, or play a .wav file of me saying something like "Remember to get off your ass and go flip the 4th dip switch on the HDMI Detective Plus while I pause this Macro for you."
Pause the macro with a 1 minute Delay (yes I'm slow walking 12 feet to the display)
Power On the TV (discrete)
Power On the D2V Main Zone (discrete)
Switch to "Blu-3D" input
Delay for 10 seconds
Power on the Oppo 95 (discrete)
Play...

Something like that...so, the saga is at a point where I've troubleshot it to death - Oppo still has a case opened and will be pursuing a fix if they can find one, but again, I'm not holding my breath and I need to move on with my URC programming now - have much to do there. While I was at it, and everything was pulled out, I took the opportunity to upgrade my PS Audio PWD to the Mark II board and all...been sitting on that for 2 years! Just got things back together and man do I like the new sound - I had to sit back and listen to some tunes and remember why the hell it is I put up with this crazy hobby :-)

I'll hold on to the ViewHD boxes, just in case someday I need them for another situation - call it karma, cause if I hadn't done the same years ago with the HDMI Detective Plus, I wouldn't have solved this one. It's a band-aid solution, no doubt, but I can't wait around for Anthem or Oppo or whomever to fix the root issue. I suspect even if they do, it is ripe to get screwed up again somewhere down the line.

Cheers gents! And thanks again to all who helped me wrap my feable brain around this one.
-Brian
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post #41591 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 11:59 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Neither position looks great. Your original position is showing excessive Boundary Gain, leading to the high output as you get down to 20Hz. So repositioning the Sub makes sense. But the new position shows even worse results, with dramatic roll of in the lowest bass.

I suspect that in the course of moving the Velodyne you ended up using the wrong settings in it. You unplugged it of course, and it may be that you still have it set to default to one of the more restricted output curves as its default on power up.

Go into the Velodyne's setup page and check which settings are in effect. You want to pick the setting that disables its built-in parametric EQ (choice 6 as I recall). And in there you also want to make sure its built-in crossover processing is disabled. It's been a while, but my recollection was that you set the cursor on the crossover value in the upper left of the table for setting such stuff and then press Reset on the Velodyne's remote. If you've done it right ALL of the crossover related values should change to "N/A". Check the Velodyne manual. If you alter any settings in the Velodyne you will, of course, have to re-Measure for ARC.

While you are at it, make sure it's choice of power on settings and power on volume are set correctly, so that you don't get screwy results from the Sub after a power failure. Double check that by unplugging the Velodyne and making sure it comes back up with the desired settings once you plug it back in. Note that the settings table choice and volume choice that you can make on its "home page" are *NOT* remembered across power cycles. The power up defaults need to be set on its settings page.
--Bob

Bob,

Thanks for the detailed response. I did check the Velodyne settings, and they have not changed with unplugging. Preset is set to 6, and all of the lowpass frequency and slope settings are set to Off. Any other thoughts?
Could I perhaps use the Velodyne to boost the low frequency that has the dramatic roll off?
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post #41592 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 12:15 PM
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^ It still looks to me like something screwy is going on in the Velodyne settings, but if you can't find it, then I suggest you try shifting the position of the Sub -- even rotating it in place, while using he Quick Measure tool to see what's going on with its low bass output. The DD15 is able to do MUCH better in low bass -- without any special boost settings -- then your new chart shows.
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post #41593 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 12:51 PM
 
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Here is the Velodyne setup..see anything that looks out of whack? It may be positioning...hope it is not, because with the theater layout, there are only a few spots that the DD15 can fit. I moved it out of the front corner mainly for aesthetics. It's positioned between the riser and right wall now..slightly behind the second row of seats. Totally out of the way..but I do want it to sound good.

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post #41594 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 02:21 PM
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^ That looks fine to me. I recommend using Theater/Music level 8 in Setup 6 (i.e., maximum Servo) for highest accuracy and musicality at the expense of somewhat lower peak output levels. But as you've discovered, getting lots of output from the DD15 is not a problem.

