Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1465 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #43921 of 44652 Old 05-20-2015, 10:45 PM
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THX Trim Levels

Hi
I was tweeking around and noticed when I engage THX and set the "On The Fly" levels that they were not reseting to 0db after I exited out and reentered. After I exited I watched Directv so I know THX was disengaged. I loaded Factory Defaults, then uploaded user settings. I tweeked it up and they still were not reseting to 0db. Any help would be appreciated as I love my d2v.

Rob
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post #43922 of 44652 Old 05-21-2015, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobDec View Post
Hi
I was tweeking around and noticed when I engage THX and set the "On The Fly" levels that they were not reseting to 0db after I exited out and reentered. After I exited I watched Directv so I know THX was disengaged. I loaded Factory Defaults, then uploaded user settings. I tweeked it up and they still were not reseting to 0db. Any help would be appreciated as I love my d2v.

Rob
Strange that should reset it

Did you try rotating thru several sources and returning to the source with the problem ?
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post #43923 of 44652 Old 05-21-2015, 04:34 PM
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I just recently purchased a D2V non 3D unit. Calibration has been completed. Are there any recommended tweaks that can be made once ARC has been performed?

Sony XBR65x850b 4k Oppo BDP-103 Uverse

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post #43924 of 44652 Old 05-21-2015, 07:04 PM
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^ In Setup for ADC check that 2-channel Analog input sampling rate is raised to 96KHz. 6-channel sampling rate should already be at 96KHz.

In Setup > Source Setup check that Dolby Volume is OFF and Room EQ is ON for each Source line. Note that if you use ANALOG DIRECT for any Source lines set for Analog audio input then you are bypassing ARC processing for that Source, even though Room EQ is ON.

In Setup > Mode Presets make sure none of the lines include enabling THX post processing.
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post #43925 of 44652 Old 05-22-2015, 05:47 PM
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Hi thestewsman
By sources do you mean inputs? If so then yes. I turned off bluray which I had the THX engaged on then went into Directv then went back to THX bluray and settings did not display 0dbs
I'm sorry for the delay. I'm up north and have a bad signal

Rob
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post #43926 of 44652 Old 05-22-2015, 11:33 PM
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Hi Guys,
Been following this thread for quite some time. I recently got myself an AVM 50V. I just wanted to confirm if the AVM supports CEC commands ? There is no mention about it anywhere on the Anthem Web site. I currently have a HTPC connected to the pre-pro and it has a CEC adapter and it powers on the TV when its turned on / goes to sleep when tv is powered off etc. I would like to do the same on the processor. Is there any setting that needs to be turned on in the processor ?

Thanks!
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post #43927 of 44652 Old 05-25-2015, 03:35 PM
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ARC was done on my D2v3D 2 years ago. Recently I changed the crossover settings so they are all 80 Hz and turned off ADV SETTINGS. I'm pleased with what I'm hearing.
Should a new ARC be done?
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post #43928 of 44652 Old 05-26-2015, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by vagrahb View Post
Hi Guys,
Been following this thread for quite some time. I recently got myself an AVM 50V. I just wanted to confirm if the AVM supports CEC commands ? There is no mention about it anywhere on the Anthem Web site. I currently have a HTPC connected to the pre-pro and it has a CEC adapter and it powers on the TV when its turned on / goes to sleep when tv is powered off etc. I would like to do the same on the processor. Is there any setting that needs to be turned on in the processor ?

Thanks!
No CEC support in the AVM or Statement D2 prepros. The basic problem with CEC is that manufacturers are allowed to make proprietary implementations, meaning you get problems unless you buy all your gear from the same manufacturer.

I suggest you consider doing this sort of stuff with a programmable remote control instead -- such as the Logitech Harmony products. You can set those to turn on/off the correct set of your gear for each "activity". For example, you might want to turn on the AVM along with the TV for watching a movie, but WITHOUT the TV for playing a CD.
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post #43929 of 44652 Old 05-26-2015, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Orbitron View Post
ARC was done on my D2v3D 2 years ago. Recently I changed the crossover settings so they are all 80 Hz and turned off ADV SETTINGS. I'm pleased with what I'm hearing.
Should a new ARC be done?
I'd say yes. Note that when you redo the ARC setup it will turn the ADVANCED setting back on and upload the Crossover choices it calculates are best.
--Bob

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post #43930 of 44652 Old 05-26-2015, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
No CEC support in the AVM or Statement D2 prepros. The basic problem with CEC is that manufacturers are allowed to make proprietary implementations, meaning you get problems unless you buy all your gear from the same manufacturer.

