The "Official" Yamaha RX-V659 / HTR-5960 Thread! - Page 12 - AVS Forum
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post #331 of 788 Old 02-18-2007, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by robg73 View Post

are u sure about that just asking cuz have not seen it in print but if u r then thnx! u just made my decision more difficult! haha jk

Someone emailed Yamaha about this on a previous post and they replied/confirmed they both do.
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post #332 of 788 Old 02-18-2007, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnla View Post

Even if they both did not use the same DAC's, you very likely could not even tell any difference between them in the way they sound just because of the DAC's they use. And probably more so when you are talking about something where both of them are sold at street prices in the $300-$450 range.

I agree. Nobody including myself would hear the difference between Burr-Browns or another high quality DAC. Burr-Brown IS top notch and is included in the 5960 as per Yamaha tech support.

A lot of people are a bit confused about the DAC, which in nothing but a signal converter from Analog to Digital and back again and the DSP which is the "effects" most people will hear. Unless the DAC/ADC converter is broken, you would never know it's there
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post #333 of 788 Old 02-18-2007, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainCatcer View Post

I've had the HTR-5960 for over six months now and really enjoy it. I recently added a sub to my setup and started playing around with the crossover settings for music listening. I found that while the sub output matches the crossover setting, the mains output remains unchanged! The crossover setting has no effect on the mains signal. My mains reach down to 35 Hz, but their bass output can get muddy at higher volumes. I would like my sub to completely take over at 60 or 80 Hz and not have any "doubling up" of bass with the mains. Here are my settings:

Mode: 2 Channel Stereo
Front: Small
Crossover: 60 or 80
LFE out: Sub

There is no sub output if I set my mains to large or listen in Pure Direct mode.

Any advice?

PD Mode is just that, straight wire with gain, mains only. I normally listen to music in 2.1 Stereo mode, EQ only no sound fields. If you can use the Sub in Pure Direct, I missed it.

If your fronts are set small and the Sub is crossed to 80hz then all should be good unless you have BOTH selected (LFE) in set ups. The manual has left me scratching my head more than once, hope this helped.
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post #334 of 788 Old 02-18-2007, 12:51 PM
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Hi,

Does anybody know if the EQ-settings that are being set automatically in AUTO SETUP, are also active in STRAIGHT and PURE DIRECT mode?

Another question: I don't use a sub, and my fronts are Tannoy R2 (40Hz-20kHz, set as LARGE)
My surround speakers (Mission 731i) are automatically detected as LARGE, although their freq. response starts about 65Hz.....Wouldn't SMALL for the surrounds be better?

Thanks, Folkert/NL
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post #335 of 788 Old 02-18-2007, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slidell View Post

PD Mode is just that, straight wire with gain, mains only. I normally listen to music in 2.1 Stereo mode, EQ only no sound fields. If you can use the Sub in Pure Direct, I missed it.

If your fronts are set small and the Sub is crossed to 80hz then all should be good unless you have BOTH selected (LFE) in set ups. The manual has left me scratching my head more than once, hope this helped.

I thought selecting LFE/BASS OUT to sub and front to small would do it (send no low frequnecy to front), but it doesn't. Instead the fronts still gets the full signal, while the sub gets the low pass. Yeah, the sub gets no signal in PD regardless of front/LFE settings.
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post #336 of 788 Old 02-18-2007, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainCatcer View Post

I thought selecting LFE/BASS OUT to sub and front to small would do it (send no low frequnecy to front), but it doesn't. Instead the fronts still gets the full signal, while the sub gets the low pass. Yeah, the sub gets no signal in PD regardless of front/LFE settings.

There's something wrong here. When mine are set to small, 80hz or whatever set, and below is sent to the sub. You did set your sub cross over right? I only get full range on mains when fronts set to large.

Shut off your sub and set cross over to 200hz with mains set to small, any difference?
Anything below 200hz should be sent to sub with high pass at 200hz and above to mains.

If not then check to see if the LFE/BASS OUT is set to front. This overrides the small/large settings.
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post #337 of 788 Old 02-18-2007, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Slidell View Post

There's something wrong here. When mine are set to small, 80hz or whatever set, and below is sent to the sub. You did set your sub cross over right? I only get full range on mains when fronts set to large.

Shut off your sub and set cross over to 200hz with mains set to small, any difference?
Anything below 200hz should be sent to sub with high pass at 200hz and above to mains.

If not then check to see if the LFE/BASS OUT is set to front. This overrides the small/large settings.

Thanks for the response. The mains still get the full signal when the crossover is at 200 Hz. I see no difference in the mains output. Did you test by ear or have you done any measurements? I use a mic and Room EQ Wizard for my measurements.
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post #338 of 788 Old 02-19-2007, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainCatcer View Post

Thanks for the response. The mains still get the full signal when the crossover is at 200 Hz. I see no difference in the mains output. Did you test by ear or have you done any measurements? I use a mic and Room EQ Wizard for my measurements.

