Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1471 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #44101 of 44859 Old 09-11-2015, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobDec View Post
Glenn,
Talked to Anthem support, and they gave me a solution. When you get the 2.0 issue, just hit the volume "UP" or "DOWN" button ,and the proper format might appear. Im not saying it will work for you, but it did for me. Hope this helps!

Rob
Thanks Rob, I'll give it a try next time...
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post #44102 of 44859 Old 09-13-2015, 03:54 PM
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Hello: Very happy with my AVM50 3D but I'm planning on a new computer and was wondering if anyone has any experience running ARC with Windows 10? Anthem tech support told me that, so far, they've only tried it with ARC2.
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post #44103 of 44859 Old 09-14-2015, 07:30 PM
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Need help with ARC for Anthem D2

Help Please!

After reading many posts of how good an Anthem D2 is, I decide to go ahead and bought one for my HT and music enjoyment. I also purchased an ARC kit because I heard it can makes a different in sound quality. After receiving all my gears, I ran a room correction setup but I also ran into problem, microphone does not detected from my window 10 laptop. I installed the software came with it and ran a software update from Anthem website, installed a keyspan adapter but some how keep getting a message "fail to have a valid microphone, check microphone connection." Wondering if window 10 is the problem here? Please help. Thank you in advance.
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post #44104 of 44859 Old 09-14-2015, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyphung View Post
Help Please!

After reading many posts of how good an Anthem D2 is, I decide to go ahead and bought one for my HT and music enjoyment. I also purchased an ARC kit because I heard it can makes a different in sound quality. After receiving all my gears, I ran a room correction setup but I also ran into problem, microphone does not detected from my window 10 laptop. I installed the software came with it and ran a software update from Anthem website, installed a keyspan adapter but some how keep getting a message "fail to have a valid microphone, check microphone connection." Wondering if window 10 is the problem here? Please help. Thank you in advance.
I have not done ARC in a long time so hopefully I remember the correct procedure.
If not somebody can correct me
After running the ARC CD you should be able to check for the correct CAl and Anthem.file
Go to File Explorer and click on Program File (v86) then Anthem, then AnthemRoomCorrection.
You should see two files there.
Older kits will be like 146735_123550.Cal and 146735_123550.Anthem.file
With the first number the D2 serial number and the second number the microphone serial number
Newer kits will be 123550.cal Only the microphone serial number.
If the files are not there. You will have to copy them from the ARC CD and paste them there.
Make sure the D2 serial number and the microphone serial number are a match
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post #44105 of 44859 Old 09-15-2015, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
I have not done ARC in a long time so hopefully I remember the correct procedure.
If not somebody can correct me
After running the ARC CD you should be able to check for the correct CAl and Anthem.file
Go to File Explorer and click on Program File (v86) then Anthem, then AnthemRoomCorrection.
You should see two files there.
Older kits will be like 146735_123550.Cal and 146735_123550.Anthem.file
With the first number the D2 serial number and the second number the microphone serial number
Newer kits will be 123550.cal Only the microphone serial number.
If the files are not there. You will have to copy them from the ARC CD and paste them there.
Make sure the D2 serial number and the microphone serial number are a match
Hi, thanks for the reply. I did what you say, I found a Cal file with the microphone serial number, but when I try to open it, it is unreadable. Do I have to open it with some special apps? If so, do you know which app should be able to read? I opened it with microsoft word and it appear with some weird letters.
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post #44106 of 44859 Old 09-15-2015, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyphung View Post
Hi, thanks for the reply. I did what you say, I found a Cal file with the microphone serial number, but when I try to open it, it is unreadable. Do I have to open it with some special apps? If so, do you know which app should be able to read? I opened it with microsoft word and it appear with some weird letters.
Did you locate the cal file in the Anthem Folder ? If yes that is where it is supposed to be so all is well there.
Did you check the serial number on the cal file with the serial number on the microphone ?

If the cal file was NOT in the folder locate it on the CD and right click and copy or Ctrl C the file and paste it , Ctrl V, into the AnthemRoomCorrection folder. Do not open or attempt to read it just paste it into the folder,
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post #44107 of 44859 Old 09-15-2015, 08:41 AM
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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyphung View Post
I also ran into problem, microphone does not detected from my window 10 laptop.

Does your computer have a USB 2 port or only USB 3?

See this post by tranle:


Quote:
Originally Posted by tranle View Post
Not Bob, but I had a similar problem a few month ago with a Lenovo laptop and it seems that the Anthem mic driver does not like to be in a USB3 mode.
Check if you have an option in your bios be in a USB2 mode (compatibility or forced).

