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post #2131 of 43031 Old 11-18-2006, 05:44 PM
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budeone,
I had another thought. Go to the serial port setup for your PC and check that RTS/CTS is set properly according to the V1.10 install instructions. As I recall Anthem wants it OFF.

RTS/CTS is a pair of serial port hardware signals for "flow control". If the receiving side gets data too fast it can assert this to stop the sending side at the hardware level. The V1.10 load may have files of just the wrong length causing a problem here and the serial port is shutting down and never getting turned back on again -- rather than the data just being re-sent by the installer program.

Re-read the short list of the instructions that came in the V1.10 install package and look for any other possible gotchas like this.
--Bob

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post #2132 of 43031 Old 11-18-2006, 06:35 PM
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Bob:

My AVM came from the factory yesterday (apparently built last week). On the box it says V1.06.

I have a Toshiba 51HX83 51" CRT with HDCP DVI. It is set to 1080i and is receiving signal from the AVM via HDMI x DVI.

I have an Oppo 970HD DVD player. The output on it is set for "RAW". (My choices are raw or pcm). HDMI audio is set to "Auto". (My choices are auto, lcpm or off). It's output is set to 480i and is going to the AVM via an HDMI cable.

I have a Bell HD PVR Satellite receiver model 9200. It's output is set to 720p and also is going to the AVM via HDMI.

The video output on my AVM is set as follows:

OSD format = NTSC
Preferred = HDMI
Resolution = 1920x1080i/60
Color Space = HDTV
Data Format = RGB
Letterbox = Dark
Sync = Normal
Comp2 out = processed

I spent a significant amount of time with the two techs/installers trying various resolutions until they found one that worked.

So, the two issues are with the mode presets not sensing 5.1 material and with the video adjustment page being very small (20% of screen area).

Thanks for your help.

Click here for pic of my 7.1 home theater system and here for pic of S2 surround wall mounting.

Click here for pic of my 2 channel system.

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post #2133 of 43031 Old 11-18-2006, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

budeone,
I had another thought. Go to the serial port setup for your PC and check that RTS/CTS is set properly according to the V1.10 install instructions. As I recall Anthem wants it OFF.

RTS/CTS is a pair of serial port hardware signals for "flow control". If the receiving side gets data too fast it can assert this to stop the sending side at the hardware level. The V1.10 load may have files of just the wrong length causing a problem here and the serial port is shutting down and never getting turned back on again -- rather than the data just being re-sent by the installer program.

Re-read the short list of the instructions that came in the V1.10 install package and look for any other possible gotchas like this.
--Bob


I will look.. The only thing it said on the directions was to make it com 3..
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post #2134 of 43031 Old 11-18-2006, 07:11 PM
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Bluemark81,
For your Oppo, check it's firmware version against the one shown in the Support section of the Oppo web site. I seem to recall the original firmware had a problem with passing multi-channel audio properly over HDMI. If you have that firmware, this may be an easy fix.

There are lots of Oppo users here who can confirm whether I've remembered this correctly or not.

Also note that if you are playing SACD discs, you HAVE TO raise the Oppo video output resolution to 1080i to get multi-channel audio to work. This is a limitation of the HDMI spec which defines audio bandwidth as being a percentage of the selected video output bandwidth. Return to 480i for normal DVD playing.

For your 9200, there is almost certainly a setting needed to send Bitstream (undecoded Dolby 5.1 audio) output if it is capable of doing it. Double check that there isn't such a setting specific to HDMI audio output. I'm not familiar enough with the 9200, but be aware there are some older devices out there which limit their HDMI audio output to only 2 channels under the theory that you will connect HDMI directly to a TV and thus only have the two stereo speakers in the TV to work with. Typically these devices will have a clue in the manual to the effect that for best audiio you need to make some other audio connection AS WELL as using HDMI (for video). It is also likely that the 9200 will be happier if the Anthem is set to HDMI Repeater=NO on that input.

For your TV, everything you've described sounds correct. I'm going to try to see if I can bring up the Toshiba manual to look for gotchas but my traveling network is flakey so I may not be able to do that.

