The Official Yamaha RX-V1700/RX-V2700 Thread - Page 67 - AVS Forum
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post #1981 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 06:59 AM
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docjackson1 ,
Yes my receiver worked right out of the box. However, I did have to go in to the TV menu and change the HDMI audio to HDMI/digital. Also, on your model (If you havent done so already) try disconecting/turning off the power then turn on your receiver (hooked up to the TV via HDMI) set to what ever input you are using for the HDMI cable, then power up your TV.

Mine was very sensitive to this and sometimes would not work at all until this was done. I also had audio problems at times so I attached a second audio cable and changed the menu to HDMI audio - digital. My new one does not have this problem.

And if all else fails I've got to tell you that the 94 series has in my opinion a better video processor and smoother picture than the later models. My 95 has a "wobble" chip and it is not as clear. It only works better at processing action moving across the screen fast. I wish I could have kept my 94. I had mine set up so I could compare HDMI and Component and to me component set at 720 looked better than HDMI or 1080i setting.
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post #1982 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgyenese View Post

Try this...

Open the Lantronix Redirector Configuration utility, make sure you are connecting to a.b.c.d:10001 where a.b.c.d is the IP address of the Lantronix device - that is, make sure the redirector is using port 10001.

Next, click the IP address then click Port Settings. The only item checked in the Port Settings popup should be "Raw Mode". Without Raw Mode checked it will not work right.

Interesting... Raw Mode for me is unchecked (NOT checked), but I connect to the adaptor with no problems. Go figure...

"Theoretically television may be feasible, but I consider it an impossibility, a development which we should waste little time dreaming about." -Lee de Forest, inventor of the cathode ray tube. -1926.
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post #1983 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 163brook View Post

update: I had the av place swap out my 2700, which would blink on and off after some time and some temp, as described several times here, and so far the problem is solved: I left it running a ps3 demo for hours, and played an entire blu-ray disk, etc etc. All via HDMI exactly the same as the other unit, only the unit changed.
It MIGHT be my imagination but I feel the unit isn't as HOT as the last one was. I now wish I'd measured the temp of both units to see if that is a giveaway.

For cooling, as this will be in a passively vented a/v cabinet with IR repeater, I'm going to find the cheapest and smallest mini-fan i can find, something from a 99 cent type store, and plug it into the 2700 aux power out. That way it only runs when its on, and I'll set it to blow air up and out the back, thru the passive vents of the cabinet. I hope it'll be quiet. If that doesn't work out, I'll get an adjustable voltage plug pack, and run a 12volt pc case fan at a lower voltage.

I just shipped out a 6090 which would fail upon warming up to a certain temp. When I tested it dead cold after sitting overnight it would take almost an hour before the video/audio would lose sync over hdmi from the ps3. It would fail much faster if the unit was not dead cold. It would also take about 45-60 miutes before the 6090 would feel warm to the touch. Warm NOT hot. The PS3 runs hot. As long as you have the perscribed distance around the AVR there is no way that overheating should cause this problem. I punched out the whole back panel of my corner a/v cabinet so my 6090 had tons of ventilation. When I talked to Yamaha tech service he of course denied that there was any problem but he did ask if it took an hour to fail? The 1700/2700/6090 are all HDMI 1.2a. Do you think that there is a chance that they all use the same HDMI transmitter chip?
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post #1984 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 08:41 AM
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I think there is more than a chance! I would place good money on the using the same chip! It's not like there's that many HDMI chips out there

Perhaps this one:
http://www.siliconimage.com/products/product.aspx?id=65

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #1985 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 08:48 AM
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I understand that zones 2 and 3 can only output analog sources. I had planned to use zone 2 primarily for 1) ipod, 2) xm radio, 3) internet radio.

Will any/all of these three sources work in zones 2 and 3?

Thanks!
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post #1986 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 09:04 AM
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I am now using a 7 channel external amp with my Yamaha 2700, but the Yammy still feels just as hot w/o any speakers connected to it as it did when it had 7 speakers running off it all day long. Its never shut down or anything but it just seems strange to me it would still be as hot.
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post #1987 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 09:21 AM
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It runs pretty warm at idle. The power transistors are probably conducting even when off, a class AB amp feature I believe. The transformer is pretty big etc.

