Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1464 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #43891 of 44960 Old 05-07-2015, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post
When I change the Oppo to LPCM then the D2v works fine.

UPDATE:: I unplugged the D2v, disconnected all inputs/outputs, pressed the power button twice, then reconnected everything and now it works!!

Did you change it back to Bitstream and confirm that it wasn't working again BEFORE unplugging it?

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post #43892 of 44960 Old 05-08-2015, 12:23 PM
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Wink

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Originally Posted by AVfile View Post
Did you change it back to Bitstream and confirm that it wasn't working again BEFORE unplugging it?

Yes I did and it still was not working on Bitstream. The power/reset did the trick

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post #43893 of 44960 Old 05-08-2015, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post
Yes I did and it still was not working on Bitstream. The power/reset did the trick

That's unfortunate as it sounds like it wasn't just an HDMI handshake issue. Most issues I've run into are resolved by changing input or cycling power on one component in the signal path.

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post #43894 of 44960 Old 05-09-2015, 06:10 AM
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It may very well have been fixed just by reseating the HDMI plugs in sockets.
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post #43895 of 44960 Old 05-10-2015, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post
That's unfortunate as it sounds like it wasn't just an HDMI handshake issue. Most issues I've run into are resolved by changing input or cycling power on one component in the signal path.
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
It may very well have been fixed just by reseating the HDMI plugs in sockets.
--Bob

I am sure there is logical reason that it started working again. Maybe it was cycling the power on one or more components. Maybe it was reseating the hdmi connections. Maybe it was all the above. Maybe it was none of the above.


I don't know how many times I've power cycled a component once or twice with no help, but the third time-it worked. Did I do something different the third time? Maybe, but I don't think so. Perhaps I arranged the curse words differently. Maybe I pushed the buttons with a different finger. Maybe the microprocessors decided to work this time. Maybe the equipment liked my choice of movie or music better the third time. I honestly don't know why sometimes something works and sometimes it doesn't. Probably something logical, but sometimes I think it might be voodoo.

I hope I don't offend any PETA members here, but if it is just voodoo, I would be willing to sacrifice a chicken to appease the A/V gods if it will help.
If anyone else is interested please p.m. me.
Also, if anyone knows the proper way to offer sacrifices, please p.m. me, as this will be my first sacrifice. Unless you want to count the time I accidentally dropped a chicken breast on the charcoal before the grate was in place.


Tom
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post #43896 of 44960 Old 05-10-2015, 03:34 PM
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LOL
I've been having to toggle inputs to get a video signal to pass thru the 50v lately, ever since the weather warmed up.
When it was really cold out I had to cycle power on the video processor to get any image on the projector at all (HDMI cable runs through the attic where it drops below -20 in the winter).
Methinks my main system is too complex. My other 3 systems don't have these problems of course.

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post #43897 of 44960 Old 05-10-2015, 04:48 PM
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Peak Bass Level in the D2 - Where is it?

I have a D2 that nearly blew up my Velo HGS-12's watching Interstellar. I looked in the manual and see something called "Peak Bass Level" described, but at least on my unit (v1.33) I cannot locate it in the D2's menus.

Does it exist? if so, where? If not, is there another way to limit .1 output other than turning down the volume? There's such huge dynamic range in this movie it's hard to find a volume that works to listen to, and that won't destroy my equipment.

Thanks
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post #43898 of 44960 Old 05-11-2015, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post
I am sure there is logical reason that it started working again. Maybe it was cycling the power on one or more components. Maybe it was reseating the hdmi connections. Maybe it was all the above. Maybe it was none of the above.

I don't know how many times I've power cycled a component once or twice with no help, but the third time-it worked. Did I do something different the third time? Maybe, but I don't think so. Perhaps I arranged the curse words differently. Maybe I pushed the buttons with a different finger. Maybe the microprocessors decided to work this time. Maybe the equipment liked my choice of movie or music better the third time. I honestly don't know why sometimes something works and sometimes it doesn't. Probably something logical, but sometimes I think it might be voodoo.

I hope I don't offend any PETA members here, but if it is just voodoo, I would be willing to sacrifice a chicken to appease the A/V gods if it will help.
If anyone else is interested please p.m. me.
Also, if anyone knows the proper way to offer sacrifices, please p.m. me, as this will be my first sacrifice. Unless you want to count the time I accidentally dropped a chicken breast on the charcoal before the grate was in place.


Tom
Yep, Im not sure what did it, as PRIOR to the power off/disconnect, I did reseat all HDMIs. Must have been the Voodoo chicken!!!