I'll be back state side in 10 days to recheck as I have a new BFD in the mail. As I remember it did work as stated as in the manual, pg. 88.

I would contact Yamaha tech via e-mail. You will get a response in two to three days.

There is definitely a problem if the receiver cannot set the high pass? You might do a param reset to see if anything is stuck.


Can anyone else verify the high pass to the mains?
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post #339 of 788 Old 02-19-2007, 02:43 PM
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I've emailed Yamaha support and will post their reply when I get it.
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post #340 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 04:44 AM
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does anyone know if this receiver htr 5960 has assignable amps? for instance in a two channel set up can i biwire my speakers and send 100x2w to each speaker?
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post #341 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robg73 View Post

does anyone know if this receiver htr 5960 has assignable amps? for instance in a two channel set up can i biwire my speakers and send 100x2w to each speaker?

No assignable amps on the 5960. You must mean bi-amp not bi-wire. You can bi-wire this amp depending on speakers. You can add a second external amp, via pre-outs, to any channel if this helps. I'm using external amps for the mains and center channels.

This would be a good feature if you plan to stay 5.1 and the assignable amps on the RX-V659 work as you plan.
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post #342 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 06:35 AM
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Looking for a quick answer. I have 4 ohm rear surround 's and I am wondering what i should set the receiver at to run all my speakers. My fronts and center are 8 Ohm JBL's. The rears are my old Panasonic, i thought I would hook em up for a try. I have it set to 6 Ohms right now . But there are alot of diffrent opinons at what to run the amp at 6,or 8? Anyone ?
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post #343 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 09:02 AM
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HDTV component through 5960 to projector looks outstanding.

One question (not sure which forum to ask): I see a very very faint thin horizontal line that moves slowly from bottom to top when watching cable tv. I have a feeling it might be something related to signal interference/dirty power, but I'm not sure and I don't just want to go out and drop $100 on a 'clean power' strip when I don't need it.

Any thoughts? Thanks...
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post #344 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jpomp View Post

HDTV component through 5960 to projector looks outstanding.

One question (not sure which forum to ask): I see a very very faint thin horizontal line that moves slowly from bottom to top when watching cable tv. I have a feeling it might be something related to signal interference/dirty power, but I'm not sure and I don't just want to go out and drop $100 on a 'clean power' strip when I don't need it.

Any thoughts? Thanks...

Try plugging both into same power strip if possible. You might be seeing the 120 degree phasing difference between two different branch feed outlets. Also you might want to be 100% sure the noise is not visible from direct feed to TV.
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post #345 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 01:19 PM
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Looking for a quick answer. I have 4 ohm rear surround 's and I am wondering what i should set the receiver at to run all my speakers. My fronts and center are 8 Ohm JBL's. The rears are my old Panasonic, i thought I would hook em up for a try. I have it set to 6 Ohms right now . But there are alot of diffrent opinons at what to run the amp at 6,or 8? Anyone ?

I use 8 Ohm fronts (Tannoy R2), and 6 Ohm surrounds (Mission 731i). Receiver set to 8 Ohms. No problems observed yet, at least upto -10dB.
The worst that could happen is that the protection circuit kicks in, nothing to worry about.

YMMV, FastFolkert
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post #346 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 03:34 PM
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Ok , I Used the YPAO for an Auto setup and I get a warning mesage, W1. It says my LF speaker is out of phase...... I am assuming they mean the polarity is backwards. so i switch the wires on the speaker. i run another Auto ssetup and now I get warning W1 again. It now says RF speaker out of phase...... so I switch this one too. Now i get no warning and setup is good. But......... i am reading and the manual says that even though the speakers are hooked up CORRECTLY , you still may get a warning message W1. Can somone exlplain this one to me? Or am I just missing something?
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post #347 of 788 Old 02-20-2007, 08:27 PM
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I have 8 ohm front, side, rear, and presence. My center is 2-8 ohms in series (making it 4 ohm). My receiver is set to 8 ohm. I have set volume as high as +10 with no problems.

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post #348 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay-Stew View Post

Ok , I Used the YPAO for an Auto setup and I get a warning mesage, W1. It says my LF speaker is out of phase...... I am assuming they mean the polarity is backwards. so i switch the wires on the speaker. i run another Auto ssetup and now I get warning W1 again. It now says RF speaker out of phase...... so I switch this one too. Now i get no warning and setup is good. But......... i am reading and the manual says that even though the speakers are hooked up CORRECTLY , you still may get a warning message W1. Can somone exlplain this one to me? Or am I just missing something?

YPAO is not perfect. If you are running a sub, try both positions and go for the loudest bass if you hear it. If your not running a sub, YPAO may be deciding the phase simply on loudest base output, guessing here. You might e-mail Yamaha tech to get them to clarify for you.