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #1988 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotak99 View Post

I understand that zones 2 and 3 can only output analog sources. I had planned to use zone 2 primarily for 1) ipod, 2) xm radio, 3) internet radio.

Will any/all of these three sources work in zones 2 and 3?

Thanks!

I saw that somewhere and was concerned too. I use mine for iPod in zone 2. Net radio has worked in zone 2 as well. It might be the video is analog only to zone 2?
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post #1989 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 07:19 PM
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Is Yamaha 2700 HDMI version 1.2a or 1.1 for audio? I read conflicting specs.
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post #1990 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thyname View Post

Is Yamaha 2700 HDMI version 1.2a or 1.1 for audio? I read conflicting specs.

Its 1.2a

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post #1991 of 5364 Old 02-21-2007, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakar80124 View Post

I am now using a 7 channel external amp with my Yamaha 2700, but the Yammy still feels just as hot w/o any speakers connected to it as it did when it had 7 speakers running off it all day long. Its never shut down or anything but it just seems strange to me it would still be as hot.

yeah, that's normal. Both my RX-V1600 and RX-V2600 exhibit the same behavior. They're still moving a significant amount of current.

I would shut the unit OFF when not in use, so it can cool down completely (to be safe). I do the same with my amps.

This is an NAD M25 amp? How do youl like it? (I hear they are very, very, nice)
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post #1992 of 5364 Old 02-22-2007, 12:44 PM
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I LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYBODY KNOW THE AVAILABILITY OF THE OWNER MANUAL (RX-V1700) IN SPANISH?

THANKS AND REGARDS

ALPEG
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post #1993 of 5364 Old 02-22-2007, 09:51 PM
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For rx-v1700...
anyone figure out how to watch one source (video - gamecube/xbox/etc) while listening to another source (audio - cd player)?

thanks. sorry in advance if this is obvious.
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post #1994 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAMA Man View Post

docjackson1 ,
Yes my receiver worked right out of the box. However, I did have to go in to the TV menu and change the HDMI audio to HDMI/digital. Also, on your model (If you havent done so already) try disconecting/turning off the power then turn on your receiver (hooked up to the TV via HDMI) set to what ever input you are using for the HDMI cable, then power up your TV.

Mine was very sensitive to this and sometimes would not work at all until this was done. I also had audio problems at times so I attached a second audio cable and changed the menu to HDMI audio - digital. My new one does not have this problem.

And if all else fails I've got to tell you that the 94 series has in my opinion a better video processor and smoother picture than the later models. My 95 has a "wobble" chip and it is not as clear. It only works better at processing action moving across the screen fast. I wish I could have kept my 94. I had mine set up so I could compare HDMI and Component and to me component set at 720 looked better than HDMI or 1080i setting.

the installer came over, and after 4 hours of unsuccesfully trying to hook it up via hdmi connection, he hooked it up to the hi def box/dvr, dvd player, vcr, tosshiba tv via mostly component connections-he might have split the audio out of the cable box/dvr. it looks and sounds okay, but i think that the way my 2700 is connected is taking away some of the capabilities of the 2700, almost making it into a 1700 (no video hdmi upswitching). his explanation is that my two year old toshiba tv is unable to play ball with the much more advanced 2700, hence the component hookup is necessary. the only new suggestion that i just got thru yamaha via email was something about going into the advanced setup menu and selecting monitor off. what do you guys think about this hookup? i don't want to buy a new $3000 tv, but he tells me that if i had a 1080p tv, then the hdmi hookups would be a breeze, and the 2700 could strut it's stuff-he says that my toshiba 720i/1080i with the earlier hdmi restricts the 2700-what do you think? it sounds like i should have purchased a less expensive/capable avr in the first place, that didn't have so much 1080p capabilities-of course, the salesman said that it would work with my toshiba set.
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post #1995 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docjackson1 View Post

the installer came over, and after 4 hours of unsuccesfully trying to hook it up via hdmi connection, he hooked it up to the hi def box/dvr, dvd player, vcr, tosshiba tv via mostly component connections-he might have split the audio out of the cable box/dvr. it looks and sounds okay, but i think that the way my 2700 is connected is taking away some of the capabilities of the 2700, almost making it into a 1700 (no video hdmi upswitching). his explanation is that my two year old toshiba tv is unable to play ball with the much more advanced 2700, hence the component hookup is necessary. the only new suggestion that i just got thru yamaha via email was something about going into the advanced setup menu and selecting monitor off. what do you guys think about this hookup? i don't want to buy a new $3000 tv, but he tells me that if i had a 1080p tv, then the hdmi hookups would be a breeze, and the 2700 could strut it's stuff-he says that my toshiba 720i/1080i with the earlier hdmi restricts the 2700-what do you think? it sounds like i should have purchased a less expensive/capable avr in the first place, that didn't have so much 1080p capabilities-of course, the salesman said that it would work with my toshiba set.

