Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 775 - AVS Forum
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post #23221 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 08:56 AM
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Hope they use this "red card" in the new 50v?!

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post #23222 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

Hope they use this "red card" in the new 50v?!

The AVM 50v has an entirely new video board. The same is true for the D2v.
--Bob

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post #23223 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Verbow View Post

Thanks Bob, but unfortunately something else is going on. I unplugged the power cord for about 20 sec and restarted it. Same problem, but every few seconds the DTS-MA display would come on and the blue light on the left would lock. It would only flash on for half a second and then say "Digital" again, but the fact that it was happening means it's getting the right digital signal.

I'll also add it's not limited to the lossless codecs - I put on a SD Starwars DVD and same issue - it said "digital" with flashes of the Dolby logo and Dolby light going on...

Edit: Just walked out and it was locked to DTS-MA after watching a whole movie (and testing others) where it didn't. Maybe the power cycling helped - need to get to bed so will try more tests tomorrow - but definitely something buggy going on.

OK, the first step is to update your D2v to the "official" V2.07 firmware. This will eliminate any possibility that your current firmware install is corrupted, as well as making sure you aren't being tripped up by some bug that is already fixed.

The next step is to carefully check your HDMI connections. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, problems on the input side could actually be due to a cable problem on the output to your display so check both side. Power everything off, get a flashlight, and take a careful look at the HDMI plugs and sockets looking for any signs of pin damage. Check both ends of each cable. If you find a damaged plug, discard that cable and re-check the socket it was plugged into. When you re-insert the HDMI plugs, keep in mind that they are only a friction fit, and that it only takes a little bit of shifting in the socket to make a marginal connection. So make sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, and that they are not being tugged or pushed in any direction -- as for example by the weight of the cable.

You mentioned that you just updated firmware in your Pioneer player. Did the problem in the D2v happen BEFORE you updated that firmware or is it possible the Pioneer firmware update is the cause? Do you have any other HDMI source devices you can use to check this?

In the original D2, the HDMI input function was handled by two chips that each handled two input sockets. Sockets 1 and 2 went to one chip, and sockets 3 and 4 went to another. I don't know how the work is divided up in the D2v, but it is likely there's a similar sort of thing going on. Which means trying a different socket would get you to a different chip. To figure out which socket to try, you'll have to give Anthem tech support a call. If you find things work correctly in one socket but not another (with the cable properly inserted both times), then you have a hardware problem in your D2v.
--Bob

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post #23224 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by /dev/null View Post

I just upgraded from the NAD T175(not the HD version) to the AVM50v. The only way the Anthem is leaving me, is when you physically pry it away from me.

Here's the longer answer... I bought the 175 a year and a half ago, and although I like the sound of it, it had issues. Loud popping on source changes and muting, problems syncing to 1080p60 on HDMI, and some discrepancies with what the advertising said it would have vs. what it would actually do. The 1080p60 problem was fixed within a short period of time by a pre-out and HDMI board replacement, and a DSP upgrade. It still popped and it still would not do HDMI audio over 96k sampling rate. The HD cards/version is supposed to take care of my problems, but is not covered by warranty.
NAD uses a company called Lenbrook, to handle their customer service. The lead tech there,Bob Moran, is more than competent, but has his hands tied by NAD (engineering as well as advertising), and what he can and cannot do as warranty fixes. Now on the flip side of the NAD coin, I bought a 973 amp which basically ate itself upon power-up. (great circuit breaker tester...) I took it back, and NAD replaced the amp with a 975. No questions asked.

Overall, IMO, Anthem seems to be... more responsible when it comes to taking care of their customers, fixing problems, and producing what the customer needs; not by making a product and selling the customer on it.

Comparing the 175 and the 50v? It's comparing apples and apple pie. Both have sort of the same stuff, but one is a more complete, mature product. SQ-wise, I love the 50v. With multi-channel, the 175 presents 5-7 speakers playing back the source. The 50v gives you the full soundfield. The stereo imaging is also spot on. SACD and analog present a stereo image that far exceeds the physical speakers. I have had to check on a few occasions now, that I was actually in 2-ch mode, and that no sound was emanating from the rear speakers. Video? Don't even get me started. Not even the same playing field.
If you want more details on any of the above, toss me a PM...


Ok, that's enough from me... Anyone want this soapbox now?

