Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 382 - AVS Forum
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Good thing i only spent 199 on that xbox hd dvd add-on drive and bought a very small handful of discs...long live BluRay let's hope :-)

There are many folks who spent considerably more on this technology...I guess it was a risk we all took knowingly, but i feel for everyone out there who is on their 2nd or 3rd HD-DVD player, and countless discs, etc. Makes me appreciate Netflix more I guess, that's for sure...this truly will go down as a bad chapter in the CE racket.

Brian

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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I bought the GEN 1 Toshiba and the GEN 1 Pioneer - BOTH
at day one. I am happy with both and I knew by the time
the format war settled out - I would know which next gen
something to buy

It is the price you pay for early adoption!

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Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Yep, totally agree, just sympathizing with those who may not have prepared for this eventuality. It will be interesting to see if Microsoft chooses to join the dark side and eventually release a BluRay add-on drive for the Xbox...thankfully, I won't be buying it, I'm enjoying the Pio 94HD BR too much!

Cheers all!
Brian

I hope I can convey this correctly.
As an HD DVD only early adopter:
I appreciate the feelings of sympathy but they're really not necessary.
As the Dr. said, the price of early adoption...
I knew I was taking a risk. My only feelings of sourgrapes relate to the fact that I deluded myself into thinking that in buying HD DVD products I was helping HD DVD to succeed in the market place.
In reality my "vote" didn't mean a hill of beans.
Bu$ine$$ deal$ and exclusive contracts actually decided the outcome.
I foolishly ignored the fact that multi-national corporations don't care about consumers anymore than fleas care about dogs.

 

It ain't ignorance causes so much trouble; it's folks knowing so much that ain't so

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Old 02-15-2008, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jpillar View Post

Why does the Anthem Logic Cinema sound lowder than the Dolby 5.1 PLIIx Movie on my D2. On some DVDs the Movie is in 5.1 but the previews are in AL-Cinema or when your in the root menu the sound switches to AL-Cinema and the volume is much lowder.

Double check that you haven't accidentally set any of the "temporary" audio volume adjustments using your remote. These are remembered on a per-source and per-input-audio-type basis so it is easy to think you have cleared one you were playing with when you actually still have it in there for some other source or audio type.

The easiest way to clear all of these in one go is as follows:

* Go to Setup / Save & Restore Settings

* Save User Settings

* Restore Factory Defaults. You may lose video at this point but you can continue using the Front Panel display.

* Reload User Settings. Video should return now if you lost it.

The "temporary" settings are not saved so this clears all of them.

Next, re-check your speaker calibration levels in the Setup menu. It is best to use a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter to do this as it is hard to do this well by ear alone. Everyone uses these meters. They are inexpensive. In the Setup menu for speaker level, pick a target SPL reading (75dB is commonly used for home theater setup), test and adjust and make sure all of your speakers are producing this same level (including your subwoofer).

The PLIIx and AL-Cinema modes do different degrees of sound steering between speakers. So if your speakers are not well matched in volume level the result may be an increase or decrease in overall volume.

That said, there are some differences, typically, between audio tracks. This is just the way the tracks were mastered. It's much like discovering that commercials on a given TV channel may be much louder than the normal program content. Personally I haven't found volume differences between tracks on movie discs to be anywhere near as annoying as what often happens while watching or changing TV channels.
--Bob

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Old 02-15-2008, 09:22 AM
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After reading and rereading the manual about 100 times it seems that this is the most logical thing for me to do with a 7.1 system. Does anyone disagree? Does anyone think that the Anthem surrounds are better?
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

I foolishly ignored the fact that multi-national corporations don't care about consumers anymore than fleas care about dogs.

So true - it is evil to have created yet another format war.

No Consumer wants a format war.
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:06 AM
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After reading and rereading the manual about 100 times it seems that this is the most logical thing for me to do with a 7.1 system. Does anyone disagree? Does anyone think that the Anthem surrounds are better?

Using the "walk around the room" of VE (the old one) in 5.1 where the narator's voice is circling in a clock wise direction in the room, PrologicIIx gave me the best transition in 7.1
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Old 02-15-2008, 11:01 AM
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THX Ultra 2 seems fine in my 7.1 setup. Tried Dolby and really couldn't tell much difference.

