Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1494 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #44791 of 44805 Old 03-21-2017, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Egan View Post
The bass and treble are remembered regardless of input but the sub always goes back to zero. I don't change the input often it's usually on satellite. Not the end of the world just annoying.
The Sub setting is not remember per Source input. It's remembered per audio input format type. I.e., LPCM 2.0, or DD 5.1.
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post #44792 of 44805 Old 03-21-2017, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
The Sub setting is not remember per Source input. It's remembered per audio input format type. I.e., LPCM 2.0, or DD 5.1.
--Bob
Where in setup is that? My on screen display doesn't work for some reason and I have to navigate using the front of the D2, I hate going in there for fear of messing up the settings. I bought the ARC-1 kit when it came out but using it was a nightmare and haven't changed any settings since. Thanks for your help.
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post #44793 of 44805 Old 03-21-2017, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Egan View Post
Where in setup is that? My on screen display doesn't work for some reason and I have to navigate using the front of the D2, I hate going in there for fear of messing up the settings. I bought the ARC-1 kit when it came out but using it was a nightmare and haven't changed any settings since. Thanks for your help.
The setting I'm talking about is one of the "temporary" speaker level trims you access using the buttons on the remote -- i.e., *NOT* in the Setup menu. As I recall, on the D2 remote, these are the 4 buttons on the corners surrounding the 4 Arrow buttons in the middle of the remote.

One of those is the Sub/LFE button. Press once to view the temporary Sub trim in the front panel display. The temporary speaker trims are not found anywhere in Setup menu.

The trick with these temporary settings is that they are tied to a given audio input format, so you have to be playing the type of audio you want to adjust before you make the adjustment or view the current adjustment.
--Bob
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post #44794 of 44805 Old 03-21-2017, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Egan View Post
Where in setup is that? My on screen display doesn't work for some reason and I have to navigate using the front of the D2, I hate going in there for fear of messing up the settings. I bought the ARC-1 kit when it came out but using it was a nightmare and haven't changed any settings since. Thanks for your help.
Stop screwing around with tone controls or sub levels and run ARC properly. If you need more bass do it in ARC target options, search for "room gain".

"This one goes to eleven." Martin Logan Descent-i subwoofer

Last edited by AVfile; 03-21-2017 at 10:38 PM.
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post #44795 of 44805 Old 03-22-2017, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
The setting I'm talking about is one of the "temporary" speaker level trims you access using the buttons on the remote -- i.e., *NOT* in the Setup menu. As I recall, on the D2 remote, these are the 4 buttons on the corners surrounding the 4 Arrow buttons in the middle of the remote.

One of those is the Sub/LFE button. Press once to view the temporary Sub trim in the front panel display. The temporary speaker trims are not found anywhere in Setup menu.

The trick with these temporary settings is that they are tied to a given audio input format, so you have to be playing the type of audio you want to adjust before you make the adjustment or view the current adjustment.
--Bob
Thanks, I understand what you are saying. I just wish they weren't temporary.
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post #44796 of 44805 Old 03-22-2017, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by AVfile View Post
Stop screwing around with tone controls or sub levels and run ARC properly. If you need more bass do it in ARC target options, search for "room gain".
No I wasn't impressed with the results after ARC and it took forever to do, kept getting error/fail messages which forced me to repeat the measurements over and over again, I'm done with that. Bought a new SVS sub and it's fine with manual adjustments. But thanks so much for your "helpful" advice.
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post #44797 of 44805 Old 03-22-2017, 07:20 AM
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Thanks, I understand what you are saying. I just wish they weren't temporary.
They aren't "Temporary" in the sense you are talking about. Those volume trims should survive a power cycle.

They are "temporary" in the sense that they are not part of the calibrated setup of you D2 -- the ARC solution. I.e., they are adjustments you make to taste, without altering the actual ARC solution.

If your Sub/LFE button settings are not surviving a power cycle -- and assuming you set them and checked them while playing the same type of audio format -- then there is something wrong with your D2.

