Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 37 - AVS Forum
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post #1081 of 43377 Old 07-30-2006, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

Is it better to have the fans aimed at the D2 or into it or away from it? Forgive the silly question...

Away from the D2, you want the fans to suck out the hot air from inside the D2. Never aim the fans at the D2 or into it - if you do then you gonna get lots of dust into the processor.

R
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post #1082 of 43377 Old 07-30-2006, 09:01 PM
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When I had my D1 I used two fans to keep it cool. I now use 4 fans for my Integra Research RDC-7.1 processor- the RDC-7.1 gets hotter than the D1!, 2 fans for my amp, 1 fan for my Dish Network receiver, 1 for my DVD recorder.

R
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post #1083 of 43377 Old 07-30-2006, 09:14 PM
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Maybe I will get a Zbreeze for it. Thanks.

Kaboom.
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post #1084 of 43377 Old 07-30-2006, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razvanel View Post

Away from the D2, you want the fans to suck out the hot air from inside the D2. Never aim the fans at the D2 or into it - if you do then you gonna get lots of dust into the processor.

R

You're going to get dust into the unit no matter what way you aim the fans. If you're moving contaminated air through the unit, some of the dust will settle down. If you are concerned about dust, get yourself a foam or metal screen, screw it onto the inlet side of the fan, and then blow it INTO the case.
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post #1085 of 43377 Old 07-31-2006, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expletive View Post

Question is, does anyone have ideas on how to wire a 12V/200ma DC(?) fan to run off the 1/8" plug of the trigger? (I was thinking of an 80mm computer case fan) I've never used the triggers for anything so i dont know if those are mono or stereo input jacks, or something else.

A ready built (or two) to run off the trigger - one in, one out - would be a great idea. Any ideas for the non-soldering iron types would be great.

Tim

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post #1086 of 43377 Old 07-31-2006, 04:49 AM
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Expletive,
Wiring a mini-jack for a D2 12-volt "trigger" is simple.

It is a "mono" mini-jack (just two electrical connections) -- available at Radio shack for example. The wiring specs are on page 78 of the D2 manual -- the "tip" is positive, and the "sleave" is ground. Of course the easiest way to do this may be simply to buy a "mono" mini-to-mini (or mini to anything) cable of the right length -- which should be quite inexpensive -- and then just lop off of the jack at the fan end to get to the bare wires at that end.

Note that the D2's 3 triggers have different max current specs. Use Trigger 3 to be sure you have enough current to drive a small box fan.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Personally I prefer to have my fan separately powered so that it runs even if the D2 is powered off for faster cooling between use sessions.
--Bob

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post #1087 of 43377 Old 07-31-2006, 08:25 AM
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You can buy a mono mini plug that you will have to solder to. Parts Express sells one:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-290
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post #1088 of 43377 Old 07-31-2006, 11:25 AM
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Call me stupid, but here goes...

Can each input on the Anthem have different volume settings for surrounds/sub?

With the color test-tones of the Anthem, are you supposed to use the funky glasses to calibrate it correctly? I ask because while watching Pearl Harbor, the clouds seem way to bright with no definition....what is that from>

Thanks all...

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post #1089 of 43377 Old 07-31-2006, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

drmabuse,
Off hand it sounds like you have your TV plugged into the D2's Zone 2 Component output instead of the Main output and the D2's scaler is set to not process Zone 2 output (video goes through unscaled by the D2).

So first make sure your TV is properly connect to a "Main" D2 output -- either Component or HDMI.

You may also have your two source devices configured improperly in the D2 so that the wrong input signal from each is being sent to the scaler.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Start with the basics. First set the D2 to output properly to your TV, then worry about the source settings.

Find out what video resolutions your TV is able to handle by checking its manual. Some TVs limit only one input jack to high-res signals or limit which high-res signals they can handle. Don't confuse the "720" in 720x480i with the 720p resolution used for HDTV. 720x480i is a 480i signal -- standard definition TV. 1280x720p and 1920x1080i are the two broadcast HDTV resolutions.

