Rotel Owner's Thread - Page 60 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1771 of 1786 Old 07-20-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by thyname View Post
Hi everyone,

Is there any benefit of upgrading from RB-1582 MKII to RB-1590?

My preamp is also Rotel (RC-1590). Speakers are B&W CM10s.

Thanks!
No "love" for me?
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post #1772 of 1786 Old 07-20-2017, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thyname View Post
Hi everyone,

Is there any benefit of upgrading from RB-1582 MKII to RB-1590?

My preamp is also Rotel (RC-1590). Speakers are B&W CM10s.

Thanks!
Only if you wanted more wattage. Is there a reason you need more than you have now? 200w per channel is PLENTY already!

Theater: Sony 45es, 120 inch 16:9 screen, Panny BDT500, Rotel RMB-1075, Rotel RSP-1068, Klipsch RP-280F, RP-450C, RP-160M, SVS PB13 x 2, Monster Power Conditioner, GIK acoustic panels

TV Room: Panasonic 60" plasma, Integra DTR-30.3, Axiom Audio M60, VP150, QS8, EP500
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post #1773 of 1786 Old 07-20-2017, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ereed View Post
Only if you wanted more wattage. Is there a reason you need more than you have now? 200w per channel is PLENTY already!
Not only more wattage, as I think my CM10s would benefit from it, but better implementation. I keep reading that it is not just about power, but implementation as well. I read RB-1590 is in a different class in terms of design, and much superior to the Rb-1582. That's all.
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post #1774 of 1786 Old 07-20-2017, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanman View Post
^^ Maybe close to a power cord. Run the speakers and pre-cables at 90 degrees from the power cord. Or try XLR connection instead of RCA which may not really help unless you have long run to the pre/pro.


So Magnolia Best Buy came by the house and listened to the amp hiss. He said the hiss sound at the store is worse and the existence of the sound is very normal. Does anyone else experience a hiss when you have your ear to the tweeter and no audio is coming through the 1585?
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post #1775 of 1786 Old 07-26-2017, 10:02 PM
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Rotel Owner's Thread

Does anyone use the trigger out from their Rotel Amps? I have my marantz supplying 12v to the trigger input so the rmb1585 can power on, which works fine.

The rmb1585 trigger output is only giving me 8.7v which is not the 12v specified and not enough to to trigger my next device.

I've verified this with a multimeter and the same multimeter is showing 12v from the Marantz.

Does anyone else have this problem?

Thanks


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post #1776 of 1786 Old 07-27-2017, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
So Magnolia Best Buy came by the house and listened to the amp hiss. He said the hiss sound at the store is worse and the existence of the sound is very normal. Does anyone else experience a hiss when you have your ear to the tweeter and no audio is coming through the 1585?
I have the RMB-1555, little brother to the 1585, quiet as a church mouse. Zero hiss, no noise at all.
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post #1777 of 1786 Old 07-27-2017, 06:18 AM
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Hello,
Maybe someone can help. First, check my signature to see my system. I want to take advantage of the split audio/video setting into CXU to be able (in a near future) to send 4k signal to my soon to be new tv knowing that my RSX-1562 receiver can not passes it through (hdmi 1.4a input and output) So I connected hdmi 1 (video only) output of the CXU directly into the tv for video. Then I connected hdmi 2 output of the CXU (audio signal) to hdmi 1input video 1 into rotel. No hdmi cable connected from Rotel output to tv input (unless to see the Rotel menu on screen to do the settings) . Now I go to the Rotel input setup menu to do the settings for input 1:
First try:
listen: hdmi 1
video intput : hdmi 1
audio input: hdmi audio

Result: image, no sound

Second try:
listen: hdmi 1
video input: off
audio input: I can not choose hmi audio

same result.
Please note that I am in the same situation that one with a projector. How do you choose the settings for the hdmi in Rotel menu to get the sound through the receiver?

From Rotel owner manual:
AUDIO INPUT: assigns a physical input connection to use as the default
for the source displayed in the first line of the menu. Can be OPTICAL
1–4, COAXIAL 1–3, ANALOG or HDMI Audio.
Note: HDMI Audio input is assigned to a specific VIDEO input.
When a digital input is the default, the unit will check for a digital signal
when the INPUT SOURCE is selected. If no digital signal is present, the
unit will automatically revert to the analog input.
When an ANALOG input is the default, the unit will not access a digital
signal, even though one may be present at the digital input; thus, the
ANALOG setting forces the unit to use an analog signal. Assigning a
digital input (with its auto-sensing) is generally the preferred configuration
for any source with a digital output.

My system 5.1 :ROTEL RSX-1562 /Fronts: B & W 804 D2; surround : B&W 704 and center B&W HTM4d2 /sub SVS PC 2000 / TV Samsung UN55ES8000
/BD player Cambridge CXU/ set-top (cable box) rented from cable co. PEQ by nanoAvr-DL Dirac Live between CXU and receiver
Bis Audio cables and power bar from the wall to the receiver
My room:15'4" x 11' 6" x 7'6" tv near the center of the long side wall
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post #1778 of 1786 Old 07-28-2017, 08:21 PM
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Rotel Owner's Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
Does anyone use the trigger out from their Rotel Amps? I have my marantz supplying 12v to the trigger input so the rmb1585 can power on, which works fine.



The rmb1585 trigger output is only giving me 8.7v which is not the 12v specified and not enough to to trigger my next device.



I've verified this with a multimeter and the same multimeter is showing 12v from the Marantz.



Does anyone else have this problem?



