"Official" Audyssey thread (FAQ in post #51779) - Page 1774 - AVS Forum
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post #53191 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by allan0210 View Post

Hi what is the best method to get the mic set up for readings when i do my full 8 point setup i use a tripod what do you think is best please.

Thanks

There's a whole section of the FAQ devoted to this:

D. Mic & Mic Placement Issues (click here)

Read all 8 paragraphs. If you have any questions arising from the FAQ, please come back here with them.
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post #53192 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

I found that to, the mains are always sweet, but the center seems to differ abit from setup to setup. the center can sound hollow after one setup, and soild the next time, with little change in mic placement. The only sure way is to place the mic much closer to the center speaker. I have the mic screwed to a 2.5 LB soild metal weight plate.

With the same center (note that I tried about 3 different centers before giving up and just getting a matching center), my results are as consistent as with the mains. There may be something odd with your setup.

In addition, as mentioned, it isn't the weight of what the mic is attached to that matters, but its isolation from any conducted vibrations. Also consider that Chris has warned that some tripods with larger bases can potentially interfere with the measurement mic. By larger, he meant some camera tripods with a 4"x4" base. Most 2.5 lb plates I've seen are at least that big in diameter.


Max
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post #53193 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

With the same center (note that I tried about 3 different centers before giving up and just getting a matching center), my results are as consistent as with the mains. There may be something odd with your setup.

In addition, as mentioned, it isn't the weight of what the mic is attached to that matters, but its isolation from any conducted vibrations. Also consider that Chris has warned that some tripods with larger bases can potentially interfere with the measurement mic. By larger, he meant some camera tripods with a 4"x4" base. Most 2.5 lb plates I've seen are at least that big in diameter.


Max

I've used a camera tripod and mic, weight on soft pillow. I tried different centers, all the centers at times sounded hollow with Audyssey, and soild with Audyssey off. My speaker are not matched in any way, brand, age and type. With some tricks it does sound acceptable. Why would Audyssey make the center sound hollow, when the speaker is not a hollow sounding speaker ?
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post #53194 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

There's a whole section of the FAQ devoted to this:

D. Mic & Mic Placement Issues (click here)

Read all 8 paragraphs. If you have any questions arising from the FAQ, please come back here with them.


It looks as if the tripod while not the number one option is decent for me as i don't have a suspended floor and my tripod has a top extension that will go horizontal and the mic screws direct and is pointed at the ceiling. I have been happy with the results so i guess i won't fix what does not seem broken.

Many thanks
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post #53195 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by allan0210 View Post

It looks as if the tripod while not the number one option is decent for me as i don't have a suspended floor and my tripod has a top extension that will go horizontal and the mic screws direct and is pointed at the ceiling. I have been happy with the results so i guess i won't fix what does not seem broken.

Many thanks

A suitable tripod can give good results. The boom mic stand makes it easier (as well as some other potential benefits). It sounds as if you are good to go.
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post #53196 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

I've used a camera tripod and mic, weight on soft pillow. I tried different centers, all the centers at times sounded hollow with Audyssey, and soild with Audyssey off. My speaker are not matched in any way, brand, age and type. With some tricks it does sound acceptable. Why would Audyssey make the center sound hollow, when the speaker is not a hollow sounding speaker ?

Did you ever post pics of your room and setup? I tried looking through a few pages of your posts but didn't see them. That's a decent place to start when trying to narrow down potential sources of problems.


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post #53197 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 03:34 PM
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BTW, on the subject of panning you'll note that Chris K. would make a decent politician as his reply was very nicely oblique and did not actually answer the question about panning. He talks about presence and the ambience and spacial cues with wide speakers, then goes on to talk about an experiment with panning using specifically recorded material with added speakers. He doesn't explicitly specify that the added speakers WILL result in smoother panning with regularly mixed material.

Max, no offense intended, but I'd like to leave your comments uncommented. Sorry!