Set the D2 to output an HD resolution the TV can handle in the Setup / Video Output menu. Some D2 resolutions allow you to choose between different "frame rates". Pick a resolution and frame rate combo your TV can handle. For example, a typical HDTV-ready TV in the US will accept a 1920x1080i 60Hz signal [automatically converting that internally, as necessary, to its "native" display resolution].

While you are in that menu, turn "Component 2 Out:" to "OFF" just to make sure you are not getting confused by seeing things through a Zone 2 video output. If you ARE plugged into the Zone 2 output, accepting this change will mean your TV picture goes away. You can still make D2 menu changes via what's displayed on the D2's front panel.

[Note: Your best results will be to match the D2's output to the "native" resolution of your TV so your TV's internal scaler has no work to do. But for now let's keep things simple and stick with the "normal" HDTV resolutions.]

When you finally accept that change the Setup menu should still display "properly" on your TV. You can do this even with all your sources disconnected or turned off. If the Setup menu is way off center or cropped or the wrong color (Ghastly Green or Shocking Pink) you need to make other adjustments in the Setup / Video Output menu to properly match the D2's video output to what your display can handle.

Once the Setup menu looks right at your selected high definition resolution, back out of the Setup menu and select a D2 input that is not connected to anything. You should see an all blue screen (since the D2 is receiving no input signal for that source). Press and hold the "7" key on the D2 remote to bring up the Video Source adjustment menu. That menu should appear centered and crisp. Scroll over to the Info panel and verify that the D2 is sending the resolution you told it to send to your TV. Scroll back to the Pattern panel and select on of the D2's internal test patterns. They should fill your screen (slight off-center or slight width or height issues probably mean your TV's image centering controls need to be adjusted).

Again you can do all this without ANY source devices.

And if all of this looks right then the D2 is properly set to send the selected high resolution signal to your TV and your TV is handling that signal just fine. You should need to make no further changes here as it is the D2's job to process whatever it receives as video input and convert it to your specified video output.

--------------------------------------------------------------

For each source device you need to:

1) Cable it properly. Keep in mind that you can't send HDTV over, say, S-video cables for example.

2) Configure the input on the D2 to look at the video input sockets on the back of the D2 you have actually used for that source device. Each selectable input (i.e., the buttons on the bottom of the D2 remote) can be separately configured as to which sockets it looks at for video input. This selection is done in the D2's Setup / Source Setup/Presets menu for each source. You tell the source what video stream to send to the D2's scaler, and for component, S-video, and composite video streams you separately specify which input plug to use (HDMI input plugs are selected in the scaler setting menu item itself).

3) For each source, since your TV is a widescreen TV, go to the proper source device menu and tell the source device that it is talking to a wide screen (16:9) TV. If your source also produces 4:3 content (e.g., SDTV channels on a cable box, or older movies on a DVD), it is best to tell the source to *NOT* add black pillar box bars on either side of the image to restore it to the 4:3 shape. Let the D2 do that instead.

4) Select the "best" output resolution for each source. For sources playing SDTV content (includes standard DVD players), your best choice here will be 480i output -- e.g., let the D2 do ALL the de-interlacing and scaling. [If you are using DVI cabling, you will not have 480i as an option. Rather than selecting 480p (and thus losing the advantages of the D2's de-interlacer), consider switching to Component cabling at 480i.] For sources playing HDTV content (e.g., HDTV set top boxes and the new HD/DVD and Blue Ray DVD players playing high res disks), that will either by 720p or 1080i resolution.

5) For each source, set it to play something, select that source device as the D2's input, and then press and hold the "7" key on the D2 to bring up the D2's Video Source Adjustment menu for that input. The default settings in this menu should work fine to begin, but if you are having problems with any or your sources, here is where you will make D2 changes to deal with it.

