Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1459 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #43741 of 44960 Old 02-20-2015, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Do you have the RED video/HDMI board ?

Have you tried a reboot by disconnecting the AC line and restarting ?
Or maybe shuffling or swapping the source inputs as a test. Say swap TV for CD etc
I"m not sure about the color of the board. It'd be a PITA to take the unit out of the cabinet to see (plus remove all cables).
I've tried swapping inputs, and thought that was going to help, but the output drops no matter whether inputs are component or hdmi as I mentioned above.

I'll try to reboot. it'd be just great if it's just a little software issue. Just unplug it for a while and then restart?

This was in for service once before for a problematic HDMI input, I believe. When it came back, it had firmware 1.47f loaded and I was no longer able to load 1.33 (boot loader error, which others have had and Anthem claims requires a return to factory). So it's running 1.47f.

tx
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post #43742 of 44960 Old 02-20-2015, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
I"m not sure about the color of the board. It'd be a PITA to take the unit out of the cabinet to see (plus remove all cables).
I've tried swapping inputs, and thought that was going to help, but the output drops no matter whether inputs are component or hdmi as I mentioned above.

I'll try to reboot. it'd be just great if it's just a little software issue. Just unplug it for a while and then restart?

This was in for service once before for a problematic HDMI input, I believe. When it came back, it had firmware 1.47f loaded and I was no longer able to load 1.33 (boot loader error, which others have had and Anthem claims requires a return to factory). So it's running 1.47f.

tx
From your description of the install in such tight quarters it may be you are having a overheating problem.
Maybe try opening cabinet doors or a temp fan or other device to help cool the unit.

You can look down thru the slots in the cover and with small mirror and a flashlight see the board.

Disconnect or use the main switch to remove all AC. Wait a few minutes, maybe 10, and restart.

That is the correct firmware.

If none of this works a call to Anthem would be next

Last edited by thestewman; 02-20-2015 at 08:18 PM.
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post #43743 of 44960 Old 02-21-2015, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
From your description of the install in such tight quarters it may be you are having a overheating problem.
Maybe try opening cabinet doors or a temp fan or other device to help cool the unit.

You can look down thru the slots in the cover and with small mirror and a flashlight see the board.

Disconnect or use the main switch to remove all AC. Wait a few minutes, maybe 10, and restart.

That is the correct firmware.

If none of this works a call to Anthem would be next
I suppose heat is possible, but the problem is erratic. It can happen pretty quickly after turning on the system (5 minutes).

After the power reset failed to change things, I tried more cable/port combos and generally, it still cut out the video. BUT, the ROKU 3 ran continuously for nearly 2 hours with no drops. So I took the same HDMI cable from the ROKU and used it on the FIOS DVR box (same inputs, everything) and the image failed to display. I then returned that cable to the ROKU and the image displayed, then dropped immediately. I don't get it.

The Anthem is in a 3-bay Salamander cabinet which is open to the left (center bay/center speaker) and rear and has a mesh door on the front. It's on the upper shelf. Below it is a Rotel RMB-1095, but that has fins on the front, next to the mesh screen door. The space above the Anthem is about the same height as below it, meaning "feet height". I don't generally run the system hard, but over time, heat may be a concern. If I end up shipping the D2 to Anthem, I will relocate the amp.

This D2 has never liked HDMI from the Verizon FIOS box, so I used components there with an optical connection for audio.

For now, I've eliminated use of video switching, going directly to the TV so we can use the system
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post #43744 of 44960 Old 02-21-2015, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
I suppose heat is possible, but the problem is erratic. It can happen pretty quickly after turning on the system (5 minutes).

After the power reset failed to change things, I tried more cable/port combos and generally, it still cut out the video. BUT, the ROKU 3 ran continuously for nearly 2 hours with no drops. So I took the same HDMI cable from the ROKU and used it on the FIOS DVR box (same inputs, everything) and the image failed to display. I then returned that cable to the ROKU and the image displayed, then dropped immediately. I don't get it.

The Anthem is in a 3-bay Salamander cabinet which is open to the left (center bay/center speaker) and rear and has a mesh door on the front. It's on the upper shelf. Below it is a Rotel RMB-1095, but that has fins on the front, next to the mesh screen door. The space above the Anthem is about the same height as below it, meaning "feet height". I don't generally run the system hard, but over time, heat may be a concern. If I end up shipping the D2 to Anthem, I will relocate the amp.