John

ps. couldn't have said it better Milt

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Old 02-15-2008, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post


Next, re-check your speaker calibration levels in the Setup menu. It is best to use a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter to do this as it is hard to do this well by ear alone. Everyone uses these meters. They are inexpensive. In the Setup menu for speaker level, pick a target SPL reading (75dB is commonly used for home theater setup), test and adjust and make sure all of your speakers are producing this same level (including your subwoofer).


--Bob

I know that you have the DD15, and you probably use the DD15 eq to calibrate your sub to your mains. Do you trust the Radio Shack SPL Meter, as far as the LFE is concerned, over the DD15s mic? The reason that I ask is because I calibrated my DD18 to my mains around 76db according to the frequency graph for the EQ for the DD18. I have a pretty smooth line across the frequencies except for at 50hz. I have a 4 db drop at 50hz which I live with. Anyway, when I use the Radio Shack SPL meter to measure the sound coming from the sub, it shows 82 db. However, I don't adjust it because the Velodyne frequency that I used to calibrate was 76db.
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Old 02-15-2008, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

I know that you have the DD15, and you probably use the DD15 eq to calibrate your sub to your mains. Do you trust the Radio Shack SPL Meter, as far as the LFE is concerned, over the DD15s mic? The reason that I ask is because I calibrated my DD18 to my mains around 76db according to the frequency graph for the EQ for the DD18. I have a pretty smooth line across the frequencies except for at 50hz. I have a 4 db drop at 50hz which I live with. Anyway, when I use the Radio Shack SPL meter to measure the sound coming from the sub, it shows 82 db. However, I don't adjust it because the Velodyne frequency that I used to calibrate was 76db.

Measuring audio is tricky. The exact positioning and pointing direction of the mic can give you different results. As can whether you are standing close to the mic when it is measuring. And for bass, what you measure at different listening positions will often vary due to room nodes. Also, bass is much more susceptible to room variations such as whether even a closet door is open.

With my DD15 I go back and forth between the Anthem's test tones and the DD15 test tones. Keep in mind that the DD15 is sending a "stereo" signal that is being steered by the Anthem -- part going back to the sub and part to the LF and RF speakers. In addition, the volume level you hear from the Velodyne's test tones varies according to the main volume setting you have on the Anthem, whereas the Anthem test tones don't go through that (they have their own volume control in the menu for setting the basic test level). So you would not expect an exact match between the two ways of testing.

Set the Anthem main volume at -10dB and calibrate the speakers to 75dB using the Anthem's test tones and you will get the closest match when playing the Velodyne's test tones measured through the Velodyne mic -- also with the Anthem main volume at -10dB and the Anthem set to "Stereo" audio mode. That's just how the Anthem test tones are set up (i.e., so that a 75dB Anthem test tone calibration yields 85dB in normal playback of "reference" audio when the Anthem main volume is set at 0dB, or 75dB when the Anthem main volume is set to -10dB).

So basically I get the DD15 into balance with the other speakers using the Anthem tones and the SPL meter. Then I do the DD15 EQ adjustments. Then I measure SPL again. The important thing with the SPL measurements is that you keep the meter in the same place while measuring all speakers. It is the relative difference between the speakers that matters (when measured at any given location) much more than the absolute level you are measuring. I.e., the 75dB target is just a convenient target that works well for most home theaters. You could have targeted 70dB, say, in which case an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB would yield 80dB for "reference" audio content playback. It's just a matter of taste.

Just remember that an Anthem main volume setting of -10dB during normal playback corresponds to the SPL level you set for the speakers using the Anthem's internally generated test tones, given that "reference level" audio happens to be coming from the content for any given speaker at that moment. A main volume setting above or below that would yield higher or lower SPL from each speaker when the content audio level is "reference" level.

Theaters are calibrated to 85dB. So if you calibrate to 75dB and play movies at an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB you will be hearing the same sort of volume used in theaters. Most people find this too loud for home theater (where you don't have to deal with audience noise for example). That's why 75dB is the normal target for home theater.

I also measure at a few different listening positions (both with the SPL and with the Velodyne's mic, and work for the best compromise result -- not completely flat bass response at any one location, but quite close at all of them. If my room were acoustically perfect, I wouldn't have to do that. But it isn't, and the compromise results work much MUCH better for me than "perfection" measured only at the center listening position.

