Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 718 - AVS Forum
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post #21511 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael_V View Post

My Bryston manual makes no mention of pulse vs continous voltage, but I will see what I can find out. There are only two switches on the back: LOCAL vs REMOTE and AUTO vs MANUAL (for LOCAL). For kicks, I tried both AUTO and MANUAL with no effect. I will try reversing the wires tonight. If it is a pulse voltage issue, I guess I am out of luck unless/until Anthem puts in an option to switch between the two in a future firmware update.

Bob,

Here is the reply I got from Bryston Tech Support:

"Yes that is what they say [12V continuous] but is your actual unit doing what its suppose to? You will need to put a volt meter across the terminals to verify it. Or another approach to verify the Bryston is working as it to use some other kind of supply to see if it responds the same way. These tigger circuits have proven to be extremely reliable so I suspect the supply voltage is most likely your issue."

All right, so for the sake of discussion, is there any possibility my AVM50v isn't sending continuous voltage?
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post #21512 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael_V View Post

Bob,

Here is the reply I got from Bryston Tech Support:

"Yes that is what they say [12V continuous] but is your actual unit doing what its suppose to? You will need to put a volt meter across the terminals to verify it. Or another approach to verify the Bryston is working as it to use some other kind of supply to see if it responds the same way. These tigger circuits have proven to be extremely reliable so I suspect the supply voltage is most likely your issue."

All right, so for the sake of discussion, is there any possibility my AVM50v isn't sending continuous voltage?

No. The only trigger available from the AVM 50v is continuous voltage.

If you measure and find there is no voltage being generated on the trigger output you either have a setup error or you have a faulty cable -- perhaps the plug not fully inserted.

Make sure you are using the correct jacks. The Trigger output jacks are the mini-mono jacks located just to the left of the RS-232 socket when you face the back of the Anthem. Do not use a cable with a stereo plug as it won't make proper electrical contact in the jack.

In Setup > Triggers make sure All Triggers Enabled is set.

You described putting the "*" in the appropriate row, but make sure it is also in the appropriate column of the table.

And keep in mind that the changes you make to the Trigger table don't actually take effect until you exit the Setup menu.

So get an inexpensive DC voltmeter from Radio Shack and measure the Trigger output on the Bryston end of your trigger cable.

One last thing to check. Some triggerable devices have a trigger daisy-chain output as well as the input -- used to let you chain multiple amps all on one trigger. To get the trigger to work you need to terminate the chain. Often this is done by putting a wire across the output so that the signal comes in the input, goes to the output, crosses the wire, and goes back to the input and then back to the source. Check your Bryston manual.
--Bob

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post #21513 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scanido View Post

Does the AVM50 do any upconversion of the incoming signals?

Also, from an aesthetics point of view, can the side rack mounts on the D2V be removed and make it look like an AVM50?

The AVM 50 processes and scales S-video, Component and HDMI video inputs. Its video solution is identical to what is found in the D2. The same is true about the video solution found in the newer AVM 50v compared to the newer D2v.

The AVM 50 processes, but does not upsample, digital audio inputs. The same is true of the newer AVM 50v.

The standard "wing handles" on the D2v are decorative -- they are not intended as rack mount attachments.

The D2v can be ordered in a version where those are replaced by rack mount attachments or in a version without anything on the sides. These styles generally add some time to the order lead time.
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post #21514 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 11:48 AM
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On my samsung BR player should I select bistream(audiophile) or pcm to the AVM50 (hdmi connection). I tried both settings and it sounded the same?
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post #21515 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by zuesmaximus View Post

On my samsung BR player should I select bistream(audiophile) or pcm to the AVM50 (hdmi connection). I tried both settings and it sounded the same?

Bitstream will get you the lossy "compatibility" tracks from Blu-Ray discs.

LPCM will get you the lossless tracks IF the player is able to decode those, otherwise you will also get the lossy tracks.

So if you have a decoding player, LPCM is definitely what you want with the older AVM 50.