Without it my notebook would see the mic in the device manager app but ARC could not see it.

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Last edited by AVfile; 09-17-2015 at 05:41 PM.
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post #44108 of 44859 Old 09-15-2015, 06:52 PM
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Yes I did everything you said and still didn't work. Found out arc doesn't support window 10. What a relieve. Cost me 2 days sleepless but thanks for your input.
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post #44109 of 44859 Old 09-15-2015, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyphung View Post
Yes I did everything you said and still didn't work. Found out arc doesn't support window 10. What a relieve. Cost me 2 days sleepless but thanks for your input.
If so that makes no sense. As a major manufacturer Anthem has had sufficient time to get the necesary firmware out
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post #44110 of 44859 Old 09-15-2015, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyphung View Post
Yes I did everything you said and still didn't work. Found out arc doesn't support window 10. What a relieve. Cost me 2 days sleepless but thanks for your input.

Were you also referring to my post just before your last? Did Anthem confirm it's not a USB3 issue?

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post #44111 of 44859 Old 09-15-2015, 08:26 PM
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Sorry, I didn't see your previous post. Let me take all that exciting back, it still didn't work after I restored my laptop back to window 8. Now seeing your previous post, I am starting to suspect the usb3 and usb2 thing. I'm don't know much about computer so if you could please help me how to find out if it usb3 or 2 on my laptop. And if it is the case, what can I do to get usb2 to compatible with arc? Just bought a new laptop couple months ago too
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post #44112 of 44859 Old 09-16-2015, 01:24 PM
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Bob and Nick

Thanks for the info, the problem occurs if the unit is turned off overnight, the next morning it will take turning it on and off about 3 times and then it will finally move off the "Powering on" screen and finish booting up all the way. If it is just turned on for a few hours it will boot up completely with no problems.
Nick

Can you tell me if the boot up sequence for the D2 is different depending on what input is being used, I hear the D2 click every time I power on but if i'm using an input that uses the HDMI to the TV it takes several times of pouring on and off for it to connect using the HDMI, if I switch to the 2-channel input it works every time. Up front it would appear it's the HDMI cable if the boot up sequence on the D2 is the same for all outputs. The funny thing is that once i get it going it will work fine all day long and only cause trouble when shut down overnight.
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post #44113 of 44859 Old 09-16-2015, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Whitl View Post
if i'm using an input that uses the HDMI to the TV it takes several times of pouring on and off for it to connect using the HDMI, if I switch to the 2-channel input it works every time. ... once i get it going it will work fine all day long and only cause trouble when shut down overnight.
Does this happen with all your HDMI sources, or just specific ones? Please contact tech support with TV and source model numbers involved, what exactly appears on the D2 front panel and TV screen during the problem, brief description of cabling and whether other devices such as port savers or converters are in use, video output settings in the setup menu, and how long the system worked as expected before the problem appeared. Also check to make sure latest software is in use all around.

Once these things are out of the way TS may ask you to try moving cables around as an initial step but if it's convenient enough you can try that now to see whether the problem follows.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #44114 of 44859 Old 09-17-2015, 09:08 AM
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Maybe someone could shed some light on a small issue I am having. As I noted in some posts (way back) I utilize HDMI 2 out of My D2v3D into a splitter to share the video to two other flat panels within my home. Since this was not the intended purpose of the hdmi2-out I had to do a few tricks to get it to work how I wanted. In this configuration the alternate TV’s always had picture, but if I switched sources I’d lose all audio. I worked around this by introducing an Audio imbedder into the HDMI path prior to the splitter. I essentially take the analog Tape out and that is inserted into the HDMI audio Path. Yes it’s a totally convoluted, but it works like a charm. That is except for one device, my amazon Fire stick.

When I utilize the fire stick I get no audio out of the tape, or any other Analog output. Is this due to a copy protection issue? I could get the Amazon Fire TV and that has an optical out, but curious if I can make the current stick work


And yes I am utilizing the hdmi 2 out in a way the Anthem was not designed for
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post #44115 of 44859 Old 09-17-2015, 05:46 PM
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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyphung View Post
Sorry, I didn't see your previous post. Let me take all that exciting back, it still didn't work after I restored my laptop back to window 8. Now seeing your previous post, I am starting to suspect the usb3 and usb2 thing. I'm don't know much about computer so if you could please help me how to find out if it usb3 or 2 on my laptop. And if it is the case, what can I do to get usb2 to compatible with arc? Just bought a new laptop couple months ago too

Check the laptop manufacturer's site. There is also a great site from Germany called notebookcheck.net that has detailed specs for most major brands. You just need to know the exact model number. There might be a USB2 port on it you can use. Otherwise, if they are all USB3 you will have to try poking around the BIOS settings (which is not something I want to get into here, but you can google instructions for your make). You could also try asking the dealer you bought your equipment from.