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On an interesting sidenote, one of Chesky Records' demo discs has a stereo spacial cue demo that I found amusing. It shows how effectively properly set up stereo speakers can reproduce imaging. It has a person with a small drum walking around the mics. There is a point where the commentator tells the drummer to go wide right and wide left and my jaw dropped when the sounds appeared to come from beyond the boundary of the speakers. Keep in mind, this is a stereo recording.

No offense again, but do you like Audyssey? Do you like what it does for your ears or not? If yes, then why not join the bandwagon of Audysssey fans on this thread. If not, there is the excellent setup guide and the excellent FAQ to which you can refer to any time. Should your questions remain unanswered via the above mentioned two information sources you may feel free to ask the board here. And as a last resort there is always a channel to Chris Kyriakakis who will be glad to answer your queries just like he answers mine, and he does it within the same day, sometimes within hours or even minutes.

Cognitive dissonance can be something we all may experience from time to time in this modern world around us, but effectively handling it can make a giant leap for the individual to make it work for every day life.

Take care!
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post #53198 of 72237 Old 04-25-2012, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mogorf View Post

Max, no offense intended, but I'd like to leave your comments uncommented. Sorry!

No problem. I was a little busy at the time and forgot to finish the rest of my comment. It was specifically regarding this post.
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Originally Posted by mogorf View Post

Hi Guys, here's a short discussion for those interested in the subject with Chris on FB about seamless panning between fronts and surrounds with some insights on experiments done at their university labs.

Me: Hi Chris, coming back to the issue of front-surround panning you have mentioned earlier that it is simply not possible to be done seamlessly in a 5.1 array, thus development at Audyssey has lead to DSX, especially the wides with proper placement to over come this psychoacoustical phenomenon. Care to share a bit more thoughts on what we miss in a 5.1 system and how DSX wides overcome the problem? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Feri

    • Chris Kyriakakis Our sense of auditory source width is greatly enhanced by reflections from the sides. For these to be most effective they need to arrive from a specific angle and with a specific delay relative to the direct sound from the front. They also need to have a particular frequency response shaping in order to match our hearing preferences. Experiments in the literature have shown these effects quite clearly and we have also performed our own at my university lab for several years.

      The information must be delivered from a discrete direction that is separate from the fronts or surrounds to be effective. So, the Wides play a key role in soundstage rendering.


      If we ever got to the point where content was being authored for more channels then the Wides would also play a key role in filling the front-surround gap. We made an experimental recording of a Shakespeare play happening "in the round" around the audience. When the actor's voice appears in the right surround (there is no picture--this is all presented in the dark), and then he starts slowly walking towards the voices he hears in the front left, the result is chilling. He is in the room with you and you can swear that somebody just walked by you. When we then switch to 5.1 the illusion is gone completely.

It appeared as if you posted that as some sort of confirmation from Chris that 5.1 is not enough for seamless panning and the addition of Wide speakers would help. What I meant to say was that Chris's response doesn't specifically address the issue except obliquely.

He talks about the Wides being important for soundstage width cues and then goes on to say that IF (or when) film audio is eventually mixed for more channels (which seems to be in the works now with Dolby Atmos in some sense), that the Wide channels can then aid in smoother panning. Those are two separate things, but if read too quickly, might be incorrectly construed as, "DSX Wides will make surround panning smoother".


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Originally Posted by mogorf View Post

No offense again, but do you like Audyssey? Do you like what it does for your ears or not? If yes, then why not join the bandwagon of Audysssey fans on this thread. ...snip...
Take care!

Definitely. I've stated before that I won't buy another avr without Audyssey (or some form of room correction that is proven to be at least equally powerful/effective).

But there is a world of a difference between appreciating it for what it can do, vs. blithely joining in the enthusiasm about it and thinking that it's perfect. Do I think Audyssey is an effective technology? Yes, without a doubt. But is it magic? Can it work miracles? No.

Markus has a nice little quote as his signature that goes:
"In science, contrary evidence causes one to question a theory. In religion, contrary evidence causes one to question the evidence." - Floyd Toole

Sometimes I get the impression that the most enthusiastic audio fans almost have a religious fervor with respect to whatever it is they're enthusiastic about, refusing to question their items/technologies/brands of preference and unwilling to even consider the possibility that it might not be 'perfect'. Down that path lie the $5000 power cables and $135,000 speaker cables.