6) For each source, you can, for example, view the Info panel under this menu to see what the D2 is seeing as input resolution and what it is sending to your display as output resolution. You already know from the steps above that the D2 knows how to send a proper signal to your TV. So any problems left to fix are input setting related and not output setting related.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The idea here is that the D2 not only lets you select between your sources, but it also converts whatever comes in as input video to your explicitly selected output settings for your TV. So it will scale ALL sources to the "best" resolution to send to your TV.
--Bob

Thanks Bob - I will give these options a go and see what happens.
I REALLY appreciate the help!
Cheers!
/\\/\\
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post #1090 of 43377 Old 07-31-2006, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Expletive,
Wiring a mini-jack for a D2 12-volt "trigger" is simple.

It is a "mono" mini-jack (just two electrical connections) -- available at Radio shack for example. The wiring specs are on page 78 of the D2 manual -- the "tip" is positive, and the "sleave" is ground. Of course the easiest way to do this may be simply to buy a "mono" mini-to-mini (or mini to anything) cable of the right length -- which should be quite inexpensive -- and then just lop off of the jack at the fan end to get to the bare wires at that end.

Note that the D2's 3 triggers have different max current specs. Use Trigger 3 to be sure you have enough current to drive a small box fan.

--Bob

Thanks Bob & jhuang,

Stripping wires & electric taping I can handle well. I actually have pretty good clearance all around so this would be extra insurance.

I probably have a mini extension for my remote IRs I can lop off & a quite fan siting around too, just getting the two together need that inspiration

Tim
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post #1091 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 07:04 AM
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stieger,
You can not calibrate speaker levels separately for each input.

You have two speaker configurations, Cinema and Music, and you can select one or the other for each input. By default the Music configuration is just a duplicate of the Cinema configuration. For each of these two you can set the speaker types, crossovers, and subwoofer levels independently. You can not set the other speaker levels independently.

These are the calibration settings which are "saved" in the Settings menu.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Separate from these, the D2 allows you to alter the Front (or just the Center), the Surrounds, the Rears, and the Subwoofer levels for EACH SURROUND MODE! See manual section 4.6.

So if you are using different surround modes for playback from different inputs then you have this extra flexibility as well.

By the way, if you are having unusual results from the speakers with some surround mode, it is wise to check that you haven't accidentally set any of these surround mode levels.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Viewing the D2's color patterns through the color gelatin filters is one way to see if the D2 is sending the proper color saturation (Color) and tint (Hue) to your display.

However your problem with bright whites is likely not a color problem, but rather a classic case of "white crush". The various stages of the video stream each have an upper limit as to the whitest signal they can send. If you set white levels too high at any point, or if there is some limitation in the circuit, then near whites will be pushed up to that whitest level and anything "whiter" than that will not look any different.

Typically this is fixed by lowering white levels (Contrast control) to give the device that is having the problem (often the display itself) more "headroom". This is best done using a calibration tool such as the Digital Video Essentials DVD or the Avia Pro DVD that will display grays across the entire range. The setting for black levels (Brightness control) and white levels interact. So you need to find the best compromise setting of these two controls as a pair.

Setting Black and White levels properly so that you can distinguish ALL the steps is not that hard, but it can be confusing at first and it takes some patience. Modern displays are VERY sensitive to getting these levels right -- i.e., the difference in what you see in real programs between "right" and "nearly right" is substantial. There are lots of threads on calibration in the Standard Definition DVD forum here for example.
--Bob

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post #1092 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

I've checked everything, and all is setup like it should be, except I haven't yet played with the Video Source Adjustment/Picture/Video ADC that you mentioned above. I'll try that later. Note that the Velodyne's output can be seen if I use the D2's S-Video output. It's only if I use the D2's HDMI output that I have trouble with. So, until I figure this out, I do have the workaround of using the D2's S-Video output. Aside: the SMS-1 (and the DD series in general) is great for smoothing out bass response.

I still can't get the Velodyne SMS-1's output to show up with the D2's HDMI out.
I checked the scaler's Video Source Adjustment/Picture/Video ADC settings, and nothing helped. The Info page in the scaler setup indicated the following:

Input Status: Video Source: S-Video
Signal Type: 0x0i/0Hz
Audio Source: NA

The Signal Type isn't correct. I double checked the D2's menu #5, and the scaler input is set to S-Video, and the "S-Video In" is set as it should be. I sent email to Anthem support to see if they can help.