You dont need a 1080 display. A standard HD display (720p/1080i) will work perfectly and its not goner cost much since the price of LCD has drop significantly. My sharp 32" is working well together with the 2700.

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post #1996 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 08:52 AM
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Sounds like a classic case of HDCP kicking in then. See, Copy Protection hasn't protected anyone in this case, it's only caused you to have to considering flopping down $3000 more dollars just because the son-of-a-bitch RIAA and MPAA wants to put Copy Protection on everything we own. Until the shafted consumers get together and fight this, they will continue to cause products to be incompatible with newer products just because of Copy Protection not playing nice with each other.
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post #1997 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 08:59 AM
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Doc,
Your TV is a 720P that will upscale to 1080i. It cannot receive a 1080p signal even if you had something that would send 1080p to your TV...which you dont.

Second you should be using a digital audio cable either a optical or digital coax and there should be not need to split it from the HD/dvr. Even if your TV cant accept a new HDMI it should be able to receive the digital audio from the DVD and DVR and receiver.

Make sure your DVR, DVD, TV, are all set to Dolby Digital and not PCM. Set your receivers audio to auto.

You should get great sound where I think this receiver shines. I have my DVD player hooked to my receiver with a component cable and digital coax and it looks good. I dont see any difference from the receiver upscaling over what my TV was doing when directly hooked (component) to the DVD. I think the Tosh does a pretty good job of upconverting.

I also hooked up my hd/dvr with a component and compared it to my HDMI hook up and there was no noticable difference. Check on the "Official Tosh DLP HM/HMX owners thread" on this Forum and see if someone else was able to find a HDMI switcher that worked.
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post #1998 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docjackson1 View Post

the installer came over, and after 4 hours of unsuccesfully trying to hook it up via hdmi connection, he hooked it up to the hi def box/dvr, dvd player, vcr, tosshiba tv via mostly component connections-he might have split the audio out of the cable box/dvr. it looks and sounds okay, but i think that the way my 2700 is connected is taking away some of the capabilities of the 2700, almost making it into a 1700 (no video hdmi upswitching). his explanation is that my two year old toshiba tv is unable to play ball with the much more advanced 2700, hence the component hookup is necessary. the only new suggestion that i just got thru yamaha via email was something about going into the advanced setup menu and selecting monitor off. what do you guys think about this hookup? i don't want to buy a new $3000 tv, but he tells me that if i had a 1080p tv, then the hdmi hookups would be a breeze, and the 2700 could strut it's stuff-he says that my toshiba 720i/1080i with the earlier hdmi restricts the 2700-what do you think? it sounds like i should have purchased a less expensive/capable avr in the first place, that didn't have so much 1080p capabilities-of course, the salesman said that it would work with my toshiba set.

You should first check to see if your TV is HDCP compliant-- if it has HDMI input then it should be. My 3 year old TV doesn't even have HDMI input-- it has DVI but it is HDCP compliant. However, if you have a lame HD DVR then you are at the mercy of the vendor (Scientific Atlanta, Motorola, etc) and your cable company for releasing firmware updates that fix known HDCP repeater issues. Your cable company is probably brain dead when it comes to HDCP so don't expect them to be of much help. If it is an HDCP issue, splurge and get a Tivo S3 it works perfectly out of the box (unfortunately, you may be at the mercy of your cable company being able to install the cablecards that it requires-- I lucked at since the installer had actually done several other Tivo installations).

My Scientific Atlanta HD DVR had HDCP repeater issues in addition to 50 other annoying bugs & problems. I couldn't get rid of it fast enough... I replaced it with a Tivo S3 and couldn't be happier. The picture is significantly better than the Sci Atlanta box (pixelated images during fast moving action are gone) and I can actually use the Tivo's HDMI out, imagine that plus Tivo's interface is first rate.

