Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1466 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #43951 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etrexler View Post
Hi Bob and group,

I've been following for years on this forum. Within the past year I've noticed that my active subwoofers (2) no longer output sound (bass). They are active, are powered on, and the from light showing activity remains red (green when working). I can't find a single config setting in the setup on the D2 that changes their behavior. They used to work and stopped, but I can't tell if it was related to a change that I made or an issue with the subwoofer output.

Have you ever heard of this? Any ideas?Thanks,
eric

If I understand correctly you're saying that the red light on your subs is not turning green. Many subs have a 'standby' setting to reduce power consumption when not in use, and will power on (light will turn green) when they receive a signal. But the signal need to be sufficient to trigger the sub. It sounds like your subs may not be receiving a strong enough signal. From you ARC chart it appears that your subs should be turned on in settings as long as ARC is turned on in the sources. So be sure to check your sources and make sure ARC ROOM EQ is 'on'. In SPEAKER CONFIGURATION open the movie config and see if 'advanced settings ' are on. If ARC is loaded it should be 'on' and crossovers for your speakers should be the same as they are on the ARC targets page (except for the sub cross-over/cutoff thing that we don't need to get into here).
If those settings are OK, then check to make sure the 'on the fly' setting for your subs has not been turned down. While listening to a movie push the 'SUB-LFE' button on the Anthem remote. It should read'+0.0'. If has been turned down return it to '+0.0'. See the 'OPERATION/LEVEL TRIM' section of your manual for a better explanation.
See if your subs have an 'always on' setting. Many have 'off', 'standby' and 'on' power choices. If you can turn them to always 'on' it should turn your light green, which means that the sub's amp is on. If you can set their power to 'on' try playing a disc with good bass and LFE and listen. If you still can't hear the sub, place your hand on the sub speaker and feel for any movement.


Hope this helps. As MicthPope said, its unlikely both subs would die at the same time. Its probably a screwy setting.

"When all else fails, read the manual."
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post #43952 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 12:49 PM
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It seems I prefer Analog Direct when playing Hi-Rez stereo sources with my Electrostats (Martin-Logan Spires) which radiate sound equally from the front and back panels. But I want to correct a dip in the 100-300Hz region and hope the tone controls would help here. Would they work in Analog-Direct mode?


David

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43953 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
It seems I prefer Analog Direct when playing Hi-Rez stereo sources with my Electrostats (Martin-Logan Spires) which radiate sound equally from the front and back panels. But I want to correct a dip in the 100-300Hz region and hope the tone controls would help here. Would they work in Analog-Direct mode?


David
Sorry David but the controls to not work on Analog Direct.

How are you determining you have this dip ?
Other ways to control it would be speaker positioning and the physical room characteristics.

On second thought you said 100-300hz . 320hz is the crossover frequency. Might be important

Last edited by thestewman; 05-29-2015 at 03:22 PM.
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post #43954 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Sorry David but the controls to not work on Analog Direct.

How are you determining you have this dip ?
Other ways to control it would be speaker positioning and the physical room characteristics.

On second thought you said 100-300hz . 320hz is the crossover frequency. Might be important

Bummer...I thought so.


I looked at my ARC 'before' plots to identify the dip which is actually between 100-200Hz. I thought using mild EQ would help solve the problem.


Guess will again have to try placement options to see if it helps, didn't succeed last time around.
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How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630

Last edited by dmusoke; 05-29-2015 at 05:43 PM.
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post #43955 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 04:20 PM
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Did you try ARC but limiting the correction to something like 500Hz?

See what an anamorphoscopic lens can do, see movies the way they were meant to be seen
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post #43956 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 05:45 PM
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Good idea...not sure why I never thought of that...