Also look for a setting in the player to turn off secondary audio mixing (when you don't actually need it) as having that on may also cause the player to only use the lossy compatibility tracks.
--Bob

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post #21516 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Bitstream will get you the lossy "compatibility" tracks from Blu-Ray discs.

LPCM will get you the lossless tracks IF the player is able to decode those, otherwise you will also get the lossy tracks.

So if you have a decoding player, LPCM is definitely what you want with the older AVM 50.

Also look for a setting in the player to turn off secondary audio mixing (when you don't actually need it) as having that on may also cause the player to only use the lossy compatibility tracks.
--Bob

when I flipped back and forth between settings on Samsung BD-P3600, I was testing player with Wall E. The Avm50 displayed PLIIx movie with PCM setting and DTS matrix with bitstream setting.
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post #21517 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

By the way, 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" signal for HDMI to carry.
--Bob

Bob,
Does this mean it will not carry 480i? I thought my Pioneer 79 was passing 480i thru HDMI to the D2.
Thank you.
Ben
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post #21518 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by zuesmaximus View Post

On my samsung BR player should I select bistream(audiophile) or pcm to the AVM50 (hdmi connection). I tried both settings and it sounded the same?

It *is* the same (I'm assuming you meant 50v?). Conventional wisdom says to set it to LPCM, so if you want to listen to secondary audio tracks it can mix them with the HD audio from the main track (this is impossible with bitstream).

TiVo is on it's way out - stream everything!
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post #21519 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AbMagFab View Post

It *is* the same (I'm assuming you meant 50v?). Conventional wisdom says to set it to LPCM, so if you want to listen to secondary audio tracks it can mix them with the HD audio from the main track (this is impossible with bitstream).

I have it set that way with my AVM50v but I was referring to my another HT which I'm using AVM50. I was just a little confused because when set to pcm the anthem didn't display DTS. which Wall E is in DTS. switched to bitstream -audiophile(there are two different bitstream setting in the Samsung) and anthem displayed DTS matrix.

Manual from Samsung claims to use bitstream audiophile if my connection hdmi 1.3a. I always thought to set it to PCM
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post #21520 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 02:04 PM
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[quote=ehlarson;16408029]Most cable providers are in the process of converting everything to digital. I'm at the point with Cablevision that I don't need to watch analog any more, so the only thing I have to deal with is the occasional obnoxious commercial.



It maybe as easy to say; If you are a ROGERS user, their calibration at their HEADEND, is as good as their idiot installers. Have you ever seen a ground install to a gas pipe. Only a ROGERS installer could do this. I have a 20 db swing on some channels. GO ROGERS GO

Every day above ground is a good day.
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post #21521 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by benleeys View Post

Bob,
Does this mean it will not carry 480i? I thought my Pioneer 79 was passing 480i thru HDMI to the D2.
Thank you.
Ben

No. It just means that HDMI 480i is trickier to implement than HDMI 480p for technical reasons that you probably don't care about. That's why some HDMI devices punt and don't even try to support HDMI 480i (e.g., the PS3).

Your Pioneer DV-79avi SD-DVD player does HDMI 480i to the D2 just fine.
--Bob

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post #21522 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuesmaximus View Post

I have it set that way with my AVM50v but I was referring to my another HT which I'm using AVM50. I was just a little confused because when set to pcm the anthem didn't display DTS. which Wall E is in DTS. switched to bitstream -audiophile(there are two different bitstream setting in the Samsung) and anthem displayed DTS matrix.

Manual from Samsung claims to use bitstream audiophile if my connection hdmi 1.3a. I always thought to set it to PCM

When set to LPCM output, the player decodes the traditional DTS track to LPCM. The AVM 50 sees LPCM and has no way to know what it was before the player did the decoding. That's why the DTS light doesn't come on in the AVM 50.

For traditional DD and DTS tracks you can use either HDMI bitstream (decode in the Anthem) or HDMI LPCM (decode in the player) with the AVM 50. There is no difference.

