Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1461 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #43801 of 44960 Old 03-19-2015, 07:27 PM
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Hello
I have a stupid question. When using THX. After the THX movie I hit stop on my Oppo. The front panel will display either 2.0 Games THX, or Prologic II +THX or PCM Prologic II mov, and once AL Music. Is this normal to have 4 different audio formats to flash on the front panel? Im not saying all 4 formats at once or 1 right after each other. After each movie I get 1 of the 4. I was under the impression just 1 format will come across the front panel for THX. For instance just Prologic II + THX for every movie. The thx movies were 5.1 ultra
Forgive my stupid question.

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post #43802 of 44960 Old 03-19-2015, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Suggestion:

Why bother passing the Verizon Fios video to the Oppo when your Samsung has excellent upscaling to 4K.You are double processing the video for no extra benefit
Try using HDMI from the Verizon Fios directly to the D2 and then to your Samsung
Use the OPPO for disk and audio file playback directly to the D2 or split the video and audio as you do now but not the Fios video
Since the Oppo is an excellent scaler for cable programs, he can have the Oppo upscale to 4K directly and feed that into the Samsung. Then HDMI2 output into the D2.

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43803 of 44960 Old 03-19-2015, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
Since the Oppo is an excellent scaler for cable programs, he can have the Oppo upscale to 4K directly and feed that into the Samsung. Then HDMI2 output into the D2.
I understand. But apparently there is a HDMI handshake issue. The Samsung has one of the best 4k upscalers in the industry.
It is not necessary to upscale it more than once and maybe bypass the OPPO HDMI handshake issue
I do not have Verizon Fios HDMI only Comcast cable which is 1080i.
I see no difference if I bypass the OPPO, or my D2v , and go directly to the Sony 4k and the display upscales to 4K.
Again it was only a suggestion to get around the HDMI handshake issue.
It is worth a try
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post #43804 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
This is a general question that affects all pre-pros including the Anthem units...


Why do they have such large output voltages, in some cases as large as 20 volts or more when most amps (if not all) deliver full power at 2vrms or less? The resistance and capacitance of long XLR and RCA interconnects are so low that losses would be extremely low...

I don't believe they all deliver full power at only 2 volts. If you plug your CD player directly into your power amp it will be "loud" but not the loudest possible sound.

2v single-ended (or 4v balanced) is just standard "line level" which you should get with the volume control at 0 dB playing a test tone recorded at a standard "reference level". Remember that recordings can contain additional "headroom" and a preamp can deliver additional gain beyond that, so that's where the extra voltage can come in. I believe the AVM/D2 goes to +10 dB on the volume control.

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post #43805 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 11:37 AM
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Reading up on the input sensitivity specs of most power amplifiers one see that number is mostly 2 volts or less. My Sunfire seven channel 400W/Channel amplifier states a sensitivity of 2v rca and 0.95V balanced.


Have you tried playing a 2Vrms sine wave into your power amp inputs? Chances are your ears will not like it for long...

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630

Last edited by dmusoke; 03-20-2015 at 11:44 AM.
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post #43806 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
I understand. But apparently there is a HDMI handshake issue. The Samsung has one of the best 4k upscalers in the industry.
It is not necessary to upscale it more than once and maybe bypass the OPPO HDMI handshake issue
I do not have Verizon Fios HDMI only Comcast cable which is 1080i.
I see no difference if I bypass the OPPO, or my D2v , and go directly to the Sony 4k and the display upscales to 4K.
Again it was only a suggestion to get around the HDMI handshake issue.
It is worth a try
I agree ...to minize HDMI handshakes you need to go direct like you suggested.

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43807 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
I agree ...to minize HDMI handshakes you need to go direct like you suggested.
Thank you guys for your help. I will try tomorrow.
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post #43808 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
Reading up on the input sensitivity specs of most power amplifiers one see that number is mostly 2 volts or less. My Sunfire seven channel 400W/Channel amplifier states a sensitivity of 2v rca and 0.95V balanced.