I suggest you consider doing this sort of stuff with a programmable remote control instead -- such as the Logitech Harmony products. You can set those to turn on/off the correct set of your gear for each "activity". For example, you might want to turn on the AVM along with the TV for watching a movie, but WITHOUT the TV for playing a CD.
--Bob
RS232 would be an option too.
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post #43931 of 44652 Old 05-26-2015, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
I'd say yes. Note that when you redo the ARC setup it will turn the ADVANCED setting back on and upload the Crossover choices it calculates are best.
--Bob
So my current ARC with ADV Settings of Front Xover 60 Hz, Center Xover 65 Hz, Surnd Xover 60 Hz are what the Anthem calculates to be appropriate?
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post #43932 of 44652 Old 05-26-2015, 05:48 PM
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^ ARC calculates and uploads a number of different things including the Crossover settings, the speaker volume trims, and the Room Correction Parameters (which are not visible in the Setup menu). These work as a set. If you change just the Crossovers, for example, while still leaving Room EQ = ON in your Setup > Source Setup lines, then you will be listening to a "broken" ARC solution. Its Room Correction Parameters will no longer be operating in combination with the Crossover settings ARC expected.

If you've been playing around in the audio settings after doing your ARC setup, you may have changed some of the things the ARC solution depends upon. The easiest way to fix that is to simply re-Upload your existing ARC solution.

However, if your current ARC solution is as old as you mention, it may also be that things have changed in your room since that ARC setup was done -- different furniture, different speakers location/pointing, etc.

So as I said, make sure you've got the latest version of the ARC setup application on your PC, and the latest firmware in the D2v, and redo the ARC setup "just in case". Then you know you'll have a good ARC solution for evaluation.
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post #43933 of 44652 Old 05-26-2015, 08:11 PM
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With ADV Setting On, how does one know if ARC set the speakers to Large or Small?
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post #43934 of 44652 Old 05-26-2015, 08:51 PM
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ARC never sets speakers LARGE on its own. In the Targets window of the ARC setup application you can force ARC to treat speakers as Full Range, which means no Crossover processing.

I forget how that shows in the D2v Setup menu when the ARC settings are Uploaded.

The Rule of Thumb, however, is that if you have a decent Subwoofer you should never set any of your speakers to Full Range. Even if the speaker is spec'ed as Full Range, it is ALMOST ALWAYS better to set a low Crossover value for that speaker rather than no Crossover at all.

You have to huff a lot of air to produce the lowest bass frequencies AT VOLUME and it's a rare speaker that can do this anywhere close to as well as a decent subwoofer. Typically you'd have to have a speaker with its own, powered woofer -- basically a subwoofer built inside its cabinet.

Keep in mind that the Crossover rolls into effect over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency). So if you set, say, a 40Hz Crossover for your "full range" speaker, you are actually expecting that speaker to produce quality audio down to 20Hz.
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post #43935 of 44652 Old 05-28-2015, 06:57 PM
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Anthem D2 subwoofers not functioning

Hi Bob and group,

I've been following for years on this forum. Within the past year I've noticed that my active subwoofers (2) no longer output sound (bass). They are active, are powered on, and the from light showing activity remains red (green when working). I can't find a single config setting in the setup on the D2 that changes their behavior. They used to work and stopped, but I can't tell if it was related to a change that I made or an issue with the subwoofer output.

Have you ever heard of this? Any ideas?


Thanks,

eric
Attached Files
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File Type: zip Anthem Room Correction VR4 Mk2 March 2013.zip (213.9 KB, 13 views)
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post #43936 of 44652 Old 05-28-2015, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etrexler View Post
Hi Bob and group,

I've been following for years on this forum. Within the past year I've noticed that my active subwoofers (2) no longer output sound (bass). They are active, are powered on, and the from light showing activity remains red (green when working). I can't find a single config setting in the setup on the D2 that changes their behavior. They used to work and stopped, but I can't tell if it was related to a change that I made or an issue with the subwoofer output.

