Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 01:07 PM
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^ Ditto, My name has a "f" not a "ph". I have the slovenia way of spelling.

Seems like I have to sit down longer with the D2. I must say that I'm impressed with everything the D2 can produce.

Any recommend a good remote for the D2? I need something that can do the basic features of all my equipment.
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post #992 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 01:17 PM
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Does the D2 have problems with HDMI-DVI switching because it is just doing this thing with the two components I'm using the HDMI-DVI adapter.
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post #993 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyR1999 View Post

^ Ditto, My name has a "f" not a "ph". I have the slovenia way of spelling.

Seems like I have to sit down longer with the D2. I must say that I'm impressed with everything the D2 can produce.

Any recommend a good remote for the D2? I need something that can do the basic features of all my equipment.

Rudy, FWIW I'm using an MX-950 from Universal Remote. I like the hard keys, not a soft key guy, so the 950 was the top of their hard key line. It is very flexible, allows use of RF and/or IR, which is great, and is controlling everything in my setup across 3 rooms in the house. I still need to tweak the setup a bit, but it is a windows-based config program, connect to a PC via firewire to program, and is pretty cool - they have a database of thousands of components, so training is pretty easy. I also like the form factor. If you're more of a soft key guy, the MX-3000 is supposedly super cool, but requires 2 hands to operate, something I don't like.

I've heard good things of the Harmony remotes as well, similar concept. Not sure if they do RF and IR though. Because I'm using RF, I don't need line of site to anything. I can shut myself in a closet, and still fire up Zone 1 and start playing the Doors from the CD input, while triggering some Chopin in the kids room (Zone 2) from my music server, and tell Zone 3 to switch to Satellite so I can catch up on Sports Center in our bedroom. Oh, then I can let myself out of the closet, so I can quit showing off :-)

Good luck in your search for remote nirvana!
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post #994 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 05:54 PM
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I second the MX line from Universal. I have an MX 850, an MX 700, (in the bedroom now) and had a couple Pronto remotes. Pronto's are nice, but I too, prefer a hard button remote.

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post #995 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zroll1 View Post

Does the D2 have problems with HDMI-DVI switching because it is just doing this thing with the two components I'm using the HDMI-DVI adapter.

Hmm... I wonder if this is my problem too.

My setup:

Oppo 970 ----HDMI----> D2 ---HDMI-DVI-converter---> ---DVI fiber cable---> JVC HX1U projector w/DVI input

I'm consistently having problems with the HDCP handshake. I consistently, pretty much 100% of the time, get the black screen and "Need handshake, HDMI video muted" message. Then, I power down the D2, bring it back up, and now I get the fuzzy "copy protected" image. Then, I go to setup, menu 8, (D2 menu shows up fine), set the resolution to something other than my default 720p/60, say 1080i/60. This forces a resync, and the picture appears correctly. I can then switch back to 720p.

A couple of questions --

Do you have problems with HDMI video muting? What happens when you do?

Are you using HDMI-DVI converters?

What order do you turn your devices on? Source, D2 & display.

If you had HDMI handshaking issues and were able to fix them, what did you do?


By the way, for those who remember my green dots problem.... I've been able to reproduce it with 480i over component inputs from Comcast HD box. This definitely rules out Oppo as the root of the issue. I'm waiting for my replacement D2 from Anthem.

Max
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post #996 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 07:18 PM
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The AVM-50 thread isn't doing so well, so I thought I'd ask this here.

Also, this is my official petition to merge the Official D2 and AVM-50 threads.

---------------------------------------

I have a dumb question:

I just bought a Sirius SR-H550 satellite radio tuner. Currently, I have the unit set up to ouput to my AVM-50 via optical. Would I be better suited setting the digital satellite tuner to output via analog stereo L+R to the processor?

I could see the benefit of setting a dedicated cd player to output analog stereo, but I'm curious what the preferred output would be from a digital satellite radio tuner.

Thoughts?

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post #997 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 07:41 PM
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Nathan, I think the question to ask is whose D-A conversion will be better? The radio tuner's or D2's. I'd put my money on D2. You can try both, see which one sounds better.
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post #998 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yatchaks View Post

I second the MX line from Universal. I have an MX 850, an MX 700, (in the bedroom now) and had a couple Pronto remotes. Pronto's are nice, but I too, prefer a hard button remote.