Thanks, I appreciate your experience and advice!
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post #23225 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

OK, the first step is to update your D2v to the "official" V2.07 firmware. This will eliminate any possibility that your current firmware install is corrupted, as well as making sure you aren't being tripped up by some bug that is already fixed.

The next step is to carefully check your HDMI connections. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, problems on the input side could actually be due to a cable problem on the output to your display so check both side. Power everything off, get a flashlight, and take a careful look at the HDMI plugs and sockets looking for any signs of pin damage. Check both ends of each cable. If you find a damaged plug, discard that cable and re-check the socket it was plugged into. When you re-insert the HDMI plugs, keep in mind that they are only a friction fit, and that it only takes a little bit of shifting in the socket to make a marginal connection. So make sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, and that they are not being tugged or pushed in any direction -- as for example by the weight of the cable.

You mentioned that you just updated firmware in your Pioneer player. Did the problem in the D2v happen BEFORE you updated that firmware or is it possible the Pioneer firmware update is the cause? Do you have any other HDMI source devices you can use to check this?

In the original D2, the HDMI input function was handled by two chips that each handled two input sockets. Sockets 1 and 2 went to one chip, and sockets 3 and 4 went to another. I don't know how the work is divided up in the D2v, but it is likely there's a similar sort of thing going on. Which means trying a different socket would get you to a different chip. To figure out which socket to try, you'll have to give Anthem tech support a call. If you find things work correctly in one socket but not another (with the cable properly inserted both times), then you have a hardware problem in your D2v.
--Bob

Many thanks Bob - the update did the trick. As always, your advice is spot on. The problem started BEFORE I updated my BD player; I tend to update only if I run into a hitch. How the heck can firmware become corrupted?
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post #23226 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Verbow View Post

Many thanks Bob - the update did the trick. As always, your advice is spot on. The problem started BEFORE I updated my BD player; I tend to update only if I run into a hitch. How the heck can firmware become corrupted?

Good! It's more likely your settings became corrupted and the install and reloading of settings fixed it. But it's hard to really know what went wrong.

Another possibility is that some unusual combination of signals caused the HDMI processor to get stuck in an unusual state.

If the problem happens again, be sure to contact Anthem tech support.
--Bob

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post #23227 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 02:27 PM
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I have a digital source (Squeezebox) connected to my Dv2 that I would like to use outside via Zone 2. The manual says that Zone 2 and etc. only accept analog sources unless you copy from Main. I've got the copy to work.

First question is does Main always need to be on and does Main have to be on the source that I want in Zone 2?

Second question. can I have a digital and analog connection for AUX plugged in at the same time?

I've checked the first post for any tips and tricks on this, but couldn't locate anything. Is there a post that describes the Copy feature? The manual is somewhat lacking. I'm also a little surprised that a pre/pro of this caliber has this limitation.

Thanks for the assistance.

Ken
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post #23228 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by facke02 View Post

I have a digital source (Squeezebox) connected to my Dv2 that I would like to use outside via Zone 2. The manual says that Zone 2 and etc. only accept analog sources unless you copy from Main. I've got the copy to work.

First question is does Main always need to be on and does Main have to be on the source that I want in Zone 2?

Second question. can I have a digital and analog connection for AUX plugged in at the same time?

I've checked the first post for any tips and tricks on this, but couldn't locate anything. Is there a post that describes the Copy feature? The manual is somewhat lacking. I'm also a little surprised that a pre/pro of this caliber has this limitation.

Thanks for the assistance.

First question: Yes. The only way to get analog output from a digital audio source is to process the digital audio. Only the Main path processes the digital audio. The Zone 2 path is an "analog pass-through" path. That's why you need to Copy from Main to Zone 2 when you want to do this. So yes, the Main path has to be on, and with that input source selected. NOTE: It is possible to set Zone 2 so that it's Source selection automatically tracks what you select for Main. Thus you would always make your Source selection using Main, and the analog audio output would also be available on the Zone 2 output.

Second Question: Yes, you can have both digital and analog audio input settings for any given Source and use BOTH on the Main path. The trick is to use Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig ON for that Source. With Auto Dig ON, the specified digital input is used whenever a signal is detected on it. Otherwise the specified analog input is used. See Section 3.6 of the Manual.

Note that when using Auto Dig, the Analog input is ALWAYS "Analog-DSP" -- i.e., "processed" analog audio. "Analog-Direct" pass-through is not available.

