Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1420 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #42571 of 44617 Old 03-28-2014, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentTHX View Post

Need some opinions on my 8 year old or so D2. Just in the process of upgrading house to complete control4 system and building a dedicated home theatre in the basement. My question is over the years the D2 has had hand shake problems with HDMI and seams to be getting worse. I'm told because of the ever changing world of HDMI that the Statement is out dated and just can't handle speed and tech of todays HDMI. This has been told to me by both dealers I'm looking at and they say it will drive me up the wall with how control4 works. As its not easy to cycle just D2 on/off using a control4 touch screen. And I have found thats only way to fix handshake problem. So my question is should I scrap D2 as my whole house head unit in favour of a new Receiver that can do way more? I love the audio side and surround of D2 but they are right video side is a Pain in the ass. I have been told to go to Pioneer sc79 or Marantz or Yamaha. 

Any help or insight? 

Note it does have update 1.33 in it. 

Before you scrap your D2 you should try firmware v1.47f available on the Anthem Tech password protected page. Contact Anthem tech for the password, or they may just be able to email you the firmware.
Firmware v1.47f was made to fix handshake issues. I don't know if it will fix your problems, but it might be worth a try.
If the v1.47f doesn't work there is a product called 'Dr. HDMI' which some of the posters here use which may help. Someone here may be able to tell you more about that.

Speaking from personal experience, once you have gotten used to the audio quality of Anthem statement products you probably won't be satisfied with brands P, M or Y.

Are you using 'auto' settings in the D2 setup for video (color space, resolution, etc.) or in your source's setup?? Handshaking issues are often caused, or made worse, by using 'auto' in the video setup.

Just out of curiosity, do the dealers you mentioned happen to sell P, M and Y ?? I'm sure they would have no reason to want to sell you a new receiver rolleyes.gif
Just saying,

Tom

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post #42572 of 44617 Old 03-29-2014, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post


Before you scrap your D2 you should try firmware v1.47f available on the Anthem Tech password protected page. Contact Anthem tech for the password, or they may just be able to email you the firmware.
Firmware v1.47f was made to fix handshake issues. I don't know if it will fix your problems, but it might be worth a try.
If the v1.47f doesn't work there is a product called 'Dr. HDMI' which some of the posters here use which may help. Someone here may be able to tell you more about that.

Speaking from personal experience, once you have gotten used to the audio quality of Anthem statement products you probably won't be satisfied with brands P, M or Y.

Are you using 'auto' settings in the D2 setup for video (color space, resolution, etc.) or in your source's setup?? Handshaking issues are often caused, or made worse, by using 'auto' in the video setup.

Just out of curiosity, do the dealers you mentioned happen to sell P, M and Y ?? I'm sure they would have no reason to want to sell you a new receiver rolleyes.gif
Just saying,

Tom

I will give the firmware update a try, I have tried auto and manual in the past. Right now I just have D2 set up in theatre area for music while building, so I can't even see if a firmware update will fix problem. May have to do update and play the wait and see game. The one dealer that said either M or Y is where I bought Anthem from and they still sell them. But say they have no real fixes for hand shake problems.

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post #42573 of 44617 Old 03-29-2014, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentTHX View Post

I will give the firmware update a try, I have tried auto and manual in the past. Right now I just have D2 set up in theatre area for music while building, so I can't even see if a firmware update will fix problem. May have to do update and play the wait and see game. The one dealer that said either M or Y is where I bought Anthem from and they still sell them. But say they have no real fixes for hand shake problems.

Consider getting a dedicated video processor like a Radiance 2021 and just use the D2 for audio. The Lumagen processors (for example) aren't cheap but neither is building a dedicated room with control4. They are well supported on the firmware side.