The bottom line is that when I finished I had a nice, reasonably flat, curve from the Velodyne (showing in the over 70-ish dB range and good balance for all the speakers using the SPL meter (also measuring in the over 70-ish dB range). And although the precise curve and SPL measurements varied at different listening positions it was still reasonably flat and properly balanced at all positions and the variation was not enough to worry about.

I would expect the ARC to be able to do this even better.

There are some more details on how I did my DD-15 stuff in a write up post you'll find in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Measuring audio is tricky. The exact positioning and pointing direction of the mic can give you different results. As can whether you are standing close to the mic when it is measuring. And for bass, what you measure at different listening positions will often vary due to room nodes. Also, bass is much more susceptible to room variations such as whether even a closet door is open.

With my DD15 I go back and forth between the Anthem's test tones and the DD15 test tones. Keep in mind that the DD15 is sending a "stereo" signal that is being steered by the Anthem -- part going back to the sub and part to the LF and RF speakers. In addition, the volume level you hear from the Velodyne's test tones varies according to the main volume setting you have on the Anthem, whereas the Anthem test tones don't go through that (they have their own volume control in the menu for setting the basic test level). So you would not expect an exact match between the two ways of testing.

Set the Anthem main volume at -10dB and calibrate the speakers to 75dB using the Anthem's test tones and you will get the closest match when playing the Velodyne's test tones measured through the Velodyne mic -- also with the Anthem main volume at -10dB and the Anthem set to "Stereo" audio mode. That's just how the Anthem test tones are set up (i.e., so that a 75dB Anthem test tone calibration yields 85dB in normal playback of "reference" audio when the Anthem main volume is set at 0dB, or 75dB when the Anthem main volume is set to -10dB).

So basically I get the DD15 into balance with the other speakers using the Anthem tones and the SPL meter. Then I do the DD15 EQ adjustments. Then I measure SPL again. The important thing with the SPL measurements is that you keep the meter in the same place while measuring all speakers. It is the relative difference between the speakers that matters (when measured at any given location) much more than the absolute level you are measuring. I.e., the 75dB target is just a convenient target that works well for most home theaters. You could have targeted 70dB, say, in which case an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB would yield 80dB for "reference" audio content playback. It's just a matter of taste.

Just remember that an Anthem main volume setting of -10dB during normal playback corresponds to the SPL level you set for the speakers using the Anthem's internally generated test tones, given that "reference level" audio happens to be coming from the content for any given speaker at that moment. A main volume setting above or below that would yield higher or lower SPL from each speaker when the content audio level is "reference" level.

Theaters are calibrated to 85dB. So if you calibrate to 75dB and play movies at an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB you will be hearing the same sort of volume used in theaters. Most people find this too loud for home theater (where you don't have to deal with audience noise for example). That's why 75dB is the normal target for home theater.

I also measure at a few different listening positions (both with the SPL and with the Velodyne's mic, and work for the best compromise result -- not completely flat bass response at any one location, but quite close at all of them. If my room were acoustically perfect, I wouldn't have to do that. But it isn't, and the compromise results work much MUCH better for me than "perfection" measured only at the center listening position.

The bottom line is that when I finished I had a nice, reasonably flat, curve from the Velodyne (showing in the over 70-ish dB range and good balance for all the speakers using the SPL meter (also measuring in the over 70-ish dB range). And although the precise curve and SPL measurements varied at different listening positions it was still reasonably flat and properly balanced at all positions and the variation was not enough to worry about.

I would expect the ARC to be able to do this even better.

There are some more details on how I did my DD-15 stuff in a write up post you'll find in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
--Bob

Thanks Bob. Your response was very detail and very informative. I would like to clarify one thing. You set the Noise Ref Level, in the calibration menu, to -10db and calibrate your speakers and sub to 75db. Is that correct?
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

Thanks Bob. Your response was very detail and very informative. I would like to clarify one thing. You set the Noise Ref Level, in the calibration menu, to -10db and calibrate your speakers and sub to 75db. Is that correct?

Not quite.

You set the Noise Ref Level in the calibration menu so that the LF speaker measures 75dB. [This will be independent of where you happen to have left the main volume setting before entering Setup, but I usually set main volume to -10dB while doing this just for convenience after leaving the Setup menu.]