This D2 has never liked HDMI from the Verizon FIOS box, so I used components there with an optical connection for audio.

For now, I've eliminated use of video switching, going directly to the TV so we can use the system
1. Buy or borrow a different HDMI cable your first response sure sounds like a cable problem.

2. Using a fan, leave all the cabinet doors open while using the system

3. I would call Anthem C/S and discuss this with them
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post #43745 of 44960 Old 02-23-2015, 10:49 AM
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Is there a thread that discusses features one wants in an ideal or next generation AV Pre-Pro?

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43746 of 44960 Old 02-25-2015, 07:29 AM
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Greetings,

I was hoping that some of you could review the following and let me know you thoughts on where I am.

Back in October I posted the following about my room set up and everyone was beyond helpful with their recommendations. Below is link to where the journey started

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide

I have been able to have the room measured and put up the appropriate room treatments. This improved things dramatically, however due to equipment issues I haven't been able to focus on buttoning this up as they say.

If some of you could take time out to review my ARC charts It would be appreciated. I did not amend the targets that were "auto detected" as I felt it was a good starting point. I am very pleased with the sound of Movies and TV. Music is a little boomy but very little.

Anyway attached are my arc charts and targets generated along with some picks of the new treatments
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post #43747 of 44960 Old 02-25-2015, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
Greetings,

I was hoping that some of you could review the following and let me know you thoughts on where I am.

Back in October I posted the following about my room set up and everyone was beyond helpful with their recommendations. Below is link to where the journey started

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide

I have been able to have the room measured and put up the appropriate room treatments. This improved things dramatically, however due to equipment issues I haven't been able to focus on buttoning this up as they say.

If some of you could take time out to review my ARC charts It would be appreciated. I did not amend the targets that were "auto detected" as I felt it was a good starting point. I am very pleased with the sound of Movies and TV. Music is a little boomy but very little.

Anyway attached are my arc charts and targets generated along with some picks of the new treatments
The auto detect targets would have been helpful, sorry
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Targets.png
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ID:	567073  
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post #43748 of 44960 Old 02-25-2015, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
The auto detect targets would have been helpful, sorry
From our friends at Anthem/Paradigm


The left front response falls short by a small amount in the crossover region around 80 Hz, but this is unlikely to be of consequence because while the graph shows a worst-case 2 dB drop after correction relative to target, with the subwoofer playing the same material, and the right front to some extent, the in-room level difference will be very small.
Some alternatives are reducing room gain to 3 dB, recommended only if the existing setup sounds a little bass-rich, or changing crossover frequency from 60 Hz to 80 Hz, although I’m a little hesitant to recommend this in a system consisting of P series amps and S8s, especially since this is more for the sake of the graphs than audible results.
The deciding factor is whichever configuration sounds best. The graphs are very good, with the only issue being a minor one that doesn’t necessarily call for any form of adjustment.


Technical Advisor | Paradigm/Anthem Support Team
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post #43749 of 44960 Old 02-25-2015, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
From our friends at Anthem/Paradigm


The left front response falls short by a small amount in the crossover region around 80 Hz, but this is unlikely to be of consequence because while the graph shows a worst-case 2 dB drop after correction relative to target, with the subwoofer playing the same material, and the right front to some extent, the in-room level difference will be very small.
Some alternatives are reducing room gain to 3 dB, recommended only if the existing setup sounds a little bass-rich, or changing crossover frequency from 60 Hz to 80 Hz, although I’m a little hesitant to recommend this in a system consisting of P series amps and S8s, especially since this is more for the sake of the graphs than audible results.
The deciding factor is whichever configuration sounds best. The graphs are very good, with the only issue being a minor one that doesn’t necessarily call for any form of adjustment.


Technical Advisor | Paradigm/Anthem Support Team
Very good you got someone at Anthem to respond to your charts. I agree with their assessment except.
You say it sounds a bit boomy or bass heavy.

I think it would be worth the effort to try this.

Raise the Left and Right front speaker lower cutoffs in the targets by 20Hz.
Rerun your ARC calculations and then if it looks good upload the results to your unit. Sit back and listen to the results.
I noticed you have either a Sub 1 or 2 in your room. Your charts indicate it is easily handling your bass demands without any distortion or bass boomyness.

