Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1480 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #44371 of 44466 Old 03-01-2016, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenonAVFreak View Post
I have searched the forum on my questions - this was the closest I could come to an answer. It's in the ballpark but not quite it. : ]I am trying to set up a switched power strip that will come on and go off with the D2v power. I have two possible scenarios I’d like to try. Which of the two would be best, so as not to create any issues?

Run 2 wires from the 12V power (+) and ground(-) terminals on the D2v IR terminal block to the (+) and (-) terminals on theIOT power strip relay terminal block to see if the IOT switch is activated and deactivated when the D2V is powered on and off respectively. If the IOT relay switch works properly in this way I’ll then plug my power strip into the relay switch and my peripherals into the power strip making sure not to overload the capacity of either the relay switch or the power strip.

The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices
You use the 12v trigger setup in the Setup Menu to turn your devices ON or OFF by either selecting Power which turns them ALL on and off with the D2 or by selecting an individual source which then turns the device on or off when you select that source


Quote:
Originally Posted by DenonAVFreak View Post
My question on this scenario is: On the Anthem D2v are the12V supply terminals (“12V” and “ground”) on the IR terminal block switched –meaning are they energized/de-energized when the D2v is powered on and off, or is power constantly available to these terminals since they are for IR controllers which are generally used to operate (turn on and off) the D2v?

The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices


Quote:
Originally Posted by DenonAVFreak View Post
Since I do not have a mono cable but have MANY 3.5 mm stereo cables, cut off one end of the 3.5mm stereo cable and try using it to plug in the D2v 12v trigger port #2 (50mA). From the cable I’d connect the shield (bare) wire to the (-) and twist together the red and white (R/L) positive (+) wires and connect these to the(+) of the IOT relay switch to see if that works
Your connection method by cutting the one end of the cable is correct
But you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by DenonAVFreak View Post
My question on this scenario is: Will a stereo 1/8 inch (3.5mm) cable work in the D2v trigger port without issue or must I find a mono cable?
The manual states you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug


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Originally Posted by DenonAVFreak View Post
I realize I could simply try both approaches and see if one or both work but I’d prefer not to harm anything with “random” experimentation. Any help is greatly appreciated - Thanks!
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post #44372 of 44466 Old 03-03-2016, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
New problem video drops out for me, maybe others somewhere in this tread?

When watching Oppo blu-ray, recorded program on Tivo or live show through Tivo, intermittant problem, the video will drop out, but not the audio. If I switch to another source on the D2v, then back to the source I was using, the video will come back, plus sound. Firmware is 3.09.

I had a problem with watching some blu-rays some months back, was recommended I upgrade the D2v firmware. I did.
Now I have this video dropping out problem. Coincidence?

Thought it maybe a hdmi handshake issue, except it's happeing to 2 sources, Oppo, Tivo.

Again, intermittant problem. Maybe watching a source for 10min or 1hr, then lose video not audio.

Hopeful of a simple, try this to fix it reply.
I feel so alone...
Anyone?
Bob? (you know you're my hero)
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post #44373 of 44466 Old 03-03-2016, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
I feel so alone...
Anyone?
Bob? (you know you're my hero)
Not Bob

Describe your all connections.
Each Device to D2
This sounds like it might be a HDMI cable issue
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post #44374 of 44466 Old 03-04-2016, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by thestewman View Post
Not Bob

Describe your all connections.
Each Device to D2
This sounds like it might be a HDMI cable issue
Hi thestewman, thanks for chiming in.

Oppo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
Tivo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
D2v direct to Sharp Elite TV, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
McIntosh MC205 amp XLR cables to D2v

As mentioned, have video and audio, then video drops, audio stays.
It's my understanding that if it were an HDMI issue, I'd loose both. HMDI either works or it doesn't.

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post #44375 of 44466 Old 03-04-2016, 12:06 PM
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Do you have any short non-active cables to test the system? You could only lose video, you wouldn't necessarily lose both it depends on the problem. The HDMI cables are quite possibly the problem, there have been a lot of problems with the Redmere 18gbs technology but manufacturers are still selling them. They have had a very poor yield rate for cables that actually pass a full 18gbs signal.
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post #44376 of 44466 Old 03-04-2016, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Hi thestewman, thanks for chiming in.

