Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 322 - AVS Forum
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Receivers, Amps, and Processors > Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide
TREVLAN's Avatar TREVLAN 07:02 AM 10-28-2007
Ben, you need to contact Nick at Anthem and they will mail you out the new version.

In about a month it should be on the website.


Trev

BLT's Avatar BLT 10:00 AM 10-28-2007
Hi guys:

I currently have an Anthem AVM 20 and I also have the new Pioneer Elite Pro 150FD(which is amazing ). I guess my question is do you think it would be worth the upgrgrade to the AVM 50? My current system consists of Pio BDP 94HD,Paradigm Studio Series 100's and matching fronts and surrounds and 2 Paradigm PW 2200 subwoofers,along with HD satellite. I would like to be able to have a one cable solution to my display but what I really like is the idea of multichannel Pcm over HDMI. I currently use the analog outs on the 94.

Thanks:

Bob
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 10:10 AM 10-28-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by benleeys View Post

Bob, am using ver. 1.11 software. Anybody else having this problem with this ver? Understand there's a newer version available, but it's not on Anthem's website yet for download.

Ben

Ben there are several important fixes for Component video input since the original V1.11 software. The two most significant deal with (1) loss of all video (from all sources) due to attempting 1080i or 1080p input, and (2) image quality issues specific to Component 480i input. Not all V1.11 users have these problems so we haven't been recommending folks upgrade to the new software until Anthem does a formal release (on the web site) or you actually run into a problem.

However I don't know of a software fix specific to loss of ability to sync up with the Component video input such as you describe. The Anthem tech support people may have more info for you.

Three things to check. Make sure Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock is turned OFF for that input (select that input and then hold down the "7" key on the remote until the Video Source Adjust menu pops up). Next make sure your Setup / Video Output setting is NOT trying to send /24 (24 frames per second) video output from the Anthem to your TV when viewing 480i or 1080i content. Third if you have fiddled with the settings for that input in the Video Source Adjust / Picture / Video ADC menu, try returning those Video ADC menu items back to their original settings.

If you have NOT fiddled with those settings, then you might try a few tweeks in the Video ADC menu. This menu adjusts how the Anthem's video digitizer (ADC = Analog to Digital Converter) evaluates the analog Component video input signal it is trying to digitize. Mostly it is for dealing with oddball Component (and S-video) devices that put out a strange analog video signal. Your Denon should not be doing that.

If those checks don't fix the problem for you, you should definitely call Anthem tech support. They will likely ask you to install the latest software just to be sure your problem isn't fixed by that. If the latest software doesn't resolve your problem they may need to look at the Component input hardware in your Anthem.
--Bob
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 10:17 AM 10-28-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by TREVLAN View Post

OK I've got another issue I am needing help with.

How come I can not use any surround fields?

Cable I can use everything
dvd I can only add thx and re-eq
ps3 I can only add thx and re-eq
360 I can only add thx and re-eq
sacd/dvd-a I can only add thx and re-eq

What am I doing wrong or not seeing?

See this post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread

* Why can't I get to the audio processing mode I want?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post9627851

Some of the surround stuff is only available if you happen to be listening to a mono or stereo signal at the moment. Those surround algorithms deal with how mono or stereo audio is raised to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output. Other surround stuff is only available if you have rear surround speakers configured (a 7.1 speaker setup). And turning THX on also changes (limits) what surround stuff is available.
--Bob
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 10:24 AM 10-28-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLT View Post

Hi guys:

I currently have an Anthem AVM 20 and I also have the new Pioneer Elite Pro 150FD(which is amazing ). I guess my question is do you think it would be worth the upgrgrade to the AVM 50? My current system consists of Pio BDP 94HD,Paradigm Studio Series 100's and matching fronts and surrounds and 2 Paradigm PW 2200 subwoofers,along with HD satellite. I would like to be able to have a one cable solution to my display but what I really like is the idea of multichannel Pcm over HDMI. I currently use the analog outs on the 94.

Thanks:

Bob

Absolutely! Your setup will love the improved audio. Consider a D2 as well.

