Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1405 - AVS Forum
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post #42121 of 43486 Old 12-04-2013, 03:29 PM
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Wingnut,
Some test discs have special pink/white noise tones for checking phase.

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post #42122 of 43486 Old 12-04-2013, 04:15 PM
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Thanks. I'll look through my old discs.

Kaboom.
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post #42123 of 43486 Old 12-07-2013, 11:14 PM
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Hi: Are the RCA and XLR analog output live at the same time on the D2v? Can I connect loads to both outputs? I was planning on connecting XLR to my solid-state amp and RCA to my Bob Carver tube Mono Blocks.

 

Regards,

David


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #42124 of 43486 Old 12-08-2013, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi: Are the RCA and XLR analog output live at the same time on the D2v? Can I connect loads to both outputs? I was planning on connecting XLR to my solid-state amp and RCA to my Bob Carver tube Mono Blocks.

Regards,
David

David,
This is from pg. 10 of the online D2v manual.
From what it says, both XLR and RCA are active, and can be used at the same time if necessary.
If you are running just 2 channels to the Carvers you apparently also have the option of reassigning the SUB2 and CENTER2 XLR's and using them instead.

Tom

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post #42125 of 43486 Old 12-08-2013, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porschetech View Post

Xbox works fine on hdmi 4. I wanted to keep both my xbox one and 360 as I still want to play the . I could try the rest of the lower hdmi's to see f there's a problem there. I know I have no issues with my sources. I could try the Apple TV there instead

Porschetech,

Let us know how you made out on things with this. By the way, I understand you want to keep both the XBOX360 and XBOX One active because you have old games for the 360 and all. Why not just use the HDMI input on the One and connect your old 360 directly into the XBox One, and then run ONLY the XBOX One to the D2? If I end up buying a One, this is likely how I'll do it. This way, you can still get the "slide-overs" in the One's GUI, on top of or to the sides of your 360's output. I am NOT convinced in using the XBOX One to route Cable TV or Satellite through directly, but others will likely disagree. But I do think that the use case of using the 360 *through* the One makes perfect sense. Especially for those that are running out of "virtual" inputs on the D2V, like myself :-)

Anyways, let us know what you did there.
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post #42126 of 43486 Old 12-08-2013, 01:37 PM
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New to Anthem D2 and wondering if anyone is using two center channel speakers like is mentioned in the manual? Curious since I have an extra matching center and extra channels that are not being used.
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post #42127 of 43486 Old 12-08-2013, 02:19 PM
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^ The most common reason to use a 2nd Center speaker is if you have a very large projection screen -- keeps the dialog source from being entirely below or above the screen. You might also do it if your Center speaker is not good with louder volumes -- i.e., run 2 speakers with the volume to Center dropped by -3dB so that each of them is not being pushed quite as hard. The two speakers really should be identical in model so that there is no timbre difference between them.
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post #42128 of 43486 Old 12-08-2013, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi: Are the RCA and XLR analog output live at the same time on the D2v? Can I connect loads to both outputs? I was planning on connecting XLR to my solid-state amp and RCA to my Bob Carver tube Mono Blocks.

Regards,
David

David,
This is from pg. 10 of the online D2v manual.
From what it says, both XLR and RCA are active, and can be used at the same time if necessary.
If you are running just 2 channels to the Carvers you apparently also have the option of reassigning the SUB2 and CENTER2 XLR's and using them instead.

Tom

 

Tom ...good to know. Thanks for the tip on XLR re-assignment but my Carvers only have RCA inputs unfortunately.


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #42129 of 43486 Old 12-08-2013, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Tom ...good to know. Thanks for the tip on XLR re-assignment but my Carvers only have RCA inputs unfortunately.


So
Tell us how you are planning on implementing the Carver tube amps
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post #42130 of 43486 Old 12-08-2013, 08:28 PM
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Right now, the Carvers are using the RCA outputs of the D2v and they perform as my Left/Right channels. The center and surrounds are powered by the Bob Carvers Sunfire TGA7401.  I intend to listen to 2Ch using the Carvers (Cherry colored VTA305M but upgraded with the new KT-150 power tubes PLUS a mod Bob Carver just did for me last week to accommodate the very low impedance of my Martín-Logan Spires which dip down to 0.7 ohms at 20 kHz).

 

Ultimately, the goal is to have a neutral audiophile speaker selection switch to select between the SS and Tube outputs. Know of any? Plus I need to get affordable but high quality IC cables(12 ft. ...know of any) but new speaker wire as well.

 

This is my first foray into tube related audio but my or my, it sounds so so good, very big and spacious. My sunfire amp simply can't compare to the sonics of his tube amps. Shocks the heck out of me for I'm trying to find out why this is so but my non-golden ears are happy indeed.