ETA: Note that if the Source generates both digital and analog audio simultaneously, and you just want to use the analog version of the input for pass-through to Zone 2, then you don't have to use Auto Dig. For Audio In on the Main path just specify the digital audio source you want to use. Leave Auto Dig OFF. Also specify the Analog input you want associated with this Source. It won't be used for the Main path. But when Zone 2 has this Source selected and audio is NOT being copied from Main, the specified Analog input (unprocessed pass-through) will always be used -- and thus Main can be powered off.

Copying the processed Audio from Main can be set to happen all the time (see Setup > Source Setup in Manual section 3.6) or just now and again -- manually selected via the remote. See Manual section 4.3.

Also keep in mind that with both Main and Zone 2 paths turned on, you have separate volume control for the two of them.
--Bob

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post #23229 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

Hope they use this "red card" in the new 50v?!

Sorry if I caused any confusion here, but nope. This is just the updated version of the old video card (not as what they're including in the v-version now) which is required for the experimental firmware. With the old 1.33 firmware I had crazy problems as described, even with this updated board.

My comment was directed more at the firmware which finally addresses the issues I've been having for the last several years.

When I first flagged my issues to Anthem, Nick said he didn't know when they'd be addressed, but that they were on the list of things to fix. Looks like he wasn't lying.

It took a while, but I'm happy with the results. Outside of Oppo, I'm not aware of any other player in this industry that seems to take the correction of issues like these seriously.

-Ravi
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post #23230 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

First question: Yes. The only way to get analog output from a digital audio source is to process the digital audio. Only the Main path processes the digital audio. The Zone 2 path is an "analog pass-through" path. That's why you need to Copy from Main to Zone 2 when you want to do this. So yes, the Main path has to be on, and with that input source selected. NOTE: It is possible to set Zone 2 so that it's Source selection automatically tracks what you select for Main. Thus you would always make your Source selection using Main, and the analog audio output would also be available on the Zone 2 output.

Second Question: Yes, you can have both digital and analog audio input settings for any given Source. The trick is to use Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig ON for that Source. With Auto Dig ON, the specified digital input is used whenever a signal is detected on it. Otherwise the specified analog input is used. See Section 3.6 of the Manual.

Note that when using Auto Dig, the Analog input is ALWAYS "Analog-DSP" -- i.e., "processed" analog audio. "Analog-Direct" pass-through is not available.
--Bob

Thanks Bob... Sounds like I need to hook up a pair of stereo interconnects to my device for use with Zone 2.

Ken
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post #23231 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by facke02 View Post

Thanks Bob... Sounds like I need to hook up a pair of stereo interconnects to my device for use with Zone 2.

I just added some additional explanation to that post. You might find it helpful to go back up and re-read it.
--Bob

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post #23232 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I just added some additional explanation to that post. You might find it helpful to go back up and re-read it.
--Bob

Thanks... This is exactly what I want, my music server sent to zone 2 while main is off or on TV.

I've read section 3.6 in the manual and have tried it, but it doesn't fit my needs most of the time. I prefer doing it manual.

I did discover that one of my Anthem remotes doesn't do volume on zone 2, where the other one works fine. I've sent an email to support about a fix or replacement.

Ken
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post #23233 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ravichopra View Post

Sorry if I caused any confusion here, but nope. This is just the updated version of the old video card (not as what they're including in the v-version now) which is required for the experimental firmware. With the old 1.33 firmware I had crazy problems as described, even with this updated board.

My comment was directed more at the firmware which finally addresses the issues I've been having for the last several years.

When I first flagged my issues to Anthem, Nick said he didn't know when they'd be addressed, but that they were on the list of things to fix. Looks like he wasn't lying.

It took a while, but I'm happy with the results. Outside of Oppo, I'm not aware of any other player in this industry that seems to take the correction of issues like these seriously.

-Ravi

The new HDMI code for the older Anthems (found in "test" firmware V1.47f) was originally developed for the newer Anthems. It is found in "test" firmware V2.07f for those.

However, to speed development/testing on the older Anthems, the port of this code has initially been done only to newer production run hardware in those older models -- which covers about 2/3 of the units in customer hands according to Nick at Anthem.

You should *NOT* install "test" firmware V1.47f on a D2 or AVM 50 unless you know your hardware is of that newer configuration.

HOW CAN YOU TELL IF YOUR ORIGINAL D2 OR AVM 50 IS OK FOR THIS?