Oppo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
Tivo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
D2v direct to Sharp Elite TV, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
McIntosh MC205 amp XLR cables to D2v

As mentioned, have video and audio, then video drops, audio stays.
It's my understanding that if it were an HDMI issue, I'd loose both. HMDI either works or it doesn't.
It sounds like your setup is failing the copy protection check which happens periodically (every 10 minutes or so) in the background. Normally you don't know that it is happening, but if the check fails than an HDMI retry gets started and things get muted while that is happening. That could mean loss of either audio or video or both depending on where in your HDMI chain things are failing. Usually a retry will restore the signal in a matter of a few seconds. But if video is not coming back even if you wait, then that's a nastier problem.

I'd say the first thing to try is to simply reseat every HDMI plug in your setup -- both ends of each cable. Pull the plug and put it back in. Make sure it is fully inserted straight into the socket and that nothing (e.g., cable weight or kinks in the cable) is tugging it in any direction. If you have a plug that's being tugged, try supporting the cable near the plug. HDMI is only a friction fit, and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Since you are just losing video, the logical place to check is the cable between the D2v and your TV, but HDMI is an end to end protocol so any cable in the signal path could be the culprit.

Also, since you are using the Redmere cables, double check that you have them all plugged in the right way around. Redmere is directional. You need to have the correct choice of plug at the source end and the destination end.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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post #44377 of 44466 Old 03-04-2016, 03:57 PM
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Hi Bob, as always, thank you.

I'll address the items you've pointed out.
Didn't know about copy protection happening every 10 minutes, do now, thank you.

Is there copy protection on everything? This is happening when watching live tv or recorded programs (from OTA) like Judge Judy through the Tivo. (If only when watching dvd's I'd think of copy protection being the culprit)

I've already made sure the HDMI connections where snug on every item. One of the reasons I went with RedMere was to eliminate the problem of cable weight stressing the HDMI port.

RedMere cables are directional, true, and if inserted the wrong way, they simply do not work. So I can eliminate that from the check list.

Next time it happens, I will change source on the tv, then back to original to see if it's the tv's problem.

One of the reasons I post these "challenges" is in case this happens to others, they might find the solution here, like I'm hopeful for.

Anthem D2v, McIntosh MC205, Elite PRO-70X5FD, Oppo BDP-103, Richard Gray Power Company 400S, B&W Nautilus, JL Audio Fathom f113, Harmony One, Tivo

Last edited by bekindrewind; 03-04-2016 at 04:01 PM.
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post #44378 of 44466 Old 03-04-2016, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Hi Bob, as always, thank you.

I'll address the items you've pointed out.
Didn't know about copy protection happening every 10 minutes, do now, thank you.

Is there copy protection on everything? This is happening when watching live tv or recorded programs (from OTA) like Judge Judy through the Tivo. (If only when watching dvd's I'd think of copy protection being the culprit)

I've already made sure the HDMI connections where snug on every item. One of the reasons I went with RedMere was to eliminate the problem of cable weight stressing the HDMI port.

RedMere cables are directional, true, and if inserted the wrong way, they simply do not work. So I can eliminate that from the check list.

Next time it happens, I will change source on the tv, then back to original to see if it's the tv's problem.

One of the reasons I post these "challenges" is in case this happens to others, they might find the solution here, like I'm hopeful for.
Borrow, steal or somehow obtain a regular hi speed HDMI cable and exchange it for the Monoprice cable to the display.

Another test. Bypass the D2v and go direct from the Tivo to the display using one of the alternate inputs. You do not need HDMI 2.0 for the Tivo.
Let us know the results
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post #44379 of 44466 Old 03-04-2016, 07:49 PM
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Copy protection (HDCP authentication) happens approximately every 2 seconds not 10 minutes.
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post #44380 of 44466 Old 03-04-2016, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin. W View Post
I emailed Anthem to see if they would upgrade the AVM50v3D to a new board with 4k pass through. Answer was "NO"

It is likely that such an Anthem-built board would cost 50-60% of the price of an entire AVM-60.

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post #44381 of 44466 Old 03-05-2016, 01:32 AM
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The term pass through with HDMI does not do what many think. It doesn't bypass the circuitry to the output. That would change impedance and capacitance and likely make the signal unreadable. The signal needs to be repeated and the audio needs to be taken from the signal. This would require newer 18gbs HDMI chips and possibly other processing chips in the D2 to integrate with these chips. If it was practical to do it would probably be expensive, my guess is it is not practical.
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post #44382 of 44466 Old 03-05-2016, 01:00 PM
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The HDMI cables are quite possibly the problem, there have been a lot of problems with the Redmere 18gbs technology but manufacturers are still selling them. They have had a very poor yield rate for cables that actually pass a full 18gbs signal.
Have not hear about that.
1. What problems?
2. They have had a very poor yield rate for cables that actually pass a full 18gbs signal.
Would you please provide some links to where I can read about both of those points.
Thank you.