Since you also can't get your Setup menu to display on the TV screen you should probably talk to Anthem Tech Support. They will likely suggest you try a re-install of the firmware, which will also mean doing a Reset and re-entering your Setup settings afterwards. (Save your Settings to User or Installer settings memory to speed up the restore after the firmware re-install.) That should include a re-Upload of your ARC solution (no need to re-Measure). The ARC data room correction parameters are not saved when you save settings to the User or Installer memory.

--Bob

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post #44798 of 44805 Old 03-22-2017, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
They aren't "Temporary" in the sense you are talking about. Those volume trims should survive a power cycle.

They are "temporary" in the sense that they are not part of the calibrated setup of you D2 -- the ARC solution. I.e., they are adjustments you make to taste, without altering the actual ARC solution.

If your Sub/LFE button settings are not surviving a power cycle -- and assuming you set them and checked them while playing the same type of audio format -- then there is something wrong with your D2.

Since you also can't get your Setup menu to display on the TV screen you should probably talk to Anthem Tech Support. They will likely suggest you try a re-install of the firmware, which will also mean doing a Reset and re-entering your Setup settings afterwards. (Save your Settings to User or Installer settings memory to speed up the restore after the firmware re-install.) That should include a re-Upload of your ARC solution (no need to re-Measure). The ARC data room correction parameters are not saved when you save settings to the User or Installer memory.

--Bob
OK thanks Bob, guess I'll just have to deal with it. I don't have the necessary connections on my current computer to do a new firmware install, it was updated to 1.33 years ago. And no longer have the old ARC data and wouldn't be able to re-upload it anyway.
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post #44799 of 44805 Old 03-22-2017, 01:06 PM
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I should be joining the D2 thread next Monday. I am a big fan of Anthem electronics having a 510 upstairs, a 710 downstairs in my listening room (pre, pro, and amp at this point are in use). My listening room is small so ARC helps immensely. Toggling it on and off is a stark, and positive change.

I am about 95% stereo, 5% multichannel audio, no video/movies in this room. Of that 2 channel number, about 95% of that is from my turntable (George Merrill PolyTable "Super 12" for anyone curious) so I route analog into the 710, it gets processed and amplified out to Dyn Focus 260 speakers and two very carefully-set up SVS sealed 12" subs. I don't like "boom" but I like bass I can feel, just the way it is.

So, I found on ebay today a D2 with Arc for $999. I jumped on it, as that's quite a bit lower than I remember seeing on any other used audio gear sites, but I know it isn't the deal of the century by any means. I'm wondering just how much, if any, improvement I'll see over the 710 with how I'm using it.

I do have an outboard amp that should be returning from service later this week, an Odyssey Audio Stratos Plus with a few upgrades done to it. In the meantime, if that's not back by next monday, I will set up the 710 to be "direct mode" or whatever they call it, and have to somehow deal with having two preamps in the chain until I get my Stratos back, but effectively using the amp section of the 710 only.

Once the Odyssey gets back, I may move the 710 upstairs and offload the 510, I'm not quite sure on that yet.

Either way, I'm excited to see how the improved analog and DAC sections work in the D2 compared to my 710. Maybe it won't be much of any difference? I'm not sure.

Now to hunt down a long serial cable...

Todd
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post #44800 of 44805 Old 03-28-2017, 06:05 PM
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Well, I've searched all over and cannot find an answer. My D2 showed up and I've been trying for two days now to get my PC to recognize it as an audio device, using an HDMI cable that goes from my nVidia GPU to any of the HDMI inputs (I've tried them all and mapped the source digital input appropriately within the D2) and I get nothing. No audio device for D2 or AVMX0 or anything showing up in Playback Devices. When I open the nVidia driver/control panel and look, it just says "No device connected for video or audio output" on the HDMI output field.

Not sure what to try next. I've booted the PC while the D2 was on, and vice versa.

Any ideas or am I just SOL here?
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post #44801 of 44805 Old 03-28-2017, 09:15 PM
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It just got a little more weird. I loaded up the latest Intel drivers to support the onboard GPU/HDMI output and now, when I have the D2 plugged into that output, I still get nothing - until I turn the D2 off. When I power down the D2, I can see it listed as a display option in the Intel graphics control panel. As soon as I power the D2 up, it disappears as a choice in that window, in fact the whole onboard GPU shuts down and is no longer an option in my system tray and so forth. If I check device manager while the unit is off but plugged in via HDMI, I see "Generic PnP monitor" which isn't all that surprising.