However, as an experiment, try using Component cables (only) to the Toshiba and see if the Anthem video adjust menu comes up properly at 1080i that way. This is not a workaround given that you want to use HDMI input devices but it may help close in on the problem.

To confirm the firmware version in your Anthem, just press the Select button on the remote control. Repeated pressings will bring up a series of status displays, one of which includes the current firmware version.
--Bob

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post #2135 of 43031 Old 11-18-2006, 07:15 PM
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Budeone,
I was talking about the "troubleshooting" section at the end of the Read Me First text file in the V1.10 install kit.

I just looked again and yes RTS/CTS should be off. As I recall you are using a USB to Serial adapter and you may need to turn this off yourself depending on how it defaults. It should be settable in Windows Hardware Device Manager for the COM port that the adapter implements.
--Bob

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post #2136 of 43031 Old 11-18-2006, 10:59 PM
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I am also having problems updating my D2.. have had no problems in the past... Will find D2, EPROM programming and verify, and now it is hanging on the Verify Flash portion... in the past, it had made it to the GF programming and then died, and also once made it to the OSD programming section and died....

Same laptop, same connector.. very frustrating... All HDMI is unplugged...

Anybody care to send me some old D2 software? It would be greatly appreciated....

fishman.stuff@dslextreme.com
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post #2137 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmMixer View Post

I am also having problems updating my D2.. have had no problems in the past... Will find D2, EPROM programming and verify, and now it is hanging on the Verify Flash portion... in the past, it had made it to the GF programming and then died, and also once made it to the OSD programming section and died....

Same laptop, same connector.. very frustrating... All HDMI is unplugged...

Anybody care to send me some old D2 software? It would be greatly appreciated....

fishman.stuff@dslextreme.com

FilmMixer,

I can send v1.06 to you when I get home from work later tonight. This is for the AVM50, but I believe this is the same software download as the D2. Can someone verify that it is the same?

Mark

I contend that we are both atheists. I just believe in one fewer god than you do. When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours." - - Stephen Roberts
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post #2138 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 06:12 AM
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FilmMixer I just sent you 1.06. Let me know if you got it.
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post #2139 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 07:17 AM
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Besides running satellite for HDTV, I also have regular old cable from my cable company which comes into the house via coax. I can run this directly to my coax in on the back of the TV and switch my TV inputs to get the signal, but I would rather run it through the AVM for it's switching abilities. Since the AVM does not have coax in, I have a coax x RCA adapter that I could use or I could take that one step further and adapt from RCA to S-vid using a RCA x S-video adapter to go into the s-vid TV input on the back of the AVM. Currently, I am going in using the adapters and into S-vid on the back of the AVM. Then I've changed my setup page to the following settings for TV:


Rename: TV
Scaler Input: S-vid
HDMI Repeater: NA
Component Video In: None
S-Video In: TV
Composite Video In: None
Audio In: Anlg. Dir
NA for the remaining settings.

If I understand the manual correctly, if I use S-video, it will output the signal using HDMI going to my TV. However, I am not receiving any signals on my TV when I switch to TV on the AVM. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Click here for pic of my 7.1 home theater system and here for pic of S2 surround wall mounting.

Click here for pic of my 2 channel system.

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post #2140 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolpht View Post

It definitely helps as I already had to add in an external HDMI switcher (now unused while I do gymnastics with the S3 (Brian appreciate the additional info on your setup asked above). Spent a couple hours last night programming remotes to deal with Zone 2 (and making sure to shut it off so the unit doesn't stay on constantly even with Main zone and amp triggered off), but can't complain as at least I have flexibility.

Now I just need to figure out how to use the extra devices and how to switch the combinations remotely.