I can't explain your Measured results in the new position. You should definitely try Quick Measure and some modest repositioning to see if you can correct that problem in the low bass output. At those frequencies, even inches matter. Indeed, just try rotating it in place first. But as things stand now you've lost at least an octave off the bottom of its bass response.

ETA: On the home page for the Velodyne, double check that it really does have Setup 6 selected at that default Volume. I'm thinking that maybe you accidentally hit the button to change to a different Setup AFTER it powered up.
--Bob

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post #41595 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

Interesting tidbit is available here: CEDIA 2013 VIP Edition

Cheers.

Superlative. and thanks for sharing that! The 1 and M were inverted so the new system will be called ARC 1M. Look forward to learning more about it. I'm assuming first question will be--will this be a retro-fit to existing D2v/50v users and if I'm inferring this correctly, it would be a "no" as it's relying on ethernet connectivity?

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post #41596 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 04:53 PM
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The new ARC stuff is for the new receivers and includes ethernet/usb and a more colorful UI. Processing is improved with new MRX compared to old (more DSP power) but still not as high as what you'd get from the D2V/AVM editions.
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post #41597 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 06:01 PM
 
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^ That looks fine to me. I recommend using Theater/Music level 8 in Setup 6 (i.e., maximum Servo) for highest accuracy and musicality at the expense of somewhat lower peak output levels. But as you've discovered, getting lots of output from the DD15 is not a problem.

I can't explain your Measured results in the new position. You should definitely try Quick Measure and some modest repositioning to see if you can correct that problem in the low bass output. At those frequencies, even inches matter. Indeed, just try rotating it in place first. But as things stand now you've lost at least an octave off the bottom of its bass response.

ETA: On the home page for the Velodyne, double check that it really does have Setup 6 selected at that default Volume. I'm thinking that maybe you accidentally hit the button to change to a different Setup AFTER it powered up.
--Bob


It appears that one of the 2 RCA cables in the back was loose. After I reconnected it, I get this using quick measure. Looks a little better? Will ARC be able to make this flatter once It does it calculations, or is it still a poor response?

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post #41598 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 07:12 PM
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^ Yeah that looks a lot better. There will be natural variation between the mic positions that should tend to flatten the Measured curve even more (just an artifact of the averaging). Your prior Measured curve had a roll off of over -20dB going down to 20Hz, and this chart has no more than about -10dB.

Anyway, there's one sure way to tell. Go Measure!

If you want to do a quicker pass just to check, set Music Same As Movie, and tell ARC you only have 2.1 speakers. That will be enough to see the Sub results in the charts. If that looks good, you can go back and do a full pass with all the speakers.
--Bob

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post #41599 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Alan, Stew, Tom and others:

So, my saga is seemingly over on the whole "HDMI2 output from D2V to 7inch rack monitor" issue - the Cliff's Notes version is that I now have things working, thanks to my HDMI Detective Plus from Gefen. Here's the long story for anyone interested in my perfectly good waste of the better part of 4 days:

I tried many many things, so many I won't recount all of them - but I did purchase the ViewHD Mini and actually one of their slightly larger boxes, and neither one of them did the trick. I used them between the D2V and the little Xenarc monitor, they did nothing to fix the problem. I then tried them one at a time, between the D2V and the Main Sharp display, and still nothing. Then I dug around the basement for hours and found the HDMI Detective Plus. After testing many other things to make sure I isolated the symptoms accurately and provded "repeatable failure", I then placed the HDMI Detective Plus between the D2V and the Main big-boy Sharp display, at the Sharp end of course, and programmed the Sharp Elite's EDID to it. Then I connected everything and did hours of testing different power on sequences, video outputs, etc. In short, the HDMI Detective Plus is working to allow me to power off the Main Sharp display and simply use the little Xenarc, with ALL sources (Oppo included!).