In addition, Anthem will (eventually) get their remaining problems fixed with 480i/60 and 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion for film based content (i.e., movies on standard DVD and on SDTV/HDTV). That's not working right yet, but when it is you'll be able to enjoy cadence judder-free viewing of that content on your Pioneer as well.

By the way, if you have experimented with 1080p/24 input into your Pioneer Elite 150FD, I'm sure folks would be interested to hear how well it seems to be working. And if do switch to the AVM-50 or D2, please also report on whether you run into any problems with 1080p/24 from the Anthem to the Pioneer.
--Bob
BLT's Avatar BLT 10:37 AM 10-28-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Absolutely! Your setup will love the improved audio. Consider a D2 as well.

In addition, Anthem will (eventually) get their remaining problems fixed with 480i/60 and 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion for film based content (i.e., movies on standard DVD and on SDTV/HDTV). That's not working right yet, but when it is you'll be able to enjoy cadence judder-free viewing of that content on your Pioneer as well.

By the way, if you have experimented with 1080p/24 input into your Pioneer Elite 150FD, I'm sure folks would be interested to hear how well it seems to be working. And if do switch to the AVM-50 or D2, please also report on whether you run into any problems with 1080p/24 from the Anthem to the Pioneer.
--Bob

Thanks for the quick reply Bob

Yes I have experimented with the 1080p/24 input on my new pioneer tv and it works flawless with the 94HD. I also set it to dot by dot with bluray movies as well as having the 94 output set to 1080p/24 (direct) and to my eyes anyway I see no judder.

Thanks and I will let you know how things work out when I get the upgrade hopefully before Christmas.

Cheers:

Bob
benleeys's Avatar benleeys 11:22 AM 10-28-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Ben there are several important fixes for Component video input since the original V1.11 software. .............

If those checks don't fix the problem for you, you should definitely call Anthem tech support. They will likely ask you to install the latest software just to be sure your problem isn't fixed by that. If the latest software doesn't resolve your problem they may need to look at the Component input hardware in your Anthem.
--Bob

Wow, Bob, many thanks for your advice. For a plug and play guy like me, it's something which I shall have to sit down and chew on for a while before coming back and report on how things work out. Basically I am in a sh*t situation in that I am on the other side of the globe and the local distributor knows as much I do on the way the D2 works. And after all I read about the excellent support from Anthem, so far I've not got any response on my 2 attempts at emailing my problem to them.

Wish me luck.
Ben
TREVLAN's Avatar TREVLAN 07:28 PM 10-28-2007
thx Bob Pariseau I ONLY HAVE 5.1 SET UP.
when I play my sacd/dvd-a player [denon 2910] it's hooked up via the 6.0 in the rear of the avm50 i do notice the center channel is really low on most sacd/dvd-a the avm manul says I should let the avm do the process and shut off what the player is doing.
but the center still sounds low.
Also playing movies, some dvds sound great for the center channel and others sound like crap.
same with blue ray its like a hit and miss depends on the movie.
do you think this could be the avm and something is wrong?
note that this happend with the sonyda5es as the amp and same thing with the mca50 as the amp.
i checked the cable for the cc590 paridgim center and the rca cable from the avm to the mca.
i'm at a lost.

all eq is set at 80thx and my center is below the tv and the avm for screen size is set to 56-66 as my tv is 60inch.
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 07:57 PM 10-28-2007
TREVLAN,
The most important thing is to check your speaker levels using the test tones generated by the Anthem itself (Setup / Speaker Level Calibration). Do this with your trusty Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter -- not just by ear. If you have different listening positions, consider taking measurements at each and setting up the best "compromise" set of speaker levels to account for room variations.

If the center channel speaker level is balanced against the other speakers, and the setting makes sense to you (not wildly different from your other speakers), then you can eliminate the speaker itself, the amp, and the wiring as a source of low volume.

---------------------------------------------

The next most important thing is to check your speaker phasing. If you happen to have the wires reversed on any of your speakers then they will be "out of phase" compared to the other speakers. That means the audio they put out will tend to cancel the audio from other speakers -- particularly if the same audio is coming on different channels from the source content.