Note that the SMS-1's OSD shows up correctly when using the D2's S-Video output. I have other S-Video sources (a VCR and a TiVo), and their output shows up okay when using the D2's HDMI out. This issue might be due to something unique about the SMS-1's S-Video signal. Blaine reported the same problem with his D2. Someone else in another thread reported a similar problem, but with a Yamaha receiver. However, if the SMS-1 works properly when connected to the S-Video in of TV or a projector (or when using the D2's S-Video out), it would be nice if its output can be sent to the D2's HDMI out. It would be nice to be able to use a single cable to my projector (and not have to have an S-Video cable to the projector). For now, the workaround is to use the S-Video output of my D2 (currently connected to a TV, but I can take the cable and connect it to my projector if no other solution is available). Fortunately, the D2's setup menu and other OSD show up okay when using the D2's S-Video out.
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post #1093 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 11:21 AM
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I have never used a scaler before and I am a little intimidated by this feature of the D2. How do I find out exactly what each component is outputting to set it up correctly?

Kaboom.
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post #1094 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 11:42 AM
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randman,
Well this certainly is a puzzle!

One possibility is that the D2 is getting confused and thinks this input has been selected for Zone 2/3, or Rec -- in which case the incoming S-video is not processed but just passed through to the S-video output.

I wonder if there's a chance that the remote control for the SMS-1 has a conflict with the D2 so that SMS-1 remote button pushes are altering the D2 settings.

------------------------------------------

Another possibility is that your SMS-1 has been set to put out PAL instead of NTSC and the D2 is passing through the PAL stuff but not processing it. The assumption would have to be that your display will accept either PAL or NTSC S-video for this to be possible.

But this is just grasping at straws. This is really one that Anthem is going to have to answer.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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post #1095 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 11:43 AM
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Newbie warning here. I hope you guys can help with a basic wiring question.

I've placed an order for a D2 after shopping around some time for separates and a scaler/deinterlacer. It should be here soon (week or two). I'm trying to get the appropriate cables that I would be needing from bluejeanscable and am unsure what to get. I plan on having HDMI's connecting DVD player, DVD recorder, and SA 8300HD cable box to the D2, along with coax/opt digital lines. Then the D2 would connect via HDMI to a Sony TV (also not here yet).

The problem lies with the DVD recorder. I would like to record analog video from old VHS and C-VHS archives to DVD. I also have some home movies on DVD that I'd like to manipulate onto other DVD's. I also would like to record the occasional TV show (from the cable box) to DVD. Will I have issues with trying to record stuff on the DVD recorder if the sources are only connected to the D2 via HDMI? Or do I need to use analog connections also or instead of the digital HDMI?

Thanks guys ...
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post #1096 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 12:06 PM
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wingnut,
You tell the D2 what to send to your display in its Setup / Video Output menu. So you control that. You need to first find out what resolutions and frame rates your display will accept. Most HDTV-ready displays in the US will accept 1280x720p 60 Hz and 1920x1080i 60Hz as those are the standard broadcast HDTV resolutions, but a different resolution closer to the "native" resolution of your display may yield better results.

The D2's scaler will take whatever video it receives from the source devices and convert it to that output resolution and frame rate.

As far as what each source device can send to the D2, that depends on the specific device.

Sources that put out standard definition TV (including standard DVD players), will offer 720x480i -- a regular SDTV signal -- and may also offer 720x480p -- a de-interlaced (progressive) SDTV signal. What comes off a DVD disc or via your TV antenna, or cable box, or satellite service for SDTV is 480i. The D2's de-interlacer is exceptionally good, so any such source device *SHOULD* be set to put out 480i (instead of 480p) so that the de-interlacing happens inside the D2.

Sources that put out high resolution TV (including "upscaling" standard DVD players, HDTV receivers, HDTV capable cable boxes, HDTV capable satellite boxes and the new high resolution DVD players playing HD/DVD or Blue Ray discs) will typically offer 1280x720p and 1920x1080i output as well. These are the two types of HDTV broadcast signal. One is not inherently better than the other (because they both stream about the same number of bits per second of picture information), but converting between those two formats is also a "scaling" operation and many such source devices have really REALLY crappy scalers inside them.