I really hope that this post is not taken as offensive. It is just meant to explain my take on things. I try to temper my enthusiasm a little to keep it in check. Given my propensity and OCD for improvement and the continual quest for perfection, if I didn't question things and/or the lack of proof or especially, potentially contrary evidence, I might end up following the hype and buying things like this:
http://www.lessloss.com/blackbody-p-...2gqks08np4cr71



Max
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post #53199 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 11:32 AM
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Hi all,

I have a query regarding an observation regarding the auto-setup that my Denon 3312 is achieving with Audyssey (this is a 7.2 setup).

The auto-setup is performed according to the many instructions given here (and it's my third Denon AVR with Audyssey - so I'm not a newbie with it).

The issue I have is that after the auto-setup the bass 'sounds' to be lacking, however I can 'feel' it, so I know it's actually there. If I then switch the phase on both subs over to 180 degrees (they're either 0 or 180) the 'sound' returns. As I understood it though this shouldn't be happening as Audyssey should have taken distances, etc in account and this phase discrepancy shouldn't be there...so what am I missing/getting wrong ?

I've tried running the setup again (with phase at 0) and the end result stays the same - the subs phase need changing over to 180 before the bass appears to be correct. Should I re-run with the subs at 180 to see whether I then have to change them to 0 - you would assume this would be the case ?

Just for info :-
After a full auto-setup the speakers are all set to large (even the centre which definately isn't) and the bass at this point is fine. It's after I set the speakers to small and the crossovers to 80 (100 for centre) - as per almost everybody's recommendation - that the bass just vanishes & yes, the sub option is set to LFE+Main.

Many thanks,
Ian
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post #53200 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ianfretwell View Post

Hi all,

I have a query regarding an observation regarding the auto-setup that my Denon 3312 is achieving with Audyssey (this is a 7.2 setup).

The auto-setup is performed according to the many instructions given here (and it's my third Denon AVR with Audyssey - so I'm not a newbie with it).

The issue I have is that after the auto-setup the bass 'sounds' to be lacking, however I can 'feel' it, so I know it's actually there. If I then switch the phase on both subs over to 180 degrees (they're either 0 or 180) the 'sound' returns. As I understood it though this shouldn't be happening as Audyssey should have taken distances, etc in account and this phase discrepancy shouldn't be there...so what am I missing/getting wrong ?

I've tried running the setup again (with phase at 0) and the end result stays the same - the subs phase need changing over to 180 before the bass appears to be correct. Should I re-run with the subs at 180 to see whether I then have to change them to 0 - you would assume this would be the case ?

Just for info :-
After a full auto-setup the speakers are all set to large (even the centre which definately isn't) and the bass at this point is fine. It's after I set the speakers to small and the crossovers to 80 (100 for centre) - as per almost everybody's recommendation - that the bass just vanishes & yes, the sub option is set to LFE+Main.

Many thanks,
Ian

Interesting. Can you give a bit more info? What subs are you using, and what speakers.

And you have to reverse phase on *both* subs to get the full effect you are after?

I am not familiar with Denon units, but what is this "the sub option is set to LFE+Main"? Do you mean that your bass is being redirected to the subs and also to the main speakers? If so, that is bad practice. What happens if you use full and usual bass management, with all the bass content that would normally be directed to the R & L main speakers directed instead to the subs? You really don't want that bass in the mains AND the subs for various reasons (we can go into them later if necessary).

Ideally you want all the bass below 80Hz just going to your subs. Please confirm if I have got the wrong end of the stick - as I say I am not familiar with Denons.

If I am right in my assumption, please set it the way I describe and conduct a new listening test and report back.