To test speaker phasing, use a calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). The test will consist of an alternating pair of white noise signals along with a message saying one signal should appear "centered" between the two speakers, while the other signal should appear "diffused or spread out or hard to localize". If those two effects are reversed from what the message says you should be hearing then one of those two speakers has it's two wires connected backwards. You test phasing between pairs of speakers. The calibration DVD will walk you through that for each necessary pair.

------------------------------------------

Once you are certain that the Anthem speaker output levels are balanced and the speakers are in proper phase pair by pair, THEN start fiddling with the other audio settings.

The first thing to do is to make sure you aren't confusing yourself by having some of the "temporary" audio settings in effect. These are the settings you can make on the fly using the remote. These variations in the level settings are remembered for each input AND for each type of audio format from that input. So you may think you have them all set back to their default (0) values when in fact you've just checked for one style of audio and not for some other.

The best thing to do is to clear ALL of those temporary settings. You can do that all at once as follows:

In Setup / Save and Restore Settings:

* Save User Settings
* Reload Factory Defaults (note this may cause you to lose video, but you can continue via the Anthem front panel)
* Restore User Settings

The temporary settings aren't saved, so doing this clears all of them.

-------------------------------------------------

Once you've got that out of the way, the next thing to do is to make sure you have turned off any speaker configuration management that might be offered in any of your source devices. You don't want this speaker management stuff to happen more than once -- you just want the Anthem version to be done.

If some source has speaker configuration options, and doesn't offer a simple way to turn them off, then lie to that source about your true speaker configuration. Tell the source device that:

* You have a complete set of speakers including a subwoofer
* That all your main speakers are "large"
* That all your speakers are at the same listening distance. Any distance will do, so long as they are all set the same.
* That no speaker needs its volume boosted or cut to balance with the other speakers
* That your subwoofer will handle its own crossover (or if that option is not offered, that the subwoofer crossover is as high as the source will let you set)

These settings tell the source to do nothing to the audio before outputting it.

------------------------------------------------

As for the Anthem settings:

Be sure you have each input set to use the correct speaker configuration (Cinema or, if you've set it up, Music).

Personally, I prefer to leave that Center Speaker EQ filter turned off in my setup. Use it according to taste.

Some movies already have "THX Equalization" done on their audio before they are put on the disc. This process adjusts the center channel for the difference between theater and home environments. Read the manual and you'll discover you can turn THX Equalization on or off independent of whether the rest of the THX post processing is turned on. If the center channel sounds incorrect for some movie, try toggling that THX Equalization setting.

-----------------------------------------------

Finally, you may discover you have a room response problem -- a peak or null in frequency response in your room that happens to be in the vicinity of speech frequencies (the bulk of the center channel audio). This is tricky stuff, but if nothing else works, you might want to read up on room acoustic treatments.

The fact that your problem appears to happen only on some movies leads me to believe you either have a speaker phasing problem or that you have some of those "temporary" audio level settings turned on and don't realize it.
--Bob
TREVLAN's Avatar TREVLAN 05:17 AM 10-29-2007
thx Bob , I will print your post off and try this tonight after work.

I will get back to you with my findings.

trev
Kensmith48's Avatar Kensmith48 08:52 AM 10-29-2007
I plan on purchasing a new D2 from a dealer approx. 30 miles away. I tried to E-mail anthem at sfitech@sonicfrontiers.com but it came back as undeliverable. Since I can't reach Anthem cust. serv. I thought I'd ask the experts here. My question is: If I purchase a new D2 will it have all of the upgrades already installed and if not how do I go about installing them after I download from their site? I don't own a laptop so would I have to disconnect the D2 from my system every time there is an upgrade and connect it to my computer?
Thanks for any reply,
Ken
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 09:39 AM 10-29-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

I plan on purchasing a new D2 from a dealer approx. 30 miles away. I tried to E-mail anthem at sfitech@sonicfrontiers.com but it came back as undeliverable. Since I can't reach Anthem cust. serv. I thought I'd ask the experts here. My question is: If I purchase a new D2 will it have all of the upgrades already installed and if not how do I go about installing them after I download from their site? I don't own a laptop so would I have to disconnect the D2 from my system every time there is an upgrade and connect it to my computer?
Thanks for any reply,
Ken

Recent D2s have been shipping with the V1.2 software factory installed.