Hopefully the output of the open reel tape deck is going to a stereo input set as analog direct so you get the full enjoyment
of the 2 track machine

Enjoy. Your room looks just like the sign at your entrance "Man Cave "
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post #43750 of 44960 Old 02-25-2015, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
From our friends at Anthem/Paradigm


The left front response falls short by a small amount in the crossover region around 80 Hz, but this is unlikely to be of consequence because while the graph shows a worst-case 2 dB drop after correction relative to target, with the subwoofer playing the same material, and the right front to some extent, the in-room level difference will be very small....
I think that the problem with your front-left could be because it is at the same distance from the backwall and sidewall. You should try something like 2 feet from the backwall and 3 feet from the sidewall. Your right-front is good so the speaker can do better (unless it is broken).
If moving around a little bit does not help you could swap the left and right to see if it is the speaker or the placement.
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The Beta FW 1.47f seems to have fixed my problems with handshaking (to a PRO-101FD) and I can now use my Darblet again!

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post #43752 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
Greetings,

I was hoping that some of you could review the following and let me know you thoughts on where I am.

Back in October I posted the following about my room set up and everyone was beyond helpful with their recommendations. Below is link to where the journey started

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide

I have been able to have the room measured and put up the appropriate room treatments. This improved things dramatically, however due to equipment issues I haven't been able to focus on buttoning this up as they say.

If some of you could take time out to review my ARC charts It would be appreciated. I did not amend the targets that were "auto detected" as I felt it was a good starting point. I am very pleased with the sound of Movies and TV. Music is a little boomy but very little.

Anyway attached are my arc charts and targets generated along with some picks of the new treatments
Update,

Last night I tried Anthem’s first recommendation and set the room gain to 3 (was 3.9+). The sound was “hollow” on both music and movies, where I had started was much better. I tried 3.5 & 3.7 before returning to the starting point, as they were not and improvement. At that point while listing I lowered the sub level to see what that would achieve. In doing so I came a bit closer to what I was looking or listing for. So I went back into ARC and reset the sub to Auto (was set on flat). That did take out some of the base issues I was experiencing, but in my mind an outcome between the Flat and Auto would be ideal.

This weekend I will try increasing the crossover settings in my fronts to see how that influences the sound. As tranle recommended I will work with the front left speaker placenta a little to see the results


Thanks Stew and tranle for your input. Any thoughts on what I attempted yesterday would be appreciate


And Stew, the Reel to Reel is out getting new heads, but it is hooked up via XLR and I have it set to Direct. Although if someone knows a crestron coded to switch between the dsp and direct I’m all ears
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post #43753 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
Update,

Last night I tried Anthem’s first recommendation and set the room gain to 3 (was 3.9+). The sound was “hollow” on both music and movies, where I had started was much better. I tried 3.5 & 3.7 before returning to the starting point, as they were not and improvement. At that point while listing I lowered the sub level to see what that would achieve. In doing so I came a bit closer to what I was looking or listing for. So I went back into ARC and reset the sub to Auto (was set on flat). That did take out some of the base issues I was experiencing, but in my mind an outcome between the Flat and Auto would be ideal.

This weekend I will try increasing the crossover settings in my fronts to see how that influences the sound. As tranle recommended I will work with the front left speaker placenta a little to see the results


Thanks Stew and tranle for your input. Any thoughts on what I attempted yesterday would be appreciate


And Stew, the Reel to Reel is out getting new heads, but it is hooked up via XLR and I have it set to Direct. Although if someone knows a crestron coded to switch between the dsp and direct I’m all ears
Front left speaker placement, not Placenta.

now thats funny
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post #43754 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 06:30 AM
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Front left speaker placement, not Placenta.

now thats funny

What brand of umbilical cords do you use? maybe that's causing the problem.
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post #43755 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
Last night I tried Anthem’s first recommendation and set the room gain to 3 (was 3.9+). The sound was “hollow” on both music and movies, where I had started was much better. I tried 3.5 & 3.7 before returning to the starting point, as they were not and improvement. At that point while listing I lowered the sub level to see what that would achieve. In doing so I came a bit closer to what I was looking or listing for. So I went back into ARC and reset the sub to Auto (was set on flat). That did take out some of the base issues I was experiencing, but in my mind an outcome between the Flat and Auto would be ideal.
I think you should be able to play with the SW High Pass Filter and Min EQ frequency to have that effect. In the Advanced Targets window.
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post #43756 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 10:00 AM
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I think you should be able to play with the SW High Pass Filter and Min EQ frequency to have that effect. In the Advanced Targets window.
Not familiar with how to utilize those. The Manual does not go into it. Maybe you could point me to a post where these were discussed?