I believe the reason it is working is that even with the Main Display powered off, the HDMI Detective is answering the request for an EDID that is coming from the D2V - in fact, it's "tricking" the D2V into thinking there is an active display connected. When the D2V sees that, it stops trying to "negotiate" the HDMI handshake, and it simply sends the signal to both outputs. Of course, HDMI1 out is off, but HDMI2 is on and it shows the display just fine on the little 7 inch Xenarc. So, the question might also be asked "why didn't the ViewHD devices do anything in this case?"....I believe it is because my issues were not with HDCP per se, but only with the EDID situation. The ViewHD's don't do ANYTHING for EDID.

By the way, though I now have this working, and have verified EVERY video source works with it, including DVD's, Bluray's, AppleTV, DirecTV Tivo, OTA Series 3 Tivo, etc., I do have 1 "gotcha" that I cannot get rid of. The issue is with 3D sources. [Recall that I do indeed have the 3D Upgrade board in my D2V]. The HDMI Detective Plus will pass the 3D signal just fine, actually watched Avatar in 3D through the thing for hours on the Main Display (of course the little guy shuts off when in "Through" mode like this, I don't need it anyway for such things). HOWEVER! I have to manually switch one of the Dip switches on the HDMI Detective Plus before powering on the main TV in order for 3D viewing to work. The dip switch I have to toggle corresponds to the "HDCP Passthrough" option on the HDMI Detective Plus. For ALL other viewing of every other source and normal Blurays (not 3D), DVD's, everything, the switch for PassThrough should NOT be engaged. So, 95% of the time, I can just leave it in the standard position. But when using the "Through" mode (what I call my Blu-3D virtual input on the D2V), the main TV will not work at all if I don't engage HDCP PassThrough on the HDMI Detective Plus. And the evil little thing is that you cannot fix it while the TV is still on. It won't actually change anything until you powercycle the TV. So, thinking in terms of the end goal here with my fancy shmancy MX-5000 URC remote, I will need to build a Macro for the "Watch 3D Bluray" activity, such that it peforms an "If/Else" sequence where it checks the power on the TV, and if it's currently OFF, it just proceeds normally to power the right things on in order of course like always and do the normal routines. But if the TV is currently ON, the macro needs to do something like this:

Power off the TV (discrete)
Power off the D2V Main Zone (discrete)
Immediately display a reminder on the MX-5000, or play a .wav file of me saying something like "Remember to get off your ass and go flip the 4th dip switch on the HDMI Detective Plus while I pause this Macro for you."
Pause the macro with a 1 minute Delay (yes I'm slow walking 12 feet to the display)
Power On the TV (discrete)
Power On the D2V Main Zone (discrete)
Switch to "Blu-3D" input
Delay for 10 seconds
Power on the Oppo 95 (discrete)
Play...

Something like that...so, the saga is at a point where I've troubleshot it to death - Oppo still has a case opened and will be pursuing a fix if they can find one, but again, I'm not holding my breath and I need to move on with my URC programming now - have much to do there. While I was at it, and everything was pulled out, I took the opportunity to upgrade my PS Audio PWD to the Mark II board and all...been sitting on that for 2 years! Just got things back together and man do I like the new sound - I had to sit back and listen to some tunes and remember why the hell it is I put up with this crazy hobby :-)

I'll hold on to the ViewHD boxes, just in case someday I need them for another situation - call it karma, cause if I hadn't done the same years ago with the HDMI Detective Plus, I wouldn't have solved this one. It's a band-aid solution, no doubt, but I can't wait around for Anthem or Oppo or whomever to fix the root issue. I suspect even if they do, it is ripe to get screwed up again somewhere down the line.

Cheers gents! And thanks again to all who helped me wrap my feable brain around this one.
-Brian

Congrats Brian (even though the ViewHD boxes didn't work, I am glad they reminded you that you had the HDMI Detective). This is just another example of how consumer friendly all this copy protection is (it will really kill my whole-house system over time, since the heart of my video distribution system is an AVATrix AVM-562, which distributes component video over Cat-5). I wonder if some of ViewHD's boxes don't include the magic HDCP stripping trick. On my Tivo/Sling setup, it is definitely stripping HDCP from the signal and allowing my Sling to work with a single HDMI cable (where without it, I got HDCP "not authorized" errors on virtually every channel).