The proper calibration adjustment itself for the LF speaker will then be 0dB of course since the Ref Level was set using that speaker as the basis for measurement.

Now you adjust the calibration for all the REST of your speakers to 75dB using that SAME Noise Ref Level you just set using the LF speaker. Each of your other speakers will likely need an adjustment up or down from 0dB to produce a measured 75dB SPL.

When you are done, all the speakers are now calibrated to produce the same level -- the 75dB SPL level measured with your Radio Shack meter. Exit Setup and go listen to stuff.

So what does that mean in real listening terms? What it means is that when you set the main volume to -10dB and play audio that happens to include "reference level" audio passages (as adjusted by the editors making that audio track) then you will get 75dB SPL out of each speaker being fed that "reference level" content. [NOTE: Surrounds and Rears are almost never fed audio content at that high a volume level.]

That is, the absolute audio volume levels that result from what you are setting in the calibration menu correspond to what the Anthem will produce playing real stuff when its main volume is set to -10dB.

Now what's critical here is actually the RELATIVE volume levels -- i.e., that all the speakers are set to measure the same SPL reading when you play the test tone. The ABSOLUTE volume levels -- what the speakers will produce when playing a "reference" audio passage with the main volume set to -10dB is purely up to your taste. The 75dB target is just good guidance. Just as it is purely up to your taste how you set the main volume when listening.

It's just useful to know that whatever you used as an SPL target during calibration (75dB or 70dB or 80dB or whatever) corresponds to what you are getting when you play stuff later at a main volume setting of -10dB. [At least for the speakers that are presenting the bulk of that audio.]

Please also note that PEAK volume in audio tracks can easily be 15dB higher than "reference level" volume. So over short periods of explosions and such you will be getting quite a bit more than 75dB out of your system even though you used 75dB as your calibration target.
--Bob

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Old 02-15-2008, 03:52 PM
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When I calibrate my speakers, I have to set the Noise Ref to +3db in order for my LF to read 75db on my RS SPL Meter. It actually shows +3db[THX] on the menu. Anyway, I then calibrate my remaining speakers based on Noise Ref +3db to 75db. Therefore, I would not be getting 75db unless I set the main volume on the D2 to +3db. However, when I calibrate my sub, I set the main volume to -10db and the Velodyne's frequency graph reads 76db. However, if I try setting the Noise Ref to -10db in the calibration set up menu, I will never get my speakers to read 75db.
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Old 02-15-2008, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

Bob

When I calibrate my speakers, I have to set the Noise Ref to +3db in order for my LF to read 75db on my RS SPL Meter. It actually shows +3db[THX] on the menu. Anyway, I then calibrate my remaining speakers based on Noise Ref +3db to 75db. Therefore, I would not be getting 75db unless I set the main volume on the D2 to +3db. However, when I calibrate my sub, I set the main volume to -10db and the Velodyne's frequency graph reads 76db. However, if I try setting the Noise Ref to -10db in the calibration set up menu, I will never get my speakers to read 75db.

No. The Noise Ref Level during the calibration test and the Main Volume during normal play are independent except that whatever you set up using the Noise Ref Level corresponds to the volume produced during normal playback of reference level portions of audio tracks whenever the Anthem Main Volume is set to -10db.

Since the Velodyne stuff is playing as a normal audio input, it makes perfect sense that what you calibrated originally using the Anthem's Noise Ref Level at +3dB would also measure the same way when playing the Velodyne's own test audio through the Anthem with the Anthem Main Volume set to -10dB.

So the way it should work is like this:

* Go to Setup / Speaker Level Calibration

* Adjust Noise Ref Level so that the LF measures 75dB SPL. In your case you found that to be +3dB -- which also happens to be the level Anthem used to pass the THX certification so that's why it is marked THX. There's nothing else magical about that THX labeling.

* Adjust calibration levels FOR ALL SPEAKERS without changing that Noise Ref Level you just set. The adjustment for the LF speaker should come out as 0dB since it was used to set the Ref Level in the first place. The adjustment for any of the other speakers may be up or down from 0dB. The adjustment for the subwoofer will depend upon the volume setting you have set inside the subwoofer. Set a volume inside the subwoofer such that the necessary calibration level adjustment in the Anthem is reasonably close to 0dB (again without altering the Noise Ref Level you have already set in the Anthem).