Tim,

I'll try to assist, but I am astonished this is not working for you still. So, here goes some things to try:

1. Here are my settings for my Video Output, menu 8:
OSD Format: NTSC
Preferred: HDMI
Resolution: 1080i/60
Color Space: HDTV
Data Format: YCbCr 4:2:2
LetterBox: Black
Sync: Normal
Component 2 Out: Zone 2 ****THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT****

2. Also, make sure that for the Series 3 settings, you have something similar to this:

RENAME: Cable
Scaler Input: HDMI4 (yours may be a different HDMI input of course)
HMDI Repeater: No (very important)
Component Video In: 1 (or whichever yours is)
S-Video In: AUX
Composite Video In: AUX
Audio In: Dig OPT3 (or whichever Optical input you are using)
AutoDig: Yes ***This is quite important as well***

3. Lastly, and this is also very important...
Make sure that your settings under Menu 5 (Source Setup/Presets), make sure that all of the "Copy Main-->Zone2, Copy Main--->Zone 3, and Copy Main---Rec" are all set to "Manual". You can always copy inputs to other zones on an ad hoc basis, but by default, if I understand your needs correctly, you want to be able to have independent zones whereby different sources can be viewed/listened to in the different zones at the same time.

4. Also, you made a comment that raised an eyebrow over here. You said something about "even when the amp has turned itself off automatically after shutting down Zone 1." If you are using an Anthem A5 or P5, then yes, you have the automatic shutdown capability after 10 minutes or so, the amp will go into standby if there is no signal. This is a super cool feature, I'm totally with ya, and I'm glad to hear you are using it. However, you never mentioned having a second amp dedicated to Zone 2. I just wanna make sure that you do indeed have a second amp of some sort powering Zone 2. Each Zone needs its own amp to be useful. This is probably obvious, and you probably already know this, I just wanna make sure. In my case, I use an Anthem A5 for Zone 1, and an Anthem A2 for Zone 2. Zone 3 gets its power off of a 20-watt Computer Amp that is connected to my Mac, so that is a bit of an oddball setup in Zone 3 (I call it Franken-Amp!).

And, as Bob mentioned and as you've now confirmed, make sure the Tivo Series 3 is outputting "Native Mode".

There is no reason that the recipe above should not work with the Series 3. Of course, cabling is a nightmare, as you need both optical audio out and RCA stereo outputs to be connected, you also need HDMI as well as Component, and even SVideo and Composite if you want to independently output to any Zone (including REC zone) that uses SVideo or Composite [in my case, Zone 3 uses Composite, and REC uses SVideo, so I need those as well]. This again is how every source in my setup is configured basically - that is, I am using EVERY possible cable connection between every source and the D2, thereby allowing me to have the fully independent multi-zone, multi-source switching that I require).

I know some of this is repeated from before, but wanted to place everything in 1 comprehensive thread response.

Good luck, let me know how I can help further.

-Brian
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post #2141 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 08:33 AM
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Bluemark - That is not video coming in through the coax it is a modulated cable signal. You definitively don't want to feed that to your AVM-50 it would need a built in cable tuner, which it doesn't have to do anything with it. Your only alternative would be to get an external cable box.
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post #2142 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

FilmMixer I just sent you 1.06. Let me know if you got it.


Yes.. Tom.. Thanks!!!
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post #2143 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 10:02 AM
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Bluemark81,
Even worse the cable TV coax often has voltage on it that can be damaging.

DO NOT CONNECT YOUR CABLE TV COAX TO ANY INPUT ON YOUR ANTHEM!

Cable receivers in set top boxes and TVs are supposed to isolate such voltage, but even so, cable TV cable connections are often a source of 60Hz hum gettting in to your audio system.
--Bob

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post #2144 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 10:10 AM
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Thanks to Bob!

While playing around with various video output settings on the AVM, and also trying component cables as suggested by Bob, I discovered that my AVM reduces the size of the AVM's on screen video adjustment when I am set to 1080i output only. It seems if I set the AVM to any other resolution, the video adjustment window is large and legible. Using 1080i, I can barely read it. This is the case with either HDMI or Component.

Now, I have set the output resolution of the AVM to be 1280 x 720p/60, but my TV is a 1080i. Does this mean that the TV will convert the 720p output coming from the AVM to a 1080i at the TV? Doesn't this defeat the purpose of the scaling abilities of the AVM?

Click here for pic of my 7.1 home theater system and here for pic of S2 surround wall mounting.

Click here for pic of my 2 channel system.