Have you tried playing a 2Vrms sine wave into your power amp inputs? Chances are your ears will not like it for long...
The D2v specs only say Rated Output 2.0 vrms,

Max at RCA 6.3 vrms and Balanced 12.6vrms not 20 vrms
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post #43809 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 03:47 PM
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The original 20V max output spec was a general one for pre-pros / preamps in general. But the question still remains as to why it has to be that high (12.6vrms for the D2 for example) when the required voltage for full-power for the power-amps they feed into is 2V or less for most (if not all) consumer power amps.

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43810 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 05:33 PM
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Is anyone experiencing dimmed pixels on their D2/D2v display? I have a D2 and some of the pixels in the letters/characters are not as bright as the rest. Is there any fix for this aside from buying a new unit? Interestingly I have an older D1 and the display still looks as if it was still new.
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post #43811 of 44960 Old 03-20-2015, 05:47 PM
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In my situation, I have the case of the flashing blue lights which blink rapidly after many fast forwards or reverses or program skips from my cable box or Oppo player. Pressing any button on the remote stops it....until the next FF/FR event.

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43812 of 44960 Old 03-21-2015, 06:00 AM
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Anyone try contacting Anthem tech support (by email) lately? I sent out an email (supportatanthemavdotcom) a few months ago and didn't hear anything back. I called them shortly afterwards and my minor questions were answered. This week I was actually looking for some support for my aging D1-hd but no reply to an email. Back in the day I knew that either Nick, Andrew, or Frank would reply to my emails fairly quickly. I did get the generic email back from Anthem saying they received my email...

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post #43813 of 44960 Old 03-22-2015, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jviggi View Post
Thank you guys for your help. I will try tomorrow.
One more issue for all of you real smart guys. The Samsung TV has the Audio Return Channel(arc) but I don't think my D2 (non 3D) accepts ARC.I have an optical cable from the TV to the OPT input #1 on the Anthem. When I watch YouTube or USB movies on the TV the audio is fine going through the D2. When I stream Amazon on the TV there is no sound coming from the A/V system.There is sound from the TV speakers so I know sound is there but it will not get processed through the Anthem.It only affects Amazon.I have tried to set the TV output to bitstream or PCM but neither one works. Is there something weird with Amazon streaming or Samsung?
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post #43814 of 44960 Old 03-22-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
I suppose heat is possible, but the problem is erratic. It can happen pretty quickly after turning on the system (5 minutes).

After the power reset failed to change things, I tried more cable/port combos and generally, it still cut out the video. BUT, the ROKU 3 ran continuously for nearly 2 hours with no drops. So I took the same HDMI cable from the ROKU and used it on the FIOS DVR box (same inputs, everything) and the image failed to display. I then returned that cable to the ROKU and the image displayed, then dropped immediately. I don't get it.

The Anthem is in a 3-bay Salamander cabinet which is open to the left (center bay/center speaker) and rear and has a mesh door on the front. It's on the upper shelf. Below it is a Rotel RMB-1095, but that has fins on the front, next to the mesh screen door. The space above the Anthem is about the same height as below it, meaning "feet height". I don't generally run the system hard, but over time, heat may be a concern. If I end up shipping the D2 to Anthem, I will relocate the amp.

This D2 has never liked HDMI from the Verizon FIOS box, so I used components there with an optical connection for audio.

For now, I've eliminated use of video switching, going directly to the TV so we can use the system
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
Hi folks. I have an Anthem D2 which has started having some issues.

The video drops out periodically and stays out until the Anthem is rebooted. This happens on component and HDMI connections from the FIOS cable box (Motorola DVR or non-DVR both the same). Sound does not drop.

Curiously, an HDMI connection from a ROKU 3 to the D2 does NOT drop out nearly as much, taking over an hour. I'm not convinced it's heat-related, but it is possible.

I have also swapped the cable box, and have the same result. So the issue is with the Anthem, it seems

Input Output to TV Issue
HDMI HDMI video dropout
Component HDMI video dropout
Component component video dropout

Is this a symptom of a dying video board? This will be the second repair on this beast (the first for HDMI input ports).