So ideally you want to set those boxes to pass along whatever is coming into them (from the disc, the antenna, the satellite, etc.) without change -- i.e., without scalingg it. Thus, if you are watching sports on an HDTV Fox TV channel at 720p, you want to send that to the D2, whereas if you are watching sports on and HDTV ESPN channel at 1080i you want to pass THAT to the D2.

For example, the new HD/DVD discs have 1080p data on them. The new Toshiba HD/DVD player offers the choice of sending 1080i (not 1080p) or 720p video as output when playing such a disc. However the Toshiba's internal scaler is brain dead and so you HAVE TO set it to put out 1080i or you will see a lousy image even if you plug it into a display with a "native" 720p resolution.

Another example is an "upscaling" standard definition DVD player which offers the option to send 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i output when playing standard DVDs which are inherently 480i. For such a player, ignore its "upscaling" feature and set it to output 480i -- as the scaler in the D2 is most likely better than the scaler in the "upscaling" DVD player.

Some broadcast TV source devices offer the ability to automatically pass through whatever the incoming resolution is directly to the output without scaling. Some source devices offer a limited ability to do that (i.e., only 480i or 1080i but not also 720p), and some force you to pick the ONE resolution you want for output. If you are in that last situation with your cable or satellite box, then you should probably pick 1080i output as there is more HDTV at 1080i than at 720p. The source box will then be scaling 480i SDTV or 720p HDTV to 1080i -- which is not ideal since the D2 likely *COULD* do it better -- but at least your 1080i watching will be good.

When you get more into this, you will likely also encounter discussion of TV "frame rates" vs. movie "frame rates". That's a topic for another discussion and can be safely ignored for now. The basics are as stated above and can be summarized as follows:

Tell each source device to do the LEAST POSSIBLE processing on whatever video signal it is passing along to the D2. Leave it to the D2 to do any de-interlacing and scaling and color space conversion and noise reduction and etc., etc.
--Bob

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post #1097 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 12:13 PM
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dipan,
I haven't tried to record stuff myself via the D2 but I believe its "RECORD path" is unprocessed. That is it just switches audio and video without doing anything to it.

And if I'm correct, that means you will need Component, S-video, and Composite connections to your recorder to record Component, S-video, and Composite sources respectively. I don't believe you will be able to record HDMI sources. Indeed that's what the copy protection stuff in HDMI is supposed to prevent.

Also, I believe there are similar issues trying to get a digital audio input stream to go to the recorder.
--Bob

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post #1098 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 12:19 PM
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Wow. Thanks for the in depth answer, Bob. That makes it go in between the ears a little.

Kaboom.
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post #1099 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 12:52 PM
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Thanks Bob ...

I guess I'll just have to see how it goes. I suppose I could just bypass the D2 and input the individual components directly to the DVD recorder, but I was hoping to centralize this task through the D2 so I have a simpler setup (less wires).
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post #1100 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

I still can't get the Velodyne SMS-1's output to show up with the D2's HDMI out.
I checked the scaler's Video Source Adjustment/Picture/Video ADC settings, and nothing helped. The Info page in the scaler setup indicated the following:

Input Status: Video Source: S-Video
Signal Type: 0x0i/0Hz
Audio Source: NA

The Signal Type isn't correct. I double checked the D2's menu #5, and the scaler input is set to S-Video, and the "S-Video In" is set as it should be. I sent email to Anthem support to see if they can help.

Note that the SMS-1's OSD shows up correctly when using the D2's S-Video output. I have other S-Video sources (a VCR and a TiVo), and their output shows up okay when using the D2's HDMI out. This issue might be due to something unique about the SMS-1's S-Video signal. Blaine reported the same problem with his D2. Someone else in another thread reported a similar problem, but with a Yamaha receiver. However, if the SMS-1 works properly when connected to the S-Video in of TV or a projector (or when using the D2's S-Video out), it would be nice if its output can be sent to the D2's HDMI out. It would be nice to be able to use a single cable to my projector (and not have to have an S-Video cable to the projector). For now, the workaround is to use the S-Video output of my D2 (currently connected to a TV, but I can take the cable and connect it to my projector if no other solution is available). Fortunately, the D2's setup menu and other OSD show up okay when using the D2's S-Video out.