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Last edited by AVfile; 09-17-2015 at 08:55 PM.
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post #44116 of 44859 Old 09-17-2015, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post
Maybe someone could shed some light on a small issue I am having. As I noted in some posts (way back) I utilize HDMI 2 out of My D2v3D into a splitter to share the video to two other flat panels within my home. Since this was not the intended purpose of the hdmi2-out I had to do a few tricks to get it to work how I wanted. In this configuration the alternate TV’s always had picture, but if I switched sources I’d lose all audio. I worked around this by introducing an Audio imbedder into the HDMI path prior to the splitter. I essentially take the analog Tape out and that is inserted into the HDMI audio Path. Yes it’s a totally convoluted, but it works like a charm. That is except for one device, my amazon Fire stick.

When I utilize the fire stick I get no audio out of the tape, or any other Analog output. Is this due to a copy protection issue? I could get the Amazon Fire TV and that has an optical out, but curious if I can make the current stick work


And yes I am utilizing the hdmi 2 out in a way the Anthem was not designed for
The audio copy protection maybe the issue
There is a warning in the D2v manual that when using HDMI 2 and changing the source in HDMI 1 you might lose the HDMI2 audio copy protection.

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post #44117 of 44859 Old 09-19-2015, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
The audio copy protection maybe the issue
There is a warning in the D2v manual that when using HDMI 2 and changing the source in HDMI 1 you might lose the HDMI2 audio copy protection.

Bottom of page 17
Excellent suggestion from @thew estman to look at debugging your situation. If that doesn't end up being the problem, then look at the old faithful solution that's been posted about previously with the Dr. HDMI. Here's the link that references an AppleTV having audio and video issues.

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post #44118 of 44859 Old 09-20-2015, 08:14 AM
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Nick,
Any plans in the works on upgrading ARC to Windows 10 in the future?
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post #44119 of 44859 Old 09-22-2015, 01:32 PM
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Anthem D2v/P5 randomly switching off channels

My Anthem D2v connected to an Anthem P5 have suddenly starten to randomly switching off all channels, except for the left front speaker (for some reason). After a few minutes the channels turn on again and the pattern repeats itself after another pause. The problem began this morning.

I have the Anthem P5 set to automatic and it has worked without any real problems for the last 5 years. It doesn't matter which source is used. I have never tried using a trigger cable, but i still want to fix the problem with automatic line sensing anyway.

Is this a "know issue"? Maybe firmware related or perhaps more likely a hardware problem? I suppose the problem may be caused by either the D2v or the P5.

Any ideas?

/ Påhl
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post #44120 of 44859 Old 09-22-2015, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orup70 View Post
My Anthem D2v connected to an Anthem P5 have suddenly starten to randomly switching off all channels, except for the left front speaker (for some reason). After a few minutes the channels turn on again and the pattern repeats itself after another pause. The problem began this morning.

I have the Anthem P5 set to automatic and it has worked without any real problems for the last 5 years. It doesn't matter which source is used. I have never tried using a trigger cable, but i still want to fix the problem with automatic line sensing anyway.

Is this a "know issue"? Maybe firmware related or perhaps more likely a hardware problem? I suppose the problem may be caused by either the D2v or the P5.

Any ideas?

/ Påhl
You might try switching the input cables to the P5 making note of which ones you switch . Then when the audio cuts out make note if the only running channel stays at the same speaker or moves to another channel. This should determine whether it is the D2 or the P5.
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post #44121 of 44859 Old 09-24-2015, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post
Does this happen with all your HDMI sources, or just specific ones? Please contact tech support with TV and source model numbers involved, what exactly appears on the D2 front panel and TV screen during the problem, brief description of cabling and whether other devices such as port savers or converters are in use, video output settings in the setup menu, and how long the system worked as expected before the problem appeared. Also check to make sure latest software is in use all around.

Once these things are out of the way TS may ask you to try moving cables around as an initial step but if it's convenient enough you can try that now to see whether the problem follows.
Nick

Contacted tech support and tried some things with no success.

