The "Official" Yamaha RX-V1800/RX-V3800 Thread - Page 292 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8731 of 8757 Old 01-30-2015, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
^ You only have 7 amps in total. e.g. 7.1 in the main zone, or 5.1 + zone 2. There are no extra amps for zone 2.

At any given volume level you are not "running extra power" to the speakers by bi-amping. And since the AVR is simply doing passive bi-amping (sending the full signal to both sets of inputs on the speakers) it's hard to see how it could make a "noticable" difference. You would have to do a blind test with careful volume matching (using an SPL meter) before concluding you can really hear a difference.
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post #8732 of 8757 Old 02-10-2015, 08:18 AM
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Weak sound even at high volume (0db)

My Rx-v1800 is sounding weak, I didn't touch anything, it was calibrated at 75db with the volume at 0db and what I'm getting is around 62db @ 0db volume. Try got do the room correction but when it get to the left channel it make a really loud sound (like a feedback sound). Reset everything, change outlet and still weak sound.
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post #8733 of 8757 Old 02-12-2015, 12:51 AM
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Tried isolating the left channel? Swap speakers? Swap speaker wire?
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post #8734 of 8757 Old 02-15-2015, 06:22 AM
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kriktsemaj99, I have an unexpected problem: I moved the serial stuff from where it was (at a separate computer with a regular serial port) to where it is supposed to be (a VM that connects to an USB to serial over USB over TCPIP), but it just doesn't work. It's a Prolific PL2303H, and it shows up as working in Device Manager. I have also tried to connect the USB to serial device directly to the host computer and testing the receiver manager there (so not on the VM), but that doesn't work either. Is there a limitied number of USB to serial devices that work with Yamaha? I'm using the same cable that works perfectly with the physical comport on the extra computer (which I really don't have room to keep there just for this one function), so I know it's not the cable.

Edit: Connecting to the receiver with Hyperterminal seems to work in as much as it says "Connected", but trying to send the string 11 30 30 30 03 (READY, I think...) doesn't give me an answer. Nor does any other string I can send, there's just nothing happening. Or maybe it's not working even that much. Seems like connecting to any serial port without anything on it will give the same result.

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post #8735 of 8757 Old 02-15-2015, 08:06 AM
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Quick question, I have noticed when watching on my system the trueHD is considerably quieter then Master HD. I have Yamaha rx v1800, but I wouldn't think that would make a difference. Anyone else get the same thing?
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post #8736 of 8757 Old 02-16-2015, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiff View Post
kriktsemaj99, I have an unexpected problem: I moved the serial stuff from where it was (at a separate computer with a regular serial port) to where it is supposed to be (a VM that connects to an USB to serial over USB over TCPIP), but it just doesn't work. It's a Prolific PL2303H, and it shows up as working in Device Manager. I have also tried to connect the USB to serial device directly to the host computer and testing the receiver manager there (so not on the VM), but that doesn't work either. Is there a limitied number of USB to serial devices that work with Yamaha? I'm using the same cable that works perfectly with the physical comport on the extra computer (which I really don't have room to keep there just for this one function), so I know it's not the cable.

Edit: Connecting to the receiver with Hyperterminal seems to work in as much as it says "Connected", but trying to send the string 11 30 30 30 03 (READY, I think...) doesn't give me an answer. Nor does any other string I can send, there's just nothing happening. Or maybe it's not working even that much. Seems like connecting to any serial port without anything on it will give the same result.

I've controlled my 1800 from a computer with a real serial port, and also through a USB to serial converter. But that doesn't necessarily mean all USB to serial converters will work.

Make sure the baud rate is correct (9600) and also that hardware flow control (RTS/CTS) is enabled and supported by the USB to serial converter.
Also, you cannot simply type commands in Hyperterminal for the 1800 because some of the characters are not printing characters. e.g. the Ready command starts with a single byte with Ascii code 0x11, you can't just type the two characters 11 in Hyperterminal.

The best way to do manual tests is to put the correct command in a file with a binary editor, then copy the file to the correct COM port (or use "Send File" in Hyperterminal). The Ready command should be exactly 5 bytes in total, so make sure your file is this size.

Last edited by kriktsemaj99; 02-16-2015 at 06:30 AM.
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post #8737 of 8757 Old 02-16-2015, 06:47 AM
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Thanks! And damn, thought I had it there. I had the flow control to off, but going to hardware didn't help, and I know the adapter supports it. And besides the "physical" onboard com port on the computer that works with the Yamaha is doing that without any flow control. So I guess I'll have to try another serial adapter and check if that works. I have ordered one from eBay, I may be lucky. I have a routine in Girder that works on the other computer as well, but here it fails. So I guess I'll have to see if another one works.

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post #8738 of 8757 Old 02-16-2015, 07:25 AM
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^ Are you sure you're sending the correct string? For example how exactly were you trying to send the Ready command from Hyperterminal (typing it from the keyboard, sending from a file, etc.)?
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post #8739 of 8757 Old 02-16-2015, 07:31 AM
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Oh, I'm not talking about hyperterminal now, I figureed that if Yamaha's own software couldn't even connect it would't work. So I'm using the Reciever Manager for this, and Girder. Both work perfectly with the same cable and a real searial port on that other computer, but not at all with the USB adapter.

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post #8740 of 8757 Old 02-17-2015, 08:02 PM
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Yamaha HTR 6190 (RXV 1800) SPL issue I posted in the general forum but probably should have done it here first.


I have a sound level issue that I recently noticed, and I thought that maybe one of you would have an idea about what the problem is and maybe how to fix it.