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post #42574 of 44617 Old 03-29-2014, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentTHX View Post

Need some opinions on my 8 year old or so D2. Just in the process of upgrading house to complete control4 system and building a dedicated home theatre in the basement. My question is over the years the D2 has had hand shake problems with HDMI and seams to be getting worse. I'm told because of the ever changing world of HDMI that the Statement is out dated and just can't handle speed and tech of todays HDMI. This has been told to me by both dealers I'm looking at and they say it will drive me up the wall with how control4 works. As its not easy to cycle just D2 on/off using a control4 touch screen. And I have found thats only way to fix handshake problem. So my question is should I scrap D2 as my whole house head unit in favour of a new Receiver that can do way more? I love the audio side and surround of D2 but they are right video side is a Pain in the ass. I have been told to go to Pioneer sc79 or Marantz or Yamaha. 

Any help or insight? 

Note it does have update 1.33 in it. 

You should definitely try Dr. HDMI. it's fixed HDMI issues for me with my Anthem AVM50v in the mix. Whether you need just one between the D2 and display or more than one--between D2 and individual sources too--remains to be seen. For $99 you can't go wrong. It's the only thing that worked for me. I have so many HDMI cables now from debugging I'm going to setup shop as a mono price competitor biggrin.gif

These links helped me:
http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2014/01/reporting-back-on-fixing-my-apple-tv.html
And
http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2013/12/the-fix-for-appletv-hdmi-woes-and-hdmi.html?m=1

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post #42575 of 44617 Old 03-30-2014, 06:25 AM
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Speaking of HDMI issues, I haven't had a chance to test out my other HDMI banks and after I do that I'm going to see if this is another EDID-related issue. I am of the opinion that I don't have an HDMI-cabling issue. Aside from the fact that I've changed cables several times, I came across this note from the HDMI licensing group:

Q. Can HDMI cables contribute to devices not working properly together?
The vast majority of image quality or interoperability issues with HDMI devices are related to the software (firmware) used for device communication and content protection, and have nothing to do with the HDMI cable. In particular, these issues are often caused by the software related to HDCP handshaking, or from devices improperly handling the device capability information read through HDMI (e.g. the device has an incorrect EDID, or an inability to properly read an EDID). It is fairly uncommon for the cable to be the cause of HDMI compatibility problems. In fact, the robustness of the HDMI specification has been verified by the fact that we have not found a compliant HDMI cable that is the root cause of HDMI playback issues with compliant devices.


After I test out the banks, I'm also going to see about putting the HDMI doctor in the mix and see if that helps at all with the 3D Bluray situation.

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post #42576 of 44617 Old 03-30-2014, 06:43 AM
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I had problems with my D2 correctly handshaking with my original AppleTV years ago. The AppleTV would constantly lose lock on the audio signal and I would get occasional distorted video. I contacted Anthem and got the link to the 1.47f firmware. That made a huge difference and I've been running that for 3 years now. That AppleTV has since been replaced by an AppleTV 2 and then an AppleTV 3. I've not had any HDMI handshaking issues with any other devices. I would strongly encourage anyone running the original D2 to install the 1.47f firmware.
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post #42577 of 44617 Old 03-30-2014, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim Winders View Post

I had problems with my D2 correctly handshaking with my original AppleTV years ago. The AppleTV would constantly lose lock on the audio signal and I would get occasional distorted video. I contacted Anthem and got the link to the 1.47f firmware. That made a huge difference and I've been running that for 3 years now. That AppleTV has since been replaced by an AppleTV 2 and then an AppleTV 3. I've not had any HDMI handshaking issues with any other devices. I would strongly encourage anyone running the original D2 to install the 1.47f firmware.

I will contact Anthem tomorrow about getting firmware update. I have never had Audio handshake problem, have always been video. I get either a screen of snow or half screen snow and top half flashing image on and off with colors all screwed up.

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post #42578 of 44617 Old 03-30-2014, 01:23 PM
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The 3D saga continues. This time, I have 3D and deep color working flawlessly. Why is it sufdenly working? Frankly I'm not 100% sure but let me report back:

First, I tried all 4 top ports with no significant luck. I did not change any HDMI cables as I'm convinced it's not a cable issue. I kept my 3 foot high speed from source to Anthem and the. 20 foot Redmere from anthem to source in place.