The version on the Anthem web site is the much older V1.11 -- do NOT load that one onto your D2.

We've had reports here of Anthem tech support emailing out (on request, usually in response to a customer problem report) a "beta test" version V1.21b, and that a V1.21c is expected perhaps even this week. I'd suggest sticking with the V1.2 version for now, unless you run into a problem.

If your computer is within, say 50 feet of your D2, you can use a long serial cable to connect it to the D2 for software installs whenever you need to do them. Even longer might very well work since the data transfer rates are low. But yes, failing that you will need to move the D2 closer to the computer for software installs or get a portable computer. Note that you will also need to hook up the computer when running the analysis and setup for the upcoming Anthem Room EQ upgrade expect around the end of this year.

I'm surprised you had a problem with that email address. You can also CALL Anthem tech support at (905) 362-0958, ext.240.
--Bob

[EDITED to correct test software version numbers.]
Kensmith48's Avatar Kensmith48 10:19 AM 10-29-2007
Thanks for all the info Bob.
Looks like a laptop might be my best option, since the computer is on the 2nd floor and the D2 will be in the basement.
seismo's Avatar seismo 11:01 AM 10-29-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

I plan on purchasing a new D2 from a dealer approx. 30 miles away. I tried to E-mail anthem at sfitech@sonicfrontiers.com but it came back as undeliverable. Since I can't reach Anthem cust. serv. I thought I'd ask the experts here. My question is: If I purchase a new D2 will it have all of the upgrades already installed and if not how do I go about installing them after I download from their site? I don't own a laptop so would I have to disconnect the D2 from my system every time there is an upgrade and connect it to my computer?
Thanks for any reply,
Ken

Hi Kensmith48,

I was in exactly the same situation as you and I did the upgrade yesterday. My dealer is also at about the same distance as yours and I don't have a laptop. I tried to email Anthem and the message also bounced back as endeliverable.

Here is what you have to do:

Call Nick directly at Anthem and tell him that the emails don't work (I did) and then he will probably send you the version that is best for you. Afterwards, you will be able to use his email address and it will work (the address is the same as the one on the web page but go figure?). I made up a 30 ft RS-232 cable and connected it from my computer upstairs to the D2 in the basement. I had no problems whatsoever to do the upgrade..


Good luck
benleeys's Avatar benleeys 11:25 AM 10-29-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by TREVLAN View Post

Ben, you need to contact Nick at Anthem and they will mail you out the new version.

In about a month it should be on the website.


Trev

Yea, thanks, Trev. Think I'll do just that.

By the way, must the D2 remain connected to the system when being upgraded or can I disconnect it so I can move it to my PC some distance away?

Ben
benleeys's Avatar benleeys 11:40 AM 10-29-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Ben .......However I don't know of a software fix specific to loss of ability to sync up with the Component video input such as you describe. ...... try a few tweeks in the Video ADC menu. --Bob

Hi Bob,

I think I got my problem of video signal loss solved, thanks to your suggestion to tweek the Video ADC menu.

After seeing all settings were at default here, I was browsing the other Picture settings and saw that Input Color Space was set at HDTV. I haven't gone over to HD as yet and have been enjoying SD all along. So I simply set it to Auto (in case I play a HD content someday).

Well, after a couple of SD movies, I haven't had a case of video loss yet.

Thanks again for your help.
Ben
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 12:04 PM 10-29-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by benleeys View Post

Yea, thanks, Trev. Think I'll do just that.

By the way, must the D2 remain connected to the system when being upgraded or can I disconnect it so I can move it to my PC some distance away?

Ben

It is actually best to have the D2 NOT connected to anything else when doing a software upgrade. This is particularly important as regards HDMI connections. See the "Belt and Suspenders" post on upgrading the software found in the collection of links in the first post in this thread.