Depending on which center speaker I run, mine has me reverse phase my sub, go figure. A RS sound level meter can help here if you can't hear any difference.
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post #349 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho dad View Post

I have 8 ohm front, side, rear, and presence. My center is 2-8 ohms in series (making it 4 ohm). My receiver is set to 8 ohm. I have set volume as high as +10 with no problems.

2-8's in series would be 16ohm, did you mean parallel?

My fronts are 8 and my rears are 4, as per the review I set mine at 8ohm. No problems with overheating or protection shutdowns in the two weeks i abused it

Some speakers may be a problem due to low impedance when actively playing music. They can and will drop lower that the rated impedance depending on frequency.
At any case,IMHO, keep tabs on your receiver temps if you play loudly. If you thermal trip, then play lower volume or swap to 6 or higher impedance speakers.
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post #350 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 11:46 AM
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Great stuff on the crossover issue. I am hoping that i don't run into any snags in my set up.

Mine came today!! I need to get it hooked up now!! I only have an old 5.1 HK speaker set up with a crappy 8" sub, new speakers will be coming too. Still looking at best bang for buck for a 14X22X8 room. 1 sub or 2?
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post #351 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Louis Zerr View Post

Great stuff on the crossover issue. I am hoping that i don't run into any snags in my set up.

Mine came today!! I need to get it hooked up now!! I only have an old 5.1 HK speaker set up with a crappy 8" sub, new speakers will be coming too. Still looking at best bang for buck for a 14X22X8 room. 1 sub or 2?

Welcome! You got what, the RX or HTR? I think you will enjoy the YPAO, let us know if you get issues or not. One issue has been the auto setup setting the Sub X-over to 200hz, as mine did, just reset it manually.

Cheers
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post #352 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis Zerr View Post

Great stuff on the crossover issue. I am hoping that i don't run into any snags in my set up.

Mine came today!! I need to get it hooked up now!! I only have an old 5.1 HK speaker set up with a crappy 8" sub, new speakers will be coming too. Still looking at best bang for buck for a 14X22X8 room. 1 sub or 2?

Congrats on the new receiver. I'd say best bang for your buck is the SVS 5.1 package. It includes one of the best subs in the industry. You can either get the 10" sub or 12" sub package. In that room the 10" would be OK but everyone including me would suggest the 12". I have the SVS 5.1 package and it is absolutely an awesome setup. Upgrading to either the 10" or 12" will blow your crappy 8" out of the water but once again I'd say go with the 12". I spent 2 months researching what kind of setup I wanted and the SVS package was the one I pulled the trigger on and I couldn't be happier. Cheers!

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post #353 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slidell View Post

YPAO is not perfect. If you are running a sub, try both positions and go for the loudest bass if you hear it. If your not running a sub, YPAO may be deciding the phase simply on loudest base output, guessing here. You might e-mail Yamaha tech to get them to clarify for you.

Depending on which center speaker I run, mine has me reverse phase my sub, go figure. A RS sound level meter can help here if you can't here any difference.


Thanks for the help, I just sent an email out to Yamaha. In the meantime I hooked the wires back up correctly and did another YPAO setup. Any more thoughts..................
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post #354 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 05:32 PM
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I just purchased a 5960. My TV only has one HDMI input, and I currently use an HDMI switcher with my Denon upconverting DVD and Motorola STB, so I don't plan to hook up any video source to my receiver, only audio via optical.

Can I run an S-Video cable from the 5960 to the S-video input on my LCD and see the 5960 OSD??

Thanks!!
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post #355 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 07:29 PM
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anyone ever order from Butterfly Photo? they have the 659 for $309!

Yep, I am a newbie, don't listen to me, don't do what I do, just ignore me, but I won't go away.
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post #356 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slidell View Post

Welcome! You got what, the RX or HTR? I think you will enjoy the YPAO, let us know if you get issues or not. One issue has been the auto setup setting the Sub X-over to 200hz, as mine did, just reset it manually.

Cheers

I got the RX on eBay for $327 shipped and insured!!

I did a YPAO set up, i didn't really have time to tinker too much, that will be this weekend. I have the whole house to myself on Saturday to make as much noise as i want! Sounds better than the 8 yr old H/K AVR 100 it replaced, but it better do at least that. I am having a bit of feature overload on this one right now though.
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post #357 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BHP1 View Post

I just purchased a 5960. My TV only has one HDMI input, and I currently use an HDMI switcher with my Denon upconverting DVD and Motorola STB, so I don't plan to hook up any video source to my receiver, only audio via optical.

Can I run an S-Video cable from the 5960 to the S-video input on my LCD and see the 5960 OSD??

Thanks!!