It's a triple, a MX 950, MX 850 & an MX-800 recently retired to the family room (and an original pronto already retired there too).

The 950 is nice that it can program hold down keys so my JVC HD2K can be put in the macros for full automation.

It sounds like we'll have a couple of MX file variants here too

Rudy-Rudolf

I think playing with the hold down 7 key on Anthem and do some experimenting will fix your aspect ratio issue.

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post #999 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 08:04 PM
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Nathan the limiting factor is probably going to be digital stream from the satellite, so it may not make much difference but if I was hooking it up I'd definitely use the digital out.
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post #1000 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 08:07 PM
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Guess I'll chime in on the remote, another MX-700 user here. Still have a Pronto squirreled away somewhere but hated it.
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post #1001 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan_R View Post

The AVM-50 thread isn't doing so well, so I thought I'd ask this here.

Also, this is my official petition to merge the Official D2 and AVM-50 threads.

---------------------------------------

I have a dumb question:

I just bought a Sirius SR-H550 satellite radio tuner. Currently, I have the unit set up to ouput to my AVM-50 via optical. Would I be better suited setting the digital satellite tuner to output via analog stereo L+R to the processor?

I could see the benefit of setting a dedicated cd player to output analog stereo, but I'm curious what the preferred output would be from a digital satellite radio tuner.

Thoughts?

Nathan, greetings mate! I concur about threads by the way, we have much to learn from each other me thinks :-) So, umm, your question is intriguing, because I too find myself the owner of an SR-H550 Sirius tuner. I am using both the optical output and the stereo output. The reasons I do this are the same reasons I do this for all of my components - that is, I want to have independent switching of sources in every Zone in the house. As Anthem so eloquently notes in the D2 manual, you cannot have independent sourcing of a component in another zone, if you don't have both analog and digital audio, and the corresponding appropriate video, for each zone. So, this makes me a cable supplier's wet dream of course! I have WAY too many cables connecting each of my sources to the D2 - however, this is the price of admission, if you want to truly use the D2 as a multi-zone, multi-source, independent switching demon preamp from hell!

Now that we settled that, I will say that I almost always prefer delivering a digital signal to the D2, rather than analog, for my main listening environment (Zone 1). This way, I can leverage the DAC within the D2 to convert my signal to analog - by doing so, I am making use of a 24 bit/192KHz digital upsampler, which allows the signal to be sampled with greater bit length and at greater range than the SR-H550, or virtually any other, component could do by itself. Now, I will admit that the SR-H550 is probably my worst argument to be made of said upsampling. This thing is receiving compressed signals via satellite, then converting this into digital bits, many of which are lost or "guessed at" in transit, before ever being output as a PCM bit stream. But, in pure point of fact, I will still take my chances with a digital bitstream over analog in this regard. The D2's DAC will get the very most out of whatever signal quality I get in. Normally, and Sirius is to be commended for this, I get VERY good quality satellite radio, and I have been pleasantly surprised on more than one occasion by the quality of the radio content through the D2. It makes FM look like pounding on stone tablets...

So, as for your claim that you would normally deliver a CD player's output over Analog Stereo as opposed to Digital, I am sorry to say that I would throw up a big flag on this one! Unless you are using an incredibly high end CD player, with an extremely good DAC with separate power supply, etc., I would trust the D2's DAC in a heartbeat over just about any CD player's DAC out there. The reasons are familiar to the above - the 24 bit word length, and 192KHZ frame rate of upsampling provides for greater dynamic range, which leads to greater depth of soundstage and higher clarity, than any other method. Of course, with every rule there are exceptions. I myself have a Meridian upsampling CD player as my reference player for all things CD. I have done A/B tests and have found the Meridian's DAC and upsampling to be more full, more rich, than the D2's...so, in my case, I output Analog Stereo via XLR outputs to the "2-channel" XLR inputs on the D2, and I listen in pure, unadulterated "Analog Stereo" from the D2...the soundstage is so wide, and so deep, I find myself calling in sick to work to keep from crying on the job....no really, it is THAT good...I find myself digging into old copies of Toad the Wet Sprocket's "Pale", just to prove that they indeed do have soul...

I say send that Sirius signal via Digital, one day you will indeed hear the difference by letting your AVM-50 do the processing instead of the cheapie DAC within the SR-H550...by the way, I'm curious, what is the best station you've found on Sirius?