Thanks
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post #43757 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 10:59 AM
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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide

^ have you tried eliminating the sub temporarily and set the main speakers to full range to see if you like the bass better on music?

You could also try without the Center speaker if you are using that for music.

"This one goes to eleven." Martin Logan Descent-i subwoofer

Last edited by AVfile; 02-27-2015 at 08:38 PM.
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post #43758 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 11:15 AM
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^ Good test indeed!


Great theatre BTW

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43759 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
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^ have you tried eliminating the sub altogether for music listening to make sure it is not the speakers that you simply don't like?
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
^ Good test indeed!


Great theatre BTW
Should probably make little difference since music contains very little if any LFE.
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post #43760 of 44960 Old 02-27-2015, 01:43 PM
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True but his speakers can play down to 30Hz which many bass notes from Jazz, drums and Organ notes reside. The mains will not have the same heft as the subwoofer in the bass notes however...

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43761 of 44960 Old 02-28-2015, 07:21 AM
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gerard1meehan,
How do you listen to your music?? I'm not concerned about how many glasses of wine you have while listening, just how many speakers are you using when listening to music?
I have a 6.1 setupand use all speakers and subs for movies and sports. I prefer my music in stereo. Since my fronts are bookshelf's I include my subs and use 2.1 for music. I do separate movie and music runs during my ARC readings. ARC consistently sets my room gain and sub level for music 1-2 dB less and it sounds excellent. Plenty of punch for lfe in movies and smooth, tight bass for music.


With your fronts (look like S8's?) setting them to full range and doing a music run with just those 2 speakers (no sub) would be my suggestion. It takes a little longer to do the ARC run when you do both movie and music sweeps. In your case it would take 1/3 to 1/4 the time to do music compared to movie. I can't tell if you run 5.1 or 7.1 for movie. Well worth the little time it takes. 'N'-ing out speakers in a 'same as' run does not work as well as doing separate movie and music runs. In my experience it leaves the room gain the same and makes music bass boomy.


If you do listen to your music in stereo (or even in Anthem Logic Music) do a separate ARC music run for just the speakers you're using. It will take a little extra time, but it looks like you are willing to spend the time (and bucks) to get it right. I second dmusoke's Great theatre BTW.


Tom
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post #43762 of 44960 Old 03-02-2015, 07:07 AM
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Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to work on my left speaker placement or any of the other items I was going to try this weekend to resolve my “Boomy or Base heavy issues” . Other responsibilities cropped up.

But late Friday while watching a movie it dawned on me that I had changed the distance setting of my sub after I ran and uploaded ARC. I had changed the position of my sub and my front right speaker and neglected to change the distances in the processor prior to running. When I reviewed the settings after uploading arc I changed the distance from 13.5 to 11.5.

So I just put it back to the 13.5 and the base issue was gone. I do have to re-measure the distances and I will re-measure ARC.. But with any luck this is it. As of right now it sounds the best it ever has

Will advise




As for How do I listen to music. Best way to state it would be as the media I’m listing to was intended to be heard. I do not eliminate any of my speakers for my Music Arc calculations. If the track I am listing to was mastered in Stereo I listen to it in Stereo. If it’s 5.1 or 3.1, or even 4.1 I do the same

On analog inputs as in my Turntable our Reel to reel I swap between Analogue direct and DSP
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post #43763 of 44960 Old 03-02-2015, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to work on my left speaker placement or any of the other items I was going to try this weekend to resolve my “Boomy or Base heavy issues” . Other responsibilities cropped up.

But late Friday while watching a movie it dawned on me that I had changed the distance setting of my sub after I ran and uploaded ARC. I had changed the position of my sub and my front right speaker and neglected to change the distances in the processor prior to running. When I reviewed the settings after uploading arc I changed the distance from 13.5 to 11.5.

So I just put it back to the 13.5 and the base issue was gone. I do have to re-measure the distances and I will re-measure ARC.. But with any luck this is it. As of right now it sounds the best it ever has
Technically since the "room" changed (you moved speakers, so it will sound different) then you should have to re-measure with ARC. If you had just goofed up the distance then you wouldn't have to remeasure.