Secondly, I started manually setting/enforcing certain settings on the player from auto to set values. I forced color space to 4:2:2. I forced Deep Color to 16-bit. I forced output resolution to "original resolution". I had previously set screen size to 60" and TV type to 16:9 and kept those values.

I played some Avengers in 3D with no issues and likewise no issues with the main Sony 3D bluray menu.

I never used the Dr. HDMI between anything.

After all that I must say I'm incredibly perplexed as to why there were issues and suddenly there are not. Is the Anthem creating some sort of issue with the TV and player determining setting to negotiate a proper handshake? I just don't know. Well that's where it stands for now. I'm not inclined to fool around with the settings too much but it's working smile.gif anyone have any thoughts on this?

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post #42579 of 44617 Old 03-30-2014, 02:00 PM
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So I'm able to get XBMC Gotham beta to bitstream my ripped MKV's it seems. However, what I don't understand is why the Anthem D2v 3D always says 7.1 PCM when I'm playing an HD audio ripped bluray. In particular, how does a 5.1 DTS HDMA track show up a 7.1 PCM? Previously, when I was using FFDSHOW and MPC-HC, I was getting DTS HDMA or Dolby True HD coming up on the D2v. Now, since I can only seem to get HD audio using beta XBMC, I am now getting 7.1 PCM for any HD audio track. Is this correct and am I really getting the HD audio track if my D2v isn't showing the lossless track properly on the display but 7.1 PCM instead? However, when I play Transformers in DTS HDMA, I am not getting sound in the rear surround speakers so I'm obviously not getting the full lossless track.

XBMC has an Audio Output Device setting and a Passthrough Device setting. I have WSAPI DEFAULT as the Audio Output device and D2v WSAPI as the Passthrough Device so I a assume this is correct. And I only get 7.1 PCM if the channels in XMBC audio settings is set for 7.1.

Any help/commnets is much appreciated.
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post #42580 of 44617 Old 03-30-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

So I'm able to get XBMC Gotham beta to bitstream my ripped MKV's it seems. However, what I don't understand is why the Anthem D2v 3D always says 7.1 PCM when I'm playing an HD audio ripped bluray. In particular, how does a 5.1 DTS HDMA track show up a 7.1 PCM? Previously, when I was using FFDSHOW and MPC-HC, I was getting DTS HDMA or Dolby True HD coming up on the D2v. Now, since I can only seem to get HD audio using beta XBMC, I am now getting 7.1 PCM for any HD audio track. Is this correct and am I really getting the HD audio track if my D2v isn't showing the lossless track properly on the display but 7.1 PCM instead? However, when I play Transformers in DTS HDMA, I am not getting sound in the rear surround speakers so I'm obviously not getting the full lossless track.

Any help/commnets is much appreciated.

I'm going to stretch a bit out of my area of expertise on the ripped files. The obvious is that for the Anthem to show Dolby True HD, etc, my recollection is that this needs to be decoded in the Anthem and not in the player/source. If it's decoded in the player/source then it sends a PCM stream to the Anthem. Otherwise it's the original bitstream. My question is that if you're dealing with ripped content, are you sure that the audio isn't being converted to PCM when it's ripped?

When I'm sending audio from my Mac Mini via HDMI, it always shows 7.1 regardless of the source audio because I've configured it to send multichannel and not just stereo audio. I'm wondering what hardware you're using for your XBMC server. It may be the hardware/PC vs. the XBMC software.

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post #42581 of 44617 Old 03-30-2014, 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the response.

I'm using an AMD 7970 with latest drivers over HDMI. I'm using Windows 8 64 bit running XBMC Gotham 32 bit. I know my Bluray MKV rips have the full lossless tracks because my WDTV plays the same files and the D2v shows Dolby True HD or DTS HDMA when they play. I just can't figure out why XBMC Gotham does not seem to send the bitstream in the same manner as the WDTV. I have tried all sorts of combinations for Audio Output and Audio Passthrough device but it does not change the 7.1PCM. I have tried changing Auto Dig from YES to NO and vice versa but does not make a difference. The source input audio, when pressing 7/On Screen on the D2v, shows 8.1 audio being sent but the surround rears are not engaged.