One final point - do you have access to any independent measuring equipment such as OmniMic, REW or XTZ?
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post #53201 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ianfretwell View Post

Just for info :-
After a full auto-setup the speakers are all set to large (even the centre which definately isn't) and the bass at this point is fine. It's after I set the speakers to small and the crossovers to 80 (100 for centre) - as per almost everybody's recommendation - that the bass just vanishes & yes, the sub option is set to LFE+Main.

Many thanks,
Ian

LFE + Main is the wrong setting when setting your speakers to small(at least in your situation). What you're likely experiencing is phase cancellation between your mains and sub. Change the subwoofer option to LFE.

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post #53202 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post

LFE + Main is the wrong setting when setting your speakers to small(at least in your situation). What you're likely experiencing is phase cancellation between your mains and sub. Change the subwoofer option to LFE.

Exactly what I was thinking. Thanks for confirming the Denon-ness.
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post #53203 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ianfretwell View Post

...the bass just vanishes & yes, the sub option is set to LFE+Main. Many thanks,Ian

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

...I am not familiar with Denon units, but what is this "the sub option is set to LFE+Main"? Do you mean that your bass is being redirected to the subs and also to the main speakers?...

In Denons, LFE+ Main should have no effect at all when speakers are set to small. When speakers are set to Large it produces "double bass", as the freqs below the "xover" (which is no longer actually doing low-pass) are sent to both sub and satellite. This usually causes xs bass.

The LFE+ Main setting is an anachronism and should really be eliminated. There have been rare (and IMO as yet unsubstantiated) reports of a "bug" irt to phase so Gooddoc's simple suggestion is well worth a try. Ian, pls report back.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #53204 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:39 PM
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Hi,

Thanks for the two quick responses!

I've just tried changing the sub option to just LFE - this has no effect and the bass is still better when the subs are placed on 180 degree phase setting.

The two options are described by the onscreen GUI as follows :-

LFE - Play low range & LFE signals of channels set to "Small".

LFE+Main - Play low range & LFE signals of all channels.

So in my case (after setting speakers to small as per almost every recommendation on this site) changing between these two options would have no effect anyway - were you assuming I'd set the speakers back to "Large" ?


To answer kbarnes' query more directly the speakers are :-

Gale 3040's for the fronts and surrounds
Gale 3030's for the rears
Gale 3050 centre
Gale 3090's for the subs

I've attached a (poor) photo showing the front layout of the room - as you can see everything is 'nice and even' in terms of distance from the listening position. And unfortunately I don't have access to any special measuring equipment.

Thanks again,
Ian
LL
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post #53205 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post


In Denons, LFE+ Main should have no effect at all when speakers are set to small. When speakers are set to Large it produces "double bass", as the freqs below the "xover" (which is no longer actually doing low-pass) are sent to both sub and satellite. This usually causes xs bass.

The LFE+ Main setting is an anachronism and should really be eliminated. There have been rare (and IMO as yet unsubstantiated) reports of a "bug" irt to phase so Gooddoc's simple suggestion is well worth a try. Ian, pls report back.

I'm a Denon owner but I really only know settings I've used. Had to look in the manual for that one and it looked like small and LFE + Main was possible but really doesn't make sense that the combination should be possible when I think about it

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post #53206 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ianfretwell View Post

Hi,

Thanks for the two quick responses!

I've just tried changing the sub option to just LFE - this has no effect and the bass is still better when the subs are placed on 180 degree phase setting.

The two options are described by the onscreen GUI as follows :-

LFE - Play low range & LFE signals of channels set to "Small".

LFE+Main - Play low range & LFE signals of all channels.

So in my case (after setting speakers to small as per almost every recommendation on this site) changing between these two options would have no effect anyway - were you assuming I'd set the speakers back to "Large" ?

To answer kbarnes' query more directly the speakers are :-

Gale 3040's for the fronts and surrounds
Gale 3030's for the rears
Gale 3050 centre
Gale 3090's for the subs

I've attached a (poor) photo showing the front layout of the room - as you can see everything is 'nice and even' in terms of distance from the listening position. And unfortunately I don't have access to any special measuring equipment.

