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post #13321 of 17196 Old 12-02-2011, 02:01 PM
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That's wonderful!
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post #13322 of 17196 Old 12-02-2011, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

P.S. forgot to mention for anyone interested, Emo did fix the problem with my XPA-1. Got it back this week and I'm back to enjoying the sweet, sweet sound of my setup.


Max

Cool

Mike

JAZZ IS NOT DEAD IT JUST SMELLS FUNNY ; FRANK ZAPPA
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post #13323 of 17196 Old 12-02-2011, 03:33 PM
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The fact there's no dropout with new firmware is so great !
And with HDMI, I don't lose first seconds of tracks now, except the first song when UMC starts, or if another signal was sent just before (going from 96kHz to 48kHz).
Crossover seems ok.

It's not the same unit that I own now. I'm not even sure I'll need XMC-1...
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post #13324 of 17196 Old 12-02-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

P.S. forgot to mention for anyone interested, Emo did fix the problem with my XPA-1. Got it back this week and I'm back to enjoying the sweet, sweet sound of my setup.


Max

Way to go Max!
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post #13325 of 17196 Old 12-02-2011, 06:14 PM
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I suspect a circuit short within the speaker, while it could be the terminals between components save to given he has the problem everytime the c2 is connected I would say it is a safe bet there's an issue with the internal wiring of the speaker...


I suspect there is a lack of solder within the speaker box, once the c2 warms up something fails causing an issue with the xpa.the amp is getting feedback from the speaker causing amp to do a protect mode shutdown...


good to hear the xpa-1 is working again..
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post #13326 of 17196 Old 12-03-2011, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

I suspect a circuit short within the speaker, while it could be the terminals between components save to given he has the problem everytime the c2 is connected I would say it is a safe bet there's an issue with the internal wiring of the speaker...


I suspect there is a lack of solder within the speaker box, once the c2 warms up something fails causing an issue with the xpa.the amp is getting feedback from the speaker causing amp to do a protect mode shutdown...


good to hear the xpa-1 is working again..

It wouldn't be a "lack of solder," it would be a bad solder joint. When soldering it is important to get the joint hot enough and have contact at the solder joint using just enough solder, not too much.
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post #13327 of 17196 Old 12-03-2011, 06:44 AM
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New XPA-2 update for anyone interested.

Thursday night (12/1) added the new amp to my system which consists of:

Yamaha RX-V3800 AVR (140wpc X 7)
Paradigm Studio Reference 100 V.4 fronts
Studio CC690 V.4 center
Bose 201 surrounds
Cheap optumus 1000 10" (100w) sub

Unpackacking the unit went well and connecting everything was a breeze.

I read the posts on this thread about amps buzzing and tweeters hissing. No buzzing whatsoever from my amp and if I put my ear right up to the tweeter of either the left or right main speakers I can hear a low level hiss or 'white noise'. I don't hear it at the listening seat and only if my ear is right up on the tweeter. The hiss goes away if I turn the AVR off. Amp on, AVR off, no hiss at all.

Sound impressions:

At first, the sound of my system with the amp connected was just ok. The bass sounded a little congested and ill defined and the highs were unimpressive although not necessarily bad.

After running the amp for hours and the more I listen, the more the soundstage is opening up. It sounds bigger, more spread out and the instruments appear to be more defined in their respective places in the soundstage. I'm beginning to hear more spacial cues, more space between performers and the singer's voice sounds more palpable, physical and expressive than I ever acheived with the AVR powering the mains. I hear an improvement in overall dynamics as well as deeper bass notes that are becoming much more defined in pitch and definition than they did right out of the box.

So far the XPA-2 is already benefitting my system in the above ways, I hope it continues to 'break in' and further improves all of the above. Time will tell.
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post #13328 of 17196 Old 12-03-2011, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post


It wouldn't be a "lack of solder," it would be a bad solder joint. When soldering it is important to get the joint hot enough and have contact at the solder joint using just enough solder, not too much.

I downloaded some test tones and played up to 20khz through the omd-c2 . The amp didn't go into protection mode. If there was something wrong with the speaker would't it have shown up?
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post #13329 of 17196 Old 12-03-2011, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I downloaded some test tones and played up to 20khz through the omd-c2 . The amp didn't go into protection mode. If there was something wrong with the speaker would't it have shown up?