If your TV is not HDCP compliant, check with the manufacturer to see if they have an updated firmware that enables it. If you intend to use HiDef devices you will ultimately need an HDCP compliant TV to get the most out of the experience.
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post #1999 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subatomic View Post

For rx-v1700...
anyone figure out how to watch one source (video - gamecube/xbox/etc) while listening to another source (audio - cd player)?

thanks. sorry in advance if this is obvious.

On the 2700, the procedure for watching a video source while listening to an audio source is, as I recall, simply selecting the video source first on the remote, then selecting the audio source on the remote. I would imagine that the 1700 has the same procedure.

I've only done this once, and then just to test it out, when I first hooked up the receiver, to see if it worked (and it did).

Then you're trapped in your lovely nest, and the things you used to own, now they own you.
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post #2000 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junior LA View Post

On the 2700, the procedure for watching a video source while listening to an audio source is, as I recall, simply selecting the video source first on the remote, then selecting the audio source on the remote. I would imagine that the 1700 has the same procedure.

I've only done this once, and then just to test it out, when I first hooked up the receiver, to see if it worked (and it did).

I suppose that wouldn't work if my audio source is my DVD player, Tivo, or Xbox360...

I have no "pure" audio source in my system. Every audio source I have also has video...

:-(


oh well... you'd think for $1100 they'd get these little details..
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post #2001 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 12:40 PM
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Gene, over at audioholics, says his review of the 2700 should go live mid next week.

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #2002 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docjackson1 View Post

when you say selected cbl/sat, you mean did i plug the hdmi int position 3 of the hdmi in? and did i push the cbl/sat button on the remote-yes. is there more that i should do to select it?

One of the 2700's best features is also one of its most confusing. Input Selection and Configuration is actually a multi-step mapping process but has defaults that support most common uses.

Each main user input selection like "DTV", DVD", or "Cab/Sat" can be configured through the on-screen menu interface to use one, several, or none of the numbered rear panel I/O jacks (HDMI, Component, Optical, etc).

For example, the main input selection of "Cab/Sat", by default, is set to use the rear HDMI port "Inp 3" which, as the default, is so labelled on the chassis as "Cab/Sat". However, it could b use for any HDMI input need. It can also be set to NONE meaning "do not look for an HDMI input".

There are several confusing aspect to the mapping process:
  • The rear chassis device labels (like "Cab/Sat") printed along side the numbered or lettered port (like "Inp 3" or "Inp A") are only suggestions and not mandatory. It is the numbered/lettered labels (like HDMI Inp 3) that are important and remain unique regardless of how the I/O ports are mapped.
  • Each main selected input has separate mappings for each of the supported connection types such as HDMI, Component, Optical, etc. Thus, a single main input selection can be mapped to its default HDMI I/O port while also being mapped to a component I/O port default-labelled on the chassis as being for a different device.
  • The mapping of main input selections is really to the numbered/lettered ports, not the labels on the rear chassis. For example, by default, the HDMI port for "Cab/Sat" maps to "HDMI Inp 3" which, only as a OEM suggestion, is labelled on the rear chassis as "Cab/Sat" but could, just as well, accept any other HDMI input.
  • Also confusing (at first) is that the on-screen input configuration menu lists the selected rear ports using their unique port number (good) but also lists them with their currently assigned main input selection which cnages as you reconfigure.
For example, if you are configuring main input "Cab/Sat" and set its HDMI input to use "HDMI Inp 1" (labelled "DTV" on the rear chassis) then the configuration menu thereafter lists HDMI Inp 1 as "Cab/Sat". What really confused me, at first, was that I thought the port names shown in the available port list were fixed and matched the rear panel device labels. THEY ARE NOT! The device names in the port list for a given I/O type of a given main input selection are simply their current mapping and will change as soon as you reassign the port. So, only go by the actual port number/letter when figuring out what goes where. To whip a dead horse, if you select "HDMI Inp 1" for your main "Cab/Sat" input, then the HDMI port list for Cab/Sat will then list "HDMI Inp 1" as "Cab/Sat", rather than its OEM default of "DTV".

Once you get past the confusion, the benefit is that when mapping ports to a given main input selection, the menu shows you how the physically numbered ports are currently mapped as an aid to determine how you might re-assign them as needed.