Thanks again,
Ian

Even with the proper bass management its still possible there is phase cancellation with the mains at the crossover. If 180 deg. works then I would just roll with it

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post #53207 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post

Even with the proper bass management its still possible there is phase cancellation with the mains at the crossover. If 180 deg. works then I would just roll with it

But wouldn't we prefer that 180 to be set in polarity and not phase?
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post #53208 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 02:52 PM
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But wouldn't we prefer that 180 to be set in polarity and not phase?

Good question. As I'm sure you know, since you asked the question, polarity is a simple electrical inversion whereas phase has a component of delay which results in a frequency dependent effect.

I don't know for sure but I was assuming he had a polarity switch on his subs. If the cancellation was due to sub-sub interaction I would vote for a polarity switch. If its a mains-sub cancellation I would vote for a phase switch. Make sense?

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post #53209 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post

Good question. As I'm sure you know, since you asked the question, that a polarity is a simple electrical inversion whereas phase has a component of delay which results in a frequency dependent effect.

I don't know for sure but I was assuming he had a polarity switch on his subs. If the cancellation was due to sub-sub interaction I would vote for a polarity switch. If its a mains-sub cancellation I would vote for a phase switch. Make sense?

I would also ask Ian to give the Audyssey measured distances for the subs vs. physical distance to see how auto-setup worked. Would also ask Ian whether the two subs were level matched with the Denon 3312 prior to running Audyssey or not. And then, would ask if the subs have a "wakeup" function and would suggest to disable them on each sub. Finally I would be curious to know that the subs' LPF was set to highest position or not and whether the subs have an input that bypasses phase and LPF or not?

And then would start troubleshooting.

Ian?
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post #53210 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post

I'm a Denon owner but I really only know settings I've used. Had to look in the manual for that one and it looked like small and LFE + Main was possible but really doesn't make sense that the combination should be possible when I think about it

The night I brought my first Denon home, a demo clearance AVR988 from Best Buy, after 3 hours of hooking up cables and reading the OM (written in "Denonese"), I still couldn't get the damn thing to play music! Fortunately that drove me to start reading this site and not only did I get it to play, I learned how to optimize the SQ. These machines are infernally complex, though I'm pretty sure that holds for most brands and models of modern processors, not just Denon.

Sometimes on these more esoteric topics I still have to consult my OM and/or the batpig Guide. From the Guide:

"...if you have a subwoofer, enter the BASS SETTING menu (which in older models is called SUBWOOFER SETUP). The LFE vs. LFE+MAIN setting is only relevant if you have set any speakers to "large". If all of your speakers are set to "small", this setting doesn't do anything. For speakers set to "large", think of this as the "double bass" setting. For more info on the LFE vs LFE+MAIN setting, click here to read a good explanation (ed: which was apparently found originally on this thread).

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #53211 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post

Good question. As I'm sure you know, since you asked the question, polarity is a simple electrical inversion whereas phase has a component of delay which results in a frequency dependent effect.

I don't know for sure but I was assuming he had a polarity switch on his subs. If the cancellation was due to sub-sub interaction I would vote for a polarity switch. If its a mains-sub cancellation I would vote for a phase switch. Make sense?

No, not completely, at least not without a better understanding of the problem being addressed. Introducing group delay sub within the sub's range occurs with the phase control. With the POLARITY control it doesn't. (I tips me hat )

I think, though, I would have liked to see the "offending" sub's distance tweaked to address the dip. Or was it and I have forgotten?

Jeff
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post #53212 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 03:19 PM
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Introducing group delay sub within the sub's range occurs with the phase control. With the phase control it doesn't.

Jeff

Me thinks an edit is due for those two sentences!
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post #53213 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pepar View Post

No, not completely, at least not without a better understanding of the problem being addressed. Introducing group delay sub within the sub's range occurs with the phase control. With the POLARITY control it doesn't. (I tips me hat )

I think, though, I would have liked to see the "offending" sub's distance tweaked to address the dip. Or was it and I have forgotten?

Jeff

My point was that if it were the subs that had a polarity reversal causing the cancellation then a simple electrical polarity reversal is all that's needed.