Peace Nate!
-Brian
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post #1002 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

alot of stuff

Wow, that's really something to chew-- thanks for your thoughts! In all honesty, I haven't yet tried the stereo outputs of the Sirius, and before climbing behind the cabinet, I wanted input from others. Your post (and the several before it) saved me the trouble!

On a side note, and for what it's worth, I reported my last post to the mods and asked that this thread and the "Official AVM-50" thread be merged. We have much to learn from one another without having to search two different threads.

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post #1003 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyR1999 View Post

^ Ditto, My name has a "f" not a "ph". I have the slovenia way of spelling.

Seems like I have to sit down longer with the D2. I must say that I'm impressed with everything the D2 can produce.

Any recommend a good remote for the D2? I need something that can do the basic features of all my equipment.

I use Harmony 688
but if you wanna to show off your system and lock yourself in the closet
than Harmony 890 remote control uses both radio frequency (RF) and infrared (IR) both work amazing (one thing with Harmony. You will need a MAC or a PC with USB to set it up and customize it to your liking.
BTW
MX 950 looks really amazing (but $1k for a remote that is allot for me at this time )

May be New to this site but old to HT :)
MY HT
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post #1004 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmac View Post

I use Harmony 688
but if you wanna to show off your system and lock yourself in the closet
than Harmony 890 remote control uses both radio frequency (RF) and infrared (IR)...
)

Check reviews on the 890 before acquiring, Many, many negative on RF not working well, though the Harmony ease of setup has many admirers.

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post #1005 of 43441 Old 07-24-2006, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Spivak View Post

A couple of questions --

1.) Do you have problems with HDMI video muting? What happens when you do?

2.) Are you using HDMI-DVI converters?

3.) What order do you turn your devices on? Source, D2 & display.

4.) If you had HDMI handshaking issues and were able to fix them, what did you do?

Max


1.) I don't have problems with HDMI muting.
2.) I am using 2HDMI-HDMI monster cables, both with HDMI-DVI converters attached to my Mac Mini and my Dish Receiver.
3.) D2, display, and then source
4.) Haven't fixed any handshaking issues
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post #1006 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zroll1 View Post

1.) I don't have problems with HDMI muting.
2.) I am using 2HDMI-HDMI monster cables, both with HDMI-DVI converters attached to my Mac Mini and my Dish Receiver.
3.) D2, display, and then source
4.) Haven't fixed any handshaking issues

Which Dish receiver?

Jerry Rappaport
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post #1007 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 07:40 AM
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Greetings,

I am in agreement regarding the AVM 50 thread and this one merging especially considering that they both use the same video processor and have similar traits in most other areas.


Regarding the remote controls, I use a Philips Pronto/Pro TSU7000 with my AVM 50. No complaints at all.

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post #1008 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DrJRapp View Post

Which Dish receiver?

Dish 921
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post #1009 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 10:53 AM
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zroll1,
I'm not sure you mentioned which version of D2 software you are using. You want to be on at least the V1.06 software before trying to debug HDMI connection problems as there are significant fixes in that software related to HDMI issues. If you have older software on your D2, the V1.06 software can be down-loaded from the Anthem web site and installed on your D2 yourself, using a Windows PC with a serial port.

Next, keep things simple by testing at the "easiest" resolution for DVI, which is 480p, that is, temporarily tell the D2 to output 720x480p to your display (and let the display scale as necessary from there), and tell all of your balky input devices to send 480p to the D2. Higher res signals take more bandwidth and are more subject to cable length problems and anything else that might degrade the signal. And standard DVI connections do not support 480i, so 480p is the lowest you can go.

Next, make sure you aren't being messed up by cable length problems. The devices that have DVI connectors are more sensitive to signal loss than the devices that have HDMI connectors. For testing purposes try to keep each individual cable run under about 10 feet. HDMI to HDMI can tolerate longer cables than either HDMI to DVI or DVI to DVI. "Better" quality cables can help if cable length turns out to be the problem between any two devices. There are also DVI "repeaters" and "switches" (which typically include repeaters) that essentially regenerate the signal and let you start over when measuring cable length.

Finally, be sure your connectors are fully inserted. The DVI connectors should be attached using their screws. The HDMI connnectors are friction fit, and if you have a vertical socket, a heavy cable, or an adapter or anything else that might stress the connector one way or the other in the socket, then the HDMI connector might have worked just a little bit loose. It doesn't take much to lose the connection or partially lose the connection. You may need to support the cable in some fashion.