BTW, if the dip-switch issue eventually gets annoying (and if you feel like putting even more time and money into the issue), you might contact HDFury and see if their Dr. HDMI would do the trick (it seems to work like the HDMI Detective, but is a little newer). Copied below is the description of the $99 Dr. HDMI (its a lot for a dip switch, but ...) BTW, if anyone has used the HDFury 4 (3D), I would love to hear about it. I am thinking of getting it to add 3D to my Circa 2006 Panasonic 65PX600U, but at $400 (plus the $500 and time necessary to upgrade my D2v to 3D), I would like to get a little feedback from someone who has used it with a quality set-up.

Here goes on the Dr. HDMI --


Dr HDMI can help to solve most HDMI issues such as handshaking issue, compatibility issue and/or any EDID related issue. It help to keep a source always ON or tricked into a defined state which is especially useful for system integrators.

Dr HDMI can also boost signal integrity and extend +5v signal through a HDMI/DVI-D chain. For example, it can work hands in hands with HDfury products such as Gamer Edition to extend compatibility range. It can also be used to limit the source output resolution.

Dr HDMI acts as an EDID manager, HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater that comes with pre-defined presets, user programmable banks, Sink EDID sniffing bank and more !

Features

•Solve Most HDMI issues !
•Fix HDMI handshaking issue
•EDID Manager and Detective feature
•Easy EDID table manipulation via USB port
•HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater
•Maintain 2K, 1920×1200, 1080p video without losing sync.
•Predefined Banks (FullHD 3D, FullHD, 1080i, 720p, etc..)
•User programmable EDID Banks
•Sink EDID sniffing feature
•Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !
•Can work standalone without any PSU connected (taking power from HDMI)
•HDCP compliant

Specifications

•HDMI 1.4a compliance
•8 EDID banks (5 pre-defined, 2 user programable, 1 copy from Sink device)
•Reset HPD-event on the fly !
•Up to 50 meters cable loss compensation
•Keep source’s HDMI/DVI-D output active
•USB upgradable and flashable from computer
•User programmable EDID Banks
•Sink EDID sniffing feature
•Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !
•HDMI Pin14 on/off siwtch to fix HEAC/ARC compatibility issue
•Any resolution including HDMI standards
•Video Bandwidth : 2.25 Gbps
•Video support: Single-link 225Mhz, 2k, WUXGA, 1080p60/12bit deep color and x.v.color
•Audio support: Dolby True HD & DTS Master Audio
•Input cable equalization
•Support extended EDID CEA861, 256 byte
•HDCP Pass-Through
•Lip Sync Pass-Through
•CEC Protocol Pass-Through
•Power : Universal USB power adaptor
•Compliance: HDCP/FCC/CE
•Warranty : 1 year (extendable)
•Dimension : 60mm W x 40mm D x 20mm H
•Net weight : 50 gramms
•Input/Output connector: HDMI female
•USB: Mini USB-B female connector
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post #41600 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

The new ARC stuff is for the new receivers and includes ethernet/usb and a more colorful UI. Processing is improved with new MRX compared to old (more DSP power) but still not as high as what you'd get from the D2V/AVM editions.

Kris that's a great clarification. I'm assuming you'll be snagging one for review sometime soon? If so, look forward to hearing your opinions on the new receivers.

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post #41601 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Kris that's a great clarification. I'm assuming you'll be snagging one for review sometime soon? If so, look forward to hearing your opinions on the new receivers.

Good to hear Brian is happy with the way his setup is working .
After reading his run down on how his setup works and considering this is mainly centered on his using the 3D format in THROUGH OUTPUT COMFIG I have a question that
I have asked before but never received an answer.

My Anthem D2v is the 3D model. I watch 3D video using copied 3D blu rays played from a PopCorn Hour. The file format used is usually M2TS.
I also use my Comcast Motorola DVR and my Sony XBR smart tv to stream and view 3D video.