Anything else to try before contacting Anthem?
Thanks.
UPDATE: I spoke with Anthem and they are thinking this may be a video board power supply issue. I re-routed all video around the D2 and the images are fine going direct to the TV on any variety of cables. And it's been working for a while before this, so something has changed to make the video flaky. I'm also getting sound dropouts for about 1/2 second periodically. Less so, now that the video is not routed through the D2, but it still happens. I'm going to send it in for repair (sigh).
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post #43815 of 44960 Old 03-22-2015, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
I agree ...to minize HDMI handshakes you need to go direct like you suggested.
The Anthem must not like the handshake with the new Samsung smart TV. I only have Verizon going to the HDMI #1 of the D2 and out to the TV. The video always comes on but the audio does not work at all.I have tried to turn off and turn on each in a different sequence and it is always the same;No Audio. This has turned an exciting time of purchasing a 65" 4K UHD TV into a disaster.It is a good thing the TV has speakers or it would just be a picture on the wall.
I don't think there is anything left to do except Dr HDMI. Would it go between the Verizon box and the Anthem or between the Samsung TV and the Anthem. I am not sure how it works or if it makes a difference.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The only other thing to do is to replace the Anthem!
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post #43816 of 44960 Old 03-22-2015, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jviggi View Post
The Anthem must not like the handshake with the new Samsung smart TV. I only have Verizon going to the HDMI #1 of the D2 and out to the TV. The video always comes on but the audio does not work at all.I have tried to turn off and turn on each in a different sequence and it is always the same;No Audio. This has turned an exciting time of purchasing a 65" 4K UHD TV into a disaster.It is a good thing the TV has speakers or it would just be a picture on the wall.
I don't think there is anything left to do except Dr HDMI. Would it go between the Verizon box and the Anthem or between the Samsung TV and the Anthem. I am not sure how it works or if it makes a difference.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The only other thing to do is to replace the Anthem!
Connected it back with the OPPO to the original configuration and now it works (at least for 1 time). Sorry guy's, I won't bother you with my frustrations.
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post #43817 of 44960 Old 03-22-2015, 03:35 PM
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Connected it back with the OPPO to the original configuration and now it works (at least for 1 time). Sorry guy's, I won't bother you with my frustrations.
Are you sure you have the Source setup correctly ?

It might pay to Double check

Scaler Input (C) should be the HDMI # with the video
Audio In (Line G) should be Dig HDMI

And if your display is like any other you need to change the audio to an external connection.to turn off the displays audio

Like stated before the Roku 3 has software problems
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post #43818 of 44960 Old 03-22-2015, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
UPDATE: I spoke with Anthem and they are thinking this may be a video board power supply issue. I re-routed all video around the D2 and the images are fine going direct to the TV on any variety of cables. And it's been working for a while before this, so something has changed to make the video flaky. I'm also getting sound dropouts for about 1/2 second periodically. Less so, now that the video is not routed through the D2, but it still happens. I'm going to send it in for repair (sigh).
It is hard to interpret what you are stating as some statements appear contradictory.
The Roku if a Roku 3 has known software problems. Check their user forum.

If you experience dropouts, audio or video when bypassing the Anthem maybe the Verizon box has problems.
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post #43819 of 44960 Old 03-22-2015, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
It is hard to interpret what you are stating as some statements appear contradictory.
The Roku if a Roku 3 has known software problems. Check their user forum.

If you experience dropouts, audio or video when bypassing the Anthem maybe the Verizon box has problems.
Thanks. The video dropout only occurs when video goes thru the Anthem D2. Verizon box and Roku inputs both do this. Audio dropouts continue whether the video is routed through the D2 or not. Less on the Roku, but definitely on the Verizon. So at least the Video is related to the D2.

I will go read about Roku 3 (which is what I have) issues. perhaps both it and the Verizon box suffer from this. I had no problems using a Panasonic Blu-ray recently, and also seemed OK for the NAD DVD/CD player for audio. So maybe that's the explanation for the audio. that'd be a little good news at least. Thank you for the tip!
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post #43820 of 44960 Old 03-23-2015, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post
This week I was actually looking for some support for my aging D1-hd but no reply to an email.
Sorry for the delay - we added three support reps a few days ago and the three existing ones are providing the training in addition to their regular work.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43821 of 44960 Old 03-23-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
But the question still remains as to why it has to be that high (12.6vrms for the D2 for example) when the required voltage for full-power for the power-amps they feed into is 2V or less for most (if not all) consumer power amps.
2Vrms is just enough for a 400W amp with 29 dB voltage gain. Such an amp has 56.6Vrms between its output terminals when playing at maximum unclipped output into 8 ohms.