These are the basics. If reducing things down to this simple situation STILL doesn't make the problem go away, then you probably need to get on the phone with Anthem tech support.

If reducing things down to this DOES fix the problem, then try to work your way back to your desired configuration one step at a time. You may find, for example, that to send high res output from the D2 to your DVI-based display, you either need to use a shorter cable, or a better cable, or a DVI "repeater" that re-generates the signal.
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post #1010 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 03:33 PM
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I started the AVM 50 thread, and I would also like to see the D2 and AVM 50 threads become one. Even though I think most owning either processor read both threads, I feel that we would all benefit from the combined sharing of knowledge, information, and issues from all D2/AVM50 owners in a single thread.

That is of course provided LEVESQUE doesn't mind, since this is his thread.

What do you think LEVESQUE? If you agree, please shoot an e-mail to a mod asking for the thread title to reflect the change, or reply here and hopefully a mod will make it so.

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post #1011 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 03:51 PM
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I think that if the D2 thread and the AVM 50 threads are combined, the AVM 50 posters should be required to pay an upgrade fee

With my system, In my room, to my ears......
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post #1012 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 08:44 PM
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A simple question:
Anyone knows if its possible to output the unprocessed signal to the MAIN zone (like you can do for zone 2)? I tried setting the SCALER INPUT to None and COMPONENT INPUT to 1 but I get no picture at all.

And a related problem:
I'm having noise problem in the picture when the signal passes through the scaler for some reason - and this is only when I use the component inputs for switching, s-video and hdmi are fine. It looks like faint white-ish rolling horizontal lines. I first thought it was a ground loop problem, but I tried everything to get rid of it to no avail. AND it only happens when the signal gets processed by the scaler so I don't know what to think now. My Anthem is plugged to an ordinary 480i SDTV by component.

Any ideas?

I'm about to take it back to the dealer unless I hear different from Anthem's tech.
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post #1013 of 43441 Old 07-25-2006, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capfacsurf View Post

I think that if the D2 thread and the AVM 50 threads are combined, the AVM 50 posters should be required to pay an upgrade fee

I'm game, that's why I upgraded my AVS membership

How about AVM 50 folks (like me) have to wait to post for the upgrade

Tim
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post #1014 of 43441 Old 07-26-2006, 05:17 AM
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Folks,
I'm beginning to think that even with the V1.06 software, the D2's various HDMI connection instability problems are strongly related to the D2's operating temperature. An external fan helps a lot, but only if it moves enough air.

Even a few degrees seems to make a big difference.

I suspect the thermal engineering for the D2 isn't quite up to the task.

I had another case of inability of my Comcast box to keep an HDCP lock which happened quite unexpectedly, and for no obvious reason, after several hours of flawless viewing. Upon experiment it turned out that the Comcast box was working fine AS LONG AS MY DISPLAY WAS OFF (with the D2 set to Repeater = OFF of course). As soon as the display was turned on, the Comcast box immediately decided it was unhappy with the HDCP and reverted it's settings back to its default 480p settings -- and in those settings it would not produce a picture for more than a couple seconds.

Attempts to return the Comcast to the proper 16:9, 1080i and 480i settings would only hold if the display was left off. As soon as the display was turned on they reverted to 4:3 letterbox and 480p -- all as determined by the D2's input resolution display and the front panel of the Comcast.

Thus I think the problem is ACTUALLY in the D2, and that it is related to what the D2 does to present a "proper" HDCP to the Comcast as a source device depending upon what the D2 sees on the display output line. Note that the D2's output to the display seemed fine in all of this, so it was apparently NOT that the D2 didn't think the display was HDCP compliant, but rather that the D2 was not passing that info properly to the Comcast via it's Repeater=OFF logic.

And the*FIX* for this was to turn off the D2 for 15 minutes to let it cool down a bit. A shorter turn off didn't to the trick, so it was not just a power-cycling issue. And all the devices were still connnected to power so it wasn't a power-reset issue. The Comcast was kept on throughout this test so it wasn't a Comcast heat issue.

No other combo of steps corrected this problem except for letting the D2 cool down -- and 15 minutes of course produces only a partial cool down. Once cooler, the D2 and everything else worked fine again for another half hour of use -- plenty of time to warm up again. So I think the D2's operating termperature is right on the edge of being too hot -- sometimes it works, sometimes it fails.