* Now exit the Setup menu.

* Set the Anthem main volume to -10dB. Note this is NOT the Noise Ref Level -- you are done with that Setup menu.

* Play the Velodyne tests. Based on the calibration you just did, the SPL you measure with the Velodyne mic (and for that matter with your SPL meter) should be fairly close to 75dB. But if it is off a little that doesn't matter.

* If for whatever reason you decide to change the volume control inside the Velodyne then you will ALSO need to change the subwoofer calibration level inside the Anthem (in the opposite direction) to get the Velodyne back in balance with the other speakers (or alternatively, adjust ALL the other speakers to match up with the subwoofer again -- i.e., change your target SPL from 75dB to whatever the Velodyne is now producing).
--Bob

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Old 02-15-2008, 04:30 PM
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Bob

Got it. Thanks again for your advice, time, and patience. I truly appreciate it.
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Old 02-15-2008, 05:29 PM
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Walmart dropped support for HD-DVD today as well. They said HD-DVD will be entirely out of their retail channel by June.

So now we can concentrate on "real" Blu-Ray players (whenever they become available) and "real" 120hz refresh displays that handle 1080p/24 properly (whenever THEY become available).

Meanwhile the next round of HDMI stuff (with accompanying hype) should also be coming on the radar soon.
--Bob

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Old 02-15-2008, 05:38 PM
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It's also rumored that Toshiba has dropped support for HD DVD or is about to drop support for HD DVD. However, someone interviewed an exec at Toshiba and denied that they are dropping support for HD DVD. I'm sure time will tell.
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Old 02-15-2008, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

I hope I can convey this correctly.
As an HD DVD only early adopter:
I appreciate the feelings of sympathy but they're really not necessary.
As the Dr. said, the price of early adoption...
I knew I was taking a risk. My only feelings of sourgrapes relate to the fact that I deluded myself into thinking that in buying HD DVD products I was helping HD DVD to succeed in the market place.
In reality my "vote" didn't mean a hill of beans.
Bu$ine$$ deal$ and exclusive contracts actually decided the outcome.
I foolishly ignored the fact that multi-national corporations don't care about consumers anymore than fleas care about dogs.

Milt, I think if you are honest about this, you would realize that you didn't ignore the fact that corporations don't care about consumers. The fact is that corporations only care about profits. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. Theoretically, companies that show complete disregard for the consumer will not make profits in the long run. After all, they have to sell a product that consumers actually want!

This is how the free market works.

I knew what I was getting into when I bought both formats early on (like DrHankz). I spent $470 on my Toshiba A1, and over $1300 on my Pioneer Elite BD player! I have about 35 HD DVD movies, and I imagine I will eventually repurchase most of them when they are released on Blu-ray.

Such is life as an early adopter in a format war.
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin View Post

Milt, I think if you are honest about this, you would realize that you didn't ignore the fact that corporations don't care about consumers. The fact is that corporations only care about profits. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. Theoretically, companies that show complete disregard for the consumer will not make profits in the long run. After all, they have to sell a product that consumers actually want!

This is how the free market works.

I knew what I was getting into when I bought both formats early on (like DrHankz). I spent $470 on my Toshiba A1, and over $1300 on my Pioneer Elite BD player! I have about 35 HD DVD movies, and I imagine I will eventually repurchase most of them when they are released on Blu-ray.

Such is life as an early adopter in a format war.

Here here!!! Hey, maybe my box set of Mission Impossible might end up being a collector's item! I think I will keep my HD-DVD drive and movies for my great grandchildren, or at least until the next major video format war, at which time I can pull out my "relics" and say "ya see kids, we've been through this whole thing before...in fact, if you'll give me a minute, I'll reconnect the lost art called HD-DVD that at the time, was the bee's knees..." They will scoff at the idea of *only* 1920x1080 pixel rates, and will laugh at their great grandfather's reminiscing of the first time he laid eyes on Jessica Alba in real HD...ahh yes, the good ole days...