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post #2145 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 10:25 AM
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Bluemark81,
I looked at the online manual for your TV and what you are doing should work. I could find no settings in the TV that might have confused things. The TV's DVI input is indeed intended for use at 1920x1080i/60Hz.

The video source adjust menus on a 51" screen should be easily readable from 10 feet away or more (if your TV doesn't have image quality problems and if you have normal eyesight).

Something very odd is going on with your video if those menus are so tiny.

-----------------------------------------------------

Check a few things:

1) Watch an HDTV channel using your 9200. Does the image fill the screen?

2) While continuing to watch that, bring up the video source adjust menu. Is it still tiny?

3) Go to the Info panel in the video source adjust menu. Write down the info it displays about input and output stuff and report back here. Does anything look odd to you in that info? For example, is the video output resolution what you expected it to be?

4) Go to the test patterns panel in the video source adjust menu and select any of the bar charts. Does the bar chart display and fill the screen? Use the Back key to exit the bar chart.

5) Exit the video source adjust menu and then repeatedly press the Select key on the remote to bring up the status displays. Write down the info and report back here.

6) Go to the Seup menu. Go to Save/Restore settings page. Select Save User Settings. Confirm that you want to do that and confirm that it responds that the save happened correctly.

7) Now in that same page, select Restore Factory Defaults. Confirm that you want to do that. Your video will likely vanish when you do that, but you can continue using the display on the front panel.

8) You should still be in the same page in Setup, but if not, use the front panel display and reenter Setup and the Save/Restore Settings page. Using the front panel display and the up/down arrow keys on the remote, select Restore Saved User Settings. Confirm you want to do that.

9) Back out of the Setup menu. Your video should be live again. Now try bringing up the video source adjust menus and see if they work better.

10) If not, go back into the video source adjust menu and go to the Crop panel and then the Scaling panel. Write down the current settings and report back here. In particular, double check that you don't have "Bypass" selected. The Bypass setting turns off the scaler and simply embeds the source signal in whatever you have specified as the video output resolution. So for example a 480i signal would appear as a small image in the middle of your 1080i screen. However that SHOULD NOT ALTER the size of the video source adjust menu itself.

I'm grasping at straws here. Let's collect a little more info like this and see if something stands out. The bit about saving settings, restoring defaults, and restoring saved settings will eliminate some confusing temporary settings that may have been turned on by accident during the installation processs.
--Bob

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post #2146 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 10:26 AM
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Check your TVs setup menu it may have the option to display 720p. I think you will find 720p to be just as pleasant (or more so) than 1080i as there will actually be more pixtels lit on the screen at any given time in 720p than in 1080i. Plus, keeping the TVs internal processor out of the picture and relying strictly on the Genum in the Anthem will give you lower video noise.

Jerry Rappaport
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post #2147 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemark81 View Post

Thanks to Bob!

While playing around with various video output settings on the AVM, and also trying component cables as suggested by Bob, I discovered that my AVM reduces the size of the AVM's on screen video adjustment when I am set to 1080i output only. It seems if I set the AVM to any other resolution, the video adjustment window is large and legible. Using 1080i, I can barely read it. This is the case with either HDMI or Component.

Now, I have set the output resolution of the AVM to be 1280 x 720p/60, but my TV is a 1080i. Does this mean that the TV will convert the 720p output coming from the AVM to a 1080i at the TV? Doesn't this defeat the purpose of the scaling abilities of the AVM?

Bluemark,

If your TV's normal native rate is 1080i, then you should be sending 1080i from the AVM in all cases to the TV. Set the AVM back to 1080i, not 720p. Don't worry about the video calibration menu being a smaller window, that is how it is intended to look when you are mapping 1:1 pixels to your display. You will not be in this menu that often anyway, once things are set properly for each of your sources. As you note, anything other than what i just described above is a waste of the Gennum scaler in the AVM.

Also, please ensure, as others have said, that you are not connecting a raw cable feed to the D2 in any way, regardless of cable termination type. That could be disastrous, because of the high voltage of a raw cable feed. You need a cable tuner, such as a cablebox, or CableCard, or Tivo DVR, or some combination thereof. Your TV has a built in tuner, your Anthem does not.