I've just increased the external fan I use with the D2 and I'll see if that eliminates the problem.
--Bob

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post #1015 of 43441 Old 07-26-2006, 09:18 AM
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Hey folks,

Just trying to find out again if anyone auditioned the D2 before getting the 50?

Trying to figure out the benefits of the 50 IF HD-DVD plays 192kHz, and the 50 only plays to 92kHz.

Other thing I don't "get" is why does it matter anyway - humans can't hear past 19kHz anyway, so who cares if the D2 and HD-DVD can play to 192kHz?

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post #1016 of 43441 Old 07-26-2006, 09:24 AM
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Folks,

Not trying to start a flame here (since I'm an AVM50 owner considering "upgrading to the D2)...

What's the big deal with the D2's ability to upsample everything to 192kHz when humans can only hear to 20kHz (if we're lucky?)

I know HD-audio goes to 192kHz also, but again, what's the big deal if no body on planet Earth can hear frequencies remotely close to that?

I'm debating on whether to keep the AVM50, since it "only" plays to 96kHz, and don't want to be left in the cold once Anthem upgrades the processing chips in the D2 to hopefully decode DD+, TrueHD, etc. My guess is since the main difference between the 50 and the D2 is the dual-processors and 192kHz upsampling, any "upgrade" to decode the new HD-audio formats wouldn't be provided to the AVM line, since it would in essence make it then equivalent to the D2?

Thoughts? You gotta wonder - if there's upgrades for decoding DD+ etc., then the AVM line would have to get 192kHz dacs.....or be left out in the cold!

Best,

Stieger

We Make Home Theater A Reality
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post #1017 of 43441 Old 07-26-2006, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by stieger View Post

Other thing I don't "get" is why does it matter anyway - humans can't hear past 19kHz anyway, so who cares if the D2 and HD-DVD can play to 192kHz?

You are confusing bandwidth (20Hz to 20KHz) with sampling frequency (192KHz). The sampling frequency needs to be at least two times the highest frequency you want to reproduce. Many folks say that two times is not nearly enough -- I happen to agree. Other folks think that 192KHz is getting way beyond what is needed.

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post #1018 of 43441 Old 07-26-2006, 10:18 AM
 
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BOB: I found these in another thread, apparantly you are not alone in your opinion that heat could be the problem.

"As far as the unit not having a cooling fan, it is a gross design error on the part of Anthem. Tech support refuses to acknowlege that heat is any issue at all but, I don't care what they or anyone else says, extreme heat in the long run will accelerate failure in these units."

"As far as the heat issue, if it isnt an issue that effects the units as Anthem states, then I dont need to concern myself with it. If they are wrong, then they will have more people than just me that they will be repairing under warrantee at their expense."

I live in NJ and work in NY and took a trip over to 6th ave electronics to check out the D2. No D2 on display but they had a D1 and I put my hand on it to feel the temp and it was hot but, not as hot as some reports make it sound.

Either it just isnt THAT hot or the D1 runs cooler because it doesnt have the scaler in it that may add heat to the chassis. Any suggestions? Is this unit ready for primetime now?
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post #1019 of 43441 Old 07-26-2006, 10:21 AM
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stieger,
The basic idea is pretty simple. Whenever you are handling the digital equivalent of an analog signal you want the digital sampling rate to be higher than the highest analog frequency you are trying to preserve by at least a factor of 2.

Failure to do this will DEFINITELY introduce artifacts in the digital data stream resulting from the fact that you are dealing with finite, discrete samples instead of a continuous, analog stream of information. Note that this is not a result of sloppy processing or bad math. It is inherent in ANY digitizing of an analog signal. You can't faithfully reproduce frequencies higher than 1/2 the sampling rate no matter how good your processing. And the resulting errors don't just screw up those high frequencies. They also damage the lower frequencies you SHOULD HAVE BEEN able to reproduce faithfully. Too high frequencies into the digitizer produce screwed up lower frequencies in the output.

If you want to see why this is so, do a search for "Nyquist Limit" on, say Wikipedia. It's a basic tenet of "information theory", and the math is not that complicated.