Thanks





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Confirmed... Rotel has low output trigger voltage.



After emailing with Rotel (B&W) support, the trigger out on all of their 1585 models is only 8.7V. (200ma) Also, they said their amps will take a trigger voltage down to 2.5v to turn on, which is good. If I needed to trigger something else that with the amp trigger output, then they recommended http://www.powerswitchtail.com/ which is a trigger switched 15amp outlet that can accept down to 3v for under $30



So moral of the story, either Rotel's manuals are just wrong or their amps are all manufactured incorrectly...that being said their support department is responsive.
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post #1779 of 1786 Old 08-06-2017, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Butler View Post
Hi mdonda,

While there isn't a switch or button labelled "HT bypass", you can set an analog input to fixed gain in the RC-1590s menu. When watching movies, you would switch over to this input, and the master volume would then be set by whatever source or processor is attached to that input. Real simple.

Regards,

Patrick Butler
B&W Group North America
Since the volume level in bypass is adjustable for the fixed level: what volume level is unity gain? I would think it is 100 but that seems to boost the incoming level. I have the aux. input set to bypass for an Athem MRX 1120 L-R output.
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post #1780 of 1786 Old 08-08-2017, 02:29 PM
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Hi rickcfer,

I've found the need to either adjust the gain for the main channels in the home theater processor, or adjust the fixed level in your Rotel product. An spl meter is always necessary, and you might find that you need to set a level of 80-90 in the Rotel to match the gain structure in the rest of your channels.

Regards,

Patrick
B&W Group North America

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickcfer View Post
Since the volume level in bypass is adjustable for the fixed level: what volume level is unity gain? I would think it is 100 but that seems to boost the incoming level. I have the aux. input set to bypass for an Athem MRX 1120 L-R output.
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post #1781 of 1786 Old 08-08-2017, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Butler View Post
Hi rickcfer,

I've found the need to either adjust the gain for the main channels in the home theater processor, or adjust the fixed level in your Rotel product. An spl meter is always necessary, and you might find that you need to set a level of 80-90 in the Rotel to match the gain structure in the rest of your channels.

Regards,

Patrick
B&W Group North America
I should have given you more details of the system. I'm currently only doing a 2.1 system. I have the Anthem MRX 1120 running the 2 front channels through the Rotel RC 1590 Aux input set in bypass. I use the Anthem for HDMI connectivity and switching. No other channels to match gain with. I'm worried that I might clip the inputs of the Rotel RB 1590 at 100 dBs for the bypass volume. I'm using balanced cables to the amp which is driving B&W 805D3's. Since all of the outputs are active, I use both balanced outputs one set to the Rotel amp and the other to a SVS Ultra 13 sub ( with the sub doing the low pass crossover). So leave at 100 or what?
If 100 is Unity gain ,I have no worries. Some manufacturers set 80 or 90 as Unity gain and more is overdrive(PS Audio Stellar Gain Cell DAC comes to mind: 76dB is line level 100 is +12dB). Thank you for the prompt response.
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post #1782 of 1786 Old 08-08-2017, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
So Magnolia Best Buy came by the house and listened to the amp hiss. He said the hiss sound at the store is worse and the existence of the sound is very normal. Does anyone else experience a hiss when you have your ear to the tweeter and no audio is coming through the 1585?
i have the rmb 1585 it has a slight hiss or buzz but nothing to complain about i dont think i can hear it from a foot away, so all good.
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post #1783 of 1786 Old 08-08-2017, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadliner View Post
i have the rmb 1585 it has a slight hiss or buzz but nothing to complain about i dont think i can hear it from a foot away, so all good.


Thanks. I think mines about the same. I need to put my ear to the tweeter to really hear it.


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post #1784 of 1786 Old 08-08-2017, 07:16 PM
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Understood. Set the fixed gain on the RC-1590 to 76-78. At that point, you'll be able to adjust the volume using your MRX1120 and should not have any issues.

Regards,

Patrick
B&W Group North America

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickcfer View Post
I should have given you more details of the system. I'm currently only doing a 2.1 system. I have the Anthem MRX 1120 running the 2 front channels through the Rotel RC 1590 Aux input set in bypass. I use the Anthem for HDMI connectivity and switching. No other channels to match gain with. I'm worried that I might clip the inputs of the Rotel RB 1590 at 100 dBs for the bypass volume. I'm using balanced cables to the amp which is driving B&W 805D3's. Since all of the outputs are active, I use both balanced outputs one set to the Rotel amp and the other to a SVS Ultra 13 sub ( with the sub doing the low pass crossover). So leave at 100 or what?
If 100 is Unity gain ,I have no worries. Some manufacturers set 80 or 90 as Unity gain and more is overdrive(PS Audio Stellar Gain Cell DAC comes to mind: 76dB is line level 100 is +12dB). Thank you for the prompt response.
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post #1785 of 1786 Old 08-09-2017, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadliner View Post
i have the rmb 1585 it has a slight hiss or buzz but nothing to complain about i dont think i can hear it from a foot away, so all good.
I have had the RMB 1585 for over 10 years and I do not hear any of those sounds. Best guess could be a speaker or a power line issue, as the next poster suggested it there is a slight his on his tweeter when he gets closer.
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post #1786 of 1786 Old 08-11-2017, 08:58 AM
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Rsp-1582

Just listed an RSP-1582 and MiniDSP DDRC-88A in the classifieds. Will sell separately as well. I really like the Rotel but want to go with a Preprocessor that has integrated room correction.

Nick
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