Who knows? Thing is, it can only be the AVR, the amp or the speaker (assuming you wires are good). If you've ruled out the AVR and the amp and the wires, what's left..?
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post #13330 of 17196 Old 12-04-2011, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

If you have a spare wall wart with an output voltage between 5 and 12 volts, and a suitable connector on the end (or make one with your trusty soldering iron and an old trigger lead) - end of tip is positive - just plug the wall wart lead into the amp and the other end into the mains and switch on the power to the wall wart. If it is delivering a 12V input to the amp, and the trigger is working correctly, the amp will power on.

If the trigger isn't working properly and you don't want to have the hassle of returning the amp just for that, you can always power it on with an intelligent power strip - plug the AVR into the master socket of the power strip and the amp into one of the slave sockets and when the AVR powers up, so will the amp. If the wall wart idea above works, you could plug that into the power strip slave socket and the amp into the wall outlet and do it that way.

Emo Tech support got back to me. They asked for me to try a 9 volt battery... It worked. So now I'm really confused (but happy the amp isn't broke). The battery tested out at 8.75 volts, my receiver's trigger is putting out a bit over 11 volts. Could the trigger be that sensitive to the right voltage? At first I was thinking the polarity is backwords but I tried to test that and I think it is right (but maybe I'm thinking backwords lol).

To trigger with the battery I put the cables sleeve on the batteries negative post and the tip on poistive to trigger it on. Doing it the other way does not work. When the cable is plugged into the receiver and I am testing on the other end of the cable if I put the negative (black) voltmeter wire on the sleeve and the positive (red) wire on the tip I get a positive 11.something volts reading. When I reverse the connection I get a negative 11.something reading... So the polarity is correct, right???

If the problem is polarity do they even make a cable like this which reverses polarity?

This seems to be obvious stupid user error, so what am I doing wrong????
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post #13331 of 17196 Old 12-04-2011, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Who knows? Thing is, it can only be the AVR, the amp or the speaker (assuming you wires are good). If you've ruled out the AVR and the amp and the wires, what's left..?

It's definitely the speaker. I just don't know what the problem is or how to fix it. It's not the tweeter. I replaced the tweeter with a know good tweeter from one of my 28s and it didn't fix the issue. I then hooked the omd-28 containing the old tweeter from c2 up as the center channel in my setup and everything played fine. I connected the c2 to the front left channel where the 28 is normally connected and played the scene in stereo. The amp went into protection mode where the c2 was connected.

I took the speaker apart and didn't see anything obvious. I think it's probably some sort of issue with the speakers crossover board. I'll contact a service center tomorrow and see if it's worth trying to get it repaired. I bought it from audiogon so no warranty. I hope I can get it repaired. It's $800 to replace it.
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post #13332 of 17196 Old 12-04-2011, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I took the speaker apart and didn't see anything obvious. I think it's probably some sort of issue with the speakers crossover board. I'll contact a service center tomorrow and see if it's worth trying to get it repaired. I bought it from audiogon so no warranty. I hope I can get it repaired. It's $800 to replace it.

the crossover board should not be that expensive . If you have a local electronics guy near you you could have the crossover tested it might be the high pass cap

Mike

JAZZ IS NOT DEAD IT JUST SMELLS FUNNY ; FRANK ZAPPA
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post #13333 of 17196 Old 12-04-2011, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

the crossover board should not be that expensive . If you have a local electronics guy near you you could have the crossover tested it might be the high pass cap

I live in TN and the nearest authorized mirage service center is in Michigan. I'm looking at $100 just to ship the speaker back and forth. I may just order an omd-c1 from vanns for $350. It's a step down from the c2 but should mix well with my speakers.
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post #13334 of 17196 Old 12-04-2011, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I live in TN and the nearest authorized mirage service center is in Michigan. I'm looking at $100 just to ship the speaker back and forth. I may just order an omd-c1 from vanns for $350. It's a step down from the c2 but should mix well with my speakers.