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
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post #43957 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post
If I understand correctly you're saying that the red light on your subs is not turning green. Many subs have a 'standby' setting to reduce power consumption when not in use, and will power on (light will turn green) when they receive a signal. But the signal need to be sufficient to trigger the sub. It sounds like your subs may not be receiving a strong enough signal. From you ARC chart it appears that your subs should be turned on in settings as long as ARC is turned on in the sources. So be sure to check your sources and make sure ARC ROOM EQ is 'on'. In SPEAKER CONFIGURATION open the movie config and see if 'advanced settings ' are on. If ARC is loaded it should be 'on' and crossovers for your speakers should be the same as they are on the ARC targets page (except for the sub cross-over/cutoff thing that we don't need to get into here).
If those settings are OK, then check to make sure the 'on the fly' setting for your subs has not been turned down. While listening to a movie push the 'SUB-LFE' button on the Anthem remote. It should read'+0.0'. If has been turned down return it to '+0.0'. See the 'OPERATION/LEVEL TRIM' section of your manual for a better explanation.
See if your subs have an 'always on' setting. Many have 'off', 'standby' and 'on' power choices. If you can turn them to always 'on' it should turn your light green, which means that the sub's amp is on. If you can set their power to 'on' try playing a disc with good bass and LFE and listen. If you still can't hear the sub, place your hand on the sub speaker and feel for any movement.


Hope this helps. As MicthPope said, its unlikely both subs would die at the same time. Its probably a screwy setting.

All is set as expected, no change in behavior. The Subs are not working. SUB-LFE is set to 0.

Eric
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post #43958 of 43962 Old 05-29-2015, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post
Bummer...I thought so.


I looked at my ARC 'before' plots to identify the dip which is actually between 100-200Hz. I thought using mild EQ would help solve the problem.


Guess will again have to try placement options to see if it helps, didn't succeed last time around.
I noticed the dip is right before a rise at about 35hz where the only control the speakers have is effective.
I would try Quick Measure and turning down the bass at 35hz and see if that might eliminate the dip the woofer makes at 150hz
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post #43959 of 43962 Old 05-30-2015, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etrexler View Post
All is set as expected, no change in behavior. The Subs are not working. SUB-LFE is set to 0.

Eric

Before you buy new subs try a couple more things.
First, go to the LEVEL CALIBRATION section of the D2 menu and set to auto (pink noise will cycle thru your speakers), or 'manual' and choose 'movie sub' or 'music sub'. You should be getting sound from your subs.
BTW, what is the sub setting in this menu? It should have been set by ARC.
Do you get any sound??


If that didn't work, did you try connecting your subs directly to a source as MitchPope suggested?
Some DVD/Bluray players have analog rca out connections (and all cd players do). Connect the 'sub out' (or RT/LT) directly to one of your subs and see if you can get any sound or movement from your subs. Do you get any sound now??


If all fails then it may be time for some new subs (or sub). Like MitchPope, I have had very positive experiences with SVS. The only downside is that they are a direct from website seller--no brick and mortar stores-- and you would need to wait for delivery.


As mentioned before, it is unlikely that both subs would go bad at the same time, but it is possible that they went bad one at a time and you didn't notice until the second died.
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post #43960 of 43962 Old Yesterday, 08:33 PM
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2 subs

No pink noise on either sub. light still red, no sound be ear or feel.


Eric
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post #43961 of 43962 Old Today, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etrexler View Post
No pink noise on either sub. light still red, no sound be ear or feel.


Eric

Just to be complete, please hook your subs (or at least one of them)directly to a 'sub out' output from a DVD or bluray player and play a bass heavy movie. This will bypass the D2 and verify the problem is with the subs, and not in the Anthem.
I would want to be positive where the problem is before buying new subs.
If you get no sound or movement, and you are sure the sub is set up correctly, then it may be time to start shopping for new subs. If you do get sound, then it will be time for more trouble-shooting.

"When all else fails, read the manual."
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post #43962 of 43962 Unread Today, 05:09 PM
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D2V Remote

Any pros or cons to using the D2V remote as a master remote? The processor is tucked away in an A/V closet and I will soon have a Zektor HDBaseT HDMI that has a built in IR. Had previously relied on RF signals.
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