-Brian
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post #2148 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 10:41 AM
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For those following the Bluemark81 saga, his TV is an older generation, rear projection, CRT based, HDTV ready TV with an HDCP compliant DVI input that is intended for home theater use (as opposed to PC hookup).

Since it is not a fixed pixel display, it doesn't have a "native resolution" per se, but as with almost all CRT based TVs its internal circuitry works best if it receives HDTV at 1920x1080i/60Hz.

-------------------------------------------------------

Bluemark81,
CRT TVs handle different resolutions by simply adjusting their scan timing. The result is fatter pixels for SDTV and tinier pixels for HDTV -- i.e., the number of pixels that fill the screen is different for each resolution. As such, it doesn't have the same type of "scaling" problems that a fixed pixel display has (such as a plasma panel).

Nevertheless your particular TV is designed to handle HDTV best if fed a 1080i signal. It's not so much an issue of scaling as it is that that's how the circuitry is optimized.

Now it is my understanding that the video adjust menus should remain at their normal size even if you set the Anthem to put out 1080i. If someone knows different that is news to me. Personally I use 1360x768p to my plasma panel and I don't have a 1080 display to test this on. But it would seem very odd to me if Anthem overlooked a user interface issue such as this.
--Bob

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post #2149 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 11:40 AM
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My video menu gets quite a bit smaller on my CRT front projector when it outputs at 1080i vice 720P. Same thing happens when you increase resolution on a computer screen when you think about it. The menu stays at X number of pixels by Y number of pixels no matter what resolution you are at. So if you increase the screen resolution the physical screen size of the menu is smaller.
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post #2150 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

My video menu gets quite a bit smaller on my CRT front projector when it outputs at 1080i vice 720P. Same thing happens when you increase resolution on a computer screen when you think about it. The menu stays at X number of pixels by Y number of pixels no matter what resolution you are at. So if you increase the screen resolution the physical screen size of the menu is smaller.

Correct. 1080i will result in this "issue" being seen. It is not a problem at all. Nick at Anthem and I have discussed this in the past as well, it is totally expected behavior.

-Brian
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post #2151 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 12:31 PM
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Well it may be "expected" but it surely isn't desireable. This is the first blemish I've heard of in Anthem's support for 1080i/1080p displays.

It is not tough at all to adjust the font size and menu graphics to keep the menus useable at the higher resolutions. If you really do have to get up and go right up to the display to read the menus at 1080i and 1080p then that's just silly. These menus may not be used a lot but they are intended to be used WHILE WATCHING so that you can do things such as turning Edge Cropping on and off as you change channels. Yes there are remote control shortcuts for that but the menus should still be useable from a normal viewing location.

Anthem, if you are reading, take note that Bluemark81's bad reaction to this is unlikely to be unique.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

How about other elements of the on screen display such as volume changes or status displays that come up when you press Select or Mode? Are they also unusably small at 1080i or 1080p?

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Bluemark81,
You may want to use 720p for a while (if it works OK for you) until you get more familiar with the menus so that the tiny type at 1080i is less of a problem. But proper setup for your TV is to send it a 1080i signal, so that's really what you should try to use.

It wouldn't hurt to add your complaint to the list that Anthem support must already have on this.

OK so I guess that means we're back to figuring out just your 5.1 audio problems.
--Bob

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post #2152 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 01:09 PM
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Tom.. thanks so much for the software...

Alas.. I am still not able to update the D2 past the GF OSD.. it gets about 75% through and then I get:

"GF9350 OSD Serial FLASH 1 programming failed (error code =0x33394647)"

Yes I am using the D2 upgrade software, and I can reinstall 1.06 no problem......