I would suggest finding a reputable A/V repair facility in your area to check out the c2. If the warranty is expired why worry about having an authorized Mirage repair facility. It could be a simple repair and you would have the better center speaker instead of spending $350.00 for a lesser one. Just a thought.

Bill

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post #13335 of 17196 Old 12-04-2011, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I live in TN and the nearest authorized mirage service center is in Michigan. I'm looking at $100 just to ship the speaker back and forth. I may just order an omd-c1 from vanns for $350. It's a step down from the c2 but should mix well with my speakers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

I would suggest finding a reputable A/V repair facility in your area to check out the c2. If the warranty is expired why worry about having an authorized Mirage repair facility. It could be a simple repair and you would have the better center speaker instead of spending $350.00 for a lesser one. Just a thought.

Bill

Yeah Bill's right find a local TV repair guy who can test the crossover if it's a bad cap in the crossover they are really inexpensive to replace . Speaker crossovers are quite simple anyway , any one with electronic experience & the test bench that a TV repairman has can fix it easy .

Mike

JAZZ IS NOT DEAD IT JUST SMELLS FUNNY ; FRANK ZAPPA
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post #13336 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

It's definitely the speaker. I just don't know what the problem is or how to fix it. It's not the tweeter. I replaced the tweeter with a know good tweeter from one of my 28s and it didn't fix the issue. I then hooked the omd-28 containing the old tweeter from c2 up as the center channel in my setup and everything played fine. I connected the c2 to the front left channel where the 28 is normally connected and played the scene in stereo. The amp went into protection mode where the c2 was connected.

I took the speaker apart and didn't see anything obvious. I think it's probably some sort of issue with the speakers crossover board. I'll contact a service center tomorrow and see if it's worth trying to get it repaired. I bought it from audiogon so no warranty. I hope I can get it repaired. It's $800 to replace it.

I've come late to the thread but I'd just say I echo what Mike and Bill have to say here. Just get it repaired locally. It seems to be a problem in the crossover, which should be easy to detect and fix - and it would cost you way less than spending $350 on an inferior speaker. Any decent local repair facility should had the equipment to test and fix a crossover component. If you're not comfortable with that, ask the speaker manufacturer to sell you the complete crossover - you can install it yourself or get a friend who is handy with a soldering iron to do it for you. But I definitely wouldn't scrap an otherwise good speaker, or replace it with an inferior one.
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post #13337 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstew100 View Post

Emo Tech support got back to me. They asked for me to try a 9 volt battery... It worked. So now I'm really confused (but happy the amp isn't broke). The battery tested out at 8.75 volts, my receiver's trigger is putting out a bit over 11 volts. Could the trigger be that sensitive to the right voltage? At first I was thinking the polarity is backwords but I tried to test that and I think it is right (but maybe I'm thinking backwords lol).

To trigger with the battery I put the cables sleeve on the batteries negative post and the tip on poistive to trigger it on. Doing it the other way does not work. When the cable is plugged into the receiver and I am testing on the other end of the cable if I put the negative (black) voltmeter wire on the sleeve and the positive (red) wire on the tip I get a positive 11.something volts reading. When I reverse the connection I get a negative 11.something reading... So the polarity is correct, right???

If the problem is polarity do they even make a cable like this which reverses polarity?

This seems to be obvious stupid user error, so what am I doing wrong????

It's unlikely that the 11v from your AVR wouldn't trigger the amp if a 9v battery does. You can easily test the cable polarity simply by either buying another MONO 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable (it needs to be MONO - stereo give unreliable results) or by reversing the polarity on the cable you have. Just cut the wires somewhere along the length and reconnect them reversed. If that fixes it, you are good to go or you can then try to buy a new cable with the same polarity as the test cable you just made.
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post #13338 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I've come late to the thread but I'd just say I echo what Mike and Bill have to say here. Just get it repaired locally. It seems to be a problem in the crossover, which should be easy to detect and fix - and it would cost you way less than spending $350 on an inferior speaker. Any decent local repair facility should had the equipment to test and fix a crossover component. If you're not comfortable with that, ask the speaker manufacturer to sell you the complete crossover - you can install it yourself or get a friend who is handy with a soldering iron to do it for you. But I definitely wouldn't scrap an otherwise good speaker, or replace it with an inferior one.