Have you ever heard of this? Any ideas?
Have you tried connecting a sub to a different source? I had the same issue, but something in my sub had fried. Still turned on, amp display lit up, but no sound. Thankfully SVS has a 5-year warranty and a plate amp swap cured it. I agree it is odd that both would die around the same time.

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post #43937 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by etrexler View Post
Hi Bob and group,

I've been following for years on this forum. Within the past year I've noticed that my active subwoofers (2) no longer output sound (bass). They are active, are powered on, and the from light showing activity remains red (green when working). I can't find a single config setting in the setup on the D2 that changes their behavior. They used to work and stopped, but I can't tell if it was related to a change that I made or an issue with the subwoofer output.

Have you ever heard of this? Any ideas?Thanks,
eric

If I understand correctly you're saying that the red light on your subs is not turning green. Many subs have a 'standby' setting to reduce power consumption when not in use, and will power on (light will turn green) when they receive a signal. But the signal need to be sufficient to trigger the sub. It sounds like your subs may not be receiving a strong enough signal. From you ARC chart it appears that your subs should be turned on in settings as long as ARC is turned on in the sources. So be sure to check your sources and make sure ARC ROOM EQ is 'on'. In SPEAKER CONFIGURATION open the movie config and see if 'advanced settings ' are on. If ARC is loaded it should be 'on' and crossovers for your speakers should be the same as they are on the ARC targets page (except for the sub cross-over/cutoff thing that we don't need to get into here).
If those settings are OK, then check to make sure the 'on the fly' setting for your subs has not been turned down. While listening to a movie push the 'SUB-LFE' button on the Anthem remote. It should read'+0.0'. If has been turned down return it to '+0.0'. See the 'OPERATION/LEVEL TRIM' section of your manual for a better explanation.
See if your subs have an 'always on' setting. Many have 'off', 'standby' and 'on' power choices. If you can turn them to always 'on' it should turn your light green, which means that the sub's amp is on. If you can set their power to 'on' try playing a disc with good bass and LFE and listen. If you still can't hear the sub, place your hand on the sub speaker and feel for any movement.


Hope this helps. As MicthPope said, its unlikely both subs would die at the same time. Its probably a screwy setting.

"When all else fails, read the manual."
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post #43938 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 01:49 PM
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It seems I prefer Analog Direct when playing Hi-Rez stereo sources with my Electrostats (Martin-Logan Spires) which radiate sound equally from the front and back panels. But I want to correct a dip in the 100-300Hz region and hope the tone controls would help here. Would they work in Analog-Direct mode?


David

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43939 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
It seems I prefer Analog Direct when playing Hi-Rez stereo sources with my Electrostats (Martin-Logan Spires) which radiate sound equally from the front and back panels. But I want to correct a dip in the 100-300Hz region and hope the tone controls would help here. Would they work in Analog-Direct mode?


David
Sorry David but the controls to not work on Analog Direct.

How are you determining you have this dip ?
Other ways to control it would be speaker positioning and the physical room characteristics.

On second thought you said 100-300hz . 320hz is the crossover frequency. Might be important

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post #43940 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Sorry David but the controls to not work on Analog Direct.

How are you determining you have this dip ?
Other ways to control it would be speaker positioning and the physical room characteristics.

On second thought you said 100-300hz . 320hz is the crossover frequency. Might be important

Bummer...I thought so.


I looked at my ARC 'before' plots to identify the dip which is actually between 100-200Hz. I thought using mild EQ would help solve the problem.


Guess will again have to try placement options to see if it helps, didn't succeed last time around.
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How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630

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post #43941 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 05:20 PM
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post #43942 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 06:45 PM
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Good idea...not sure why I never thought of that...

