Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1462 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #43831 of 43851 Old 03-22-2015, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jviggi View Post
Connected it back with the OPPO to the original configuration and now it works (at least for 1 time). Sorry guy's, I won't bother you with my frustrations.
Are you sure you have the Source setup correctly ?

It might pay to Double check

Scaler Input (C) should be the HDMI # with the video
Audio In (Line G) should be Dig HDMI

And if your display is like any other you need to change the audio to an external connection.to turn off the displays audio

Like stated before the Roku 3 has software problems
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post #43832 of 43851 Old 03-22-2015, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
UPDATE: I spoke with Anthem and they are thinking this may be a video board power supply issue. I re-routed all video around the D2 and the images are fine going direct to the TV on any variety of cables. And it's been working for a while before this, so something has changed to make the video flaky. I'm also getting sound dropouts for about 1/2 second periodically. Less so, now that the video is not routed through the D2, but it still happens. I'm going to send it in for repair (sigh).
It is hard to interpret what you are stating as some statements appear contradictory.
The Roku if a Roku 3 has known software problems. Check their user forum.

If you experience dropouts, audio or video when bypassing the Anthem maybe the Verizon box has problems.
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post #43833 of 43851 Old 03-22-2015, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
It is hard to interpret what you are stating as some statements appear contradictory.
The Roku if a Roku 3 has known software problems. Check their user forum.

If you experience dropouts, audio or video when bypassing the Anthem maybe the Verizon box has problems.
Thanks. The video dropout only occurs when video goes thru the Anthem D2. Verizon box and Roku inputs both do this. Audio dropouts continue whether the video is routed through the D2 or not. Less on the Roku, but definitely on the Verizon. So at least the Video is related to the D2.

I will go read about Roku 3 (which is what I have) issues. perhaps both it and the Verizon box suffer from this. I had no problems using a Panasonic Blu-ray recently, and also seemed OK for the NAD DVD/CD player for audio. So maybe that's the explanation for the audio. that'd be a little good news at least. Thank you for the tip!
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post #43834 of 43851 Old 03-23-2015, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post
This week I was actually looking for some support for my aging D1-hd but no reply to an email.
Sorry for the delay - we added three support reps a few days ago and the three existing ones are providing the training in addition to their regular work.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43835 of 43851 Old 03-23-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
But the question still remains as to why it has to be that high (12.6vrms for the D2 for example) when the required voltage for full-power for the power-amps they feed into is 2V or less for most (if not all) consumer power amps.
2Vrms is just enough for a 400W amp with 29 dB voltage gain. Such an amp has 56.6Vrms between its output terminals when playing at maximum unclipped output into 8 ohms.

Some amps use more than 2V to reach their full output, for example 4.5V in the case of the 1000W Statement M1. Other amps have less than 29 dB gain, requiring correspondingly higher input voltage.

With balanced connection the voltage figure inherently doubles because while one phase is sitting at +2V, for example, the other phase mirrors it at -2V. Difference = 4V.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43836 of 43851 Old 03-23-2015, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
Sorry for the delay - we added three support reps a few days ago and the three existing ones are providing the training in addition to their regular work.
Hi Nick, thanks for chiming in. I'll wait for an email reply.

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post #43837 of 43851 Old 03-23-2015, 05:41 PM
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Nick,
I hope you don't mind if I may be repeating a previously asked question, but I don't feel like wading through 1400+ pages of this thread right now. When do we hope to have Atmos in either an MRX or AVM or Statement Dx product?

You have to hand it to Venus de Milo..., otherwise she would starve.

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post #43838 of 43851 Old 03-24-2015, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Are you sure you have the Source setup correctly ?

It might pay to Double check

Scaler Input (C) should be the HDMI # with the video
Audio In (Line G) should be Dig HDMI

And if your display is like any other you need to change the audio to an external connection.to turn off the displays audio

Like stated before the Roku 3 has software problems
Thanks, I did double check.I am not sure what you mean about the audio. Are you talking about switching the output on the TV. If so I have done that. Thanks again.
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post #43839 of 43851 Old 03-24-2015, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by HiFiGuy1 View Post
When do we hope to have Atmos in either an MRX or AVM or Statement Dx product?
UHD Blu-ray and DTS:X among other things are in the mix in addition to Dolby Atmos. More info will become available as the usual annual trade shows or mass production approach.
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post #43840 of 43851 Old 03-24-2015, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
2Vrms is just enough for a 400W amp with 29 dB voltage gain. Such an amp has 56.6Vrms between its output terminals when playing at maximum unclipped output into 8 ohms.

Some amps use more than 2V to reach their full output, for example 4.5V in the case of the 1000W Statement M1. Other amps have less than 29 dB gain, requiring correspondingly higher input voltage.

With balanced connection the voltage figure inherently doubles because while one phase is sitting at +2V, for example, the other phase mirrors it at -2V. Difference = 4V.

So the answer is all about amplifier gain, right?. Those amps with low gain need higher input voltage to maximize their output power. That makes sense now...

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43841 of 43851 Old 03-25-2015, 12:47 AM
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Dying Front Panel Display Pixels

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Originally Posted by leeshanok View Post
Is anyone experiencing dimmed pixels on their D2/D2v display? I have a D2 and some of the pixels in the letters/characters are not as bright as the rest. Is there any fix for this aside from buying a new unit? Interestingly I have an older D1 and the display still looks as if it was still new.
Mine too are dying one by one. Emailed tech support more than 6 weeks ago, but no response so far.
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post #43842 of 43851 Old 03-25-2015, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by benleeys View Post
Mine too are dying one by one. Emailed tech support more than 6 weeks ago, but no response so far.
After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.

www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php

I suspect the only fix for pixel burn-in is a new display or front panel circuit assembly.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43843 of 43851 Old 03-25-2015, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
So the answer is all about amplifier gain, right?
Amp gain *and* max output. Average voltage into high-powered amp with average gain = average output. A 29 dB gain 1000W amp fed with 2V puts out 400W. To get all 1000W the volume needs to be turned up. In this situation a preamp that doesn't put out more than 2V would clip long before the amp gets anywhere near its full output. On the other hand a 29 dB gain 100W amp reaches its full output with 1Vrms input.