Thanks again.
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post #42582 of 44617 Old 03-31-2014, 01:48 PM
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@MStanic

Have you combed the xbmc forums for similar problems/fixes ? I've been wading through endless posts (...still working on the Quad issue mad.gif), and many folks have wrestled with HD Audio passthru problems.

Unfortunately I don't have a Windows-specific thread to point to; using OpenELEC - a Linux deriviative - I've not focused on Windows details.

As you may be aware, the audio side of xbmc was completely rewritten for Gotham - ActiveAE - and if all else fails, you could raise your issue here -> Testing audio engine ActiveAE. You'll get a response from the devs who built ActiveAE.

Good Luck.
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post #42583 of 44617 Old 03-31-2014, 02:16 PM
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FWIW, I've had good luck with OpeneELEC (both the stable and new Gotham betas) on my Intel HTPC.
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post #42584 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Why is it sufdenly working?

Secondly, I started manually setting/enforcing certain settings on the player from auto to set values. I forced color space to 4:2:2. I forced Deep Color to 16-bit.

Is the Anthem creating some sort of issue with the TV and player determining setting to negotiate a proper handshake?

Yes, the first advice we gave was to use explicit HDMI settings and leave as little as possible to AUTO.

Also the slightest change in your power-up sequence or remote macro can affect the way the handshake goes.

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post #42585 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 05:12 PM
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Yes, the first advice we gave was to use explicit HDMI settings and leave as little as possible to AUTO.

Also the slightest change in your power-up sequence or remote macro can affect the way the handshake goes.

And apparently good advice :-) oddly the Sony has more granular settings than the Panasonic. I'm going to try and see which setting may be causing the issue.

My primary concern here is that bandwidth requirements are going to simply be increasing over time and I don't want to replace my Anthem in the short term.

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post #42586 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 06:51 PM
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Ok in my case the setting that is causing the issue is the HDMI color space. Setting it to "auto" causes my screen to go blank, get sparklies, etc. It's like there is an inability to negotiate a solid connection. Setting the color space to a manual setting such as 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 stops the anomaly completely.

Now here is where it gets interesting: If it set the color space to RGB then everything goes totally haywire. Ironically, if I set Deep Color output to auto I don't get any further issues so long as the HDMI color space is defined.

Is any of this ringing a note of concern? Is there perhaps another setting somewhere that may be causing a conflict? Is this exposing a firmware issue with the Anthem or anything I should be concerned with?

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post #42587 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Ok in my case the setting that is causing the issue is the HDMI color space. Setting it to "auto" causes my screen to go blank, get sparklies, etc. It's like there is an inability to negotiate a solid connection. Setting the color space to a manual setting such as 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 stops the anomaly completely.

Now here is where it gets interesting: If it set the color space to RGB then everything goes totally haywire. Ironically, if I set Deep Color output to auto I don't get any further issues so long as the HDMI color space is defined.

Is any of this ringing a note of concern? Is there perhaps another setting somewhere that may be causing a conflict? Is this exposing a firmware issue with the Anthem or anything I should be concerned with?


Though the theory and the experts are correct and say different HDMI cables should not make a difference or be required if thay have the correct HDMI spec that theory ends with Deep Color.
Deep Color adds bandwidth requirements that escalate rapidly. This could be or may be a problem internally with many units ?

I would be aware that asking to process Deep Color may be causing some problems.

Also I believe it has been stated that no Blu Rays use Deep Color so why ask for problems trying to handle a process that is not there.
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post #42588 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 07:43 PM
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Though the theory and the experts are correct and say different HDMI cables should not make a difference or be required if thay have the correct HDMI spec that theory ends with Deep Color.
Deep Color adds bandwidth requirements that escalate rapidly. This could be or may be a problem internally with many units ?

I would be aware that asking to process Deep Color may be causing some problems.