PS. I just found this on Monoprices site.
Monoprice sells 2 types of Active High speed HDMI cables it seems. Both have Monoprice stamped on the connector. #1 with RedMere built in and the other, #2 I’ll assume a generic name not mentioned.

#1 …Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology, 10ft Red. (cost $20.61)

#2 …Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable, 10ft Silver. (cost $15.29). The Monoprice Ultra Slim Active High Speed HDMI® Cable series is designed with the thinnest TVs in mind. The small form factor connector heads fit perfectly in tight spaces, while the ultra thin 36AWG cable is more flexible and easier to route. Built into this small package is an active HDMI chipset, which ensures the most reliable signal transmissions to support 4K, 3D, and other bandwidth intensive features.

Think both are equal in quality?
I bought the RedMere years ago. Monoprice did not offer the other option back then.

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Last edited by bekindrewind; 03-05-2016 at 01:29 PM.
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post #44383 of 44466 Old 03-05-2016, 01:06 PM
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This is anecdotal, but Lumagen recommended me to ditch my Redmere style cables:

Official Lumagen RadianceMini 3D thread.

Depends a lot on your hardware.
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post #44384 of 44466 Old 03-05-2016, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post
This is anecdotal, but Lumagen recommended me to ditch my Redmere style cables:

Official Lumagen RadianceMini 3D thread.

Depends a lot on your hardware.
I recommend you ditch all your gear. Kidding, nice stuff.

I should ditch all my gear and get a retro all in one unit by Soundesign. Ya know from the 70's with the record player on top, 8-track player, silver face plate, cylinder flip toggles, sliders and genuine imitation woodgrain vinyl on mdf side pieces. Who needs RedMere, right. Man I've been overthinking my HT system. KISS, right.
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post #44385 of 44466 Old 03-05-2016, 04:59 PM
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I recommend giving all your equipment to me


Anyway this is copied from one of my professional forums (not open to public) with HDMI industry gurus.


"Note: Redmere (Spectra 7) has introduced an 18 Gbps cable (Monoprice is already shipping said cables), however the current failure rate is damn near 100% (they even have issues at 10 Gbps where the older models did not). Currently China mfgrs cannot even get their (purchased from Spectra 7 and expensive) active cable programmers to work, this means that the cable must be sent to Redmere in Ca. for programming and then back to China for terminal over-molding and packaging. even with this the failure rate is "way" not exceptable. There is also no possibility of EDID repair built into this module from Redmere. Be careful for promises."




Current recommendations for HDMI with 18gbs.


5 meter and under a good passive cable.


Up to 15 meters a good passive cable with a signal restorer or an active cable. if you can't change the cable easily I would look at the passive cable with a signal restorer.


over 15 meters fiber optic extenders.


DPL Labs, UL, and HDMI will have cable certifications for 18gbs. I don't think HDMI and UL have their program up and running yet. DPL is available and their testing is more stringent than the 18gbs spec. For products that have passed DPL testing look here.
http://www.dpllabs.com/page/dpl-approved-products


If you don't have HDMI test equipment, test the system with short 2m or less passive cables. Although some shorter cables have problems with 18gbs it is less likely. If the system works with short cables and not with longer ones you have a cable problem. Swapping cables between devices or bypassing devices is not the way to diagnose an HDMI system. There is a lot going on with HDMI especially when dealing with repeaters (anything between the source and display like receivers, switches, processors, etc.) and the repeaters often get blamed when it is really other issues.
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post #44386 of 44466 Old 03-05-2016, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post



The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices
You use the 12v trigger setup in the Setup Menu to turn your devices ON or OFF by either selecting Power which turns them ALL on and off with the D2 or by selecting an individual source which then turns the device on or off when you select that source





The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices




Your connection method by cutting the one end of the cable is correct
But you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug



The manual states you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug


I’d like to report my results in case this may be helpful to others. I connected a 1/8 inch (3.5 mm) mono plug to the 12v trigger port #2. The other end was cut off and the shield (bare) wire was connected to the (-) terminal and the core positive wire to the (+) terminal of the IOT relay switch. I enabled trigger 2 in the D2v menu and the IOT switch worked as expected.