I have 3 HDMI inputs, a rogers cable box, OPPO 95, and a Roku, the TV is a Sony Bravia about 4 years old. Tried changing cables doesn't seem to make any difference, the problem appears to be with the HDMI as if I go to 2 channel analog which is the Sony HAPZE1 I will get audio right away, if I switch to an HDMI input the D2 displays the name of input but I have no audio or video, the Sony says there no input connected. Doesn't seem to matter which HDMI input is used the result is the same. After turning the D2 off and on several times it finally connect but it is getting harder every day. I have checked all 3 input devices with respect to firmware upgrades and they all say I have the current firmware. I am running V1.33 on the D2 and this setup has been in place for several years with no problems until just recently with this mystery.
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post #44122 of 44859 Old 09-25-2015, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
You might try switching the input cables to the P5 making note of which ones you switch . Then when the audio cuts out make note if the only running channel stays at the same speaker or moves to another channel. This should determine whether it is the D2 or the P5.
Thanks, good advice!.

My cables are quite hard to move (short and cables everywhere, locking each other) and the P5 makes the media bench very heavy. But I managed to remove the left front source cable and replace it with the right front cable.

The result: when the power is randomly cut from the P5 channels (loudly clicking the relays) — the center goes away and the left front remains. Since the left front now is driven by the right front source from the D2v, my interpretation is that the P5 is "broken" in the power control units for all channels except the left front.

I found this post in the "Antem Amp (P2 and P5) owners thread" and it seems to be a common fault with the Anthem amps:

Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post
…if I were you I'd save the money on the Anthem. While I really like the sound, they have a circuit board that goes bad on a LOT of them. Anthem doesn't want you to buy the board and replace it yourself so you have to haul that rather heavy device to an Anthem authorized repair center. If the Anthems didn't have that issue with the bad circuit board, I'd actually recommend them but since I've seen it on 3 out of three Anthem amps all bought from different locations and years apart, I'm pretty sure it has to be a common issue.
Since I'm located in Sweden and we don't have any offical Anthem retailers or repair centers, I have a slight problem — or rather, a heavy problem. So the next step is contacting the Anthem support I guess…

But I'm glad I never sold my old amp right now. :-) This will take a while to fix! I just have to buy some XLR to RCA adapters to make it possible to connect though.

/ Påhl
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post #44123 of 44859 Old 09-25-2015, 06:56 PM
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@Orup70
If you think that your P5 Trigger are going bad, there are 3 mode to it: Trigger, Manual, Auto
You can try first Manual to make sure that it does not turn off by itself.
Then try the trigger with a cable going your D2V trigger to your P5.
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post #44124 of 44859 Old 09-25-2015, 07:23 PM
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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orup70 View Post

The result: when the power is randomly cut from the P5 channels (loudly clicking the relays) — the center goes away and the left front remains. Since the left front now is driven by the right front source from the D2v, my interpretation is that the P5 is "broken" in the power control units for all channels except the left front.



Since I'm located in Sweden and we don't have any offical Anthem retailers or repair centers, I have a slight problem — or rather, a heavy problem. So the next step is contacting the Anthem support I guess…

It does seem like the amp has the bad circuit board. Anthem might be able to sell you one and you could get a local tech to install it. Is it under warranty?

What Anthem wants is not relevant (unless the unit is still under warranty and they're paying the repair bill) so take the amp to a local, independent repair shop of your choice. Once they confirm the bad component they (or you) could order it from Anthem. Shipping a package that heavy to Canada and back is going to be ridiculously expensive, close to $1000 by air. By sea it will take months.

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post #44125 of 44859 Old 09-26-2015, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tranle View Post
@Orup70
If you think that your P5 Trigger are going bad, there are 3 mode to it: Trigger, Manual, Auto
You can try first Manual to make sure that it does not turn off by itself.
Then try the trigger with a cable going your D2V trigger to your P5.
I have nerver used cable triggering. If I understand correctly, I need to buy a standard mono 3.5 mm "sound cable" and just connect it to any of the three "trigger out" connections of the D2v and to the "trigger in" connection of the P5?

But, if I've understood it correctly, all three trigger modes of the P5 — Trigger, Manual, Auto — always turn on/off all five "mono blocks" inside the amp (or all five amp channels). Is there individual line sensing circuits for each line? I.e. if the source only outputs stereo (left and right front) will the P5 turn off the center and rear lines?

I don't think so. From my experience and from reading the manual, I believe all channels are either all on or all off—regardless of the triggering mode. Or?

Anyway, I tried your suggestion using the Manual setting. And the result is identical. When powering on the system, all channels are on at first, and after about 5–10 minutes all channels turn off, except the left front. They stay off for about 2–4 minutes and then turn on again for about the same period and the pattern repeats itself.