I love computers and technology, but this is driving me nuts.
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post #44802 of 44805 Old Yesterday, 05:27 AM
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It just got a little more weird. I loaded up the latest Intel drivers to support the onboard GPU/HDMI output and now, when I have the D2 plugged into that output, I still get nothing - until I turn the D2 off. When I power down the D2, I can see it listed as a display option in the Intel graphics control panel. As soon as I power the D2 up, it disappears as a choice in that window, in fact the whole onboard GPU shuts down and is no longer an option in my system tray and so forth. If I check device manager while the unit is off but plugged in via HDMI, I see "Generic PnP monitor" which isn't all that surprising.

I love computers and technology, but this is driving me nuts.
The usual problem is that the HDMI output card in the PC is trying to use a non-standard resolution for home theater video. Check to be sure you have it set to put out a standard home theater resolution such as 1080i/60. In some cases the problem happens while the card powers up, and it never gets things going again when it tries to use the correct resolution.

You may be able to cure the problem (assuming you have the card set to output the correct stuff), by forcing a new HDMI handshake. Do this by switching the D2 to a different HDMI input (perhaps one that's not even cabled) and back.
--Bob

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post #44803 of 44805 Old Yesterday, 06:05 AM
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Hi Bob, thank you! I could see that from the nVidia GPU as it was also outputting 3440 x 1440 to my 34" ultrawide monitor via DisplayPort. Interestingly it doesn't have an issue into the 710 in the same config I tried on the D2 but I do realize the 710 is quite a bit more "modern" than the D2 especially with respect to HDMI ports.

When I get the Intel GPU to recognize the D2 (D2 powered off), it reports a screen resolution of 1280 x 720p x 60 which is what I configured the D2 scaler to be on Video Config 1. I have not tried alternate resolutions on that. If the D2 is not recognized, I don't seem to have a way to alter the output resolution of the Intel GPU.

Regardless, I will play with that a bit more tonight and try to force other handshakes; I only have the one HDMI device so anything else I configure will lack a cable.

Another item that may be noteworthy - I'm using a very good, but quite lengthy HDMI cable; roughly 4M long. The PC and Receiver/D2 are separated by a good bit. Again, no issues with the 710 on the same cable but not sure if that could impact the D2 at all.

I do have a ticket open with Anthem as of Monday night but so far, no response.

Thank you for taking a peek!
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post #44804 of 44805 Old Yesterday, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
The usual problem is that the HDMI output card in the PC is trying to use a non-standard resolution for home theater video. Check to be sure you have it set to put out a standard home theater resolution such as 1080i/60. In some cases the problem happens while the card powers up, and it never gets things going again when it tries to use the correct resolution.

You may be able to cure the problem (assuming you have the card set to output the correct stuff), by forcing a new HDMI handshake. Do this by switching the D2 to a different HDMI input (perhaps one that's not even cabled) and back.
--Bob
I think I got it working! I noticed that when the resolution did come up as "Statement D2" in the Intel control panel, the refresh rate was 59 for some reason. I changed that to 60, powered up the D2 and the HDMI went out, but came back on, we were getting somewhere! Now, it still refused to show up as an Audio device, not sure why, but I went ahead and plugged it back into the nVidia GPU, same place it's been for most of my testing, and now it's fine. I just played some audio into it and it shows PCM and all seems to be well.
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post #44805 of 44805 Old Today, 03:49 AM
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Strange ARC results

I have made a new ARC measurement and got some strange results.

First I made the speaker calibration within the D2's setup menu using a SPL (wide, C, slow settings). In order to get to 75 Db I had to lower the line level output by some 8 Db. Then made the ARC measurement and got the channel charts with roughly around 60 Db output level (see image 1).

Then I raised the output level in the speaker calibration by +15 DB (the SPL measurements showed around 90 Db now) and rerun ARC. Now the output levels on ARC's chart show around 74 DB within the main frequency range of around 100 Hz to 5 KHz.

What is wrong? is there anything wrong? How would you interpret the charts?
thanks for suggestions.
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