My Sony XBR 3D system is passive and the 3D format can be Top / Bottom or Side by Side using passive glasses.

My question is this.

For all the above sources the Video Configuration OUT is set as HDMI not THROUGH and the 3D works perfectly
I find no difference if I set the Video Config Out to THROUGH other than I lose HDMI2 out and most importantly the OS display.

So can someone explain what the video config THROUGH does and any advantages now that we have it ?
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post #41602 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 08:39 PM
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Top/Bottom or Side X Side 3D work fine with regular HDMI thus you don't have to set Through mode. Stacked 3D i.e. Blurays need Through mode. Apparently your BD M2TS files were converted to Top/Bottom or Side X Side when ripped.
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post #41603 of 44653 Old 09-13-2013, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASW View Post

Congrats Brian (even though the ViewHD boxes didn't work, I am glad they reminded you that you had the HDMI Detective). This is just another example of how consumer friendly all this copy protection is (it will really kill my whole-house system over time, since the heart of my video distribution system is an AVATrix AVM-562, which distributes component video over Cat-5). I wonder if some of ViewHD's boxes don't include the magic HDCP stripping trick. On my Tivo/Sling setup, it is definitely stripping HDCP from the signal and allowing my Sling to work with a single HDMI cable (where without it, I got HDCP "not authorized" errors on virtually every channel).

BTW, if the dip-switch issue eventually gets annoying (and if you feel like putting even more time and money into the issue), you might contact HDFury and see if their Dr. HDMI would do the trick (it seems to work like the HDMI Detective, but is a little newer). Copied below is the description of the $99 Dr. HDMI (its a lot for a dip switch, but ...) BTW, if anyone has used the HDFury 4 (3D), I would love to hear about it. I am thinking of getting it to add 3D to my Circa 2006 Panasonic 65PX600U, but at $400 (plus the $500 and time necessary to upgrade my D2v to 3D), I would like to get a little feedback from someone who has used it with a quality set-up.

Here goes on the Dr. HDMI --


Dr HDMI can help to solve most HDMI issues such as handshaking issue, compatibility issue and/or any EDID related issue. It help to keep a source always ON or tricked into a defined state which is especially useful for system integrators.

Dr HDMI can also boost signal integrity and extend +5v signal through a HDMI/DVI-D chain. For example, it can work hands in hands with HDfury products such as Gamer Edition to extend compatibility range. It can also be used to limit the source output resolution.

Dr HDMI acts as an EDID manager, HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater that comes with pre-defined presets, user programmable banks, Sink EDID sniffing bank and more !

Features

•Solve Most HDMI issues !
•Fix HDMI handshaking issue
•EDID Manager and Detective feature
•Easy EDID table manipulation via USB port
•HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater
•Maintain 2K, 1920×1200, 1080p video without losing sync.
•Predefined Banks (FullHD 3D, FullHD, 1080i, 720p, etc..)
•User programmable EDID Banks
•Sink EDID sniffing feature
•Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !
•Can work standalone without any PSU connected (taking power from HDMI)
•HDCP compliant

Specifications

•HDMI 1.4a compliance
•8 EDID banks (5 pre-defined, 2 user programable, 1 copy from Sink device)
•Reset HPD-event on the fly !
•Up to 50 meters cable loss compensation
•Keep source’s HDMI/DVI-D output active
•USB upgradable and flashable from computer
•User programmable EDID Banks
•Sink EDID sniffing feature
•Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !
•HDMI Pin14 on/off siwtch to fix HEAC/ARC compatibility issue
•Any resolution including HDMI standards
•Video Bandwidth : 2.25 Gbps
•Video support: Single-link 225Mhz, 2k, WUXGA, 1080p60/12bit deep color and x.v.color
•Audio support: Dolby True HD & DTS Master Audio
•Input cable equalization
•Support extended EDID CEA861, 256 byte
•HDCP Pass-Through
•Lip Sync Pass-Through
•CEC Protocol Pass-Through
•Power : Universal USB power adaptor
•Compliance: HDCP/FCC/CE
•Warranty : 1 year (extendable)
•Dimension : 60mm W x 40mm D x 20mm H
•Net weight : 50 gramms
•Input/Output connector: HDMI female
•USB: Mini USB-B female connector

I'd be darn curious about this HDMI Dr. Product. I'm convinced that my LCD TV and Anthem don't like each other. I've purchased and swapped out so many new HDMI cables that I could compete against Blue Jeans and Monoprice.