I calculated the current draw of my devices to ensure adequate switch capacity using a web tool. I then plugged my peripherals into the power strip and everything turns on and off with the processor.

This solution was used to replace a failed and now discontinued XANTECH AC1. I selected the IOT switch over a Niles AC3, and various other “current sensing” power solutions like the Niles CS12V, or the Smart Strip products because the current sensing products I’ve used have worked for a while and then quit working. Using this triggered solution makes certain my devices power cycle with the processor.The IOT switch I used is: http://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Encl.../dp/B00WV7GMA2
From Data Loggers. It appears well built and works well. My only gripe is that when it operates there is quite a loud click from it. Otherwise it does just what it’s supposed to do, efficiently and inexpensively.
Thanks
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post #44387 of 44466 Old 03-05-2016, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
I recommend giving all your equipment to me

Anyway this is copied from one of my professional forums (not open to public) with HDMI industry gurus.

"Note: Redmere (Spectra 7) has introduced an 18 Gbps cable (Monoprice is already shipping said cables), however the current failure rate is damn near 100% (they even have issues at 10 Gbps where the older models did not). Currently China mfgrs cannot even get their (purchased from Spectra 7 and expensive) active cable programmers to work, this means that the cable must be sent to Redmere in Ca. for programming and then back to China for terminal over-molding and packaging. even with this the failure rate is "way" not exceptable. There is also no possibility of EDID repair built into this module from Redmere. Be careful for promises."

Current recommendations for HDMI with 18gbs.

5 meter and under a good passive cable.

Up to 15 meters a good passive cable with a signal restorer or an active cable. if you can't change the cable easily I would look at the passive cable with a signal restorer.

over 15 meters fiber optic extenders.

DPL Labs, UL, and HDMI will have cable certifications for 18gbs. I don't think HDMI and UL have their program up and running yet. DPL is available and their testing is more stringent than the 18gbs spec. For products that have passed DPL testing look here.
http://www.dpllabs.com/page/dpl-approved-products

If you don't have HDMI test equipment, test the system with short 2m or less passive cables. Although some shorter cables have problems with 18gbs it is less likely. If the system works with short cables and not with longer ones you have a cable problem. Swapping cables between devices or bypassing devices is not the way to diagnose an HDMI system. There is a lot going on with HDMI especially when dealing with repeaters (anything between the source and display like receivers, switches, processors, etc.) and the repeaters often get blamed when it is really other issues.
Oh man, that's not instilling confidence in the, my cables are not the problem, scenario.
Ok, you say, I recommend giving all your equipment to me
The only thing I call equipment in my system will now be RedMere HDMI cables.

Now the jury is still out if my cables are the problem.

Anthem D2v, McIntosh MC205, Elite PRO-70X5FD, Oppo BDP-103, Richard Gray Power Company 400S, B&W Nautilus, JL Audio Fathom f113, Harmony One, Tivo
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post #44388 of 44466 Old 03-09-2016, 11:25 AM
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Would be interesting to know if you hear a marked difference in 2-ch direct audio between the D2 and D2v.
So far audio seems the just as good as before, but the video processing in the D2v is way better.

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post #44389 of 44466 Old 03-09-2016, 11:36 AM
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Well that's probably because there is video processing in the D2V. The AVM60 does not process video (other than adding the OSD).
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post #44390 of 44466 Old 03-09-2016, 12:08 PM
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I thought he was comparing the D2 to the D2v not AVM60.
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post #44391 of 44466 Old 03-09-2016, 02:40 PM
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And theoretically I passed reading class
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post #44392 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
New problem video drops out for me, maybe others somewhere in this tread?

When watching Oppo blu-ray, recorded program on Tivo or live show through Tivo, intermittant problem, the video will drop out, but not the audio. If I switch to another source on the D2v, then back to the source I was using, the video will come back, plus sound. Firmware is 3.09.

I had a problem with watching some blu-rays some months back, was recommended I upgrade the D2v firmware. I did.
Now I have this video dropping out problem. Coincidence?

Thought it maybe a hdmi handshake issue, except it's happeing to 2 sources, Oppo, Tivo.

Again, intermittant problem. Maybe watching a source for 10min or 1hr, then lose video not audio.