Some amps use more than 2V to reach their full output, for example 4.5V in the case of the 1000W Statement M1. Other amps have less than 29 dB gain, requiring correspondingly higher input voltage.

With balanced connection the voltage figure inherently doubles because while one phase is sitting at +2V, for example, the other phase mirrors it at -2V. Difference = 4V.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43822 of 44960 Old 03-23-2015, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
Sorry for the delay - we added three support reps a few days ago and the three existing ones are providing the training in addition to their regular work.
Hi Nick, thanks for chiming in. I'll wait for an email reply.

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post #43823 of 44960 Old 03-23-2015, 05:41 PM
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Nick,
I hope you don't mind if I may be repeating a previously asked question, but I don't feel like wading through 1400+ pages of this thread right now. When do we hope to have Atmos in either an MRX or AVM or Statement Dx product?

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post #43824 of 44960 Old 03-24-2015, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Are you sure you have the Source setup correctly ?

It might pay to Double check

Scaler Input (C) should be the HDMI # with the video
Audio In (Line G) should be Dig HDMI

And if your display is like any other you need to change the audio to an external connection.to turn off the displays audio

Like stated before the Roku 3 has software problems
Thanks, I did double check.I am not sure what you mean about the audio. Are you talking about switching the output on the TV. If so I have done that. Thanks again.
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post #43825 of 44960 Old 03-24-2015, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by HiFiGuy1 View Post
When do we hope to have Atmos in either an MRX or AVM or Statement Dx product?
UHD Blu-ray and DTS:X among other things are in the mix in addition to Dolby Atmos. More info will become available as the usual annual trade shows or mass production approach.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43826 of 44960 Old 03-24-2015, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
2Vrms is just enough for a 400W amp with 29 dB voltage gain. Such an amp has 56.6Vrms between its output terminals when playing at maximum unclipped output into 8 ohms.

Some amps use more than 2V to reach their full output, for example 4.5V in the case of the 1000W Statement M1. Other amps have less than 29 dB gain, requiring correspondingly higher input voltage.

With balanced connection the voltage figure inherently doubles because while one phase is sitting at +2V, for example, the other phase mirrors it at -2V. Difference = 4V.

So the answer is all about amplifier gain, right?. Those amps with low gain need higher input voltage to maximize their output power. That makes sense now...

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43827 of 44960 Old 03-25-2015, 12:47 AM
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Dying Front Panel Display Pixels

Quote:
Originally Posted by leeshanok View Post
Is anyone experiencing dimmed pixels on their D2/D2v display? I have a D2 and some of the pixels in the letters/characters are not as bright as the rest. Is there any fix for this aside from buying a new unit? Interestingly I have an older D1 and the display still looks as if it was still new.
Mine too are dying one by one. Emailed tech support more than 6 weeks ago, but no response so far.
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post #43828 of 44960 Old 03-25-2015, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by benleeys View Post
Mine too are dying one by one. Emailed tech support more than 6 weeks ago, but no response so far.
After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.

www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php

I suspect the only fix for pixel burn-in is a new display or front panel circuit assembly.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43829 of 44960 Old 03-25-2015, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
So the answer is all about amplifier gain, right?
Amp gain *and* max output. Average voltage into high-powered amp with average gain = average output. A 29 dB gain 1000W amp fed with 2V puts out 400W. To get all 1000W the volume needs to be turned up. In this situation a preamp that doesn't put out more than 2V would clip long before the amp gets anywhere near its full output. On the other hand a 29 dB gain 100W amp reaches its full output with 1Vrms input.

The other solution is higher gain in high-powered amps, but this could affect their noise floor and/or cause level mismatch beyond the adjustment range in the level calibration menu when using high-powered amps for the front channels and average-powered amps for the surrounds. PA amps have adjustable input level, often on their front panels, for similar reasons.
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The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43830 of 44960 Old 03-25-2015, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.

www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php

If you have a moment please look up case 8291 - I did reply to the standard email I got back after filling out the webform but still haven't heard anything.

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