If you can see through the top vents that your video board is colored red (it is the top board, closest to the vents), then you know you have the newer configuration. *OR*

If you can see through the top vents that the power supply does *NOT* have the big toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer, then you also know you have the newer configuration. In either case, you can, if you wish, install "test" firmware V1.47f.

Now, if your video board is gray or green AND your power supply has the toroidal transformer, you *MAY* have the newer configuration. However, there's no easy way for you to tell. So play it safe and do *NOT* install "test" V1.47f in that case. Wait for Anthem to finish the port of the new code to all configurations of the older processors.

-----------------------------------------------

"Test" firmware V2.07f for the new D2v and AMV 50v units comes with an even scarier warning. If the install fails while programming the video board, there may be no recourse but to send your unit back to the factory for special, corrective programming. And so, do *NOT* install "test" firmware V2.07f on ANY D2v or AVM 50v unless (1) you are confident in the functioning of your serial connection -- e.g., you've already done several successful firmware installs -- and (2) you are OK with the potential risk here.

-----------------------------------------------

As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises. However, so far, we've had no posts here of folks finding any new nasties in "test" V1.47f or "test" V2.07f, and we HAVE had posts of bug fix improvements in those "test" versions.
--Bob

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post #23234 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by facke02 View Post

I did discover that one of my Anthem remotes doesn't do volume on zone 2, where the other one works fine. I've sent an email to support about a fix or replacement.

The Anthem remote is actually a kind of complicated little gadget.

And it even has its own Reset procedure!

The Anthem is kind of like 4 different devices in one chassis (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and for some operations REC), and the Remote can be set to operate other devices as well.

First make sure you don't have "Volume Lock" engaged on the remote that's not working. Volume Lock makes the remote send Volume commands to the Main path even when you have told the remote to control some other device (such as TV, or Zone 2). To reset Volume Lock for Zone 2 so that Volume commands will actually be sent to Zone 2, follow the procedure in Manual section 5.4.

If that doesn't do it, then Reset the remote.

To get back to "like new" state, first put in fresh batteries. Then follow the procedure starting with Section 5.6 of the Manual:

First enter the Reset code given there to erase the Learning memory.

Then enter the 5 digit code(s) shown at the start of Appendix B to Reset the operation for any faulty Zones in the Anthem remote. I.e., tell it you want Zone 2 in the remote to reload the Zone 2 command set.

All of this stuff is happening entirely inside the Remote. You don't even need to be in the same room with the Anthem.
--Bob

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post #23235 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post


HOW CAN YOU TELL IF YOUR ORIGINAL D2 OR AVM 50 IS OK FOR THIS?

Now, if your video board is gray or green AND your power supply has the toroidal transformer, you *MAY* have the newer configuration. However, there's no easy way for you to tell. So play it safe and do *NOT* install "test" V1.47f in that case. Wait for Anthem to finish the port of the new code to all configurations of the older processors.

--Bob


Bob

My D2 was updated with the red board when the original board died but my power supply has the toroidal transformer.

Do I have the new confiuration ?

Stew
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post #23236 of 43401 Old 08-23-2009, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Bob

My D2 was updated with the red board when the original board died but my power supply has the toroidal transformer.

Do I have the new confiuration ?

Stew

Yep. If they gave you a red video board as replacement, you are good to go.
--Bob

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post #23237 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verbow
Thanks Bob, but unfortunately something else is going on. I unplugged the power cord for about 20 sec and restarted it. Same problem, but every few seconds the DTS-MA display would come on and the blue light on the left would lock. It would only flash on for half a second and then say "Digital" again, but the fact that it was happening means it's getting the right digital signal.

I'll also add it's not limited to the lossless codecs - I put on a SD Starwars DVD and same issue - it said "digital" with flashes of the Dolby logo and Dolby light going on...

Edit: Just walked out and it was locked to DTS-MA after watching a whole movie (and testing others) where it didn't. Maybe the power cycling helped - need to get to bed so will try more tests tomorrow - but definitely something buggy going on.

OK, the first step is to update your D2v to the "official" V2.07 firmware. This will eliminate any possibility that your current firmware install is corrupted, as well as making sure you aren't being tripped up by some bug that is already fixed.

The next step is to carefully check your HDMI connections. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, problems on the input side could actually be due to a cable problem on the output to your display so check both side. Power everything off, get a flashlight, and take a careful look at the HDMI plugs and sockets looking for any signs of pin damage. Check both ends of each cable. If you find a damaged plug, discard that cable and re-check the socket it was plugged into. When you re-insert the HDMI plugs, keep in mind that they are only a friction fit, and that it only takes a little bit of shifting in the socket to make a marginal connection. So make sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, and that they are not being tugged or pushed in any direction -- as for example by the weight of the cable.