Hopeful of a simple, try this to fix it reply.
I am having problems with my TiVo also (D2v)
in Netflix, if switching from 1080p to 720p I don't get a picture/audio
if I bypass the D2v to my PJ, works perfectly
if I disable 1080p in TiVo, then it works properly

mark
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post #44393 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
I recommend giving all your equipment to me

Anyway this is copied from one of my professional forums (not open to public) with HDMI industry gurus.

"Note: Redmere (Spectra 7) has introduced an 18 Gbps cable (Monoprice is already shipping said cables), however the current failure rate is damn near 100% (they even have issues at 10 Gbps where the older models did not). Currently China mfgrs cannot even get their (purchased from Spectra 7 and expensive) active cable programmers to work, this means that the cable must be sent to Redmere in Ca. for programming and then back to China for terminal over-molding and packaging. even with this the failure rate is "way" not exceptable. There is also no possibility of EDID repair built into this module from Redmere. Be careful for promises."
Ellebob,
True that problem was when Monoprice first brought those to market years ago. Monoprice was aware of it and replaced them. (Google it and found that information). I think that problem has been fixed now. My search for RedMere HDMI cables being sold by various vendors say they are problem free. I think RedMere addressed the problem.

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post #44394 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Ellebob,
True that problem was when Monoprice first brought those to market years ago. Monoprice was aware of it and replaced them. (Google it and found that information). I think that problem has been fixed now. My search for RedMere HDMI cables being sold by various vendors say they are problem free. I think RedMere addressed the problem.
You maybe correct the Redmere problem may no longer exist. That does not correct your problem. How about getting another set of HDMI cables ? Without or with RedMere. You decide. Current technology in cables may be OK without RedMere unless your cables are 50+ feet. I have older HiSpeed Monoprice cables without RedMere that are 25ft in length . They work perfectly with 4K video and below.
You may possibly fix your current problem which might be a HDMI cable problem.
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post #44395 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 01:57 PM
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The problem is current with the18gbs chips not years ago. That post quoted was in the last two weeks I talked to one of the industry experts and each company is blaming the other. Redmere says their chips are fine but not being implemented correctly in manufacturing. The cable manufacturer is blaming the chip. Either way they are not working,
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post #44396 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
The problem is current with the18gbs chips not years ago. That post quoted was in the last two weeks I talked to one of the industry experts and each company is blaming the other. Redmere says their chips are fine but not being implemented correctly in manufacturing. The cable manufacturer is blaming the chip. Either way they are not working,
Sorry, but I've spent a lot of time on google researching RedMere HDMI cables and it's not as dooming as you're pointing out.
When I google RedMere Spectra 7 that comes up as 2012. I can't find what post you're talking about that was quoted in the last two weeks about the 18gbs RedMere. I'd like to read it.

I'm not defending RedMere, but I don't think it's as cut and dry as your eluding to. I've found nothing on the web that backs that up. Where is that post? Maybe you could provide a link or two that elaborates on that, for I can't find it anywhere. Again, not defending RedMere or praising them. Just trying to be more informed.

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post #44397 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 03:38 PM
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You maybe correct the Redmere problem may no longer exist. That does not correct your problem. How about getting another set of HDMI cables ? Without or with RedMere. You decide. Current technology in cables may be OK without RedMere unless your cables are 50+ feet. I have older HiSpeed Monoprice cables without RedMere that are 25ft in length . They work perfectly with 4K video and below.
You may possibly fix your current problem which might be a HDMI cable problem.
Thank you for that suggestion. I tried it.
I've replaced my RedMere cables with regular HDMI and my intermittant video dropout still happens. NOT the cables. I want it to be a cable fix, easiest and least expensive, but it's not the RedMere's problem.

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post #44398 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 05:54 PM
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Thank you for that suggestion. I tried it.
I've replaced my RedMere cables with regular HDMI and my intermittant video dropout still happens. NOT the cables. I want it to be a cable fix, easiest and least expensive, but it's not the RedMere's problem.
How long of cables? Did you test with short cables?
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post #44399 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 06:53 PM
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Can anyone opine on how good a measuring tool is "quick measure" using ARC?

Is it as accurate as REW is purported to be?

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post #44400 of 44466 Old 03-10-2016, 08:02 PM
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You can do 90% of what you need with quick measure compared to REW. It is a powerful tool and can be used for a lot more than just setting distance, levels and EQ.
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