I still occasionally get no video to my display (but audio through the Anthem fine) or no audio and no video. Turning off the TV and then on again or doing the same with the Anthem works every time. I have an HDMI cable integrity tester and my cables pass every time.

So in curious if I could put this between the LCD TV and the Anthem to knock out the remaining HDMI gremlins.

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post #41604 of 44653 Old 09-14-2013, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Superlative. and thanks for sharing that! The 1 and M were inverted so the new system will be called ARC 1M. Look forward to learning more about it. I'm assuming first question will be--will this be a retro-fit to existing D2v/50v users and if I'm inferring this correctly, it would be a "no" as it's relying on ethernet connectivity?

My bad. Probably explains why my google search for M1 didn't provide anything useful in terms of ARC smile.gif

Cheers.
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post #41605 of 44653 Old 09-14-2013, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

The new ARC stuff is for the new receivers and includes ethernet/usb and a more colorful UI. Processing is improved with new MRX compared to old (more DSP power) but still not as high as what you'd get from the D2V/AVM editions.

Thanks Kris,

Cheers.
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post #41606 of 44653 Old 09-14-2013, 06:51 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Yeah that looks a lot better. There will be natural variation between the mic positions that should tend to flatten the Measured curve even more (just an artifact of the averaging). Your prior Measured curve had a roll off of over -20dB going down to 20Hz, and this chart has no more than about -10dB.

Anyway, there's one sure way to tell. Go Measure!

If you want to do a quicker pass just to check, set Music Same As Movie, and tell ARC you only have 2.1 speakers. That will be enough to see the Sub results in the charts. If that looks good, you can go back and do a full pass with all the speakers.
--Bob

Here are the measurement and targets of the sub in it's new position.....would that be considered acceptable? or is it lacking in some aspect?



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post #41607 of 44653 Old 09-14-2013, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

I'd be darn curious about this HDMI Dr. Product. I'm convinced that my LCD TV and Anthem don't like each other. I've purchased and swapped out so many new HDMI cables that I could compete against Blue Jeans and Monoprice.

I still occasionally get no video to my display (but audio through the Anthem fine) or no audio and no video. Turning off the TV and then on again or doing the same with the Anthem works every time. I have an HDMI cable integrity tester and my cables pass every time.

So in curious if I could put this between the LCD TV and the Anthem to knock out the remaining HDMI gremlins.

I was having all sorts of issues between my Anthem and projector and the Dr. HDMI has pretty much eliminated them. Every once in a while I'll still have a short video drop-out but it comes back in a couple of seconds and audio continues to play. Before, I'd lose both audio and video and it could take over a minute to re-established the handshake. I tried an HDMI booster from Blue Jeans before getting the Dr. HDMI but it didn't help at all...
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post #41608 of 44653 Old 09-14-2013, 07:32 AM
 
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One more thing...if I check "flat" under the Advanced setting in Targets, the response looks like it may be a bit better....any downside of choosing Flat?

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post #41609 of 44653 Old 09-14-2013, 09:27 AM
 
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here is the final measurement with "flat" setting for the sub in it's new location.....any comments/suggestions welcome.



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post #41610 of 44653 Old 09-14-2013, 10:24 AM
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^ Yes, the Flat result for the Sub looks better.

I'd also try pushing the Sub cutoff up to 120Hz, and possibly lowering Room Gain a bit -- say to 3.5 or even 3.0.

Also, since you moved the Sub, be sure to recheck your choices for Polarity and Phase. With only one Sub you can correct those without having to re-Measure for ARC.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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