 

David


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #42131 of 43486 Old 12-09-2013, 02:48 PM
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Hi all. After receiving the upgrade of the Submersive amps (HP+x2) I've been playing around with Quick Measure and performed a calibration and after listening to a few BD's that I know very well I'm really satisfied with the results. Mains are JTR Triple 8's and Rears are JTR Slanted 8's.

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/



Graph1.JPG 635k .JPG file

Graph2.jpg 627k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file

What I'm most pleased about is the fact for the first time ARC set all my speakers to 90. Every calibration I've performed in the past has never resulted in all speakers being set the same and after listening to the system for the last 2 days I can confirm that it just sounds more balanced and the Center now is clearer. I watched Flight of the Phoenix yesterday and it was stunning and the bass was incredible. I know the in room response for the bass is not perfect but it has allot of impact and very clean and tight. I'm sure the bass can be improved with some bass traps but I'm restricted in space so can't put any in the corners of the room. I had to add 2.5 Room Gain as I don't get any as I've got acoustic panels on both sides of the room plus diffuser ceiling panels as well, all purchased and installed by Acoustic Vision here in Australia after doing some measurements a few years ago before obtaining a D2v and have since changed main speakers. So at the moment very happy with how the system is sounding.

Any advice on tweaking or improvements are most welcome.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Graph1.JPG (634.9 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Graph2.jpg (626.9 KB, 34 views)
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post #42132 of 43486 Old 12-09-2013, 08:22 PM
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Does anyone know if there is a way to set the EDID value for the HDMI connection in the Anthem? I'm experiencing oddities with two source devices that I believe is related to the HDMI connection. Cables are a non-factor. They have been verified and changed out with different manufacturers and different lengths including 2m.

One particular culprit is the Apple TV. If the Anthem and display are powered down and the AppleTV is left on and then the display and the Anthem are started back up, we will sometimes get video but no audio for the AppleTV. Apple's tech notes state that this is something that is symptomatic when there are receivers or switchers used between the AppleTV and the display.

I've been looking at products like switchers with EDID editing capabilities and also Dr. HDMI, but I was wondering if there was any such capability within the Anthem itself—the 50v/D2v specifically.

Anyone know the answer to this?

Thanks!

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post #42133 of 43486 Old 12-09-2013, 09:10 PM
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^ Not in the Anthem. You need a device with an EDID capture memory like Dr. HDMI.
--Bob

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post #42134 of 43486 Old 12-10-2013, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Not in the Anthem. You need a device with an EDID capture memory like Dr. HDMI.
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Thanks Bob. That's what I figured. smile.gif

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post #42135 of 43486 Old 12-10-2013, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Porschetech,

Let us know how you made out on things with this. By the way, I understand you want to keep both the XBOX360 and XBOX One active because you have old games for the 360 and all. Why not just use the HDMI input on the One and connect your old 360 directly into the XBox One, and then run ONLY the XBOX One to the D2? If I end up buying a One, this is likely how I'll do it. This way, you can still get the "slide-overs" in the One's GUI, on top of or to the sides of your 360's output. I am NOT convinced in using the XBOX One to route Cable TV or Satellite through directly, but others will likely disagree. But I do think that the use case of using the 360 *through* the One makes perfect sense. Especially for those that are running out of "virtual" inputs on the D2V, like myself :-)

Anyways, let us know what you did there.

Haven't had a chance to do anything yet. Will let you know what I find
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post #42136 of 43486 Old 12-10-2013, 10:03 PM
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Question: And please forgive me if this has already been addressed...If Arc shows me that I have say a 10 db null from 200hz to 80hz & the solution only corrects 5 db of it, theoretically, would raising the bass tone cnrl 5 db do anything to correct that? I realize all of the bass would be added to, not just the null but I'm wondering if a null can even be treated if it is that pronounced (10 db). Anyone? Thanks
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post #42137 of 43486 Old 12-10-2013, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

One particular culprit is the Apple TV. If the Anthem and display are powered down and the AppleTV is left on and then the display and the Anthem are started back up, we will sometimes get video but no audio for the AppleTV.

Do you have a 3D unit and video output set to THROUGH? There is a no audio bug when powering up the Anthem to a source set to THROUGH if the TV is OFF.

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post #42138 of 43486 Old 12-10-2013, 10:51 PM
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This concerns my use of Analog-Direct and ARC as well the Oppo 105 channel trims....

 

I happen to use Analog DSP for stereo sources and ARC for the rest. Now, I have set the trims in the Oppo 105 according the channel trim levels that ARC produced. Is this valid?


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #42139 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 06:59 AM
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I know that there may not be an answer for this...but has Anthem announced/hinted at any future plans for HDMI 2.0/4K passthrough, etc. upgrades to our units? 4K isn't all that big this year but 2014 should see the introduction of 4K BD, more sources, etc. The displays are getting out there as is HDMI 2.0. Hopefully, Anthem won't be left behind!