Randman
I have spoke to Nick about this problem and he is looking into it
I have the same problem with my DD12
For now I'm using direct connection to my PJ from DD12
Even when we tested DD at the dealer and we went directly to PJ, his PJ reset itself to receiver after you exit manu from DD
So this confirm it that there is a problem with signal from DD subs
I'm currently looking at S-video to Component converter to use with My DD.
Does anyone know if something like this exists(i know boxes do that, but do anyone know if cable like this exists)?
THX

May be New to this site but old to HT :)
MY HT
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post #1101 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmac View Post

Randman
I have spoke to Nick about this problem and he is looking into it
I have the same problem with my DD12
For now I'm using direct connection to my PJ from DD12
Even when we tested DD at the dealer and we went directly to PJ, his PJ reset itself to receiver after you exit manu from DD
So this confirm it that there is a problem with signal from DD subs
I'm currently looking at S-video to Component converter to use with My DD.
Does anyone know if something like this exists(i know boxes do that, but do anyone know if cable like this exists)?
THX

Or an upconverting box on a budget that is available in Canada
Thank you

May be New to this site but old to HT :)
MY HT
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post #1102 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmac View Post

Does anyone know if something like this exists(i know boxes do that, but do anyone know if cable like this exists)?
THX

Infocus sells an S-video to component video adapter cable. Search the Infocus website for this. I could have sworn I've seen something like this that came with one of my computers' graphics card.
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post #1103 of 43377 Old 08-01-2006, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

randman,
Well this certainly is a puzzle!

One possibility is that the D2 is getting confused and thinks this input has been selected for Zone 2/3, or Rec -- in which case the incoming S-video is not processed but just passed through to the S-video output.

I wonder if there's a chance that the remote control for the SMS-1 has a conflict with the D2 so that SMS-1 remote button pushes are altering the D2 settings.

------------------------------------------

Another possibility is that your SMS-1 has been set to put out PAL instead of NTSC and the D2 is passing through the PAL stuff but not processing it. The assumption would have to be that your display will accept either PAL or NTSC S-video for this to be possible.

But this is just grasping at straws. This is really one that Anthem is going to have to answer.
--Bob

Bob, Elmac - thanks for your input.

No, it's not an issue with remote control conflicts. My SMS-1 is triggered on via the D2, and I started having this problem even before I ever used the SMS-1 remote after hooking it up to the D2. It's not the Zone2/3 or Rec issue either.

I don't think it's a PAL/NTSC issue either. The SMS-1 has a way of switching betweeen PAL and NTSC. NTSC is the default. If it's not currently NTSC, resetting the SMS-1 to its defaults will make it NTSC. A long time ago, I did reset it to its defaults (but don't really want to do it now, since I will lose all my settings... unlike the D2, the SMS-1 has no way of saving the settings to a PC). My projector
supports both PAL and NTSC, but I doubt that my old circa 1991 TV does, and the SMS-1 OSD shows up okay in my TV.

I suspect that there's something inherently wrong with the SMS-1 OSD signal that's confusing the D2. Nick replied that this is "not uncommon" with OSD generators where the output is not exactly interlaced and can't be recognized by the video processor.

For now, I'll use a long S-Video cable from the D2 to my projector, since the D2's S-Video out correctly outputs the SMS-1's OSD. Fortunately, the D2's OSD can also be displayed via S-Video, so I can see both the SMS-1's and the D2's OSDs.
The only hassle is having to switch inputs in my projector, but I can program that automatically with my Pronto. No big deal about not having "upscaled" OSD, but would be nice to have a resolution on this nevertheless.