-Brian
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Old 02-16-2008, 06:53 AM
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Serious question: are there any NYC area D2 owners who recently bought a D2 and therefore have an ARC-1? If so, I'd give you my right arm to let me borrow it for a day! Or, if you have no need for my right arm, I'd happily make a donation to your charity of choice. I live on Long Island and would be happy to drive anywhere within reason. I promise to treat the ARC-1 with the utmost care!

I promise that I am not a psycho (excluding of course my psychotic computer and electronics addiction).

Feel free to either respond on this thread, PM me or email me at dschamis@aya.yale.edu.

David
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Old 02-16-2008, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dschamis View Post

Serious question: are there any NYC area D2 owners who recently bought a D2 and therefore have an ARC-1? If so, I'd give you my right arm to let me borrow it for a day! Or, if you have no need for my right arm, I'd happily make a donation to your charity of choice. I live on Long Island and would be happy to drive anywhere within reason. I promise to treat the ARC-1 with the utmost care!

I promise that I am not a psycho (excluding of course my psychotic computer and electronics addiction).

Feel free to either respond on this thread, PM me or email me at dschamis@aya.yale.edu.

David

I believe Anthem has prohibited that from happening.
Eash ARC-1 is tied to the Serial Number of the D2.
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I believe Anthem has prohibited that from happening.
Eash ARC-1 is tied to the Serial Number of the D2.

I didn't realize that. So what does that mean? When I buy an ARC-1 somehow I have to pair it with my existing D2?
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by dschamis View Post

I didn't realize that. So what does that mean? When I buy an ARC-1 somehow I have to pair it with my existing D2?

I don't know the exact proceedure - but supposedly
you need to supply your serial number when you
order your upgrade.

And Then SOMEHOW they are tied together.
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Old 02-16-2008, 08:24 AM
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I am willing to bet that the ARC-1 software is checking the serial number that has been assigned to the D2 and the serial number that has been assigned to the ARC-1 mic. If they don't match, then it's not going to work. It's kind of like a check and balance thing. That's how I would do it if I was programming the software.
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

I am willing to bet that the ARC-1 software is checking the serial number that has been assigned to the D2 and the serial number that has been assigned to the ARC-1 mic. If they don't match, then it's not going to work. It's kind of like a check and balance thing. That's how I would do it if I was programming the software.

You got it - the mic comes with a disc that contains software and cal files that are specific to the actual mic in the box and the actual serial number of the D2.
/\\/\\
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:06 AM
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You got it - the mic comes with a disc that contains software and cal files that are specific to the actual mic in the box and the actual serial number of the D2.
/\\/\\

Yes SIR Mr. Beta Tester
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:07 AM
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Old 02-16-2008, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by drmabuse View Post

You got it - the mic comes with a disc that contains software and cal files that are specific to the actual mic in the box and the actual serial number of the D2.
/\\/\\

OK - now I really am counting the minutes until I can buy one of these. I love my D2 and I think that Anthem is a great company with great customer support, but they may contribute to me finally checking myself into a mental institution!
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Old 02-16-2008, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dschamis View Post

OK - now I really am counting the minutes until I can buy one of these. I love my D2 and I think that Anthem is a great company with great customer support, but they may contribute to me finally checking myself into a mental institution!

Ahh yes - but what a way to go insane!!!
/\\/\\
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Old 02-16-2008, 12:17 PM
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Hello all,

I have been searching the forum but I am unable to find (not that it isn't there) anything like release notes etc. for the firmware releases beyond 1.11. My D2 is on 1.11 and I am curious to see if there is any reason to upgrade to newer firmware. Can someone please point me in the right direction? (I am already aware that 1.11 is the latest *official* release.) Thanks in advance!

Bart
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:01 PM
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Hello all,

I have been searching the forum but I am unable to find (not that it isn't there) anything like release notes etc. for the firmware releases beyond 1.11. My D2 is on 1.11 and I am curious to see if there is any reason to upgrade to newer firmware. Can someone please point me in the right direction? (I am already aware that 1.11 is the latest *official* release.) Thanks in advance!

Bart

This is from 1.12s. Hope this helps.

SOFTWARE UPDATE

CHANGE LIST

v1.20:

For operational changes, see operating manual v1.2x.