For the new lossless tracks from Blu-Ray discs (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) you must use a player that can decode those to LPCM and you must set the player to HDMI LPCM output for the AVM 50. Otherwise the Blu-Ray player will automatically switch to using the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" compatibility track -- basically a traditional DD5.1 or DTS track -- which is on disc for just such compatibility purposes.
--Bob

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post #21523 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 03:49 PM
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Thanks bob,

i'll switch settings back to pcm for the avm50. Is it different for the avm50v?
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post #21524 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by zuesmaximus View Post

Thanks bob,

i'll switch settings back to pcm for the avm50. Is it different for the avm50v?

The AVM 50v also offers the option to do its own decoding of HDMI Bitstreams for the lossless TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks.

Some players can't decode and only allow bitstream output of those tracks -- such players make no sense to pair with the AVM 50 but can be used with the AVM 50v. Some players can decode and DON'T allow bitstream output of those tracks -- use them via HDMI LPCM with either the AVM 50 or AVM 50v (the PS3 is the most prominent example of this type). Some players can neither decode nor bitstream DTS-HD MA tracks in particular -- and thus your only option is to listen to the lossy, "core" DTS track if you play a disc that uses DTS-HD MA. If you buy a player like that your best choice is to replace it.

Me recommendation is that you get a player that does a proper job of decoding those tracks and use HDMI LPCM output. The PS3 does that, as does the new Oppo BDP-83. The BDP-83 also bitstreams (to the AVM 50v or D2v).
--Bob

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post #21525 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donloz View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ehlarson View Post

Most cable providers are in the process of converting everything to digital. I'm at the point with Cablevision that I don't need to watch analog any more, so the only thing I have to deal with is the occasional obnoxious commercial.

It maybe as easy to say; If you are a ROGERS user, their calibration at their HEADEND, is as good as their idiot installers. Have you ever seen a ground install to a gas pipe. Only a ROGERS installer could do this. I have a 20 db swing on some channels. GO ROGERS GO

I share your pain. I have grounding problems too. I had to put an isolation transformer in my cable line to kill a nasty ground loop.

"Nature Abhors a Vacuum Tube" -  J. R. Pierce
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post #21526 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Most Windows users posting here have had the best luck with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter, available from Amazon among other places.

When you get it, go to the Keyspan support site and verify that the device driver that came in the package is the latest driver for 64-bit Vista. If not, download and install the newer driver.
--Bob

Thanks Bob. I got the Keyspan. Downloaded the latest Vista 64 bit drivers and when I went to plug the Keyspan into the back of my Anthem it wouldn't fit. Do I need an adapter for the Keyspan to fit into the Anthem? If so what kind?

Cheers from the Great White North.
My gear: ANTHEM AVM50v, STATEMENT A5 - ARCAM DV139, CD17 - PANASONIC 65VT30 (THX Calibrated) - SONY BDP-S5000ES - PANAMAX 5500EX - M&K V1250THX sub - TANNOY EYRIS DC3, DCC, DC1 - AUDIOQUEST Cables - SHUNYATA RESEARCH Power cords - HARMONY One - PRIMACOUSTIC Recoil Stabilizers
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post #21527 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 09:14 PM
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I just did this with my AVM50. Purchase a male/female serial cable. Unscrew the 5 sided nuts from the male end of the Keyspan and connect the female end of the serial cable to it. Connect the female end of the cable to the processor. Voila! Actually, I was baffled by this (not hard to do with me) as well when I tried to get the Keyspan to connect to connect to the processor.
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post #21528 of 43398 Old 05-06-2009, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by fuzzybk View Post

Thanks Bob. I got the Keyspan. Downloaded the latest Vista 64 bit drivers and when I went to plug the Keyspan into the back of my Anthem it wouldn't fit. Do I need an adapter for the Keyspan to fit into the Anthem? If so what kind?

Plug the Keyspan into the USB port of your computer. Run a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 with no pair swapped) from the Keyspan to the back of your Anthem.

I leave the serial cable permanently attached to the back of my D2v -- coiled neatly out of the way when I'm not using it.
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post #21529 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

No. It just means that HDMI 480i is trickier to implement than HDMI 480p for technical reasons that you probably don't care about. That's why some HDMI devices punt and don't even try to support HDMI 480i (e.g., the PS3).