You mentioned that you just updated firmware in your Pioneer player. Did the problem in the D2v happen BEFORE you updated that firmware or is it possible the Pioneer firmware update is the cause? Do you have any other HDMI source devices you can use to check this?

In the original D2, the HDMI input function was handled by two chips that each handled two input sockets. Sockets 1 and 2 went to one chip, and sockets 3 and 4 went to another. I don't know how the work is divided up in the D2v, but it is likely there's a similar sort of thing going on. Which means trying a different socket would get you to a different chip. To figure out which socket to try, you'll have to give Anthem tech support a call. If you find things work correctly in one socket but not another (with the cable properly inserted both times), then you have a hardware problem in your D2v.
--Bob

In case you wonder how the d2v looks on the inside, here is some pictures, after I in collaboration with Anthem (Piero) corrected a slight misaligned mezzanine board for the HDMI ouptput.

erikno
LL
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post #23238 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 01:06 AM
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Another question.

As part of my temporary fix for not having HDMI problems by losing audio on my d2v, when firing up the whole system, I just leave it on all the time. That seems to function quite well. The procedure to get it online if it audio loss do happen, is a no-go in the my family who likes things to happen when they push the button...

This constant power on, will it harm the d2v, or is it just a power consumption issue?

erikno
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post #23239 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The Anthem remote is actually a kind of complicated little gadget.

And it even has its own Reset procedure!

The Anthem is kind of like 4 different devices in one chassis (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and for some operations REC), and the Remote can be set to operate other devices as well.

First make sure you don't have "Volume Lock" engaged on the remote that's not working. Volume Lock makes the remote send Volume commands to the Main path even when you have told the remote to control some other device (such as TV, or Zone 2). To reset Volume Lock for Zone 2 so that Volume commands will actually be sent to Zone 2, follow the procedure in Manual section 5.4.

If that doesn't do it, then Reset the remote.

To get back to "like new" state, first put in fresh batteries. Then follow the procedure starting with Section 5.6 of the Manual:

First enter the Reset code given there to erase the Learning memory.

Then enter the 5 digit code(s) shown at the start of Appendix B to Reset the operation for any faulty Zones in the Anthem remote. I.e., tell it you want Zone 2 in the remote to reload the Zone 2 command set.

All of this stuff is happening entirely inside the Remote. You don't even need to be in the same room with the Anthem.
--Bob

I'll give this a try tonight and report back on the out come. Thanks for all the help...

Ken
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post #23240 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 06:45 AM
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I'm considering to upgrade my system with an Anthem D2v and Anthem P5. After an upgrade, my weak link in the system will be the speakers and especially the center and rear speakers.

Today I have a Tag McLaren AV32R processor, a Tag McLaren DVD32R cd/dvd player and a Tag McLaren 100xR power amplifier. The front speakers are Mirage OM-5 with an active 250W bass amplifier (built-in subwoofer) which sounds quite good (cost approx. $5100 in 2001) and the center is a Mirage OM-C2 (cost approx. $950 in 2001).

I would like to upgrade my speakers at the same time as the Anthem D2v/P5 but I don't have the budget (or space in my flat). My thought is that maybe an interim update to a better center speaker would be a good choice.

BUT, the mantra I keep hearing when reading about center speakers is that they need to be from the same manufacturer and from the same series to be "tonal matched" to the mains. My questions is: is this really true (in all cases) or just a best recommendation? And if it's crucial, would the ARC in the Anthem D2v make any difference? Like artificially matching the tonal quality somehow?

Mirage doesn't make any matching center speaker to my mains any more and the one they have for the newer ranges doesn't fit under my TV (need to be maximum 20 - 23 cm or 8 - 9 inches high).

Any recommendations?

/ Påhl
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post #23241 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I just added some additional explanation to that post. You might find it helpful to go back up and re-read it.
--Bob

Bob,

According to section 4.2 of the D2 manual, I believe that you can use digital out on the two REC coaxial outputs, however I believe that it will only downmix if you do "copy from main" and if you do not do "copy from main" there will be no volume control as it is probably just a digital signal pass through without any processing.

Can you confirm that this is correct.