Yes
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post #358 of 788 Old 02-21-2007, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay-Stew View Post

Ok , I Used the YPAO for an Auto setup and I get a warning mesage, W1. It says my LF speaker is out of phase...... I am assuming they mean the polarity is backwards. so i switch the wires on the speaker. i run another Auto ssetup and now I get warning W1 again. It now says RF speaker out of phase...... so I switch this one too. Now i get no warning and setup is good. But......... i am reading and the manual says that even though the speakers are hooked up CORRECTLY , you still may get a warning message W1. Can somone exlplain this one to me? Or am I just missing something?

Jay-Stew,
If that were me, before I reversed ANY speaker connection, I would have meticulously checked the polarity of every connection in my system, particularly those for the LF and RF speakers since I/we obviously tried pretty hard to get that right in the first place, e.g., we hooked up the copper colored wire to red and the tin colored wire to black or white (or used wire with clearly keyed insulation) with consistent interconnection.
But, from what I read, because you reversed both RF and LF wires you clearly had it right in the first place. There seems to have been some glitch in the YPAO setup.

At this point, what I would do is to shut off the receiver and check all of the wiring wire-by-wire and connection-by-connection until you're satisfied that you have it consistent AND CORRECT in which case the speakers have to be in phase. Then turn on the receiver and undo your first Auto setup, or restore all factory settings in the receiver using the menu prompts (see owner's manual) and then repeat the Auto setup.

I've had my HTR-5960 for about 4 weeks and have yet to perform an auto setup because I was satisfied that the 5 speaker sound levels in my room were as even as I would ever want them to be! I just re-checked polarity, etc., using an audio test CD and used manual setup to verify each speaker's assignment (large or small and set the bass crossover frequency) and have let it go at that for the time being. I tend to be a conservative "leave well-enough alone" type...

Ted
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post #359 of 788 Old 02-22-2007, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teds12 View Post

Jay-Stew,
If that were me, before I reversed ANY speaker connection, I would have meticulously checked the polarity of every connection in my system, particularly those for the LF and RF speakers since I/we obviously tried pretty hard to get that right in the first place, e.g., we hooked up the copper colored wire to red and the tin colored wire to black or white (or used wire with clearly keyed insulation) with consistent interconnection.
But, from what I read, because you reversed both RF and LF wires you clearly had it right in the first place. There seems to have been some glitch in the YPAO setup.

At this point, what I would do is to shut off the receiver and check all of the wiring wire-by-wire and connection-by-connection until you're satisfied that you have it consistent AND CORRECT in which case the speakers have to be in phase. Then turn on the receiver and undo your first Auto setup, or restore all factory settings in the receiver using the menu prompts (see owner's manual) and then repeat the Auto setup.

I've had my HTR-5960 for about 4 weeks and have yet to perform an auto setup because I was satisfied that the 5 speaker sound levels in my room were as even as I would ever want them to be! I just re-checked polarity, etc., using an audio test CD and used manual setup to verify each speaker's assignment (large or small and set the bass crossover frequency) and have let it go at that for the time being. I tend to be a conservative "leave well-enough alone" type...

Ted

I have had the same experience with YPAO indicating front speaker polarity switch and I knew it was a wrong indication because I checked and double-checked the wiring. What I found was that with the sub connected I got the warning but without it connected I got no warning. The problem with getting the warning is that YPAO appears to never finish even though the OSD looks like it does (crap software!). I was able to get it to work by reducing the gain on my sub. It almost indicates that the sub is causing some room resonances that may be affecting the process.
So far I am pleased with my receiver except for the quality of the software - It would be nice if they could (and would) update the software somehow. The menus really suck.
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post #360 of 788 Old 02-22-2007, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtp99red View Post

I have had the same experience with YPAO indicating front speaker polarity switch and I knew it was a wrong indication because I checked and double-checked the wiring. What I found was that with the sub connected I got the warning but without it connected I got no warning. The problem with getting the warning is that YPAO appears to never finish even though the OSD looks like it does (crap software!). I was able to get it to work by reducing the gain on my sub. It almost indicates that the sub is causing some room resonances that may be affecting the process.
So far I am pleased with my receiver except for the quality of the software - It would be nice if they could (and would) update the software somehow. The menus really suck.


I don't have a sub connected yet thats what is baffling me. I checked the wiring yesterday when I put my new banana plugs on. Everything looked good. I can check it again though.....I am just tired of pulling the thing in and out all the time. Its a looooooooong shot but I am using Monster THX wire and does a certain side of wire need to be a certain polarity. I aslo sent Yamaha a help request , I will wait to see what they think. And yes i think the receiver is an excellent piece of equipment. I really like the sound out if it. I can't wait to get a sub on it. I just need to decide what I need . I would like to spend no more than $500 though. Ahhhhhhhhh Yamaha just replied to me I 'll go check now.
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