Your Pioneer DV-79avi SD-DVD player does HDMI 480i to the D2 just fine.
--Bob

Ok, Bob, that's good enough for me. Thanks. Maybe that's the reason why my Denon 5910 does not pass 480i thru HDMI.

On another matter, I was just trying to set the CD input source in the D2 from RCA digital to HDMI connection but could not get it working for some time, and the display keep showing "Analog-DSP" input. While in the Setup Menu, upon selecting "Dig HDMI" for Audio In, the sound came thru, but upon exiting the menu, there was only silence.

Finally, as a last resort, I changed Scaler Input from "None" to "HDMI", even though I wasn't intending to use this source for video. Didn't quite make sense to me, but it worked. Wish the manual had mentioned this.
Ben
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post #21530 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 09:29 AM
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I recently did a complete firmware wipe of my D2 to evaluate if a wipe and reload would make the HDMI handshake problems I've been having improve. That did work to a small degree.

The puzzlement came when I used the internal calibration tone to first balance the speaker output. To achieve the 75db level with the sub-woofer, I used its' volume control.

When I ran ARC, it could not complete the sweep sequence due to low sub-woofer output. I raised the SW output volume, in small increments, a few time to finally get it to finish the cycle on the first position. It completed the rest without a problem.

When I uploaded ARC to the processor to analyze speaker levels, ARC set the SW level to -5.5db. It struck me as odd that it would error out due to low volume and then cut the SW output.

Doing a forum search did not come up with a similar problem.

Anyone else have the same issue?

John
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post #21531 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by benleeys View Post

Finally, as a last resort, I changed Scaler Input from "None" to "HDMI", even though I wasn't intending to use this source for video. Didn't quite make sense to me, but it worked. Wish the manual had mentioned this.
Ben

Hmmm, I thought the firmware wouldn't let you select Digital HDMI for audio unless you had previously selected HDMI video to go to the scaler?

But perhaps there's a glitch if you are sending "None" to the scaler. Apparently so if you heard audio while fiddling with that in the Setup menu.

Yes, HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video. That means the HDMI video has to be processed by the Anthem before it can see the HDMI audio embedded inside it.

Note that the audio setting is just "Dig HDMI", i.e., without specifying WHICH HDMI input is to be used. The choice of which HDMI input to use is made in the Scaler Input line. That's supposed to be the clue that you have to set both.
--Bob

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post #21532 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by netroamer View Post

I recently did a complete firmware wipe of my D2 to evaluate if a wipe and reload would make the HDMI handshake problems I've been having improve. That did work to a small degree.

The puzzlement came when I used the internal calibration tone to first balance the speaker output. To achieve the 75db level with the sub-woofer, I used its' volume control.

When I ran ARC, it could not complete the sweep sequence due to low sub-woofer output. I raised the SW output volume a few time to finally get it to finish the cycle on the first position. It completed the rest without a problem.

When I uploaded ARC to the processor to analyze speaker levels, ARC set the SW level to -5.5db. It struck me as odd that it would error out due to low volume and then cut the SW output.

Doing a forum search did not come up with a similar problem.

Anyone else have he same issue?

ARC uses the "Noise Level" line in Setup > Level Calibration to set the volume of its test sweep tones. [NOTE: In the AVM 50v and D2v firmware this is labeled "Test Level".]

Zero out all entries in Setup > Level Calibration. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Scroll down to Noise Level and adjust it to yield roughly 75dB SPL (sound will be coming from the LF speaker). Now scroll down to either subwoofer line -- which will still be at 0dB. Leave that line at 0dB (and also leave Noise Level where you just set it) and adjust the volume knob built into your subwoofer to yield roughly 75dB SPL.

Exit Setup and go do your ARC Measurements. Only the Noise Level line and the volume knob setting on your subwoofer matters. This is why you don't have to redo this stuff for subsequent ARC Measurements. The speaker volume trims ARC Uploads from prior setups will just be ignored when you do your next Measurement.