1. Setup menu 24 characters wide instead of 28 due to old character generator becoming obsolete.

2. Analog input level meter now has overload indication (pink = signal is within last 6 dB of scale, red = overload).

3. Dual video output configuration added, assignable by input.

4. Setup menus rearranged including split between source setup and mode presets.

5. MODE key shortcuts rearranged to include video-out selection.

6. Contrast adjustment bars added to SMPTE color bar test pattern.

7. Added ability to select HDMI audio-in with alternate video-in.

8. Deleted Bass Peak Level Manager - too many "bass sounds thin" calls arising from misuse, and because decent subs normally don't need external limiting.

9. Major HDMI/EDID driver changes to address capabilities of latest HD disc players and other newer sources without corruption of earlier sources, and to improve 'auto' video-out setting with DVI displays (auto relies on info from the display - if it doesn't appear that the correct output is in effect, use forced settings).

10. Added Dialog Normalization to info when Status is pressed (not displayed when 0 dB).

11. More installer changes to address a variation of XP.

12. Added gamma curve generating tools to Live Video Settings Editor to make curve creation and simple gain/offset adjustments quicker and easier.

13. Upgraded D1s now display "D2" instead of "D1-HD".

14. DVD2 and DVD3 now disabled by default (still set as pillarbox and 16:9 input crop respectively).

15. Improved lock for analog video input.

16. Improved frame lock.

17. Increased serial command buffering at power-on.

18. Improved handling of 1080p24 in to 1080p24 out without using frame lock.


v1.11:

1. In some instances there was a problem installing v1.10 - we apologize for any inconvenience. v1.11 has modified buffering that works with all computers that we could test with. If this does not work, please contact tech support, listing as many details as you can about your computer's hardware and operating system.


v1.10:

As of this version, video source adjustments cannot be made if the selected source has no video input.

1. Added gamma correction (through Live Video Settings Editor).

2. Added custom output resolution and timing (through Live Video Settings Editor).

3. Added frame lock.

4. Added multiple input memory.

5. Reduced number of color space conversions. Note that because of this, if input is RGB and output is RGB, Color and Tint adjustments can no longer be made - simply set your source to YCbCr output instead of RGB if adjustment is necessary.

6. Added colon ( to character set for renaming sources.

7. Increased HDMI compatibility yet again. Known problems are very few at this time. If you are experiencing problems, ensure that all connected equipment has latest drivers installed before contacting tech support (you might need to contact your cable/sat company).

If you need to contact Anthem tech support regarding connectivity from a computer's video output, please provide details including operating system, build of operating system, microprocessor, video card model, software, version of software, and settings. If your computer provides EDID status, that would greatly help as well.


v1.06:

1. Increased HDMI compatibility with a certain DVD player.

2. Removed from menu 8 output resolutions which can't always be supported by HDMI connection due to bandwidth restriction. **YOU MAY NEED TO RESET OUTPUT RESOLUTION IN MENU 8 depending on which you had set. If you cannot see an image on your display after the update, use the front panel display to navigate through the menu. Even if you are getting a picture immediately after this update, check menu 8 to make sure that the output resolution and refresh rate are set correctly since the setting may have changed to another that works, but with lower performance.

If you are saving your settings in menu 12, be sure to back them up after making this change.

If you were using Settings Editor, the wrong value will may stored there. After the software update, save the setup again using Setup Editor v1.06 (now called Setup Editor to prevent confusion with the Live Video Settings Editor).


v1.04:

1. Increased compatibility with HDMI-connected equipment that doesn't follow all of the HDMI spec.

2. Added adjustments for analog video inputs - see pdf file.

Tip: If you are using S-Video inputs and prefer the appearance of the hi-def OSD characters vs the default S-Video ones, you can enable the HD characters with S-Video inputs, although they will appear only when a video signal is present - change first item in menu 11 to HD Only.


v1.00 D2 / v1.01 AVM 50:

1. Initial releases.


---------------------------------------
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

The Format War is OVER

So how do you plan to celebrate VF day (Victory in Format)?

Reuters is now citing internal Toshiba sources saying the official announcement may come as early as next week.

I'm pissed that HD-DVD is caving before Blu-Ray gets its act together though. With the pressure off, I just see more delay and screw ups from the Blu-Ray side -- not to mention a slower rate of price drops.

Ah well. The things we waste time on while waiting for ARC to ship...

(grin!)

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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