The bottom line is that the combination of data sampling rate -- and bit depth per sample -- together limit how precisely the digital stream of information can possibly replicate the real world, continuous analog signal. Of course whatever processing you do to the signal after digitizing it may introduce other problems. But if your sampling rate is too low compared to the incoming frequencies, or if your bit depth per sample is too low to handle the dynamic range (range of volumes) of the signal, you can't get a quality signal no matter how fancy your processing.

As to the frequency problem, well designed digitizers will filter out frequencies higher than 1/2 the sampling rate prior to digitizing the analog signal, just to be sure artifacts resulting from improper digitization of any such higher frequencies won't damage the lower frequency portions of the signal as now represented in digital form.

Once you HAVE your digitized stream, and now want to process it, you need to be aware that some of the math you are trying to do kind of has the effect of "creating" higher frequencies (kind of like harmonics) in the digital data. If that effect is pronounced, and if your sampling rate is too low, you will get the artifacts described above (called "aliasing"), just as if you had digitized too high frequencies to begin with. Digital "filters" in the math can suppress this.

OR you could convert everything to a higher sampling rate BEFORE you do the math!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK, now the human ear can hear up to 20Khz or so. Digital sampling for CDs is thus in the 44Khz range. Should be fine.

However, people felt they were still hearing digital processing artifacts with CDs, so exotic digital audio formats pushed that up to 96Khz "just to be sure". The D2 handles such 96Khz digital streams, and since they want to make sure they aren't degrading the 96Khz stream in any fashion between input and output, they do all their internal processing at 192Khz.

Those factors of 2 times the frequency mount up fast when you compound things like this!

Since the actual input signal will vary in sampling rate from different devices, the D2 converts ("upsamples") all incoming signals to that same high rate just to simplify the rest of the design.

Does it really make a difference? Hard to say. But except for the cost of the electronics, it sure doesn't hurt.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Years ago I worked in a specialized computer facility in the desert southwest. When we built the building, we told the engineers that we were going to have lots of heat producing electronics in there and so we needed adequate air conditioning.

They asked how much heat we had to dissipate and we tallied up all the racks and multiplied by a factor of 2 for safety.

The architect then multiplied that by a factor of 2 before handing the spec over to the air conditioning designer.

The designer then multiplied by a factor of 3 -- better safe than sorry -- and handed that to the air conditioning contractor.

Who then did his standard thing of installing (and billing for) about 1.5 larger than was spec'ed.

The result was that we had air conditioning ducts with a 3 foot inner diameter at the cold air outlets into that room.

The compressor, two stories tall and built on it's own concrete pad outdoors, sprang a leak one day when the outside temperature was approaching 100 degrees F.

And it started snowing around the compressor.

It's the same thing with this upsampling in the D2. It *MIGHT* be overkill, but in any event you can be sure sampling rate is not going to be the cause of any artifacts in the audio.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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post #1020 of 43441 Old 07-26-2006, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stieger View Post

Folks,

Not trying to start a flame here (since I'm an AVM50 owner considering "upgrading to the D2)...

What's the big deal with the D2's ability to upsample everything to 192kHz when humans can only hear to 20kHz (if we're lucky?)

I know HD-audio goes to 192kHz also, but again, what's the big deal if no body on planet Earth can hear frequencies remotely close to that?

I'm debating on whether to keep the AVM50, since it "only" plays to 96kHz, and don't want to be left in the cold once Anthem upgrades the processing chips in the D2 to hopefully decode DD+, TrueHD, etc. My guess is since the main difference between the 50 and the D2 is the dual-processors and 192kHz upsampling, any "upgrade" to decode the new HD-audio formats wouldn't be provided to the AVM line, since it would in essence make it then equivalent to the D2?

Thoughts? You gotta wonder - if there's upgrades for decoding DD+ etc., then the AVM line would have to get 192kHz dacs.....or be left out in the cold!

Best,

Stieger

There is nothing to feel left out in the cold about.... the DAC's in the AVM or D2 will be able to handle anything you throw at it.... As I've discussed elsewhere, as far as movie soundtracks go, over the product lifetime of the Anthem gear, you won't see films over 24/96, and you will only see a small number of 24/96 titles over the next couple of years...

As far as DD+ THD decoding, etc.... as far as HD DVD and BR, if the titles are authored in advanced mode, the players will not be able to pass the bitstream out anyways, even with HDMI 1.3... to date, all of the HD DVD titles have been authored in advanced format, and it doesn't look like it will change, so player decoding will be mandatory...
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