Thanks in advance

Mike

One good thing about music, when it hits you, you feel no pain.
~Bob Marley~
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post #23242 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by erikno View Post

Another question.

As part of my temporary fix for not having HDMI problems by losing audio on my d2v, when firing up the whole system, I just leave it on all the time. That seems to function quite well. The procedure to get it online if it audio loss do happen, is a no-go in the my family who likes things to happen when they push the button...

This constant power on, will it harm the d2v, or is it just a power consumption issue?

erikno

It is just a power consumption issue.

If you have power glitches in your area, a battery backup would help make sure the processor rides through those as well. I use one made by APC that's sold for use with computers.

If you have your power amps triggered from the D2v, you can change the triggers table to have them on according to which input you have selected in the D2v instead of simply whether or not the D2v itself is on. Have all used inputs leave them on. Then set aside one unused input which has the amps turn off. Switch to that unused input as part of your "shutdown" procedure and the amps will turn off.
--Bob

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post #23243 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefl52 View Post

Bob,

According to section 4.2 of the D2 manual, I believe that you can use digital out on the two REC coaxial outputs, however I believe that it will only downmix if you do "copy from main" and if you do not do "copy from main" there will be no volume control as it is probably just a digital signal pass through without any processing.

Can you confirm that this is correct.

Thanks in advance

Mike

Copying from Main will yield processed audio output on REC, so yes it is down-mixed to 2.0 LPCM (the same as goes out on the HDMI cable to your Main display). The only way to get the down-mix on REC is to copy from Main.

However the digital outputs of any digital input are fixed volume, I believe, even when you copy from Main.

If the input is analog, and you copy from Main to get it converted to 2.0 LPCM for the digital REC outputs, you can adjust the fixed level by adjusting the analog audio input trims in the setup menu. There is no "Volume" control on the REC outputs otherwise.
--Bob

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post #23244 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orup70 View Post

I'm considering to upgrade my system with an Anthem D2v and Anthem P5. After an upgrade, my weak link in the system will be the speakers and especially the center and rear speakers.

Today I have a Tag McLaren AV32R processor, a Tag McLaren DVD32R cd/dvd player and a Tag McLaren 100xR power amplifier. The front speakers are Mirage OM-5 with an active 250W bass amplifier (built-in subwoofer) which sounds quite good (cost approx. $5100 in 2001) and the center is a Mirage OM-C2 (cost approx. $950 in 2001).

I would like to upgrade my speakers at the same time as the Anthem D2v/P5 but I don't have the budget (or space in my flat). My thought is that maybe an interim update to a better center speaker would be a good choice.

BUT, the mantra I keep hearing when reading about center speakers is that they need to be from the same manufacturer and from the same series to be "tonal matched" to the mains. My questions is: is this really true (in all cases) or just a best recommendation? And if it's crucial, would the ARC in the Anthem D2v make any difference? Like artificially matching the tonal quality somehow?

Mirage doesn't make any matching center speaker to my mains any more and the one they have for the newer ranges doesn't fit under my TV (need to be maximum 20 - 23 cm or 8 - 9 inches high).

Any recommendations?

/ Påhl

ARC will go a long way towards matching speakers, but if the speaker responses are too different you will still hear it. Speakers are complicated beasties, with many characteristics beyond just their frequency response. For example, how they disperse sound at different angles and how they respond to transients (rapid changes) in the audio.

It is still best, when setting up a surround system, to get speakers that are tonally matched. But practically speaking, I think you'll be surprised how far ARC can go to help fix some of the differences here.
--Bob

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post #23245 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The Anthem remote is actually a kind of complicated little gadget.

And it even has its own Reset procedure!

The Anthem is kind of like 4 different devices in one chassis (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and for some operations REC), and the Remote can be set to operate other devices as well.

First make sure you don't have "Volume Lock" engaged on the remote that's not working. Volume Lock makes the remote send Volume commands to the Main path even when you have told the remote to control some other device (such as TV, or Zone 2). To reset Volume Lock for Zone 2 so that Volume commands will actually be sent to Zone 2, follow the procedure in Manual section 5.4.

If that doesn't do it, then Reset the remote.

To get back to "like new" state, first put in fresh batteries. Then follow the procedure starting with Section 5.6 of the Manual:

First enter the Reset code given there to erase the Learning memory.

Then enter the 5 digit code(s) shown at the start of Appendix B to Reset the operation for any faulty Zones in the Anthem remote. I.e., tell it you want Zone 2 in the remote to reload the Zone 2 command set.