Weird..... I am sure Nick will be able to help me out..
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post #2153 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 01:29 PM
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Bob,
I followed your advice to me in an earlier conversation and the update from 1.00 to 1.10 went in like a charm except for one small detail. I have sound but no picture with any source. I do have the D2 menus however and everything appears to be ok but still no visuals.

to refresh, I have a D2 with p2/p5 , ruby, hp xa1 , Sat HD, Cable HD, oppo and escient tied to the sony 777es carousel with and hp z558 (entertainment center (pseudo media pc)) and finally an xbox.

is there something obvious i need to do???? I have most devices coming HDMI 1080i (except the oppo which is 480i over HDMI) to the D2 and the D2 1080p/60 to the ruby.

any help would be appreciated as I am sitting in front of a blank screen now and my wife keeps pacing back and forth with an I told you so look on her face!!!!

Peter
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post #2154 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 01:32 PM
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FilmMixer,
Try the trick I mentioned to Budeone and see if it helps:

1) Re-install V1.06

2) Save your settings to a PC file if you haven't already done so.

3) Restore Factory Defaults in the D2 Setup menu to get things back to a known state.

4) Now try to install V1.10 over V1.06 set to Factory Defaults

5) If that works then you can restore your saved settings from the PC file.

---------------------------------------------------------

Also, since it is failing in the On Screen Display portion of the firmware, if you have any secondary screen connected via S-video for example, disconnect that as well as the HDMI.

Also, find the Serial port setup for the port your are using and confirm that RTS/CTS is turned OFF on your PC for that port.

I suppose this could also be a baud rate issue triggered by different file sizes in the new firmware. You could try lowering or even raising the serial port speed one step.
--Bob

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post #2155 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 01:38 PM
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Thanks for everyones input. It seems to have started quite a discussion. Anyway, currently, I have my output set to 720p.

Bob, following are the answers to your questions.

My answers follow each one of yours.

1) Watch an HDTV channel using your 9200. Does the image fill the screen? Yes, no problem there with either 1080i or 720p.

2) While continuing to watch that, bring up the video source adjust menu. Is it still tiny? Tiny only on 1080i regardless if I use DVI or component.

3) Go to the Info panel in the video source adjust menu. Write down the info it displays about input and output stuff and report back here. Does anything look odd to you in that info? For example, is the video output resolution what you expected it to be?

From the info screen, the infor is as follows:
For 720 p: or For 1080i
Input
Video Source: HDMI RGB; or No input; (this is odd isn't it?)
Signal: 1280 x 720p/59.94 Hz; or 1280 x 720p/59.94 Hz;
Audio: 2 ch FS:NA; or 2 Ch Fs:NA;

Output
Signal: 1280 x 720p/60Hz; or 1920 x 1080/60;
Frame Rate: 60.0 Hz; or 60;
Line Rate: 45000 Hz. or 33750.


4) Go to the test patterns panel in the video source adjust menu and select any of the bar charts. Does the bar chart display and fill the screen? Use the Back key to exit the bar chart. Fills the screen. Actually, the manual says there should be 20 vertical bars. I have 18.

5) Exit the video source adjust menu and then repeatedly press the Select key on the remote to bring up the status displays. Write down the info and report back here.

AVM v 1.06
Video input: 1280 x 720p/59.94 cp;
Audio in: 384 kbs;
Input: LCR LFE;
Format: LS RS;
Audio out: 48 kHz;
Output: LCR Sub;
Format: LS RS RR RS;
plus additional info that I don't think is relevant.

6) Go to the Seup menu. Go to Save/Restore settings page. Select Save User Settings. Confirm that you want to do that and confirm that it responds that the save happened correctly. I have already done this a few times.

7) Now in that same page, select Restore Factory Defaults. Confirm that you want to do that. Your video will likely vanish when you do that, but you can continue using the display on the front panel. I don't believe I want to do that now that I have everything programmed into it. Is this necessary?

8) You should still be in the same page in Setup, but if not, use the front panel display and reenter Setup and the Save/Restore Settings page. Using the front panel display and the up/down arrow keys on the remote, select Restore Saved User Settings. Confirm you want to do that. See above.

9) Back out of the Setup menu. Your video should be live again. Now try bringing up the video source adjust menus and see if they work better.

10) If not, go back into the video source adjust menu and go to the Crop panel and then the Scaling panel. Write down the current settings and report back here. In particular, double check that you don't have "Bypass" selected. The Bypass setting turns off the scaler and simply embeds the source signal in whatever you have specified as the video output resolution. So for example a 480i signal would appear as a small image in the middle of your 1080i screen. However that SHOULD NOT ALTER the size of the video source adjust menu itself.