Also I believe it has been stated that no Blu Rays use Deep Color so why ask for problems trying to handle a process that is not there.

Are you saying this could be an issue/problem with Anthem units internally? I wasn't clear from your post.

In my current test scenario, it's actually the HDMI color space—RGB—that causes the issue. If I set the color space to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 then I have no problem.

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post #42589 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Ok in my case the setting that is causing the issue is the HDMI color space. Setting it to "auto" causes my screen to go blank, get sparklies, etc. It's like there is an inability to negotiate a solid connection. Setting the color space to a manual setting such as 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 stops the anomaly completely.

Is any of this ringing a note of concern? Is there perhaps another setting somewhere that may be causing a conflict? Is this exposing a firmware issue with the Anthem or anything I should be concerned with?

This just rang a distant bell for me. When I first got the Anthem I was using a Sony BDP and got a black screen when it was set to Auto. I tried to argue with Anthem tech support that the handshake should determine the correct setting but they said it was the display that gets to decide. I gave up on the Auto setting and took control of all my settings from then on. Incidentally, after several Sony and Anthem firmware updates the problem was gone, but I now use an Oppo player.

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post #42590 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Are you saying this could be an issue/problem with Anthem units internally? I wasn't clear from your post.

In my current test scenario, it's actually the HDMI color space—RGB—that causes the issue. If I set the color space to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 then I have no problem.

The answer to your question is I don't know.
I read a lot of informative information about HDMI, HDMI cables. the differences between HDMI 1.3, 1.4a and 2.0 and they all said Deep Color increased the bandwidth required for the signal.
So the question you ask is not easily answered and I don't know the answer.

If a unit was originally designed for HDMI 1.0 and updated by firmware to 1.2, then 1.3 then 1.4a, could you surmise and I am not specifying the Anthem units. that the original design internally
does not have the bandwidth for Deep Color ?
In Anthem's case the D2v manual does say Deep Color is handled. Some assurance I guess.
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post #42591 of 44617 Old 04-01-2014, 09:09 PM
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Let's forget deep color for a sec. It's not deep color at this point that is causing the issue. It's the color space.

My basic question is why RGB would cause problems along the HDMI chain but 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 would not.

Is there something particular to the Anthem that has potential issues with the RGB signal? Why would that specific setting cause fits?

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post #42592 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 09:24 AM
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Fist time post here be kind… so my question is rather simple. Im new to the Anthem D2v3d. My question is is there a way to limit the LFE content (not the bass redirected from crossovers on my mains) just the LFE content? My old receiver the Pioneer Elite SC-55 had a LFE attenuator. I have just installed my D2v paired with my Anthem A5 and A2. I haven’t run ARC yet but will be doing so this weekend. For the subwoofers I use four Klipsch KW-120 THX subs with 2 KA-1000 sub amplifiers, My subs are rated at 20-200hz and I have them all together and placed them placed side by side. Been reading and researching for a long time before I made the purchase on a Anthem D2v3d but have used and love anthem amps for a while (also use a P2 in my 2 channel setup). At reference volume by setting the attenuator on my old pioneer elite receiver I was never heard any distortion whatsoever from my subs and they were up pretty loud. I just want to make sure not to have any problems before using the d2v3d. Should I just run Arc and trust its results? Thanks in advanced.
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post #42593 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 09:36 AM
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I'm not sure I follow, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? Or what problem are you trying to avoid?
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post #42594 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 09:52 AM
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Before starting use on the D2v wanted to make sure once arc is complete at high volumes there is distortion present in the four subs from LFE content. Bass has never been a problem but the lfe on my past subs (not these) would cause them to distort. Just curious if there is any lfe attenuation. I used to have my receiver at -5 to keep from some of the ultra low effects at high volumes from distorting the sub.
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post #42595 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 10:29 AM
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Yes, there is a button by the volume knob to adjust lfe trims on the fly.
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post #42596 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Let's forget deep color for a sec. It's not deep color at this point that is causing the issue. It's the color space.