If the cancellation is occurring at the crossover between the mains and the sub then either a variable phase control or, better yet(maybe?), adjusting sub distances to more closely align with the inherent group delays incurred in the subs/mains crossover is a better choice. Does THAT better explain it?

Adjusting sub distances causes a variable frequency dependent phase shift whereas the variable phase control adjusts the angular velocity resulting in the same phase shift regardless of frequency. Mark Seaton prefers the former. I like him and don't know any better myself so I vote for distance adjustment.

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My point was that if it were the subs that had a polarity reversal causing the cancellation then a simple electrical polarity reversal is all that's needed.

While IMHO, a simple cable end swap at a speaker (satellite) side is child's play, the same on a powered sub is not possible without dismantling the box in order to have access to the driver's terminals. Also that's why the so-called "battery test" can not be done on a powered sub. We can't just simply connect a battery to the RCA socket. Right?
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post #53216 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 04:16 PM
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...some interesting responses here!!

To answers mogorf's questions though :-

The Audyssey measurements are as follows -
FL 3.81m
FR 3.81m
C 3.60m

Sub 4.05m (yes, single measurement, the amp 'only' has an internal Y to feed it's two outputs)

SL 2.19m
SR 1.26m
SBL 1.59m
SBR 1.17m

All the measurements are 'real world' accurate except for the sub one.

The two subs are level matched and the LPF was/is set to the highest value (150Hz).

The subs are both on 'auto' wakeup - I'm curious why you suggest to change this ?

The subs also have speaker level inputs but I've never used these and I'm not sure whether or not they bypass the phase & LPF elements.

I've also just tried each sub individually to make sure that the bass improvement occurs for both of them at 180 degrees phase and not just the one - and it's definately better that way for both.

Thanks...
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...whilst I appreciate the comments regarding changing the polarity of the speaker terminals etc., my original question was kinda why the audyssey setup isn't managing to compensate for this correctly in the first place - this is after all part of it's purpose?
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...some interesting responses here!!

To answers mogorf's questions though :-

The Audyssey measurements are as follows -
FL 3.81m
FR 3.81m
C 3.60m

Sub 4.05m (yes, single measurement, the amp 'only' has an internal Y to feed it's two outputs)

SL 2.19m
SR 1.26m
SBL 1.59m
SBR 1.17m

All the measurements are 'real world' accurate except for the sub one.

Sub distance longer than physical is always due to delay caused by internal circuitry inside the sub. Best to leave it "as is".

Quote:


The subs are both on 'auto' wakeup - I'm curious why you suggest to change this?

Because IMHO that is a silly option. Why do we need the sub to wake up above a certain level which may also cause delay during the wake up transition accounting to the additional circuitry involved taking care of that useless function.

Quote:


The subs also have speaker level inputs but I've never used these and I'm not sure whether or not they bypass the phase & LPF elements.

They are power inputs, but with an AVR like the 3312 you don't have subwoofer power outputs, so best is to forget them.

Quote:


I've also just tried each sub individually to make sure that the bass improvement occurs for both of them at 180 degrees phase and not just the one - and it's definately better that way for both.

Thanks...

With all the above discussions we still didn't get close to resolving your problems, yet, I belive turning off the wake up function may have an effect here. Let's see. If not, please come back for round 2.
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post #53219 of 72237 Old 04-26-2012, 05:44 PM
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While IMHO, a simple cable end swap at a speaker (satellite) side is child's play, the same on a powered sub is not possible without dismantling the box in order to have access to the driver's terminals. Also that's why the so-called "battery test" can not be done on a powered sub. We can't just simply connect a battery to the RCA socket. Right?


I was thinking of a polarity switch, not a cable swap

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...whilst I appreciate the comments regarding changing the polarity of the speaker terminals etc., my original question was kinda why the audyssey setup isn't managing to compensate for this correctly in the first place - this is after all part of it's purpose?

Audyssey cannot change polarity or phase. It will sometimes detect a phase problem and put up a warning, but that's as far as it goes.

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