For folks who don't need to move their D2 to do the upgrade, I recommend they disconnect everything but the D2 and the computer from wall power (i.e., leave the cables attached but make sure nothing else has wall power). For some source devices and displays it is NOT sufficient merely to turn them off. Their HDMI sockets are live even when they are off.
--Bob
Tim Winders's Avatar Tim Winders 12:05 PM 10-29-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

It is actually best to have the D2 NOT connected to anything else when doing a software upgrade. This is particularly important as regards HDMI connections. See the "Belt and Suspenders" post on upgrading the software found in the collection of links in the first post in this thread.

For folks who don't need to move their D2 to do the upgrade, I recommend they disconnect everything but the D2 and the computer from wall power (i.e., leave the cables attached but make sure nothing else has wall power). For some source devices and displays it is NOT sufficient merely to turn them off. Their HDMI sockets are live even when they are off.
--Bob

The upgrade instrcutions specifically mention disconnecting all HDMI connections when doing the upgrade.
AltaHomeTheatre's Avatar AltaHomeTheatre 08:53 PM 10-29-2007
Hi to all in this great thread. First time post although I have read the entire thread a couple of times over the last few months.

I have recently installed my first HT and am very happy with the results. I am very much a novice and thus my question may be insulting to some. I may also be posting this in the wrong forum, but you seem to cover a bit of everything here. The question concerns calibrating the subs through my D2.

First a little background: My HT is a dedicated room approximately 12x17. It is in a basement. Walls are doubled for sound insulation. Carpet is on the floor. My equipment consists of Anthem D2 and MCA50. Paradigm Reference speakers. 2 subwoofers (10" Paradigm Siesmic and 15" Klipsch).

My problem is what seems to be a lack of bass "within" the HT room. I hear others talk about bass shaking the entire room (even causing projector lens to shake), but I dont feel much in mine. I have used a sound meter to balance all the speakers to the same level (although I increased subs by a couple of Dbs). Previously, I had the Klipsch upstairs in a larger room powered by a Marantx SR6200 and I could feel the bass.

When a scene with a lot of bass (ie beginning of War of the Worlds) is played, I can turn up the bass enough to start to feel it (increasing bass level on D2 by +7Db from my balanced default setting). With this setting I can feel a bit of the bass. But what is odd, if I go upstairs - the walls, pictures, china, etc are vibrating like crazy. Therfore I know bass is coming out of those subs, but dont know why its not in the HT room. The subs are currently at the front of the HT, but I have experimented with moving them around.

I dont know what to try next. I dont have any room accoustics yet. There is only one leather chair currently in the room. I dont know if the two subs are cancelling each other out (although I get similar results with only one sub). I dont know if I have the D2 configured properly. I dont know if the subs are configured properly. I did go through the very helpful Bob Pariseaus post on configuring his Velodyne sub.

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. I think there must be some way of keeping the bass in the room without having to turn it up so high that the rest of my house is going to shake apart.

Thanks in advance
Darryl
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 09:18 PM 10-29-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by AltaHomeTheatre View Post

Hi to all in this great thread. First time post although I have read the entire thread a couple of times over the last few months.

I have recently installed my first HT and am very happy with the results. I am very much a novice and thus my question may be insulting to some. I may also be posting this in the wrong forum, but you seem to cover a bit of everything here. The question concerns calibrating the subs through my D2.

First a little background: My HT is a dedicated room approximately 12x17. It is in a basement. Walls are doubled for sound insulation. Carpet is on the floor. My equipment consists of Anthem D2 and AVM50. Paradigm Reference speakers. 2 subwoofers (10" Paradigm Siesmic and 15" Klipsch).

My problem is what seems to be a lack of bass "within" the HT room. I hear others talk about bass shaking the entire room (even causing projector lens to shake), but I dont feel much in mine. I have used a sound meter to balance all the speakers to the same level (although I increased subs by a couple of Dbs). Previously, I had the Klipsch upstairs in a larger room powered by a Marantx SR6200 and I could feel the bass.

When a scene with a lot of bass (ie beginning of War of the Worlds) is played, I can turn up the bass enough to start to feel it (increasing bass level on D2 by +7Db from my balanced default setting). With this setting I can feel a bit of the bass. But what is odd, if I go upstairs - the walls, pictures, china, etc are vibrating like crazy. Therfore I know bass is coming out of those subs, but dont know why its not in the HT room. The subs are currently at the front of the HT, but I have experimented with moving them around.