The other solution is higher gain in high-powered amps, but this could affect their noise floor and/or cause level mismatch beyond the adjustment range in the level calibration menu when using high-powered amps for the front channels and average-powered amps for the surrounds. PA amps have adjustable input level, often on their front panels, for similar reasons.
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post #43844 of 43851 Old 03-25-2015, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.

www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php

If you have a moment please look up case 8291 - I did reply to the standard email I got back after filling out the webform but still haven't heard anything.

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post #43845 of 43851 Old 03-25-2015, 06:11 PM
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@Nick I think I speak for many in saying thanks for visiting the forum every now and again. You don't need to do it and just wanted to express gratitude.

Last edited by Thxtheater; 03-25-2015 at 06:12 PM.
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post #43846 of 43851 Old 03-26-2015, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post
If you have a moment please look up case 8291 - I did reply to the standard email I got back after filling out the webform but still haven't heard anything.
John sent a reply yesterday, maybe at around the same time of your post - could you confirm whether it was received?

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43847 of 43851 Old 03-26-2015, 07:45 AM
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@Nick I think I speak for many in saying thanks for visiting the forum every now and again. You don't need to do it and just wanted to express gratitude.
Thanks, I enjoy being involved as time permits.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #43848 of 43851 Old 03-26-2015, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
John sent a reply yesterday, maybe at around the same time of your post - could you confirm whether it was received?
I did get it - thanks.

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post #43849 of 43851 Old 03-26-2015, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.

www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php

I suspect the only fix for pixel burn-in is a new display or front panel circuit assembly.
Thanks, Nick, for your kind response. Email sent.
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post #43850 of 43851 Unread Yesterday, 07:59 PM
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Help with Dolby Volume Issue

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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
^ Well it sounds like you may have a hardware problem for the Headphone output. I doubt that's related to your XBOX problem, but when a portion of the hardware is faulty, it's hard to know.<br><br>
On the XBOX problem, are you using Bitstream of LPCM audio input? Have you tried them both?<br><br>
You've checked to see that the firmware in the XBOX is up to date, right?<br>
--Bob
Hello Bob,

This is my first attempt at posting anything so I hope this makes it to the board and to you. I have been experiencing an issue when using Dolby Volume that results in my getting short static like popping/crackling when playing primarily the DTS MA track of blu-ray discs. In trying to research the cause and find a fix I was lead here. I am hoping you or someone else on the forum can suggest a fix for this issue besides just not using the feature with blu-rays which was the fix suggested by Andrew Cirurgiao at Anthem.

I am experiencing an issue with Dolby Volume. It occurs when playing blu-ray concert discs via my Oppo BDP-83. My settings are as follows:

Processor Version: Statement D2v 3D
Firmware Version: 3.10
Dolby Volume Setting: Cinema
Dolby Vol Level Setting: Off
Half Mode Setting: On
Dolby Vol Cal Setting: Any
Anthem D2V Master Volume Setting: Any (Seems to occur at all volume levels above zero [-95.5dB].)
The Dolby Vol Auto Gain graphic in the on screen status display shows the + sign in the third position of the 11 step graphic line or: L_ _+_ _+_ _ _ _ _H

The problem is that a short static like popping occurs seemingly at random when playing/listening to the concert discs. This static like popping is usually very short in duration and sounds somewhat like if there is a short in a mic or speaker cable and the cable is moved, triggering the crackle/static like popping sound.

I have tried various blu-ray discs and both hi-rez codec’s: Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master Audio. It seems that the issue occurs much more often when playing the DTS Master Audio track than when playing the Dolby True HD audio track. In fact, when playing the “Rolling Stones – Shine a Light” blu-ray which has both audio tracks on the disc, the Dolby True HD track plays perfectly but the DTS Master Audio track of the exact same song exhibits the problem. I am unsure if this is a coincidence or if the Dolby Volume feature “behaves better” when processing Dolby type audio (Dolby TrueHD) than when processing the DTS MA track.

With Dolby Volume off this short static like popping does not occur when playing discs in either audio codec.

Is there a setting change, a firmware update or another action that can be done to eliminate this issue?

Thank you very much for your help!
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post #43851 of 43851 Unread Today, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenonAVFreak View Post
I am hoping you or someone else on the forum can suggest a fix for this issue besides just not using the feature with blu-rays which was the fix suggested by Andrew Cirurgiao at Anthem.

With Dolby Volume off this short static like popping does not occur when playing discs in either audio codec.

Is there a setting change, a firmware update or another action that can be done to eliminate this issue?

Thank you very much for your help!

I'm not Bob, but Andrew is right. There is no reason to use Dolby Volume for disc playback since each disc, whether movie or music, should be recorded at a consistent level. Dolby Volume is made to be used for sources like cable or satellite where there may be volume differences between channels.

Since playback is fine without DV, and since DV is not needed, turn it off for all sources other than cable/satellite.


If you do a search on this thread for 'dolby volume' you will find that it is often more of a hindrance than a help, and most here don't use it for any source. DV is adding nothing to your listening enjoyment except an unnecessary layer of processing that is lessening your enjoyment. Just turn it off and enjoy.


Tom

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