I have anamorphic widescreen selected.

I have to say that since setting it to 720p, the picture actually appears to be better, even though 720 is not one of the TV's settings. Maybe it is because I've played around a bit with the video features, now that I can see them.

I hope this does not mean that I have to get a new TV. I still prefer the picture on my CRT over the new technologies, but if the AVM is not compatible, I may have to consider it.


Thanks for your help.

Click here for pic of my 7.1 home theater system and here for pic of S2 surround wall mounting.

Click here for pic of my 2 channel system.

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post #2156 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

Bob,
I followed your advice to me in an earlier conversation and the update from 1.00 to 1.10 went in like a charm except for one small detail. I have sound but no picture with any source. I do have the D2 menus however and everything appears to be ok but still no visuals.

to refresh, I have a D2 with p2/p5 , ruby, hp xa1 , Sat HD, Cable HD, oppo and escient tied to the sony 777es carousel with and hp z558 (entertainment center (pseudo media pc)) and finally an xbox.

is there something obvious i need to do???? I have most devices coming HDMI 1080i (except the oppo which is 480i over HDMI) to the D2 and the D2 1080p/60 to the ruby.

any help would be appreciated as I am sitting in front of a blank screen now and my wife keeps pacing back and forth with an I told you so look on her face!!!!

Peter


Greetings,

nineball, it is important that when this upgrade is done that your HDMI sourced components are not only turned off but I recommend that you disconnect the HDMI cables from the D2. When I first installed this latest update on my unit I got that black/blank screen also.

I reset the unit to factory defaults and disconnected y HDMI cables and reinstalled and it went fine.

Regards,

Ralph C. Potts
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post #2157 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 02:07 PM
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Nine Ball,
Yikes! I'd be pacing too!

Try the simple thing first: Press the "Main" path button near the top of the remote then select an input source using the buttons on the bottom of the remote. If you accidentally hit one of the other path buttons on the remote then the source selection will be for that path instead of the Main path.

If that doesn't fix it, the next thing to do is to go into Setup and carefully review all the settings for the inputs and the output to make sure the firmware upgrade didn't change something on you unexpectedly. You have more input choices now with the V1.10 stuff so your prior settings might not have been preserved properly. Apparently the audio side is working so concentrate on making sure the input video plug associated with the Scaler for each input source is correct and that things like HDMI Repeater are set as you wanted them.

I presume you've already checked that your video cables are propely plugged in from the sources.

If none of that fixes it, then we may need to dig around a bit:

1) Select your Oppo input and get a disc playing. It will likely go to its movie startup menu which should produce video and audio. Are you hearing the audio but seeing no video?

2) Press the Select button on the Anthem remote repeatedly and see what status info it gives you. For example, it should tell you the name of the source your selected and the incoming video resolution if any.

3) If you have some other video cable going to your Ruby as well as HDMI be sure the HDMI input is selected on the Ruby -- otherwise you may see the Anthem menus but no actual source video.

This is all I can think of to start. It is possible for the firmware load to fail but it is pretty unlikely for that to happen when it tells you everything worked properly.

You can reload the new firmware on top of itself, but check the other stuff first.
--Bob

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post #2158 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 02:09 PM
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Ralph,
thanks for the response. did you have audio with the blank screen???

Peter
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post #2159 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 02:15 PM
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Ralph,
I suspect the fact that you reset to Factory Defaults prior to re-installing may have been more important than physically unplugging the HDMI plugs. If the HDMI source device is powered off, the HDMI should be completely idle just as if it was unplugged.

It may be that this firmware install really does need to be preceded by a restore to Factory Defaults.
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post #2160 of 43031 Old 11-19-2006, 02:17 PM
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Bob,
I have a Warres 63 port with your name on it and it will remain in the cellar untill you come to Oakville for me to thank you. the ruby input button on the remote fixed it........!!!!!!!My God you are good.......

'Thank you so very much...


Your biggest fan,
Peter
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