I dont know what to try next. I dont have any room accoustics yet. There is only one leather chair currently in the room. I dont know if the two subs are cancelling each other out (although I get similar results with only one sub). I dont know if I have the D2 configured properly. I dont know if the subs are configured properly. I did go through the very helpful Bob Pariseaus post on configuring his Velodyne sub.

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. I think there must be some way of keeping the bass in the room without having to turn it up so high that the rest of my house is going to shake apart.

Thanks in advance
Darryl

First make sure the crossover inside each sub is disabled. Turn it off or turn it to its highest frequency.

The most common reasons for feeling you don't have enough sub are:

* Insufficient size of subwoofer for the volume of the room that needs to be pressurized. Remember that any openings out of the room increase the work the sub has to do. Fix this by getting a bigger sub or more than one sub. I suspect this is not your problem based on what you are seeing/hearing outside the listening room.

* Room response canceling out critical frequency ranges in the bass area. Every room generates some standing pressure waves in the bass frequencies. When these cancel the audio coming from the sub, the sub has to fight with that cancellation. Fix this by repositioning your subs or putting up bass absorbing room treatments that block the reflections that produce the canceling pressure waves.

* Subs out of phase with each other or out of phase with the main speakers. Again the audio gets canceled out -- this time by direct conflict with audio coming from the other speaker.

------------------------------------------

The Anthem's internal test tones in the Room Response Filter menu can help you determine how bad your room effects are. Set up the basic level for your subs, and then use your SPL meter and the test tones on this page to see how SPL varies as the tone frequency ranges from the crossover to very low frequency. It is not unusual to find some pretty severe dips, and also some surprising peaks.

Repositioning the subs a little at a time, and room treatment, can help eliminate the dips. The Room Response Filter can help eliminate your most dramatic peak.

Take your time and work to get as flat a response as you can. Then readjust the basic speaker level for your sub and do some listening.

------------------------------------------------------

Phase problems in subwoofers are hard to detect by ear. The phase test tones in calibration DVDs can help make sure your sub is properly set for phase against the main speakers. What you are looking for is the phase setting that maximizes the higher end hiss of the bass frequency white noise put out as the test tone. The more of the high end of that low frequency white noise you can hear the less the audio from the mains is canceling the audio from the subs (which cancellation will, naturally, occur at the higher end of the base range -- near the crossover -- where both the mains and the sub are putting out sound).

With two subs, try disconnecting one and setting phase for the other against the mains. You can do this with the phase control in the Anthem or on the sub. Then disconnect that sub and reconnect the second sub and do it again. Note that the phase control in the Anthem applies to both sub outputs, so you can only use it to set one sub. The other sub has to be set with its own internal control. This is also a good time to see that the volume control on each of your two subs is set so that the two subs are contributing roughly the same amount to the bass test tone SPL output.

When each sub is, separately, in phase with the mains, then they must also be in phase with each other.

There are PC graphing programs available that will help you see what's happening to your room response in real time as you make adjustments. See the subwoofer forum here.
--Bob
AltaHomeTheatre's Avatar AltaHomeTheatre 09:36 PM 10-29-2007
Bob,
Thanks very much for the response. I feel honored to have you respond, although not surprised as you have to be the most helpful person I have ever come across on any forum.

I will print and work through your detailed response. I know it will take time and I appreciate the step-by-step guide you have given me. I have ordered the Avia setup disk and I imagine it will also help me out greatly.

Thanks
Darryl
hifisponge's Avatar hifisponge 02:13 AM 10-30-2007
From Bob:
"The Anthem's internal test tones in the Room Response Filter menu can help you determine how bad your room effects are. Set up the basic level for your subs, and then use your SPL meter and the test tones on this page to see how SPL varies as the tone frequency ranges from the crossover to very low frequency. It is not unusual to find some pretty severe dips, and also some surprising peaks.

Repositioning the subs a little at a time, and room treatment, can help eliminate the dips. The Room Response Filter can help eliminate your most dramatic peak.