I'll also post this issue in the "Official Velodyne Support Thread", and see if others have a suggestion (maybe Curt from Velodyne can help).
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post #1104 of 43377 Old 08-03-2006, 09:58 AM
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I'm getting a fairly loud hum from my speakers when Oppo 970 is turned on. Oppo 970 is connected to D2 via HDMI or coax dig audio. When Oppo is turned on, I get the hum that's not really audible when music is playing, but definitely audible when music stops. Hum increases and decreases with D2 volume changes. If I turn Oppo off, hum is 80-90% gone. If I unplug Oppo, hum is completely gone.

I initially suspected a ground loop, so I tried plugging D2, amp and Oppo into the same outlet, and the hum is still there. There's nothing else on the circuit - it's a brand new 20amp line.

Has anyone else seen this?

What can be causing this? When Oppo isn't playing, it's not sending a digital audio bitstream, so it can't be coming from the audio source, right? I have no analog connections between the two.

Any ideas on how to get rid of it?
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post #1105 of 43377 Old 08-03-2006, 10:05 AM
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A local shop let me borrow their D1 just to see how it sounds with my gear. Every now and then I experience drop outs with my Pioneer 79avi hooked up to the D1 via optical. Various discs with no seeming rhyme or reason will just be silent in the middle of a song for a second. I have never had this experience.Is this a known issue at all with either the D1 or D2?

Kaboom.
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post #1106 of 43377 Old 08-03-2006, 11:14 AM
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Max, Try using a Toslink cable to connect your audio, will probably eliminate the hum
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post #1107 of 43377 Old 08-03-2006, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

A local shop let me borrow their D1 just to see how it sounds with my gear. Every now and then I experience drop outs with my Pioneer 79avi hooked up to the D1 via optical. Various discs with no seeming rhyme or reason will just be silent in the middle of a song for a second. I have never had this experience.Is this a known issue at all with either the D1 or D2?

HAve you tried a different Toslink cable, or a digital coax cable?

Jerry Rappaport
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post #1108 of 43377 Old 08-03-2006, 04:58 PM
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(Bob) et al.,

Thanks for the reply. I understand I cannot set different volume levels per input, but CAN for different surround modes - Are those surround format volume changes kept in memory even after turning off the Anthem, OR after power down does the unit automatically reset each surround mode volume level to -0- across the board (for each speaker)?

thx,

stieger

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post #1109 of 43377 Old 08-03-2006, 06:38 PM
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The surround mode settings are retained even after powering off.
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post #1110 of 43377 Old 08-03-2006, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

Bob, Elmac - thanks for your input.

No, it's not an issue with remote control conflicts. My SMS-1 is triggered on via the D2, and I started having this problem even before I ever used the SMS-1 remote after hooking it up to the D2. It's not the Zone2/3 or Rec issue either.

I don't think it's a PAL/NTSC issue either. The SMS-1 has a way of switching betweeen PAL and NTSC. NTSC is the default. If it's not currently NTSC, resetting the SMS-1 to its defaults will make it NTSC. A long time ago, I did reset it to its defaults (but don't really want to do it now, since I will lose all my settings... unlike the D2, the SMS-1 has no way of saving the settings to a PC). My projector
supports both PAL and NTSC, but I doubt that my old circa 1991 TV does, and the SMS-1 OSD shows up okay in my TV.

I suspect that there's something inherently wrong with the SMS-1 OSD signal that's confusing the D2. Nick replied that this is "not uncommon" with OSD generators where the output is not exactly interlaced and can't be recognized by the video processor.

For now, I'll use a long S-Video cable from the D2 to my projector, since the D2's S-Video out correctly outputs the SMS-1's OSD. Fortunately, the D2's OSD can also be displayed via S-Video, so I can see both the SMS-1's and the D2's OSDs.
The only hassle is having to switch inputs in my projector, but I can program that automatically with my Pronto. No big deal about not having "upscaled" OSD, but would be nice to have a resolution on this nevertheless.

I'll also post this issue in the "Official Velodyne Support Thread", and see if others have a suggestion (maybe Curt from Velodyne can help).

Have you tried the composite output on the SMS1 as well? I have a DD18 so as soon as i get a chance i'll give it a try.
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