I will buy a 3.5 mm mono cable today and do some testing of the Triggering mode from the D2v. Will report back after more testing…

/ Påhl
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post #44126 of 44859 Old 09-26-2015, 03:14 AM
 
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The only power amp I am aware of which can switch off unused channels is one of the Tag Mclaren amplifiers.

For typical av pre switching on your poweramp (from standby) you need a 3.5mm mono to 3.5mm mono cable, if both have the 3.5mm jacks. For my MC-8 the trigger outputs are on a screw down trigger block, so you just snip one 3.5mm end off. The ATI amp has 3.5mm connector.

Have tried it, but I will just use the old manual method, until my av pre has two outputs.

I'd like the trigger outputs

1) ATI 2003 for L/C/R. Switch on for 2ch
2) ATI 2004 for surrounds. Switch on when watch a movie soundtrack

Not sure you can do that. As for Anthem, seeing how much the AVM 60 is...probably over my budget but maybe better than AV7702 Anthem room correction supposed to be very good, and bit more customisation, plus you can see what it's doing, with graphs on the PC.
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post #44127 of 44859 Old 09-26-2015, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by fatbottom View Post
The only power amp I am aware of which can switch off unused channels is one of the Tag Mclaren amplifiers.

For typical av pre switching on your poweramp (from standby) you need a 3.5mm mono to 3.5mm mono cable, if both have the 3.5mm jacks. For my MC-8 the trigger outputs are on a screw down trigger block, so you just snip one 3.5mm end off. The ATI amp has 3.5mm connector.
Funny, my old amp is the Tag McLaren 5x100R and it's got individual triggering of unused channels. But it only works since Tag McLaren used a custom data channel between all units to allow special functionally and syncing between units. Instead of a simple "one bit" (on/off) triggering cable they had a data bus with Ethernet type cables—one Ethernet cable for data in and one cable for data out on each unit. They probably had their own protocol and signal interface, but 8 wires in each cable and separate cables for in and out makes it easy to communicate complex information. Like which channels are used to allow the amp to switch them off at the power stage to lower interference between the amp channels and to lower the temperature and electricity used.

The downside is of course, when you mix with units from other manufacturers. Like now when I need to temporarily replace my P5 amp with Tag McLaren, I have no way to trigger the Tag on/off and it doesn't have any automatic mode. Need to manually press the power button. Like in the old days! :-)

Thanks for the info on trigger cabling! I will get a cable and try tonight. Just for completeness. I still want my P5 to work without faults even if I may find a work around. It just doesn't feel right to have a half-broken amp, especially consider the amount I paid for it.

But still, I've had the Anthem P5 for about five years now and during that time it has worked flawlessly and it's a superb sounding amplifier!

I do like your idea, to have multiple trigger ports on the amp and AV processor to allow separate triggering of stereo and multichannel sound. Similar functionality of the Tag McLaren system but with simple conventional technology instead of a proprietary data bus.

/ Påhl
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post #44128 of 44859 Old 09-26-2015, 06:13 AM
 
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Pretty sure it had a remote control?

http://www.jackvandijk.nl/hifi_tag_mclaren_100x5r.php
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post #44129 of 44859 Old 09-26-2015, 06:29 AM
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It does seem like the amp has the bad circuit board. Anthem might be able to sell you one and you could get a local tech to install it. Is it under warranty?

What Anthem wants is not relevant (unless the unit is still under warranty and they're paying the repair bill) so take the amp to a local, independent repair shop of your choice. Once they confirm the bad component they (or you) could order it from Anthem. Shipping a package that heavy to Canada and back is going to be ridiculously expensive, close to $1000 by air. By sea it will take months.
Unfortunately, it's not under warranty anymore. I've had it for about five years now. But it seems to to have a broken power control circuit. I will contact support and ask them how to proceed. I hope they agree to sell the just the circuit board and ship it. Not expecting it to be cheap though. :-)

I did notice this in the manual:
Quote:
Note: The amplifier is equipped with a thermal shutoff feature.If it overheats, the affected channel will remain off until the temperature falls below the shut off threshold.
This feature is probably causing the symptoms I'm experiencing, but I've done some testing of the temperature and the maximal temp I usually get above the amp is 94° F (34.5° C). Nothing that should case any thermal shutoff and especially not always on the same 4 channels and never on the left front channel. Something must be broken…

/ Påhl
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post #44130 of 44859 Old 09-26-2015, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by fatbottom View Post
Pretty sure it had a remote control?

http://www.jackvandijk.nl/hifi_tag_mclaren_100x5r.php
Yeah, that's correct. Had forgot. I never used it on my old system.

Might be good for me to get some exercise though... :-)

/ Påhl
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