Take your time and work to get as flat a response as you can. Then readjust the basic speaker level for your sub and do some listening."


I would just like to add the recommendation that you graph out the results of these readings (SPL level on the left vertical side of the graph and frequency along the bottom). It is much easier to get a sense of the width of the peaks and dips if you have a visual of the overall bass response. Creating the graph will also help you set the center frequency for the Anthem's notch filter.
cecaa850's Avatar cecaa850 06:55 AM 10-30-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Absolutely! Your setup will love the improved audio. Consider a D2 as well.


By the way, if you have experimented with 1080p/24 input into your Pioneer Elite 150FD, I'm sure folks would be interested to hear how well it seems to be working. --Bob


I've got a D2 with the Elite Pro150-FD. I haven't seen any judder with HDDVD, BlueRay, DVD or cable. Just an incredible picture.
legacyrocks's Avatar legacyrocks 11:01 PM 10-30-2007
I have an AVM 50 with version 1.12s and a Pioneer Elite Pro 150 FD and have had no problems with a PS3 passing 1080p/24fps.
rudolpht's Avatar rudolpht 12:26 AM 10-31-2007
1.21d getting closer, but experienced shifted screen switching from S3 Tivo to Blu-ray Spiderman 3. Disappointing. The screen went blue multiple times and the play, languages (uncompressed 5.1 is good), and other options floated over no background picture. With some trial and error got picture going without reboot but I assume most people wouldn't have the patience.
benleeys's Avatar benleeys 11:42 AM 10-31-2007
Hi Guys,

The D2 permits the user to tweak brightness, contrast, color, etc. of the image projected on a screen. But these facilities are also found in the player and finally, the projector/TV as well.

My question is, do we tweak them all, or simply tweak in one component in the chain and leave the others alone in default settings? If tweaking is to be done on only one component, which one?

Ben
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 12:02 PM 10-31-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by benleeys View Post

Hi Guys,

The D2 permits the user to tweak brightness, contrast, color, etc. of the image projected on a screen. But these facilities are also found in the player and finally, the projector/TV as well.

My question is, do we tweak them all, or simply tweak in one component in the chain and leave the others alone in default settings? If tweaking is to be done on only one component, which one?

Ben

Check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. That will walk you through the steps.

But the simple answer is you turn OFF any video adjustments in your sources. Then you use the video adjustments in your TV to best reproduce the video test charts internally generated by the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) which are independent of any source device. Then, finally, you adjust the INPUT settings in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture) as necessary to fine tune for each source device.
--Bob
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 12:03 PM 10-31-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolpht View Post

1.21d getting closer, but experienced shifted screen switching from S3 Tivo to Blu-ray Spiderman 3. Disappointing. The screen went blue multiple times and the play, languages (uncompressed 5.1 is good), and other options floated over no background picture. With some trial and error got picture going without reboot but I assume most people wouldn't have the patience.

Do you know of any other bugs reportedly fixed in V1.21c or V1.21d?
--Bob
Tim Winders's Avatar Tim Winders 12:06 PM 10-31-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by benleeys View Post

Hi Guys,

The D2 permits the user to tweak brightness, contrast, color, etc. of the image projected on a screen. But these facilities are also found in the player and finally, the projector/TV as well.

My question is, do we tweak them all, or simply tweak in one component in the chain and leave the others alone in default settings? If tweaking is to be done on only one component, which one?

Ben

You should use the D2 test patterns with the display adjustments to calibrate the screen to the output of the D2. Once you have that correct, you can tweak the adjustements on the D2 for each source as needed. You should set all settings on the sources themselves at mid/default levels.

I'm sure others will expand and correct what I'm saying, but this is a start. There are sections of this thread about setting up and calibrating your screen.
Tim Winders's Avatar Tim Winders 12:07 PM 10-31-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. That will walk you through the steps.

But the simple answer is you turn OFF any video adjustments in your sources. Then you use the video adjustments in your TV to best reproduce the video test charts internally generated by the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) which are independent of any source device. Then, finally, you adjust the INPUT settings in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture) as necessary to fine tune for each source device.
--Bob

Yeah. What Bob said.
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