I called mirage and ordered a new crossover. It was $80. I'm hoping a friend of mine can help me install it. I hope this will fix the c2. I went ahead and ordered a c1 from vanns just in case. They will allow me to return it thru Jan 7th if I get the C2 fixed.

Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you guys posted.
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post #13339 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I called mirage and ordered a new crossover. It was $80. I'm hoping a friend of mine can help me install it. I hope this will fix the c2. I went ahead and ordered a c1 from vanns just in case. They will allow me to return it thru Jan 7th if I get the C2 fixed.

Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you guys posted.

Good stuff. I'm sure you won't have any problems installing the XO. Take some reference photos before you take the old one out, just in case...
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post #13340 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteS View Post

Should be able to do some test over the weekend I think - I've not used REW a great deal - just downloaded it and had a play, but if you'd care to outline the procedure, I'll give it a crack.

Have you had the time to do those tests?

Markus

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post #13341 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 02:14 PM
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I finally got the rca to xlr cables from monoprice. I hooked them up this afternoon and there is no sound. Has anyone else used these cables with an emo amp?
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post #13342 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I finally got the rca to xlr cables from monoprice. I hooked them up this afternoon and there is no sound. Has anyone else used these cables with an emo amp?

Did you switch the input selection switches on the rear panel of the XPA-5 to Balanced?

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post #13343 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post


Did you switch the input selection switches on the rear panel of the XPA-5 to Balanced?

Bill

Yes. I moved the switches to the balanced inputs. Is this correct?
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post #13344 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I finally got the rca to xlr cables from monoprice. I hooked them up this afternoon and there is no sound. Has anyone else used these cables with an emo amp?

Check to see if the RCA on the AVR is 7.1 out and not the 7.1 in jacks. Hope that helps.

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post #13345 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Acuramusic42 View Post


Check to see if the RCA on the AVR is 7.1 out and not the 7.1 in jacks. Hope that helps.

I've checked everything. I think it's just bad cables. I've read of some others getting bad RCA to xlr cables from monoprice. I called monoprice and am getting a refund. I don't néed them anyway since I've isolated the problem to the speaker.
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post #13346 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaucom View Post

I finally got the rca to xlr cables from monoprice. I hooked them up this afternoon and there is no sound. Has anyone else used these cables with an emo amp?

Why are you using those? The offer no advantage over RCA.

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post #13347 of 17196 Old 12-05-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

Why are you using those? The offer no advantage over RCA.

I ordered some today because I have a hiss on my XPA-3 that goes away when I flick the switch to Balanced. Figured it was a cheap experiment.

I have some new, higher sensitivity speakers on the way, so I'm guessing the hiss will only get worse. It's not unbearable, but I can hear it from my LP when nothing is playing. Few bucks on XLR cables isn't a steep price to pay, especially if the alternative is shipping the amp back to Emo from Canada.
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post #13348 of 17196 Old 12-06-2011, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markus767 View Post

Have you had the time to do those tests?

Hi Markus

Nope - will be trying to find the time this week on evening - won't take long, but means messing around with the AV setup, which isn't a popular way to spend the time as far as my wife's concerned

pete S
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post #13349 of 17196 Old 12-06-2011, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VEXXD View Post

I ordered some today because I have a hiss on my XPA-3 that goes away when I flick the switch to Balanced. Figured it was a cheap experiment.

I have some new, higher sensitivity speakers on the way, so I'm guessing the hiss will only get worse. It's not unbearable, but I can hear it from my LP when nothing is playing. Few bucks on XLR cables isn't a steep price to pay, especially if the alternative is shipping the amp back to Emo from Canada.

A single to balance cable isn't anything more then a simple connector change, it will not provide any of the benefits of a balanced signal. If you have long signal runs and feel that a balanced signal would greatly improve your performance you can alway use a transformer on the source end to create a differential signal.
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post #13350 of 17196 Old 12-06-2011, 07:40 AM
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IIRC, there's a switch in the back panel for selecting purposes; i.e., RCA or XLR and only one is active at a time though. Did you switch to XLR by chance??

Regards, Chuck
Hold on tight to your dreams - ELO
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