My basic question is why RGB would cause problems along the HDMI chain but 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 would not.

Is there something particular to the Anthem that has potential issues with the RGB signal? Why would that specific setting cause fits?

Odds are the thing you are connecting to just isn't happy with an HDMI RGB handshake. Since Auto is also giving you problems it sounds like the response timing from the thing you are connecting to is slow

Try testing RGB at 480p output. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" HDMI signal. If that works, start going up in output resolution until you find where it doesn't work. Although cables and mechanical fit of plugs in sockets can cause handshake issues, just as many are caused by the chipsets not switching gears fast enough during the handshake. Early on, chipsets from different chip vendors frequently did not play well together for just this reason. In your case it could be some setting in the Display which is slowing down its ability to respond quickly enough during the handshake. What''s supposed to happen when the handshake fails is that this gets detected and a retry is initiated. The problem here is that the retry is not happening. I would tend to point the finger at the Display or the cables.
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post #42597 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Odds are the thing you are connecting to just isn't happy with an HDMI RGB handshake. Since Auto is also giving you problems it sounds like the response timing from the thing you are connecting to is slow

Try testing RGB at 480p output. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" HDMI signal. If that works, start going up in output resolution until you find where it doesn't work. Although cables and mechanical fit of plugs in sockets can cause handshake issues, just as many are caused by the chipsets not switching gears fast enough during the handshake. Early on, chipsets from different chip vendors frequently did not play well together for just this reason. In your case it could be some setting in the Display which is slowing down its ability to respond quickly enough during the handshake. What''s supposed to happen when the handshake fails is that this gets detected and a retry is initiated. The problem here is that the retry is not happening. I would tend to point the finger at the Display or the cables.
--Bob

Bob thanks for the response. I'll absolutely do that testing. I didn't think of doing that and that's an excellent point! Thanks a ton. I'll report back on my findings on that specifically in the hopes that if someone experiences a similar issue they will be able to go through these threads for reference.

I'm going to keep digging on this because I experienced a consistent problem across two different 3D Bluray players (although admittedly lower-end models). Both the Bluray players and display are 2013 models.

Just to ask the question: there's nothing in the Anthem that would be at fault?

My display is a brand new Panasonic ZT60 Plasma and I have the color set to Rec. 709.

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post #42598 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 01:18 PM
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Before starting use on the D2v wanted to make sure once arc is complete at high volumes there is distortion present in the four subs from LFE content. Bass has never been a problem but the lfe on my past subs (not these) would cause them to distort. Just curious if there is any lfe attenuation. I used to have my receiver at -5 to keep from some of the ultra low effects at high volumes from distorting the sub.

The second question is do you actually listen at reference level, I find that incredibly loud for home use (heck I find it a bit too loud at the theater too).

Regardless though, the ARC process will set the level trims for everything for you so you would have to run ARC first anyway. Also ARC will evaluate your sub's capabilities and apply a high pass filter which may help with distortion since it will reduce the output for frequencies your subs can't reproduce anyway.
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post #42599 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 01:41 PM
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Rarely listen at reference levels was just curios how it worked with arc. Excited to get it up and running though. It's been a long build
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post #42600 of 44617 Old 04-02-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Just to ask the question: there's nothing in the Anthem that would be at fault?

My display is a brand new Panasonic ZT60 Plasma and I have the color set to Rec. 709.

There's not a simple answer to that. I use RGB out of my D2v and it works just fine, so it's not as if the D2v can't do RGB at all. However in the world of HDMI there's a question as to just how far one device should go in its programming to adjust to quirks in other devices. Anthem has done of a ton of adjustments like that over time.

My suspicion is that there is some combo of settings in the Pany which is screwing up its HDMI handshake timing, particularly for RGB, but proving that would require some quality time with an HDMI data capture device.

Of course whatever info you collect you should write up for Anthem Tech Support. Odds are they already have some history on file for that Display. I'll be surprised if the answer is that it NEVER works with RGB, but they may have some info on settings that make it handshake more poorly.
--Bob

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