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post #43899 of 44960 Old 05-11-2015, 12:30 PM
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That doesn't sound right. The D2 when connected properly and with the correct setup settings should only be sending a .1 signal which should not overload your Velodyne. I would double check your D2 setup and how it is connected. Then go through your Velodyne setup
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post #43900 of 44960 Old 05-11-2015, 12:34 PM
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I am using the avs mobile app and it leaves a lot to desire. Reply does not always post to the post replied to and you cannot edit or change your reply. The above was to bigdaddy999 post
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post #43901 of 44960 Old 05-11-2015, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
That doesn't sound right. The D2 when connected properly and with the correct setup settings should only be sending a .1 signal which should not overload your Velodyne. I would double check your D2 setup and how it is connected. Then go through your Velodyne setup
Thanks. They're connected via RCA line outs from the D2 so the it can mange the room correction. I'm bypassing the Velo's crossovers, and these don't have any other "setup" once calibrated with the D2. The connections are all fine and solid, so I don't think that's it. IN the Anthem thread I asked about something in the manual called Peak Base Limit or similar, which is documented, but not available in the D2's menus, from what I can see.

I guess I'm really trying to determine what caused the noises I heard from that sub.
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post #43902 of 44960 Old 05-11-2015, 01:43 PM
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Check that you DID not select 2 sub's in the D2 setup. Also I assume you have one sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2 ?
When you say the Velo crossover is bypassed, you have the external control turned all the way up ? If all these are correct I suggest you rerun
ARC and check the Sub volume.
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post #43903 of 44960 Old 05-11-2015, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Check that you DID not select 2 sub's in the D2 setup. Also I assume you have one sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2 ?
When you say the Velo crossover is bypassed, you have the external control turned all the way up ? If all these are correct I suggest you rerun
ARC and check the Sub volume.
Thanks for the reply.

I have 1 sub in the D2 setup. Yes, 1 sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2.

Sub volume is NOT all the way up. It's more like at 9 o'clock on the dial for each of them, at the second "dot" up from minimum. I calibrated each sub separately using the D2 pink noise at a SPRL-meter measured 74db before running the ARC. Then ARC set the parameters and I left the volume controls as they were on the sub.

I sent Velodyne a message asking about the noise and they called me back (excellent, excellent response, BTW) and suggested I pull the plate amp to see if it might be that the driver is hitting some of the wires. They offered an extension for the driver wire connections to allow them to be further buried in the baffle material. I find it hard to believe the wires are making this sound, but they said that bottoming out would be more like a chuffing or "farting" noise, and didn't think that was my issue. I'll pull the plate in the next day or two.
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post #43904 of 44960 Old 05-11-2015, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
Thanks for the reply.

I have 1 sub in the D2 setup. Yes, 1 sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2.

Sub volume is NOT all the way up. It's more like at 9 o'clock on the dial for each of them, at the second "dot" up from minimum. I calibrated each sub separately using the D2 pink noise at a SPRL-meter measured 74db before running the ARC. Then ARC set the parameters and I left the volume controls as they were on the sub.

I sent Velodyne a message asking about the noise and they called me back (excellent, excellent response, BTW) and suggested I pull the plate amp to see if it might be that the driver is hitting some of the wires. They offered an extension for the driver wire connections to allow them to be further buried in the baffle material. I find it hard to believe the wires are making this sound, but they said that bottoming out would be more like a chuffing or "farting" noise, and didn't think that was my issue. I'll pull the plate in the next day or two.

In ARC did you set the subs to 'flat' ?
When set to 'flat' ARC does not do a 6dB or 12dB roll-off, which is fine if your sub has built in protection, but not advised if your sub does not have the built in protection. Ask velodyne if your sub has built in protection. If your not sure, set the subs to 'auto' in ARC.




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post #43905 of 44960 Old 05-12-2015, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post
In ARC did you set the subs to 'flat' ?
When set to 'flat' ARC does not do a 6dB or 12dB roll-off, which is fine if your sub has built in protection, but not advised if your sub does not have the built in protection. Ask velodyne if your sub has built in protection. If your not sure, set the subs to 'auto' in ARC.


Tom
ARC was set to Auto for the calibration. Thanks.
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post #43906 of 44960 Old 05-12-2015, 07:23 AM
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ARC was set to Auto for the calibration. Thanks.
You mean in the "Advanced Target Customization" window "Subwoofer High-Pass Order" is set to Auto?
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post #43907 of 44960 Old 05-12-2015, 07:36 AM
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You mean in the "Advanced Target Customization" window "Subwoofer High-Pass Order" is set to Auto?
Yes. Auto in the Advanced. Definitely not set at "Flat".