If ARC has trouble hearing the audio from the subwoofer at any given mic location, just tell it to retry a time or two.

If it STILL can't hear the subwoofer properly, don't raise the volume knob in the subwoofer. Instead exit ARC Measurements, go back into Setup > Level Calibration, and raise Noise Level a couple dB. Exit Setup and redo your ARC Measurements from the beginning.

ARC listens to a much wider frequency range than is represented by the test tones built into the Setup > Level Calibration menu. For example it goes all the way down to 5Hz for the subwoofer. If your subwoofer has an unusually wide variation in output across its frequency range, ARC may need a different volume level to help counter that. In addition, if Noise Level is not set properly, ARC may need to adjust the basic volume level of the whole solution to get the main speakers where they need to be, and then ARC will have to re-adjust the volume of the sub more than normal to correct for that.

If your room has significant room nulls or resonances in the bass frequencies, these will likely show up more at just some mic locations. That's why ARC may have trouble at one mic location and not at others even though the sub output sounds just fine to you from where you are standing while the test sweeps are happening.

Also, it is often the case that ARC will hear ambient noise in the bass frequencies during a test sweep that you can't hear. And thus ARC will tell you it needs to retry. This is much more likely to happen for the subwoofer than for the other speakers. Just tell ARC to retry.
--Bob

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post #21533 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post


Zero out all entries in Setup > Level Calibration. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Scroll down to Noise Level and adjust it to yield roughly 75dB SPL (sound will be coming from the LF speaker). Now scroll down to either subwoofer line -- which will still be at 0dB. Leave that line at 0dB (and also leave Noise Level where you just set it) and adjust the volume knob built into your subwoofer to yield roughly 75dB SPL.

I did all the above befor the first try with ARC. If it happens with a new sweep I plan to do shortly, I will zero everything out, set the master level to achieve 75db and try to increase the SW level in the speaker level setting, as you suggested, and try again.

Thanks.

John
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post #21534 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael_V View Post

Bob,

Here is the reply I got from Bryston Tech Support:

"Yes that is what they say [12V continuous] but is your actual unit doing what its suppose to? You will need to put a volt meter across the terminals to verify it. Or another approach to verify the Bryston is working as it to use some other kind of supply to see if it responds the same way. These tigger circuits have proven to be extremely reliable so I suspect the supply voltage is most likely your issue."

All right, so for the sake of discussion, is there any possibility my AVM50v isn't sending continuous voltage?

Hello Michael, I have a D2 and a Bryston 6B-SST Amp and I had "Trigger Setup Issues" and finally got it working using; (External Turn On)=External and "(POWER UP)= AUTO. Hope this helps. The Bryston settings are the culprit because they are not intuitive! Never had an issue after using these settings. John
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post #21535 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 11:14 AM
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New Version of Perfect Bass Kit (PBK) Appears on Password Protected Download Page

A new version of Paradigm's "Perfect Bass Kit" (PBK) software, V1.02.0, has now appeared in Link 6 on Anthem's password protected download page. This is the repackaging of ARC in a subwoofer-only form for use with Paradigm's new subwoofers when they are paired with receivers or pre-amp processors that don't already have ARC.

It is not needed by anyone who has ARC on their Anthem processor as ARC already takes care of all this subwoofer stuff (and also all the other speakers) using the DSP power inside the processor itself. No additional processing (e.g., PBK) is needed inside the subwoofer.

One thing that's interesting is that there is a Microsoft Word file in there documenting the installation of the USB driver for Windows used by PBK -- presumably the way the PBK measurement and setup application talks to the PBK hardware in the subwoofer. Presumably this is an example of what folks would have to go through if Anthem replaced the serial port in the AVM 50v and D2v with a USB port for some future version of those processors.

This is apparently not needed for the ARC mic (also a USB device) because ARC builds on top of a Microsoft USB microphone device driver and audio capture framework already built into Windows XP and later.
--Bob

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post #21536 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Hmmm, I thought the firmware wouldn't let you select Digital HDMI for audio unless you had previously selected HDMI video to go to the scaler?