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43943 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post
If I understand correctly you're saying that the red light on your subs is not turning green. Many subs have a 'standby' setting to reduce power consumption when not in use, and will power on (light will turn green) when they receive a signal. But the signal need to be sufficient to trigger the sub. It sounds like your subs may not be receiving a strong enough signal. From you ARC chart it appears that your subs should be turned on in settings as long as ARC is turned on in the sources. So be sure to check your sources and make sure ARC ROOM EQ is 'on'. In SPEAKER CONFIGURATION open the movie config and see if 'advanced settings ' are on. If ARC is loaded it should be 'on' and crossovers for your speakers should be the same as they are on the ARC targets page (except for the sub cross-over/cutoff thing that we don't need to get into here).
If those settings are OK, then check to make sure the 'on the fly' setting for your subs has not been turned down. While listening to a movie push the 'SUB-LFE' button on the Anthem remote. It should read'+0.0'. If has been turned down return it to '+0.0'. See the 'OPERATION/LEVEL TRIM' section of your manual for a better explanation.
See if your subs have an 'always on' setting. Many have 'off', 'standby' and 'on' power choices. If you can turn them to always 'on' it should turn your light green, which means that the sub's amp is on. If you can set their power to 'on' try playing a disc with good bass and LFE and listen. If you still can't hear the sub, place your hand on the sub speaker and feel for any movement.


Hope this helps. As MicthPope said, its unlikely both subs would die at the same time. Its probably a screwy setting.

All is set as expected, no change in behavior. The Subs are not working. SUB-LFE is set to 0.

Eric
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post #43944 of 44652 Old 05-29-2015, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
Bummer...I thought so.


I looked at my ARC 'before' plots to identify the dip which is actually between 100-200Hz. I thought using mild EQ would help solve the problem.


Guess will again have to try placement options to see if it helps, didn't succeed last time around.
I noticed the dip is right before a rise at about 35hz where the only control the speakers have is effective.
I would try Quick Measure and turning down the bass at 35hz and see if that might eliminate the dip the woofer makes at 150hz
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post #43945 of 44652 Old 05-30-2015, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by etrexler View Post
All is set as expected, no change in behavior. The Subs are not working. SUB-LFE is set to 0.

Eric

Before you buy new subs try a couple more things.
First, go to the LEVEL CALIBRATION section of the D2 menu and set to auto (pink noise will cycle thru your speakers), or 'manual' and choose 'movie sub' or 'music sub'. You should be getting sound from your subs.
BTW, what is the sub setting in this menu? It should have been set by ARC.
Do you get any sound??


If that didn't work, did you try connecting your subs directly to a source as MitchPope suggested?
Some DVD/Bluray players have analog rca out connections (and all cd players do). Connect the 'sub out' (or RT/LT) directly to one of your subs and see if you can get any sound or movement from your subs. Do you get any sound now??


If all fails then it may be time for some new subs (or sub). Like MitchPope, I have had very positive experiences with SVS. The only downside is that they are a direct from website seller--no brick and mortar stores-- and you would need to wait for delivery.


As mentioned before, it is unlikely that both subs would go bad at the same time, but it is possible that they went bad one at a time and you didn't notice until the second died.
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post #43946 of 44652 Old 05-31-2015, 09:33 PM
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2 subs

No pink noise on either sub. light still red, no sound be ear or feel.


Eric
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post #43947 of 44652 Old 06-01-2015, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etrexler View Post
No pink noise on either sub. light still red, no sound be ear or feel.


Eric

Just to be complete, please hook your subs (or at least one of them)directly to a 'sub out' output from a DVD or bluray player and play a bass heavy movie. This will bypass the D2 and verify the problem is with the subs, and not in the Anthem.
I would want to be positive where the problem is before buying new subs.
If you get no sound or movement, and you are sure the sub is set up correctly, then it may be time to start shopping for new subs. If you do get sound, then it will be time for more trouble-shooting.

"When all else fails, read the manual."
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post #43948 of 44652 Old 06-01-2015, 06:09 PM
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D2V Remote

Any pros or cons to using the D2V remote as a master remote? The processor is tucked away in an A/V closet and I will soon have a Zektor HDBaseT HDMI that has a built in IR. Had previously relied on RF signals.
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post #43949 of 44652 Old 06-03-2015, 08:47 PM
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I have a Philips Laser Disc player which still works (!). It has a s-video output which the D2v 3d apparently accepts.

How do I get the sound though?
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post #43950 of 44652 Old 06-03-2015, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Weinman View Post
I have a Philips Laser Disc player which still works (!). It has a s-video output which the D2v 3d apparently accepts.

How do I get the sound though?
Red and White RCA cables - old fashion ANALOG
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