I ran the calibration in auto mode as well, so did not try to tweak the default settings.
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post #43908 of 44960 Old 05-12-2015, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
Yes. Auto in the Advanced. Definitely not set at "Flat".



I ran the calibration in auto mode as well, so did not try to tweak the default settings.

There are other undocumented settings there that might be "safer" for Christopher Nolan movies, but I wouldn't recommend using them without checking with Anthem Tech Support first. Send them your ARC file and they can advise.

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post #43909 of 44960 Old 05-15-2015, 05:49 AM
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So new Atmos AVM 60 at Munich Audio show? Anybody got the scoop?
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post #43910 of 44960 Old 05-15-2015, 07:13 AM
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What do we think, $7500? $8500? It's kind of looking like my 50V may be my last Anthem, last SSP at least, which is a shame. It would be a nice change if they'd pull out the video processor and drop the price, but I'm sure that won't happen.
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post #43911 of 44960 Old 05-15-2015, 07:28 AM
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Back in November when there were some rumblings on hear about new units I reached out to my dealer. he mentioned something about a pre pro that was at a lower price point. From the pictures online it looks like its lacking a bunch of inputs.


Too early to tell
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post #43912 of 44960 Old 05-15-2015, 08:25 AM
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Here's hoping, but every AVM so far has cost more than the last.

-edit, I should read more carefully, from the AVForums post (that I thought I read )
"...without the hi-end price tag! More details to follow at CEDIA."

Last edited by stanger89; 05-15-2015 at 09:08 AM.
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post #43913 of 44960 Old 05-15-2015, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
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he mentioned something about a pre pro that was at a lower price point.
It better be cheaper... MRX-like and no longer made in Canada

https://www.avforums.com/threads/ant...essor.1957993/

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post #43914 of 44960 Old 05-17-2015, 09:20 AM
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12V trigger question

I am trying to use my 12V trigger on my D2v to power on my Simaudio Titan power amp. My Titan trigger specs are 300 ohms and 40 mA. I've pressed the toggle switch on my Titan to the on position. I've tried connecting to both trigger 1 and 2 on my D2v, but it fails to initiate startup of my amp. The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup. Any suggestions?

Click here for pic of my 7.1 home theater system and here for pic of S2 surround wall mounting.

Click here for pic of my 2 channel system.

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post #43915 of 44960 Old 05-17-2015, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemark81 View Post
I am trying to use my 12V trigger on my D2v to power on my Simaudio Titan power amp. My Titan trigger specs are 300 ohms and 40 mA. I've pressed the toggle switch on my Titan to the on position. I've tried connecting to both trigger 1 and 2 on my D2v, but it fails to initiate startup of my amp. The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup. Any suggestions?
Did you do the setup as documented in the manual Chapter 3.11 (page 40), by default all trigger are off.
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post #43916 of 44960 Old 05-17-2015, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
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Did you do the setup as documented in the manual Chapter 3.11 (page 40), by default all trigger are off.
Yes, as indicated: "The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup."

Click here for pic of my 7.1 home theater system and here for pic of S2 surround wall mounting.

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post #43917 of 44960 Old 05-17-2015, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
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Yes, as indicated: "The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup."
Then the other thing to check is if you have volt meter if the Anthem is outputing 12v. I had some problem with a cheap mono jack that I bought and it did not make proper contact.
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post #43918 of 44960 Old 05-17-2015, 11:01 AM
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^ The most common problem is that the mono-mini jack is not fully inserted into the socket on the Anthem. It takes some effort.

The next most common problem is that the trigger input on the external device needs opposite polarity to function. I.e., swap the tip and ring wires. The specs page at the back of the Anthem Manual gives the polarity on the socket: Tip is positive and sleeve is ground. Check the manual for the external device as to what it needs.

Some external devices need to be set to trigger on a constant voltage instead of an on/off pulse of the Trigger voltage.
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post #43919 of 44960 Old 05-17-2015, 11:24 AM
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It turns out that my Simaudio requires a mono cable. I was originally using a stereo. All is good now. Thanks for your input.

Click here for pic of my 7.1 home theater system and here for pic of S2 surround wall mounting.

Click here for pic of my 2 channel system.

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post #43920 of 44960 Old 05-17-2015, 12:29 PM
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^ Glad you got it figured out. Yep, that's a common problem, too.
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