John
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post #42140 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

This concerns my use of Analog-Direct and ARC as well the Oppo 105 channel trims....

I happen to use Analog DSP for stereo sources and ARC for the rest. Now, I have set the trims in the Oppo 105 according the channel trim levels that ARC produced. Is this valid?

Not enough information. Have you separately wired the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs of the 105. Is the 105 set to Stereo Signal DOWN-MIXED STEREO? If so, the Analog output volume trims you've set in the 105 for its multi-channel Analog outputs are not used for that Analog Stereo connection.

In the Anthem, you say you use ANALOG-DSP for stereo analog sources. Did you mean do say ANALOG-DIRECT? If you are using ANALOG-DSP you should also use ARC for those stereo sources, since you are already telling the Anthem to re-digitize the Analog input.

As for "the rest" where you use ARC, do you mean 5.1 Analog input from the 105? Or HDMI? The Analog speaker volume trims in the 105 only affect its multi-channel Analog outputs (and the Dedicated Stereo outputs when Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set). If you are using 5.1 Analog input with ANALOG-DSP and ARC then don't do volume trims in the OPPO. ARC does that. If you are doing 5.1 Analog with ANALOG-DIRECT set (and thus no ARC), do all the settings in the OPPO. You can use the values ARC found as a starting point, but then recheck and adjust with a calibration disc, because the ARC volumes are also modified by the Room Correction parameters.
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post #42141 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 View Post

I know that there may not be an answer for this...but has Anthem announced/hinted at any future plans for HDMI 2.0/4K passthrough, etc. upgrades to our units? 4K isn't all that big this year but 2014 should see the introduction of 4K BD, more sources, etc. The displays are getting out there as is HDMI 2.0. Hopefully, Anthem won't be left behind!

Nothing stated yet.

ASK.AGAIN.LATER -- THE.FUTURE.IS.HAZY

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post #42142 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcobb22 View Post

Question: And please forgive me if this has already been addressed...If Arc shows me that I have say a 10 db null from 200hz to 80hz & the solution only corrects 5 db of it, theoretically, would raising the bass tone cnrl 5 db do anything to correct that? I realize all of the bass would be added to, not just the null but I'm wondering if a null can even be treated if it is that pronounced (10 db). Anyone? Thanks

The reason ARC won't apply more than +6dB boost is that it is not a good idea to force higher levels of power into a speaker where a room null is just eating it up anyway. You are stressing the amp and speaker to minimal effect -- like trying to fill a bucket with a big hole in the bottom -- faster water in just means faster water leaking out. If you've got a deep dip like that, then start by repositioning the speakers (e.g. further from the wall). Quick Measure tool in ARC can help find a candidate location. Room treatments to cut bass reflections off the walls can also help.
--Bob
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post #42143 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

One particular culprit is the Apple TV. If the Anthem and display are powered down and the AppleTV is left on and then the display and the Anthem are started back up, we will sometimes get video but no audio for the AppleTV. Apple's tech notes state that this is something that is symptomatic when there are receivers or switchers used between the AppleTV and the display.

I've been looking at products like switchers with EDID editing capabilities and also Dr. HDMI, but I was wondering if there was any such capability within the Anthem itself—the 50v/D2v specifically.

Anyone know the answer to this?

Thanks!

I was under the impression the AppleTV is on all the time. I do not have one but at a friends it appeared to always be on or in standby.
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post #42144 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 01:40 PM
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It is. Even if the little white LED on the front isn't on and makes you think it is actually off, the HDMI output is still active. I have a DVDO Quick6 that shows you which inputs are live at any time and the Apple one is always on even when it appears that it is in standby mode.
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post #42145 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 01:41 PM
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Correct. But you can also put it into a sleep mode after x hours. I have mine on all the time and still makes no difference. I have a complicated HDMI chain so it's not surprising. Once in a blue moon even my Oppo will not work and I'll need to reboot things

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post #42146 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcobb22 View Post

Question: And please forgive me if this has already been addressed...If Arc shows me that I have say a 10 db null from 200hz to 80hz & the solution only corrects 5 db of it, theoretically, would raising the bass tone cnrl 5 db do anything to correct that? I realize all of the bass would be added to, not just the null but I'm wondering if a null can even be treated if it is that pronounced (10 db). Anyone? Thanks

Please post your charts so that we can see where the problem may be.

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post #42147 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 09:45 PM
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Feel free to comment on the charts I posted above with any recommendations. Thanks.
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post #42148 of 43486 Old 12-11-2013, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

This concerns my use of Analog-Direct and ARC as well the Oppo 105 channel trims....

I happen to use Analog DSP for stereo sources and ARC for the rest. Now, I have set the trims in the Oppo 105 according the channel trim levels that ARC produced. Is this valid?