Unfortunately, since all main inputs selections are default mapped to their suggested default rear chassis ports and the receiver cannot tell which are physically and truly being used, it takes a bit of patience to review your input configuration to ensure it hasn't been inadvertantly mangled.

One rule of thumb that helps me better understand and configure my I/O port mapping is to simply ignore the "device" labels on the read chassis like "DTV", "Cab/Sat", or "DVD". Instead, focus only on the letter/number label of the port such as "HDMI Inp 1/2/3", etc, because they NEVER change and always refer to the same physical port on the rear chassis. Some of the ports of other connection types are labeled using letters, "A/B/C".

Because the usage of the ports changes as soon as you do a re-assignment, the chassis labels are ONLY valid if you NEVER re-assign a port. As soon as you do, they are invalid because the chassis labels are just that - fixed printed labels that can't change to reflect your reassignmenrt. .

I am contemplating setting all unused port mappings of main input selections to "NONE" to make the review process easier. That would also eliminate the problem of dealing with multiple connections such as when you have both HDMI and Component cables connected at the same time. To ensure one is used over the other, set the port of the unwanted type to "NONE" rather than depend on the reciever selecting one by whatever priority it might use.

So, to verify one's current input selection port assignments to ensure that all is set as needed, let's use an example HDMI connected Cab/Sat box by doing the following:
  • Inspect HDMI connection between Receiver & Cab/Sat box
  • Check which HDMI Inp is used on the Receiver. Def = "Inp 3".
  • Invoke receiver's on-screen configuration menu
  • Select "Input Selection"
  • Select "Cab/Sat"
  • Select "I/O Assignment"
  • Select "HDMI"
  • Ensure it shows "Inp #" where "#" is the port being used on the rear chassis.
  • Then review all the other input types for Cab/Sat such as Component, Optical, Coaxial, etc. Although not necessary, if you are not using other input ports for Cab/Sat you could set them to "None" to better reflect the reality of your physical connections. That also makes it easier, in the future, to identify unused ports and also eliminates any confusion as to which port the receiver will end up using. When all are set to defaults, you can't be sure.

It took me several weeks of head scratching to get a feel for how it all works and, in the process, doscivered I had some bad assignments that mysteriously made certain inputs appear as dead. The manual really doesn't cover this stuff very well.

The unknown, once learned, is usually obvious :-)
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post #2003 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 12:53 PM
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Wow XOR42, great post! Thanks for the details. I just got the Yamaha 6090 and will be digging in tonight. Anyone know if the assignability of these ports works similarly in the 6090
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post #2004 of 5364 Old 02-23-2007, 08:12 PM
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thank you all for taking the time to try and help me. yes, the toshiba tv is hdcp compliant. theoretically, the 2700 should have no problem talking to the tv. we also tried to use the best quality hdmi cables-no luck. i emailed yamaha, and they just sent me a response telling me to go to the advanced setup page, and to set the monitor check option to skip. they think that this might help. i will try it to see what happens. whether it will work or not, who knows. if it doesn't, i think that the poster who noted that the industry creates problems with their hdcp issues is correct. i have purchased 2 items with hdmi connectors-they should be able to work with one another. if i can't get the hdmi output to transmit from the 2700 to the tv, will i be able to hook up a blue ray by attaching it to the hdmi input of the 2700 and sending the picture to my tv through component from the 2700? my dvr/cable goes to the tv via component from the 2700, but also comes into the 2700 via component.
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post #2005 of 5364 Old 02-24-2007, 06:08 AM
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Hi there !

I just picked up the RX-V2700 here in Australia and the amp is a fine beastie. It is replacing a RX-V2090+DDP-1 combo. Hdmi to a Panasonic TH50PX600A is running perfect with upscaling all dandy. The snag I am having is getting a record out by s-video/analogue audio from a component (vid) optical (toslink) input.

The component/optical input is from a pace420 satbox via scart to component and 3.5mm optical to toslink. These go to cbl/sat component in and optical in, no dramas works perfectly, scales etc. I am trying to connect it to a pioneer 510h hdd recorder. The pace has another scart out but since the pace is set to output component, a scart to svideo connector only gives a messy black and white to either the amp or directly to the recorder. The hdd recorder only has svideo or composite in, so svideo would obviously be preferable.