All of this stuff is happening entirely inside the Remote. You don't even need to be in the same room with the Anthem.
--Bob

Volume lock was the issue... Did a reset and all is well.

Thanks

Ken
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post #23246 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 06:01 PM
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Glad to hear it!
--Bob

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post #23247 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 09:06 PM
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I just moved into a new place with 13 foot ceilings and wood floors. Ran ARC again on my [now old but still beloved] AVM-50 and was curious for some (i.e. Bob's) opinions on how it looks - fixed a lot of the booming and echo problems but wondering if there is more to be done to make it perfect. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
LL
LL
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post #23248 of 43401 Old 08-24-2009, 10:35 PM
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Not sure if this has been answered before..

How do you turn OFF the deep colour on the D2V to the display?

I ask because, on my one hdmi cable (not 1.3 spec), I get the 1080p/60 just fine on the projector, but has little white specs in picture. Projector says its getting 12bit deep colour.

So,

I tried from the source direct (oppo) blu-ray, and turned OFF deep colour, and the specs were now gone..

This seems correct to me as the cable can't handle the extra info..

Thanks..
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post #23249 of 43401 Old 08-25-2009, 12:05 AM
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To the best of my knowledge there is no setting in the D2v which will force it to not use a Deep Color connection if the display says it will accept that.

------------------------------

First of all, you are definitely on the right track. This is a signal problem (the white specks or "sparklies" are a classic symptom), and most likely a cable problem. The way to be sure is to bring the Oppo over close to the projector and hook it up with a normal length (5 to 10 feet) of good quality, 1080p high speed HDMI cable. If you can run 36 bit Deep Color video (12 bits per component) through that shorter cable without sparklies, then it is highly likely the problem is your cable to the projector. You could test that with the D2v as well of course, but it's probably a lot easier to move the Oppo.

The best solution is to upgrade that cable.

If you are using wall plates or other adapters on that HDMI feed, you may find that the wall plate or adapter is the cause of your problems.

-------------------------------------

Until you can do that, you may find there is a setting in the projector that disables Deep Color input. If so, the projector will tell the D2v it doesn't want Deep Color and the D2v will send normal, 24 bit video.

Alternatively, you could send 720p or 1080i to the projector until you can replace the cable. If the projector accepts 1080p/24, then you can use that for Blu-Ray movies. 1080p/24 is actually less bandwidth than 1080i/60 (=1080p/30).

----------------------------------------

Finally, I think you should email Anthem tech support and ask that Deep Color output control (and input control for that matter) be added to the firmware for just such situations as yours.

I've already suggested it to them, but I don't know where it is in their priority list.
--Bob

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post #23250 of 43401 Old 08-25-2009, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hantman View Post

I just moved into a new place with 13 foot ceilings and wood floors. Ran ARC again on my [now old but still beloved] AVM-50 and was curious for some (i.e. Bob's) opinions on how it looks - fixed a lot of the booming and echo problems but wondering if there is more to be done to make it perfect. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

You look in pretty good shape to me. The one thing you should do, however, is try raising the Max EQ Frequency target so that ARC knows it is OK to apply correction above the default limit of 5KHz. Your Measured curves are I think, borderline for whether you can raise it all the way up to 20KHz without problems. But try that first.

What you are looking for is whether this results in more wobbles in the green Calculated curve at the lower frequencies. If so, back off Max EQ Frequency and see if you can find a nice compromise setting that improves the high frequency results without causing significant problems (more than a dB or 2) at the lower frequencies.

You do this by opening your ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Then bring up the Targets window. Raise the Max EQ Frequency parameter, accept that change, which will also dismiss the Targets window, and do a Calculation. When you get a result you like, do an Upload and give it a listen.

If you have a separate Music configuration there's a separate setting for its Max EQ Frequency Target. In the View menu you can select to view the Music charts.

Since you don't have to re-Measure to do any of this, you can run through a whole bunch of trial settings in almost no time until you get one that looks good to you.

Trust your ears on the final result. If it sounds good to you, then it IS good.

-------------------------------------------

Now I take it you have no Center speaker. You might want to consider adding one if you can get a nice one. Movie sound tracks put a lot of emphasis on the Center. Almost all dialog goes there. Now of course your AVM 50 is steering Center channel content to LF and RF so you aren't losing anything, but still, a nice Center speaker will fill things in a little better.
--Bob

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