But perhaps there's a glitch if you are sending "None" to the scaler. Apparently so if you heard audio while fiddling with that in the Setup menu.
--Bob

Exactly. The firmware allowed me to select "Digital HDMI" even when "None" was set for Scaler Input. And the sound came thru immediately even while I was still in the Setup menu, stopping only upon exiting.

Maybe you could try this out on your D2v.

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Yes, HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video. That means the HDMI video has to be processed by the Anthem before it can see the HDMI audio embedded inside it.

Ah, yes, now that you mention it again, I do remember you having said it somewhere else.

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Note that the audio setting is just "Dig HDMI", i.e., without specifying WHICH HDMI input is to be used. The choice of which HDMI input to use is made in the Scaler Input line. That's supposed to be the clue that you have to set both.

Guess some idiotic users like yours truely lacks that intuitive quality.

Thanks
Ben
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post #21537 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 01:40 PM
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My dealer just informed me that shipment of the D2v's has been delayed further, but he was unable to tell me the length of this most recent delay. Anyone have any updated information about this latest delay?

And while I am waiting very patiently for my D2v, my OPPO BDP-83 should ship in a week or so, at least according to an email I received from them. I know that many people, including Bob Pariseau, are, or will be using this combination, and it would be great to have a link to a list of settings for both units so that users may get the most from their gear.

Another query for this knowledgeable group: has anyone confirmed that the BDP-83 upsamples DVD's at least to the same level of quality as their current standalone DVD players? I ask this because I am considering ordering another BDP-83 for a second system that lacks the reference quality upscaler in the D2v.

Thanks guys!!

Jeff.
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post #21538 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 01:50 PM
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I ordered a AVM-50v last weekend but changed my mind and had my dealer switch it to a D2v yesterday. He was suppose to call Anthem today and promised to check on a delivery date. If he gets anything of substance I report back tonight.
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post #21539 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alembicjeff View Post

My dealer just informed me that shipment of the D2v's has been delayed further, but he was unable to tell me the length of this most recent delay. Anyone have any updated information about this latest delay?

And while I am waiting very patiently for my D2v, my OPPO BDP-83 should ship in a week or so, at least according to an email I received from them. I know that many people, including Bob Pariseau, are, or will be using this combination, and it would be great to have a link to a list of settings for both units so that users may get the most from their gear.

Another query for this knowledgeable group: has anyone confirmed that the BDP-83 upsamples DVD's at least to the same level of quality as their current standalone DVD players? I ask this because I am considering ordering another BDP-83 for a second system that lacks the reference quality upscaler in the D2v.

Thanks guys!!

Jeff.

I have a Denon 3930ci (Realta) which is one of the best stand-alone DVD players ever made, and I feel that the Oppo BDP-83 is overall very comparable. Which of the two you prefer would probably be a matter of personal taste.

"Nature Abhors a Vacuum Tube" -  J. R. Pierce
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post #21540 of 43398 Old 05-07-2009, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alembicjeff View Post

My dealer just informed me that shipment of the D2v's has been delayed further, but he was unable to tell me the length of this most recent delay. Anyone have any updated information about this latest delay?

And while I am waiting very patiently for my D2v, my OPPO BDP-83 should ship in a week or so, at least according to an email I received from them. I know that many people, including Bob Pariseau, are, or will be using this combination, and it would be great to have a link to a list of settings for both units so that users may get the most from their gear.

Another query for this knowledgeable group: has anyone confirmed that the BDP-83 upsamples DVD's at least to the same level of quality as their current standalone DVD players? I ask this because I am considering ordering another BDP-83 for a second system that lacks the reference quality upscaler in the D2v.

Thanks guys!!

Jeff.

I'm currently using 1080p output from the BDP-83 for SD-DVDs and it does a great job.

I posted my BDP-83 settings here just a few days ago. There are no unusual settings need in the D2v for the BDP-83.

I suspect the order lead time on AVM 50v and D2v units is still around 60 days, but I don't have any recent info on that.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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