 

 

Not enough information. Have you separately wired the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs of the 105[YES]. Is the 105 set to Stereo Signal DOWN-MIXED STEREO? [YES].  If so, the Analog output volume trims you've set in the 105 for its multi-channel Analog outputs are not used for that Analog Stereo connection [GOOD TO KNOW].

In the Anthem, you say you use ANALOG-DSP for stereo analog sources. Did you mean do say ANALOG-DIRECT[
YES MY MISTAKE]? If you are using ANALOG-DSP you should also use ARC for those stereo sources, since you are already telling the Anthem to re-digitize the Analog input.

As for "the rest" where you use ARC, do you mean 5.1 Analog input from the 105[
NO]? Or HDMI [YES]? The Analog speaker volume trims in the 105 only affect its multi-channel Analog outputs (and the Dedicated Stereo outputs when Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set [OK]). If you are using 5.1 Analog input with ANALOG-DSP and ARC then don't do volume trims in the OPPO. ARC does that. If you are doing 5.1 Analog with ANALOG-DIRECT set (and thus no ARC), do all the settings in the OPPO [OK]. You can use the values ARC found as a starting point, but then recheck and adjust with a calibration disc, because the ARC volumes are also modified by the Room Correction parameters [WILL DO].
--Bob

 

 

Also, wouldn't I loose the sub frequencies if I set stereo signal to FRONT LEFT/RIGHT since I have the xover set to 100Hz?


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #42149 of 43486 Old 12-14-2013, 04:26 AM
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Hi guys a quick question. I have been able to get a 2nd hand SVS AS-EQ unit (I used to own one before purchasing the D2v) and just read the manual that I downloaded. My concern is this part in the manual:

Take the Calibration Microphone from your AVR or Pre/Pro (NOT the Calibration Microphone from the
AS-EQ1) and plug it into the Pass-through Mic In jack located on the front of the AS-EQ1.

3. Locate the calibration microphone “patch cable” that came with your AS-EQ1 (1/8” mono male connectors
on each end). Plug one end into the AS-EQ1’s Passthrough Mic Out jack, and the other end into the
Calibration Microphone input jack on your AVR or Pre/Pro.

The Mic that comes with Anthem is USB not a 1/8 Jack cable end so how do I connect the Anthems mic to the AS-EQ and does the D2v have a Microphone input jack for connecting the "Patch Cable"?
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post #42150 of 43486 Old 12-14-2013, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

Hi guys a quick question. I have been able to get a 2nd hand SVS AS-EQ unit (I used to own one before purchasing the D2v) and just read the manual that I downloaded. My concern is this part in the manual:

Take the Calibration Microphone from your AVR or Pre/Pro (NOT the Calibration Microphone from the
AS-EQ1) and plug it into the Pass-through Mic In jack located on the front of the AS-EQ1.

3. Locate the calibration microphone “patch cable” that came with your AS-EQ1 (1/8” mono male connectors
on each end). Plug one end into the AS-EQ1’s Passthrough Mic Out jack, and the other end into the
Calibration Microphone input jack on your AVR or Pre/Pro.

The Mic that comes with Anthem is USB not a 1/8 Jack cable end so how do I connect the Anthems mic to the AS-EQ and does the D2v have a Microphone input jack for connecting the "Patch Cable"?

The SVS AS-EQ1 was a unit made jointly by SVS an Audyssey. The instructions you quote are for Audyssey equipped units with Audyssey mics (or Audyssey Pro-Kits/mics).

Ignore these instructions and use the Mic that came with the AS-EQ1 and set up your subs. Its been a while since I had an AS-EQ1, but you will connect the sub1 and 2 out from the Anthem into the sub in on the AS-EQ1, and then out from the AS-EQ1 to your subs. Ignore any intructions about hooking up any other speakers.
When running the AS-EQ1's calibration it will generate its own test tones to equalize the subs. The Anthem doesn't need to be on or involved in any way during the AS-EQ1 equalization run.
If I remember correctly during the AS-EQ1 run it will go from sub1 to sub2 and then try to go to LF speaker and it will say it can't find the speaker. You will need to skip this step. I think you just hit the 'next' button, and it will then complete the sub sweeps and calibration.

After running and uploading the AS-EQ1 file into the AS-EQ1 , your subs are then ready for you to run ARC. Since ARC treats your subs as one just leave the AS-EQ1 turned on and run ARC as usual.

After running ARC I would suggest you follow the link on dmusoke's signature to tweak the phase for the subs. This isn't necessary, but highly encouraged to get everything just right.

SVS has an amazing customer service department, so if you have any problems don't hesitate to email them. I seem to remember getting help on the weekend from them. Hope this helps.
Tom

"You can have my remote when you pry it from my cold dead fingers" tngiloy
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