Connecting the amp rec output from vid1 to the recorder and setting the record out (hopefully) correctly doesnt yield any output in video or audio. When an analogue sound is poked into the cbl/sat connections, that gets recorded but still no video via svideo.

Since the amp scales/passes through from basically anything to anything I must be missing something why the (effective) component/optical input isn't been passed out to the svideo/analogue rec out to the recorder.

I hope that was as clear as mud ! Any pointers for the newbie are appreciated.
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post #2006 of 5364 Old 02-24-2007, 07:15 AM
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i have had the 2700 for one week. it is definitely a love, hate thing.
i mean hate!!
it sounds so good. i think it is as good sonicaly as the bk ref 50 pre/pro i once used. the 2700 is definitely better than the denon 4806 it replaced. after 2 years with the denon i'm now once again pleased and amazed with how my theater sounds.
my problem has been connectivity. i bought the yamaha 2700 for connectivity in the hd era. the awesome sound was a bonus!!
hdmi connections have worked great with my toshiba xa2. however, no matter how much i've fiddled with the 2700 it won't work with my ps3 or my charter cable hd moxi dvr box( they worked fine before) its as though those components don't exist on hdmi.
so after trying everything several times over the past week i've decided, "what the hell, this thing ain't no fun."
something like this should simply be plug and play. XOR42 i appreciate your post with all of the info. but the fact is yamaha is turning these things out with poor quality control or at best poor implimentation of intuiveness. whatever, they don't work. you got a good one. me and some others got ones that just don't work.
mine is going back for a replacement. if that don't work i'm just out of a bunch of money and time.

bad yamaha, bad!!
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post #2007 of 5364 Old 02-24-2007, 07:15 AM
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Quick question for you guys:

I have my H-20 DTV receiver running through a Yamaha V-1700 (connected w/ componant and optical) and then HDMI out to my 46" Sharp. For some reason, although the picture looks OK, it appears pixelated. Hard to explain. I can just see artifacts all over the place. My DTV box running directly through S-Video to my 37" Philips LCD upstairs is almost HD quality. Any ideas why I'm not getting a sharper picture on the 46" Sharp? Could it be the connection? I guess I could try connecting directly to the TV and bypassing the V-1700 to see if that helps. Thanks in advance for any input.
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post #2008 of 5364 Old 02-24-2007, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docjackson1 View Post

... if i can't get the hdmi output to transmit from the 2700 to the tv, will i be able to hook up a blue ray by attaching it to the hdmi input of the 2700 and sending the picture to my tv through component from the 2700? my dvr/cable goes to the tv via component from the 2700, but also comes into the 2700 via component.

Doc,
I didnt have enough HDMI cables at first so I tried that (DVR-HDMI-Receiver-comp.-TV) and I couldnt get it work, but I didnt push the issue either. I just waited for the new HDMI cables to come in. Honestly though if I was in your situation I would do the following:

1.) Call Tosh service and tell them the problem and ask if they have a firmware update or something they can do...put it on them first.

2.) If that didnt work I would hook my Blue Ray via HDMI directly to the TV with a seperate digital optical cable from the BR to the receiver. That way your video is got a uncompressed shot to the TV and you'll have digital audio going to the receiver and then to the speakers.

And please forgive me after looking at page 19 of my older TV manual I noticed that it states the following and is the opposite of what I told you earlier. I had forgotten since I havent had to do it that way in 2 years.

NOTE: To ensure that the HDMI or DVI device is reset properly, it is recommended that you follow these procedures:

When turning on your electronic components, turn on the TV first, and then the HDMI or DVI device.][/list]When turning off your electronic components, turn off the HDMI or DVI device first, and then the TV
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post #2009 of 5364 Old 02-24-2007, 03:50 PM
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Just got my Yamaha 1700. Gosh the manual is so thick & looks intimidating. Hopefully, I Can complete my setup today & enjoy the new listening!

Enjoying High Definition Movies in Lossless Audio! Awesome Xperience!
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post #2010 of 5364 Old 02-24-2007, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchin2 View Post

Gosh the manual is so thick & looks intimidating.

just try to understand AUTO SETUP procedure, as well as how to go into MANUAL SETUP and tweak things as necessary (pages 32 - 36, and 86 - 100 respectively).
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