When playing music at higher listening levels around -10, my Yamaha HTR 6190 will drop the sound level 3-5 dB after about 3 seconds or so. It's a thing that I have never noticed before, and I wonder if any of you has heard anything about it. I have searched this forum and my user manual but can find no fix for it.


I have my max volume set at 0dB, and played with that a bit, but it made no difference what it was set at, it still dropped 3dB or so as measured by an app on my iPhone 5s. It is definitely noticeable while listening.


Any ideas?

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post #8741 of 8757 Old 02-19-2015, 08:50 AM
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Well, I tested a few USB to serial devices, and the winner is...this!



The cheapest cr@p found on the net! It's based on a CH-340 chip, and it works perfectly! Of course the drivers that came with it didn't work with Windows 7 64 bits, so I had to hunt a little bit. But I found the correct driver that's digitally signed and working. Unfortunately it's too big to attach here, but I am going to save it so if somebody need it they can PM me. Just in case they under somewhat bizzare circumstances should need to control their Yamaha through an USB to serial setup!

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post #8742 of 8757 Old 02-19-2015, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiff View Post
Well, I tested a few USB to serial devices, and the winner is...

Strange that they don't all work with the Yamaha, but glad you found one that does.

I'm still using my 6190, network controlled via a network to serial converter. I suppose that could be an alternative solution for you... send commands over TCP/IP to a small box that has the serial connection to the receiver. Feedback is returned over the network too.
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post #8743 of 8757 Old 03-01-2015, 04:35 AM
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Yeah, it's an option, but since I have these TP-Link USB/printer servers in the right place it's just as well to use those. I have ordered four of those things so I can do serial control of a few other things, nice to have!

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post #8744 of 8757 Old 03-11-2015, 02:06 PM
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In a rare case of caution I figured I should ask instead of maybe blowing something: Can I connect my Xantech IR distrtibution block directly with a mini jack cable to the Yamaha? I'm having a very weird problem where it doesn't take Ir from the emitters reliably. I have everything AV except for TV's and speakers in the attick, and I've never had this problem with anything efore. I have a Yamaha 3076 at my cabin, and that never has any problems like this. So instead of going via the pc and using the RS-232 for this I'd like to connect directly.

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post #8745 of 8757 Old 03-11-2015, 03:49 PM
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I've connected a Xantech 789-44 distribution block in unpowered mode (where I was just using it as an unpowered splitter for an IR signal). But if the Xantech is powered I think it's sending 12V which the Yamaha may not like. The Yamaha input is mono (tip = IR signal, sleeve = ground) but the Xantech is stereo (tip = IR signal, ring = Ground, sleeve = 12V if the Xantech is powered).

I assume you've checked that the emitter is right over the IR receiver on the 1800?
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post #8746 of 8757 Old 03-12-2015, 01:22 AM
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Aha! Yeah, it's a powered Xantech. So if I plug in a stereo cable in the Xantech, only use tip and ring, and solder that to a mono plug for the Yamaha it should work? Thanks! And the problem is that it works at times, but it works best if I hold the emitter around a foot from the front panel of the Yamaha. Almost like it's getting an overload over signal. And it's not all remote signals either. But I am using a Marantz RC-2000 remote for it, and the original remote works better. I have tried learning the code for volume up and down around 20 times on different distances, but it's sketchy at best. And my wife won't settle for sketchy... Also using another remote isn't any better, both my wife and daughter are used to this remote (which has seen several different receivers and TV's), and almost anything is easier than trying to learn them something new!

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post #8747 of 8757 Old 03-12-2015, 03:21 AM
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Been using my powered Xantech into back of 2700 for years. Works flawlessly.
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post #8748 of 8757 Old 03-12-2015, 03:22 AM
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Brilliant, thanks! Stereo or mono cable?

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post #8749 of 8757 Old 03-12-2015, 03:40 AM
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Been so long, don't remember. I'd guess stereo.
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post #8750 of 8757 Old 03-12-2015, 03:47 AM
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OK, thanks again! I'll make an attempt, then.

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post #8751 of 8757 Old 03-12-2015, 06:17 AM
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Been using my powered Xantech into back of 2700 for years. Works flawlessly.

Good to know, but can you check if it's a mono or stereo cable?
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post #8752 of 8757 Old 03-12-2015, 09:51 AM
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Good to know, but can you check if it's a mono or stereo cable?
Yes, but it won't be any time soon. I travel for biz and the entire AV rack is not easily accessible.
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post #8753 of 8757 Old 04-13-2015, 10:13 AM
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Yes, but it won't be any time soon. I travel for biz and the entire AV rack is not easily accessible.
Hi! Any closer to checking that cable?

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post #8754 of 8757 Old 04-13-2015, 10:31 AM
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I'll need to run another HDMI cable into the back of my AV rack. Guessing next couple weeks.
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post #8755 of 8757 Old 04-13-2015, 10:53 AM
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Well, I guess if I've waited this long... Just rember to check it when you're back there!

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post #8756 of 8757 Old Today, 06:01 AM
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Well, I guess if I've waited this long... Just rember to check it when you're back there!
Mine are stereo on both ends, AVR and Xantech. I did not get behind the rack yet (quite inaccessible) but I just ran across the Xantech instructions and my MonoPrice receipt (stapled to instructions) and all I ordered from MonoPrice was stereo 3.5 mm mini-plugs.
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post #8757 of 8757 Old Today, 06:04 AM
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Thank you! Good research! Then I'll take the chance to use a regular stereo cable.

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