That said, boomy base that depends on distance settings sounds like a phase matching issue, you might want to try making sure you've got your sub/mains in phase and then re-run ARC. I think there are instructions in this thread on how to set phase.
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post #43764 of 44960 Old 03-02-2015, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to work on my left speaker placement or any of the other items I was going to try this weekend to resolve my “Boomy or Base heavy issues” . Other responsibilities cropped up.

But late Friday while watching a movie it dawned on me that I had changed the distance setting of my sub after I ran and uploaded ARC. I had changed the position of my sub and my front right speaker and neglected to change the distances in the processor prior to running. When I reviewed the settings after uploading arc I changed the distance from 13.5 to 11.5.

So I just put it back to the 13.5 and the base issue was gone. I do have to re-measure the distances and I will re-measure ARC.. But with any luck this is it. As of right now it sounds the best it ever has

Will advise




As for How do I listen to music. Best way to state it would be as the media I’m listing to was intended to be heard. I do not eliminate any of my speakers for my Music Arc calculations. If the track I am listing to was mastered in Stereo I listen to it in Stereo. If it’s 5.1 or 3.1, or even 4.1 I do the same

On analog inputs as in my Turntable our Reel to reel I swap between Analogue direct and DSP

Is the position of the speakers now the same as they were when you ran ARC?? It was not clear to me.
If they are, you do NOT need to re-run ARC. Speaker distance can be put in before or after the ARC run. They just need to be put in correctly. A tape measure and a friend are all that are needed.
As far as sub distance you may want to read the link in dmusoke's signature on how to best set sub distance.
If you use his technique you will need an SPL meter.


If the speaker placement has changed and you do need to re-run ARC then you may want to consider doing a separate movie/music runs IF you listen to the majority of your music in stereo. I have a few SACD's and DVD-A's that are encoded in 5.1 that I play on my oppo 103D in surround using my ARC movie configuration. DSOTM for instance. But I listen to 99.5% of my music in stereo, so I set up a separate music configuration for 2.1 in ARC. I think it works better than playing stereo thru a 5.1/7.1 ARC configuration, since it is specific to the speakers being used. Not drastically better, but noticeably better. My 2 cents.


Tom

"When all else fails, read the manual."
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post #43765 of 44960 Old 03-02-2015, 08:56 AM
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The speakers were moved prior to ARC measurements. I changed the distance in the processors menu after I ran and uploaded ARC.

But I want to tweak my Left front so I'll measure the distances again and re-run the full ARC process.

Appreciate everyone taking time to help out

thanks
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post #43766 of 44960 Old 03-03-2015, 09:32 AM
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I have a problem. This has just happened. My D2v is stuck in pcm and 2 channel. On all devices that I try to play. Any suggestions or is the processor fried?
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post #43767 of 44960 Old 03-03-2015, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by mothaselin View Post
I have a problem. This has just happened. My D2v is stuck in pcm and 2 channel. On all devices that I try to play. Any suggestions or is the processor fried?
have you tried loading factory defaults?
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post #43768 of 44960 Old 03-03-2015, 12:36 PM
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I guess I am going to try that when I get back from work.
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post #43769 of 44960 Old 03-05-2015, 07:55 AM
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D2V question...

I recently upgraded from a D2 to a D2V. Blu Ray player is a Oppo 103. With the change, I now bit-stream from the Oppo to the D2V. I've watched about 5 movies. Twice during playback, the sound went completely silent. When I checked, it was showing PCM instead of DTS MA or TruHD...and no sound at all. Switching to a different input, then back, fixed the issue. Fist time it happened, I thought I may have had a dirty disk. The second time it happened was a networked .mkv file--so I know it's not a disk problem. Any ideas...I recall hearing some possible issues with dropouts while bitstreaming...but assumed those had all been fixed by now. Firmware on both should be most up to date.

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post #43770 of 44960 Old 03-05-2015, 09:15 AM
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Sounds like audio got muted due to a failure of the periodic Copy Protection check which happens during playback. This is a type of HDMI failure.

Check your HDMI cables. It may be as simple as the plugs are not fully inserted in the sockets. HDMI is only friction fit, and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Check that nothing (e.g., cable weight) is tugging on the plugs. New cables may still have kinks in them causing such tugging. Unplug and replug each end.

The D2v (unlike the D2) supports Deep Color video signals. If you have that turned on in the OPPO that puts more bandwidth on the HDMI cable. If your HDMI cables are marginal for their length that too can cause HDMI issues. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be the cables on either side of the D2v.
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